What A Disaster! Will Rats Nest Miss The Chance To Chase Colorado's Deadliest Trails? -Wiring Probs
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- Have you ever had one of those weeks? We troubleshoot our Project Rats Nest XJ for an electrical drain that was hindering it from making long road trips. We check and replace lots of parts and even show you how to change out a Blower Motor on a Jeep Cherokee @ 05:30. We do premier the newly made custom rear bumper and we find hope in a friend when it comes to making our Colorado Trip Possible!! Make sure you watch this video to the end to see all the awesome stuff coming up in our Colorado "Chasing Colorado's Deadliest Trails" Series. We thank you for your support in our channel and please don't forget to hit that bell so you will know when our newest videos are dropping on Wednesday and Sunday mornings!!
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Episode 1: • I Bought A Hooptie! Ra...
Episode 2: • How To Get Good Parts ...
Episode 3: • Jeep XJ Lift - How To ...
Episode 4: • Rats Nest XJ is starti...
Episode 5: • How To Make Your Barne...
Episode 6: • Did I find a Unicorn o...
Episode 7: • Rats Nest Strikes Again!
Episode 8: • How To Install A D&C E...
Episode 9: • Bet You've Never Seen ...
Episode 10: • How To Stop Rust Forev...
Episode 11: • Crawler Hauler Update ...
Episode 12: • Jeeps Secret Past!?! B...
Episode 13: • Biggest UA-cam Wheeli...
Episode 14: • We Got A Call From @Ma...
Episode 15: • How to Install a Yukon...
Episode 16: • @RobbyLayton Shows Up ...
*Episode 17: • What A Disaster! Will...
Episode 18: • My Jeep Caught Fire!! ...
Episode 19: • NEVER REPLACE BALL JOI...
Episode 20: • How To Make Budget Hyd...
Episode 21: • Bet You've Never Done ...
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Narrow Escape at Black Bear Pass: • Narrow Escape - Trappe...
Colorado Scenic Byway: • Colorado Scenic Byway:...
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This product is meant for entertainment purposes only. Your mileage may vary. Do not try this at home. Void where prohibited. Some assembly required. For off-road use only. Slippery when wet. Batteries not included. Do not use while operating a motor vehicle, heavy equipment, cherokee XJ, wrangler TJ, wrangler JK, or any Jeep vehicle, especially the newer Fiat ones. How-to videos may be too intense for some viewers and children under 30 years of age. Please remain seated until the 4x4 ride has come to a complete stop. Studies have shown viewing these videos causes increased cancer risks in laboratory test people. I am not a professional, I have no training, I'm not even particularly good at horse whispering. Don't believe everything that you know. Please keep your hands in the vehicle at all times. Do not tap on glass. Do not eat anything that has been on the floor for more than 3 days. Keep your hands to yourself. Not to be taken internally. Reproduction strictly prohibited. Driver does not carry cash. Objects in Bleepinjeep mirrors may be farther than they appear.
Colt, I have had this problem for YEARS, and chased it all over the ENTIRE electrical system. I have a 1995 XJ, and have Upgraded all kinds of parts. I have completely changed the entire wiring system, and upgraded to a 136 amp alternator, with no change on the inside. my charging system at the battery says I am getting 14.5 volts, but the dash gauge says 12.5 to 13.5 volts if I run the heater fan. I have NO parasitic draw, and my battery has NEVER gone dead, and I travel all the time, all over the East coast from the northern tip of Maine, to Key West, Florida to Sault Saint Marie, Michigan, to New Orleans, LA. Being from Michigan, I have discussed this problem with some of the engineers who built and designed the XJ's electrical system, and at least 4 of them have told me that the readings have something to do with the internals of the ECM computer, that just happen because of age. You can try to get a REBUILT ECM (because nobody builds new ones), but it may not fix your readings. I am told that if the voltage at the battery is at least 13.2 to 14.5 volts, while it is running, you DO NOT HAVE A PROBLEM. I have not tried changing my ECM, because I just don't have $250.00 to throw at RockAuto, To MAYBE fix my readings. I was told that if it bothers you that much, hook up a manual gauge. I know the haters are going to say I am full of crap, so listen, or don't, it is up to you.
About time someone shows the real sode of building cars/trucks/jeeps. To many channels try to make all of this look super simple and easy.
Because the voltage drops the longer it runs means that there is going to be a hot spot for me where the problem is at. Just like your connector on your blower motor is melted a little bit there is a main spot some place it's going to be similar. I've actually had good luck finding problems like that by just letting it run and letting the voltage drop and go around and touch different things until I find a hotspot. But because of the way it's doing it my first guess would be the ignition switch connector. Also if you need I do have a thermal camera that you can borrow. Then you can look for the hotspot. That's how I found a bad ground cable on the old ladies Jeep.
Please, don't leave us hanging. Do another episode on the electrical fix.
Bishops castle been there many times , The owner builder is a national treasure !
Bottom line: I deal with these things all day as a professional mechanic and electrical is my favorite puzzle to work with. You need to get a wiring diagram and do voltage drop tests on the power feed to the components in question and then also continue walking your meter down the ground and voltage drop the ground side of the circuit. Remember EVERY circuit in a car is a circle from the battery/alternator back to the ground of the battery.
You're right about one thing. That bumper looks awesome! Great job. Looking forward to the adventure.
Totally feel for you chasing those electrical gremlins. Been doing that at power plants, electrical substations, and electrical switching stations for 40 years. Multiple gremlins at different locations, not the same one for 40 years. Once you find your gremlin, you will feel great satisfaction. Looking forward to Colorado series. Thanks for sharing this video. I along with many of your subscribers learn lots from this.
Grand Junction family here to help. Full shop at your help. Wedding, metal lathes. Ect. .....
XJ for life brother! 01', 280k mi, rocking the parts store and junk yard on the daily!
ive repaired many dodge and jeep hvac fan problems, the voltage loss is from the design and manufacture of a terminal fault, first is, dc has current loss especially under load, wire size will help compensate loss going bigger, but across the board running all of the fan speeds, especially high, is terminal over time to the whole circuit, the FIX, the best way to have max power for the fan on high is run a #10 hot wire directly to a relay, then the fan motor, not only does this take the load off the control panel and switch, it eliminates loss, you will have unreal xtra cfm flowing out the vents,. this applies to the headlight circuits too, i control hi and low beam from separate relay circuits with large wire, and make them way brigter, a secret additional option, i have a dash switch that allows lo and hi combined, my h4 euro halogens are as bright as most offroad lights, they kick ass, ive been a lifelong electrician and diagnose automotive electric and emissions problems daily, this will clear the rats nest woes.
I may try this on my old fox body, it dims bad when the blower motor is on high, I just always assumed it was a weak alternator but I may wire up the blower when I get around to the headlights and fog lights.
thats the ticket right there👍🤙🤪 ive done this and more to my cj volt gauge reads alot more consistenly means less worries.
The 2 high "amp" draw components you activate when you turn the A/C on are the blower motor and the A/C clutch. At idle a typical alternator only puts out 40-45% of rated amperage. You may have an alternator output issue. Some wheelers upgrade to the Durango 136amp unit for specifically that reason. Good luck, Colt.
Damn...electric issues are the worst. Super impressed with your troubleshooting and just like everyone else, I'm confident you'll get it sorted out.
This was my first video from your channel. I dig the fact you worked so hard to resolve it.
thanks, still trying to figure it out!
@@bleepinjeep have you hopscotched all the way back to the battery positive terminal looking for the 2+ volt drop? 13.5 on a running battery is low, maybe there's a bad cell in the battery - i had that recently on my mistreated optima yellowtop. What year does the electrical system most closely resemble? 96? 95? Do you have an accurate .pdf ?I do online help a LOT (since 2005) and this HAS been occupying my thoughts lately, so don't be shy.
Yeah to XJ electrical problems!! Good luck 👍 I just add new, that electrical is a mess but your not alone!
I got so mad at my wife's 1996 Jeep Sahara I made a ground bar, plus independent circuits for everything. She hated all the switches and sold the Jeep. Your way of going about it was better than mine, good luck.
Try the hop scotch method on the positive or hot side with the positive post of the battery being "home base" for one if the leads. In theory, as you move your other lead of the voltmeter to other terminations or junctions you should read zero because it is or should be the same voltage. As you come across a voltage drop, your meter will display a value greater than zero. That is where a " choke" or a unnecessary load maybe present. Example, a bad or worn female to male pin connector. Hope this helps
Electrical..my arch nemesis ! I’m lucky enough to have a good buddy who teaches commercial heavy equipment electronics and is a genius when comes to problems like this…he actually enjoys working on old cars with snarled wiring harnesses.
👍👍 It’s always something!
regulator in the computer? it was in Matt's (Offroad Recovery) Bannana, subbed an alternator with a regulator built in and that solved his issue
I've been watching you working on numerous jeeps and solving many issues and I'm positive you'll come up with the answer Colt 👍 I've had issues with my 97 ram pickup on and off and it's an electrical nightmare 😱✌️🇺🇲
Bishops castle is amazing.
Had a 97’ XJ for 6 years. Cost me $1,000.00 a year to operate it. Weekly check engine light. Finally put tape over the light and just drove it. The XJ is a weekly project. I pulled the interior out and physically traced every wire. Made fixes, changed connectors the works. Added multiple grounds. Didn’t change the computer. I sold mine this year for $300 more than i paid for it 6 years ago. The XJ is the poster child for Just Empty Every Pocket. If it was me cut your losses and sell it. Or just drive it and carry tools and spare parts and electrical tape
That's too bad bud. You wait for these things to come around in the last minute something comes up. Take care and be safe cuz I know you'll have it on your mind all the time thinking what you should have done. Worry about it when you get back. Keep your mind on the trails. Have fun bud.💪🏽👍🏽👌🏽🙋🏽♂️😎.
Cole, the voltage continuing to drop is the hot spot getting hotter and becoming a larger resistor. I would take out the blower relay and hot wire the load side (going to the blower thru the dash harness. If it maintains voltage from the hot wire point to the blower motor while running, then ohm out the load feed side (other side harness at the relay) to the point that is supplying that wire. I'll try to find a diagram to mark up for you. Sometimes relays can't pass the full load thru the load switch. They are analog and mechanical devices and on method of failure is that they can pass degraded load voltage across them when the relay is switched on.
As an equipment mechanic out in the field for 28 years, I can sympathize chasing electrical gremlins. Not meeting deadlines is a real bummer. It's good to see someone fixed you up with a ride. Looking forward to seeing the trip.
And I'm VERY curious as to what your voltage drop is caused by.
I had to change out my blower motor and the plug end that goes to the fan switch on the dash when I bought my 2000 Wrangler in 2011. The motor was going bad and pulling too many amps which caused the plug to heat up and start to melt.
I read on a forum that this was an issue for a lot of TJ owners. Changed both pieces out and haven't had an issue since. I dig your content! Thanks
i hate working under the dash….worst thing to work on in a vehicle…… but the new rear bumper looks great
There's a stud on the passenger side of the engine. that has a bunch of ground wires on it that can get ratty, but I don't think that's a problem this time.
I think it's something under the dash not telling the alternator to increase it's output or causing a bunch of resistance.good luck!!! miss my Cherokee!!!
Mine had a grounding strap. All corroded to hell. Forgot about that
I added a heavy gauge wiring from engine to firewall and battery in my 90XJ to head off ground issues. It was interesting enough being my second battery was in right rear corner with heavy gauge welder cable. Fan resistor as someone else noted. Likely dash, cluster or steering column wiring. That caused me a bunch of grief due to corrosion. The dang headlight switch resistor bugged out on mine too. It has been up to door handles in swamp water of It Ocala N.F. that killed a new high amp alternator too.
could just be many wires exposed to environmental due to mice and rats chewing on wiring.
So sad that you didn't get the problem worked out but you know what there had to be a reason why besides a short, Glad your friend let you borrow, rent, whatever you call it Is his Jeep great travels have fun
Man, I know the frustration you are going through! Deadline looming and the gremlin can't be found, sure hope you share the solution when you find it, and I know you will. Good luck!
Love it guys, I lived in Co. for 15 years and Jeeping there is what I miss most.
I now live in Oregon.
Hope you find the problem with Rats Nest Colt.🙏
at 8:44, is there a piece of metal stuck in the top of your hand?! LOL that's when you know you have tough hands! haha
I might have missed this in the video, but did you replace/test the blower motor resistor?
Get vid i seen some on facebook cant wait for the offical video
I know that problem! I have had 2 cherokees that have done this. I never did find the problem but it never stopped working.
If you are having ground issues or suspecting ground issues the best test is to get a heavy duty ground strap and install it onto a CLEAN section of the firewall and it should take care of your chassis ground issues.
I have now taken the entire dash apart to find that the only ground for the dash harness mounts to the removable dash. I'm in the process of cleaning up the mounting points and adding grounds to the dash wiring harness now😎👍
@@bleepinjeep oh hell yeah! I really feel for you going through that headache and I give you my thoughts and prayers lol. Congrats on you though for not stopping! That’s what it takes. I have 2 cars at my shop now that are never ending headaches like that where I STILL don’t know what’s wrong after 6 months 🤦♂️
Replace the alternator with a different brand. We had a similar issue with Autozone alternator. Not trying to trow them under the buss. But we bought a "new" not rebuilt from another store and fixed the issue.
Hey Dude, First buy a DC amp meter. Volts readings are only half the story. DC Amp meters are much less expensive than they used to be. Second; When max AC is on you have AC clutch, Fan motor and secondary radiator fan powered...even if you dont still have it, it could be grounding out the wiring. Third; ECM controls the alternator, either swap out the ECM for a known good one or go to MIT for a year or two to learn to troubleshoot/fix them. I personally would follow matt's advice and goto a regulated alternator either internally or externally if you know your altenator is good. I enjoy your channel, hope this helps.
I'm heading out to Ouray next week. Can't wait to see which trails you guys hit!
Bleeping mice! Not only do they cause headaches they can kill! I have noticed how car parts and other items are sold by the piece these days. Crazy expensive, but worse is not realizing that until you have everything torn out to replace only to discover you need X more parts. Enjoy your videos, you explain things in a way even I can understand. Stay safe and GOD bless
I feel you colt, I have the same exact problem with my 96, changed alt, done the big 3 upgrade, changed the blower resistor, with no change. Figured it was the ecm (with I though about doing a external regulator) or just corrosion in the wires creating resistance (even tho I’m in the southeast and that’s not typical). Keep us up to date with your progress! Great vid love the xj!
From my experience as a mechanic check the resistor and plug for the resistor my 87 xj did similar things and my plug on the switch was melted just like yours and so was the plug on the resistor. Most vehicles I see with blower related issues have melted plugs from the contacts getting hot with too much resistance.
ZJ clutch for the fan, pulls better, the fan switch will always get hot and over time start to melt along with the connector. adapt a 1999 Dakota 5.2 alternator, better output upgrade the charge wire.
One more thing a old school tech I worked with was fond of "when in doubt rip it out" just rewire the circuits involved. Iknow it sounds crazy but I bet if you had rewired it from the get go it would be working now.
I’m telling you a thermal imaging camera is going to fix you right up finding that hot spot in the circuit..
I would check the voltage going into the interior fuse block, passenger side under the dash, electrically that puts everything inside on the same circuit so if there is corrosion on one of the inside circuits as you pull more amps through that fuse block you are getting more resistance as the corrosion heats up. I would also check the plug for the voltage guage on the dash or the guage itself, if I remember correctly it was never reading correctly even when you started
Also check what else used that door switch fuse, Chrysler did some weird stuff with their fuses, and what they run they all interconnected somehow
I hate electrical issues. Have the alternator output checked to make sure it is putting the amps out.
go check out a voltage drop test procedure this should help you .... noninvasive testing .... having a good wiring diagram is best with locator for locating plugs ins and ground points
As I read through the comments I could see many great suggestions. Down and dirty I would just call Chads Fab.
dude i had a very similar problem chased all the same things you did. ended up being my almost new optima battery. volt meter showed it to be good, alternator showed good. took battery to good ole oriellys to test and found out it was no good. it had enough to show good with volt meter and start but not to run accessories. not sure wtf but warrantied battery and all is good.
Take the power wire to the fan off the back of the switch. Connect the original fan to the switch and a ground, then test it. If you get minimal voltage drop the problem is somewhere in the wire from the switch to the fan. If the problem is still there then the problem is between the battery and the switch.
Try wiring directly from the battery to the blower motor then check for amp drop. Just a suggestion
Have you tried running a ground cable from the battery straight to the body, say somewhere on the cowl/firewall? It's as though there is a high resistance in the power supply to the interior (not likely as there are multiple power circuits to various items) or the ground circuit back to the battery (more likely). Most of those components are likely grounded to the body. If there isn't a solid connection between the body and the battery ground post, which is much more plausible, that would be your culprit.
Well, at least there will be fun days ahead.
The fan switch in these things have a few big resistor coils that are generally plumbed through an air duct, if one is shorted out that can cause issues. I had an 80's S-10 that had issues with the blower fan that once I clicked it up to the middle position or higher it would blow a fuse and blow out my dash lights.
Bishops Castle! Been there!
hay check with a guy that helped FabRats on the Toyota and the Golden Nugget. sometimes you have to just bite the bullet and have someone help you out.
I have a 93 xj doing the same exact thing. I hope you do another video if and when you find the issue. I’ll be sure to share if I find something!
Thought just occurred to me, the ignition switch has an AUX position, IIAC it is a different set of contacts. So try the blower on AUX and see if the voltage drop is still there, use RUN but with the engine not running to get voltages to compare. You can rule out grounds pretty quickly by getting a voltmeter connected to a bare metal chassis ground, then look at the voltage on the negative side of your plug in voltmeter. Or you'll find the missing volts and start scrutinizing grounds.
Checkyour resistor for the blower speeds
Dude! I've been having the same exact problem! Never thought it might be the AC fan! Going to dig into this
Get yourself a dc amp clamp to find those problems quicker. Ideal makes a reasonably priced one.
Did you check the ac pump. I had an ac pump go bad and it would cause the voltage to drop when I turned on the heater when it was on defrost
also, i have tube bumpers for my Comanche build, and they will be painted with Por15, your bumper looks great!!!! i like shiny paint and cant stand bedliner👍
Fuses can become resistive over time. I suggest you try replacing the fuse to the blower motor. Also, I had a problem with burning up blower motors and the problem turned out being a defective ignition switch with a loose contact. Now it's time for me to get out in the garage and finish the wiring update on the Wrangler.
If you're chasing a short, you could use a laser thermometer to find your hot spot, might help narrow things down quicker. Hope this helps. God bless and stay well.
Sorry your rig didn't go, all the best to you and your loved ones
Hey Colt, put your volt meter ground on the battery with a long wire and go around to the grounds starting at the body from the battery with all the components on, when you find more than a volt on th ground side of a component, you found your problem. I’m thinking it’s a major ground from engine to body.
Bad ground. Run 2/0 wire from alternator bolt on engine block to the battery. (that is what I did on a 350a alternator. I also have winches and a dump trailer that I run off of that rig.)
I killed a couple of alternators that way. Using a FLIR One will do awesome for looking for problems.
the fan and gauges all get power from the same spot and that spot is fed by a main feed wire that is too small. the guage and cig light socket are connected to that point. You are not reading battery or alt voltage output, you are reading the voltage at the fuse panel/load panel under the driverside dash. add another 10 gauge wire from distrubution center under the hood to the + supply on the fuse box under the dash. Also you could cut the volt gauge trace on the pcb board and solder hot and ground wires straight to the ignition relay under the hood as close to the battery as possible. You want it to switch off when key is out.
I REALLY hope your electrical gremlin is all sorted out. (if not) Get the blower current out of the PDC box (as opposed to the fuse blocks). Easy Peasy Get a 10 gauge red wire, put on a ring terminal for the battery connector, and a male blade on the other end. PULL the @#@! PDC box's fuse that runs the blower motor in the PDC box, find the fuse's side to the blower motor and plug the male blade in there. That blower motor juice now no longer runs through the PDC box circuitry... -- WITHOUT pulling apart another harness or assembly to do it. I have learned so much from watching your videos, and always eagerly await new ones... Helps me feel less trapped in the house.
I had the exact same issue on my 4Runner. It turned out to be the circuit opening relay for the fuel pump. The thing had moisture inside and was completely rusted so run through your relays as well and see if there is one deteriorated or damaged.
Looks like a short circuit. Trace all power wiring for the heater system. Wiring diagram will definitely help.
It’s really good to know I am not the only one that has these problems.
I had a time sorting issues with my Grand Cherokee. The alternator recommended by the parts stores was 120 amp. I pulled a build sheet that showed my GC was built with a 136 amp alternator. After I installed a 136 amp alternator all of my issues are resolved.
Fusible link some where, Ford Broncos have that problem. I run a extra from Alt to Battery.
You've got a bad connection. Turning on the blower motor causes current to flow through the bad connection. Because the connection is bad (has high resistance) a voltage is generated when current flows through it (ohms law). When this voltage is generated it creates an offset that is reducing the voltage seen at the cigarette lighter.
You could have also used a volt meter directly on the battery itself. The cigarette lighter circuit may be giving you a wrong reading depending on where the connection fault is.
Where you showed the voltage continue to drop over time this is because the bad connection is heating up and making it warmer further increases the resistance.
The blower motor is important because it is causing a large-ish current to flow, but the motor itself is not the problem, as you saw when you swapped it out.
You need to get the wiring diagram for this year XJ. You also need to test the voltage at the battery itself when turning on the blower motor. If the voltage drops at the battery when turning on the blower motor(this means the alternators output is actually being reduced) you need to trace the circuit back up the warning light/field current supply and to the dash. Find the common element with the blower, cig lighter and dash. If the voltage does not drop at the battery but you see it drop at the cigarette lighter (this means the alternator supply is find and the fault is a power/ground to the dash), then you need to look at the voltage supply and ground connections to the blower motor, cig lighter, and dash. Find what elements they share and target those for troubleshooting.
Also follow the grounds from the battery to the engine and the battery to the body. If the battery only goes to the body, find the ground from the body to the engine. Remove and clear those with scotch brite/steel wool/wire brush and reassemble. You could use some dielectric grease on them when you re-assemble or spray them with battery terminal protectant, like CRC 3175 once they have been assembled. This will ensure a low resistance connection and prevent moisture from causing further corrosion.
I can see the frustration and I have been there. It is very difficult to diagnose electrical problems if you aren't looking at the big picture, the complete wiring diagram. There is so much you just can't see because the wiring is hidden. As you said the voltage meter in the dash read low compared to the cig lighter. That is a symptom. There is something too that. You need to know if the alternator's output is actually being reduced (voltage at the battery) and then look at the schematic and figure out where the fault could be based on the locations you are seeing a voltage drop.
If I had to guess I would say your problem is in the dash based on the blower motor causing such an issue but the headlight not really causing a problem. If it was a main ground issue, you would see the problem with any load. Because it is just the blower motor I'm guessing it's a dash power or ground where the problem is.
If you have 13.6 at the battery you should be fine. The ecm on those older mopar rigs is what controls the alternator output. I ran into a dodge Dakota with charging problems and I never could get it right but I did run an external circuit to fix it. Have you looked at the factory diagram to see those inputs and their values?
I heard something about changing the alternator voltage regular to internal and bypass the cpu.
No car expert. But i would check for short circuits on the wire after the relay or whatever it is that switches on the fan and let's the current flow to the fan.
The problem only introduce itself when you turn the fan on and you have eliminated the ground and fan as the problem source
I disconnect my battery remove all affected switches put them in a jar of vinegar and put the harness connector and vinegar as well allowed to dry reassemble🛠
If the voltage remains around 13.5 on the battery and alternator, how is the cig lighter volt reading going to affect the battery? Seems like your volts are good with the battery but inside, theres a drop that isn't taking any volts from the battery. I'd consider the battery voltage reading more accurate and consider the problem less of an issue. Also, whats the inside volts with the engine RPM at 2,000 vs idle with the blower on high ? I'd run a voltmeter gauge wired directly to the battery terminal or other if you want it to be switched off and monitor voltages that way. Who knows where the cig lighter is finding its power but its obvious its fairly last in line.
i had similar problem past few years but only happens every two years i put new alternator in and its good to go holds 13.5 even with subwoofer and ac on i would try a napa alternator
Check the ignition switch for the volt drop when the blower is on.
I know what the problem is Colts I wish I could talk to you in person I have a 90 Cherokee that had the same problems. I wired the blower straight from the fuse box under the dash through the firewall and directly to the battery so every time I parked the Cherokee I have to turn off the blower by hand... It works perfect now..
Looks like Black Bear Pass in the preview.
Hey Colt !! There are some GOOD pointers on your comments about the wiring problem !! If you watch Casey LaDelle's video with his ""MOPAR"" for the 4 wheel drive wiring
Since you've narrowed it down from the blower motor to somewhere in the controlls I would have put it on a relay and ran a single wire to the high terminal and a toggle switch to the relay bypassing the factory wiring and gone wheeling....
If I wasn't driving across multiple states I would have. But I want to fix it right and know it's dependable before shooting across the country.
@@bleepinjeep that's what that flatbeddish lookin tow rigs fer lol
you have a working blower motor? you have a washer reservoir? top it off with that beautiful bumper build, dang I'm jealous. bummer that electrical has you stumped but no doubt you'll have it figured out when not crunched by time.
You have an open ground somewhere, or ground junction chewed on
Do check the ignition key switch
About to do this on my TJ. It doesn't transfer exactly but it is the same logic I think.
I wonder, what happened to Tim and Tyler? I know they aren't members of the bleepinjeep umbrella but it's seems like they completely disappeared
I wonder if you got a short in the dash wiring going between the fan control wires and the voltage guage and it's back feeding to the alternator. Turing off the sensing circuit in the alternator. Might be creating a false overcharged to the alternator sensing unit. Had a similar issue with and exciter and tac wire in my yj.
Sorry!! old suggestion bad, Blower not supposed to work on AUX, and that does narrow the circuit feed choices. ign sw #1 is start, #2 is start and run, #6 is run and acc but NOT start and #5 only during run. Pins 4 & 7 are 12 gauge RED power feeds.
Voltmeter in hand is the answer. Trace out the circuits till you find the voltage drop across a connection or device. And letting it run for a bit you may find smoke first but then you will know where the problem is or was!
Your alternator should be putting out 14.1 to 14.5 volts
Went through this same issue with my 93 two door cherokee, ended up only being solved by a 110 amp high output alternator and the 94 YJ alternator bracket conversion to fit it.
If your ground has no volt drop, check voltage drop at the b+ side. Your ignition switch may be the culprit. If there is a 1 volt change from the feed going in to the power key on going to the fuse panel, replace the ignition switch. You already verified it’s a voltage drop, just need to find it.
You pointed out the resistor, but did you change it?