If you have to take the motor assembly apart, the screws at 2:16 are T10, NOT hex as specified in this video. I got documentation from Dremel and it says T10 in that and it worked.
At 1:35, the right screw is hard to find-it's set further back. You have to fish around for it. At 2:07, there are two screws right next to eachother. I accidentally removed the right screw and spent the next half hour trying to get it back in after it dropped into the mechanism. Make sure you loosen the one on the left.
It's a bit crappy that this never got updated with a more clear video. And now that Dremel's apparently discontinued 3D printing altogether, it won't ever happen. As someone else mentioned, there are several cases of adjacent screws going on here. Closeup stills would have eliminated that confusion. Even after navigating the potential pitfalls of that and getting to the loosening of the extruder block and figuring out the correct screws, there seems to be something other than the two mentioned screws involved because I can't get the right-hand side loose on my mid-2021 purchased unit. It is quite mobile, but definitely still connected to something. I'll have a sleep on it and have another go tomorrow, I guess.
What an easy and informative walkthrough! Thank you for making several, easy to follow solutions! This was my first clog, and it took me the entire day trying to unclog, now with this video, it took me less than two minutes. Thank you!
A few comments to touch on regarding my unclogging: My 3D45 was 2 months old when my first clog happened. There should be a step 3.5, where i removed the 3 screws from the housing - but then used my plyers while holding down the lever and this time it removed the jam! PS on step 4, it was a 2mm hex bit on my 3D45 printer for any of those with a newer purchased unit.
They seem to just have used whatever was at hand. I used the same T10 on all of them. Granted, since only the top two actually came out, I can't tell for sure if that's correct or just happened to work fine with whatever head the other screws happened to have. My printer is a year old and never really clogged, but after I printed some PETG it has started to act up a bit. It now seems to need a lot of warmup before it will print reliably. Usually, the first attempt fails pretty hard on the first layer (really wobbly lines, or sometimes it intermittently stops extruding), but I leave it running for a few minutes, abort and clear the plate and restart and it's fine for even multi hour prints. I figured I'd have a look in there just in case there's some thiny stuck piece of PETG or something that's causing issues until it gets hot enough to be more pliable (I'm stuck on getting the thing loose though, so not quite there yet).
Thankfully I got to option 3 but hit it with an air blast before removing the stepper motor and that seemed to clear things. Printer would print a thin layer and then stop extruding. Happened on the third spool since unboxing.
Yes. 17 hour print that was flawless up to the last hour. They need to upgrade the simple detector switch with one that knows when the filament isn't moving. Or some ability to lower the Z axis down using the level switch so the machine can reprint where it left off.
STOP! Do not proceed to option 3. Option 3 risks breaking your machine - removing any connection from an electronics board is risky. BEFORE going to option 3 remove the heating nozzle (make sure it is cold first). 10mm socket. This should be the 3rd option. The option in the video is a last chance.
@James Bingham Not that I was told by Dremel. They stopped selling individual nozzles because people were breaking the hot ends removing them and then sending it in for warranty repair. Which I guess could be categorized as a torque issue. If you preheat and hold the plastic hot end block with some channel locks, while turning the nozzle firmly but not crazy hard with a socket or nut driver.... 9 mm, as I recall, you should have no problem.
@James Bingham Well funny how their specs have changed then, because they used to sell nozzles without complaint. Like I said, the story I got was that people were just turning them too hard and the head wasn't built strong enough to withstand that kind of torque so users were cracking them and then sending them in for warranty repairs. I guess your company services people who can't follow really simple instructions to hold the head with channel locks and snug the nozzle with a 9mm socket. If one needs "specs" for that , they are not going to get far with tools...This is just like the filament racket where we are supposed to pay an extra 50 % for Dremel product. People aren't going to pay for an entire hot end, when they can buy a MicroSwiss, heat treated A2 tool steel nozzle for a fraction of the price. Dremel and various service companies can try and upsell all they want, but only fools will buy into that...... or people that can't use tools.
If you have to take the motor assembly apart, the screws at 2:16 are T10, NOT hex as specified in this video. I got documentation from Dremel and it says T10 in that and it worked.
At 1:35, the right screw is hard to find-it's set further back. You have to fish around for it. At 2:07, there are two screws right next to eachother. I accidentally removed the right screw and spent the next half hour trying to get it back in after it dropped into the mechanism. Make sure you loosen the one on the left.
Same here but took me 5 mins though lol
It's a bit crappy that this never got updated with a more clear video. And now that Dremel's apparently discontinued 3D printing altogether, it won't ever happen.
As someone else mentioned, there are several cases of adjacent screws going on here. Closeup stills would have eliminated that confusion. Even after navigating the potential pitfalls of that and getting to the loosening of the extruder block and figuring out the correct screws, there seems to be something other than the two mentioned screws involved because I can't get the right-hand side loose on my mid-2021 purchased unit. It is quite mobile, but definitely still connected to something. I'll have a sleep on it and have another go tomorrow, I guess.
What an easy and informative walkthrough! Thank you for making several, easy to follow solutions! This was my first clog, and it took me the entire day trying to unclog, now with this video, it took me less than two minutes. Thank you!
That's gold right there. Option 4 is what I needed. Thanks.
Thank you very much! It helped me a lot with my first unclogging. Great walkthrough!
A few comments to touch on regarding my unclogging:
My 3D45 was 2 months old when my first clog happened.
There should be a step 3.5, where i removed the 3 screws from the housing - but then used my plyers while holding down the lever and this time it removed the jam!
PS on step 4, it was a 2mm hex bit on my 3D45 printer for any of those with a newer purchased unit.
They seem to just have used whatever was at hand. I used the same T10 on all of them. Granted, since only the top two actually came out, I can't tell for sure if that's correct or just happened to work fine with whatever head the other screws happened to have.
My printer is a year old and never really clogged, but after I printed some PETG it has started to act up a bit. It now seems to need a lot of warmup before it will print reliably. Usually, the first attempt fails pretty hard on the first layer (really wobbly lines, or sometimes it intermittently stops extruding), but I leave it running for a few minutes, abort and clear the plate and restart and it's fine for even multi hour prints. I figured I'd have a look in there just in case there's some thiny stuck piece of PETG or something that's causing issues until it gets hot enough to be more pliable (I'm stuck on getting the thing loose though, so not quite there yet).
Thankfully I got to option 3 but hit it with an air blast before removing the stepper motor and that seemed to clear things. Printer would print a thin layer and then stop extruding. Happened on the third spool since unboxing.
Excellent video, thank you for the help!
Option #2 worked for me, though it took a significant amount of force and the lever on the side of the head did not fully depress.
Amazing
That helped me a lot too. Thanks for the video.
what does it mean when the side lever wont go down? it seems stuck in the up position.
even unscrewing the screws my top wont come off
does anyone experience the extruder clogging over and over during the last 10 minutes of a 5 hour print? shit is so annoying!
Yes. 17 hour print that was flawless up to the last hour. They need to upgrade the simple detector switch with one that knows when the filament isn't moving.
Or some ability to lower the Z axis down using the level switch so the machine can reprint where it left off.
There are TWO screws underneath. Be sure to remove the one on the RIGHT HAND SIDE.
How do I purge????
Go to tools>preheat, then purge should be there.
Instructions not accurate. There are more screw that are needed to be removed before housing or the motor can be removed.
@James Bingham How about sharing that info with all of us ? You mean they were putting the 40 heads on the first 45's ??? I don't understand.
Worked for me - the only diff is that the screws holding the motor in place are T10 not allen
STOP! Do not proceed to option 3. Option 3 risks breaking your machine - removing any connection from an electronics board is risky. BEFORE going to option 3 remove the heating nozzle (make sure it is cold first). 10mm socket. This should be the 3rd option. The option in the video is a last chance.
@James Bingham Not that I was told by Dremel. They stopped selling individual nozzles because people were breaking the hot ends removing them and then sending it in for warranty repair. Which I guess could be categorized as a torque issue. If you preheat and hold the plastic hot end block with some channel locks, while turning the nozzle firmly but not crazy hard with a socket or nut driver.... 9 mm, as I recall, you should have no problem.
@James Bingham Well funny how their specs have changed then, because they used to sell nozzles without complaint. Like I said, the story I got was that people were just turning them too hard and the head wasn't built strong enough to withstand that kind of torque so users were cracking them and then sending them in for warranty repairs. I guess your company services people who can't follow really simple instructions to hold the head with channel locks and snug the nozzle with a 9mm socket. If one needs "specs" for that , they are not going to get far with tools...This is just like the filament racket where we are supposed to pay an extra 50 % for Dremel product. People aren't going to pay for an entire hot end, when they can buy a MicroSwiss, heat treated A2 tool steel nozzle for a fraction of the price. Dremel and various service companies can try and upsell all they want, but only fools will buy into that...... or people that can't use tools.
this video is wrong update 2020