Curiosities of old Clerkenwell & tributaries of the River Fleet (4K)
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- This classic London history walk explores some of the mysteries of medieval Clerkenwell with a focus on its wells and a possible lost tributary of the River Fleet. We then cross Farringdon Road and walk along the course of the Lamb's Conduit - another tributary of the Fleet.
Includes: St John's Gardens, St John's Gate, St John's Path, the Holy Tavern, Jerusalem Passage, Clerkenwell Green, St John's Close, St James' Church site of St Mary's Nunnery, the Clerkenwell Bridewell Prison, The Clerk's Well, Little Italy, Mount Pleasant, Roger Street, Great Ormond Street, Lamb's Conduit Street.
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Over the Meadow, Over the Stream - Alan Rogers
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Largely because of YOUR videos, I spent 4 months exploring England. 1 month in each place.. walking Rochester, Chatham, Coventry and Portsmouth. Feeling.. thinking about the history as I walked everyday.
Cheers.. Curtis 57, retired US Navy in Las Vegas
Where did you like the most, Curtis?
How wonderful! You have so much more to see as well, and well done for spending time.. I always tell visitors to look up when they are walking around, and take notes of what they've seen , then research it (if they don't have a book, or can't get wifi to check)
A little poem I wrote from many many years ago....
Under steel grey sky I wander,
Through Holburn's empty streets.
Past doorways filled with life's left turns,
Down Leather Lane I retreat.
At Clerkenwell I once found love,
We sat entwined upon a stair.
Elastic wrapped around my arm,
Warm rushes pulse unto my hair.
In dreams I float upon the Fleet,
Carried underground.
Lights flash past, and chances missed,
In hopelessness I'm found.
Thrust forcefully into London air,
By London Bridge I lie.
Cast out among the detritus,
I am under still grey sky.
💜
I've only had a wander around Clerkenwell a couple of times, but once you get away from the hustle and bustle of Farringdon station, it's like a whole different world.
Quiet, very few people around, little streets and alleyways . . . a very mysterious place.
As a northerner I could live there 👍
There's a book by Peter Ackroyd set in Clerkenwell in the 16th Century. It's about Doctor Dee, an alchemist, mathematician and occultist who lived there and served queen Elizabeth I. There's a lot of mystery in the book. The title is 'The House of Doctor Dee'. (Not sure he ever lived there in reality, though he did live in London).
It's hard to put into words, the feeling of certain parts of London, and Clerkenwell is a good example. There's an understated tidiness to the architecture of some of these streets, mixed often with a bit more prevalence of trees and shrubs, but more, an elusive magic that reaches way, way back.. I think this owes a lot to the presence of hidden watercourses, and these vibes really come through the screen in your excellent films John. So I think you thoroughly deserve a couple of pints after a walk like this. Really enjoyable!
Nice one John. 🌟👍
I worked In Clerkenwell for about 10 years, and there is something strange about the area that's hard to pin down. I remember that in winter, the cold seemed to gather in that tangle of streets centred on Clerkenwell Green
So did I; it timeless
Another great walk, brings up memories of me "temping" at various offices around the area in the 90s and early 2000s. Thanks John 😊
Talk about a walk down memory lane! I lived in Brewers Buildings Rawstorne Street EC1 London Borough of Finsbury near the Angel for decades. Apparently they were built by the Honourable Society of Brewers for their workers. Beautiful crest of arms over tbe entrance door. 'In God is All Our Trust'. Had to move as it got more and more expensive and gentrified. It was a wonderful place to live and walk especially at weekends when it was so quiet. Nowhere else like it for the sense of a mysterious past seeping in and out of tbe present. Thanks for resurrecting bittersweet memories😢
I read this and it summoned the same feelings. Lived in old street and my first job was in plum tree court near Farringdon. That was over 25 years ago and remember going to Italian festival held this time of year. I literally visited all those pubs , such history and atmosphere. Now live in a beachside suburb Cronulla in Sydney, you couldn’t get a more polar opposite place than EC1…in fact our suburb is only 15 years old 🤣…
I’ve looked for the walls too - but I think they’re buried unfortunately.
I used to work in the Museum of the Order of St John, so got to explore a lot of St John’s gate. The rooms inside are amazing - I think you can book tours. On my first day I was working in one of the rooms on the ground floor and police horses clopped through the gate.
The gate’s mentioned in two of Ackroyd’s novels - the Clerkenwell Tales and the Lambs of London, in very different guises
Bemjamin Street is narrow but then widens out because the heavier carts going uphill could go to one side and others go past.
St Johns Square is now in two halves as Clerkenwell road was driven through to the railway in the 1860's. Before, in the 18th century, this square and the surrounding streets such as Red Lion St (now Britton St.) were full of watchmakers and their associated trades. This industry was greatly diminished by the trade blockades of the Napoleonic wars and never really recovered. From 1816 onwards, the Swiss took over watchmaking in the 19th century with their much cheaper imports.
I was born in St Thomas H and grew up in the Peabody flats in Clerkenwell close...always felt like it was our own little revolutionary village, especially on a Sunday when St James bells were rung and there was nobody around, love your videos John, they bring me peace
Many thanks for sharing that
London just keeps on giving. it’s endless. can’t wait to return.
“a feral whiff”!! love it
Without question my favourite part of London and it has the best three pubs.❤
Always love a walk around the City and environs
Fascinating. The entire walk was watery. Loved the history of Clerkenwell, very interesting part of the city.
I studied in that area a couple of years ago and now wish I'd had the chance to explore more than I did! Happy memories!
I worked in Smithfield in the 1960s. Early morning cuppa at OFS and then up Cowcross Street. passed our factory at the end of Greenhill Rents and then round the to the shop in Charterhouse Street. Our warehouse was on the corner of St Johns Street and Clerkenwell Road. Loved the place - changed quite a lot since!
Thanks for the tour.
Thanks again John. One of my favourite parts of London and hunting hidden rivers one of my favourite things to watch.
I spent many a night in Fabric by Smithfields... half a life ago now 25 years in the past, I lived in that club from Oct 99 to late 03 and I mean lived in it at least twice a week Sat and Sun for nearly 4 years.
Really enjoyable walk through quiet backstreets and narrow alleys which transport you back to a time when water flowed freely above ground and Snipe were locally sourced. Wonderfull. Thank you.
I really enjoyed this video as I studied at City University in the 1960s, regularly walking through Clerkenwell Green.
London never disappoints, another lovely stroll with wells, mews & alleyways.
Hi John, I worked in Clerkenwell Green for NetBenefit, years ago (opposite the pub, a few bulidings away from the Royal Philharmonic). Not sure if you know, but Nick Hornbys 'About a Boy' was part filmed there. The two telephone boxes were boarded and used as the News stand in the film, with a building to the side of the church used as entrabnce to Marcus & Fiona's abode. My former engineers said that on completion of filming, Hugh Grant was in The Crown Tavern buying drinks for everyone.
I just found your channel last week. I have been binge watching it. I'm a proud Texan from USA, but I think I would love U.K. Thank you for sharing it with us across the old pond 👍👍👍
Welcome to the channel Vicki - so glad you're enjoying the videos and hope you get to visit some day
My mum grew up at 15 Benjamin street - a row house that was in front of St John's Park. Torn down in the 1960s. The gardener always used to give her a bouquet of flowers from the garden to take to her teacher at St. Sepulchres
Fantastic video once again John. This, to me, feels like going on holiday without leaving the house,. I've been to London a few times and I love it (I live in The Netherlands).
This was a great one John! My work / darkroom was in Grays Inn Road for seven years from the late 90s, so for once, every street was familiar in the video. We were just round the corner from the Duke, near the Egyptian Exploration Society, which was always a fine pub with great food and welcoming dark, wooden interiors. Was always fascinated by the hills and declines all the nearby roads have, and the tales how Mount Pleasant was formed, so this was great to get a better understanding of all those tributaries of the Fleet.
I love these walks!!!😊😊
That was a fantastic walk John, brought so many memories back for me of my years living in the area and Gt.Ormond St hosp plus Coram fields. 💕🇦🇺
As always John, great walk. Really really interesting. 👍🏻
Nice one John, wonderful walk...
Thanks Ralph
London never disappoints, some incredible Georgian architecture
Such lovely neighbourhoods in this wonderful quest for wells! What a great idea for a walk. Really enjoyed this one - thanks so much!
superb work ! my name is John i’ve lived here for 25yrs and I still love the area.
Nunnery walls - As you walk up Clerkenwell Close from the Green, past The Three Kings pub and on the right there’s another entrance to St James Church Garden. That’s where you’ll notice the nunnery’s cloister walls left exposed.
Many thanks- is that on the left of the gate? Appreciate your help
It’s on the right of the gate where you’ll notice there are some concrete stools right in front of the wall. Mind you, it’s the second gate at the back. I can send you a photo I took the other day when cycling from work.
I went to primary school across the road from the Duke. So many happy memories
Great video John 👍👍📗📗📗👍👍
Thanks Alan
Cool, memories of working and drinking around there many years ago!
I used to work in the now demolished Turnmills building on the corner of Turnmill Street and Farringdon Road at the turn of the millennium. Also home to the famous nightclub Never really explored the area but regret that now. I remember an e-mail being sent to everyone about something called Thameslink 2000 that would effect the area as Farrington station would be rebuilt. I remember thinking it would make my commute easier as it would involve direct trains from where I live in Worthing. I ended up being made redundant a few months later and Thameslink didn't open until 2018 in the end
Is also said that Lenin and Stalin met in the Crown and Anchor (now Crown Tavern) when he visited London in 1903 but I believe that is disputed.
We would be in Turnmills every Friday night and Sunday Morning for years from 98 to 03, in fact there was in the basement of Turnmills in the nightclub a grate down which you could hear the running of water....
@@miamijim5964 A veritable den of iniquity.
@@paulwally9007 I bloody loved it :)
@@miamijim5964 I only went once. Coincidentally, I had my nipples pierced in Clerkenwell about 1990.
@@paulwally9007 with pierced nipples you should have attended more often.. especially the Sunday morning :)
keep bringing top videos like this, great like success always
Ahh my part of London, eons ago 😊
Lovely. I don’t know why but your walks are enthralling. Thanks John
Your enthusiasm is infectious. It comes through in your videos. I enjoy your spirit of adventure.
Wonderful video, especially for all your enthusiasm. Reminds, me I haven't been to London since 2019...
Your voice is ASMR for me😊 it make me happy 😊
Great video thank you so much - I love learning all these interesting facts 👌
Love your videos, thank you. I miss London so much but this is all new to me. If I had my time again I would live in Clerkenwell if I could.
Your walks are fascinating but I really love your ending, listening to your father singing his delightful ditty! Thanks to the both of us!
Between the church park and the house of correction are flats from the late 90s, it was a bomb site for ages. Me and my pals would play in there a lot and there were definitely old stone walls and a stone arch but obviously now covered. We used to call it "the dump"
This is great ,,about 15 years ago my daughter was in a St John’s ambulance thingy for kids and we visited a museum at St John’s square ,,we went on a coach and I had no idea where we was ,the inner m25 is abit overwhelming to me ,,but I recognised the gate to the square immediately,,,,thanks for clearing that up lol
Great video, love that area and the walks ❤
Another scenic walk around another part of the city bursting with stories.
Thank you. Great video
Great video, John! Clerkenwell is one of my favourite areas and I spend many of my Saturdays there. Just up from Clerkenwell Green on Sekforde Street is a beautifully preserved old bank building of the Finsbury Savings Bank which was used by Charles Dickens. Go and have a look when you're next down that way! The Sekforde pub also has some great history to it!
A very interesting Sunday video.
Wonderful episode, John. It brought back many memories of lunchtime rambles through Clerkenwell, working as a freelance writer for a number of publishers and professional bodies in the area. A confession; in the days before street maps on 'phones, I once lost my bearings in Clerkenwell and couldn't workout how to get back to the office. I hailed a cab and gave the cabbie the office address, which salvaged my predicament and stupidity. Greetings from Bodmin Moor - the remote bit.
Clerkenwell. Its always an intriguing looking place in the videos. You can feel the history
THe Holy Tavern; the building is old enough, but it only became a pub (The Jerusalem Tavern, St Peter's Brewery) in 1996, changing its name (and ownership) in 2022.
Thanks for the info Gareth
I'm somhow always shocked when a pub changes its name, even when it is as dubiously 'authentic' as the old St John of Jerusalem, as we seem to have called it? Sorry to hear St Peter's Brewery has gone, a very good pint or five was had there of an evening.
@@chazzyb8660 I think the Holy Tavern still serves some beers from St Peter's Brewery...
In the mid 80s I had an office directly opposite what is now the Holy Tavern but back then it was a publisher’s premises before becoming a coffee house and after that The Old Jerusalem Tavern.
The original Old Jerusalem Tavern was on the left hand side and adjacent to St John’s Gate house on the Clerkenwell Road side. I have a photo that I took from an old book on Clerkenwell showing this. I think the book was published in the late 19c and the picture is credited to the London Stereoscopic Co.
Fascinating walk. I used to stay at a friend's flat just off Clerkenwell Close. This was back in the 80s. Love the alleyways and side streets. Wandering around there is like walking through history.
Thank you John from Istanbul, I watched almost all your videos and really enjoyed. I hope to join your walks one time in the near future.
Also in Rugby street off Lambs's Conduit street there is the medieval the White Conduit (1300s) originally part of the water supply to the Greyfriars Monastery, Newgate Street. The marble well head is underground in a shop which originally was French's Dairy. There is plaque to explain
Loving looking at the rivers of London, John. As a wild colonial boy on the other side of the world, and only having known London as a Mercator Projection, it has been an eye-opener as to how hilly it can be. Thanks also, for putting us on to Ben Aaronovitch's books. I am reading them all as fast as I can get them.
I love those street and place names that describe their purpose, like Cowcross Street. Thanks for the wonderful videos.
I had my nipples pierced in Clerkenwell in about 1990. Today that sounds commonplace but 34 years ago I think that was one of only two places in the capital that provided the service. I think I ended up in the Magistrates' court as well, though the two incidents were unconnected.
Wonderful film John, always the most timeless and magical part of town
Aww John..😂...Sunday Evening couldn't be more perfect now from the Sunny Scott8sh Borders!! These streets I used ro roam, when i used to walk up Lambs Conduit to Brunswick to watch a weekly Arthouse Movie(the Prince Charles), I always remember seeing the Swedenborg, building across theobalds road?(I never really knew what it was , always thought Seances😅,but i remember you and Iain Sinclair always talking about it!!, o e criticism though the Video was too short, noooo, thanks it was brilliant!!Also love your Dad's closing Shanty, it's perfect
Top draw historical London as always JR...💚💛❤️N15🇲🇺
Thanks John, a lovely walk ,great history, looks to be a very nice part of London .....Best Martin.
Great video John. Always appreciated!
Great watch & listen, thanks for your workings John - excellence.
Regards
Many thanks!
A pleasent walk around what may be the very best enclave in London
Great vid John. Normally a spring will serve one well, entering at some depth and draining from the top. We had two, one running through the cellar and one at the front with a pump. The source would have been on higher ground giving the well a ‘head’ of water. Ours was about 12ft above the well and was piped in the 1700’s when clay piping became commercially available. Until then it’d have just been a little flow down the hillside into boggy ground at the bottom. Could we assume that the clientele of The Three Kings support Orient? 😉😉⚽️👍
thank you so much for this excellent video, John - I have watched this and shared several times. I've worked a stones throw from Cowcross Street for the last 12 years and LOVE history, especially London history, so I appreciate this video so much. You pronounce Clerkenwell as "Clark-en-well" and not "Clerk-en-well" ... I had always assumed the latter all this time. "Clerk" ... I never knew this all these years. My office will love this video.
I love a good mystery John. Clerkenwelll is such a fascinating area which I have walked many times. I’m hoping to visit The Clerk’s Well at some point (I did book to see the ‘Roman Bath’s’ off Aldwych a couple of years ago and thoroughly enjoyed that). The area around Lambs Conduit Street is so interesting too. I have been documenting memorial plaques in this area recently so it was great to see you in here too. Great stuff!
Great walk John. I did the walk up Cowcross St many times from Farringdon to St Barts whilst having Radiotherapy after an operation in 08. Still looks very familiar 👍🏼
My great great grandparents were married at St James's Church in Clerkenwell - and he was a clerk in the courthouse.
Superb John, thank you
Thanks! Beautiful and interesting walk!
Many thanks- massively appreciated
I'm curious about St. John's Square. In researching my family, I found references that suggest the square was once consecrated ground. It is unclear to me whether the bodies were collected up and deposited in an ossuary or it it was just paved over--when I can't seem to discover--or maybe it wasn't a churchyard at all? The only certainty I have is that one of my ancestors was buried at a place recorded as St. John's Square. I imagiine it would be much easier to figure it all out with feet on the ground, but I'm trying to put the pieces of the puzzle together from the other side of the globe, so there's likely something I'm missing.
Clerkenwell holds many memories...Turnmills for 90s raves and 00s Tuesday night salsa sessions. The watch repair industry centred around junction St John's Street and Clerkenwell Road and many afternoons walking or cycling around the area in a similar vein to your fascinating video. Thanks John!
PS as an aside to the poster at the end of the video, I can recommend getting in touch with the Heritage of London Trust. You won't be disappointed!
Tweedy Pubs channel is worth a look. He goes into an in depth history of the pubs he visits. All the time wearing a tweed suit.......
Another informative and interesting vid.thank you john.stay safe.
Thanks Keith
Wonderful.
Amazing video John! Such interesting part of town
Thanks Sally - hope all is well with you
THankyou!
Absolutely fantastic 👌🏼
Nice walk good video.. of Farringdon and the surrounding areas 🇬🇧🇬🇧
Thanks
That was a fun walk, thanks.
Thanks Mark
l was fortunate to work for a charity based in an early Georgian house in Lambs Conduit Street, in the main office [once the 1st floor drawing room] was beautifully constructed and proportioned wainscoting surmounted by a fantastic bold cornicing.
But, best of all in the middle of the ,slightly later [1740s]? ceiling were a pair of exquisitely wrought plaster Cupids, gambolling away as we drudged our way through endless paperwork.
They gave each of us TREMENDOUS pleasure and solace through the day, with their beauty and playfulness..
The entire house, though [relatively] modest [in comparison to the incredibly grand houses in nearby Great James Street] was so beautifully considered and built - the staircase l raced up [a hundred times a day], had amazingly user friendly 'treads', so it never felt tiring, or a chore to climb.
Beautiful, bold bolection moulding survived on every door, unchanged from when the house was constructed..
The work was ok, but humdrum, but that house made working there a COMPLETE pleasure, and i've never forgotten the joy it bought to those years,
Hello John, this is Martin from the East Riding of Yorkshire. Just watched your latest video of the streets of London. Again as i always say, you are a genius when it comes to the History of London, and as I always say, what David Attenborough is to wold nature, you are to British History. And again I shall say it, you should have your own TV program on national TV. You fully deserve it. Thank you once again for an amazing journey thru history. Keep safe John and ill be tuning in to your next masterpiece best wishes. 👍🇬🇧
I really enjoy watching your videos. I love your evident enthusiasm, keep up the good work.
thanks Trevor
TYFS! what a treat to see a John Rogers film in my area (grays inn road). I was surprised to see you missed the Rugby Tavern.
Just what I needed 👍🏼 Thanks 🍻
Pink's History of Clerkenwell freely available here in PDF format: books.google.com/books/download/The_History_of_Clerkenwell.pdf?id=s09NAQAAMAAJ&output=pdf 887 pages! :-)
Thanks John. I love the history of Clerkenwell. Did you know that the White Conduit ended up in the basement of a shop near Lamb's Conduit. I saw it under glass in what was an old Dairy, but was then, twenty years ago, a women's fashion shop. They closed, and went to Folkestone the last I heard. Don't know what happened to the White Conduit though. I could dig out a photo of the shop front if you wish. James Goold
Still there
But may I add that's not Clerkenwell it's Bloomsbury
Thanks for that great video, John
A random memory about the area that someone might be able to confirm or correct me about... In the 1980's I took a photography darkroom printing class in a classic old multi story Victorian school in the area. It was one of those City Institute adult education things. It gave me access to a top quality darkroom that I didn't have at home, with just a small contribution for chemicals, papers etc in an age when that was the only way to make photos - to print from a negative. I used to get off the tube at Farringdon and walk by the underground tracks to get to Clerkenwell Road. Cross over it and up the hill past St. James church and then my memory goes a little off. It is over 40 years ago now and much of the area has been re-built so losing much of the old, overcast Victorian brick built "vibe". The only old Victorian school type building I can see on the map is no longer a school but something called Kingsway Place (Sans Walk EC1). It looks like it may have been the old school and been turned into offices and so on. Can anyone remind me of the name of the school and say something about its history please?
Hi Brian. What is now flats at Kingsway Place was the Hugh Myddelton Schools, later Kingsway College.
It's Sunday night, and joy has landed. Thank you John, normal service is resumed and I'm explaining to my wife why I am unavailable for half an hour. #SorryNotsorry
Wonderful hope you enjoyed it Steve.
@JohnRogersWalks I am very much John. I like the mystery you were aiming to uncover and how we went on that journey with you. Wonderful.
Bloody hell mate, this one's a bit early!
Ha, I thought ‘why wait?, it’s such a lovely day’
About 30 years ago you could tour the underground vaults of the House of Correction but it seems to have been closed to the public for many years now. I remember they provided an audio commentary as you walked round the square. There wasn't much to see to be honest but it was very atmospheric.
The cells under the old prison that's now Kingsway Place? They open them up at least once a year for Clerkenwell Design Week, and have displays in there. Not much like you say, but still a lot of original cell doors etc.
@@manticoreaw Yes, good to know people can still see them.
Great video John , thank you , just started reading your new book , sense this is a much deeper dive into the evolution and psychogeography of post Olympics London ,much different from your first book , I guess that's why it took you ten years to write , really drawing me in , I'm enjoying it very much , all the best 🌈💖☯️
That’s great to hear Leslie - many thanks
brilliant stuff JR.