Why that? If you have a little clue about what you are doing the the components and tested it on a breadboard, building a PCB isn’t that hard. it just takes practice to wire it in a way you like it. I ordered my first PCB today. It connects 24 mechanical keys, 8 push encoders, 2 microcontrollers, a display and a few sockets (midi and I2c) together. took me from the idea to my order today around 2-3 weeks. I drew around 15 iterations of the board. A few because of changes, a few because I learned a lot each try, so that I wanted to start over and use what I learned at the end from the beginning on. I ended in a board that cannot be much smaller because of the components. As software (I used KiCad) helps you with not messing up (you can only connect pins when drawing the wires that are connected in the diagram, validity checks etc.) you cannot mess up, as long as you don’t do stuff, that interferes with each other (audio and fast digital transfer etc.). Oh. And I struggled a few days to click order, because it feels so “final”, and you have to commit yourself to ne done at that point.
My though exactly. But it's not that hard to do since any mistakes were probably fixed by the sponsor before printing. Also the title makes it sound like the dude made the PCB,but before u painted your traces, etched your blank and driled the holes you can't claim you made a PCB. lol
Me neither, maybe its your first, but you tell me your fooling around a few weeks which tells me this is version 20 of your very first pcb.. which in fact thus isnt the first one you made.. also, hope you etched it yourself, if not, your showing the pcb you designed, and created by some pcb manufacturer and deffenitely not by you.
Getting into electronics, robotics with Arduinos and RaspPi's as a hobby. Been wanting to get into pcb designs but being wary. Seeing you video has inspired me to try it. I'm good with Coral Draw/AI and CAD programs. Your video just showed how easy it can be incorporating these programs with the PCB application. Of course, the learning curb at first is the hardest. Can't wait to try it. Thank you for posting such an informative video.
Thank you for your comment. I have been waiting to get into PCB design for many years, and it was great to start, even when the project was as simple as it could be. I would say go for it, even if it will not be perfect the first time, the prices are so reasonable that you can make few iterations. Also, if you already know how to use other vector tools, you can do quite a lot of work in those. There is even an Inkscape plugin that pretty much allows you to design entire PCB and import it into KiCad. Otherwise, importing traces from AI/Corel Draw might be tricky.
That looks awesome! Well done. One possible suggestion: Use a clear acrylic piece for the top. Cut all holes and include the LED holes. The sheet of acrylic spreads the light applied to the side through the material. This way, you get to see your excellent solder mask and the light will transmit through the sheet when pressed against the PCB. Again, well done!
Thank you for your comment and suggestion! I plan to experiment with different acrylic pieces and I will surely try your idea to see how it looks like. I wasn´t thinking of acrylic in the beginning, but I like the extra touch it adds to the shield.
For a first PCB it looks amazing, well done sir 🙌🏽 Now the pcb bug has bitten you and you will want to make pcb's for every single project in the future 😀 I like how you go into the exact details and explain exactly how and what you've done on your projects, makes it super easy for anyone to follow along, especially liked your video where you used the potentiometer with a small animation on the oled screen, it had me hooked from the get go and was great to sit and watch it, well all of your videos thus far have been fantastic👍🏼 With this project I can see you've spent countless hours getting everything ready and set exactly how you want it and in the end it came out looking very professional. Keep up the great content
Thank you for such a nice comment, I really appreciate it! I hope to keep recording more videos soon, but if you have any specific request for the content, I’m all ears
@upir Any time sir, I give credit where it is due and you have definitely out done yourself with every video. You have also become one of my most favorite content creators to say the least due to the way you do your videos, I really do enjoy your content. To be honest and for a future video, I would really like to see your take on the Waveshare 2" IPS LCD that runs on SPI with some nice graphics or photos or an animated dial or anything that can be animated, haha. I recently purchased one of them to hook up to an Arduino Nano for a OBD project I plan to get started on once I have acquired all the parts needed but would be epic to see and hear your take on it. Just keep in mind that it's a 3.3v display and 5v from the UNO will destroy it, hence why it's perfectly suited for my Nano, oh and the examples I've seen, do not show any resistors but I've read up that one requires about 6 x 220ohm resistors for all the lines except VCC and GND. I also have a 1.5" RGB OLED that I have been having issues with getting to power on and display properly but think it is a dud to be honest and just packed away in my parts bin lol. Anyways so for some more information on the 2" display I'm referring to, here's a link to the wiki - www.waveshare.com/wiki/2inch_LCD_Module
Oh I love your videos. My only tip to newbies, don't use black, white or purple silk screen. You can't see the tracks, making debugging a nightmare. Only use on the final product.
Hi thankyou I added a cheap ebay remote kit to my pre amp & used your software. The only difference I used was I only used one 650ohm resistor on the ground side instead of multiple resistors on leds.
Upir two things I must suggest 1) the distance between led and the diffuser 2) Use a black acrylic and cut out the slot for led then in that gap cut another acrylic similar to that gap or u can just mask it out but make it a good diffuser , u need higher diffusion . then put another diffusion glass on the top (your wish) / In that way only the defused light will come out and will feel like like a single light source
I made several PCBs in college 35 years ago. I still have one I made for a computer clock card in a picture box frame on my desk. I printed it with my name and date on it.
Excellent! you just gave me my next project! :) some ideas for rev. 2 for this project: use smd led and resistors. will look neat and also u can cram from leds (like 40~60) for more resolution between the increments of the volume level. You can get them assembled from pcbway itself since its tidious for assembly. Thanks anyway for this wonderful project!
I have a schematic I built but I can't seem to find a way to turn it into a pcb very well. It's got far too many components. It has 2 resistors and 2 transistors times 40 plus 2 IC and and 3 sets of header pins for the raspberry pie. I'm not sure what to do with it lol. I can't fund suitable routing. The idea is to bring all the lines to 5v conversions. And expand on the i2c bus. But it's too large, too many parts and I'm about to scrap the whole idea. You did an amazing job. I just wish I could get mine done lol
Thank you for your nice comment! If you are not doing anything extra specific, perhaps there is alraedy an IC that could replace at least some of your components and make the PCB simpler?
You can also have a 4 layer pcb, that would remove the gnd and vcc routing leaving morr space for the signals. If that's still not enough there is 6 and 8 layers pcbs, but those will be more expensize and xomplexe to design
Im surprised you didnt have you friend with the laser cutter etch the acrylic for you. Could have done a reverse etch were everything is etched expect the dial tick marks. Aweosme job on the PCB btw!
Yep, it´s a simple potentiometer. But replacing it with a encoder would be possible and would probably make more sense as the volume control is relative and not absolute.
I like the idea, but unfortunatelly not all Arduino pins can do PWM, so it would be better to either use a dedicated LED driver IC or go with neopixels (individually addressable LEDs).
That´s nice idea, but UNO/LEONARDO only have few pins with PWM, I believe UNO has 6 and LEONARDO 7, so you would not be able to fade all ten. But I plan to create another version with individually addressable LEDs (neopixel), where you would be able to set any color or intensity you want.
Thank you! I agred with the distance between LEDs and diffuser, as well as the R value. The second board with 1K ohm R looks much better, and it´s not trying to make you blind :)
You should check out the Sparkfun Promico. It has an atmega32u4 just like the Leonardo, but it's TINY. I use them in all my projects. It even comes in usb-c or micro-usb. I believe there's a 5v 16MHz, and a 3.3v 8MHz option.
That’s a great suggestion. I specifically wanted to design a shield, as there was a template already available, but I will check that board for future projects
How about using an encoder and by pressing you enable mute? Same pcb can be done with slomo at videos, or zooming at picture viewer or seek a video back and forth. Maybe both in one pcb? Think about it!
@@upir_upir how about to combine 3 pcbs with 3pots to use each one for different project-task. Maybe keeping one arduino and the rest just daughter boards?
It depends where you live and how fast you want it. If you can wait for few weeks, the shipping cost is reasonable, but I agree that for a fast shipping, it´s not that great.
I have a better idea, what if I just upload the gerber files and kicad files, so anyone could make it, or perhaps even make some modifications to it :) I will upload it next week.
I don´t have any comparison, but once figuring out the basics, it was pretty straightforward. The import/export was more of a necessity since I´m using KiCad only for few weeks...
Those were PCB rulers- I did ordered those to see how different solder mask colors looks like. Also, thank you, I´m glad you like it! www.pcbway.com/project/gifts_detail/PCBWay_Ruler_All_Color.html
Undoubtedly a clean work from you as usual! But I am curious, as you've clearly gotten into PCB making, how long till we are getting that OLED screen dial project put on a PCB?
Cool stuff, but i dont see a reason to use leondardo. You could use just nano board and your own application for windows which communicates with COM. Your variant doesnt have feedback, so if I change my volume somehow other than rotating the pot, it's not going to update the LEDs, and if I then rotate the pot the actual volume in the system still will be different untill I rotate the pot to the dead point.
The reason is simplicity. You don´t need any application running on PC if you use Leonardo. But I get your point. Your proposed solution would be more buletproof and more flexible.
@@upir_upir I've figured out a small improvement for you. Idea is to set the volume level to 0 before setting the actual pot value. To make this working for sure we need to click volume down 50 times since each click decreases the volume level by 2 points. I beleive keyboards work on 1000Hz frequency, and we need to send both key down and key up signal to make a click so each will consume 2ms. Which means in total we need 100ms to set the volume to zero, then another from 0ms to 100ms to set the actual volume we need. We can enable this trick for example after 1 minute of not changing the pot value so this delay works only one time per tuning the volume and doesn't get annoying. P.S. This can be futher improved by clicking the mute button, setting the volume to 100 insead of 0 then clicking the mute button again. Windows fades the mute for couple of hundreds of millisecods by my feelings which can compensate the sudden spike of volume to 100% since we don't really want this type of behavior in our high-end device. P.P.S. I know I am a psycho.
This is a generic USB Human Interface Device (HID) - these are like keyboards and mice and don't require any drivers, so you could move it easily between different machines and platforms. No platform-specific software required. :)
Once you take their candy, you're trapped. I can never go back to home-made boards again. Not only can't I produce anything nearly as good myself, I don't think I can even make home-made boards much cheaper.
Thank you. I don´t think that anyone besides me would buy it, but if anyone is interested, there is a link to the source file(s) and you can order it for just a few bucks.
I would think that white PCB would actually make LEDs less visible, but I do plan to do one more iteration with white PCB to confirm my theory. Also, because I think that white PCB would look better with silver knobs.
I would probably need much more knowledge than I have right now, but you can bet that I will use potentiometers/rotary encoders in future videos for sure.
The only reason was to keep everything simple. I could have used the chips that you propose, go with SMD components, use neopixels instead, etc etc. But I wanted to make sure that my first PCB will not be a disaster :)
It was called "Milky Glass", but I´m sure you can get one in your local store if you search for "matte effect", "frosted glass" or something similar. For example, this one looks similar - www.krylon.com/products/frosted-glass-finish/
@@upir_upir Yes, it is :-). It is not quiet as pretty as yours but I still use it to this day. I put a picture of it on pasteboard (hope urls come through): pasteboard.co/cT2PiopaMV3s.png
@@upir_upir thanks so much! i actually just finished my 3d spinning cube from your tutorial (in micropython) and I even made a "manual" mode that controls the angle, size and z offset from potentiometers! I also added an FPS counter and I get around 30FPS
I would love to, but I don´t actually speak nor understand Russian. Please use the automatic translator until I will be able to afford a translator. Thanks!
Being the old fart that I guess I am now, I was expecting to see you lay out your traces by hand, hit it with an arc lamp and then chemically etch out your board. So, really... you haven't made your first PCB yet. Not in my opinion anyway. F'n kids these days...
@@upir_upir I'll give you that... Your project did turn out rather nice as well. We stand on the shoulders of giants though, and I hope that younger generations can acknowledge and appreciate that.
Great project, thank you for sharing. Small note - you speak too fast (sorry, I'm not accepting answer of 'slow it in settings' as it is not affecting the speedy tone and disrupts quality). I know that in TikTok/Shorts/whatever era where everyone is in hurry we tend to hurry everywhere, but this escalates stress. When we talk about projects that's time for focus and engagement, please.
Thank you for your comment and note, I still struggle to find a good balance between too fast and boring. But I also talk quite fast in real life as well, and watch videos of other youtubers on 2x speed..
I was fond on this idea from SONY old hifi ,and now I got it u are really really amazing
Yep, I really like the creative controls on old hi-fi systems, especially with lights around knobs.
You can't convince me that this is your first PCB :)
That´s probably because I haven´t recorded all the endless hours of struggling that I was facing during those three weeks :)
Why that? If you have a little clue about what you are doing the the components and tested it on a breadboard, building a PCB isn’t that hard. it just takes practice to wire it in a way you like it. I ordered my first PCB today. It connects 24 mechanical keys, 8 push encoders, 2 microcontrollers, a display and a few sockets (midi and I2c) together. took me from the idea to my order today around 2-3 weeks. I drew around 15 iterations of the board. A few because of changes, a few because I learned a lot each try, so that I wanted to start over and use what I learned at the end from the beginning on. I ended in a board that cannot be much smaller because of the components. As software (I used KiCad) helps you with not messing up (you can only connect pins when drawing the wires that are connected in the diagram, validity checks etc.) you cannot mess up, as long as you don’t do stuff, that interferes with each other (audio and fast digital transfer etc.). Oh. And I struggled a few days to click order, because it feels so “final”, and you have to commit yourself to ne done at that point.
My though exactly. But it's not that hard to do since any mistakes were probably fixed by the sponsor before printing. Also the title makes it sound like the dude made the PCB,but before u painted your traces, etched your blank and driled the holes you can't claim you made a PCB. lol
Me neither, maybe its your first, but you tell me your fooling around a few weeks which tells me this is version 20 of your very first pcb.. which in fact thus isnt the first one you made.. also, hope you etched it yourself, if not, your showing the pcb you designed, and created by some pcb manufacturer and deffenitely not by you.
@@ClosestNearUtopia did you watch the video? He talked about sending the gerber file to pcbway to get it manufactured
For the first PCB it was very good, I'm impressed. Congratulations
Thank you, Sérgio! I´m glad you like it.
Getting into electronics, robotics with Arduinos and RaspPi's as a hobby. Been wanting to get into pcb designs but being wary. Seeing you video has inspired me to try it. I'm good with Coral Draw/AI and CAD programs. Your video just showed how easy it can be incorporating these programs with the PCB application. Of course, the learning curb at first is the hardest. Can't wait to try it. Thank you for posting such an informative video.
Thank you for your comment. I have been waiting to get into PCB design for many years, and it was great to start, even when the project was as simple as it could be. I would say go for it, even if it will not be perfect the first time, the prices are so reasonable that you can make few iterations. Also, if you already know how to use other vector tools, you can do quite a lot of work in those. There is even an Inkscape plugin that pretty much allows you to design entire PCB and import it into KiCad. Otherwise, importing traces from AI/Corel Draw might be tricky.
If you dont have any pcb design software you could try eagle, its free from what I know of.
That looks awesome! Well done. One possible suggestion: Use a clear acrylic piece for the top. Cut all holes and include the LED holes. The sheet of acrylic spreads the light applied to the side through the material. This way, you get to see your excellent solder mask and the light will transmit through the sheet when pressed against the PCB.
Again, well done!
Thank you for your comment and suggestion! I plan to experiment with different acrylic pieces and I will surely try your idea to see how it looks like. I wasn´t thinking of acrylic in the beginning, but I like the extra touch it adds to the shield.
well explained, I've given in so may times designing the simplest of pcbs
Thank you! And good luck with your projects, I´m sure it will turn out great.
For a first PCB it looks amazing, well done sir 🙌🏽 Now the pcb bug has bitten you and you will want to make pcb's for every single project in the future 😀
I like how you go into the exact details and explain exactly how and what you've done on your projects, makes it super easy for anyone to follow along, especially liked your video where you used the potentiometer with a small animation on the oled screen, it had me hooked from the get go and was great to sit and watch it, well all of your videos thus far have been fantastic👍🏼
With this project I can see you've spent countless hours getting everything ready and set exactly how you want it and in the end it came out looking very professional.
Keep up the great content
Thank you for such a nice comment, I really appreciate it! I hope to keep recording more videos soon, but if you have any specific request for the content, I’m all ears
@upir Any time sir, I give credit where it is due and you have definitely out done yourself with every video. You have also become one of my most favorite content creators to say the least due to the way you do your videos, I really do enjoy your content.
To be honest and for a future video, I would really like to see your take on the Waveshare 2" IPS LCD that runs on SPI with some nice graphics or photos or an animated dial or anything that can be animated, haha.
I recently purchased one of them to hook up to an Arduino Nano for a OBD project I plan to get started on once I have acquired all the parts needed but would be epic to see and hear your take on it. Just keep in mind that it's a 3.3v display and 5v from the UNO will destroy it, hence why it's perfectly suited for my Nano, oh and the examples I've seen, do not show any resistors but I've read up that one requires about 6 x 220ohm resistors for all the lines except VCC and GND.
I also have a 1.5" RGB OLED that I have been having issues with getting to power on and display properly but think it is a dud to be honest and just packed away in my parts bin lol.
Anyways so for some more information on the 2" display I'm referring to, here's a link to the wiki - www.waveshare.com/wiki/2inch_LCD_Module
Oh I love your videos. My only tip to newbies, don't use black, white or purple silk screen. You can't see the tracks, making debugging a nightmare. Only use on the final product.
Good point, the black solder mask is really very opaque, I have tried to put some graphics on the copper layer, but it´s almost invisible.
Hi thankyou I added a cheap ebay remote kit to my pre amp & used your software.
The only difference I used was I only used one 650ohm resistor on the ground side instead of multiple resistors on leds.
That´s great to hear, is there any chance of seeing your creation? I would love to see it!
Upir two things I must suggest
1) the distance between led and the diffuser
2) Use a black acrylic and cut out the slot for led then in that gap cut another acrylic similar to that gap or u can just mask it out but make it a good diffuser , u need higher diffusion . then put another diffusion glass on the top (your wish) / In that way only the defused light will come out and will feel like like a single light source
Thank you for your suggestions! As a matter of fact, I have already ordered different color acrylic (black as well) to see how it would look like.
Enjoy your next long journey of PCBs soldering 🤣🤟🥂🥂 & You did do a wonderful job!👍👍👍
Thanks a lot! I look forward to our future cooperation
@@upir_upir 🥂🥂🥂🥂
Congratulations, now there no stopping
Thank you. Yep, I´m hooked. Now I need to resist the temptation to create PCB for every simple project.
I made several PCBs in college 35 years ago. I still have one I made for a computer clock card in a picture box frame on my desk. I printed it with my name and date on it.
That´s great! I don´t have any free space on my desk, but I´m keeping one in my pocket, also to test the durability :)
Great Thing 👏. I wish you to use RGB colour light and some effects which gives more attractive and nice finish
I wanted to be simple for my first PCB project, but I plan to swap the LEDs with neopixels to support RGB.
Excellent! you just gave me my next project! :)
some ideas for rev. 2 for this project: use smd led and resistors. will look neat and also u can cram from leds (like 40~60) for more resolution between the increments of the volume level.
You can get them assembled from pcbway itself since its tidious for assembly.
Thanks anyway for this wonderful project!
Thank you, I´m glad you like it! I do plan to use the PCB assembly for my next project, also because I don´t think I can solder SMD components (yet).
Once you get bit by the pcb making bug there's no cure!
I can already feel that it´s very addictive :)
I have a schematic I built but I can't seem to find a way to turn it into a pcb very well. It's got far too many components. It has 2 resistors and 2 transistors times 40 plus 2 IC and and 3 sets of header pins for the raspberry pie. I'm not sure what to do with it lol. I can't fund suitable routing. The idea is to bring all the lines to 5v conversions. And expand on the i2c bus. But it's too large, too many parts and I'm about to scrap the whole idea. You did an amazing job. I just wish I could get mine done lol
Thank you for your nice comment! If you are not doing anything extra specific, perhaps there is alraedy an IC that could replace at least some of your components and make the PCB simpler?
You can also have a 4 layer pcb, that would remove the gnd and vcc routing leaving morr space for the signals. If that's still not enough there is 6 and 8 layers pcbs, but those will be more expensize and xomplexe to design
Im surprised you didnt have you friend with the laser cutter etch the acrylic for you. Could have done a reverse etch were everything is etched expect the dial tick marks. Aweosme job on the PCB btw!
I´ve had a lot of plans, but my friend didn´t had much time, so only a clear cur for now. That said, I hope to experiment more in the future.
Amazing job, I will make it just as it looks
Thank you!
two notes.
1. I would use interrupts for the encoder and add capacitors to it.
2. I would use software PWM for controlling the LED brightness.
In the beginning he said potentiometer, did I miss him switching it out for an encoder?
@@ollimartikainen o lol indeed. My bad. I was looking at the part in the video and it looked more like a encoder, then potentiometer :D
Yep, it´s a simple potentiometer. But replacing it with a encoder would be possible and would probably make more sense as the volume control is relative and not absolute.
a nice update by software would be to make the last active led fade from 0-100% according to the level in the current rotational part
Hardware as well, he would need to use a MOSFET to control the LED brightness through PWM I think.
@@davidmontenegro3862 there is nowhere near enough current being sunk to require a mosfet to switch it
@@modelt8951 yeah, I searched for it just after I commented, my bad
I like the idea, but unfortunatelly not all Arduino pins can do PWM, so it would be better to either use a dedicated LED driver IC or go with neopixels (individually addressable LEDs).
would be cool if you fade the LEDs in and out as they enter and exit, proportional to the knob position
That´s nice idea, but UNO/LEONARDO only have few pins with PWM, I believe UNO has 6 and LEONARDO 7, so you would not be able to fade all ten. But I plan to create another version with individually addressable LEDs (neopixel), where you would be able to set any color or intensity you want.
@@upir_upir very cool, looking forward to that :]
this is nice! best is have distance between LED and diffuser. try smd LED and higher value limiting R.
Thank you! I agred with the distance between LEDs and diffuser, as well as the R value. The second board with 1K ohm R looks much better, and it´s not trying to make you blind :)
Well done.
Thank you!
You should check out the Sparkfun Promico. It has an atmega32u4 just like the Leonardo, but it's TINY. I use them in all my projects.
It even comes in usb-c or micro-usb. I believe there's a 5v 16MHz, and a 3.3v 8MHz option.
That’s a great suggestion. I specifically wanted to design a shield, as there was a template already available, but I will check that board for future projects
How about using an encoder and by pressing you enable mute? Same pcb can be done with slomo at videos, or zooming at picture viewer or seek a video back and forth. Maybe both in one pcb? Think about it!
That´s a good idea! I might create another version with rotary encoder, but I wanted to make it simple, thus using potentiometer this time.
@@upir_upir how about to combine 3 pcbs with 3pots to use each one for different project-task. Maybe keeping one arduino and the rest just daughter boards?
Cette astuce pour des Robux c'est un vrai miracle, je suis trop sur le kif !
English please? Thank you.
Fabulous !...cheers.
Thank you!
Great PCB, but ooff... that shipping cost :/
It depends where you live and how fast you want it. If you can wait for few weeks, the shipping cost is reasonable, but I agree that for a fast shipping, it´s not that great.
I think you can use haptic feedback using a simple vibration motor.
If you use it as volume control, you will get haptic feedback from your music if you push it all the way up to 100% :)
man you gotta need to sell your own product RIGHT NOW. maybe just like this, but i'd expect it to have smaller profile. damn i like it
I have a better idea, what if I just upload the gerber files and kicad files, so anyone could make it, or perhaps even make some modifications to it :) I will upload it next week.
ummmmmm ya KiCad has come a long way. Very interesting technique of exporting and importing the design.
I don´t have any comparison, but once figuring out the basics, it was pretty straightforward. The import/export was more of a necessity since I´m using KiCad only for few weeks...
What were the other pcbs in the box? They seem a sort of design reference, how can you get them?
Amazing work by the way
Those were PCB rulers- I did ordered those to see how different solder mask colors looks like.
Also, thank you, I´m glad you like it!
www.pcbway.com/project/gifts_detail/PCBWay_Ruler_All_Color.html
Undoubtedly a clean work from you as usual! But I am curious, as you've clearly gotten into PCB making, how long till we are getting that OLED screen dial project put on a PCB?
Thank you for your comment. You must be reading my mind, because that´s exactly what I would like to try soon!
@@upir_upir Can't wait!
Cool stuff, but i dont see a reason to use leondardo. You could use just nano board and your own application for windows which communicates with COM. Your variant doesnt have feedback, so if I change my volume somehow other than rotating the pot, it's not going to update the LEDs, and if I then rotate the pot the actual volume in the system still will be different untill I rotate the pot to the dead point.
The reason is simplicity. You don´t need any application running on PC if you use Leonardo. But I get your point. Your proposed solution would be more buletproof and more flexible.
@@upir_upir I've figured out a small improvement for you. Idea is to set the volume level to 0 before setting the actual pot value. To make this working for sure we need to click volume down 50 times since each click decreases the volume level by 2 points. I beleive keyboards work on 1000Hz frequency, and we need to send both key down and key up signal to make a click so each will consume 2ms. Which means in total we need 100ms to set the volume to zero, then another from 0ms to 100ms to set the actual volume we need. We can enable this trick for example after 1 minute of not changing the pot value so this delay works only one time per tuning the volume and doesn't get annoying.
P.S. This can be futher improved by clicking the mute button, setting the volume to 100 insead of 0 then clicking the mute button again. Windows fades the mute for couple of hundreds of millisecods by my feelings which can compensate the sudden spike of volume to 100% since we don't really want this type of behavior in our high-end device.
P.P.S. I know I am a psycho.
This is a generic USB Human Interface Device (HID) - these are like keyboards and mice and don't require any drivers, so you could move it easily between different machines and platforms. No platform-specific software required. :)
Insert PCBWay as The Child-catcher from Chitty-Chitty-Bang-Bang.
I´m sorry, but I don´t think I understand. What do you mean?
Once you take their candy, you're trapped. I can never go back to home-made boards again. Not only can't I produce anything nearly as good myself, I don't think I can even make home-made boards much cheaper.
Shit's liiiit, make a shop and sell them ? IDK I'm sure it'd be successful tho (is there a way to make the leds change colors / selection maybe ?)
Thank you. I don´t think that anyone besides me would buy it, but if anyone is interested, there is a link to the source file(s) and you can order it for just a few bucks.
You could make the pcb white so it would defuse the light without having to use the acrylic
I would think that white PCB would actually make LEDs less visible, but I do plan to do one more iteration with white PCB to confirm my theory. Also, because I think that white PCB would look better with silver knobs.
When he said "like your mouse" i almost thought he was gonna say "your mom"
I don´t quite know how, but I´m sure every mom has enough suporpowers to control your PC :)
Great video. What spray paint did you use to blur the plastic part at the end of the video?
Thank you, it was some generic Matt spray for windows.
@@upir_upir Thanks for your reply!
you should make it with rgbw leds, lower volumes are white. and as you get past 75% volume they all shift to red
Yep, I will try another iteration with color LEDs, and possible SMDs with assembly, so I don´t have to solder all those components :)
Nice video, thanks :)
You are welcome!
Cool
Thank you!
Waiting audio amplifier for next project
I would probably need much more knowledge than I have right now, but you can bet that I will use potentiometers/rotary encoders in future videos for sure.
I really need to learn how to make pcb's.
You should, it’s a lot of fun!
cool
Thank you!
Why use all the controller pins and spend them on LEDs when you could put a MUX 4051 or 74HC595?
The only reason was to keep everything simple. I could have used the chips that you propose, go with SMD components, use neopixels instead, etc etc. But I wanted to make sure that my first PCB will not be a disaster :)
also there is nothing else to do with those pins. so why waste a mux?
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What paint did you use to blur acrylic part?
Thanks
It was called "Milky Glass", but I´m sure you can get one in your local store if you search for "matte effect", "frosted glass" or something similar. For example, this one looks similar - www.krylon.com/products/frosted-glass-finish/
@@upir_upir Ok, I'll try. Because the effect after sandpaper is not as good. Thanks again)
probably the definition of over engineering(with the 'giant' arduino microcontroller underneath) but as a beginner I liked it
Thank you! It was meant to be simple, and although UNO is quite big, it´s one of the simplest microcontrolers to use.
Lol, my first PCB was also a pc volume controller
What a coincidence! Do you perhaps have any photos anywhere to share? I would love to see it.
@@upir_upir Yes, it is :-). It is not quiet as pretty as yours but I still use it to this day. I put a picture of it on pasteboard (hope urls come through): pasteboard.co/cT2PiopaMV3s.png
Looks great! You have even 3d printed the knob, is that correct?
@@upir_upir Thanks! Yes, the knob is 3D-printed and I used heat-shrink for the membrane buttons.
hey, can you do a tutorial using the raspberry pi pico?
Sure thing, I hope to explore more microcontrollers soon.
@@upir_upir thanks so much! i actually just finished my 3d spinning cube from your tutorial (in micropython) and I even made a "manual" mode that controls the angle, size and z offset from potentiometers! I also added an FPS counter and I get around 30FPS
great but too long PCBWay commercial
Sorry about that, but feel free to skip it.
May be this must be the 100th time this guy making the same pcb……😅
That would be kind of boring :)
I doubt very much that this was your first pcb!
What makes you think that? Obviously it would be hard to prove, but you have my word that this really was my first PCB ever created.
The initial 0is fixed or not fixed
What do you mean?
I like big knobs and I can not lie!
Well, about that... I would rather not comment it :)
It's normal for children. But the author is not a child.
Was that a reply to some other comment?
I would be grateful if you add Russian subtitles for your videos.
I would love to, but I don´t actually speak nor understand Russian. Please use the automatic translator until I will be able to afford a translator. Thanks!
Okay, I'll think of something.
Being the old fart that I guess I am now, I was expecting to see you lay out your traces by hand, hit it with an arc lamp and then chemically etch out your board. So, really... you haven't made your first PCB yet. Not in my opinion anyway. F'n kids these days...
Well, I might try that as well, but the video title is "my first PCB", not "I have made my first PCB" :)
@@upir_upir I'll give you that... Your project did turn out rather nice as well. We stand on the shoulders of giants though, and I hope that younger generations can acknowledge and appreciate that.
Ну я бы сделал все бы проще и надёжнее. Без использования мк-ра.
English, please? Thanks!
Great project, thank you for sharing. Small note - you speak too fast (sorry, I'm not accepting answer of 'slow it in settings' as it is not affecting the speedy tone and disrupts quality). I know that in TikTok/Shorts/whatever era where everyone is in hurry we tend to hurry everywhere, but this escalates stress. When we talk about projects that's time for focus and engagement, please.
Thank you for your comment and note, I still struggle to find a good balance between too fast and boring. But I also talk quite fast in real life as well, and watch videos of other youtubers on 2x speed..
You speak too fast I can't understand 😔
Sorry for that, please slow down the playback perhaps?