Richard Raffan gets four bowls from a short box elder log.
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- In this, the first in a trilogy, you see in real time how I cut two blanks from a short log, then rough-turn each bowl, saving the inside of each for another two bowls. You see the four finished bowls at the end of the video. You can see these bowls being completed in:
• Richard Raffan complet... and • Richard Raffan complet...
It’s really interesting watching you. As you English say you don’t muck about. You really go after it when roughing out your bowls unlike even people who we amateurs would consider expert. I think I’m getting a view of what a real production turner works like. It’s great fun, entertaining and very informative. Thank you!
To make a living by selling what you've turned on a lathe you have to work efficiently. There's not much time to muck about when orders need delivering on time and usually within a few weeks.
Never ever have I seen a “jimmy” used with such skill!!!
My copies of your books are well-worn now and your videos are a much-appreciated complement. Thank you!
Many thanks for the contribution.
Of course, at the age of 79, you don't need praise, you have a lifetime of them, but nevertheless it is with an indescribable pleasure that I see you shitting on the master boys who even today don't know what wood they are turning and only bought a lathe for a month or two but they already give classes, to others even more ignorant of course,...,... your wisdom, practicality, technical speed and vision of what is to come is delicious, thank you for existing and for offering us such "concerts",... stay safe and healthy,...and have a great time,... from Portugal, Paulo de Tarso
I'm rumbled.....
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning what I wanted to say is that it's a privilege to see you working, your experience makes everything seem simple and fast,... besides I love everything you do, and how you do it,...
@@paulotarsocampinho7637 Thank you.
these videos are the best thing on the internet, thank you for making them
Awsome work sir, can't wait to see bowls being finished.....
This is a first seeing how you work on the rear side to carve out the second bowl blank. Love the use of the ‘break-in’ tool to separate them. Very interesting and informative. Greetings from Tasmania Australia.😁👍
Richard has used the same tool in another video, I forget which though. Hello fellow Tasmanian, I'm based in Gawler (just outside Ulverstone).
In a few days I'll upload the larger bowls being completed and the smaller a few days after that.
@@DiemenDesign Simple coring ua-cam.com/video/P2XQ8TSYNMw/v-deo.html
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning haha, I knew you had, I knew my memory wasn't that bad, just need to convince my kids and she who must be obeyed of that. Appreciate you sharing your knowledge. If you're ever in Tasmania, would love to meet up, maybe even do a collab project.
@@DiemenDesign -Down south in Cambridge. Wood turning is a new project for me, I have always been too busy building observatories and telescopes, working in my metal workshops, playing wind instruments in various cocert bands over the years and a lot more stuff. Finally, in my early 80's I set a few other things aside and started making decorative objects from the timbers on our bush 5-acres. Watching Richard with his projects is really inspirational, and his video technique, lack of music, continuous narration and telling us what he had for breafst three weeks ago, gets and holds my attention-if you get my drift. Well known in astronomy and perhaps forensic pathology many years ago, across the island, but 50 odd years a media source in most things astronomical from my "Southern Cross Observatory-Tasmania 42 South".
Really interesting video with an artisan showing his expertise. Thank you for sharing 🌞
I am learning so much watching you explain things. Very educational, thanks. Merry Christmas.
What bandsaw do you use ? I need one for processing logs in America
My bandsaw is a Laguna. I've no idea what other brands are available in America. If you're thinking of larger logs there are horizontal band mills. Again I wouldn't know what's available but there are probably adverts in Fine Woodworking and other woodworking magazines.
Bom canal boas dicas parabéns.Moji Guaçu S.P Brasil.
Obrigada
Richard - how much life do you think your 1/2" spindle gouge has let in it ?
It's probably good for at least another 200 bowls or several hundred scoops... depends partly on the timbers being turned.
I just stepped away and watched your other video on using the slicer. Very unique system skillfully used in your hands. Sharing your experience is such a blessing compared to so many other UA-camrs. I’ve gone through a couple of your books but seeing you in action really helps gain perspective.
Video has been a wonderful complement to the written work and drawings, especially for sound which tells us so much as cutting proceeds.
Hi Richard, which cancel do you have there? Is it in Axminster?
Which what?
I continue to be amazed at your turning. The finished bowls are amazing.
I think I have a new tool to make! That coring system looks awesome and I think I can make something like it. Thanks for the demo, I didn't realize you can core without some fancy system. You really make turning fun!
This is what I use to do before the fancy bowl corers came along in the late 1980s.
Very nice result. The coring resulted in two smaller bowls, excellent. You make it look so simple. Must be nice turning that wet wood. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
I find wood most enjoyable to turn when it's been felled 3-4 months when it's beginning to dry and I don't get soaking wet as it fling out moisture. And after that when it's really old. I've turned oak and elm several hundred years old out of old barns and chuches and it's almost a different material to modern seasoned timber.
Wondering again why you use a spindle gouge for roughing out when a bowl gouge is designed for that particular purpose.
Very nice. Brings back memories, bought a Stewart system sometime in the 1980's. Still have it. Switched to kelton McNaughton system for coring after it came out.
Thanks for these videos, I learn from them and really enjoy them.
Very instructive ... thank you so much for these videos!
Absolutely marvelous! I really enjoy Box Elder, especially burl and feather figure. We lack the flame here in New Mexico but I enjoy it regardless.
Mr. Raffan, would you please consider a video of your bowl drying process? I follow Mike Mahoney’s school of thought but that means my rough bowls get slathered pva-like glue and dry for 6 months or more. How does your process work?
Many thanks for the suggestion, Scott. I'll add that to my list. I don't bother with sealing endgrain on bowls. For a few days the bowls are left in a loose pile out of the sun. I check daily to see if any start splitting. Those that do go straight back on the lathe to be completed green, and thereafter they tend to warp rather than split. After a week or so the roughed bowls get stacked away for at least a year and often way longer. Like decades. I still occasionally come across bowls dated in the 1980s and '90s although I sold most when I downsized.
Where can one get one of those step jaws for a Chuck?
I learn so much by watching you and listening to your reasoning as you proceed. Thanks for sharing. It means a lot to a novice turner to have a seasoned veteran like you. Question: I know boxelder is soft and therefore dries relatively fast but “3 or 4 days” (which ended up being a couple weeks) seems too fast for them to be ready for finish turning. How do you dry your green pieces so quickly without incurring excessive splits or warping?
Initially my intention was to complete the bowls whilst there was still enough moisture in the wood that the bowls would distort slightly once finished. Unfortunately they warped before I could re-turn them. I was surprised at how dry the shavings were but occasionally roughed bowls are ready for completion in a few weeks. Much of the initial warping in a bowl is due to releasing tension in the timber when the centre is removed. For my Wavy (distorted) Bowls I look for timbers like casuarinas or oaks known to warp and they are microwaved to speed the drying. For bowls that are to stay round, I choose timbers known for their stability. To limit splitting it helps to have timber of even density and even thickness. The position of the pith affects how a form will distort. You can see how in the gallery on www.richardraffan.com.au and read about it my books, particularly Turning Bowls. www.richardraffan.com.au/books-and-dvds/
When you are roughing your bowls, you put a couple of grooves on the inside. Can you explain the purpose of these. Do they help control warping or reduce the chance of cracking? Great education watching you work.
The internal shoulders are to locate the chuck jaws when I remount the bowl for completion. For even drying it helps to have an even wall thickness and not too much extra in the base.
Hi Richard. I'm in the UK and looked at Sorby's website after watching your original Simple Coring recording but from memory, I don't think they make these coring bars anymore, which seems a pity. Is that your understanding Richard?
Try 'Sorby slicer' or 'Robert Sorby #RS207 RS2000 Arm Brace & Slicer' on Amazon. Woodturning suppliers in Australia carry them.
Is it possible to purchase a piece of your work? I’d be happy with pretty much anything.
I'll be delighted to sell you a bowl or box or whatever. Can you message your email or email me via www.richardraffan.com.au/contact/
Hi Richard,
Could you tell me what the advantages of the "harpoon-style" handle you have on the slicer are over a long self-made turned handle? Also perhaps if side handles or braces provide much?
I am learning a ton from your books and these videos especially. Thank you so much!
I don't understand the physics, but the pistol grip is easier to control than a straight handle. The original Stewart System had an arm brace as well as the pistol grip but I don't need that nesting bowls less than a foot diameter. When on workshop tours I travelled with a 2-ft. long straight handle (pistol grips guaranted a baggage search) and was always glad to get back to the pistol grip or armbrace.
That is very helpful to know. Thank you for the reply!
Nice video. Why do you put the 2 rings inside the bowl before you take it off the lathe?
The internal shoulders are to locate the chuck jaws when I remount the bowl for completion. You see this in ua-cam.com/video/LSZfSNHds64/v-deo.html. For even drying it helps to have an even wall thickness and not too much extra in the base. .
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thank you. You are a genius.
Hi Richard, interesting new tool, and how you used it from the headstock end.
I understand the decent sized screw chuck is pretty safe, but I guess I’d still use tailstock support.
It's not so much the size and length of the screw as the width of the faceplate that ensures a strong grip. I bring up the tailcentre when the blank isn't flat. If the blank does come loose on the screw you're left with the blank on the slicer. Roughed bowls flying off tend to jump to the floor but not go far.
What is the purpose of the two concentric notches with the flat faced scraper on the inside of the bowls? Does it help with drying/cracking?
Those are for expanding the chuck jaws into when working the second turning.
@@jeffriechel Interesting... not a bad idea. Not sure why I've never seen that before.
The internal shoulders are to locate the chuck jaws when I remount the bowl for completion. Nothing to do with the drying. For even drying it helps to have an even wall thickness and not too much extra in the base.
@@jeffriechel Thank you.You put that better than I did.
@@jfinch84 Maybe not read the right books.... www.richardraffan.com.au/books-and-dvds/
What is the purpose of the rings that you cut into the hollow side of the bowl at the end? Does that help it dry more evenly?
The internal shoulders are to locate the chuck jaws when I remount the bowl for completion. For even drying it helps to have an even wall thickness and not too much extra in the base.
Sorry, I read more comments , and that topic was answered by Big R. 🙃
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thanks for the info! Looking forward to the rest of the trilogy.
I think of box elder as a midwestern US tree - - does it grow in Australia as well?
Correct. It is considered a weed tree (invasive) in Australia and is prohibited in some sections. Introduced c. 1959.
@@joescarborough1 I wonder if Californians sent it over as revenge for the eucalypts!
It was often planted in Canberra gardens a few decades ago..
@@joescarborough1 its considered a weed here also. Not suitable for lumber and produces very low BTU's when burned.
@@RogerBehnke You are correct.
Thanks!
Many thanks for the contribution.
I watched from start to finish. Nice.
Richard, does that technique of yours using the left wing to 'knock off the corners' work just as efficiently with hard woods? I'm just about to embark on a 400mm lidded bowl from Fitzroy Falls Blackwood. I'm 25% of the way through the bowl and I might give the technique on the lid.
Chris