A valiant effort, SUBSCRIBED!! I had a Machado 6' Seaside but I was 66 back then & 100kg - too old & fat! Back on a 9'4" now - just coming back from a pump track debacle - MCL/PCL & Meniscus tear in my knee - 5 months out of the water & wearing a knee brace under my wetty - so good to be back out there YYYYYYYYEEEEEEEEEEWWWWW!!! :)
Wow that was nasty , yeah I love the pump track but have to go to the mainland for that we got nothing like that on the island, shame you’re on the other side of the world Martin would be an honour to meet and surf with you , appreciate you subscribing yeeew
I’m spoilt buddy everyone will tell you haha thanks for the message I’m going to try surf the fish all through the autumn and winter to get used to it 🙏🏻🤙🏼
Nice waves! Bit harder to catch waves on a smaller board, no? When paddling keep your arms close to the rails, not out away from rails. Your hands should be digging right next to the board, even sweeping under the board. More efficient. A deep clean stroke, made with intent. Take every stroke like it's your last: no half measures. Remember - the hardest thing about surfing is not getting to your feet, it is catching waves. Here's a funny thing you might notice about good surfers: they catch a lot of waves. I see you've narrowed your stance (?). Your man on the pale green longboard has a nice stance. It's not about style. It's about moving around on the board easily. The wide stinkbug stance freezes your legs in place. If you lift a leg, you lose your balance. Your stance should only be wide enough so you can lift one foot without losing your balance. That's the goal, anyway. Fundamental on longboards. Not so much on shortboards. Your popup looks good. If you want to get to that "all in one motion" popup, there is only one way to do it: just do it. It's the only way. But most folks have a fear of falling, and will do the popup incrementally. This is *tough* to unlearn. In any case, the smooth popup can only be learned by doing, wiping out or not. So I recommend going out on shitty days and just work on it with intent. Caveat: all kinds of popups work and there is nothing wrong with any of them. But smooth, one-motion popup is what works best in steep, hard-breaking waves. That's why folks gravitate towards it. Losing the fear of wiping out is liberating. The stinkbug stance and the incremental popup are both symptoms. That's why kids learn quick. They don't give a shite. Adults, on the other hand... Paddling and maneuvering first; everything else after. If you surf the fish for a while, leaving the longboard in the garage, then after sessions with the fish in all types of waves for a month or so, then go back to the longboard. Feel the difference. I know, advice is cheap. Love your, your beach, and your crew's stoke. Best regards Dave! Andy
Andy your a legend thank you ever so much mate I agree with everything you’ve said and the bit about fear of wiping out is very true, I will keep putting into practice what you tell me , hope your well buddy and enjoying life
Hey Dave! Curious what prompted you to jump down in board size? Started surfing at 58 years old. After two years of prone, then to knees, then to feet pop-ups, I committed after my 61st birthday that this is going to be a thing of the past. And I figured out a way to get it done. I want to get you a short video clip of what helped me make this HUGE change. How can I get this video clip to you?
Hello buddy 1st of all my apologies for deleting your messages about the details of my longboard its9ft 6in x23x3in and as for coming down in size I wanted to challenge myself with the autumn swells coming and always liked the idea of riding a fish my email is on my profile I think but if not it’s dave66graham@gmail.com
I’ll be honest in saying you’re just going to slow down your progression by riding a board that’s beyond your ability. Rad you’re having fun, but you’ll have more fun on a more suitable board and you will progress faster. Good luck.
Thankyou dude it’s the smallest board I’ve ever tried, been surfing 3 years but obviously we don’t get many waves during the summer so that’s why I’ve given up work to concentrate on my surfing hope you join me on my journey 🤙🏼
A valiant effort, SUBSCRIBED!! I had a Machado 6' Seaside but I was 66 back then & 100kg - too old & fat! Back on a 9'4" now - just coming back from a pump track debacle - MCL/PCL & Meniscus tear in my knee - 5 months out of the water & wearing a knee brace under my wetty - so good to be back out there YYYYYYYYEEEEEEEEEEWWWWW!!! :)
Wow that was nasty , yeah I love the pump track but have to go to the mainland for that we got nothing like that on the island, shame you’re on the other side of the world Martin would be an honour to meet and surf with you , appreciate you subscribing yeeew
Oh my. You really have a dream wife. Surfboard as a present is awesome. Grinding on the shorter boards will hone your skills. Keep it up! 👍
I’m spoilt buddy everyone will tell you haha thanks for the message I’m going to try surf the fish all through the autumn and winter to get used to it 🙏🏻🤙🏼
The too fish looks fun! 🤙🏾
Once I sort my pop up dude haha 🤙🏼
Yeahhhh, this is dope. Just subscribed, keep it up 🎉
@@Fanos_Life epic fanos thanks for subscribing dude really appreciate it and hope you enjoy my journey
Legend dude we do have so much fun what a year we’ve had thanks dude ❤the son you never wanted
But I guess I’ve adopted you now son haha , can’t believe it’s been a year what a blast we’ve had and many more years of adventures to come 🤙🏼
Noble attempts ✌️ its a different beast going to those short wide ones. Having fun though, you'll get it 🤙
Thank you dude that means a lot, I’ll definitely keep at it 🤙🏼
@@MiddleagedGrom oh, you'll get it on your next go, I can feel it
@thejarrettsjourney 🙏🏻 thanks brother 🤙🏼
Gotta love a fish 🐠
When I learn to ride it properly buddy haha
I love small things 👋🧄🫡
Especially tea trays
Go on lads x
Thank you Rachael 🤙🏼
New board to bring to The Wave next visit
Haha don’t think I’ll be going there again rich it’s not for me I prefer to be in the ocean, when you coming over to our island
@@MiddleagedGrom hoping to plan a weekend visit soon Dave
Let me know when rich and bring your wetsuit
Nice waves! Bit harder to catch waves on a smaller board, no? When paddling keep your arms close to the rails, not out away from rails. Your hands should be digging right next to the board, even sweeping under the board. More efficient. A deep clean stroke, made with intent. Take every stroke like it's your last: no half measures. Remember - the hardest thing about surfing is not getting to your feet, it is catching waves. Here's a funny thing you might notice about good surfers: they catch a lot of waves.
I see you've narrowed your stance (?). Your man on the pale green longboard has a nice stance. It's not about style. It's about moving around on the board easily. The wide stinkbug stance freezes your legs in place. If you lift a leg, you lose your balance. Your stance should only be wide enough so you can lift one foot without losing your balance. That's the goal, anyway. Fundamental on longboards. Not so much on shortboards.
Your popup looks good. If you want to get to that "all in one motion" popup, there is only one way to do it: just do it. It's the only way. But most folks have a fear of falling,
and will do the popup incrementally. This is *tough* to unlearn. In any case, the smooth popup can only be learned by doing, wiping out or not. So I recommend going out on shitty days and just work on it with intent. Caveat: all kinds of popups work and there is nothing wrong with any of them. But smooth, one-motion popup is what works best in steep, hard-breaking waves. That's why folks gravitate towards it.
Losing the fear of wiping out is liberating. The stinkbug stance and the incremental popup are both symptoms. That's why kids learn quick. They don't give a shite. Adults, on the other hand...
Paddling and maneuvering first; everything else after.
If you surf the fish for a while, leaving the longboard in the garage, then after sessions with the fish in all types of waves for a month or so, then go back to the longboard. Feel the difference.
I know, advice is cheap. Love your, your beach, and your crew's stoke.
Best regards Dave!
Andy
Andy your a legend thank you ever so much mate I agree with everything you’ve said and the bit about fear of wiping out is very true, I will keep putting into practice what you tell me , hope your well buddy and enjoying life
Hey Dave! Curious what prompted you to jump down in board size?
Started surfing at 58 years old. After two years of prone, then to knees, then to feet pop-ups, I committed after my 61st birthday that this is going to be a thing of the past. And I figured out a way to get it done. I want to get you a short video clip of what helped me make this HUGE change. How can I get this video clip to you?
Hello buddy 1st of all my apologies for deleting your messages about the details of my longboard its9ft 6in x23x3in and as for coming down in size I wanted to challenge myself with the autumn swells coming and always liked the idea of riding a fish my email is on my profile I think but if not it’s
dave66graham@gmail.com
@@MiddleagedGromcool, thanks
Will send it over!
@user-fg3hd3et2h look forward to it buddy thanks
I’ll be honest in saying you’re just going to slow down your progression by riding a board that’s beyond your ability. Rad you’re having fun, but you’ll have more fun on a more suitable board and you will progress faster. Good luck.
@raff23able appreciate your honesty dude , I knew it wouldn’t go right first time just had to try it out 🤙🏼hope you’re enjoying my journey
Not bad if that's you first surf ever.
Thankyou dude it’s the smallest board I’ve ever tried, been surfing 3 years but obviously we don’t get many waves during the summer so that’s why I’ve given up work to concentrate on my surfing hope you join me on my journey 🤙🏼