55’ Chevy Truck | Crossmember
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- Опубліковано 1 лис 2022
- DAY#3
55’ Chevy Truck | Crossmember
Hang out in the shop with me while I install the crossmember and spring top hats and tackle some light metal fabrication from our Mustang 2 IFS kit from Speedway Motors
Email: InTheShopTV@gmail.com
Link to Speedway Motors Mustang 2 IFS:
www.speedwaymotors.com/Mustan...
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Everything is looking good, as to the measurement, I wouldn't go off the end of the frame. Try using the hole between the rivets of the original cross-member, which is probably what the factory used to align it. As an old-school body man, 1/8" out was the max acceptable range, cars and trucks were very different in that era, and there was plenty of room for adjustment.
Also how long did it take to install and weld everything in today's video.
Maaannn… I’ll be picking your brain once I start sanding sheet metal! As for my time, working leisurely, it took me Saturday and a Sunday morning. But actual man hours was about 4
Its from Speedway. www.speedwaymotors.com/1955-59-Chevy-Truck-IFS-Crossmember-Mustang-II-Front-Suspension,7872.html?sku=91034429-DLX&CSEGoogle&CSE&CSEGOOGLE&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA7OqrBhD9ARIsAK3UXh0xHrCtrH3CP7Mz8cg_J-w9FueMy2FCJTjsB4b0TdhRhZmomx3jRvkaAljoEALw_wcB
It fits 55-59 chevy trucks, “heidts” make a nice one too! Good luck with the build and thanks for watching
Looks great, I don’t think the small difference is going to matter, I’m sure the frame rails might not be the same. The office build would be cool, great job on the video.
Hey David, thanks! Yeah Im hoping so.
You do get grace, for a 32 nd to an 8th . degree. on caster and camber. that will fix it. the trucks frame is an 8th off any way front to back.
Hi Mike, started late on this series so I am catching up on all the older videos now. One question on this segment. When you found the 1/8" gap between the frame rails and the crossmember did you find that your rails spread on you or was the crossmember cut for less then the 29 1/2" that you initially thought?
Its the common case of nothing being 100% true. The crossmember AND the frame are somewhat crude and have minor inconsistencies throughout. In truth, when it comes to welding, I’d MUCH rather have a slight gap than an ultra tight fit up any day! Will always be stronger! Good luck and thank you so much for watching my videos!
Just starting to follow. Watching all videos in a row to get psyched up to start on my 55 gmc 2nd series. It's taken apart down to the frame. Is this the first time you've done this specific build? Also, in your measurements, you didn't check for squareness by measuring diagonally. Is squareness not terribly important? I'm enjoying your build so far.
Thanks so much for following along! Ive built a lot of GM cars and trucks over the years and several tri-fives but this is the first tri five thats a full frame off custom build. Yep I checked for square… the passenger frame rail is inward at the very end by 1/8”. The core support still lines up perfect which is what’s important as its the center foundation for the fenders and inner fenders. The only thing it would affect is the front bumper mount. However a simple shim or washer rectifies that. Thanks for watching!!
Hey man, I won't actually need those blueprints, but can you tell me how tall the frame rail is where the cross member welds to it? I want to say its 5 - 1/2, but I could be wrong. Thank you in advance. I should be putting my kit in one of these next few weekends.
Sorry I just saw this. Did you get it figured out - I can go measure today if not
No offence meant but do you plan on going back and cleaning off all the little molten drops you get with mig welding since you were talking about the control arm welds. Just curious
Do you mean weld spatter (little BB’s) or the weld bead itself?
14:44, how do you know that one frame rail isn't ahead or behind the other rail?
In the first video in the build series, I had a mild frame repair, part of that repair was making sure the frame rails were square. Great question though!
I wouldn’t use the end of the frame the instructions say to use a specific point and not the end of the frame for a reason. If I remember they weren’t all cut exactly the same
I didn’t use the end of the frame for installation, I used the front shackle hole as required. Im only measuring the finished product against the end of the frame for reference, I also double checked for square using several different locations including the original crossmember. All measurements show about the same discrepancy.
@@intheshoptv I saw u used the shackle hole for install don’t remember it showing in the video that it measured off from there. Still I believe u will be ok u took way more care in doing urs than I did mine was I was 16 and mine drives just fine
What kind of transmisson cross member would work on a 57 chevy p.u.?
This is the crossmember I used:
www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-cp9424
And this is the video where I installed it:
ua-cam.com/video/fPO9WA6bimI/v-deo.htmlsi=gSqInx2VbnQYjC1s
Hey brother you did great love the video I just bought a kit for my truck and no instructions I can't find anything do you know the measurement of your bottom control arm hole from the bottom of your frame and or crossmember from the bottom of the frame also I know you angled the top hats like you were supposed to and I know I need the angle my top a arms but my question is do you angle the crossmember or keep it straight and angle the top a-arm
Hey!
So you want the crossmember to be welded in dead-on straight. The geometry of the spindle accounts for the canted angle of the upper control arms. Hope that makes sense.
@@intheshoptv so my kit it's from TCI it's kind of all purpose and I can't find the measurement of the bottom a-arm hole to the the bottom of the frame I've been looking all morning and last night also my kit is a little different it doesn't come with the hat it comes with the tilted A arm bracket for coilovers
I really appreciate you replying I guess what I'm trying to ask the bottom a arm stays perfectly horizontal and the top A arm bracket I've read I need to make it 3° what's confusing me as I've watched a million videos and everyone I've been watching it looks like they put 3° on the bottom A arm bracket as well
@@tuckerc3802 I can say with almost 100% certainty that my lower arms are completely squared and level to the bottom of the crossmember (which is also level). Doesnt your kit come pre-drilled for the A-arm bolts?
What location on the frame rail did you use to level the frame? Side to side is easy but front to back is tough. These frames narrow as you move towards the front and start to dive a bit towards the front. I'm installing the same kit on my 58 Apache and when I lift the crossmember into place and it meets the bottom of the frame the crossmember is slightly tilted towards the back of the truck. I assume I should level it to match the frame rail. But what part of the frame haha. Any help would be greatly appriciates.
As far forward as the level will go before the frame rails dip down. The crossmember/boxing plate section of the frame rails is level with the rest of the frame from there to right before it humps over the rear axle. I set my crossmember to be dead level to gravity. I use a digital level and look for 0.0
@@intheshoptv ok I did notice the top is level. The bottom of the frame tapers. So your saying level the frame off the top rail front to back and side to side. Slide the crossmember up and then level it front to back and side to side.
Pretty sure my crossmember was built on a Friday, comparing it side to side measurements on it vary by about 1/8" all over. The bottom that butts up to the bottom of the frame are actually different measurements on all 4 corners.
I expected more from Heidts but I'll make it work.
@@N8z14 none of them line up perfectly square brother. Yeah, I made sure my frame was level in all directions, pushed the xmember up until it made contact, squared it side to side, then placed a digital level in it side to side, then turned the digital level sideways and made sure it was straight front to back and tacked it in. My work was perfect and it still came out 1/8th” off do to irregularities in the 70yr old frame. I showed in a later video, how I corrected it.
@@intheshoptv I ended up calling Heidts today. The guy said the crossmember angle front to back in and in relation to the ground isn't actually that important. What matters is that 20 7/8" measurement and making sure it is sitting square to the frame rails and centered between the rails. I was surprised he said that but I guess that's why the instructions don't specify a crossmember angle. I'm going to do same as you did. Thanks for your help, Mike. Crossmember is getting welded in tonight and then I'm into 4 link install.
@@N8z14Sounds good. Good luck! Ugh the 4-link… I had lots of custom fab work with that! You’ll see when you get to those videos lol. Pre tip- if you’re planning on having your truck sit low, piece together your own 4-link kit INSTEAD of buying a kit. Wish I would have done that.
If I am following correctly, it looks like you are going to open the t-bolt slots on the wrong sides.
Left side is further back, so opening the front of the slots should bring that control arm forward
@Swick2000 You know, Im filming the follow up/repair right now, and as it turns out, you are 100% correct. Fortunately, Im a little OCD and measured it all about 20 times again so I would have caught it either way. But I think these types of comments are great… imagine if another person were to just start cutting without re-checking their work!? Or even if someone else follows this video one day with a similar issue - good eye, man!
Film the man cave
Alright we’ll do! Thanks for watching and for the comment!
I’m a novice builder and taking on a 58 Apache - Can anyone share if the same cross member be used on a 58 and who is the supplier of the cross member….looks neat… Great video by way. Keep up the good
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Lmc, classic industries, speedway, classic parts things for this old Stuffs not hard to find today !
Lmc, classic industries, speedway, classic parts things for this old Stuffs not hard to find today !
Lmc, classic industries, speedway, classic parts things for this old Stuffs not hard to find today !
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