For people who don’t feel comfortable unwind the motor by apply 12vdc to it then there is another easier and safer way to do so. Simply separate the motor from caliper by loosen up 2 fasteners and retract the piston by turning the screw by hand. Hope it helps
@@g3artacular It works according to another video I just watched, they retracted the brake with a star bit. Each time they compressed caliper, and it stopped, they would retract the motor more until caliper was fully compressed.
Thanks a lot for the video! I've watched it and was about to do the same on my wife's 2016 Lexus RX350 when I accidentally discovered a much simpler and easier way to make the car rewind the parking brake motor all the way to the service mode. No messing with wires, no disassembly, clean and simple! (A note: pulling parking brake button up three times, pushing it down three times and holding it like shown on some videos doesn't work on 2016 Lexus RX350. No matter how I tried, it didn't work. Maybe it works on later year models, but not on 2016) So I was about to mess with the motors like suggested in this video when I stumbled upon this amazing simple method. So here's how you do it: Remove both rear wheels. Engage parking brake (pull the button up) Disconnect the parking brake wire from ONE of the calipers, e.g. driver's side. Now, release the parking brake by pushing the button. You'll hear long whining sound on the OTHER caliper, i.e. passenger side. Then dash will say "parking brake failure, go see dealer!". Apparently, when you disconnect one caliper, the computer senses its absence, thinks "OMG, malfunction!" and just in case fully retracts the other motor! Bingo! That's exactly what you need! Now you go and do the brake job on that side like you'd normally do. When you done passenger side, reconnect driver caliper, and engage parking brake. The computer will see that both motors are present and engage the parking brake as usual. Then you do it the other way around - disconnect the passenger caliper and push the button to release the parking brake. The computer will again think "OMG! Failure!" and retract the driver's motor all the way. Do the driver's side brake job, reconnect the passenger's, done! Hope that'll help make your life a bit easier next time you do 2016 Lexus rear brakes!
This is the best way I found regarding rear electrical parking brake retract. I assume the message "parking brake failure, go see dealer!" will disappear once you re-connect all the plugs? Also do you turn off the car once the parking brake retract and while you are doing the rear brake job?
This is what I discovered on my own after accidentally breaking the wiring connector. Had to order a used break wiring harness from Lithuania in order to fix it myself.
I just saved 1100.00 bucks by doing this my self, (A local Auto shop quoted me a price for this task) thanks fir the video I'm ready to replace the rear brakes
$1,100 for this? Wow! I just changed all of my 2010 RX 350 brake pads, plus all the sliding pin boots. The cost was $155 plus six hours of my own time. Doing the electronic release of the rear calipers would probably add half more hour to the job. but it'd be totally worth it.
I have a 2010 RX 350. So I don't need to electronically release its rear calipers. But watching your video was an educational and informative experience. You've done a great service for the DIY crowd, Sir! Thank You!
I have to mention one more fantastic thing about you, and your videos. You respond to people! I asked you a question or two previously, on other videos you did also, and you always respond. That is something that means a lot to me. I watch various videos, and somebody will do something a certain way, or use a certain tool, and I'll be asking myself - WHY is he doing it THAT way, or why use THAT tool? And too many others making the videos either don't want to, or have the time to respond. So thanks for being there for me, and the others that watch you!!!
great video. short and to the point. everything stated in video worked. i used a 12 volt portable remote jump start /charger (the size of a cell phone) to activate and retract the caliper piston. if not for this video, i would have been stuck. other videos used a special tool to supply 12 volt power to the motor. this video kept it simple. thank you.
I kid u not. Stopped at a tire spot to get the brakes and pad done. When it came to the rear they were stomp... some how found this video. Show them. They were able to complete the job. Lol. Almost sent me on my way. Smh
I appreciate the video but there is a way to set the car in “brake service mode” which retracts the EPB and also put its back when you’re done. Viktor G Automotive has a video on how to do it.
Yup. Was scratching my head trying to figure out how to compress the caliper piston back in. Only added a few extra minutes to the brake job retracting the parking brake motor screw.
I used kids 12v car battery to retract rear brake minus(-) AND plus(+) from your view angle then used vice to squeeze. Remember to ignition then pump brake multiple time then manual park on and off for initialization.
Great video even just for the electric parking brake info….Any idea what year they started putting electric Ebrakes on Lexus? I had a 2010 and it didn’t have one…which was fine by me
This is not any break wear indicator. It's almost flush with the metal base. If you go by that - you will go metal on metal. It's just a spring to push on pads so that they don't rattle in the brackets.
It's a wear indicator to show that you're around 1 to 2 mm of pad life left. When the indicator touches the rotor (metal to metal), they'll be a high pitch squeal. You've got a little time before the rotor and the metal pad will contact each other; then sparks will begin to fly! Brake rattle is prevented with abutment clips which reside between the ears of the pad and the caliper brake pad mount points.
@@hardlymovingpro I tried this however the piston appeared to be dislodged. I was able to set it back in it's bore (or at least that's what I think I was doing) after disconnecting it from the brake hose - Thank you for your quick help and creating these videos!
how to disengage the electric parking brake? simply press the the "P" button? Or there are certain proecess we need to fellow in order to put it the parking brake released model? I am trying to replace my RX 350 Rear brake Pad, and just don't want miss anything, and get myself in troubles.
Even with the parking brake being electronically release via the "P" button, the parking brake motor must be recessed (as shown in this video) in order to compress the brake pistons back into the caliper to install new pads.
why don't you do it the right way...all you do is trun key on . foot on the break ...pull on parking brake switch 3 times then push on it three times and hold until you see the light blink... to re engage just pull up on the switch and hold with key on and foot on break , till light goes out
Remove the brake bleed valve and push the the piston back in. Reinstall the valve and use a brake bleed suction tool to create a vacuum in the caliper cavities. The vacuum will pull in brake fluid.
Great video, thanks! May I ask? What brand/model number is that tool you used to depress the caliper piston? It looks like it's built strong (heavy duty), and easy to use. I'd like to get one.
Thanks for your comment! It a dual piston caliper piston compressor tools. Can also be used on single piston calipers. Here's a link to the tool: amzn.to/2TBOkWV
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks! I was and am impressed with the structure of the design of it. It appears more balanced in that it will apply EVEN pressure to the piston and not cock it one way or the other. I really appreciate you taking the time to share, and even provide a link.....Thank you again!
@@hardlymovingpro Listen, I just have to mention....you said that the piston depressor will do a dual piston caliper, and I can see that. When I said it is "balanced", and that is important to me, I mainly do single piston calipers, and was using the ratcheting kind, and it too is fairly wide (so it can do dual ones), but it fits into the caliper in such a way that it can, and does "press" unevenly - like to one side of the piston, or the other. So THAT is why I told you I liked the one you had (which I ordered, and is coming today), because the two legs the plate rides on, force it to be even from side-to-side. Just wanted to share that. Thank you again!
Questions... Should we lube the shims that the shoes slide on? Would it be best to pull the caliber pins and clean them and lube them? Do NOT want to own a vehicle with this electric brake mechanism. ...Thanks for the video...
You mean the pad shims and pads? If so, yes ... apply high temp brake grease between the shims and pads to prevent brake squeal. You can pull the pins all the way out to clean them but don't grease them up until around 1/3 or 1/4 way in the caliper pin hole. Otherwise, an air pocket will form inside the caliper pin hole and you may have difficulty pushing the pins all the way back into the hole.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for the additional information. It is helpful! I always check those rubber boots that are on the pins, for cracks and holes.... when I pull Them. Sure you all do the same.
@@bwest-yq3uc Absolutely! But this car is less than 3 years old and the pin dust boots were fine. What was messed up were the caliper pins. They were locked up from lack of lubricant which caused the uneven brake pad wear.
One more question - please? On this Lexus you applied the 12V to turn the motor. Would you know if many other car brands are the same way? These electronic parking brakes are very popular now, and some say you need a scan tool to do what you did. If all you have to do is apply 12v to any of them, it sure would make it easier. So I'm asking - if you know - are many/most like this (just apply 12V)?
As far as I know, all cars on the road today conform to 12v DC as their electrical power source. With golf cars, lawn tractors, motor cycles, etc., I've see 6v to 24v. If you want to use a scan tool, you'll need a bi-directional version that can communicate with your car (year, make, model) to activate the motor. These tools are usually big $$$'s ($1,000 +) compared to most scan tools that just read data and rest codes. Bought one tool for $500 advertised as bi-directional. No such animal. Either the software was missing to communicate with my car or the capability wasn't there. Sent it back for a refund,.
@@hardlymovingpro Hi....I understand that most cars run on 12V, but what I was impressed with in you video, was how simple it was using 12V to back the brake off. I was (and am not) sure ALL cars back the brake off the same way. And that's what I was asking. You see I have an Autel MaxiCheck Pro scan tool (just over $200) and it has EPB as an option, where it will do the magic using it. Here's a link to it: www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiCheck-Pro-Diagnostic-Service/dp/B075ZLVXHY/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=2O4JH51HSZQWJ&dchild=1&keywords=autel+maxicheck+pro&qid=1590497099&sprefix=autel+maxi%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyTFQ3V0VCNjBVQkkwJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTU5NDAzMThTSTlXTTNaRFlPNSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjM5NDYyMktTQTBLRUU3UzNCJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== I think I prefer YOUR way, because this way if for some reason the scan tool you have doesn't do THAT MODEL car, you can just hook up the 12 V - IF it works like on this Lexus, on ALL cars. Thanks again for your time to respond!
It was a TRW brand, was hard to find and it wasn't cheap since the car was so new and no aftermarket pad providers. The problem was there wasn't enough grease on the caliper slide pins to allow the caliper to "float" thereby causing uneven pad wear.
Use to buy but expensive and didn't come with new abutment clips. Found Raybestos EHT and Centric PQ Pro pads and coated rotors to be just as good or better. Did a recent replacement on a Audi S4 and owner said it brakes better than when new.
@@hardlymovingpro I agree on the clips but they finally include them now. But yes, they didn’t used to. I’ll definitely check out those rotors, been researching a good set. Thank you!
So for some reason I'm getting these news items on my PC from "Tomorrow's Tech" magazine, and talk about a timing coincidence. Today a new brake thing popped up. This is what it said: "On some European vehicles like Mercedes-Benz models, rear pad life is measured using the electronic parking brake module. The system engages the rear brakes with the stepper motor in the caliper or the motor that actuates the cables. The system will count the number of motor rotations needed to engage the rear brake pads. " So if you saw/caught the part where it said these cars use a STEPPER motor for the parking brakes, well, ya can't "turn" a stepper motor by applying 12V. This is what I was worried about. So, I guess the solution would be to use the - not too expensive - scan tool I sent you the link for.
That's a good price on that scan tool. Looking for something a little bit better that allows me to re-flash a salvaged replacement PCM module. Doesn't happen often, but had a need to replace a car's computer after exhausting all sources on why the car wouldn't run or run right. Believe the heat build up (living in the South) can burn out capacitors on the computer board.
I generally avoid working on German cars unless I can come to a quick resolution. Over engineered. If my fault diagnosis lingers, I don't charge the customer anything and refer them to another shop.
@@hardlymovingpro Autel has scan tools that will take you to the level of a re-flash. But of course they are going to be in the uppers $100's, pushing to, or over $1,000. I showed you the MaxiCheck mainly because it does do the electronic parking brake, and it is very reasonably priced. And my other comment included that it appears that not everybody can just apply 12V, and if they HAVE to get a scan tool, this one is low cost. Actually, I was surprised that the Lexus one was just a DC motor, since I just assumed all of them were steppers (which require a digital drive, not just DC). Thanks again! I always learn new things when I watch your videos!
@@hardlymovingpro I had a few experiences with German cars. And they were enough to make me feel the same way - avoid them whenever possible! For the same reasons you stated....
Instead of using 12v to disengage the ebrake, there's a procedure you do inside the car to do this. He goes over it in this video: ua-cam.com/video/-Y1U8Iw88iA/v-deo.html
@@hardlymovingpro = 🥇🥇🏆🏆 I was reading a Luxus club forum where participants were talking about using an electronic decoder was the only way to solve this. Your solution is GOLD. Thanks Sir!
Oh my god.. Don't you know how to put EPB into a service mode? For those who watching and believing to this *hit - there is more easier way to do this.
@@hardlymovingprostrange, I twice leaved a comments with link to youtube video, where it's explained how to put EPB into a service mode, but they were removed. Ok, I will write it down. How to enable EPB service mode: 1. Switch on ignition (without starging engine) and push EPB switch down. Switch off ignition. 2. Switch on ignition (without starging engine), push and hold brake pedal, move EPB switch 3 times up, then 3 times down. Release the brake pedal, push EPB switch down and hold it. After a while you will here how EPB is releasing. Keep holding EPB switch down until it stop make sounds and "P"(parking endicator) starts flashing on screen. 3. Now you can switch of egnition and do you replacement of rear brakes. How to disable EPB service mode: 1. Switch on ignition. Push and hold brake. Move EPB switch up and hold it. After few seconds you will here how EPB turning back to it's normal position. 2. After EBP will stop making sounds, release EPB and brake pedal. 3. You can enable automatic parking. Push and hold brake pedal, move EPB switch up and release.
For people who don’t feel comfortable unwind the motor by apply 12vdc to it then there is another easier and safer way to do so.
Simply separate the motor from caliper by loosen up 2 fasteners and retract the piston by turning the screw by hand. Hope it helps
Interesting idea! Thanks for sharing.
This really works?? Anyone confirm? I’m having trouble dont want to pay 600
@@g3artacular It works according to another video I just watched, they retracted the brake with a star bit. Each time they compressed caliper, and it stopped, they would retract the motor more until caliper was fully compressed.
i did that with my 2016 rx 350@@g3artacular
Omg this worked for me n my bud thank you. It worked on my 2021 base es350
Thanks a lot for the video! I've watched it and was about to do the same on my wife's 2016 Lexus RX350 when I accidentally discovered a much simpler and easier way to make the car rewind the parking brake motor all the way to the service mode. No messing with wires, no disassembly, clean and simple!
(A note: pulling parking brake button up three times, pushing it down three times and holding it like shown on some videos doesn't work on 2016 Lexus RX350. No matter how I tried, it didn't work. Maybe it works on later year models, but not on 2016)
So I was about to mess with the motors like suggested in this video when I stumbled upon this amazing simple method.
So here's how you do it:
Remove both rear wheels.
Engage parking brake (pull the button up)
Disconnect the parking brake wire from ONE of the calipers, e.g. driver's side.
Now, release the parking brake by pushing the button.
You'll hear long whining sound on the OTHER caliper, i.e. passenger side. Then dash will say "parking brake failure, go see dealer!". Apparently, when you disconnect one caliper, the computer senses its absence, thinks "OMG, malfunction!" and just in case fully retracts the other motor! Bingo! That's exactly what you need!
Now you go and do the brake job on that side like you'd normally do. When you done passenger side, reconnect driver caliper, and engage parking brake. The computer will see that both motors are present and engage the parking brake as usual.
Then you do it the other way around - disconnect the passenger caliper and push the button to release the parking brake. The computer will again think "OMG! Failure!" and retract the driver's motor all the way.
Do the driver's side brake job, reconnect the passenger's, done!
Hope that'll help make your life a bit easier next time you do 2016 Lexus rear brakes!
Good job and thanks for sharing your story!
This is the best way I found regarding rear electrical parking brake retract. I assume the message "parking brake failure, go see dealer!" will disappear once you re-connect all the plugs? Also do you turn off the car once the parking brake retract and while you are doing the rear brake job?
@@kenli4807 you will need a code or scan tool to fix. Your assumption is not right. The message not go away on it owns.
It did go away on its own. I have a 2016 rx350 as well.
This is what I discovered on my own after accidentally breaking the wiring connector. Had to order a used break wiring harness from Lithuania in order to fix it myself.
I just saved 1100.00 bucks by doing this my self, (A local Auto shop quoted me a price for this task) thanks fir the video I'm ready to replace the rear brakes
Glad it helped!
$1,100 for this? Wow! I just changed all of my 2010 RX 350 brake pads, plus all the sliding pin boots. The cost was $155 plus six hours of my own time. Doing the electronic release of the rear calipers would probably add half more hour to the job. but it'd be totally worth it.
Good for you!
6 hours???? To do brakes?
I have a 2010 RX 350. So I don't need to electronically release its rear calipers. But watching your video was an educational and informative experience. You've done a great service for the DIY crowd, Sir! Thank You!
Thanks for your post and critique!
I have to mention one more fantastic thing about you, and your videos. You respond to people! I asked you a question or two previously, on other videos you did also, and you always respond. That is something that means a lot to me. I watch various videos, and somebody will do something a certain way, or use a certain tool, and I'll be asking myself - WHY is he doing it THAT way, or why use THAT tool? And too many others making the videos either don't want to, or have the time to respond. So thanks for being there for me, and the others that watch you!!!
Hey ... glad to help you out and thank you for your support!
great video. short and to the point. everything stated in video worked. i used a 12 volt portable remote jump start /charger (the size of a cell phone) to activate and retract the caliper piston. if not for this video, i would have been stuck. other videos used a special tool to supply 12 volt power to the motor. this video kept it simple. thank you.
Great news and thanks for sharing your experience!
I kid u not. Stopped at a tire spot to get the brakes and pad done. When it came to the rear they were stomp... some how found this video. Show them. They were able to complete the job. Lol. Almost sent me on my way. Smh
Shops have to keep up with new technology!
Hey man you just saved my life turning the E Brake Off!!! Couldn’t get the caliper off hahah!
Good for you!
I appreciate the video but there is a way to set the car in “brake service mode” which retracts the EPB and also put its back when you’re done. Viktor G Automotive has a video on how to do it.
Thanks for sharing!
The 9 volt battery worked beautifully to unwind the emergency brake.
Good for you and thanks for sharing!
Did not know about the electric parking brake. Thanks good to know. Dealership would charge an arm and leg to do this
Yup. Was scratching my head trying to figure out how to compress the caliper piston back in. Only added a few extra minutes to the brake job retracting the parking brake motor screw.
Hardly Moving Productions where can I get that wire setup used to retract the caliber? Thanks in advance
I didn't got one of those yet, but I'm shure this is going to be useful. Thanks
No problem 👍
I used kids 12v car battery to retract rear brake minus(-) AND plus(+) from your view angle then used vice to squeeze. Remember to ignition then pump brake multiple time then manual park on and off for initialization.
Thanks for sharing!
What do you mean “manual park on and off”?
@@damon323 manual parking brake switch near seat climate control area.
@@yoonlee5278 Awesome, thank you!
Thanks a lot for the info I had an issue in changing my Toyota vellfire rear pads
Glad it helped!
Another fantastic video! Thank You Sir!
Very welcome!
thanks just saved our ass, our snap on zues wasn't communicating on a last minute brake job....
Good old fashion low tech solution prevails!
@@hardlymovingpro thanks again you saved it ass lol we’re so used to doing shit with high tech gadgets we don’t thing about the analog way.... lol
Live and learn.
Great video even just for the electric parking brake info….Any idea what year they started putting electric Ebrakes on Lexus? I had a 2010 and it didn’t have one…which was fine by me
Hard to say. Maybe around 2015
Why would you not remove the sliders and clean them and relube them? The top one was dry and not sliding.
They were lubed at the 4:54 time mark. Nothing to clean ... just apply more lube.
Great video as always.
I appreciate that!
Thanks for showing me
You bet!
Thank you, Hardly for this Video.
You bet!
Great video, thank you for doing this!! you are a life saver
Our pleasure!
This is not any break wear indicator. It's almost flush with the metal base. If you go by that - you will go metal on metal.
It's just a spring to push on pads so that they don't rattle in the brackets.
It's a wear indicator to show that you're around 1 to 2 mm of pad life left. When the indicator touches the rotor (metal to metal), they'll be a high pitch squeal. You've got a little time before the rotor and the metal pad will contact each other; then sparks will begin to fly! Brake rattle is prevented with abutment clips which reside between the ears of the pad and the caliper brake pad mount points.
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video!
Thanks!
Good video. But 1 of the brake pads was wrong on each side. They are different.
Thanks for sharing but they can be mounted on either side.
What can you do if piston ‘flew out’? It’s still in place but expended all the way out and won’t go back in. Appreciate any help.
Release the parking brake and press the piston back in.
@@hardlymovingpro I tried this however the piston appeared to be dislodged. I was able to set it back in it's bore (or at least that's what I think I was doing) after disconnecting it from the brake hose - Thank you for your quick help and creating these videos!
how to disengage the electric parking brake? simply press the the "P" button? Or there are certain proecess we need to fellow in order to put it the parking brake released model? I am trying to replace my RX 350 Rear brake Pad, and just don't want miss anything, and get myself in troubles.
Even with the parking brake being electronically release via the "P" button, the parking brake motor must be recessed (as shown in this video) in order to compress the brake pistons back into the caliper to install new pads.
why don't you do it the right way...all you do is trun key on . foot on the break ...pull on parking brake switch 3 times then push on it three times and hold until you see the light blink... to re engage just pull up on the switch and hold with key on and foot on break , till light goes out
Doesn't work all the time and a lot of steps. But thanks for sharing!
Thank you soooooooooo much!!!!
You bet ... no problem!
Where can I get a 12v pair of leads like you used here?
I provided a product link in the "Show More" text description of this video.
I have a Lexus Rx 350 2018 , I would like to know if i have to Disengage the Electronic Parking Brake to Replaces the front Brakes? Please be advised.
For the fronts, no
I messed up and the piston came out of the caliper. Any tips how to get it back in? The boot isn’t quite elastic enough for my fat fingers
Remove the brake bleed valve and push the the piston back in. Reinstall the valve and use a brake bleed suction tool to create a vacuum in the caliper cavities. The vacuum will pull in brake fluid.
Never use anti-seize on brake pins.
That's correct. Use silicone based grease.
Great video, thanks! May I ask? What brand/model number is that tool you used to depress the caliper piston? It looks like it's built strong (heavy duty), and easy to use. I'd like to get one.
Thanks for your comment! It a dual piston caliper piston compressor tools. Can also be used on single piston calipers. Here's a link to the tool: amzn.to/2TBOkWV
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks! I was and am impressed with the structure of the design of it. It appears more balanced in that it will apply EVEN pressure to the piston and not cock it one way or the other. I really appreciate you taking the time to share, and even provide a link.....Thank you again!
No problem!
@@hardlymovingpro Listen, I just have to mention....you said that the piston depressor will do a dual piston caliper, and I can see that. When I said it is "balanced", and that is important to me, I mainly do single piston calipers, and was using the ratcheting kind, and it too is fairly wide (so it can do dual ones), but it fits into the caliper in such a way that it can, and does "press" unevenly - like to one side of the piston, or the other. So THAT is why I told you I liked the one you had (which I ordered, and is coming today), because the two legs the plate rides on, force it to be even from side-to-side. Just wanted to share that. Thank you again!
why not use the service mode to withdraw the piston ?
Yes. Can work on models from 2020 on up.
Isn’t there an easier way like a service mode which toy can access?
Other way is to buy an expensive scan tool that can communicate with the brake motor.
Questions...
Should we lube the shims that the shoes slide on? Would it be best to pull the caliber pins and clean them and lube them?
Do NOT want to own a vehicle with this electric brake mechanism. ...Thanks for the video...
You mean the pad shims and pads? If so, yes ... apply high temp brake grease between the shims and pads to prevent brake squeal. You can pull the pins all the way out to clean them but don't grease them up until around 1/3 or 1/4 way in the caliper pin hole. Otherwise, an air pocket will form inside the caliper pin hole and you may have difficulty pushing the pins all the way back into the hole.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for the additional information. It is helpful! I always check those rubber boots that are on the pins, for cracks and holes.... when I pull Them.
Sure you all do the same.
@@bwest-yq3uc Absolutely! But this car is less than 3 years old and the pin dust boots were fine. What was messed up were the caliper pins. They were locked up from lack of lubricant which caused the uneven brake pad wear.
Changed rear brakes pads on 17 Lexus rx 350. Now the electrical e brake system malfunction. Any help please ? I’m at work so I cant watch. Thank you.
Check your fuse, if on exists for the e brakes, in the fuse box.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks !
What brake pads did you use
TRW...but any name brand will work like Akebono, Centrix, Raybestos, Dynamic Force, etc.
What model of caliper retraction tool do you have.
A link to a dual piston caliper compression tool is in the description of this video
One more question - please? On this Lexus you applied the 12V to turn the motor. Would you know if many other car brands are the same way? These electronic parking brakes are very popular now, and some say you need a scan tool to do what you did. If all you have to do is apply 12v to any of them, it sure would make it easier. So I'm asking - if you know - are many/most like this (just apply 12V)?
As far as I know, all cars on the road today conform to 12v DC as their electrical power source. With golf cars, lawn tractors, motor cycles, etc., I've see 6v to 24v. If you want to use a scan tool, you'll need a bi-directional version that can communicate with your car (year, make, model) to activate the motor. These tools are usually big $$$'s ($1,000 +) compared to most scan tools that just read data and rest codes. Bought one tool for $500 advertised as bi-directional. No such animal. Either the software was missing to communicate with my car or the capability wasn't there. Sent it back for a refund,.
@@hardlymovingpro Hi....I understand that most cars run on 12V, but what I was impressed with in you video, was how simple it was using 12V to back the brake off. I was (and am not) sure ALL cars back the brake off the same way. And that's what I was asking. You see I have an Autel MaxiCheck Pro scan tool (just over $200) and it has EPB as an option, where it will do the magic using it. Here's a link to it: www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiCheck-Pro-Diagnostic-Service/dp/B075ZLVXHY/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=2O4JH51HSZQWJ&dchild=1&keywords=autel+maxicheck+pro&qid=1590497099&sprefix=autel+maxi%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyTFQ3V0VCNjBVQkkwJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTU5NDAzMThTSTlXTTNaRFlPNSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjM5NDYyMktTQTBLRUU3UzNCJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
I think I prefer YOUR way, because this way if for some reason the scan tool you have doesn't do THAT MODEL car, you can just hook up the 12 V - IF it works like on this Lexus, on ALL cars. Thanks again for your time to respond!
What are all the tools & socket sizes you used to change the brakes?
You can use a standard metric socket wrench set.
Do you know what the torque specs are for the brake caliper or the lug nuts on the tire?
Lug nuts around 80 lbs. I don't use a torque wrench for small nuts and bolts.
where can i buy the cable?
I made it
What brake pads did you replace with? My 2016 is chewing up OEMs
It was a TRW brand, was hard to find and it wasn't cheap since the car was so new and no aftermarket pad providers. The problem was there wasn't enough grease on the caliper slide pins to allow the caliper to "float" thereby causing uneven pad wear.
Dude, you need Akebono brake pads. Japanese made, best there is by far
Use to buy but expensive and didn't come with new abutment clips. Found Raybestos EHT and Centric PQ Pro pads and coated rotors to be just as good or better. Did a recent replacement on a Audi S4 and owner said it brakes better than when new.
@@hardlymovingpro I agree on the clips but they finally include them now. But yes, they didn’t used to. I’ll definitely check out those rotors, been researching a good set. Thank you!
So for some reason I'm getting these news items on my PC from "Tomorrow's Tech" magazine, and talk about a timing coincidence. Today a new brake thing popped up. This is what it said: "On some European vehicles like Mercedes-Benz models, rear pad life is measured using the electronic parking brake module. The system engages the rear brakes with the stepper motor in the caliper or the motor that actuates the cables. The system will count the number of motor rotations needed to engage the rear brake pads. "
So if you saw/caught the part where it said these cars use a STEPPER motor for the parking brakes, well, ya can't "turn" a stepper motor by applying 12V. This is what I was worried about. So, I guess the solution would be to use the - not too expensive - scan tool I sent you the link for.
That's a good price on that scan tool. Looking for something a little bit better that allows me to re-flash a salvaged replacement PCM module. Doesn't happen often, but had a need to replace a car's computer after exhausting all sources on why the car wouldn't run or run right. Believe the heat build up (living in the South) can burn out capacitors on the computer board.
I generally avoid working on German cars unless I can come to a quick resolution. Over engineered. If my fault diagnosis lingers, I don't charge the customer anything and refer them to another shop.
@@hardlymovingpro Autel has scan tools that will take you to the level of a re-flash. But of course they are going to be in the uppers $100's, pushing to, or over $1,000. I showed you the MaxiCheck mainly because it does do the electronic parking brake, and it is very reasonably priced. And my other comment included that it appears that not everybody can just apply 12V, and if they HAVE to get a scan tool, this one is low cost.
Actually, I was surprised that the Lexus one was just a DC motor, since I just assumed all of them were steppers (which require a digital drive, not just DC). Thanks again! I always learn new things when I watch your videos!
@@hardlymovingpro I had a few experiences with German cars. And they were enough to make me feel the same way - avoid them whenever possible! For the same reasons you stated....
Instead of using 12v to disengage the ebrake, there's a procedure you do inside the car to do this. He goes over it in this video:
ua-cam.com/video/-Y1U8Iw88iA/v-deo.html
That's wild and good to know! Thanks for sharing! The dude did say it may not work all the time and that all the steps can be a hassle.
👏👏👏👏👏
Thanks!
@@hardlymovingpro = 🥇🥇🏆🏆
I was reading a Luxus club forum where participants were talking about using an electronic decoder was the only way to solve this. Your solution is GOLD. Thanks Sir!
@@passZword Thanks. Simple solution.
Bro this is not the way to do this job lol
Show us your vid?
Oh my god.. Don't you know how to put EPB into a service mode?
For those who watching and believing to this *hit - there is more easier way to do this.
More details to put it in service mode please.
@@hardlymovingprostrange, I twice leaved a comments with link to youtube video, where it's explained how to put EPB into a service mode, but they were removed. Ok, I will write it down.
How to enable EPB service mode:
1. Switch on ignition (without starging engine) and push EPB switch down. Switch off ignition.
2. Switch on ignition (without starging engine), push and hold brake pedal, move EPB switch 3 times up, then 3 times down. Release the brake pedal, push EPB switch down and hold it. After a while you will here how EPB is releasing. Keep holding EPB switch down until it stop make sounds and "P"(parking endicator) starts flashing on screen.
3. Now you can switch of egnition and do you replacement of rear brakes.
How to disable EPB service mode:
1. Switch on ignition. Push and hold brake. Move EPB switch up and hold it. After few seconds you will here how EPB turning back to it's normal position.
2. After EBP will stop making sounds, release EPB and brake pedal.
3. You can enable automatic parking. Push and hold brake pedal, move EPB switch up and release.
@@BarbosSergos It only works on the newer models. My 2019 RX350 doesn't support it.