I know this is an older video, but the dedication to your project, still in need of parts to keep moving forward, you have proved that anything can be done. Thank you for the inspiration !
I am a retired aircraft technician who specialized in structures, a while back when I was still working I experimented with different materials to make hammer forms out of and I found a very high strength cement similar to the ultra cal 30 that you used. It appears that the Ultra Cal 30 works well for this purpose however there is something that you probably would never have considered. When I mixed up my cement I added a couple of large handfuls of chopped carbon fiber into the cement. This acts like putting straw into adobe mud that greatly strengthens the mud when making adobe bricks. Chopped glass would probably also work well and would be cheaper than chopped carbon fiber.
Go on, I tried type 4 plaster stone, got the edges formed on mine and broke it because I didn't have a solid surface Thought about it and found ultracell, im going to try it next week when it gets here but I'm all ears on how to make it stronger
Very clever method of panel reproduction. That Ultracal certainly held up well. Reconstituted stone and resin mix compounds or even concrete would work too.
So, You may have a good point. It may have been easier to form into a female mold. But, It was easier creating the male mold. I'm not entirely sure since this is the only toe board I've ever made like this. Like I've said in the past. I'm still figuring this out.
I wire wheel off as much of the old undercoating, paint and seam sealer as possible. I wipe it down with rubbing alcohol to get it clean for welding. I always have issues welding to 'old metal'. It just seems to weld differently from the new patch. I also seem to have issues with 'weld through primer'. That stuff always spatters and is difficult. And welding to the galvanized inner rocker gave me a hard time.
Nice work and problem solving. I'm assuming that was cold rolled sheet steel. Any idea what guage? I need to fab something with 22 or 20 guage and just wondering if you were using about that guage. If much thinner, then this probably won't work for me given how much work you put in. Thanks!
Hey thanks! I'm glad you found it useful. I used 18 gauge cold rolled mild sheet steel. This thickness made it a little more difficult to work with, but, I wanted it to be close to the thickness off the surrounding metal where this patch was going in
I didn't think to heat it up. The concrete form probably would have been able to withstand the heat. I'm thinking that the plastic head on the air hammer that I made probably would not have done as well
@@RustyBucketofBolts Maybe a heat gun used in front of your planished path ? , IDK , I've fiberglassed and tin patched floorboards in my youth (was good enough for me back then) .. But , we got a old 49 Buick for my Son and I've been looking into helping him make something of it , to hopefully make it closer to it's original look and function when finished .. Anyway , thanks for the videos , I enjoy em , Cheers
Kinda tedious chopping up milk bottles to get some HDPE stock when thick sheets of it are available everywhere as cutting boards. Don't mean to be a smartass, but a welding course does wonders.
I know this is an older video, but the dedication to your project, still in need of parts to keep moving forward, you have proved that anything can be done. Thank you for the inspiration !
I am astounded. Hats off to you for perseverance. It is amazing what can be done "by hand" that seems impossible at first and even second glance.
I am a retired aircraft technician who specialized in structures, a while back when I was still working I experimented with different materials to make hammer forms out of and I found a very high strength cement similar to the ultra cal 30 that you used. It appears that the Ultra Cal 30 works well for this purpose however there is something that you probably would never have considered. When I mixed up my cement I added a couple of large handfuls of chopped carbon fiber into the cement. This acts like putting straw into adobe mud that greatly strengthens the mud when making adobe bricks. Chopped glass would probably also work well and would be cheaper than chopped carbon fiber.
Go on, I tried type 4 plaster stone, got the edges formed on mine and broke it because I didn't have a solid surface
Thought about it and found ultracell, im going to try it next week when it gets here but I'm all ears on how to make it stronger
@@shawnlynch9826 did it work? :D
good to see these older cars being restored.
thanks for sharing your experience
Very ingenious. I appreciate you making the video.
"I put on some old turtle wax.....I'm not sure why." LOL. Hilarious. Great video!
Very clever method of panel reproduction. That Ultracal certainly held up well. Reconstituted stone and resin mix compounds or even concrete would work too.
That came out really good I've thought about doing this using concrete but forming both sides and using my log splitter to press form a part.
Awesome video. Great job on the panel. Thanks for sharing 👍
Nice work....
This is next level mad scientist "mother of all inventions" genius love the hammer cap u made looks like I know what's cooking on the bbq !!!!
Thanks - I'll slip an extra hammer on the barbie for ya
quite impressive !
Just amazing how necessity is the mother of invention.
Bebe it would be better to leave the original pan on the mould as the anvil
I didn't think of that and in hind sight that may have prevented it from chipping when I was hammering against it.
Nice job
Would it not have been better to make an inverse of the mould you created and then shape the steel on that.
So, You may have a good point. It may have been easier to form into a female mold. But, It was easier creating the male mold. I'm not entirely sure since this is the only toe board I've ever made like this. Like I've said in the past. I'm still figuring this out.
That was a lot of work, but worked.
inventive!
Thanks !
How long did the polyethylene "boot" for the air hammer last? That was a great idea!
It held up just fine. There is no visible wear on it. I only used it on this one project so, there wasn't much oportunity to get dammaged
Wow nice job and a lot of work! Did you have anybody problems with welding so close to seam sealer and undercoating?
I wire wheel off as much of the old undercoating, paint and seam sealer as possible. I wipe it down with rubbing alcohol to get it clean for welding. I always have issues welding to 'old metal'. It just seems to weld differently from the new patch. I also seem to have issues with 'weld through primer'. That stuff always spatters and is difficult. And welding to the galvanized inner rocker gave me a hard time.
Nice work and problem solving. I'm assuming that was cold rolled sheet steel. Any idea what guage? I need to fab something with 22 or 20 guage and just wondering if you were using about that guage. If much thinner, then this probably won't work for me given how much work you put in. Thanks!
Hey thanks! I'm glad you found it useful. I used 18 gauge cold rolled mild sheet steel. This thickness made it a little more difficult to work with, but, I wanted it to be close to the thickness off the surrounding metal where this patch was going in
If you used heat to help soften the panel , I wonder if that would harm your buck mold you made ?
I didn't think to heat it up. The concrete form probably would have been able to withstand the heat. I'm thinking that the plastic head on the air hammer that I made probably would not have done as well
@@RustyBucketofBolts Maybe a heat gun used in front of your planished path ? , IDK , I've fiberglassed and tin patched floorboards in my youth (was good enough for me back then) .. But , we got a old 49 Buick for my Son and I've been looking into helping him make something of it , to hopefully make it closer to it's original look and function when finished .. Anyway , thanks for the videos , I enjoy em , Cheers
@Kudzu Alabama Good luck with the 49 Buick. I love the Grill on that car
Grinding the wielded toe pan wasn't necessary, instead a good swipe of sealer would be like factory
wonder id id would have worked the other way round ,,, making a negative not a positive form.
You could have don't that so much easier by just making a paper pattern, mapping your piece out and shaping it by hand. Whatever floats your boat.
Kinda tedious chopping up milk bottles to get some HDPE stock when thick sheets of it are available everywhere as cutting boards. Don't mean to be a smartass, but a welding course does wonders.
How would chopping up thick sheets of HDPE be any less tedious than chopping up milk bottles that I get for free?
Don't chop it up, use it to fabricate the nose of the tooling.
concrete might have been more durable