This is very cool. I tried doing this with a BetaFPV Meteor 65 Pro but it weighed 29.5g. It flew ok but definitely heavy. I’m frankly shocked you were able to get yours under 25g as that’s a 20% weight savings from where I was and it would make all the difference in the world in terms of flight performance. Nice work!
Thanks! I listed all the parts and apart from using whoop wire instead of screws, I really didn't do anything revolutionary to save weight. Everything "thing" I did seemed to only take off .4g or .6g, so I guess it adds up. I'm still toying with the idea of taking off the heat sink off of the walksnail vTx. 1.5g of weight is a LOT!
I soldered the red wire to the positive end of the battery lead on the FC. I soldered the black wire to a gnd pad (NOT the gnd of the battery lead) So only the pos is directly soldered to the battery lead on the FC and the gnd was soldered to a gnd pad.
Very impressive little 65 whoop build you have here, I like what you have to get your build below the 25g mark. Questions: What is this whoop wire? Is it fuse wire? How did you get it tight? I have done something similar with a need and thread, and fix up where I had a broken the little post on a Betafpv whoop frame, I might just drill out all the posts and sew the FC in Great video quality you got out of your goggle recordings.
www.tinywhoop.com/collections/whoop-wire/products/magnet-whoop-wire-30awg-50ft-red-and-green-twisted Whoop wire is 30AWG wire. I get it tight by twisting it just like a twist tie on a bag of sliced bread. At about the 2:35 mark you can see where I twisted it. After a session of flying with a bunch of crashes, I just have to retwist it to tighten it back up again. Now, I'm actually using a single screw in the back as the rear wire was taking the brunt of my crashes and the one I would have to tighten the most.
@@RickyGode just maybe try a sewing needle and some cotton or thread sew in the flight controller, just like sewing a button on a garment and tying it off, it should stay nice and tight not matter what.
I just subscribed your channel. So inspiring. I am going to back to FPV after 5 years off. Can you recommend me the cheapest walksnail goggle setup I could get? For the drone, I kinda want to copy your setup. Still can not figure the budget I should prepared.
It depends, do you already have goggles? If so, do they have hdmi in? (like HDO's) You could get a Walksnail vRx, they run $220ish, or you could get a VRX combo that comes with a vRx and a 1S lite vTx for $250. If you don't already have goggles, I think the cheapest solution might be the FatShark Recon HD. I'm "think" they are compatible with the walksnail ecosystem, but am not 100% sure as I don't own a pair myself.
@@RickyGode thank you so much for the answer, its a bit difficult to gather information because anybody I know just use the DJI goggles. Currently I dont have, I have sold all of my goggles. Okay I will check the fatshark recon compatibility, it looks within my budget.
I have my HDZero 65 down to 19.12g. For canopy and grommets I used foaming TPU thats half the weight of normal TPU. I then welded the canopy and grommets together with my soldering iron and finally a drop of e6000 to hold the grommets to the frame. I could've easily built a Walksnail 65 to be within half a gram or so but flight time is just horrible on 65mm even if running analog, plus the batteries tend to be easily damaged if left charged for a few days. I have been slowly migrating everything to 75mm and 75 Pro since flight times are about twice as long and the GNB 550's don't mind being left charged, so far none have swelled after 6 months. Honestly if you aren't racing then 65mm is a complete waste IMO, I wont even buy the batteries once these go bad i'll convert it to a 75 Pro.
That's a good question. I questioned that fact as well while narrating the video. These were old packs and I'm guessing that my voltage needs calibrated a bit better on the FC as I've had the vTx cut out when it gets to 3.1 I currently am using the tatu "flat" 300mAh packs and after a couple minutes it doesn't even dip below 3.5v.
Great build! Small plastic cable ties also work well to attach fcbs to frames.
Thanks!
Keep it up kid. You'll get better. Next thing you know your spare room, and/or the basement is one giant race course. haha. hobbies.
I love hobbies!
Cool! I just bought a Happymodel crux35 v2! Might make some homemade race gates and practice
This is very cool. I tried doing this with a BetaFPV Meteor 65 Pro but it weighed 29.5g. It flew ok but definitely heavy. I’m frankly shocked you were able to get yours under 25g as that’s a 20% weight savings from where I was and it would make all the difference in the world in terms of flight performance. Nice work!
Thanks! I listed all the parts and apart from using whoop wire instead of screws, I really didn't do anything revolutionary to save weight. Everything "thing" I did seemed to only take off .4g or .6g, so I guess it adds up. I'm still toying with the idea of taking off the heat sink off of the walksnail vTx. 1.5g of weight is a LOT!
Hi Friend, Nice video. How you soldering the Walksnail 1S lite power? Directly to the power that connects to the battery on the FC board? Thanks
I soldered the red wire to the positive end of the battery lead on the FC. I soldered the black wire to a gnd pad (NOT the gnd of the battery lead) So only the pos is directly soldered to the battery lead on the FC and the gnd was soldered to a gnd pad.
Very impressive little 65 whoop build you have here, I like what you have to get your build below the 25g mark.
Questions:
What is this whoop wire? Is it fuse wire? How did you get it tight?
I have done something similar with a need and thread, and fix up where I had a broken the little post on a Betafpv whoop frame, I might just drill out all the posts and sew the FC in
Great video quality you got out of your goggle recordings.
www.tinywhoop.com/collections/whoop-wire/products/magnet-whoop-wire-30awg-50ft-red-and-green-twisted Whoop wire is 30AWG wire. I get it tight by twisting it just like a twist tie on a bag of sliced bread. At about the 2:35 mark you can see where I twisted it. After a session of flying with a bunch of crashes, I just have to retwist it to tighten it back up again. Now, I'm actually using a single screw in the back as the rear wire was taking the brunt of my crashes and the one I would have to tighten the most.
@@RickyGode just maybe try a sewing needle and some cotton or thread sew in the flight controller, just like sewing a button on a garment and tying it off, it should stay nice and tight not matter what.
@@cyberess1000 I might have to try that. I went with the whoop wire, because it was easy to adjust/remove/tighten if needed.
My Walksnail VTX and happymodel board are showing up today!! Does sound record on the VTX DVR?
Yay! Let me know how it flies. No, the vTx DVR does not record sound.
I just subscribed your channel. So inspiring.
I am going to back to FPV after 5 years off. Can you recommend me the cheapest walksnail goggle setup I could get? For the drone, I kinda want to copy your setup. Still can not figure the budget I should prepared.
It depends, do you already have goggles? If so, do they have hdmi in? (like HDO's) You could get a Walksnail vRx, they run $220ish, or you could get a VRX combo that comes with a vRx and a 1S lite vTx for $250. If you don't already have goggles, I think the cheapest solution might be the FatShark Recon HD. I'm "think" they are compatible with the walksnail ecosystem, but am not 100% sure as I don't own a pair myself.
@@RickyGode thank you so much for the answer, its a bit difficult to gather information because anybody I know just use the DJI goggles.
Currently I dont have, I have sold all of my goggles. Okay I will check the fatshark recon compatibility, it looks within my budget.
@@RickyGode wait, the total with the fatshark Recon would be around $400-500 ish which pretty much the same with the walksnail goggle themself
@@ulungprabowo The Recon HD is 279.99 (at least from Race Day Quads) and it has the vRx built in.
@@RickyGode wow really?? I thought it has to be attached with the walksnail VRX. Okay I will learn about it.
I have my HDZero 65 down to 19.12g. For canopy and grommets I used foaming TPU thats half the weight of normal TPU. I then welded the canopy and grommets together with my soldering iron and finally a drop of e6000 to hold the grommets to the frame. I could've easily built a Walksnail 65 to be within half a gram or so but flight time is just horrible on 65mm even if running analog, plus the batteries tend to be easily damaged if left charged for a few days. I have been slowly migrating everything to 75mm and 75 Pro since flight times are about twice as long and the GNB 550's don't mind being left charged, so far none have swelled after 6 months. Honestly if you aren't racing then 65mm is a complete waste IMO, I wont even buy the batteries once these go bad i'll convert it to a 75 Pro.
I think I'm leaning towards the 75-85 size as well, something like the vision 40.
Sick I’d pay you to make me one.
How is it possible That your vtx didn’t turn off when you went under 3,1V?
That's a good question. I questioned that fact as well while narrating the video. These were old packs and I'm guessing that my voltage needs calibrated a bit better on the FC as I've had the vTx cut out when it gets to 3.1 I currently am using the tatu "flat" 300mAh packs and after a couple minutes it doesn't even dip below 3.5v.
@@RickyGode ok, thank you. What fly times are possible with this build when cruising/racing and freestyling?
what antenna is that
It's the one that comes with the Walksnail Avatar HD Mini 1S Lite Kit w/ Heat sink.
@@RickyGodeinteresting, the Lite kit v1 comes with a different antenna. The normal v1 kit comes with the antenna you showed.
@FenderBender32 Mine is the v3. This one I got directly from caddx, on my 75 I de-cased a v3. On board storage is 32gb, and voltage goes to 13v
Yea that’s definitely not for racing, no 65mm whoop with those heavy vtx’s never gonna be for racing , just cruising like you doing !