much effort and time spend - not in vain but simply to learn. I hope that the next one will work out a lot better - even though I am not a canard guy, but a long distance fpv guy regarding planes. Thanks a lot.
I've made some kind of small free flight cannard glider made of sticks and plastic bags cut into sheets and it flew ok. I think you should add a dihedral to the main wings and maybe move them back a bit :)
I recently made a Santos Dumont 14 bis canard. I had similar trimming problems to you. It is free flight and flies ok now. I think getting the c of g right as well as the decalage is the key. I’m not sure where the rudder and fin should go, front or back or both. There’s not much info about model canards. I don’t think knocking up a foamie is conducive to success. I think the c of g needs to be about 1 wing chord in front of the main plane. At least that was my starting point. The trouble is the plane at the front is rather susceptible to damage on landing. My starting decalage was 3 degrees. I think dihedral is important if you want to guide with rudder. It’s quite a challenge.
Sometimes having a landing gear and playing with some taxi maneuvers and "fake" ROG (run off the ground; take offs) can lead you in the right direction before actually trying to fly it the first time. I have a lot of fun with this kind of foam and UHU-Por glue. Never used a wooden spar to reinforce the wing though, I do it with strips of the same foam, light, flexible yet strong.
Error. The canard must always be at a more positive angle than the main wing. 2 or 3 degrees. This assures the canard stalls before the main wing. Additionally, the canard must have a higher wing loading. Your crash on the end was because the main wing stalled first (got to the angle of atack that it lost laminar flow). You made no flights with the CG far enough forward and no flights with the canard positive to the wing. Try again but put the wing at zero and the canard plus 3 degrees and overload it slightly. Math. Get busy.
The foreplane should have an airfoil with at least the same relative thickness as the main wing and slightly more camber than the main wing. And you probably need a bit more vertical tail area. I walked around a Long-Eze several times when I designed my canard plane.
Maybe your airplane goes into flat spin because of some issues with stabilzer. I think main problem was that it was behind the wings and in front of propeller. Wings creates some vortexes and make rudder less effective, and propeller simply drag some air from rudder and stabilizer, and makes it even more ineffective. Maybe it would be a good idea to make a bigger rudder, or make two and place them on wingtips, like on real canard airplanes like XP-55 Ascender or J7W Shinden. I hope it will help you, because your airplane looks really great! P.S. And also, as some commenters already said, try to move center of gravity forward
I think the wooden (heavy) wing spar was his primal "sin"... I always use strips of the same foam to build up the wing spars, they are light, strong enough, flexible and forgiving.
@@Joyplanes I never use wooden wing spars on my "experiments" I build-up wing spars using the same foam; light, flexible, forgiving. I have even has success with creating "flex points" on the spar (using less foam or orienting it in a different direction). I don´t know if you´ve noticed but that foam bend more in one direction that at 90º... I use it for my advantage.
I'm thinking the angle of the main wing should be neutral and a slight positive angle on the canard or neutral angle on the canard and slight negative angle on the main with . Just think of the whole plane backwards. Normal configuration is positive angle on the main wing therefore opposite for canard . great video
I've found canards need 0 deg incedence main wing with slight reflex in the airfoil and about 2 to 3 deg incedence on the canard. I always look at the canard as a flying wing that's nose heavy so you lift the nose up. So if you're nose heavy add canard wing area not incedence for lift. If tail heavy take canard wing area away.
We need a tutorial video on how is your plane design process, taking into account mass, propeller size, type of motor, control surfaces, etc. Like a peek on your mind when designing a plane from scratch. Im trying to design my first plane to get me into the hobby, and im completely lost! What size of plane should i aim for? Size of propeller, Motor caracteristics, wing design, Batery caracteristics, general aerodynamic design tricks and tips. That would be a helpfull video! Thanks for all the content already on your channel! It is very inspirational and entretaining.
Designing your first plane is not a good idea. ua-cam.com/video/rZ6QeVQvP18/v-deo.html This is an amazing first plane, easy to build and pretty strong. Forgiving, gentle flight characteristics.
It looks from the video that the canard stalls later than the main wing. So there are two main design decission that has to happen for a canard to fly well and safe: 1. Carefull determin the CG location - It's not easy as it depemds on how much lift the canard adds. And that does not depend only on canard wing area - becouse of point 2 below. 2. Canard wing NEED to stall first before the main wing. In this way the plane will nose down in case of loose of list.
This material is great for RC because it is inexpensive (in Portugal, that is)and it can really take a beating !! Most of my models were made of this. easy to repair with UHU Por glue (use it like contact glue), easy to modify and if you do it right it will be very protective of the electronics on board (ask me how I know :-) )
I have done a custom canard project (Ladyhawke) and was very successful. Here is the link to the series ua-cam.com/play/PLrFvuikMh7V8gdJs12ytpvqd8KaJ8My05.html After looking at your video, may I make some possible suggestions that may assist your next attempt. 1. Put sweep in the wings and vertical stabs on the tips. This will put the Aerodynamic Center of the vertical stab further back from the neutral point and provide better straight line tracking. Alternatively extend the fuse a bit more rearward before mounting the vertical stab/rudder and also put rake in it as it will do the same as tip fins. 2. Use a thinner airfoil section and bigger wingspan. Increase the distance between the wing and Canard to decease pitch sensitivity. 3. I cannot quite see the motor offset but the Centerline of the shaft will need to pass through the planes longitudinal CG point so as not to push the nose down, which in part could be happening to you. Just my thoughts, all the best Allen
i tried a balsa stick and foam canard hand launch one...total failure . I find those the most difficult to build even with a proven design. good luck !
Cool video! I use packing paper to reinforce the foam board which is also the one that is used for the floor insulation. I glue it with PVA glue. Btw, what is the book called that you used to calculate CG?
I never use anything to "reinforce" the foam, only use it for the hinges of the control surfaces. The material is so light that I "over-engineer" things. To find the C of G, I normally do a "sillouette" version of the planes (in that foam) and play with some tape and coins at various locations to achieve a decent CG with some hand-throws. I always use a landing gear for the first trials... I don´t mind crashing (it happens 70% of the times, my nickname is "Crash Santos") but I try not to bruise my Ego...You see, there´s a method to my madness... :-) Cheers !
@@Joyplanes To find the C of G, I normally do a "sillouette" version of the planes (in that foam) and play with some tape and coins at various locations to achieve a decent CG with some hand-throws
I’ve made some canards (experimental airlines style), some were even Frankenplanes. Some flew great...most had AoA issues among other problems. Canards never gave me as many flyable planes as other builds, I’ve probably done the most of flying wings. I never had good result from active canard surfaces, the only ones that flew were fixed canards.
Hey guys here's an open invitation to participate in a virtual Fun Fly in Real Flight Multiplayer field "Montana Madness" every Tuesday night 9pm-10:15pm. It's a lot of fun with RC pilots from all over the world. Spread the word.
at 5:41, this planform is INHERENTLY tail-Heavy. consequently, EVERYTHING should be done to limit any MORE tail-heaviness. said another way, the Mass, of servos should be located as far forward, as is practical. at 6:51, AFT-located servo equals WHY!!!!!!! this servo could be located ANYWHERE.!!!!! as could the elevator servo be. googletranslate
I thinh the wood spar on the wing was the major fault of the build. I always do mine using foam strips to laminate and shape them to the desired profile
information. at 4:28, a wing should have a Main spar; located at THIRTY percent of chord.!!! consequently, the main spar Should result in the wing profile being Thickest, near Thirty percent of chord.!!!! the completed airfoil/profile does NOT have an optimally shaped, lower leading edge.!!!!! (compare clark-y) wingtips SHOULD be Finished.!!!!!! there should NOT be a 'step' an the underside of the main wing.!!!!!!! googletranslate
at 8:00, cg is ALWAYS at THIRTY percent of chord (or mac).!!!! it appears that you did not support the model at the WING. if not, then you have NO idea where the cg is, now. all you boys are so under-informed. you seem to be relying on some wonky lift-making theories, while not having any idea what you are doing.!!!!! googletranslate
That's incorrect, for canard planes the CG can not be measured as a regular configuration plane... Dude I literally showed a well-known aerodynamics book showing that and I said why.
@@daviddavids2884 I need to you do something for me. I need you to find the nearest scrabble set, get all of the pieces with letters on them, and eat them all. Then, find the strongest laxatives that you can and consume them. Then when you've shat out a bunch of scrabble letters, make your next reply what they say Because that will probably make more sense than anything you will ever say intentionally.
In Cannard models the CG is not anywhere on the MAC. There is no point calculating MAC for his wing as it was rectangular in planform. This is only useful for Trapezoidal or tapered swept back (or forward) wings. In Cannards the CG is often forward of the main wing or close to the leading edge at the root chord.
much effort and time spend - not in vain but simply to learn.
I hope that the next one will work out a lot better - even though I am not a canard guy, but a long distance fpv guy regarding planes. Thanks a lot.
I learned a bit more, as always! Thanks for the comment
I've made some kind of small free flight cannard glider made of sticks and plastic bags cut into sheets and it flew ok. I think you should add a dihedral to the main wings and maybe move them back a bit :)
You need upright winglets,at the end of the large wing.
I recently made a Santos Dumont 14 bis canard. I had similar trimming problems to you. It is free flight and flies ok now. I think getting the c of g right as well as the decalage is the key. I’m not sure where the rudder and fin should go, front or back or both. There’s not much info about model canards. I don’t think knocking up a foamie is conducive to success. I think the c of g needs to be about 1 wing chord in front of the main plane. At least that was my starting point. The trouble is the plane at the front is rather susceptible to damage on landing. My starting decalage was 3 degrees. I think dihedral is important if you want to guide with rudder. It’s quite a challenge.
Sometimes having a landing gear and playing with some taxi maneuvers and "fake" ROG (run off the ground; take offs) can lead you in the right direction before actually trying to fly it the first time. I have a lot of fun with this kind of foam and UHU-Por glue. Never used a wooden spar to reinforce the wing though, I do it with strips of the same foam, light, flexible yet strong.
Error. The canard must always be at a more positive angle than the main wing. 2 or 3 degrees. This assures the canard stalls before the main wing. Additionally, the canard must have a higher wing loading. Your crash on the end was because the main wing stalled first (got to the angle of atack that it lost laminar flow). You made no flights with the CG far enough forward and no flights with the canard positive to the wing. Try again but put the wing at zero and the canard plus 3 degrees and overload it slightly. Math. Get busy.
The foreplane should have an airfoil with at least the same relative thickness as the main wing and slightly more camber than the main wing. And you probably need a bit more vertical tail area. I walked around a Long-Eze several times when I designed my canard plane.
Thanks!
And the incidence angle of the foreplane should be a little higher than that of the main wing, maybe 2-3 degrees.
@@Snobiker13 Some people have told me the same, I'll take that for the next one.
Maybe your airplane goes into flat spin because of some issues with stabilzer. I think main problem was that it was behind the wings and in front of propeller. Wings creates some vortexes and make rudder less effective, and propeller simply drag some air from rudder and stabilizer, and makes it even more ineffective. Maybe it would be a good idea to make a bigger rudder, or make two and place them on wingtips, like on real canard airplanes like XP-55 Ascender or J7W Shinden. I hope it will help you, because your airplane looks really great!
P.S. And also, as some commenters already said, try to move center of gravity forward
Thank you for your comment, I'll take this as advice.
I think the wooden (heavy) wing spar was his primal "sin"... I always use strips of the same foam to build up the wing spars, they are light, strong enough, flexible and forgiving.
@@Joyplanes I never use wooden wing spars on my "experiments" I build-up wing spars using the same foam; light, flexible, forgiving. I have even has success with creating "flex points" on the spar (using less foam or orienting it in a different direction). I don´t know if you´ve noticed but that foam bend more in one direction that at 90º... I use it for my advantage.
I'm thinking the angle of the main wing should be neutral and a slight positive angle on the canard or neutral angle on the canard and slight negative angle on the main with . Just think of the whole plane backwards. Normal configuration is positive angle on the main wing therefore opposite for canard . great video
I've found canards need 0 deg incedence main wing with slight reflex in the airfoil and about 2 to 3 deg incedence on the canard. I always look at the canard as a flying wing that's nose heavy so you lift the nose up. So if you're nose heavy add canard wing area not incedence for lift. If tail heavy take canard wing area away.
If you want to see how to build planes with XPS foam, then I'd recommend watching NumaVIG's build videos.
Numa Vig 🤩
My first was from him. Still cry when I remember the beauty.
We need a tutorial video on how is your plane design process, taking into account mass, propeller size, type of motor, control surfaces, etc. Like a peek on your mind when designing a plane from scratch.
Im trying to design my first plane to get me into the hobby, and im completely lost! What size of plane should i aim for? Size of propeller, Motor caracteristics, wing design, Batery caracteristics, general aerodynamic design tricks and tips.
That would be a helpfull video!
Thanks for all the content already on your channel! It is very inspirational and entretaining.
Designing your first plane is not a good idea.
ua-cam.com/video/rZ6QeVQvP18/v-deo.html
This is an amazing first plane, easy to build and pretty strong. Forgiving, gentle flight characteristics.
It looks from the video that the canard stalls later than the main wing.
So there are two main design decission that has to happen for a canard to fly well and safe:
1. Carefull determin the CG location - It's not easy as it depemds on how much lift the canard adds. And that does not depend only on canard wing area - becouse of point 2 below.
2. Canard wing NEED to stall first before the main wing. In this way the plane will nose down in case of loose of list.
I guess you need more sweep to the main wing. And forget the rudder.
But nice Video. Sometimes you learn more from mistakes than from sucsess.👍🙂
Kinda similar to a flying wing. Sweep = stability
Don't give up. Mistakes and crashes are part of the game. 😅👍
It would be boring without.
Best wishes from Bavaria. 🇩🇪
This material is great for RC because it is inexpensive (in Portugal, that is)and it can really take a beating !! Most of my models were made of this. easy to repair with UHU Por glue (use it like contact glue), easy to modify and if you do it right it will be very protective of the electronics on board (ask me how I know :-) )
Next time, try a swept wing with vert stabilizers at tips. no rudder needed.
2:40 That looks and sounds like Depron. I bet it's 6mm thick ;)
Millions of plans to be found for 6mm Depron.
I have done a custom canard project (Ladyhawke) and was very successful. Here is the link to the series ua-cam.com/play/PLrFvuikMh7V8gdJs12ytpvqd8KaJ8My05.html After looking at your video, may I make some possible suggestions that may assist your next attempt. 1. Put sweep in the wings and vertical stabs on the tips. This will put the Aerodynamic Center of the vertical stab further back from the neutral point and provide better straight line tracking. Alternatively extend the fuse a bit more rearward before mounting the vertical stab/rudder and also put rake in it as it will do the same as tip fins. 2. Use a thinner airfoil section and bigger wingspan. Increase the distance between the wing and Canard to decease pitch sensitivity. 3. I cannot quite see the motor offset but the Centerline of the shaft will need to pass through the planes longitudinal CG point so as not to push the nose down, which in part could be happening to you. Just my thoughts, all the best Allen
Vertical stabiliser area is not enough
What saw horse design are you using for the legs of your work table?
Looks very adjustable.
i tried a balsa stick and foam canard hand launch one...total failure . I find those the most difficult to build even with a proven design. good luck !
I have had several Canards, none of them were very successful. My favourite was a control line aircraft, just because it looked so peculiar.
Cool video! I use packing paper to reinforce the foam board which is also the one that is used for the floor insulation. I glue it with PVA glue. Btw, what is the book called that you used to calculate CG?
The book is model aircraft aerodynamics amzn.to/2Qgi39l but it doesn't show the calculations, it just explains a bit how stability works.
I never use anything to "reinforce" the foam, only use it for the hinges of the control surfaces. The material is so light that I "over-engineer" things. To find the C of G, I normally do a "sillouette" version of the planes (in that foam) and play with some tape and coins at various locations to achieve a decent CG with some hand-throws. I always use a landing gear for the first trials... I don´t mind crashing (it happens 70% of the times, my nickname is "Crash Santos") but I try not to bruise my Ego...You see, there´s a method to my madness... :-) Cheers !
@@Joyplanes To find the C of G, I normally do a "sillouette" version of the planes (in that foam) and play with some tape and coins at various locations to achieve a decent CG with some hand-throws
Hi I'm a kid as far as I know rudder that is kept high is not recommended. That's why the flitetest viggen doesn't have a rudder control
I’ve made some canards (experimental airlines style), some were even Frankenplanes.
Some flew great...most had AoA issues among other problems.
Canards never gave me as many flyable planes as other builds, I’ve probably done the most of flying wings.
I never had good result from active canard surfaces, the only ones that flew were fixed canards.
An all moving foreplane is good only if you have a statically unstable aircraft like the Wright Flyer One or a Gripen.
+1 to replace Autodesk Fusion 360 with open-source FreeCAD!!!
Bro pls explain your long range setup
Do u have the design in dwg File?...
Can I build the begginers trainer rc areoplane out of cardboard?
I think so, I haven't tried it myself
Can you make a video brushlles motors and and wich propeller to use
At some point I'll make one.
Hey guys here's an open invitation to participate in a virtual Fun Fly in Real Flight Multiplayer field "Montana Madness" every Tuesday night 9pm-10:15pm. It's a lot of fun with RC pilots from all over the world. Spread the word.
This your airplane, should have delta wing dude.
Buen video!
Brother please make an aerobatic stunt plane
better than i could make a trainer haha😂
Please make a RC car using bldc drone motor
Burt Routan (spelling?) did it best with his light aircraft. Look at some of those.
Awesome 😍😍😍 please make a video on how to design this in fusion and autocad.
Sure 😊
YOOOOO I only can find this xps foam I'm my country but no white foam board
i just made the the storch.
Make a guinea pig using a2212
ciao... ok... dall' italia
Good try bro intresting talk
You greet me, I come from the Spanish channel
Me saludas vengo del canal en español
Hola
@@Joyplanes hola
See the video on pecore nere Chanel we make canard in 2 size 1 Meter and 1,5 meter
Hi
Hi
First
at 5:41, this planform is INHERENTLY tail-Heavy. consequently, EVERYTHING should be done to limit any MORE tail-heaviness. said another way, the Mass, of servos should be located as far forward, as is practical. at 6:51, AFT-located servo equals WHY!!!!!!! this servo could be located ANYWHERE.!!!!! as could the elevator servo be. googletranslate
I thinh the wood spar on the wing was the major fault of the build. I always do mine using foam strips to laminate and shape them to the desired profile
information. at 4:28, a wing should have a Main spar; located at THIRTY percent of chord.!!! consequently, the main spar Should result in the wing profile being Thickest, near Thirty percent of chord.!!!! the completed airfoil/profile does NOT have an optimally shaped, lower leading edge.!!!!! (compare clark-y) wingtips SHOULD be Finished.!!!!!! there should NOT be a 'step' an the underside of the main wing.!!!!!!! googletranslate
About the "step" I still think you should check out Kfm airfoils...
at 5:00, SHOULD be a EP prop. Electric Pusher
Find a way to move the vertical stab further back and don't use a rudder.
at 5:41, is that the Best wing you can make??? sad
at 8:00, cg is ALWAYS at THIRTY percent of chord (or mac).!!!! it appears that you did not support the model at the WING. if not, then you have NO idea where the cg is, now. all you boys are so under-informed. you seem to be relying on some wonky lift-making theories, while not having any idea what you are doing.!!!!! googletranslate
That's incorrect, for canard planes the CG can not be measured as a regular configuration plane... Dude I literally showed a well-known aerodynamics book showing that and I said why.
@@Joyplanes ignore this guy. Doesnt seem to know what hes talking about with all his other shitty comments
@@Joyplanes dude, you are fos. this model crashed because it was just one more of your flawed design disasters.
@@daviddavids2884
I need to you do something for me.
I need you to find the nearest scrabble set, get all of the pieces with letters on them, and eat them all.
Then, find the strongest laxatives that you can and consume them.
Then when you've shat out a bunch of scrabble letters, make your next reply what they say
Because that will probably make more sense than anything you will ever say intentionally.
In Cannard models the CG is not anywhere on the MAC. There is no point calculating MAC for his wing as it was rectangular in planform. This is only useful for Trapezoidal or tapered swept back (or forward) wings. In Cannards the CG is often forward of the main wing or close to the leading edge at the root chord.
Hi