Back in the 80's early 90's i would do a head gasket and drive it another 200 don't have much knowledge on the newer ones think the durability has slacked off some ! Reason being i drove a 86 Accord! My farther bought it as a work car with 63k gave it to me with 186k i drove it untill it had 286k gave it to brother it only need a rack pinion ! The whole time it always used a half a quart of oil every oil change never more never less !
No.. because of the head gasket is to the point it doesn’t start the engine was ran with water in the oil. They can deck the block/head and rebuild it but without doing the bottom end that will shoot a rod out thru the girdle and side of the block..
I'd agree, but I would talk to them about potential wear and maybe running some tests to see what kinda shape the rest of the motor is in. There are a lot of factors involved in something like that and it's better to know if it's worth fixing instead of getting a new engine. If it overheated, a new head gasket isn't gonna last very long if the head got warped.
Need more info. 1) Have the oil changes been done and what quality of oil has been used? 2) Has the crank been sitting & running in chocolate milk shake for a while? 3) Does inside the valve cover have that burnt smell? Mileage is a consideration, but if the customer has taken care of this vehicle, you should be able to get away with a head gasket and resurface.
Well they can just replace the head gasket and tell them they pulled the motor and the customer won't know the difference since it'll run for another 200k miles as long as they didn't crack the block... 100% head gasket.. this is why mechanics are the worst type of doctors out there, they're the biggest scammers on planet earth
@@jlo7770bro if your engine needed only a head gasket, I would tell you. However sometimes we have to tear down an engine which isn't free, so we can figure out if it needs a head gasket or an engine. And if it needs an engine, I would show you what's damaged about it and why it needs a new engine. Not all mechanics are bad. Please stop giving all of us a bad name when some of us are good. It hurts the good mechanics.
@@aperson4713 you're right not all of you are bad but per capita... theres more shady mechanics than good ones. I'm considering taking a truck 700 miles to have a shop work on it vs risking local scum bags touching it. But let's be real here. If you're at the head gasket you got the motor tore down half way. You can see a lot of it to see if the block is cracked or not. I don't understand why in a million years this scum bag is saying should we offer them the 500$ fix or the 5000$ fix? It's a 4 cyl Asian made motor. It's at half life its like those vw tdi motors or most every other diesel. It's just disingenuous. What a decent mech, should say is... "we think it's a head gasket but we're really not sure, we'll have to pull the head and see, the block could have cracked you could have bent a rod if a ton of coolant went in the cylinder, we don't know till we start pulling stuff apart" this guy is saying the same shit and than saying "or we could just not bother looking at your motor at all and we can just replace the whole motor"
Yup he doesn't waist time & finds great solutions to technical problems. I don't know how many times I've done a HD gasket when it should've gotten an engine no new timing belt no new wp ,head didn't go to machine shop it's ridiculous I said to bosses that it's not our problem whether or not they can afford the work it's like that's what it's going to cost they either have it or they don't. Smaller jobs im ok with a break but when you tear a head off there shouldn't be much of a discounted price
Mechanics its called an engine assessment please note for future reference do a compression test then send an oil sample out to the lab to check the metal content then check all cylinder walls with a camera and check for blow by then check for thrust play at the crankshaft also I would take the valve cover off and check for oil sludge to make sure the engine has been maintained if all checks out I would sell only the full headGasket service.
Being a mechanic myself and seeing this first hand, I would say it depends on how the bottom end is. If it’s running good with no issues, no knocking or metallic in the oil, AND if there isn’t any coolant in the oil (exhaust side blown) then replace the head gasket, service the head and let it go. However, if there is coolant in the oil, I would recommend a bottom end overhaul (rods and mains at minimum) or talk about an engine replacement.
@quentinnash7194 take the oil pan off and take each main bearing cap off one by one checking the clearance. Same with the big end bearings. If they are within tolerance put the pan back on and your done. Havent had to remove the engine or gearbox which has saved time in labour.
isn't there a way to send a sample of the oil in for testing? when I was in the military they had us send off an oil sample to be tested. i don't know much about it, but I think it was to analyze how much very fine metal particles were in it.
Replace the head gaskets. I had a blown head gasket and the shop said that i needed a new motor. I replaced the head gaskets, timing chain and oil pump. Now i have 488,000 miles on that same motor. Same rings pistons same valves and it runs great. 1976 Dodge D100 5.2L or 318.
I was in this same situation the cost for pulling my engine to replaced head gaskets and checking my heads for cracks was close to the cost of a new factory replacement engine. Labor is a killer!
I can’t vouch for today, but I was a Honda mechanic back in the early 80’s. The guys that did this sort of thing there, never removed the engine from the car. But they had everything they needed to get to all the bolts, brackets and such, and support the engine block. Still it saved a lot of time.
Do a compression test and see what the non hurt cylinders hold. If they all leak down go with a new engine but if hold good compression it might be worth taking a chance on a head gasket.
I would listen for knocks too, depending on what kind of gauge you use (some keep the needle at the highest reading until reset for solo testing) you can get a false sense of average compression with a gauge that freezes the highest reading. Something like early piston slap or rod knock could be missed if you aren't looking for it. Lifter tick, Rod knock and (early) Piston slap are knocking sounds misable with a compression test. Of course it's important to rule out detonation, but in my experience detonation isn't all too consistent in most cases. It goes away with proper operating temperatures, but that's not something I'm as well versed in to be fair.
Honda Tech for the last 25 years. Put a head gasket on it and it will run fine with one caveat. Will have an oil consumption issue guaranteed. The cooling fans are a common failure on that vehicle and has most likely been overheated. Blown head gaskets are not common on the K24 without an overheating condition. It's motor time or junk yard time.
@justins1917 id say you're typically doing new timing components while you're there too. Maybe motor mounts, water pump. Wouldn't make sense to only do a bare minimum job. So you're looking at like 3-5k but I'd rather have all that with some arp hardware and I'd improbable have to do something with the heads while they're off..
Kyle, I think this is the correct answer. Because of Honda’s high reliability, sometimes maintenance is spotty at best. I doubt this vehicle was wondrously maintained. I think Dave will have to simply describe in detail to the customer what needs to be done. If the body is rusty, then the car is scrap.
@lukek1949 The cost of repairing a vehicle that old generally does not make sense for someone who has to pay to have it done. Vehicles like that usually end up being mechanic specials if the bodies are okay.
Transperancy is hard in the auto industry. His question derived based on what news would benefit the shop most. Offering both options would benefit the customer most. 🤷♂️
@@kelsycunningham8452that’s the dumbest thing I’ve ever heard. Yeah just replace it with a new car since they are so cheap nowadays. 5k or $60k…. Tough call.
@@kelsycunningham8452I've driven 30K so far on a salvage engine and rebuilt transmission. I spent about$3000, which was a lot more affordable than a new truck. But my truck is 25 years old.
Honda 4 cylinder w/ no turbo. Just fix whats wrong and do timing kit ez job too so labor shouldn't bee that bad. I know ez honda techs that do that in a matter of an afternoon after work.
I bought a Ecoboost boost mustang that had a blown head gasket. Warranty tried to only do the gasket but the bottom end turned out to be shot. Shop tried to tell warranty company but they opted to do just the head gaske, they ended up having to do the whole engine and had to pay the shop for both jobs!
Head gasket on that engine should cost 100 max in parts and 100 max in labour. For a good shop that will get good discounts on parts and a good tool kit, 50 in parts and 50 in labour, any more and you are getting ripped off!!
After new head gasket,a compression test to see Whats going on, then new belts, a twin turbo, a 200 hp nitrous kit, a huge wing and you are good to go.
Worked in a Honda shop for 6 years before I got my engineering degree. You have to boil the shit out of a K series to get it to blow a head gasket. The D and Bs sometimes did it on their own, but I’ve never seen one go bad on a K that wasn’t a result of the owner.
@@remarkablehairdo3110 yup. You can do a D or a B head gasket in 4 hours. The few bad head gaskets on a K I did see, we ended up just putting a motor in it for cheaper than doing the head gasket unless it was a low mileage car. I don’t think these had as much clamping force on the head gasket like the higher revving versions, but my money would still be on a manufacturer defect or the owner overheated the motor to oblivion but was too embarrassed to mention it. Seen a few of those cases. Worse one was a guy who lived about an hour away. The oil light came on in his accord, so rather than check it he chose to drive an hour to the shop. Didn’t even have 1/4 of a quart in it. Dumping the oil filter looked like I was pouring out anti seize.
I was just revising head gasket failure diagnosis methods, starting from a coolant leak on a diesel. Besides the chemical testers, this is by far the easiest, cheapest and fastest test method that I had absolutely, completely forgotten about! THANK YOU so much!
As a fellow trade biz owner, this west we do Ava how I train my techs. 1) Educate the customer on the diagnosis & what the findings were. 2) Present the options - in their case head gasket or rebuild. * answer any and all questions they may have 3) Let them decide what is best for them/their budget etc. We don’t do the hard sales shit. Educate. Present options. Let them decide. It’s their money.
Check cylinder compression and see if it's holding at 150 psi or low end 125 psi. If it's holding compression, change the head gasket and let the customer know those options of a rebuild. Make sure Dave that you check the flatness on both the block and heads, make sure the valves are still good at seating, then go with what customer states.
Exactly, you could have very well worn down camshaft bearings, or a really messed up piston oil retaining ring in a cylinder... you never know. Tell them everything, then decide where to go from there.
@@charliesnodgrass67886 grand to do a motor sounds pretty believable. 3 for a head gasket is crazy, but I wouldn't really know as I do all work myself. On that engine you can probably do head gasket mounted without issue. You do have to consider that to rebuild the engine you gotta take it out of the car, which by itself is probably a days worth to take out + day to put back, then do many hundreds of dollars of gaskets, piston rings, bearings, valves, cam work. Its easily a week worth of work, whereas a head gasket can be done by 1 knowledgeable person in less than 2 days. Maybe 1 if they start early in the morning. Personally since its not really a high-performance vehicleI would just do the head gasket and keep in mind that it is a 200kmi car, and not drive it like I'm in Fast and Furious. Those Japanese engines last forever if you do oil changes at no more than 3500mi.
And when this headgasket leak was discovered! If they have been slowly compensating for this loss in cooling and power, who knows where the problems could arise in the future. Sure, maybe a new headgasket job could get this car another 100k. But if they want it to do 300k then maybe rebuild it.
I would check both the cylinder head and engine block surfaces. That means, I would get tear down time approved first. I would also find out if this engine had any oil consumption issues. If measurements are within spec and there are no oil consumption issues; I would just quote a head gasket service.
idk what you mean lmao. engines aint the problem its the transmission. i have a dodge thats been through 6 trannys and the engines at 580k miles. my 2010 sxt is at 340k miles og trans and engine. though as you could guess theyre rusted to hell
@flameonhood most lineups include good and bad engines. As a tech that started in the industry I can say that the Chrysler conglomerate has made some terrible engines in the last two decades. Remember they don't make Cummins. . .
@@flameonhoodI got a 07 ram in mint condition lots of goodys and no rust 110,000 miles, my work truck is a 2016 ram 2500 gasser with 300,000 miles no rust all original no goodys. Dodge is much better than it was in 80s n 90s
Ive been in this exact situation as a customer and they did a head gasket. It was a nightmare. The car blew the replacement head gasket and then I paid parts for a 3rd one plus machining the head and that one blew too. The car was finally repaired when I pulled the engine out myself, stripped it down to a bare block, replaced the head and had the block decked. The machine shop told me the block deck flatness was at 0.010" before they decked it. Tolerance was .002" for that block (Honda F22b2). I replaced the head too and put it back together. The block was warped and you could see funky wear on the main bearings too. Ran fine after that. What happens when you tear the whole thing down inspect it and the block is out of tolerance and you gotta do an engine anyways? Its one thing if you're doing that on your own time but not on the customers dime. Absolutely, talk about doing an engine, especially if it was overheated the head and block are probably warped and its got 200k? Waste of time and the customers money to just do a heagasket and hope for the best. It will cost more up front, but a lot less risk of problems. The one silver lining of that situation is I taught myself to become a damn good home mechanic and Im restoring an old Toyota with the skills I learned.
Correct answer is pull the head to check for flatness and examine the piston walls. Ask about any smoking or engine noises. If they look good, do the head gasket. If it needs more than a head gasket, do the engine.
I have owned a couple of Hondas and they are pretty darn tough. I done a head gasket replacement on 2.2 vtec with just over 200,000 without doing anything with the bottom end. I put another 100,000 on it and it still ran great with no issues. I may have just been lucky, but it was always reliable.
The K series engines are different than the H22. Due to the VTC system on the K series, you aren't supposed to resurface the head. If the head or block is not flat, you have to replace the head or block. The open deck design also means they will crack, damage the piston skirts and cylinder walls once overheated. It is easier and cheaper to just replace it with another good used engine. There are tons of K24a around in the junk yard and the labour would actually be less for a engine replacement than a head job
Can a visual inspection of the cross hatching at least visually determine if it just needs the gasket or overhaul? I know it’s not precise, but you can generally get an idea of where in tear, more or less that way.
@@Tsunseyu most shops dont want to take the time to pull out torque wrenches and spec sheets.. Its easier and cheaper for them to swap a motor.. To me the fun is in the build.. ive done multiple head gasket jobs over the years.. if the gasket is a felt gasket, you are more than likely ok.. if its a Multi Layer steel gasket then send the head to the machince shop to get it inspected or at the least check it with a mechanics straight edge and a feeler guage.. The felt will blow out and cause compression loss.. a MLS gasket will warp heads,and cause cracks, etc.. I only use Fel-Pro head gaskets.. and always replace head bolts..
As a Mechanic and shop owner of 48 years it is my humble opinion that you should put both options on the table giving the customer the Pro’s and Con’s and their consequences and let the customer make the decision. Factors such as the overall condition of the engine will play into your recommendations and strategy
@@shadetreemech290The mechanic should give all viable options so the customer can choose one. Note: there can be 0 or more viable options. That assessment is for the mechanic to make.
My thoughts exactly! A twenty something with a new family may only be able to afford the bandaid but will spring for the next more expensive option OR say scrap it the body is rusted out and we will figure out. Been in that position before.
Compression test with a blown head gasket? I mean, maybe but in the thought of head gasket or new engine I'd say the information is useless. It's getting opened up anyways so go from there
It would depend on a bunch of variables 1- cost effectiveness for the customer. And what kind of mechanics you have in your shop. Can they do it in record time? Can you get a used new engine for a decent price ? 2 - what’s the condition of the vehicle? If we do a head gasket are there going to be other parts that will need to be replaced on the way in and or put, and do they or we have enough money to cover these things gs? 3-what’s the fastest turn around time? 4 -what’s readily available? I always try to push for a new (used)motor. Less time on the street (as I am now a mobile mechnic) less to go wrong and build a tab 90% of the time faster then a head job because you don’t have turn around time from the machine shop. And no added problems that you won’t hear amount until the machine shop is finished testing. Just my two cents.
Do a compression check. It'll tell you which cylinder has the blow, and the other 3 cylinders will tell you how well the cylinders rings have been performing overall. That is how you know what to do
@@DMcElfresh101 The blown head gasket is almost always on a cylinder. This is because the gasket thins where a water jacket port is located. The compression check of the remaining cylinders tell you how well the rings are performing in the engine, overall. If the compression in the nonfailed cylinders is relatively good, you know based on the miles on the engine, that simply resealing the engine heads may be a viable option. If compression is severely lacking, then you know this engine is a good candidate for rebuild/replacement. Without proper testing you really don't know anything, and these simple tests can give you real data to make informed decisions from. There are other tests you can do like oil pressure, but on a modern engine this doesn't always tell you what you want it to, like how well the journals are seating to the bushings. Oil gets used on modern engines to control aspects of timing that can give your errors in your tests. The compression test also lets you know if valve seats may be damaged if the cylinders look fine after disassembly for the head gasket. Then, you can inspect valve seats and valve bodies and make informed choices at that time. The reason you worry about failed rings and valve train isn't because the gasket between your head and engine deck is leaking coolant, it is because the coolant has water in it that can make steam and steam can make the engine operate at pressures it was not designed for and can cause lots of components to be irreparable and requiring replacement.
And then when the customer buys it, that is called a sale. The service or item has been sold. Not sure why you're using quotation marks like that, as though "selling stuff" isn't real.
@@icankillbugs Your job as a mechanic is to diagnose and present the customer OPTIONS. It's not to just throw the highest priced fix at them, but go on and show the world how your job is ripping people off. Again, mechanics are not salesmen. It's really not difficult to understand.
No way! Toyotas never break. My uncle had a Siena that he drove for 400,000 miles. The hood had never been popped so they had to pry it open to do the first oil change. That was 800,000 miles ago and he thinks he can make it another 200,000 before he has to change the oil for the second time. He got worried about maybe needing brakes or tires but the mechanic found that he actually had thicker pads and deeper tread than it came with when new! Original pads and tires!
@@AlphanumericCharacters who the hell would wait 200k-400k miles to replace the oil? The long chains of hydrocarbons break down into smaller ones overtime making the oil thinner and thinner
Offer both. Start with we think the ideal solution is replacing the engine with a rebuilt one given the age and major failure. Then offer the head gasket if they dont want to spend that sort of money on the vehicle or cant afford it. If they cant afford that, the parts store has nice additives.
I have a 95 grand Cherokee with 4.0L and 352,286 miles. I was told to replace the motor because it had a cracked head and gasket. These motor can get 300,000 or more miles. I decided to get a brand new head for. I put on 52,000 more miles on it and runs really strong .
As long as the piston rings are still good, as a Honda technician i would recommend head gasket & timing chain Kit along with VTC Actuator (if never done so) and new gasket kit for valve cover
That's awesome I was just thinking the same thing 👍🏼 I have a feeling the owner of this car took good care of the engine, if that's the case I'd say do the labor to repair the engine and keep it going.
I'm a long time Honda dealership parts manager. I agree with what many have said. Just replace the gasket and check/ resurface the head. I'd honestly be interested in seeing the 'proof in the pudding'. Tear it down entirely and spec out everything to see if people are correct in holding firm to the Honda brand testament of quality!
I'm a GM/LS guy who's made MANY mortgage payments fixing Super Duty's. I daily drive a 21 y/o Honda 300-400 miles weekly (Can't afford Joe's 93 octane in the Silverado or Camaro on the daily). Just did a head gasket & cylinder head rebuild in Feb (valve stem seals & lapped all valves back in & very light mill on the head- Honda recommended). Car still running Strong! And I used to hate imports when I was younger lol. As long as the customer understands the preliminary work (i.e. all I mentioned above) is willing to pay obviously and the oil is clean (no metallic flakes in it or chocolate milk coming outta the oil pan lol) I'd say it's worth it....have you seen the price of new cars??
Depends on the car. If it's a dodge, replace the radiator cap. Directions: Remove radiator cap, remove car from under radiator cap, place new car under radiator cap, replace radiator cap. If it's honda or toyota, super glue the gasket and test drive it for 200,000 miles
Dave, you are the professional. I would say once you pull the head off to do the head gasket that would be a good time to make your decision on rebuild, or simple head gasket and done!
@@zl14l41 to get an idea of the condition of the bores. You might see a bunch of wear and decide not to open the Pandora's box and install an used or recon motor instead, or plan on the full rebuild.
I got my truck with a blown head gasket. Chevy 4.3. Took off the heads, found out the driver's sids casing was cracked. So, i located another good set of heads, bought new gaskets, made sure it was all straight and good, torqued that shit down, and here we are almost a thousand miles later. Still running strong.
Well, I'm biased as I've only driven S10s for the past 25 years or so; but the 4.3 is an absolute work horse. I've had one go 400k before I sbc swapped, and my current chassis (99 ZR2) was at 260 when It started getting tired and I rebuilt with a billet crank stroker kit. BUT , it would have easily limped further with no real issues. 4.3 needs a HG? REPLACE THE PART! Great engine, great trucks!
Do what you do best, Dave. Check the oil for heavy particulant, check compression and check coolant system... of course you already knows that. Honda VTEC engines are durable if maintained. If the compression and oil are good, then sells your customer the head job. My brother's car is a 2004 with near 300k miles and was overheated. Melted the timing covers and the plastic intake but everything checked out good. Ripped apart, replaced the cylinder head and head bolts (rebuilt head is less expensive than sending it out to a machine shop), timing belt and water pump and belt tensioner pulley. Resurfaced (warped block) the engine deck by hand, prepped everything and slapped it all back together. All these was done on my driveway with no special tools other than my torque wrenches and a straight edge. Checked codes, bad temp sensor. Now, runs like a charm.
Yeah definitely, I have a feeling the owner of this car has probably taken good care of it, regular oil changes etc. I have a feeling they're probably going to do the head gasket replacement. Even a newer motor may not be the best choice in the long run, you don't know how that engine was taken care of or not, Great talking point 👍🏼
What’s the car worth? We battled this problem with our 05 Toyota Sienna 190k miles. It was going to cost $2500 at least to repair it. We deliberated for months. Ended up sold it for scrap (basically) to the mechanic who then repaired it, had the heads re-serviced and then he sold it for a little profit. May have been the wrong decision to some people but we are happy with our 07 Sienna now with 65k mikes
YOUR DOING GREAT DAVE!!! Smoother delivery every video. Invest in your production and keep trust worthy people around. People are about to really start going through it. It would be great for you to teach the most common hustles at motor shops, and the hacks to fix the problems. You’re about to get a massive influx in subscribers prepare yourself you deserve it you’re vibration is that of a honest, hard-working man of integrity enjoy the ride my friend
......i was onboard with your comment and agreeing with you.....and then you had to take a hard left and start talking about his vibrations....🙄 J/k....kinda. lol
My work van had 208000 on it and the engine was making funny noises, leaking coolant, and between 1/2 to a whole quart of oil per day. I swapped the whole engine just because I can't allow it to go down and didn't have time to pull it apart to make the repairs. Here we are 1500 miles into the new engine with no leaks and no funny noise, and lots more power. I'm happy with my choice.
I agree to replace. Other factors have to be considered like 1. vehicle downtime 2. lack of maintenance on previous motor possible caused further damage 3.Often used remanufactured motors offer warranties. 4th and last is I would trust Dave with whatever recommendation he gave me.
@@avantgarde619 I couldn't have my van down cuz I need it for work Monday thru Friday, so I took Friday off work and swapped the engine in my garage myself. By Sunday evening I had everything back together and she's been running great since. Lack of previous maintenance was definitely the reason it was making funny noises and also a deciding factor in the swap, and the new one came with a 4 year warranty, which is nice but I hope to never have to use it.
If customer says the motor always had 5k mile or less oil & filter changes ,the motor looks clean under valve cover & uses little to no oil between oil changes then yes a head gasket with decking head to ensure flatness repair is just fine. If it were mine while head was off I’d also change valve seals & hand lap the valves too. But if motors dirty under valve cover with questionable oil maint over 200k miles & if it uses/burns a significant amount of oil between oil changes oil I’d rebuild or replace the motor.
I've been driving a 2004 SATURN ION since 2003. ❤2.2 Chevy Cobalt Motor. Car is recently at 388500 miles. Last year the top gasket was starting to leak ... Replaced the gaskets, timing chain, hoses, thermostat. Runs good with COLD AC. 👍 I think it's a question of price.
This is hands down the best channel for auto enthusiast. The quality of info from the channel and in the comments section is awesome. Please keep posting .........
I worked for GM and was a shop owner my self I am very impressed with your UA-cam videos and the quality of your work and professional manner you run your shop new engine .if customers can afford it always give the a price for both. Keep up the good work.
Depending on how hot it got, it may have seized the oil control rings to the pistons, will it run after a head gasket, yes but it will likely use oil and or smoke, its possible the new Valvoline restore and protect can help loosen the rings up.
Compression test will not work with the blown head gasket. Compression is leaking into the cooling system. Scoping the cylinders will give some information. But the compression test will show at least one cylinder down on compression.
Depends on how hot it got prior to head gasket failure. I would definitely make the customer aware of the possibility of high oil consumption if they opted for the head gasket replacement.
Apples to oranges. This engine is at the end of its lifespan. Once they add on timing components, head work, and everything else, the customer might as well buy a used long block
Blown head gasket often deems the car irreparable because of the greed of the mechanics. All they need to do most of the times is take of the head, resurface it(step they often skip but charge you anyway), put new gasket and put back the head. It takes some work hours but you shouldn't sell your kidney for that. Plus, the aftermarket gaskets can often be of a much better quality then the original ones and last much longer.
You give your customer some options and let them decide. They may go elsewhere for another estimate but at least you know that you did the right thing.
Nah just the head gasket 4.0 jeeps 5.9 Cummins same shit get head looked at for cracks cleaned up slap a new gasket and head bolts/ studs send it fuck a rebuild until that pavement looks like the Tigris river
I love these honda 2.4L engines. I do believe they’re an open deck design and have heard that after overheating one the block may also need to be resurfaced to make sure that the head gasket doesn’t blow again prematurely. Dave you would probably know best. I would recommend full engine rebuild if they plan to keep the car another 5-10 years. These engines well maintain will easily go 300k miles, with nothing more then regular maintenance.
That's a common problem for many engines with aluminum heads. I had to mill the heads on my old 92 Dodge Daytona with the Mitsubishi 3.0 V6. Overhead cam engines are somewhat limited in how much you can mill before messing with the cam timing. The manual recommended no more than .008" and I ended up going almost .018" meaning I could never get both cams and crank timed 100% together. I opted for the rear head to be slightly retarded by half a dot. Drove the car for five more years like that and it ran just fine, no weird vibes or funky emissions. Probably a tiny bit of power loss but I never noticed. The odometer broke at 136k and I put twelve years of heavy driving on it after that, so I have no clue how many miles were on it when I finally parked it for the last time.
As a master technician I will say you have to weigh those options cuz first you have to consider how bad did it get or if it was to a point where you suspect warpage or it just happened and was brought in right away. If they rode it like that until it couldn’t no more then considered warped and new engine but if they got in time and right away after it happened then I will tell them hey I think it has a possible chance in saving and checking the heads to see if if it passes clearance specs on a straight edge test of the head/straightblock.
I have seen situations like that as a shade tree mechanic. I usually just replaced the head. I do inspect the oil for metal. Not all blown head gasket blow through to the coolant passage. Some head gaskets blow between the cylinders. As a shade tree mechanic, I don't rely on some gimmick or guessing game. I usually do a vacuum check if the engine is running, a compression check as a follow up, or if the engine is not running. Rebuilt heads are actually a bargain compared to a used motor, especially a rebuilt engine.
Hey I think I have a "blown" head gasket but the only symptom is a small amount of oil and pressure in the coolant tank. I can't really afford to fix it but I will in about a month. What do you think I'm risking driving the car like 20-50 miles a day for a few weeks as is? It's a bmw X5 v8 with 100k. No other issues and has had thousands in parts and engine work done by previous owner.
Being a shop makes a difference. If it were mine and I knew it was serviced well, I’d have no problems doing a head gasket. In a shop, if it’s a vehicle you know, maybe you could suggest one way or the other. If you don’t know it then three options to the customer, 1 check condition (oil pressure, compression, general condition) for a fee. 2 throw a head gasket at it, or 3 replace the engine. Shop has some responsibility but it’s customers car. They know what their budget and plans for the car are. You can’t guarantee the bottom end or valve train but how many tune ups or brake jobs do you do without knowing the condition of everything else? 200k is a lot of miles but it could have another 100 or more left in it. If they can’t decide or press the shop to decide, I would suggest a fresh engine.
Cut open the oil filter and inspect the contents, send some used oil for analysis, and check maintenance records for oil changes. Results will make the decision clear.
Fifteen years ago we used to replace head gaskets all the time. On modern engines I am very wary about doing it. Low tension rings and the VVT garbage hanging off most engines are two of the main reasons. I feel if you crack most engines you better rebuild it or nothing. You might get away with it on that one but I'd worry about the rings.
Depends on if the car's value and condition. Is it worth the expense of a engine rebuild and the labor to install? If the car has been well maintained, no rust or previous accident history and transmission condition. 200k is a lot of miles. being it's a common vehicle, I would right it off.
The value is irrelevant if the customer isnt thinking about selling it, think about it. Excluding the rust. Id recommend a rebuild and youll have new car, minus the tranny. 3'500 for a rebuild or a used 2018 honda with 75k miles for 15k. I think 3500 its the smarter move if you really cant afford another loan.
I have 2000 Infiniti G20 and have 210,000+ miles on it and the engine is still strong. Of course I do alot of maintenance on it myself. Fluid changes, brake changes, and others. If u don't neglect the car, it'll run forever and also don't overwork ur engine.
It's either a blown head gasket , cracked head , or warped head. 1. You won't know if the head is still good until you pull it off. 2. You won't know if the cross hatching on the cylinders is still good unless you pull the plugs and bore scope each cylinder. 3. It's a safe bet the catalytic converter is clogged/non-functional. 4.If they've been driving it like this for more than a few days the exhaust gasses in the antifreeze have formed carbonic acid which is destroying the radiator from the inside out. So there is: 1. About a 50/50 chance it needs a new head 2. About a 1 in 5 chance the rings need to be replaced. 3. A 90% chance the timing chain is stretched ( 200k miles) 4. About a 75% chance a radiator tank going to crack open in the next 3 months. 5. The catalytic converter is clogged. You have to look at the big picture The odds that this vehicle just needs a head gasket are real long. If it was in my shop , I would quote engine , radiator and catalytic converter. I would tell them that we could try just replacing the head gasket, but I don't think it will make the vehicle reliable.
I've got a Saturn that has 257k on it. I did a chemical block test and a coolant flush. No issues. Also the cat is in good shape and the oil is regularly changed. I also replaced the hub bearing assembly as well as brakes, rotors and calipers. It's a vue and I'm impressed that this small SUV has made it this far. Lol
@glennchartrand5411 this is a Honda CR-V, they don’t have timing chains but I would definitely recommend a new timing belt if everything checks out good with the head to avoid having the customer turn around & come back for that service.
I had an old ford ranger the head cracked it had just over 175000 miles. I decided to replace only the head since the truck was 'almost worn out.' I replaced the head . Most of the old parts went back in it. I did use new bolts and gaskets but that's about it. The valves springs ect. came with the head but the old cam followers lifters basically everything went back in . The seal end of the cam wasn't perfect. Once I heard how good it ran I immediately wished I did a better job. Because it was obviously better than I thought it was. However I drove it up to 313000 miles. I scrapped it at this time. The transmission failed and the frame and body were in bad shape. But that engine still ran perfectly except for a very small oil leak from the end of the camshaft. Even that wasn't bad enough to need a quart between oil changes.
I would give them both options depending on other factors (condition of car, coolant in oil, estimate how long the rest of the car will last). People don’t like to put more in a car than it’s worth, but sometimes it is because they have to replace that car with another so they’ll probably end up spending a lot more.
Pull the head, pop out the pistons and run a hone in the cylinders, re-ring pistons and slap it back together with a new timing belt/chain and components. New seals and gaskets. Thats what i would do.
Gentleman.your mechanical expertise is outstanding, impecable, impressive and overwhelming, at my 72 years of age, been there done , asa much as you , but now I just watch, learn and from time to time get my hands greased up, congratulations, blessings to you and your love ones, from the endless summer paradise Puerto Rico Jesus Torres.
It’s a Honda! Replace the head gasket and run it another 200k
Back in the 80's early 90's i would do a head gasket and drive it another 200 don't have much knowledge on the newer ones think the durability has slacked off some !
Reason being i drove a 86 Accord! My farther bought it as a work car with 63k gave it to me with 186k i drove it untill it had 286k gave it to brother it only need a rack pinion ! The whole time it always used a half a quart of oil every oil change never more never less !
Many of today's engines have thin/low tension rings and already burn way too much oil. Might be worthy if it wasn't slurping oil.
No.. because of the head gasket is to the point it doesn’t start the engine was ran with water in the oil. They can deck the block/head and rebuild it but without doing the bottom end that will shoot a rod out thru the girdle and side of the block..
@@OregonDonor87888you saw the washed out bearings?
@@FiloYappins I didn’t, if they were bad then I’m definitely wrong
I think you should offer both options, and explain the pros and cons of each. Let the customer make an informed decision.
Very good answer
Totally agree 👍🏻
The only correct answer. Good for you.
Yup!
This is the way
I'm a big believer in informed consumers. I'd talk to them about both options and give them the pros and cons of both.
That’s all good but some people don’t understand any of this and just think you are trying to rip them off😂
@Usernamehear yea I've had that happen to. I've just tried to explain to them the difference in cost, and let them decide which they prefer.
Good man
@@Cheo.M If only every mechanic was like you
I'd agree, but I would talk to them about potential wear and maybe running some tests to see what kinda shape the rest of the motor is in. There are a lot of factors involved in something like that and it's better to know if it's worth fixing instead of getting a new engine. If it overheated, a new head gasket isn't gonna last very long if the head got warped.
Need more info.
1) Have the oil changes been done and what quality of oil has been used?
2) Has the crank been sitting & running in chocolate milk shake for a while?
3) Does inside the valve cover have that burnt smell?
Mileage is a consideration, but if the customer has taken care of this vehicle, you should be able to get away with a head gasket and resurface.
Best answer! Also consider opening up the oil filter.
This is the right answer, considered with additional info and nuance!
That's a K24a1 engine, drop a new gasket in it and call it a good day. They are low horsepower, long lasting engines.
180 is good horsepower 😊
Well they can just replace the head gasket and tell them they pulled the motor and the customer won't know the difference since it'll run for another 200k miles as long as they didn't crack the block... 100% head gasket.. this is why mechanics are the worst type of doctors out there, they're the biggest scammers on planet earth
@@jlo7770bro if your engine needed only a head gasket, I would tell you. However sometimes we have to tear down an engine which isn't free, so we can figure out if it needs a head gasket or an engine. And if it needs an engine, I would show you what's damaged about it and why it needs a new engine. Not all mechanics are bad. Please stop giving all of us a bad name when some of us are good. It hurts the good mechanics.
@@aperson4713 you're right not all of you are bad but per capita... theres more shady mechanics than good ones. I'm considering taking a truck 700 miles to have a shop work on it vs risking local scum bags touching it.
But let's be real here. If you're at the head gasket you got the motor tore down half way. You can see a lot of it to see if the block is cracked or not. I don't understand why in a million years this scum bag is saying should we offer them the 500$ fix or the 5000$ fix? It's a 4 cyl Asian made motor. It's at half life its like those vw tdi motors or most every other diesel. It's just disingenuous.
What a decent mech, should say is... "we think it's a head gasket but we're really not sure, we'll have to pull the head and see, the block could have cracked you could have bent a rod if a ton of coolant went in the cylinder, we don't know till we start pulling stuff apart" this guy is saying the same shit and than saying "or we could just not bother looking at your motor at all and we can just replace the whole motor"
@@Legend-lc9bvyou must be from another country if you think that
You educate them on what you see, let them decide what they can afford. The rest is on them.
I like your think'n. They may be looking to trade it in sell it or get rid of it soon so kind of a lot of money would be worthless
Exactly, best advice!
That is the most definite answer I could not of said it better
100%
My friend owns a shop he will tell the customers the options and let them decide
Dude I'm a mechanic and I'd love to work for this guy. I love his videos and his attitude. I bet he is a great boss
Yup he doesn't waist time & finds great solutions to technical problems. I don't know how many times I've done a HD gasket when it should've gotten an engine no new timing belt no new wp ,head didn't go to machine shop it's ridiculous I said to bosses that it's not our problem whether or not they can afford the work it's like that's what it's going to cost they either have it or they don't. Smaller jobs im ok with a break but when you tear a head off there shouldn't be much of a discounted price
I'm not even a mechanic and I'd love to work for this guy
Ya same
Other than that video he made making fun of his own employee
Be your own boss. Why make someone else rich?
Mechanics its called an engine assessment please note for future reference do a compression test then send an oil sample out to the lab to check the metal content then check all cylinder walls with a camera and check for blow by then check for thrust play at the crankshaft also I would take the valve cover off and check for oil sludge to make sure the engine has been maintained if all checks out I would sell only the full headGasket service.
I’m a rookie mobile mechanic and I’ve learned more from this guy within 3 reels than I have anywhere else online
He's straight forward with no bs
99th like an this is by far a underrated comment.
@@beefnacos6258 yup no BS like putting a glove on a radiator.
Engine,,,,,l
An honest mechanic keeps his customers. Give both options.
3rd option…junk the 200+K car.
Sell them another car
I do exactly this for my customers. With typed estimates of each option
Give both options but lean towards the ladder.... It will cover you big time.
Or sell them a ladder I guess
Being a mechanic myself and seeing this first hand, I would say it depends on how the bottom end is. If it’s running good with no issues, no knocking or metallic in the oil, AND if there isn’t any coolant in the oil (exhaust side blown) then replace the head gasket, service the head and let it go. However, if there is coolant in the oil, I would recommend a bottom end overhaul (rods and mains at minimum) or talk about an engine replacement.
Yes
Why not just check condition of the bottom end rather then just replacing everything?
@quentinnash7194 take the oil pan off and take each main bearing cap off one by one checking the clearance. Same with the big end bearings. If they are within tolerance put the pan back on and your done. Havent had to remove the engine or gearbox which has saved time in labour.
I agree with that!
isn't there a way to send a sample of the oil in for testing? when I was in the military they had us send off an oil sample to be tested. i don't know much about it, but I think it was to analyze how much very fine metal particles were in it.
Always both. But heavily suggest a full rebuild. He will make out better in the long run but sometimes the customers budget just ain't there
Replace the head gaskets. I had a blown head gasket and the shop said that i needed a new motor. I replaced the head gaskets, timing chain and oil pump. Now i have 488,000 miles on that same motor. Same rings pistons same valves and it runs great. 1976 Dodge D100 5.2L or 318.
It's a 318 there pretty hard to kill .
@donaldellitsgaard5194 yeah I agree don't use bulletproof engines as examples, 😂
It’s a Honda motor in the video lol
Them 318 are generally more reliable than the hemi
@@donaldellitsgaard5194and the engine in the video is a Honda J series, which is probably more durable than anything from the seventies
the best policy is honesty give all the information and educate them .
I was in this same situation the cost for pulling my engine to replaced head gaskets and checking my heads for cracks was close to the cost of a new factory replacement engine. Labor is a killer!
Just get one from junkyard for 600 and you ready to go.
I can’t vouch for today, but I was a Honda mechanic back in the early 80’s. The guys that did this sort of thing there, never removed the engine from the car. But they had everything they needed to get to all the bolts, brackets and such, and support the engine block. Still it saved a lot of time.
The engine replacement too have labor cost.
@@georgemose3067and you don't know what you are getting.
True now the question is did you eat the core n keep the original to rebuild it for the spare turbo build 😂😂😂❤
YOU HAVE TO OFFER BOTH! But I'd recommend replacement, almost always.
Do a compression test and see what the non hurt cylinders hold. If they all leak down go with a new engine but if hold good compression it might be worth taking a chance on a head gasket.
I would listen for knocks too, depending on what kind of gauge you use (some keep the needle at the highest reading until reset for solo testing) you can get a false sense of average compression with a gauge that freezes the highest reading. Something like early piston slap or rod knock could be missed if you aren't looking for it.
Lifter tick, Rod knock and (early) Piston slap are knocking sounds misable with a compression test.
Of course it's important to rule out detonation, but in my experience detonation isn't all too consistent in most cases. It goes away with proper operating temperatures, but that's not something I'm as well versed in to be fair.
Honda Tech for the last 25 years. Put a head gasket on it and it will run fine with one caveat. Will have an oil consumption issue guaranteed. The cooling fans are a common failure on that vehicle and has most likely been overheated. Blown head gaskets are not common on the K24 without an overheating condition. It's motor time or junk yard time.
Whats a headgasket cost to replace on this car
@justins1917 depends where you have it done, what parts are used, and what else is found at tear down
@justins1917 id say you're typically doing new timing components while you're there too. Maybe motor mounts, water pump. Wouldn't make sense to only do a bare minimum job. So you're looking at like 3-5k but I'd rather have all that with some arp hardware and I'd improbable have to do something with the heads while they're off..
Kyle, I think this is the correct answer. Because of Honda’s high reliability, sometimes maintenance is spotty at best. I doubt this vehicle was wondrously maintained. I think Dave will have to simply describe in detail to the customer what needs to be done. If the body is rusty, then the car is scrap.
@lukek1949 The cost of repairing a vehicle that old generally does not make sense for someone who has to pay to have it done. Vehicles like that usually end up being mechanic specials if the bodies are okay.
You give an estimate for both is what I would do
Transperancy is hard in the auto industry.
His question derived based on what news would benefit the shop most.
Offering both options would benefit the customer most. 🤷♂️
Same
An honest recommendation customer, she'll never last. You start replacing engines/transmissions it's a fool's game.
@@kelsycunningham8452that’s the dumbest thing I’ve ever heard. Yeah just replace it with a new car since they are so cheap nowadays. 5k or $60k…. Tough call.
@@kelsycunningham8452I've driven 30K so far on a salvage engine and rebuilt transmission. I spent about$3000, which was a lot more affordable than a new truck. But my truck is 25 years old.
Spending the money on maintenance is WAY better than paying these ridiculous car payments.
Agreed. Unfortunately I’m paying both 😂😭
Depends on the price comparison! If were talking $800 vs $4,000, go cheaper. If it's $1,500 vs $2,000, take the higher option.
Honda 4 cylinder w/ no turbo. Just fix whats wrong and do timing kit ez job too so labor shouldn't bee that bad. I know ez honda techs that do that in a matter of an afternoon after work.
Full overhaul
I bought a Ecoboost boost mustang that had a blown head gasket. Warranty tried to only do the gasket but the bottom end turned out to be shot. Shop tried to tell warranty company but they opted to do just the head gaske, they ended up having to do the whole engine and had to pay the shop for both jobs!
Agreed on that point 👌
Head gasket on that engine should cost 100 max in parts and 100 max in labour. For a good shop that will get good discounts on parts and a good tool kit, 50 in parts and 50 in labour, any more and you are getting ripped off!!
I always ask how long they plan on keeping the car then go from there.
Great work!
Agreed bud.
Also how bad of condition is the engine sometimes they just need the new gasket and they can run for alot longer
I would want to know about both, cost and expectation from repair. Maybe can only afford head gasket but can start saving for the engine.
This sounds like the best way of going about it.
After new head gasket,a compression test to see Whats going on, then new belts, a twin turbo, a 200 hp nitrous kit, a huge wing and you are good to go.
Worked in a Honda shop for 6 years before I got my engineering degree. You have to boil the shit out of a K series to get it to blow a head gasket. The D and Bs sometimes did it on their own, but I’ve never seen one go bad on a K that wasn’t a result of the owner.
@@remarkablehairdo3110 yup. You can do a D or a B head gasket in 4 hours. The few bad head gaskets on a K I did see, we ended up just putting a motor in it for cheaper than doing the head gasket unless it was a low mileage car. I don’t think these had as much clamping force on the head gasket like the higher revving versions, but my money would still be on a manufacturer defect or the owner overheated the motor to oblivion but was too embarrassed to mention it. Seen a few of those cases.
Worse one was a guy who lived about an hour away. The oil light came on in his accord, so rather than check it he chose to drive an hour to the shop. Didn’t even have 1/4 of a quart in it. Dumping the oil filter looked like I was pouring out anti seize.
I was just revising head gasket failure diagnosis methods, starting from a coolant leak on a diesel. Besides the chemical testers, this is by far the easiest, cheapest and fastest test method that I had absolutely, completely forgotten about! THANK YOU so much!
Lay out both options, but that's a 2nd gen CRV so the engine is a k20 or k24. One of the best ever made if maintenance was fairly regular.
This!
K24 hence the 2.4
Somebody knows their stuff.
Then tell her to slap a big ole snail on, tune it, and get out there and take some mustangs for a walk lol.
As a fellow trade biz owner, this west we do Ava how I train my techs.
1) Educate the customer on the diagnosis & what the findings were.
2) Present the options - in their case head gasket or rebuild. * answer any and all questions they may have
3) Let them decide what is best for them/their budget etc.
We don’t do the hard sales shit. Educate. Present options. Let them decide. It’s their money.
Well put
Start with English lessons.
Recommend both. Lay out the pros and cons and cost and let the customer decide. It’s there money, use it when you need it!!!!
Lmao
J G Wentworth.
877 cash now,
Dammit. 🤦♂️
@@CoreyBrisson yes!!!!!!!!!! Hahahahahabahahaha!!
Their* money
@@MWilk098 thanks
Check cylinder compression and see if it's holding at 150 psi or low end 125 psi. If it's holding compression, change the head gasket and let the customer know those options of a rebuild. Make sure Dave that you check the flatness on both the block and heads, make sure the valves are still good at seating, then go with what customer states.
Depends on the damage. Most of the time you can just replace the gasket but you never know till you tear it down
Exactly, you could have very well worn down camshaft bearings, or a really messed up piston oil retaining ring in a cylinder... you never know. Tell them everything, then decide where to go from there.
Your car needs about 3-6 grand worth of work but we thought this little rubber glove blowing up would give you a good chuckle 😂
lol
3 grand to do a head gasket? 6 grand to do a motor Jesus.
@@charliesnodgrass67886 grand to do a motor sounds pretty believable. 3 for a head gasket is crazy, but I wouldn't really know as I do all work myself. On that engine you can probably do head gasket mounted without issue.
You do have to consider that to rebuild the engine you gotta take it out of the car, which by itself is probably a days worth to take out + day to put back, then do many hundreds of dollars of gaskets, piston rings, bearings, valves, cam work.
Its easily a week worth of work, whereas a head gasket can be done by 1 knowledgeable person in less than 2 days. Maybe 1 if they start early in the morning. Personally since its not really a high-performance vehicleI would just do the head gasket and keep in mind that it is a 200kmi car, and not drive it like I'm in Fast and Furious. Those Japanese engines last forever if you do oil changes at no more than 3500mi.
Bad news: the rubber glove shows the combustion gases are getting into the coolant..
Maybe 1800 for the head gasket, no way it’s 3k
Depends how well that engine has been maintained.
That engine bay is pretty clean looking, I would imagine they took care of the engine as well. Looks can be deceiving though.
And when this headgasket leak was discovered! If they have been slowly compensating for this loss in cooling and power, who knows where the problems could arise in the future. Sure, maybe a new headgasket job could get this car another 100k. But if they want it to do 300k then maybe rebuild it.
Depends on how long they've been running it making milkshakes.
Depends on how rusty the body is.
I would check both the cylinder head and engine block surfaces. That means, I would get tear down time approved first. I would also find out if this engine had any oil consumption issues. If measurements are within spec and there are no oil consumption issues; I would just quote a head gasket service.
Honda = head gasket,
Ford/Chevy = Engine
Dodge = junk yard
idk what you mean lmao. engines aint the problem its the transmission. i have a dodge thats been through 6 trannys and the engines at 580k miles. my 2010 sxt is at 340k miles og trans and engine. though as you could guess theyre rusted to hell
@@vexisjade7.3 is International
@flameonhood most lineups include good and bad engines. As a tech that started in the industry I can say that the Chrysler conglomerate has made some terrible engines in the last two decades. Remember they don't make Cummins. . .
@@flameonhoodI got a 07 ram in mint condition lots of goodys and no rust 110,000 miles, my work truck is a 2016 ram 2500 gasser with 300,000 miles no rust all original no goodys. Dodge is much better than it was in 80s n 90s
Dodge neon srt4- head gasket
07 ram 1500 - mint
Honda accord- $150 scrap yard rust statue
Take off the head and assess the damage. If it overheated and warped, replace the motor. If engine was maintained and in good repair, swap the gasket.
The only problem with this approach is you spend money to figure out what is wrong then decide for rebuild or junkyard.
As a 25 year electrician and an amateur mechanic this guys shop would be awesome to work at
Ive been in this exact situation as a customer and they did a head gasket. It was a nightmare. The car blew the replacement head gasket and then I paid parts for a 3rd one plus machining the head and that one blew too.
The car was finally repaired when I pulled the engine out myself, stripped it down to a bare block, replaced the head and had the block decked. The machine shop told me the block deck flatness was at 0.010" before they decked it. Tolerance was .002" for that block (Honda F22b2). I replaced the head too and put it back together. The block was warped and you could see funky wear on the main bearings too. Ran fine after that. What happens when you tear the whole thing down inspect it and the block is out of tolerance and you gotta do an engine anyways? Its one thing if you're doing that on your own time but not on the customers dime.
Absolutely, talk about doing an engine, especially if it was overheated the head and block are probably warped and its got 200k? Waste of time and the customers money to just do a heagasket and hope for the best. It will cost more up front, but a lot less risk of problems.
The one silver lining of that situation is I taught myself to become a damn good home mechanic and Im restoring an old Toyota with the skills I learned.
Correct answer is pull the head to check for flatness and examine the piston walls. Ask about any smoking or engine noises. If they look good, do the head gasket. If it needs more than a head gasket, do the engine.
I have owned a couple of Hondas and they are pretty darn tough. I done a head gasket replacement on 2.2 vtec with just over 200,000 without doing anything with the bottom end. I put another 100,000 on it and it still ran great with no issues. I may have just been lucky, but it was always reliable.
The K series engines are different than the H22. Due to the VTC system on the K series, you aren't supposed to resurface the head. If the head or block is not flat, you have to replace the head or block. The open deck design also means they will crack, damage the piston skirts and cylinder walls once overheated.
It is easier and cheaper to just replace it with another good used engine. There are tons of K24a around in the junk yard and the labour would actually be less for a engine replacement than a head job
@@brarautorepairsyup k24 engines are everywhere. Super reliable and cheap.
Reliable engine
Fuck it goin D series again 🎉
Put a toyota motor in it will last 4 ever. Honda is crap
Depends on how well the engine was maintained for those 200k miles. I have driven plenty of vehicles that had 300k+ miles on them and they ran great.
I think you fully explain both options and cost points to the customer and let them decide what is best for them
A compression test and oil pressure would be helpful to determine the condition of the bottom end
Problem with a compression test is it has a blown head gasket
Can’t do either properly until u fix the head gasket
Can a visual inspection of the cross hatching at least visually determine if it just needs the gasket or overhaul? I know it’s not precise, but you can generally get an idea of where in tear, more or less that way.
@@Tsunseyu most shops dont want to take the time to pull out torque wrenches and spec sheets.. Its easier and cheaper for them to swap a motor.. To me the fun is in the build.. ive done multiple head gasket jobs over the years.. if the gasket is a felt gasket, you are more than likely ok.. if its a Multi Layer steel gasket then send the head to the machince shop to get it inspected or at the least check it with a mechanics straight edge and a feeler guage.. The felt will blow out and cause compression loss.. a MLS gasket will warp heads,and cause cracks, etc.. I only use Fel-Pro head gaskets.. and always replace head bolts..
Depends on wear on engine..burns oil or not.
Good compression or not..
Do the head gasket..
Change oil
Flush cooling system
Drive it...
As a Mechanic and shop owner of 48 years it is my humble opinion that you should put both options on the table giving the customer the Pro’s and Con’s and their consequences and let the customer make the decision. Factors such as the overall condition of the engine will play into your recommendations and strategy
Best answer! A lot of factors go into that decision
I disagree. I think that the mechanic can make a better decision. Than the customer.
@@shadetreemech290The mechanic should give all viable options so the customer can choose one.
Note: there can be 0 or more viable options. That assessment is for the mechanic to make.
You have 3 options :
1 - replace the head gasket
2 - swap the engine
3 - have the engine rebuilt at the shop
It all dépends on your budget
My thoughts exactly! A twenty something with a new family may only be able to afford the bandaid but will spring for the next more expensive option OR say scrap it the body is rusted out and we will figure out. Been in that position before.
Test compression on a good cylinder, for answer, hopefully there's a cold reference reading.
Compression test with a blown head gasket? I mean, maybe but in the thought of head gasket or new engine I'd say the information is useless. It's getting opened up anyways so go from there
That's what I want to hear. I appreciate that.
Full engine repair is what i propose to my customers.
It would depend on a bunch of variables
1- cost effectiveness for the customer. And what kind of mechanics you have in your shop. Can they do it in record time? Can you get a used new engine for a decent price ?
2 - what’s the condition of the vehicle? If we do a head gasket are there going to be other parts that will need to be replaced on the way in and or put, and do they or we have enough money to cover these things gs?
3-what’s the fastest turn around time?
4 -what’s readily available?
I always try to push for a new (used)motor. Less time on the street (as I am now a mobile mechnic) less to go wrong and build a tab 90% of the time faster then a head job because you don’t have turn around time from the machine shop. And no added problems that you won’t hear amount until the machine shop is finished testing.
Just my two cents.
Do a compression check. It'll tell you which cylinder has the blow, and the other 3 cylinders will tell you how well the cylinders rings have been performing overall. That is how you know what to do
What? Real diagnostics?
Use a borescope in the bad cylinder and see if any additional damage occurred.
Nah the glove nonsense and trying to give people an engine they don't need is the way most mechanics would go in reality.
How can you get accurate results from compression test with bad head gasket!?
@@DMcElfresh101 The blown head gasket is almost always on a cylinder. This is because the gasket thins where a water jacket port is located. The compression check of the remaining cylinders tell you how well the rings are performing in the engine, overall. If the compression in the nonfailed cylinders is relatively good, you know based on the miles on the engine, that simply resealing the engine heads may be a viable option. If compression is severely lacking, then you know this engine is a good candidate for rebuild/replacement. Without proper testing you really don't know anything, and these simple tests can give you real data to make informed decisions from. There are other tests you can do like oil pressure, but on a modern engine this doesn't always tell you what you want it to, like how well the journals are seating to the bushings. Oil gets used on modern engines to control aspects of timing that can give your errors in your tests. The compression test also lets you know if valve seats may be damaged if the cylinders look fine after disassembly for the head gasket. Then, you can inspect valve seats and valve bodies and make informed choices at that time. The reason you worry about failed rings and valve train isn't because the gasket between your head and engine deck is leaking coolant, it is because the coolant has water in it that can make steam and steam can make the engine operate at pressures it was not designed for and can cause lots of components to be irreparable and requiring replacement.
You don't "sell" them anything.
You tell them what their options are and let them decide.
Agreed
Well said
🤓
And then when the customer buys it, that is called a sale. The service or item has been sold. Not sure why you're using quotation marks like that, as though "selling stuff" isn't real.
@@icankillbugs Your job as a mechanic is to diagnose and present the customer OPTIONS.
It's not to just throw the highest priced fix at them, but go on and show the world how your job is ripping people off.
Again, mechanics are not salesmen. It's really not difficult to understand.
Headgaskit, I did one on a 06 sienna at 190k miles. Still going strong at 335k miles😊
best vans ever.
No way! Toyotas never break. My uncle had a Siena that he drove for 400,000 miles. The hood had never been popped so they had to pry it open to do the first oil change. That was 800,000 miles ago and he thinks he can make it another 200,000 before he has to change the oil for the second time. He got worried about maybe needing brakes or tires but the mechanic found that he actually had thicker pads and deeper tread than it came with when new! Original pads and tires!
@@AlphanumericCharacters who the hell would wait 200k-400k miles to replace the oil?
The long chains of hydrocarbons break down into smaller ones overtime making the oil thinner and thinner
@@jonslg240 Toyotas regenerate the hydrocarbon chains. Basically recycling the oil through pressure followed by a rapid heating and then cooling.
@@AlphanumericCharacters no way they turn it into gasoline, that's why they get such good mpg!
Offer both. Start with we think the ideal solution is replacing the engine with a rebuilt one given the age and major failure. Then offer the head gasket if they dont want to spend that sort of money on the vehicle or cant afford it. If they cant afford that, the parts store has nice additives.
I have a 95 grand Cherokee with 4.0L and 352,286 miles. I was told to replace the motor because it had a cracked head and gasket. These motor can get 300,000 or more miles. I decided to get a brand new head for. I put on 52,000 more miles on it and runs really strong
.
That will run forever. Take care of it and keep it on the road. Good vehicles those are.
That brand new head may kill it quicker.
Buddy had one too. Just like yours. He sold it for crack tho 🤷🏼♂️
@@forallthatisunrealI probably would have done the same. If it was just a gasket replacement I would keep the SUV.
Those beautiful straight 6's. Man I miss mine.
As long as the piston rings are still good, as a Honda technician i would recommend head gasket & timing chain Kit along with VTC Actuator (if never done so) and new gasket kit for valve cover
That's awesome I was just thinking the same thing 👍🏼 I have a feeling the owner of this car took good care of the engine, if that's the case I'd say do the labor to repair the engine and keep it going.
I'm a long time Honda dealership parts manager. I agree with what many have said. Just replace the gasket and check/ resurface the head. I'd honestly be interested in seeing the 'proof in the pudding'. Tear it down entirely and spec out everything to see if people are correct in holding firm to the Honda brand testament of quality!
Any Honda guy worth his salt would replace the VCG while performing the timing belt replacement service!
Replace head gasket and timing chain if it's not been done
@@dennis00zilchgood answer to suggest replacing the VVT actuator.
I'm a GM/LS guy who's made MANY mortgage payments fixing Super Duty's. I daily drive a 21 y/o Honda 300-400 miles weekly (Can't afford Joe's 93 octane in the Silverado or Camaro on the daily).
Just did a head gasket & cylinder head rebuild in Feb (valve stem seals & lapped all valves back in & very light mill on the head- Honda recommended). Car still running Strong! And I used to hate imports when I was younger lol.
As long as the customer understands the preliminary work (i.e. all I mentioned above) is willing to pay obviously and the oil is clean (no metallic flakes in it or chocolate milk coming outta the oil pan lol) I'd say it's worth it....have you seen the price of new cars??
I like you.
Yes yes yes. For what a new car costs, including insurance prices, keep old girl going.
If the transmission is good and if the compression is good, then replace the head gasket
Joe doesn't have much say about what you pay for fuel. Get a more accurate news source. Vote blue.
Depends on the car. If it's a dodge, replace the radiator cap. Directions: Remove radiator cap, remove car from under radiator cap, place new car under radiator cap, replace radiator cap.
If it's honda or toyota, super glue the gasket and test drive it for 200,000 miles
Dave, you are the professional. I would say once you pull the head off to do the head gasket that would be a good time to make your decision on rebuild, or simple head gasket and done!
Put a boroscope down the spark plug holes and inspect the bores
@@annyer262to look for block damage? Or will coolant leak back into the cylinder from the blown gasket when the car is off and leave residue?
@@zl14l41 to get an idea of the condition of the bores. You might see a bunch of wear and decide not to open the Pandora's box and install an used or recon motor instead, or plan on the full rebuild.
@@zl14l41To look for damage to the bore. If there is evidence of damage, replace the engine...
@@annyer262Hard to really see with a camera and you need to pull the head anyway to check for flatness. Just pull the head.
I got my truck with a blown head gasket. Chevy 4.3. Took off the heads, found out the driver's sids casing was cracked. So, i located another good set of heads, bought new gaskets, made sure it was all straight and good, torqued that shit down, and here we are almost a thousand miles later. Still running strong.
ooo, 1k!
Well, I'm biased as I've only driven S10s for the past 25 years or so; but the 4.3 is an absolute work horse. I've had one go 400k before I sbc swapped, and my current chassis (99 ZR2) was at 260 when It started getting tired and I rebuilt with a billet crank stroker kit. BUT , it would have easily limped further with no real issues. 4.3 needs a HG? REPLACE THE PART! Great engine, great trucks!
if you’re lucky you’ll get another thousand 😂
@@beasyphonehow do you fit anything in an S-10?
I am also an s10 conductor full time
As a shade tree screw it up mechanic, your the type of business that gets ton's of business for your honesty and integrity, keep it up please 😂😂🥰
*you're
@artmallory970 just stop.
Do what you do best, Dave. Check the oil for heavy particulant, check compression and check coolant system... of course you already knows that. Honda VTEC engines are durable if maintained. If the compression and oil are good, then sells your customer the head job.
My brother's car is a 2004 with near 300k miles and was overheated. Melted the timing covers and the plastic intake but everything checked out good. Ripped apart, replaced the cylinder head and head bolts (rebuilt head is less expensive than sending it out to a machine shop), timing belt and water pump and belt tensioner pulley. Resurfaced (warped block) the engine deck by hand, prepped everything and slapped it all back together. All these was done on my driveway with no special tools other than my torque wrenches and a straight edge. Checked codes, bad temp sensor. Now, runs like a charm.
Fun tip: next time tape 3 fingers down for a glorious reveal perfectly describing your customers emotions. I'm subscribed now
Talk to them about both options, their budget, the way they drive (the frequency, distance and speed, etc), should help make the decision.
Yeah definitely, I have a feeling the owner of this car has probably taken good care of it, regular oil changes etc. I have a feeling they're probably going to do the head gasket replacement. Even a newer motor may not be the best choice in the long run, you don't know how that engine was taken care of or not, Great talking point 👍🏼
Inspect head and block flatness, mill as necessary, replace the head gasket and send. It’s a Honda K-series. It’s just broken in at 200k
Agreed, make sure no warping and you should be good. No need to replace an engine on a car that old
lmao easy it's Honda crv not a Lexus those had engine problems in the late 2000s and early 2010 years 😂😂 and it looks what this car is
What’s the car worth? We battled this problem with our 05 Toyota Sienna 190k miles. It was going to cost $2500 at least to repair it. We deliberated for months. Ended up sold it for scrap (basically) to the mechanic who then repaired it, had the heads re-serviced and then he sold it for a little profit. May have been the wrong decision to some people but we are happy with our 07 Sienna now with 65k mikes
YOUR DOING GREAT DAVE!!! Smoother delivery every video. Invest in your production and keep trust worthy people around. People are about to really start going through it. It would be great for you to teach the most common hustles at motor shops, and the hacks to fix the problems.
You’re about to get a massive influx in subscribers prepare yourself you deserve it you’re vibration is that of a honest, hard-working man of integrity enjoy the ride my friend
......i was onboard with your comment and agreeing with you.....and then you had to take a hard left and start talking about his vibrations....🙄 J/k....kinda. lol
@@neroaugustus5378 I had to read it twice just to make sure I wasn't reading it wrong 😂😂
My work van had 208000 on it and the engine was making funny noises, leaking coolant, and between 1/2 to a whole quart of oil per day. I swapped the whole engine just because I can't allow it to go down and didn't have time to pull it apart to make the repairs. Here we are 1500 miles into the new engine with no leaks and no funny noise, and lots more power. I'm happy with my choice.
That makes sense. I too have had good luck with used engines.
@@shadetreemech290 I put a brand new remanufactured engine in it. It cost me about $5000 by the time it's all said and done, but it was still worth it
New engine
I agree to replace. Other factors have to be considered like 1. vehicle downtime 2. lack of maintenance on previous motor possible caused further damage 3.Often used remanufactured motors offer warranties. 4th and last is I would trust Dave with whatever recommendation he gave me.
@@avantgarde619 I couldn't have my van down cuz I need it for work Monday thru Friday, so I took Friday off work and swapped the engine in my garage myself. By Sunday evening I had everything back together and she's been running great since. Lack of previous maintenance was definitely the reason it was making funny noises and also a deciding factor in the swap, and the new one came with a 4 year warranty, which is nice but I hope to never have to use it.
Mom's civic went 430,000 miles. Engine still ran when we donated it to our local public radio station. I'd say gasket. 😁
Engine overhaul is the best way for miles of service in my opinion.
I personally would go with rebuilding it as long as there’s a warranty included on the rebuild!
U do know these motors with 30-40k miles are no more than 600$. Honda made a ton. To have it out in is what will take you down at the knee
If customer says the motor always had 5k mile or less oil & filter changes ,the motor looks clean under valve cover & uses little to no oil between oil changes then yes a head gasket with decking head to ensure flatness repair is just fine. If it were mine while head was off I’d also change valve seals & hand lap the valves too.
But if motors dirty under valve cover with questionable oil maint over 200k miles & if it uses/burns a significant amount of oil between oil changes oil I’d rebuild or replace the motor.
Dave you are a talented honorable mechanic and businessman, I enjoy following your videos
I've been driving a 2004 SATURN ION since 2003. ❤2.2 Chevy Cobalt Motor.
Car is recently at 388500 miles. Last year the top gasket was starting to leak ... Replaced the gaskets, timing chain, hoses, thermostat. Runs good with COLD AC. 👍
I think it's a question of price.
A head gasket and valve cover gasket are two different things.
It's rarely just a head gasket. Machining costs. Valve seals. New head bolts, cooling system service. etc, etc, etc.
That is part of replacing a head gasket.
This is hands down the best channel for auto enthusiast. The quality of info from the channel and in the comments section is awesome. Please keep posting .........
I worked for GM and was a shop owner my self I am very impressed with your UA-cam videos and the quality of your work and professional manner you run your shop new engine .if customers can afford it always give the a price for both. Keep up the good work.
Depending on how hot it got, it may have seized the oil control rings to the pistons, will it run after a head gasket, yes but it will likely use oil and or smoke, its possible the new Valvoline restore and protect can help loosen the rings up.
Maybe do a compression test and scope inside the cylinders. If that all checks good, it should be good for another 200K.
This is the right answer. How much oil is it burning and are the cylinder pressures in spec?
Compression test will not work with the blown head gasket. Compression is leaking into the cooling system.
Scoping the cylinders will give some information. But the compression test will show at least one cylinder down on compression.
I 100% agree
Depends on how hot it got prior to head gasket failure. I would definitely make the customer aware of the possibility of high oil consumption if they opted for the head gasket replacement.
Head gasket I had a 95 Corvette LT1 275000 MI I just replaced both head gaskets and it runs great
Apples to oranges. This engine is at the end of its lifespan. Once they add on timing components, head work, and everything else, the customer might as well buy a used long block
That engine is good for 400k
Blown head gasket often deems the car irreparable because of the greed of the mechanics. All they need to do most of the times is take of the head, resurface it(step they often skip but charge you anyway), put new gasket and put back the head. It takes some work hours but you shouldn't sell your kidney for that. Plus, the aftermarket gaskets can often be of a much better quality then the original ones and last much longer.
You need to find a real mechanic.
A lot of the modern dohc heads can’t be resurfaced as it can throw off cam timing.
I am one nof those self employed mechanics that has never short changed a job nor charged for work not done etc.
@@stilllearning1160 keep being yourself. People like you are like diamonds in a coal mine, Godspeed brother.
You give your customer some options and let them decide. They may go elsewhere for another estimate but at least you know that you did the right thing.
Nah just the head gasket 4.0 jeeps 5.9 Cummins same shit get head looked at for cracks cleaned up slap a new gasket and head bolts/ studs send it fuck a rebuild until that pavement looks like the Tigris river
I love these honda 2.4L engines. I do believe they’re an open deck design and have heard that after overheating one the block may also need to be resurfaced to make sure that the head gasket doesn’t blow again prematurely. Dave you would probably know best. I would recommend full engine rebuild if they plan to keep the car another 5-10 years. These engines well maintain will easily go 300k miles, with nothing more then regular maintenance.
That's a common problem for many engines with aluminum heads. I had to mill the heads on my old 92 Dodge Daytona with the Mitsubishi 3.0 V6. Overhead cam engines are somewhat limited in how much you can mill before messing with the cam timing. The manual recommended no more than .008" and I ended up going almost .018" meaning I could never get both cams and crank timed 100% together.
I opted for the rear head to be slightly retarded by half a dot. Drove the car for five more years like that and it ran just fine, no weird vibes or funky emissions. Probably a tiny bit of power loss but I never noticed.
The odometer broke at 136k and I put twelve years of heavy driving on it after that, so I have no clue how many miles were on it when I finally parked it for the last time.
As a master technician I will say you have to weigh those options cuz first you have to consider how bad did it get or if it was to a point where you suspect warpage or it just happened and was brought in right away. If they rode it like that until it couldn’t no more then considered warped and new engine but if they got in time and right away after it happened then I will tell them hey I think it has a possible chance in saving and checking the heads to see if if it passes clearance specs on a straight edge test of the head/straightblock.
Hey bud.. As a shop owner.
You totally on point.
I have seen situations like that as a shade tree mechanic. I usually just replaced the head. I do inspect the oil for metal. Not all blown head gasket blow through to the coolant passage. Some head gaskets blow between the cylinders. As a shade tree mechanic, I don't rely on some gimmick or guessing game. I usually do a vacuum check if the engine is running, a compression check as a follow up, or if the engine is not running. Rebuilt heads are actually a bargain compared to a used motor, especially a rebuilt engine.
Hey I think I have a "blown" head gasket but the only symptom is a small amount of oil and pressure in the coolant tank. I can't really afford to fix it but I will in about a month. What do you think I'm risking driving the car like 20-50 miles a day for a few weeks as is? It's a bmw X5 v8 with 100k. No other issues and has had thousands in parts and engine work done by previous owner.
@@pixelbath2131Is this fr...
@@pixelbath2131please be joking
There are probably options BETWEEN new head gasket and new engine. A diagnostic service would see what NEEDS to be done.
Do a full build with a big turbo and make one hell of a sleeper.
That’s not exactly a cheap option 😂 way to turn an affordable reasonable car into a financial problem real quick
12 year olds be like
Being a shop makes a difference. If it were mine and I knew it was serviced well, I’d have no problems doing a head gasket. In a shop, if it’s a vehicle you know, maybe you could suggest one way or the other. If you don’t know it then three options to the customer, 1 check condition (oil pressure, compression, general condition) for a fee. 2 throw a head gasket at it, or 3 replace the engine. Shop has some responsibility but it’s customers car. They know what their budget and plans for the car are. You can’t guarantee the bottom end or valve train but how many tune ups or brake jobs do you do without knowing the condition of everything else? 200k is a lot of miles but it could have another 100 or more left in it. If they can’t decide or press the shop to decide, I would suggest a fresh engine.
That's a great assessment as well, this is a great talking point. Sometimes it's hard to know which way to go in a situation like this 🤔
Cut open the oil filter and inspect the contents, send some used oil for analysis, and check maintenance records for oil changes. Results will make the decision clear.
That's great ideal.
Nobody's doing that shit just for the customer to decide. 😂
Fifteen years ago we used to replace head gaskets all the time. On modern engines I am very wary about doing it. Low tension rings and the VVT garbage hanging off most engines are two of the main reasons. I feel if you crack most engines you better rebuild it or nothing. You might get away with it on that one but I'd worry about the rings.
You have the conversation, present the facts, options and disclaimers.
It’s a honda replace the head gasket and use it til the rust kills it
Depends on if the car's value and condition. Is it worth the expense of a engine rebuild and the labor to install? If the car has been well maintained, no rust or previous accident history and transmission condition. 200k is a lot of miles. being it's a common vehicle, I would right it off.
The value is irrelevant if the customer isnt thinking about selling it, think about it. Excluding the rust. Id recommend a rebuild and youll have new car, minus the tranny. 3'500 for a rebuild or a used 2018 honda with 75k miles for 15k. I think 3500 its the smarter move if you really cant afford another loan.
I have 2000 Infiniti G20 and have 210,000+ miles on it and the engine is still strong. Of course I do alot of maintenance on it myself. Fluid changes, brake changes, and others. If u don't neglect the car, it'll run forever and also don't overwork ur engine.
On my vehicle I'd just do a head gasket and have the head surfaced/valve job. For a customer where I have to stand behind my work, I'd do a motor
It's either a blown head gasket , cracked head , or warped head.
1. You won't know if the head is still good until you pull it off.
2. You won't know if the cross hatching on the cylinders is still good unless you pull the plugs and bore scope each cylinder.
3. It's a safe bet the catalytic converter is clogged/non-functional.
4.If they've been driving it like this for more than a few days the exhaust gasses in the antifreeze have formed carbonic acid which is destroying the radiator from the inside out.
So there is:
1. About a 50/50 chance it needs a new head
2. About a 1 in 5 chance the rings need to be replaced.
3. A 90% chance the timing chain is stretched ( 200k miles)
4. About a 75% chance a radiator tank going to crack open in the next 3 months.
5. The catalytic converter is clogged.
You have to look at the big picture
The odds that this vehicle just needs a head gasket are real long.
If it was in my shop , I would quote engine , radiator and catalytic converter.
I would tell them that we could try just replacing the head gasket, but I don't think it will make the vehicle reliable.
Hope nobody is dumb enough to follow your tips
I've got a Saturn that has 257k on it. I did a chemical block test and a coolant flush. No issues. Also the cat is in good shape and the oil is regularly changed. I also replaced the hub bearing assembly as well as brakes, rotors and calipers. It's a vue and I'm impressed that this small SUV has made it this far. Lol
@glennchartrand5411 this is a Honda CR-V, they don’t have timing chains but I would definitely recommend a new timing belt if everything checks out good with the head to avoid having the customer turn around & come back for that service.
Great advice. You speak so sensible. Perfect answer.
@@ds1755 VVT means "Variable Valve Timing"
It's a timing chain.
I had an old ford ranger the head cracked it had just over 175000 miles. I decided to replace only the head since the truck was 'almost worn out.' I replaced the head . Most of the old parts went back in it. I did use new bolts and gaskets but that's about it. The valves springs ect. came with the head but the old cam followers lifters basically everything went back in . The seal end of the cam wasn't perfect. Once I heard how good it ran I immediately wished I did a better job. Because it was obviously better than I thought it was. However I drove it up to 313000 miles. I scrapped it at this time. The transmission failed and the frame and body were in bad shape. But that engine still ran perfectly except for a very small oil leak from the end of the camshaft. Even that wasn't bad enough to need a quart between oil changes.
Those little rangers are tough. Was it an inline 4?
Keep in mind if this is a 2003-2005 the camshafts had heat-treatment issues! Check all the lobes for what looks like "seized rollers."
All I want is a shop I can trust and does quality work.
Great video
Good luck
I would give them both options depending on other factors (condition of car, coolant in oil, estimate how long the rest of the car will last). People don’t like to put more in a car than it’s worth, but sometimes it is because they have to replace that car with another so they’ll probably end up spending a lot more.
Tear down for head gasket, inspect components recommend timing and head gasket replacement and check clearances
Dave, honestly, your shop is amazing. I will put my full trust in your decision.
Pull the head, pop out the pistons and run a hone in the cylinders, re-ring pistons and slap it back together with a new timing belt/chain and components. New seals and gaskets. Thats what i would do.
yep & maybe bearing shells too, depending on how they look 👍
Do a compression and a leak down test on the other cylinders. Use the results as a factor in the customer's decision.
Definitely need more info in service history and other things to decide if I would do a engine or gasket
Gentleman.your mechanical expertise is outstanding, impecable, impressive and overwhelming, at my 72 years of age, been there done , asa much as you , but now I just watch, learn and from time to time get my hands greased up, congratulations, blessings to you and your love ones, from the endless summer paradise Puerto Rico Jesus Torres.