🇦🇺😎👍Hey mate…I’ve got 3 varmint barrels on my Howas. Personally I prefer the sporters now. Pretty hard to lump around…… Love PPU ❤🏁…A mate of mine loaded his 270 Howa excessively years ago and his primers popped out but wasn’t it accurate 🤣.. I’ve got a Tikka T3x 6.5x55 with a varmint barrel and it’s pretty kind to the shoulder …I’ve heard Swan does a good job. Thanks for another interesting video🏁
Ive got two 270s, an old CMC Mountaineer on its (tobler 24") second barrel & a Rem700 CDL-SF, I used the 130gn SSTs for a few years then converted to a hot 140gn load. If shooting pigs with the 130s keep your velocitys (sub 3000fps) low to get that extra bit of penetration. Personally for a general purpose load, i use 130gn Interlocks pushed out as fast as i can safely, as the interlocks get alot of penetration.
Used the SST’s in the old 270 with really good results. This one also shot those 130 Speer Spitzers well before it all went haywire, so we’ll give them a crack as well.
Being a 270 shooter like your video, 270's bounce around a bit when fired, I found shooting off a medium firm front bag helped groups, a hard rest would result in vertical flyers. Always something to learn. Interested to see your load for Speer 100grn HP, mine is 2208/48grn, 3300fps. This load virtually cuts foxes in half. I do my load development with chronograph, shows any variations in fps that could cause a flyer. My BRNO has been bedded, trigger job by Tony Small, Sightron S2 4-16x42. Out what did a the Swan barrel cost fitted?
The 44.o grains of 2206 is your load. Forget all the blaming yourself for the flyers when you have 2 bullets touching and 1 far away. Load 9 more rounds of the 2206 at 44.0 grains and see if you get repeated good 1/2" 3 shot groups like you did. It helps to clock your velocities also. You sound like you have a lot of good experience and are a good shooter. Thus, I don't think you were causing the flyers. I see this all the time when I'm developing loads and what I have found is one of the main reasons you get a flyer is due to inconsistent neck tension on that one piece of brass in that group.
As I said, I’m not a huge believer in barrel break-in, but I do believe they settle down a bit once they’ve had a few rounds down the tube. It was a big day at the range and I was getting a bit tired and bashed around. Hunting trip soon I’m hoping.
@@2clicksup910 I used to be serious about barrel break in. Then I learned it's not necessary. I agree with you that they do settle down over time, especially the throat. I just picked up two new Tikka rifles and the first thing I do is borescope them. The 270 Stainless had a lot of chatter where the reamer cut the lands so I took some Kroil and swabbed the bore, then to the Iosso paste out and worked the throat really well. Still rough but a bit better. It's going to take about 40 rounds to smooth it up. The throat on any new barrel, be it custom aftermarket or factory need "seasoning" but not necessarily that old shoot and clean process.
@@derekmcmurry found my 17WSM shot all over the shop for about 40 rounds, then it just dialled in no dramas. It’s only a Rimfire, but same principle. Rounds down the tube tend to give it a bit of a hone.
doing a semi custom rem700 with a 270 Win 1/8 twist mtu profile swan barrel cant wait to get it back
🇦🇺😎👍Hey mate…I’ve got 3 varmint barrels on my Howas. Personally I prefer the sporters now. Pretty hard to lump around…… Love PPU ❤🏁…A mate of mine loaded his 270 Howa excessively years ago and his primers popped out but wasn’t it accurate 🤣.. I’ve got a Tikka T3x 6.5x55 with a varmint barrel and it’s pretty kind to the shoulder …I’ve heard Swan does a good job. Thanks for another interesting video🏁
Ive got two 270s, an old CMC Mountaineer on its (tobler 24") second barrel & a Rem700 CDL-SF, I used the 130gn SSTs for a few years then converted to a hot 140gn load. If shooting pigs with the 130s keep your velocitys (sub 3000fps) low to get that extra bit of penetration. Personally for a general purpose load, i use 130gn Interlocks pushed out as fast as i can safely, as the interlocks get alot of penetration.
Used the SST’s in the old 270 with really good results. This one also shot those 130 Speer Spitzers well before it all went haywire, so we’ll give them a crack as well.
@@2clicksup910 other one you could try is the 130gn Sierra pro hunter with the flat base. Sierras are great pill for accuracy and general hunting.
@@tinytedy might be worth a look down the track
Being a 270 shooter like your video, 270's bounce around a bit when fired, I found shooting off a medium firm front bag helped groups, a hard rest would result in vertical flyers.
Always something to learn. Interested to see your load for Speer 100grn HP, mine is 2208/48grn, 3300fps. This load virtually cuts foxes in half.
I do my load development with chronograph, shows any variations in fps that could cause a flyer. My BRNO has been bedded, trigger job by Tony Small, Sightron S2 4-16x42.
Out what did a the Swan barrel cost fitted?
This one may get a new stock a bit down the track, but we’ll see how it goes. It should settle down a bit more with a bit more use.
I did not see part 2 on Speer 100grn, I achieved good accuracy in a sporter barrel 20-30mm groups.
Some of your viewers are unfamiliar with ADI powders and could benefit from North American equivalent stated. Thanks for the info.
Point taken…
The 44.o grains of 2206 is your load. Forget all the blaming yourself for the flyers when you have 2 bullets touching and 1 far away. Load 9 more rounds of the 2206 at 44.0 grains and see if you get repeated good 1/2" 3 shot groups like you did. It helps to clock your velocities also. You sound like you have a lot of good experience and are a good shooter. Thus, I don't think you were causing the flyers. I see this all the time when I'm developing loads and what I have found is one of the main reasons you get a flyer is due to inconsistent neck tension on that one piece of brass in that group.
As I said, I’m not a huge believer in barrel break-in, but I do believe they settle down a bit once they’ve had a few rounds down the tube. It was a big day at the range and I was getting a bit tired and bashed around. Hunting trip soon I’m hoping.
@@2clicksup910 I used to be serious about barrel break in. Then I learned it's not necessary. I agree with you that they do settle down over time, especially the throat. I just picked up two new Tikka rifles and the first thing I do is borescope them. The 270 Stainless had a lot of chatter where the reamer cut the lands so I took some Kroil and swabbed the bore, then to the Iosso paste out and worked the throat really well. Still rough but a bit better. It's going to take about 40 rounds to smooth it up. The throat on any new barrel, be it custom aftermarket or factory need "seasoning" but not necessarily that old shoot and clean process.
@@derekmcmurry found my 17WSM shot all over the shop for about 40 rounds, then it just dialled in no dramas. It’s only a Rimfire, but same principle. Rounds down the tube tend to give it a bit of a hone.