Thanks for letting me know what I've been doing for years with painting houses. Now I've got to do it with some varnish on a project I'm working on. Keep the good stuff coming.
We found when outside, must thin , and let it kick before flowing. For us a must. 16 years flowing on a trawler. Always in the morning before sun, just after the dew.
Good stuff, best of luck with your deck! If you want to learn more about the subject then take a look at my course: danleeboatbuilding.co.uk/courses/varnishing-course-10-day-yacht-varnisher/
I live in a cramped house where every room is occupied but i have some items to varnish. I normally leave the still wet varnished items outside to dry for 2hr but then would bring them indoors to finish curing once it reaches the dry to the touch stage for the next 3 days or however long the manufacture's suggestion says for. I don't think i can do that now because the room i used to leave them in is a bedroom now. Does varnish still continue to cure on their own if we place the varnished items in an airtight container? I don't want to be breathing fumes but i have small items needing varnishing. It's not furniture or anything like that, they're tiny art projects.
It is slightly wetted out with varnish. Usually a light dip in the roller tray with the majority then drawn out against the edge of the tray/cup before use.
My favourite brush is a Purdy Monarch Elite but in reality almost any brush is good providing it is a good quality one. Don't be afraid to spend £20-30 on a brush, just look after it!
@@DanLeeBoatbuilding Hi Dan. I'm trying to learn about brushes as well. 1. Regarding the Monarch, I thought for oil based varnishes like spar you're supposed to use a soft bristle natural brush? 2. Should I be looking for a 3" flat sash brush to do a lapstrake hull? Are the angled sashes good here or best stick with flat?
If I have some pine which I'm treating with Yacht varnish and I'm finding there are areas if the wood which are not accepting the varnish, what happening there? I've been back over the sections with sand paper yet it still refuses to take the varnish. Cheers for any thoughts
@@troytempest290 errr…nnooOOoo 😅 Is that a thing? In the end, instead of listening to my dad, I did what I should’ve done in the first place and sanded it all back to bare wood and opted to use multiple coats of Osmo hard counter top oil instead. It turned out MUCH better!
"Tipping" is explained at the start. If you find the presentation too slow, why don't you either (a) switch off, or (b) drag the cursor to get a few snapshots of what is being shown.
Nice show. I usually rub in the first coat of varnish but now I’m thinking it’s pretty silly and should try your way. I just thought it would stick better
Thanks for letting me know what I've been doing for years with painting houses. Now I've got to do it with some varnish on a project I'm working on. Keep the good stuff coming.
We found when outside, must thin , and let it kick before flowing. For us a must. 16 years flowing on a trawler. Always in the morning before sun, just after the dew.
Have a pair of sacrificial tweezers for pulling out loose stuff hairs fibers quickly
Excellent. Do you use a flow additive?
Thanx brother,that just tipped the scale to take on roll n tipping my deck 👍
Good stuff, best of luck with your deck! If you want to learn more about the subject then take a look at my course: danleeboatbuilding.co.uk/courses/varnishing-course-10-day-yacht-varnisher/
Good info as usual, Dan. Note that you're using brushes with synthetic bristles, not natural bristle brushes. Unusual compared with others?
Yes, synthetic is my personal preference over natural 👍
A huge help thank you :>)
I live in a cramped house where every room is occupied but i have some items to varnish. I normally leave the still wet varnished items outside to dry for 2hr but then would bring them indoors to finish curing once it reaches the dry to the touch stage for the next 3 days or however long the manufacture's suggestion says for. I don't think i can do that now because the room i used to leave them in is a bedroom now. Does varnish still continue to cure on their own if we place the varnished items in an airtight container? I don't want to be breathing fumes but i have small items needing varnishing. It's not furniture or anything like that, they're tiny art projects.
Thank you for sharing.
Might be worth straining the varnish.
Hi Dan, is the brush you use for tipping dry when you start the process. Regards David
It is slightly wetted out with varnish. Usually a light dip in the roller tray with the majority then drawn out against the edge of the tray/cup before use.
Would you use the same brush technique when flowing out paint? Thanks!
Yes, if you are using a traditional Yacht enamel or similar, the practice is exactly the same.
Hey Dan, love your videos. What type of brush do you recommend for tipping??
My favourite brush is a Purdy Monarch Elite but in reality almost any brush is good providing it is a good quality one. Don't be afraid to spend £20-30 on a brush, just look after it!
@@DanLeeBoatbuilding … back in 1983 , I learned that spending the money on a badger-hair brush made the difference to achieve an excellent result !!!
@@DanLeeBoatbuilding Hi Dan. I'm trying to learn about brushes as well.
1. Regarding the Monarch, I thought for oil based varnishes like spar you're supposed to use a soft bristle natural brush?
2. Should I be looking for a 3" flat sash brush to do a lapstrake hull? Are the angled sashes good here or best stick with flat?
What brush you recommend to use/buy?
Can’t find the one you are using at your online shop
The Purdy Monarch Elite is my preferred brush for all varnish and paint work.
How about vertical jamb
Ceiling side of jamb?
Tip top!
😃
If I have some pine which I'm treating with Yacht varnish and I'm finding there are areas if the wood which are not accepting the varnish, what happening there?
I've been back over the sections with sand paper yet it still refuses to take the varnish.
Cheers for any thoughts
Have you applied sanding sealer prior to varnish..?
@@troytempest290 errr…nnooOOoo
😅
Is that a thing?
In the end, instead of listening to my dad, I did what I should’ve done in the first place and sanded it all back to bare wood and opted to use multiple coats of Osmo hard counter top oil instead.
It turned out MUCH better!
Is that a foam roller?
Yes, a Rota superfine roller.
Maybe is cause imma city folk, but is it me or is this video sound more natural with 1.25 speed...😅
"Just the tip"
I cant beleive how much nonsense you talk for a simple simple job, its unbeleivable, you must like the sound of your own voice 😂
👆 this is what you get on UA-cam when you try and make a slow paced video in which you actually take the time to explain something properly 🤷♂️
@@DanLeeBoatbuilding I quite agree. If you don't like it, switch off, and don't moan. Nobody is forcing you to watch this.
You are talking to much and not really saying anything. Most importantly you didn't start off with a definition of tipping
"Tipping" is explained at the start. If you find the presentation too slow, why don't you either (a) switch off, or (b) drag the cursor to get a few snapshots of what is being shown.
Nice show. I usually rub in the first coat of varnish but now I’m thinking it’s pretty silly and should try your way. I just thought it would stick better
If I have stained the wood then I usually brush and cloth off the first coat. It helps to set the stain into the grain without pooling of the colour.