QWIK CLIP - Making a $5.00 Morse Taper 2 Blank Arbor - MSFN
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
- I needed a blank MT2 Arbor to put custom threads on….so made one! It’s a quick and easy lathe project and you will be glad you made one for your shop! Especially since they sell for over $20 on Ebay and over $60 at MSC. Please subscribe and click the notifications “bell” to get notified of newly released videos. Thanks for Watching!
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Put a tap in a drill chuck ,and don't tighten the tail stock,then if its a blind hole spin chuck with hand ,if its a trough hole you can use it while under power-easy and straight taped hole every time.Same trick works with drill press or milling machine.
If you put ball bearing on that arbor and a short pipe on bearing you can make a Die holder and use it instead of drill chuck on a tail stock.
Where did you get that threaded MT arbor?
Even with MT3 x MT2 sleeve in the spindle the runout was only .0012, quality tapers in my opinion for $4.95 www.ebay.com/itm/2MT-SHANK-TO-1-2-20-THREADED-DRILL-CHUCK-ARBOR-HARDENED-MORSE-TAPER-MT2-ADAPTER-/112053087662?epid=1377933407&hash=item1a16e26dae:g:sYAAAOSwOtdYUBzK
My belts are really tight so find it easier to just use the tap wrench rather than spin the chuck by hand....I have done that before with aluminum tho. I really love all the suggestions you provide...I wish we were neighbors! LOL
Completely acceptable. You may be able to tighten that up by going through the alignment sequence but looking at what you are producing I wouldn't bother a bit !
Great video. I have a Clausing 8520 with a MT2 drawbar and I was looking for someone who made their own tooling. I now have confidence I can do it!
MT2 drawbar tooling is slim.
Thanks again
Luv seeing a lathe dog being used…..great work.
Runs that old South Bend like a Boss. Wait a minute. That's a Craftsman Commercial. Still can't beat em. Either one. Got a Big ten, Dad took real good care of all his tools. Wish I was half the man he still is.
Atlas Lathe...12 x 36" Thx for watch'n
Great! Now I can build my T-96, as many of the same procedure is required
Glad it helped!
I'm a total rookie, and I like the explanations. Having said that, I got what was going on in this video.
👍🏼 I am just a rookie too 😊 ~ Richard
Just found your channel and Subscribed. Nice work.
I was impressed by the drive dog, great lateral thinking.
Yes, it works well...thanks :)
Excellent, new subscriber here from Florida....Paul
Your presentation was fine. It was easy to follow your project progress and the notes gave additional information. Keep up the good work!
Great to hear! Thanks for watching!
Well not really under $5 if you add the $5.50 shipping but still cheap. Commentary is something I prefer because if I miss something in the video I have an audible to pick up on. Thanks for the video Rich, keep 'em coming!
I bought 3 and some other things, quite reasonable. Thanks for chiming in on the format!
I agree with your on the video format.
Agree I also prefer explanation. Nothing prevents both leaving the option to mute audio as I often do with annoying background music 🙂
I myself make some videos in Danish for math students.
When I started I really didn't like the thoughts of hearing my own voice. Well, I still don't, but I've got used to heae it and haven't heard anyone complaining about my voice. Perhaps they are all polite.
My daughter told me most people don't like their own voices when hearing them on any media and the reason should be that normally you hear your own voice through the chin bones more than from your mouth, through the air and through your ear channel.
I prefer voices on any UA-cam video and as mentioned elsewhere you always have the ability to mute the sound as I often do evenings when lying in bed next to my wife watching "machinist" videos.
Great video! I need to make a whole lot of Morse tool holders for my milling machine and this video gave me some ideas on how to hold the workpiece, so thanks! Keep up the good work!
Thanks Fredrik!, glad it gave you some ideas! Always nice to see you in the comments :)
Great video Rich. As far as commentary, I prefer to have it there.
Joe
Thanks Joe, have a great week!
Great job on the arbor. I watch myfordboy videos, so commentary is not always necessary when watching a craftsman at his trade. I guess I can be verbose, and overload my videos with comments, but it's like I have someone in the room, and I'm having a conversation. Like entertaining a guest. See you next time.
Thanks, glad you stopped by! ~ Richard
iam really thankfull for u give a wonderfull video for us
Much appreciated....Thank You! Consider subscribing to the channel! 😊
Good video, to the point and useful info
Sitting here with a BS7 mill spindle reaching for my tv as you toss it into the scrap bin. Oh well. :)
I kept it, no clue where it is now
Very good!
Thanks CNC! :)
I'm a newbie in applied machining so I had to struggle to half way follow your actions. Generally I'm in with the theme of your channel title and will follow however you decide. Thanks.
Hello there from deep down under across the pond.
Liked and Subscribed immediately. Don't know how we missed Your Videos.
Really like some of Your Fast Forward format which wastes no time in showing exactly what U doing, with no dilly dallying. However, as a learning Hobby Machinist communications to us viewers by way of verbal explanations does assist tremendously in understanding, undertaking and tackling similar issues.
Just my two cents worth.
Keep 'em rolling.
ATB
aRM
Thanks for viewing, subbing and the comment. I learn by the feedback I receive so Thank You! Most videos I do have verbal explanation (I usually overdo it) and talk too much but glad to receive input on what benefits the viewer the most. I am not the best narrator but do my best when working thru what I am doing on the lathe. I think you will see that in other machining vids ~ Richard
Thanks for a great idea.
A bit of yacking is good to set things into motion. It was fine for this video though. Change it up depending just how much detail you’re trying to convey.
Thanks MTX! :)
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching :)
yep good work
Thanks Thomas! :)
Very nice.
Thanks Ron 😊
This would be great, if you had a fitter's workshop to make one?
Or buy one from Busy Bee Tools in Canada. They cost about $8 Canadian which is about $5 us. 1" portion is not hardened so can be easily machined.
Thanks man!!
I sent you an email, enjoy your day ~ Richard
I didn't know what you were doing, but I'm not a machinist.
The silence is more professional, but this isn't ProTube, this is UA-cam, I missed you MSFN.
Also, I didn't see if you added a chamfer on the thread start. It's considered good practice to put a chamfer on the start/end of every thread.
So noted on the format. Actually I chamfered the lead in and end of the threaded section...I apparently skipped it during editing. I was trying to keep the video short. Nice that you caught it! 👍🏼
good video
Thanks William, I appreciate ya :)
Only problem, you require all the main tools before you can make a tool. So in reality it could cost more than $5
Good video, I enjoyed watching.
I would suggest doing a combination of this style for obvious and repetitive steps and talking about other parts not as obvious that could help people looking for guidance.
Thanks for the solid input, I appreciate ya watching! ~ Richard
I am like you. If i already paid 15000 for a cnc lathe, why would i spend $25 for a tool i can make for $2. Especially if i can find other people who need my product.
Good job.
Either format is OK by me. It depends if there is anything technical to include regarding options etc as to having voice commentary.
Music can get a bit annoying at times though - depends on your taste I suppose ;)
I have some green Loctite but it's for external thread locking/filling. I'm not sure how the colour codes go with that stuff.
Cheers Rob
The Loctite thing never ceases to amaze me....like 400 different kinds trying to put you in the poorhouse....but at least your connections are secure 😐 Thanks for chiming in Rob...stay warm!
I had a look on the net to clarify the difference in thread locker colors and found this: henkeladhesivesna.com/blog/the-difference-between-red-blue-green-and-purple-threadlockers/
I'd always assumed that green Loctite was a wicking type locker for pre-assembled parts, and it looks like that is correct.
I have a large bottle of the stuff from a factory closing sale, that will last ten people several lifetimes. The label is unreadable so I must have checked it against the color codes way back as I'm using it correctly.
I've never tried to use it any other way, like you did, on screw together work for which I would use red stud locker - strongest bond.
Loctite say you need heat to unscrew the red locker, but I use this on Ducati engines and the high tensile bolts always crack open OK cold. I suppose it could be an issue on mild steel bolts.
Interesting.
Cheers Rob
Actually that 609 that you used is probably quite OK for that job anyway. The colour codes are totally confusing. Maybe they bottle the same coloured stuff and sell it for different purposes.
Now I'm not sure if what I have is 609 or 290. LOL It does work as a wicking thread locker very very well so I suspect that is what it is - 290. Probably used on vehicle front end shim adjusters.
Seeing as it came from the Chrysler factory when they shut down, anything is possible. I might try it as a retainer compound (609) and see how it goes.
Cheers again.
Rob
All I know is that trying to learn all the applications and Loctite variations gives me a headache. Heck, I am poor...and will use what I have on whatever I got. Nothing I am doing is life threatening...LOL Now if for a job that isnt mine...I will educate myself and obtain the proper kind. I bought the green 609 for the live center as a bearing retainer...thats the recommended use.
I have watched vids on the wicking aspect...they had thick acrylic tapped and put a drop or two at the top with the bolt in...wicked all the way down. Impressive
good stuff
Thanks LW!
Lazy watchsmith woodturning
A method of making a reamer for cheap would be great.
I dont have good enough equipment to make one :(
d@@MakinSumthinFromNuthin Don't feel like the Lone Ranger.
add the taper for no 2 morse in degrees and minutes
first one was bad. I'm guessing needed left hand threads?
I prefer the older style, I like to hear the person I'm watching. One can get more out of it that way than just words. Old style for me.
Thanks for your feedback and for watching! :)
I'm surprised about your vids.. Here in Switzerland I personally don't know people around that do such things like you.... Accepted by me and my good friend Jan... We are improver's for our life..... Reusing scrap is better for our environment and our wallet's... Hope we can contact some how and probably do a little project together!!! Greetings From Swizerland Philippe John Stucki. P.S. We like to build stuff. From enytihng.... Really enytihng.....
I am glad you liked the vid and the concept of my channel....makin sumthin from nuthin 😊 Thanks for the very kind words and good luck with all that you do! i appreciate ya! ~ Richard
Want to give you my email... Little concerned about privacy...
I like to here what you're saying/thinking.
So noted....trying to get a feel for what people like more. Thx for your input! 👍🏼
Some of my most successful vids are where I dont talk...LOL
Good job~ what kind of material do you use?
Normal mild steel on that one
@@MakinSumthinFromNuthin 👍
5 dollars! I don’t think so! How much did the steel bar cost? I think you might have to add the two costs together. I don’t know about you but I have to buy my steel stock.
good job. i do the same A*
turning between centers more accurate than sticking it into the MT where it will be used??
Yessir, between centers provides more accuracy
enjoyed your vid, iv,e got a project in mind to get a m2 blank and bore a hole all the way through and bore it to suit a 10mm watchmakers collets ,is it just the ends thats soft metal could i drill through the shank cheers john
The cheap ones are most likely soft throughout....try it! Thanks for watching & Happy Holidays! 😊🎉
thanks mate nice work
Where or who can I buy the my 2 taper from ? Great video !!!
I got mine on ebay'...check there. Cant remember the seller tho :(
NO!!! you can't just scrap that B&S #7 arbor! I need one of those!
I kept it :-)
the old arbour looked thick enough to regrind intoo a mk2 taper
Possibly...but I dont have a toolpost grinder, mill, or surface grinder 😖
A post grinder is super easy to make. A pc of angle iron and a couple hose clamps to hold a small angle grinder. Lots of stone poss. too.It will make for a great video too.
I am looking into hiring a squirrell and getting a round cage! 😖
LMFAO !,LOL ! Be one damned tough squirrel eh !
We have tuff ones in Florida! 😎
Don't throw the taper away, anneal it, turn it, and use it.
Between you and I : I saved it 😊
Where did you find the original MT to Threaded Shank part for $5?
Even with MT3 x MT2 sleeve in the spindle the runout was only .0012, quality tapers in my opinion for $4.95 www.ebay.com/itm/2MT-SHANK-TO-1-2-20-THREADED-DRILL-CHUCK-ARBOR-HARDENED-MORSE-TAPER-MT2-ADAPTER-/112053087662?epid=1377933407&hash=item1a16e26dae:g:sYAAAOSwOtdYUBzK
I am curious as to why the B&S arbour didn't fit your tailstock ? Was the taper off or the tang on the end not right or ? Nice job though !
Thanks! Its a totally different taper than morse...it wont hold in my tailstock...wasnt a tang issue. I actually had to machine an adapter for the bullnose center to demonstrate it in my previous video series. Now the live bullnose center can go in the toolbox and is complete.
Awesome to be able to throw junk away. Is it too hard to repurpose ? As well what is the make of that lathe. It sure is a sweet machine.
I have no use for a Brown & Sharpe 7 taper and no equipment to repurpose it. I could anneal it in the forge tho and possibly do something with it...its hardened steel
Ohhh, the Lathe is an Atlas Craftsman 12 x 36 Commercial Underdrive Lathe, early 70’s vintage
For sure. I haven't seen any B&S in a very,very long time.
Probably better for the more informed viewers. Talk is better me,
Yery. Good. Ok .
Thanks! 😊
cool vid but the thread cutting bit would have been better if in realtime and explained
I agree, I enjoy thread cutting videos as well~ Richard
i like talking way better if i want no voice or ff i can do that on my end.why did you take the part out of the taper to turn a part not on that taper ? thanks for sharing
I am not sure I understand your question. The bullnose center I made in a previous video was machined to fit the 7/8-20 taper shank I had...but it turned out NOT to be a morse taper...and wouldnt fit the tailstock. So I retrofitted the new MT2 taper with a threaded 7/8-20
oh you put the taper part in the head of the lathes taperd bore to turn it then took it out to turn betwin centers .why not leave it in and tread itwith just 2 inches sticking out
Ohhh, only because I was reading .0012 runout with the spindle>sleeve>arbor arrangement. I figured I would get better concentricity turning between centers for the threaded portion since it is an arbor to be used with a live center. Just trying to get the best result I could achieve :)
PS: I also wanted to try out the Lathe Dog I made on the Lathe a while back...been dying to give it a test run...worked great :)
ohhhhhhhhhhhh i got it lol.see we need you to talk at us .thank you
I would rather have the vocal comments.
Ok Dan, a vote for commentary...just trying to figure out what people like...and dont like....I am not exactly the best narrator :)
If fast forwarding, a little voice over or in video text during the transitions if what you are doing isn't fairly obvious. This one really didn't need much explanation.
Yes, it was pretty straight forward lathe turning. I assume most who watch know whats going on. There are pro's & con's to no narration...I just dont want to bore people with the obvious :)
Like the video but would prefer commentary.
I dont know Andy.....I tend to ramble too much!! LOL Seriously tho, I do try to explain things in later vids for those that prefer commentary :)
I just found your channel and will have a look at your older postings. Personally I like hear the person I am watching. Thanks for the reply
I have a decent mix of machining vids if thats what brought you here...consider subscribing 😊 ~ Richard
my only criticism is you tossing the useless arbor in the trash. Every piece of metal is valuable. At least to me.
Its in my toolbox, never know when I may need a B&S #7 taper ;-)
The thing that most makes me move on is ‘the expert’ giving his or her lengthy introduction & explanation, what I want is to see things being done!
So you have ‘scored’ with me.
Don't throw it away. Make something smaller.
I kept it......Its in my toolbox, it a Brown & Sharp #7 taper. Maybe I will run into someone who needs it :)
Talk or no talk a good video should be short (around 7 min.) and condensed and therefore fast paced. Show only the relevant operations and only for a short time just to make the viewer understand how you did it. There is more good machining videos out there for which your viewers would like to have the time to watch. Their time is precious. If you deliver the same amount of information in a 7 min. video that others deliver in a 15 or 25 min video you will keep and expand your subscribers for sure.
My video making skills leave a lot to be desired....LOL
Requested feedback: They're good either way... so I guess this comment is useless.
:)
Thanks for watching and chiming in...not useless! :)
I'd just as soon hear your yak, yak, yak. More important, leave out any muzak and don't do the high speed. I would like to hear the sounds of the operation being demo'd.
Thanks for the input, plenty of yak, yak, yak in my other vids...thanks for watching and the feedback 😊
Its hard to condense 2-3 hours of video into a segment that is reasonable. Even my best videos have an average watch time of just 50% of the video length....tuff crowds around these parts...LOL
Totally silent is no good, a few comments along the way is best, and yak yak yakking is the worst.
Workin on it! :)
i like the non talking and the talking, so 50:50 for me......
👍🏼 Thanks for the input Peter
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