Man I just dropped by to thank you for helping Scotty with that ATM arcade machine. But found myself really impressed with some of your content… And hope you make more! Your work is awesome, and I really envy your shop and set up! This video in particular helped me a lot! Because I’m always tinkering with old HP and techtronix test gear.....all with various crappy and leaky batteries. I thought I’d Consumed all of the info regarding leaky battery replacement, But this video is a wealth of knowledge… And approaches the topic from a unique perspective! I subscribe to your channel and I hope to see more content… The Internet is starved for good troubleshooting content like this, that is straightforward and easy to understand… And presented by someone who doesn’t talk down to the audience like we are children.(even though some of us don’t understand electronics so well LOL) Thanks again… I really enjoyed yalls collaboration… And if your ever near Chattanooga Tennessee give me a ring! I’ll send you home with more test gear than you want!
Looked this up to see if this would be easy or difficult in general knowing all boards are different, but it seems very easy! My battery was corroded and wouldn't hold a charge (Luckily no corrosion on the board itself). I got tired of setting KOF98 to single fighters since it defaults to teams so I figured I'd replace the battery before it got worse. Good work!
I have that same PCB. the lead closest to the silkscreened "5" was corroded through, also destroyed the clock crystal in much the same fashion. I also removed, cleaned, and re-installed the nec 4990 in a socket because the IC and the through-hole traces were affected. I used a 12pf crystal as a replacement for those who are interested. I also pulled, cleaned, and reinserted the resistor pack below the 4990.The solution inside those batteries can travel farther than you think as the PRO-B0 hybrid QFP at quadrant 7-8 on mine had some pins that weren't making good contact and I had to reflow it. Using those Varta batteries was the worse thing they did back then. Also, that pad on the back will come up if your gentle with IPA or board cleaner, a wee bit of hot air and a nylon esd brush for what remains. Just take it easy.
I gotta wonder why the foam is there, is it just to prevent the operator accidentally shorting the battery? I've seen that weird pad on a lot of MVS boards but it mostly just makes repairs a huge PITA.
Question ✋ Whats the electronics behind that resistor connected to battery, is it compulsory for a chargeable battery or just to limtize the current. I mean u jumped right at it
Hassan Sultan removing that resistor is just the least destructive way of breaking the charging circuit so it doesn’t charge the new non-rechargeable battery
What is the purpose of the padded red tape that you peeled back and what is it called? Asking because I cleaned my board and the tape came loose, so I took it completely off. Is it necessary to have it on the board?
Justin Jahn Not sure what you’d call it. Maybe protective foam tape? I believe the only purpose is to cover the solder side of the battery leads so they don’t accidentally get shorted. There may be other components in the same region it’s meant to protect as well. As long as you’re careful with the board, it’s not necessary.
Could you just leave the resistor in place and use rechargeable lithium ML2032 coin batteries with the same holder (e.g., amzn.to/2LrF56O)? Or would it be putting too much voltage into the 3V lithium coin vs. a 3.6V NiCd cell?
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Man I just dropped by to thank you for helping Scotty with that ATM arcade machine. But found myself really impressed with some of your content… And hope you make more! Your work is awesome, and I really envy your shop and set up!
This video in particular helped me a lot! Because I’m always tinkering with old HP and techtronix test gear.....all with various crappy and leaky batteries. I thought I’d Consumed all of the info regarding leaky battery replacement, But this video is a wealth of knowledge… And approaches the topic from a unique perspective!
I subscribe to your channel and I hope to see more content… The Internet is starved for good troubleshooting content like this, that is straightforward and easy to understand… And presented by someone who doesn’t talk down to the audience like we are children.(even though some of us don’t understand electronics so well LOL)
Thanks again… I really enjoyed yalls collaboration… And if your ever near Chattanooga Tennessee give me a ring! I’ll send you home with more test gear than you want!
Looked this up to see if this would be easy or difficult in general knowing all boards are different, but it seems very easy! My battery was corroded and wouldn't hold a charge (Luckily no corrosion on the board itself). I got tired of setting KOF98 to single fighters since it defaults to teams so I figured I'd replace the battery before it got worse. Good work!
Where can I get parts. The crystal and those other parts near it?, the legs on some of my chips are also corroded.
I have that same PCB. the lead closest to the silkscreened "5" was corroded through, also destroyed the clock crystal in much the same fashion. I also removed, cleaned, and re-installed the nec 4990 in a socket because the IC and the through-hole traces were affected. I used a 12pf crystal as a replacement for those who are interested. I also pulled, cleaned, and reinserted the resistor pack below the 4990.The solution inside those batteries can travel farther than you think as the PRO-B0 hybrid QFP at quadrant 7-8 on mine had some pins that weren't making good contact and I had to reflow it. Using those Varta batteries was the worse thing they did back then. Also, that pad on the back will come up if your gentle with IPA or board cleaner, a wee bit of hot air and a nylon esd brush for what remains. Just take it easy.
Great video! Just got in an MV1B with the exact problem. Just ordered a crystal, fingers crossed...
What crystal did you end up getting?
I gotta wonder why the foam is there, is it just to prevent the operator accidentally shorting the battery? I've seen that weird pad on a lot of MVS boards but it mostly just makes repairs a huge PITA.
Great video, keep posting stuff like this. Very educational!
Saw you on Reddit and decided to sub. Excited to see what comes next.
what are the blue switches numbered 1-8 , near the battery ? Thanks
Question ✋
Whats the electronics behind that resistor connected to battery, is it compulsory for a chargeable battery or just to limtize the current. I mean u jumped right at it
Hassan Sultan removing that resistor is just the least destructive way of breaking the charging circuit so it doesn’t charge the new non-rechargeable battery
It’s purpose originally, I assume is to limit current to the battery.
Hi great video what’s the spec on the crystal please I have found a couple of crystals at my local store 32.768 MHz one is 6pf and 12.5pf cheers Simon
I have the same question..can't seem to find the answer online..just ordered the 6pf one..fingers crossed
Whats the model of that sony crt??
I got one of there how much will you charge me to have done
YES! I'm glad you made my favorite game... Puzzle Bobble/Bust-A-Move. 🙂
Thanks for this content! One question here: Is this battery the responsible for the game records saving? =)
Hi i try this but a screen says ram error appers , whats is the solucion ?
What is the purpose of the padded red tape that you peeled back and what is it called?
Asking because I cleaned my board and the tape came loose, so I took it completely off.
Is it necessary to have it on the board?
Justin Jahn Not sure what you’d call it. Maybe protective foam tape? I believe the only purpose is to cover the solder side of the battery leads so they don’t accidentally get shorted. There may be other components in the same region it’s meant to protect as well. As long as you’re careful with the board, it’s not necessary.
Small Change Arcade awesome, thanks for the reply bro. Found some on amazon, just to be safe.
"carefully pry this off" LOL!! that was funny !! use a heat gun to soften the glue and it will come off without breaking!
That's a great idea!
Could you just leave the resistor in place and use rechargeable lithium ML2032 coin batteries with the same holder (e.g., amzn.to/2LrF56O)? Or would it be putting too much voltage into the 3V lithium coin vs. a 3.6V NiCd cell?
The LIR2032 operates at 3.6V and is rechargeable.
Help please
Cool
and if you pull out the battery and leave it without the board it works
I have that screen