Bryan I did my first guitar setup today, and with the aid of this video and all the helpful pages on your website I was able to get my guitar setup really well. Something that was always a mystery to me was actually quite simple once I understood the process. I was oddly confident after studying your materials and basically was like.. “ Dude I can totally do this!” Thanks so much for all you do to help those of us that aren’t so knowledgeable on this stuff. Super grateful to have learned a new skill as well!
@@Bryankimsey Also.. Thanks for the tip on the two way truss rod. I was not aware of that and I definitely hit that dead spot. I may have given up had you not mentioned it, cuz it took some time to drive past it with all the strings still on.
great video thanks so much! I just want to make sure before i work on my SSD45 that everything you said about adjusting the nut on an electric guitar applies exactly to an acoustic. I suppose so, but it would be great if you reaffirm that
@@Bryankimsey As i mentioned before, my Stephen Stilsl D45 came out of the Martin factory with very high action (both the nut and saddle are too high) I plan to lower the slots on the nut to so that the strings barely clear the first fret (when pressing between the 2nd and 3rd fret), but what about the top of the nut . . . does it require any filing or shaping? or do you think only the slots need to be deeper? and what about the sides of the leading and trailing end of each slot . . .do they need to be rounded or just straight?
The top of the nut is primarily cosmetic. If the string drags on the side, then the slots are a little too tight anyway. The string's going to find the bottom of a rounded slot so give it a little room so it doesn't bind
Thanks for doing these videos. I have a newer banjo with a non adjustable truss rod (carbon bar) and a back bowed neck. Do think I can fix with a refret?
Yes. You may need to do some sanding in the middle of the neck. Let me find the video where I demonstrate the sandbag technique. Or you can search my videos for "fretting".
Bryan I did my first guitar setup today, and with the aid of this video and all the helpful pages on your website I was able to get my guitar setup really well. Something that was always a mystery to me was actually quite simple once I understood the process. I was oddly confident after studying your materials and basically was like.. “ Dude I can totally do this!” Thanks so much for all you do to help those of us that aren’t so knowledgeable on this stuff. Super grateful to have learned a new skill as well!
Way to go!!!
@@Bryankimsey Also.. Thanks for the tip on the two way truss rod. I was not aware of that and I definitely hit that dead spot. I may have given up had you not mentioned it, cuz it took some time to drive past it with all the strings still on.
Might want to check this one out:
ua-cam.com/video/2mIfDa9QAcE/v-deo.html
Well done Bryan. Thank you!
The '56 is now a Video Star !!
Gotta earn its keep! :)
I've been doing it wrong. Soon as I'm finished watching this I'm going downstairs and set up a Telecaster this way. Thank you.
What were you doing differently?
.012 relief and nut slots too high. Not by much but made a difference.@@Bryankimsey
great video thanks so much! I just want to make sure before i work on my SSD45 that everything you said about adjusting the nut on an electric guitar applies exactly to an acoustic. I suppose so, but it would be great if you reaffirm that
Same thing. Same for mandolin, banjo, and any other fretted instrument unless you have a valid reason...such as playing slide...to vary.
@@Bryankimsey As i mentioned before, my Stephen Stilsl D45 came out of the Martin factory with very high action (both the nut and saddle are too high) I plan to lower the slots on the nut to so that the strings barely clear the first fret (when pressing between the 2nd and 3rd fret), but what about the top of the nut . . . does it require any filing or shaping? or do you think only the slots need to be deeper? and what about the sides of the leading and trailing end of each slot . . .do they need to be rounded or just straight?
The top of the nut is primarily cosmetic. If the string drags on the side, then the slots are a little too tight anyway. The string's going to find the bottom of a rounded slot so give it a little room so it doesn't bind
Thanks for doing these videos. I have a newer banjo with a non adjustable truss rod (carbon bar) and a back bowed neck. Do think I can fix with a refret?
Yes. You may need to do some sanding in the middle of the neck. Let me find the video where I demonstrate the sandbag technique. Or you can search my videos for "fretting".