I worked on a TRV where the pin had jammed down. So I gently pulled it with some pliers and it promptly popped right out! (obviously it's not meant to do that). Fortunately I was able to reinsert the pin and hold it in place with the TRV. Almost a brown trouser moment.
Those Aladin auto venting air valves will fail to work on an old system the second time you need it. Fitted new the vent (pin) hole in the back of the value will be open. As soon as the radiator fills and there is any sludge in the radiator the small hole will block up with sludge. The next time that you drain the system the blockage will remain and the valve will not work. There is also a secondary problem with the way they work in that there is a membrane that gets wet and swells. When dry this membrane lets the air out and when the water reaches the top of the radiator and the membrane gets wet it swells to stop the water exiting. When you drain the radiator the membrane is still wet and if you fill the system again, say, a few hours later it is still wet so no air is released. Heating the radiator would dry it out but full of air the radiator remains cold. The valves are an expensive snake oil product! First impressions when newly fitted, a great product, BUT you don't find out about their problems or limitations until you need further work on a system.
Hi plumber parts. I've got a problem . I've been renovating the bathroom but I can't seem to turn off the hot water as I can't find the turn off valve . The cold water in the bathroom is turned off .I've looked high and low but can't find the hot water valve to turn off and it's holding me back from tiling the shower room and putting in the vanity unit in the bathroom. Is there a video that shows different scenarios concerning turning off hot water supply. Been like this for a couple of months . Been taking a bath in one of those buckets you mix plaster in ect . Would appreciate your advice and knowledge. Love your vids full of info and entertaining. Good banter . Better than watching TV. I think that every house across the UK should have a easy to find manual concerning plumbing . Gas . Electrical points . That would help the house owner but especially the tradesmen.
Got a TRV that lets in heat when I have it switched off (I dont like to sleep in hot room) So I want to just look at it, do I just unscrew collar, remove head, bounce the pin up ans down gently as shown and spray a little bit of WD40? I open it to 5 before hand dont it? And have the boiler turned off? (its a combi) before re-installing the same TRV head? Advice please, I'm not draining, or bleeding or gonna get wet or anything I am???? And the boiler goes off at the mains during this?
Question, I have a radiator that was cold. I took the trv head off. I gave the pin a bang before 😂 before I did it before i watched this video. Back to my question, the radiator is now working, but the pipe to the trv is warm. The lockshield side is very hot. What do you think could be the cause of that?
*Learn more about Tado:* www.tado.com/gb-en/tado-for-professionals?Video&Social&Awareness&PlumberParts%E2%80%99%20integration: 🚨 *_Livestreams|Behind the Scenes|Exclusive content_* plumberparts.locals.com/support/promo/PLUMB1M 🛠 *_AMAZON TOOL STORE:_* www.amazon.co.uk/shop/plumberparts 🥾 *_10% Off my workboots + workwear Use Plumberparts10:_* elwoodworkwear.co.uk/?ref=Plumberparts10 👓 *_10% Off Safestyle Sunglasses Use PLUMBER10:_* safestyle.com.au/?ref=PLUMBER10
I perfectly balanced all the rads and use the tado system. However, when the boiler starts to modulate as it reaches the set temp the rads start making a “motor” running noise. I’m told, turn the pump down but it’s a variable pump. The only solution is to undo the lockshield fully which then unbalanced the system So far, I’ve found no other solution.
Hi guys, I have an issue with only one rad in my system. When the CH is on this rad wants to remain cold, however I can feel that the lockshield side gets hot aswell as the pipe, but the TRV side remains cold and will only ever get lukeworm. When I remove the TRV from the rad and open the TRV, there is water gushing out. Does anyone have an idea of what may be going on?
Question: Why do they say only bleed the radiators when the heating is switched off? I very often bleed mine when they are fully working and it doesn't seem to make any difference other than the water that dribbles out is a little warmer.
A system thats off, lets the bubbles collect, a system thats pumping, is pushing around microbubbles. Best is the have a T in the highest point of the system, and let it to to the attic or whatever and install a vent there. All air collects easily there. Bit of extra work, but i always do it, given the chance.
James unusual for me to disagree with you !many years ago I pulled the pin as you have shown …and it disengaged with the mechanism in the valve and would not reconnect. Since that day I have hit the side of the valve until the pin jumps up then with the water pressure pushing the pin up I have repeatedly pushed the pin down until it is travelling free Our experiences shape how we rectify faults
I worked on a TRV where the pin had jammed down. So I gently pulled it with some pliers and it promptly popped right out! (obviously it's not meant to do that). Fortunately I was able to reinsert the pin and hold it in place with the TRV. Almost a brown trouser moment.
Me too!
Brilliant worked a treat! Thankyou 👍🏻
Those Aladin auto venting air valves will fail to work on an old system the second time you need it. Fitted new the vent (pin) hole in the back of the value will be open. As soon as the radiator fills and there is any sludge in the radiator the small hole will block up with sludge. The next time that you drain the system the blockage will remain and the valve will not work. There is also a secondary problem with the way they work in that there is a membrane that gets wet and swells. When dry this membrane lets the air out and when the water reaches the top of the radiator and the membrane gets wet it swells to stop the water exiting. When you drain the radiator the membrane is still wet and if you fill the system again, say, a few hours later it is still wet so no air is released. Heating the radiator would dry it out but full of air the radiator remains cold. The valves are an expensive snake oil product! First impressions when newly fitted, a great product, BUT you don't find out about their problems or limitations until you need further work on a system.
Surely if the heat from a router can shut the trv, then won’t the heat from the radiator itself do the same?
TRUE!
Exactly! Well, what do you expect from a "professional" plumber? 😁
You are a funny man with great knowledge 👍
Hi plumber parts. I've got a problem . I've been renovating the bathroom but I can't seem to turn off the hot water as I can't find the turn off valve . The cold water in the bathroom is turned off .I've looked high and low but can't find the hot water valve to turn off and it's holding me back from tiling the shower room and putting in the vanity unit in the bathroom. Is there a video that shows different scenarios concerning turning off hot water supply. Been like this for a couple of months . Been taking a bath in one of those buckets you mix plaster in ect . Would appreciate your advice and knowledge. Love your vids full of info and entertaining. Good banter . Better than watching TV. I think that every house across the UK should have a easy to find manual concerning plumbing . Gas . Electrical points . That would help the house owner but especially the tradesmen.
Quality content as always buddy 👊😎👍
Cheers mate!
In summer are you meant to close the trv to min and open up towards autumn? Or the opposite?
I was told by a Worcester engineer that a room thermostat replaces the TRV as the thermostat senses the room temperature & shuts down the boiler.
Got a TRV that lets in heat when I have it switched off (I dont like to sleep in hot room) So I want to just look at it, do I just unscrew collar, remove head, bounce the pin up ans down gently as shown and spray a little bit of WD40? I open it to 5 before hand dont it?
And have the boiler turned off? (its a combi) before re-installing the same TRV head?
Advice please, I'm not draining, or bleeding or gonna get wet or anything I am????
And the boiler goes off at the mains during this?
Question, I have a radiator that was cold. I took the trv head off. I gave the pin a bang before 😂 before I did it before i watched this video.
Back to my question, the radiator is now working, but the pipe to the trv is warm. The lockshield side is very hot.
What do you think could be the cause of that?
Feed is on the wrong side. Might not be an issue at all tbh, depending on where the pipes are etc.
Thank you
James, why did you take the self balancing rad valves of.
Don't you set the flow on the valve under the TRV itself and not on the inlet of the radiator???
*Learn more about Tado:* www.tado.com/gb-en/tado-for-professionals?Video&Social&Awareness&PlumberParts%E2%80%99%20integration:
🚨 *_Livestreams|Behind the Scenes|Exclusive content_* plumberparts.locals.com/support/promo/PLUMB1M
🛠 *_AMAZON TOOL STORE:_* www.amazon.co.uk/shop/plumberparts
🥾 *_10% Off my workboots + workwear Use Plumberparts10:_* elwoodworkwear.co.uk/?ref=Plumberparts10
👓 *_10% Off Safestyle Sunglasses Use PLUMBER10:_* safestyle.com.au/?ref=PLUMBER10
I perfectly balanced all the rads and use the tado system. However, when the boiler starts to modulate as it reaches the set temp the rads start making a “motor” running noise.
I’m told, turn the pump down but it’s a variable pump.
The only solution is to undo the lockshield fully which then unbalanced the system
So far, I’ve found no other solution.
Hi guys, I have an issue with only one rad in my system. When the CH is on this rad wants to remain cold, however I can feel that the lockshield side gets hot aswell as the pipe, but the TRV side remains cold and will only ever get lukeworm. When I remove the TRV from the rad and open the TRV, there is water gushing out. Does anyone have an idea of what may be going on?
You’re class
Question: Why do they say only bleed the radiators when the heating is switched off? I very often bleed mine when they are fully working and it doesn't seem to make any difference other than the water that dribbles out is a little warmer.
A system thats off, lets the bubbles collect, a system thats pumping, is pushing around microbubbles. Best is the have a T in the highest point of the system, and let it to to the attic or whatever and install a vent there. All air collects easily there. Bit of extra work, but i always do it, given the chance.
James unusual for me to disagree with you !many years ago I pulled the pin as you have shown …and it disengaged with the mechanism in the valve and would not reconnect. Since that day I have hit the side of the valve until the pin jumps up then with the water pressure pushing the pin up I have repeatedly pushed the pin down until it is travelling free
Our experiences shape how we rectify faults
Hitting the side is just fine. If you do pull, just a light tug will do!
@@plumberparts A light tug never achieved anything Jimbo, fnar fnar
I am in hospital waiting your vlog
Why do people have a TRV on a radiator when there is a room stat in the same room as the radiator?
You shouldn't have a TRV in the same room as the thermostat or you risk the thermostat never turning the heating off.
Yea. That's what I said but the boss said just open the TRV to the max and shut the fuck up.
Thanks for the reply though
Cricket 😂😂😂