If you're using the paste that comes with the tormek, it's a 6k grit aluminum oxide. The japanese waterstone from tormek is 4k. Honestly though, I'd recommend sanding the wheel down with some 120 grit sand paper, get as much of that compound off as you can, and load it with some 1 micron gunny juice. The problem with aluminum oxide is when you get into the more exotic steels, it just causes carbide tearout when the particle size gets too fine. You can't go wrong with 1 micron diamond and it makes a good final step right after the 4k wheel.
your doing many things wrong, always stand behind the machine not in front of it!!! your first stone are not round, it should be rounded with the lath tool, the jig that holds the knife must be parallel to the edge and the screw that sets how thick the blade is must be set rigth so the knife is in center of the jig clamps , when you sharpen the knife with the jigg, never swing the knife when you come to the tipp!!!!!!! only lift the handle an the knife straigth up!!! after you have sharpen the knife , never leave the stone in the water and after your one, let the stone run dry for 10 min atleast!! so the water can leave the stone dry, otherwise it will not stay round for long! sorry for my bad english
Great video, but I like to know which jig do you recommend when sharpening a blade that is 3.5” long with one side bevel, the blade is similar to planer blade. Thanks
If it’s a knife then the knife jig should work, but if it’s a too then the the tool holder will work, there is one specifically made for chisels as planar blades, that should work well, it’s it’s single bevel remember to remove the burr on the opposite side once you get it sharp.
I think the t4 is fantastic on flat edges, like chisel or scissors, but where you need to manually introduce a curve, as you find on most knives, the possibility of error is magnified. If you take care you can get a really good edge, especially if you add the Japanese waterstone into the equation, but for knives I prefer to use the Tsprof, gives me more control.
You were doing good till you put that stone on the 4000 grit stone. When I saw that all the blood brained from my eyeballs and I went blind. Please edit that part out as it was painful to watch. You do good on tips not something everyone does well on a Tormek style machine doing knives.
Great Video, very informative. I like how the absence of editing really gives a feel on how long the sharpening process takes.
If you're using the paste that comes with the tormek, it's a 6k grit aluminum oxide. The japanese waterstone from tormek is 4k. Honestly though, I'd recommend sanding the wheel down with some 120 grit sand paper, get as much of that compound off as you can, and load it with some 1 micron gunny juice. The problem with aluminum oxide is when you get into the more exotic steels, it just causes carbide tearout when the particle size gets too fine. You can't go wrong with 1 micron diamond and it makes a good final step right after the 4k wheel.
your doing many things wrong, always stand behind the machine not in front of it!!! your first stone are not round, it should be rounded with the lath tool, the jig that holds the knife must be parallel to the edge and the screw that sets how thick the blade is must be set rigth so the knife is in center of the jig clamps , when you sharpen the knife with the jigg, never swing the knife when you come to the tipp!!!!!!! only lift the handle an the knife straigth up!!! after you have sharpen the knife , never leave the stone in the water and after your one, let the stone run dry for 10 min atleast!! so the water can leave the stone dry, otherwise it will not stay round for long! sorry for my bad english
It’s wrong angle,if you adjust 20 it means 20*2=40
Great video, but I like to know which jig do you recommend when sharpening a blade that is 3.5” long with one side bevel, the blade is similar to planer blade. Thanks
If it’s a knife then the knife jig should work, but if it’s a too then the the tool holder will work, there is one specifically made for chisels as planar blades, that should work well, it’s it’s single bevel remember to remove the burr on the opposite side once you get it sharp.
Why don't you recommend the T-4 for knife sharpening?
I think the t4 is fantastic on flat edges, like chisel or scissors, but where you need to manually introduce a curve, as you find on most knives, the possibility of error is magnified.
If you take care you can get a really good edge, especially if you add the Japanese waterstone into the equation, but for knives I prefer to use the Tsprof, gives me more control.
thank you for your response.
You were doing good till you put that stone on the 4000 grit stone. When I saw that all the blood brained from my eyeballs and I went blind. Please edit that part out as it was painful to watch. You do good on tips not something everyone does well on a Tormek style machine doing knives.
Well it’s partly laziness, I do need to learn to edit etc but sometimes the whole truth is the best bet.