I have a Coleman 220k lantern. One day it was hanging above me and started spraying fuel all over the place and onto me. When I took it apart the grafite roping was in peices. Now I know how to fix it!
Failed graphite packing shouldn't result in "spray". Usually it results in seeping around the valve stem or, at very worst, a small drip. Also, a 220K is a gasoline model. It's not designed to run on kerosene and won't run properly with it.
@King ColeMan I meant coleman fuel, was typing that quite late at night and went straight to kerosene lol. I had the tank pressurized, and it was spraying out of this one little area. I do believe it would spray with the packing damaged as it was.
All I can find is the 3/32" smooth graphite rope that squishes like tar. The rigid Master Plumber 601 that you use is sold in Canada but I'm having a hard time finally an equivalent here in the states. Guess I'll order the preformed packing from Old Coleman Parts which takes a week to get it.
Thank you so much for this. I plan on attempting this on my model 143 lamp, But I am unable to find that style of packing here in my area. The stuff we have is different. Is there a suitable packing that can be obtained from Amazon, Home Depot, Lowes, or Ace Hardware? I would really appreciate any advice or recommendations. Thank you!
Old Coleman Parts sells some graphite ribbon. It's not the same style I use in the video and I have no experience with it, but I've heard it works. My suggestions would be to check with a place that specialises in plumbing. In the past I've found the twisted rope at Home Depot, but not for some years. Two independent home improvement stores told me that could special order it, but they don't stock it. The big plumbing supplier, however, keeps it in stock.
Thanks for the excellent video. I noted the Master Plumber 106 package and the shiny outer coating of the packing material. I am unable to find Master Plumber in online searches in Wisconsin, USA. I have looked at other options for graphite string in big box stores but none have the shiny outer coating. Only a tacky graphite string (not the clumpy rope you said to avoid). I did purchase one but it just packed down to a tacky ooze of sorts. I did search the Master Plumber online site but could locate the #106. Im thinking shipping from CA would lead me to just purchase the pre made stem packing from Old Coleman parts although I still have a shipping charge for such a light item. Anyone else from USA reach out to with alternative? Your product once more self forming. Thank you!
The only place I can find any of this stuff is the plumbing section it looks exactly the same but I'm not sure if it is. What other part of the store should I look in.
@@king.coleman was only asking because you said not to buy it out of the plumbing section in your video. I'm guessing just as long as it's not rope with Gunk on the outside like you were just grabbing it actually looks like all graphite with no rope then that is the kind I need to get right?
Ah. I didn't mean not to buy what's sold in the plumbing section, only to be cautious what you buy. If you can find the real graphite rope it'll be in the plumbing section, but in the same faucet repair section you are also likely to find a different sort of packing rope that will not work.
@@king.coleman really appreciate all your help and quick reply. Going on a camping trip and my 413e stove from 1954 has started leaking on me around the valve and the lighting lever is really hard to turn so I'm guessing I need to redo the packing in both and I don't have time to wait on oldcolemanparts to ship it to me. Your video saved my life and hopefully this works for my stove.
The graphite in the tip cleaner assembly isn't replaceable in the same way the packing on the valve stem is, because the tip cleaner assemblies were never meant to be taken apart. On a 200 tip cleaner, if it's got a simple bent wire actuator, you could (in theory) heat that wire, straighten it out, then slide the packing nut over it, replace the graphite as in this video, then put it back together and bend the wire again. If it's got a looped actuator, forget it.
Yeah, there isn't really anything you can do with those. You can't remove the actuator from the assembly, you can only unscrew the packing nut and slip it over the bent/looped end of the actuator. It's possible if the actuator is the earlier bent wire type and you straighten it, but if it's got the loop in it, it's not going to happen.
@@king.coleman I was able to fix it today I got some 3/32 rope graphite from hardware store packed and bedded it inside there with the old packing still inside then tightened the nut back Down spin the lever few times then tightened more it worked fixed my leak the ole Coleman 200 T66 is going strong 💪 Thank You just thought I’d let you know
I can't say for certain. I've never seen it sold in any other sizes and the graphite rope I buy gives no size specification. All I can say is that it's very roughly about 1/8" in diameter. That said, It's not consistently round. Diameter really shouldn't matter. Larger or smaller rope will work just a well as long as it's not so bulky that you can't get it into the valve or inside the nut. When you tighten the nut, the rope is compressed into a neat cylinder regardless of what shape or diameter it started with.
Sorry for the query in comments before taking the time to read this thread. I'll sort it out with all the information I found there! I'm not the first to be on the search!
Hello, I'm trying to remove the stem valve from a 236 lantern. ( A mexican clon). Do You have a video how to do it? I don't know if I can attach a picture thru this message.
I'm not sure what you mean by "stem valve". If you're referring to the main valve, it just unscrews from the fount. The thread sealant used in the factory may hold tightly, but if you turn it upside down and clamp the valve in a vise it should unscrew without too much trouble.
@@king.coleman I undersand how to remove the whole valve system from the fount. I mean how to extract or remove the stem where the wheel is attached. I already unscrew the nut. After that, you just pull it with a pair of pliers? . I'm afraid I can't send you a pic in this message.
Ah, the valve stem. Once the valve stem nut is off, just unscrew the valve stem. Some will come out easily, some will feel like they've tightened and forcing it past that point will free it up, sometimes you'll need to pull it free with pliers (or reattach the knob and use that to pull).
@@king.coleman Thanks a bundle. I was seeing OCP (old coleman parts) and they sell two sizes of graphite packing. I will see the one that fits, feel free to answer if you wish.
If you're referring to the lever that actuates the cleaning needlew, I didn't. In theory you can disassemble the cleaning actuator (only if the lever is straight, not looped) by straightening out the lever and sliding the nut and packing over it, but if the packing there is bad, standard practise is to replace the whole lever assembly. It's not really a serviceable part. If the lever is hard to turn, you can try loosening the nut, then tightening it back up after rotating the lever several times. You can also try heating it just a bit with a propane torch. If it's stuck, that'll often free it up. But at the end of the day, if you're not happy with how it turns, you'll just need to replace the whole assembly.
Can you provide info on the size of the graphite rope you are using? I see some online options, but am not sure if they are too big or too small. Thanks! Great video!
That's when you have to find a sharp objection and dig it out. I put the nut on a piece of wood and use a small, sharp flathead screw driver. If it doesn't come out easily, I'll take a larger flathead screwdriver and drive it into the nut with a hammer to break the packing into quarters.
@@king.coleman Another suggestion I got was to hand twist as large a drill bit as will fit to remove the bulk of the packing, then the last little bit should come out easily with a brush. I went with your method, I suppose either method would be just as messy, lol.
Surely this channel should be called 'old' king Coleman :)
Thanks to the very informative video.
I have a Coleman 220k lantern. One day it was hanging above me and started spraying fuel all over the place and onto me. When I took it apart the grafite roping was in peices. Now I know how to fix it!
Failed graphite packing shouldn't result in "spray". Usually it results in seeping around the valve stem or, at very worst, a small drip. Also, a 220K is a gasoline model. It's not designed to run on kerosene and won't run properly with it.
@King ColeMan I meant coleman fuel, was typing that quite late at night and went straight to kerosene lol. I had the tank pressurized, and it was spraying out of this one little area. I do believe it would spray with the packing damaged as it was.
Great video, thanks so much. Got some graphite rope on Amazon and going to repack my valves on my Coleman and Kamplite lanterns. God Bless
I have used that method for a few years and about 20 gpa. I think you suggested it to me on fb. Thanks.
Your videos are excellent! Thank you.
All I can find is the 3/32" smooth graphite rope that squishes like tar. The rigid Master Plumber 601 that you use is sold in Canada but I'm having a hard time finally an equivalent here in the states. Guess I'll order the preformed packing from Old Coleman Parts which takes a week to get it.
Thank you so much for this. I plan on attempting this on my model 143 lamp, But I am unable to find that style of packing here in my area. The stuff we have is different. Is there a suitable packing that can be obtained from Amazon, Home Depot, Lowes, or Ace Hardware? I would really appreciate any advice or recommendations. Thank you!
Old Coleman Parts sells some graphite ribbon. It's not the same style I use in the video and I have no experience with it, but I've heard it works. My suggestions would be to check with a place that specialises in plumbing. In the past I've found the twisted rope at Home Depot, but not for some years. Two independent home improvement stores told me that could special order it, but they don't stock it. The big plumbing supplier, however, keeps it in stock.
Thanks for the excellent video. I noted the Master Plumber 106 package and the shiny outer coating of the packing material. I am unable to find Master Plumber in online searches in Wisconsin, USA. I have looked at other options for graphite string in big box stores but none have the shiny outer coating. Only a tacky graphite string (not the clumpy rope you said to avoid). I did purchase one but it just packed down to a tacky ooze of sorts. I did search the Master Plumber online site but could locate the #106. Im thinking shipping from CA would lead me to just purchase the pre made stem packing from Old Coleman parts although I still have a shipping charge for such a light item. Anyone else from USA reach out to with alternative? Your product once more self forming. Thank you!
thank you very informative
The only place I can find any of this stuff is the plumbing section it looks exactly the same but I'm not sure if it is. What other part of the store should I look in.
Yes, it's a plumbing product. I buy mine from a commercial plumbing supplier.
@@king.coleman was only asking because you said not to buy it out of the plumbing section in your video. I'm guessing just as long as it's not rope with Gunk on the outside like you were just grabbing it actually looks like all graphite with no rope then that is the kind I need to get right?
Ah. I didn't mean not to buy what's sold in the plumbing section, only to be cautious what you buy. If you can find the real graphite rope it'll be in the plumbing section, but in the same faucet repair section you are also likely to find a different sort of packing rope that will not work.
@@king.coleman really appreciate all your help and quick reply. Going on a camping trip and my 413e stove from 1954 has started leaking on me around the valve and the lighting lever is really hard to turn so I'm guessing I need to redo the packing in both and I don't have time to wait on oldcolemanparts to ship it to me. Your video saved my life and hopefully this works for my stove.
Good video. Thanks 😊
Appreciate your videos😎
I have a Coleman 200 T66 that the Tip Cleaner Packing needs replaced can you do video showing how to do this on the tip cleaner packing Please 🙏
The graphite in the tip cleaner assembly isn't replaceable in the same way the packing on the valve stem is, because the tip cleaner assemblies were never meant to be taken apart. On a 200 tip cleaner, if it's got a simple bent wire actuator, you could (in theory) heat that wire, straighten it out, then slide the packing nut over it, replace the graphite as in this video, then put it back together and bend the wire again. If it's got a looped actuator, forget it.
@@king.coleman yes it’s the Canadian 200 it’s Looped Thank You Sir
Yeah, there isn't really anything you can do with those. You can't remove the actuator from the assembly, you can only unscrew the packing nut and slip it over the bent/looped end of the actuator. It's possible if the actuator is the earlier bent wire type and you straighten it, but if it's got the loop in it, it's not going to happen.
@@king.coleman I was able to fix it today I got some 3/32 rope graphite from hardware store packed and bedded it inside there with the old packing still inside then tightened the nut back Down spin the lever few times then tightened more it worked fixed my leak the ole Coleman 200 T66 is going strong 💪 Thank You just thought I’d let you know
Good for you. I'm glad to hear you found a solution.
What size graphite packing string did you use ? I see it available in different diameters . . .
I can't say for certain. I've never seen it sold in any other sizes and the graphite rope I buy gives no size specification. All I can say is that it's very roughly about 1/8" in diameter. That said, It's not consistently round. Diameter really shouldn't matter. Larger or smaller rope will work just a well as long as it's not so bulky that you can't get it into the valve or inside the nut. When you tighten the nut, the rope is compressed into a neat cylinder regardless of what shape or diameter it started with.
@@king.coleman I get what you’re saying, and thank you ! Just a quick check of Amazon shows a bunch of different sizes, prompting the question.
Sorry for the query in comments before taking the time to read this thread. I'll sort it out with all the information I found there! I'm not the first to be on the search!
Hello,
I'm trying to remove the stem valve from a 236 lantern. ( A mexican clon). Do You have a video how to do it? I don't know if I can attach a picture thru this message.
I'm not sure what you mean by "stem valve". If you're referring to the main valve, it just unscrews from the fount. The thread sealant used in the factory may hold tightly, but if you turn it upside down and clamp the valve in a vise it should unscrew without too much trouble.
@@king.coleman
I undersand how to remove the whole valve system from the fount. I mean how to extract or remove the stem where the wheel is attached. I already unscrew the nut. After that, you just pull it with a pair of pliers? . I'm afraid I can't send you a pic in this message.
Ah, the valve stem. Once the valve stem nut is off, just unscrew the valve stem. Some will come out easily, some will feel like they've tightened and forcing it past that point will free it up, sometimes you'll need to pull it free with pliers (or reattach the knob and use that to pull).
@@king.coleman
Thanks a bundle. I was seeing OCP (old coleman parts) and they sell two sizes of graphite packing. I will see the one that fits, feel free to answer if you wish.
The 236 valve uses the larger of the two graphite packings.
Hiw do you remove the lever opsite the turn knob?
If you're referring to the lever that actuates the cleaning needlew, I didn't. In theory you can disassemble the cleaning actuator (only if the lever is straight, not looped) by straightening out the lever and sliding the nut and packing over it, but if the packing there is bad, standard practise is to replace the whole lever assembly. It's not really a serviceable part. If the lever is hard to turn, you can try loosening the nut, then tightening it back up after rotating the lever several times. You can also try heating it just a bit with a propane torch. If it's stuck, that'll often free it up. But at the end of the day, if you're not happy with how it turns, you'll just need to replace the whole assembly.
Thank you!
Can you provide info on the size of the graphite rope you are using? I see some online options, but am not sure if they are too big or too small. Thanks! Great video!
I"m not sure how helpful I can be as I've never seen it sold in different sizes. I'd estimate the twist about 1/8" in diameter on average.
@@king.coleman the stuff I can buy locally is 3/32 in. Thanks for the reply.
This is the product I use.
www.masterplumber.ca/product/graphite-packing/
Thanks!@@king.coleman
Or...the packing comes off still jammed inside the nut. What now?
That's when you have to find a sharp objection and dig it out. I put the nut on a piece of wood and use a small, sharp flathead screw driver. If it doesn't come out easily, I'll take a larger flathead screwdriver and drive it into the nut with a hammer to break the packing into quarters.
@@king.coleman Another suggestion I got was to hand twist as large a drill bit as will fit to remove the bulk of the packing, then the last little bit should come out easily with a brush. I went with your method, I suppose either method would be just as messy, lol.
I've done that as well, but found the screwdriver method more efficient.
Best tool is a small pick.
I used this on a 249. Not as easy as the 220.