The jerky corners in that adaptive clearing toolpath are caused by the CAM outputting a bunch of small linear segments to replicate intended toolpath. You can't really "turn on" high speed machining as there are a bunch of settings in both the CAM and on the machine that affect this behavior. First, most CAM programs will allow you to define a tolerance for the linear interpolation. In Fusion, this is set to 0.0004" by default, which means that all those linear segments added together can't deviate from the intended spline path by more than 0.0004". This is great for a finishing strategy, but far too small for a roughing toolpath. I usually increase it to 0.005". The machine also has its own tolerance which is controlled by G187. Haas calls this "high speed machining" but that's sort of a misnomer because it's not some magic button that makes everything fast. It's really just the tolerance of the motion planning algorithm. Your choice of G187 and your CAM tolerance both need to be considered as a pair for the intended results. In addition, I'd recommend setting your CAM program to output arcs instead of lines during the roughing phase. In Fusion this is called "smoothing" and this typically allows for huge reductions in the length of the code and improved surface finishes.
Great videos Jason. Just grind the screws a bit shorter, save yourself a trip. Also, I used to use a bandsaw for cutting aluminum, but got tired of how slow it is. Just get a chop saw with carbide tipped teeth, saws through aluminum easily.
Pro-tip. I've had issues breaking blades on a band saw when I cut material on the long side of the stock. Turn your block to where it's oriented perpendicular to the base and it will increase band saw blade life.
I've had the blade walk from the intended path by cutting too long on the narrow side. Once it starts to drift off center you're starting over. A good sharp blade w/ decent lube/chip clear will always do the trick.
That is definitely a good observation. I suppose do whatever works for you. I'm using an automatic band saw so it controls the cut rate for me which should eliminate the blade walking issue. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Hello Jason, working in a mold shop our CNC mills all have a aluminum 1 inch plate on 6 inch ribs that is the entire x and y axis travel. Mini Mill 2 ribs our other bigger machines 3 ribs, these ribs give us room for our hands to fit under the plate to bolt our molds down and do the other side of the mold. It gives up some z travel but this is seldom a problem. We used a smaller vise on the Mini Mill. This allows us to use and save the many work offsets. I consider the aluminum plate a spoil board when it gets too many hole we put on a new one. Our mills original tables are all pristine, tools never come close to it. . I think nothing of drilling and tapping bolt holes and reaming dowel holes to mount a part and saving the work offset for future parts of the same. Consider this method.
Hello Gary, I would like to see a photo of the setup you mentioned. If I gave my email address in this comment section would you please send me some photos?
After a few different jobs, all those holes are filled with swarf (US...chips!) Plays havoc with cleaning. But a sacrificial subplate is good. My table is 50 inches by 20 inches. Every time a part goes down, that plate MUST be clean!
I personally like seeing more details of the process like this as I am a noob that will be getting into hobby machining soon. So if you’re wanting to do more detail videos on the different processes, you have my vote! 👍🏻 great job!!
Loved the video. Always look forward to yours. Loved the format from start to finish...but would have loved to see more of the CAD/CAM. Admittedly I'm biased, because it's sort of where I'm at in my journey.
Hi Jason, nice work on the plate. When you are cutting the profile of your part try putting your entry and exit directly on a corner cham and you will have no noticeable whiteness mark.
I mill in a couple of dowel holes between the tapped holes, just to use as locating pegs to align the stock material. Otherwise you need to bolt down something to place your stock against. But whatever floats your boat.
I wonder...can you make a near full size one on the mini mill if you clamp using the t slots, and drill holes directly over the Tslot, and then secure it and drill partial holes? You'd be my hero if you do it and show me how lol
Hi Jason. Good video. I do have a question though. Why didn't you make the fixture on the mill it was going to be used on? When we machine sub bases / fixture plates, we machine them on the machine they will be used on, and they are a permanent part of that machine after that. That way they will be parallel and square to all the machine axis. Like you said, it'll protect the new machine table too. We make the sub bases bigger than the table (without causing interference with the machine), and machine the threaded hole pattern right to the maximum travel in X , and Y. The bigger the sub base the better. Especially in X so you have room to bolt down a 4th axis or CNC interfaced index head. Another cool thing to do is alternate 1/2-13 threaded holes , and reamed 1/2" holes. That way you can make smaller fixtures with 1/2" reamed holes to align to the machine by dropping it on a couple of 1/2" pins and bolt it down on a clean sub base. Saves time. You won't have to indicate the fixture square to the machine every time you use it.
Keith Lane great question Keith. The mill we have really isn’t designed to make stuff like this. The largest end mill we have for it is 4mm Also this is just a baseplate. Other smaller fixtures will go on and off of this one.
It would be very cool from you if you show us CAD and CAM. Also do you think to make some CAD and CAM lessons for beginers in the futre Greetings from Germany
WD40 is sold in the gallon, 5 gallon, and 55 gallon drum cans. The shop buys it by the 55gallon drum (usually 2 drums at a time,), I buy it by the gallon for our home shop. It's way cheaper that way than aerosol cans and we just use pump spray bottles, and syringe squeeze bottles for detail work. I think by the 55 it's around $15 a gallon, where as a gallon can is $20 on amazon. It may not be the absolute best water deterrent (I think it does well enough,) although I use some other products for certain things, but it's ubiquitously known quantity, readily available from a range of suppliers, and cheap.
Great video!!! You ever think about mounting the go pro on the right side window of the machine? That way it would show the full tool changes and you’d get a wider view of the operations? I’m not sure if the SS2 is big enough, it’s just an idea. Would love to get a wider view. Love the descriptions while it’s milling. Sometimes the haas overpowered your voice tho :(
Loved the whole vid (a few areas could have used some time lapse) as I like to see the end-to-end processes of other ppl - even little things like wiping down the table with WD first. (My shop is right beside WDs old hq but they moved a few months ago so now I use their parking lot which has been great!) Cant' wait to see the Syil in action. Have you thought about getting a tool balancer? Just bcs you can buy 'balanced' tool holders doesn't mean everything is fine after the tool is in there and 24k rpm is getting serious. I think you can send some tools in for inspection to some vendors, if I'm not mistaken. Keep it up!
It would be good if Haas did a video about G187 and its parameters. I believe that if you have high speed machining, you can set the control parameters to be on by default. High Speed Machining is a Must Have these days. " Lets Make " Series is a good Idea.
Can you do a video on Cam for thread milling? Also, how do you choose an appropriate thread mill? I am looking to mill 3/4"-32 inside and outside threads in aluminum and delrin.
I dont know much, but I do know not to get the cutter diameter too close to the ID thread size, or else your threads will look "dull". Its called "thread milling profile deviation" lots of people dont know this
I've never seen the need to key a vise, your going to get some inherit inaccuracy from it, and it takes 5 mintues to throw a vise on and indicate it in.
How do you like that Synergy coolant now that you've been using it for a little while? I'm getting a new machine soon, and it looks pretty good, especially the easy rinse-off, so I'm looking at getting that for the new machine. Did you have to call Blaser to find a distributor?
I talked to our Blaser distributor and I am told you should use distilled water. Is that what you used. I though tap was good for initial install and then distilled for top-offs. The rep recommended distilled for both. They offered to test my tap water for free to see if it met minimum requirements.
Love the videos! I've generally been told the way you cut the aluminum is wrong as you asked the blade to go through many inches of stock at the same time whereas cutting the aluminum the other way (clamping it on the faces) would have made the blade only have to cut the thickness at the same time. Genuinely asking if you do it your way for a reason we can learn from!
Cut through the longest dimension so the blade has less distance to wander over. Less pressure on each tooth, I guess, though. So maybe it is a little slower?
@@RandomNumber141 Yeah the wander thing is real, though not a factor if you're planning on machining that edge anyway. I had always learned that long cuts are bad for the blade since basically the blade is dragging metal dust all of the way through the cut, so in this scenario, the blade starts clean and lubed, but 6 inches later is coated with aluminum shavings and is likely poorly-lubed. At any rate, all good. Many ways to skin a cat (or cut bar-stock) :)
I dont know if its necessary for this project, but i would've added keyways with small threaded holes on both ends of the bottom. That way you could bolt in two wedges to the fixture so the holes line up with the table
We are using a protruded channel that fits snug in the t-slots of the machine table so that the XY is always perfectly aligned to the XY of the machine
Hello Jason, What coolant are you running? Its water clear making me wonder if its the new Blaser Synergy 735? If so how do you like it? Im thinking about switching to it.
You made M8 threads into your fixture plate. Question from Europe: Is that because you always use metric fixtures or because the Syil is in the metric system? How often do you have to use metric screws in general?
Anyone else remember a month or so ago when he said he barely ever machines aluminum? LOL I told yah you would be doing a LOT more! :D Although I do have to ask why you bothered thread milling when you could rigid tap those in half the time?
@@NerdlyCNC Well at least one of us is. Since Sunday I have been completely shut down until the new compressor comes in. As for taps I say go with Sandvik Coromant. While normally I would always first and foremost recommend made in USA there just is no comparison for taps. These guys literally have a tap for every hole. Even the really big and deep ones... Wow that got real dirty real fast lol.
the sound of the endmill cutting is a little bit wierd when you look at it it doesn't appear to cut the material but you can still hear it cutting I don't know if that just me or editting problem
I'm not telling you how to do things but if I was making that at work I would use the mill you did to ruff only and run a uncoated tips to Finnish mill i would use a hurtle mill and only take. 0100 on a fishing pass and it will look like a mirror. Not matter if your milling or boring we use a. 0100 for finishing. And for coolant cutting aluminum run it rich like a 8 or 9.hope this helps!
@@NerdlyCNC no problem iv done this 18 years now I try to help where I can. By the way that 6040 you started with do you still make stuff on or or what did you use it to make? I have a 3040 to play with
Protip: instead of hand jogging the Y axis to the front, just type "Y" (the letter Y on the keyboard not the Y on the axis jog selector) and then hit Home/G28 button on the right. That will rapid the Y axis to the front. you can do the same for the other axes if you type a single axis letter and then press the G28 button. If you don't type any letters and press the G28 button it will send Z home first and then X and Y simultaneously.
Heard your band saw squealing. Try a variable pitch blade. You won't buy another constant pitch blade again. Variable pitch keeps it from resonating on long cut surfaces.
I think veteran bicycle might have meant Startup Industry. but not sure .FYI and MO you might have skip the harbor freight cutting clip and just shown the cad or fusion make up. buy one from NYCNC or Sander's machine.and then show us how you made you'r .
"The International System of Units (SI, abbreviated from the French Système international (d'unités)) is the modern form of the metric system, and is the most widely used system of measurement." - en.wikipedia.org/wiki/International_System_of_Units
Agreed! The band saw was not important. Speeds & feeds would be great to have shared instead... (if not a bit of cad as well). Also when you actually use it it would be great to see the plate in action and understanding how useful it is.
The jerky corners in that adaptive clearing toolpath are caused by the CAM outputting a bunch of small linear segments to replicate intended toolpath. You can't really "turn on" high speed machining as there are a bunch of settings in both the CAM and on the machine that affect this behavior. First, most CAM programs will allow you to define a tolerance for the linear interpolation. In Fusion, this is set to 0.0004" by default, which means that all those linear segments added together can't deviate from the intended spline path by more than 0.0004". This is great for a finishing strategy, but far too small for a roughing toolpath. I usually increase it to 0.005". The machine also has its own tolerance which is controlled by G187. Haas calls this "high speed machining" but that's sort of a misnomer because it's not some magic button that makes everything fast. It's really just the tolerance of the motion planning algorithm. Your choice of G187 and your CAM tolerance both need to be considered as a pair for the intended results. In addition, I'd recommend setting your CAM program to output arcs instead of lines during the roughing phase. In Fusion this is called "smoothing" and this typically allows for huge reductions in the length of the code and improved surface finishes.
Great videos Jason.
Just grind the screws a bit shorter, save yourself a trip.
Also, I used to use a bandsaw for cutting aluminum, but got tired of how slow it is.
Just get a chop saw with carbide tipped teeth, saws through aluminum easily.
Pro-tip. I've had issues breaking blades on a band saw when I cut material on the long side of the stock. Turn your block to where it's oriented perpendicular to the base and it will increase band saw blade life.
I've had the blade walk from the intended path by cutting too long on the narrow side. Once it starts to drift off center you're starting over. A good sharp blade w/ decent lube/chip clear will always do the trick.
That is definitely a good observation. I suppose do whatever works for you. I'm using an automatic band saw so it controls the cut rate for me which should eliminate the blade walking issue. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
stock would have been too tall to make the cut, only a little saw
Hello Jason, working in a mold shop our CNC mills all have a aluminum 1 inch plate on 6 inch ribs that is the entire x and y axis travel. Mini Mill 2 ribs our other bigger machines 3 ribs, these ribs give us room for our hands to fit under the plate to bolt our molds down and do the other side of the mold. It gives up some z travel but this is seldom a problem. We used a smaller vise on the Mini Mill. This allows us to use and save the many work offsets. I consider the aluminum plate a spoil board when it gets too many hole we put on a new one. Our mills original tables are all pristine, tools never come close to it. . I think nothing of drilling and tapping bolt holes and reaming dowel holes to mount a part and saving the work offset for future parts of the same. Consider this method.
Hello Gary, I would like to see a photo of the setup you mentioned. If I gave my email address in this comment section would you please send me some photos?
@@kjelld168804, Yes
After a few different jobs, all those holes are filled with swarf (US...chips!) Plays havoc with cleaning. But a sacrificial subplate is good. My table is 50 inches by 20 inches. Every time a part goes down, that plate MUST be clean!
I personally like seeing more details of the process like this as I am a noob that will be getting into hobby machining soon. So if you’re wanting to do more detail videos on the different processes, you have my vote! 👍🏻 great job!!
Silent compressor 5:00 ,lol. Your videos are so honest and so helpful. Cheers man.
Loved the video. Always look forward to yours. Loved the format from start to finish...but would have loved to see more of the CAD/CAM. Admittedly I'm biased, because it's sort of where I'm at in my journey.
I was trained to always countersink or chamfer the hole before tapping.....
Sometimes I like to chamfer after to make the thread feel a bit more tight :)
@@therussianmachinists2409 by rolling a bur into the first thread
@@WesleyVantHull exactly :)
Thanks Jason. Really enjoyed the video.
Thanks for the video. I always pickup a few tips from you. Some in my understanding of marketing, some in my understanding of machining.
I like how everyone comments there is very interesting discussion on your channel. Keep posting!
There's always hidden chips in that spot....pretty much every vise I've ever used😂😂😂😂😂great video as always
Would love to see more videos like this maybe even include like your 60/40 CNC router testing it maximum abilities maybe doing some upgrades 4th axis
Love the let's make series
Great video, loved watching it, great energy !
Hi Jason, nice work on the plate. When you are cutting the profile of your part try putting your entry and exit directly on a corner cham and you will have no noticeable whiteness mark.
I mill in a couple of dowel holes between the tapped holes, just to use as locating pegs to align the stock material. Otherwise you need to bolt down something to place your stock against. But whatever floats your boat.
I wonder...can you make a near full size one on the mini mill if you clamp using the t slots, and drill holes directly over the Tslot, and then secure it and drill partial holes? You'd be my hero if you do it and show me how lol
And yes, a cad/cam video would be awesome!
Hi Jason.
Good video. I do have a question though. Why didn't you make the fixture on the mill it was going to be used on?
When we machine sub bases / fixture plates, we machine them on the machine they will be used on, and they are a permanent part of that machine after that. That way they will be parallel and square to all the machine axis. Like you said, it'll protect the new machine table too. We make the sub bases bigger than the table (without causing interference with the machine), and machine the threaded hole pattern right to the maximum travel in X , and Y. The bigger the sub base the better. Especially in X so you have room to bolt down a 4th axis or CNC interfaced index head. Another cool thing to do is alternate 1/2-13 threaded holes , and reamed 1/2" holes. That way you can make smaller fixtures with 1/2" reamed holes to align to the machine by dropping it on a couple of 1/2" pins and bolt it down on a clean sub base. Saves time. You won't have to indicate the fixture square to the machine every time you use it.
Keith Lane great question Keith.
The mill we have really isn’t designed to make stuff like this. The largest end mill we have for it is 4mm
Also this is just a baseplate. Other smaller fixtures will go on and off of this one.
Blue lintless Scott shop towels are great instead of getting shards in your hands, autozone has them in a box of 200 for $10
Great channel. A ghetto Grimsmo channel... trust me, it's a compliment.
haha...thanks. i
It would be very cool from you if you show us CAD and CAM.
Also do you think to make some CAD and CAM lessons for beginers in the futre
Greetings from Germany
WD40 is sold in the gallon, 5 gallon, and 55 gallon drum cans. The shop buys it by the 55gallon drum (usually 2 drums at a time,), I buy it by the gallon for our home shop. It's way cheaper that way than aerosol cans and we just use pump spray bottles, and syringe squeeze bottles for detail work. I think by the 55 it's around $15 a gallon, where as a gallon can is $20 on amazon. It may not be the absolute best water deterrent (I think it does well enough,) although I use some other products for certain things, but it's ubiquitously known quantity, readily available from a range of suppliers, and cheap.
Great video!!! You ever think about mounting the go pro on the right side window of the machine? That way it would show the full tool changes and you’d get a wider view of the operations? I’m not sure if the SS2 is big enough, it’s just an idea. Would love to get a wider view. Love the descriptions while it’s milling. Sometimes the haas overpowered your voice tho :(
Daniel DeArco this machine only has one window. The door :(
I bought a new housing and it fogged up. Next time we’ll use most. :)
Loved the whole vid (a few areas could have used some time lapse) as I like to see the end-to-end processes of other ppl - even little things like wiping down the table with WD first. (My shop is right beside WDs old hq but they moved a few months ago so now I use their parking lot which has been great!) Cant' wait to see the Syil in action. Have you thought about getting a tool balancer? Just bcs you can buy 'balanced' tool holders doesn't mean everything is fine after the tool is in there and 24k rpm is getting serious. I think you can send some tools in for inspection to some vendors, if I'm not mistaken. Keep it up!
Air ratchet works good for removing vice jaws if you have to do it often
Andy Thompson great tip. A few people have mentioned electric ratchets or impact style cordless ratchets as well.
It would be good if Haas did a video about G187 and its parameters. I believe that if you have high speed machining, you can set the control parameters to be on by default. High Speed Machining is a Must Have these days. " Lets Make " Series is a good Idea.
Thanks Jason. How did you clock up on op two, to make sure your outside milling lined up with the first operations outside milling. Thanks Thys.
Can you do a video on Cam for thread milling? Also, how do you choose an appropriate thread mill? I am looking to mill 3/4"-32 inside and outside threads in aluminum and delrin.
I dont know much, but I do know not to get the cutter diameter too close to the ID thread size, or else your threads will look "dull". Its called "thread milling profile deviation" lots of people dont know this
UA-camr Rdge Precision spent some time making a clear view window so he could film more through the coolant spray, worth looking at.
Thanks
if you are going to be removing the vise often you should look into keying it, its repeatable if you mill the keys right
also make a habit of chamfering the holes before threading, you can push materiel into the thread with the chamfer tool
I've never seen the need to key a vise, your going to get some inherit inaccuracy from it, and it takes 5 mintues to throw a vise on and indicate it in.
@@Daniel-vq9zb all our vises are keyed, in an out like a trout, saves time in our jobshop, they have to be milled right though
@@axisfiveraxisfiver5844 I agree, keys are a huge help. If you need to be more accurate than a .001, you can still adjust the vise with the keys...
@@axisfiveraxisfiver5844 sometimes I like to chamfer after to make the thread seem a bit tighter than it is ;)
How do you like that Synergy coolant now that you've been using it for a little while? I'm getting a new machine soon, and it looks pretty good, especially the easy rinse-off, so I'm looking at getting that for the new machine. Did you have to call Blaser to find a distributor?
I talked to our Blaser distributor and I am told you should use distilled water. Is that what you used. I though tap was good for initial install and then distilled for top-offs. The rep recommended distilled for both. They offered to test my tap water for free to see if it met minimum requirements.
Love the videos! I've generally been told the way you cut the aluminum is wrong as you asked the blade to go through many inches of stock at the same time whereas cutting the aluminum the other way (clamping it on the faces) would have made the blade only have to cut the thickness at the same time. Genuinely asking if you do it your way for a reason we can learn from!
typically you cut it flat to minimize the possibility of cutting a taper
Cut through the longest dimension so the blade has less distance to wander over. Less pressure on each tooth, I guess, though. So maybe it is a little slower?
@@RandomNumber141 Yeah the wander thing is real, though not a factor if you're planning on machining that edge anyway. I had always learned that long cuts are bad for the blade since basically the blade is dragging metal dust all of the way through the cut, so in this scenario, the blade starts clean and lubed, but 6 inches later is coated with aluminum shavings and is likely poorly-lubed. At any rate, all good. Many ways to skin a cat (or cut bar-stock) :)
I dont know if its necessary for this project, but i would've added keyways with small threaded holes on both ends of the bottom. That way you could bolt in two wedges to the fixture so the holes line up with the table
We are using a protruded channel that fits snug in the t-slots of the machine table so that the XY is always perfectly aligned to the XY of the machine
gotta love high pressure flood coolant , awesome... question , how do you zero the chamfer tool?? just the tip to the work top surface??
When you buy the tool they tell you the tip diameter. Just touch it off like any other tool and enter the known dimensions.
thanks/@@kazlx
Hello Jason, What coolant are you running? Its water clear making me wonder if its the new Blaser Synergy 735? If so how do you like it? Im thinking about switching to it.
You made M8 threads into your fixture plate. Question from Europe: Is that because you always use metric fixtures or because the Syil is in the metric system? How often do you have to use metric screws in general?
I always spot deep enough to clear my lead thread before I tap... then come back and kiss it a couple tenths deeper after.
Anyone else remember a month or so ago when he said he barely ever machines aluminum? LOL I told yah you would be doing a LOT more! :D
Although I do have to ask why you bothered thread milling when you could rigid tap those in half the time?
Ha ha....i take it all back....been cutting a bunch of aluminum.....
Answer: Didnt have and M8 tap....so i used what i had. :)
@@NerdlyCNC Well at least one of us is. Since Sunday I have been completely shut down until the new compressor comes in.
As for taps I say go with Sandvik Coromant. While normally I would always first and foremost recommend made in USA there just is no comparison for taps. These guys literally have a tap for every hole. Even the really big and deep ones... Wow that got real dirty real fast lol.
Eastwood’s has great rust Prevention products
Did you just ran the machine using water as the coolant?
Hopefully not.. Never do that! It will cause rust.
the sound of the endmill cutting is a little bit wierd when you look at it it doesn't appear to cut the material but you can still hear it cutting I don't know if that just me or editting problem
Where did you get those V jaws. I would live a set of those for my 4 inch vise.
Looks like he just made them.
Did you ever put up the cad/cam files for this?
What bandsaw was used in this video
after flipping it over how did you set your 0 again?
The cad/cam files would be super if possible :)
I'm not telling you how to do things but if I was making that at work I would use the mill you did to ruff only and run a uncoated tips to Finnish mill i would use a hurtle mill and only take. 0100 on a fishing pass and it will look like a mirror. Not matter if your milling or boring we use a. 0100 for finishing. And for coolant cutting aluminum run it rich like a 8 or 9.hope this helps!
Thanks Max, the advice is appreciated. Thanks for watching!
@@NerdlyCNC no problem iv done this 18 years now I try to help where I can. By the way that 6040 you started with do you still make stuff on or or what did you use it to make? I have a 3040 to play with
@@maxcox6019 - we still use our 6040 CNC every week....Usually only a few hours a week. but it still makes great parts.
What kind of parts do you make on it? I was thinking of things I can make and sale with my 3040 but I can't really think of anything.
What tool do you use to chamfer the edges/corners?
Do you know web page where I can buy syil cnc machines?
Protip: instead of hand jogging the Y axis to the front, just type "Y" (the letter Y on the keyboard not the Y on the axis jog selector) and then hit Home/G28 button on the right. That will rapid the Y axis to the front. you can do the same for the other axes if you type a single axis letter and then press the G28 button. If you don't type any letters and press the G28 button it will send Z home first and then X and Y simultaneously.
Or select rapid jog and hit minus Y button. (quicker than typing on keyboard)!
What type of coolant is that?
Heard your band saw squealing. Try a variable pitch blade. You won't buy another constant pitch blade again. Variable pitch keeps it from resonating on long cut surfaces.
Thread milling..Tim Taylor grunt.
I meant edge precision
Sorry
O-no... inches tape )))
I think veteran bicycle might have meant Startup Industry. but not sure .FYI and MO you might have skip the harbor freight cutting clip and just shown the cad or fusion make up. buy one from NYCNC or Sander's machine.and then show us how you made you'r .
"The International System of Units (SI, abbreviated from the French Système international (d'unités)) is the modern form of the metric system, and is the most widely used system of measurement." - en.wikipedia.org/wiki/International_System_of_Units
Agreed! The band saw was not important. Speeds & feeds would be great to have shared instead... (if not a bit of cad as well). Also when you actually use it it would be great to see the plate in action and understanding how useful it is.
The saw blade does not look for aluminum (too many tooth per inch)
Bro just cut the screws... Lol