I know this os very old. But a good build, as a designer by trade I saw a few things if anyone makes one to watch out for, for safety. The side switch for power should be a push in/out or have guards to prevent it from being turned on by placing it against something. I had a case the exact same way (for R/C) and every time I went to use it, it was dead from something (someone) bumping it on at the track. Second you ran the power to the fuse box through the volt meter, the fuse box should have been wired direct to batt with fuse. The way you have it, the total amps of the fuse block now goes through the voltmeter and they are generally only made for 10 amps. A momentary short is going to blow the voltmeter before the fuse blows. Other than that, enjoyed the video presentation was better than some I have seen:)
Would recommend an inline fuse between battery positive and the main power switch as close to the battery as possible. Just in case of a short downstream before the fuse holder to protect the main switch and voltmeter.
Best tutorial I've found, am building two for hurricane season here in Eastern, NC. USA. #1 is the ammo box, 2nd is a larger box with two marine batteries ( in parallel) and a 1500w inverter on 100w solar panels to run TV, wi-fi, laptop, etc.... Thanks
Love the build. Not going to lie I would have thrown the box away and restarted the minute the holes weren't perfectly aligned. Yes, it's a flaw of mine but it would drive me nuts anytime I looked at it.
Outstanding video man! Future reference, when drilling holes regardless of size, use some frog tape over the spot(s) you want to drill. It will give you much cleaner holes and I would use bits rather than using hole saw. The bits will dig that mess up and all you gotta do is pick and pull. Takes no time my guy. No scalpel needed lol
Great video, very entertaining and filmed well considering how small and intricate that box is. Really enjoyed watching you plan the steps out before starting to work.
Now this is thee most detailed build video i've ever seen and has helped me figure out how i want to build mine for ham radio portable ops. Thanks for the great video.
Really liked the "live" build of this box. Great stuff. Maybe put a tiny bit more info on the electrical part for us electricity noobs ;-) Sounds like a fun project...I would just add a radio on there and turn it into a ham radio go box!
Nice job. I would put a fuse between the battery and main switch. Also, the positive main should go directly from the main switch to the fuse block. Plug the volt meter anywhere downstream from the fuse block.
Great video. I am also building a powerbox of sorts. I am adding in multiple inputs for charging. Solar and the ac adapter but everything will be closed so no need to open the case to do any charging or work.
Put a piece of scrap wood on the backside of the plastic when drilling or boring to support the plastic against deformation and reduce the amount of cleanup required with the x-acto knife. The screws holding the fuse block should have a finishing washer under the heads to spread the load and keep the top from cracking. I'd recommend a fuse block that has both positive and negative connections so that everything is connected to it without the point to point jumpers back to the battery used here. It makes it easier to wire, easier to troubleshoot, easier to change things, eliminates a lot of wires being flexed when the lid is opened and closed. They are available with LED indicators for blown fuses. USB ports are available that will fast charge an iPad or iPhone, or other devices. Apple and Google Pixel needs PD 3.0 and most other electronics need QC 3.0. There are some that have both QC and PD. You may also want to consider USB-C connectors as they are becoming more common and can deliver more power by increasing their voltage output. With more and more things using USB for charging adding one of the fast charge ports to this setup seems like a good bet.
Great video!! thank you!! ill copy this! i am curious about a couple of things, how will the battery charge? also, any idea how long would this power station would provide power to say a 40watt LED light when camping? Could i switch the battery to something bigger?
May want to at least run an "in line" fuse between main and Voltmeter, and also step drill bits are great for things like this. A little wire loom and maybe some foam and You couldn't buy a better setup! Awesome Job!! Look forward to more of your vids
This is really cool, thanks for sharing! I'm looking to upscale this for a ~40AH battery as I'll be using mine for astrophotography so will need it to run all through a winters night.
Did you make one? I use Minn Kota trolling motor boxes for my home built emergency backup power boxes to run CPAP machines. I put in a 100 amp hour lithium battery in one unit and with its attached 300 watt inverter weighs 22 pounds. I got carried away and stuffed mine with a 200 amp hour lithium battery to run a 1200 watt inverter if needed. That weighs 43 pounds total. With that, you could run your iOptron SkyGuider Pro, a 5 cup coffee maker, cook your midnight stew with the smaller Instapot pressure cooker, and run your trolling motor to get across the lake in the morning. I should make a video of it.
@@kimmer6 Hey Kimmer. Well, my astro rig grew arms and legs so I had to rethink the power solution. Given work and the awful weather we've had, I've not had the opportunity to image remotely so for now, I'm continuing to run on mains electric. Wow, sounds like your got your power situation sorted out!
@@IcedReaver I should start hanging out in the pub. It might be a cheaper endeavor than building lithium battery powered things! Here's that trolling motor box with 200 amp hours, 2560 watt hours, stuffed inside. I built the 7200 watt hour unit underneath it for running my son's fridge and chest freezer when the grid goes down....again. I keep improving it and Version 2 will be much better. In NorCal, Spring weather arrived and I'll head out tonight and look for satellites. ua-cam.com/video/Z1raS3WEe1g/v-deo.html
@@kimmer6 I just checked out your video, and you weren't kidding when you said you had a slow cooker on the go! I'll put in an order of beef brisket please :) I'm sure you'll see plenty of satellites when the sky is clear, they certainly find their way into my images that's for sure.
@@IcedReaver Remember the Iridium satellites? I tracked and viewed about 200 of them. They would catch sunlight at night for a few seconds and flare brightly. My tracker app was quite accurate. I was at the local fishing pier one night pointing out where to look to my friend who never saw a flare. Some crackhead asked what I was pointing out. I showed him the app and the map on my cell phone and couldn't help myself in telling a fib. I told him that I worked for Lockheed Martin and that I was going to turn on the back porch light on our satellite. There were about 6 of his friends and I pointed out where to look. I did the countdown and tapped my phone. They thought that was the most awesome thing...touch my phone make that thing in space light up. ''Do it again, do it again!!!''. ''Woops, can't do it yet. I have to let the batteries recharge.'' I miss those Iridium Sats.... Corned beef and cabbage coming up Thursday for St Paddy's Day. Come on over.
Anderson plug's needed and maybe LED bar instead of Volt meter. Also power switch on top - not to get knock when packed. Volt meter would be handy if you can externally access it, like a basic multimeter. The lights are a great idea. you can also buy resettable blade fuses.
Built one of these, or at least similar idea. Mine was a larger box with fuse block, ground bar, dual usb, powerpole 15amp, powerpole 30amp, master switch to power fuse block, and then side mount powerpoles for charger connection on the outside of the box. I then also installed a mobile dual band 2m and 70cm transceiver. Im sure I overkilled it, but I ran 10 awg wire from battery through switch and then fuse block, and then all the other wiring was 12 awg. Fun project
Can you elaborate on this transceiver thing? I would love to see a video of what you are talking about. I have most of the parts needed, just trying to finalize my plan. I want to be able to power a garmin echomap and a livescope with the black box, and my submersible green LED light for night fishing via cigarette plug. I have an 18ah lithium battery. I hope thats enough.
@@anonymous_friend ....it is a HAM Radio. Both receives and transmits at 50w for 2m and 70cm bands. Carry a roll up J-pole antenna for the radio. Easily communicates simplex or duplex for coverage in the Tulsa area. Radio distance has a lot of variables, but I can consistently get 40-50 miles. Ive since built 2 more of these using an Apache case from Harbor Freight.....generic version of a pelican case. Fun to build and very useful
I also have plans to build one of these also, but I'm going to add two super capacitor banks and a 12v DC motor with hand crank. Plus, mine will also be EMP proof.
Great build. I was hoping you would open and close the box... If you did, I may have missed it. Either way, a suggestion, It appears the wires would bend at the hinge area. While you are not opening and closing often, it would be an area of future failure. If you run the wires from the lid down to one side to the hinge, cross over at the hinge and then into the box. That way the wires would twist over the length of the hinge rather than bend at it. Hopefully this makes sense. Again, great project.
Very nice build. I will be making a similar one shortly and you gave me some good ideas. Greetings from sunny Jamaica. Update: I built mine in the same ammo can but with less components. Only 2 lights and no fuse block, just an inline fuse from the battery. I used a 7.4ah sealed lead acid battery (UPS type) since i got some free used ones that were still pretty good. I charge it with a 100 watt panel and sometimes a 10 watt panel.
@@SuperVstech I used exclusively solder on one of those DIY spot welder kits. The device runs hundreds of amps and is literally designed to melt metal. Adding solder to the circuit board traces doubled the power and allows me to weld 0.3mm pure nickel with a device roughly the size of a credit card. Even commercial quality spot welders can't do that. If your electronics are running at >350F, time to find a new hobby.
@@NPLife BUT.....the components you have used are not waterproof. No point sealing the holes in the box if water can go through the actual components. I would doubt how waterproof the box was before you drilled through the top and sides. As you say... not a good idea tbh. However, a nice build.
@@simonhamilton500 Thanks for the comment! It's more for incidental splashes and things while on a boat or in an ice house. No part of me thinks it's waterproof.
You did a really good job. the only thing missing is you charging up that battery again you could get the charging system out of an old UPS Computer backup system so you can charge with 110V plug so you can charge the battery back up.
Stumbled across this, never though of this battery box idea. Not sure how to recharge, great follow up comment about using an old UPS. Got a couple lying around, going to trying that! Thanks for the video.
Run piggybacks to a waterproof SAE connector. That amped lifepo4 charger is easy to splice over to SAE. External charging without having to open the box, and you can wire in a solar charge controller inline for a solar generator.
Hello fellas, is there a way that i can have everything connect to something, and then that something connects to the botttom, im looking to hide the wires, is there a type of junction or something
Stupid question: When you charge the battery, are you attaching the charger directly to the battery terminals or are you using one set of banana terminals to accomplish that task?
My life was a power outage that lasted nine years and three months. Alone, off-grid in a cabin high-up in a forest. A quiet, peaceful life but sometimes with severe hardship. These power boxes were what I had been looking for. They are truly a life saver. Maybe it’s time to “pay it forward”. I should document my refrigerator, and freezer. Hopefully I can make someone else’s life easier.
Just ordered all the parts for this. Any way you could post some kind of wiring diagram? Your explanation is a little hard to follow and I am not too savy when it comes to wiring. Thx.
I'm new to this stuff and I was wondering: why 2 sets of the banana posts and can you run some wires from those banana posts to a solar charge controller and charge the battery up via solar? Thanks. Awesome build.👌🏼
He has several things he wants to charge, and the battery has a built-in BMS so as long as your solar setup provides about 14.6v through a proper LIon charger, and you use proper guage wires you can charge the battery however you want. Have fun 😊
Good Job. I build them myself for people. I set mine up so they can be charged by AC plug, Solar Panel or a Car Cigarette Lighter Plug. You might want to give the charging some thought. However you've done good,
Thank you but darn it, you're making me think about adding LED lights. My box bangs around in the back, but I might be able to put the lights in between some ridges in the case... My box version is not as nice as yours, it's meant to be a straight 12v, light and portable power supply for a high volume (truck tire) air compressor and light duty trolling motor (I only run it for short runs when my hands are busy with fly line) and my fish finder/gps so I just have brass pass through (remote jumper posts) automotive terminals mounted near the handle of a waterproof Pelican clone (waterproof case with a one way vent) with foam that came with it to prevent rattling. I used 5/16" posts but if I did it again I'd use standard 3/8" posts. For waterproofing I sacrificed an old inner tube to make rubber washers. Put them on the outside, under the terminal body (not inside) and your case is waterproof again. The posts come with a screw on piece that locks ring terminals in place and protects the posts. Since I used rubber washers, it floats, and I don't have to worry about salt water corrosion on my wiring, although I like the LED lights idea >:( I used to help with minor modifications and installations on friends boats so I like to keep wiring simple and accessible because I've spent way too much time upside down tracing wiring. If I were to run a heavy duty setup and didn't care about weight I'd probably use automotive side battery terminals and screw in some Better Battery posts so I could run standard car connections for charging and whatnot. I run short 8ga wires with a 30a fuse inside, and my large tire air compressor has a 10a fuse that I tend to blow when I abuse it and let it get too hot 🔥. So I don't run down my car battery, my box works great as a portable 12v source for inflatable kayak, SUP, and car camping air mattresses ... oh, I almost forgot about my human wash down pump (self priming ShurFlo with a pressure switch) for when I get out of the water (it draws from a 5 gallon bucket) and I really should use it to wash my car (not allowed to wash my car where I live).
Should do a night test for that light... I'm curious to see how bright it is... also how long could you run 2 lights, both USB outlets and the cigarette lighter on a single charge? Thanks
Great video!,… very clean design. Will be very helpful when I build my own,… just wondering, how many ways can you recharge the battery,… Will you post a video for this. Thanks
The only change I would make is to the master switch. I would not have it wired in a way that it always connects a load to the battery. The voltmeter (load) is always on and even though it's a small load, it is still draining the battery. One possibility would be to have an on/off switch for the voltmeter. Do you really need a constant display of voltage? It only takes one forgetful moment to completely discharge your battery.
Hey! Thanks for watching and the comment! The way it's wired only sends load to the voltmeter when the master switch is on. The master is the cut off between the battery and any components. Sorry if I didn't show that well.
I notice a number of questions about recharging. I have a similar set up device and as well as connecting a conventional mains powered charger to the banana plugs I have made up a lead to connect to my vehicle car cigarette socket and thus recharge as I am driving to and fro.
Neat works! My only concern is on the lithium capacity. What can you do with 18Ah powerbox? I am thinking of building one with 50Ah, softpack, plus an inverter module, car lighter socket, car usb charger, variable voltage booster 12-30v (to power up various laptop), and 12v battery charger rammed into the box
My powerboxes are mainly for running lights in my ice fishing house and charging cameras/drones while I'm off grid hunting or fishing. I have this smaller 18 and a bigger 30 that pretty much cover all of my bases.
I'd rather ask than be surprised, what chargers are you using on these when done? Just a basic auto battery charger and or trickle charger for a standard boat?
I use a dedicated lithium battery charger. This is what I have. ampedoutdoors.com/collections/lifepo4-battery/products/lifepo4-lithium-battery-4-charger
hole saw would have been the best choice for drilling. I like that build want to do the same for my trolling motor battery so I can charge phone or what every when I'm fishing.
*Great **Generater.Systems** so far. We have the same brand just a little less power. This one is so much quieter then our first one. Great buy*
I know this os very old. But a good build, as a designer by trade I saw a few things if anyone makes one to watch out for, for safety. The side switch for power should be a push in/out or have guards to prevent it from being turned on by placing it against something. I had a case the exact same way (for R/C) and every time I went to use it, it was dead from something (someone) bumping it on at the track. Second you ran the power to the fuse box through the volt meter, the fuse box should have been wired direct to batt with fuse. The way you have it, the total amps of the fuse block now goes through the voltmeter and they are generally only made for 10 amps. A momentary short is going to blow the voltmeter before the fuse blows. Other than that, enjoyed the video presentation was better than some I have seen:)
Great idea! You may want to consider using a step drill for the holes as they tend to cut cleaner in this situation.
Yes. Can Confirm. Do This ^^^^^^^^^
Fantastic video! Continuity test with multimeter between components is while wiring is always a great sanity check
Awesome build. Appreciate the shout out as well. This is why I put out the video in the first place.
Thanks man!
Would recommend an inline fuse between battery positive and the main power switch as close to the battery as possible. Just in case of a short downstream before the fuse holder to protect the main switch and voltmeter.
Great vid... I like the light idea! Nice clean audio with no annoying back ground music!
…but please in future videos get rid of the guitar music also.
Excellent video...many, many thanks! I love the OCD factor when you noticed the
imperfections :)
Best tutorial I've found, am building two for hurricane season here in Eastern, NC. USA. #1 is the ammo box, 2nd is a larger box with two marine batteries ( in parallel) and a 1500w inverter on 100w solar panels to run TV, wi-fi, laptop, etc.... Thanks
Have you started your tandem marine battery solar build yet?
Love the build. Not going to lie I would have thrown the box away and restarted the minute the holes weren't perfectly aligned. Yes, it's a flaw of mine but it would drive me nuts anytime I looked at it.
Never go Full Corn Pop
Ammo cans! It’s like Tupperware, but for men!
Just a terrific video. Thank you! I am looking forward to starting my project.
Looks nice but how you going to charge it up
My question too
I would guess in the car with cigarette lighter to cigarette lighter adapter. Its 12 volts just like the car.
Probably via one set of the banana posts
Regular car style battery charger. Pop the top, hook the clips and youre done
@@wr3ncher if im not mistaken, the charger voltage must higher than the battery, should be around >14v
Do you have a way of charging the battery while its in the box?
I've found that step drill bits are awesome for drilling in plastic boxes.
Outstanding video man! Future reference, when drilling holes regardless of size, use some frog tape over the spot(s) you want to drill. It will give you much cleaner holes and I would use bits rather than using hole saw. The bits will dig that mess up and all you gotta do is pick and pull. Takes no time my guy. No scalpel needed lol
Thanks man, I never thought of that!
Or grab a rat tail deburr tool from harbor freight, super cheap. It's take off any excess flash that the whole saw or otherwise leaves behind
Step bits are the way to go for stuff like that, for sure
Great tutorial! Thanks for including so much detail in how you built this out.
Great video, very entertaining and filmed well considering how small and intricate that box is. Really enjoyed watching you plan the steps out before starting to work.
That’s awesome. Great video. I have my switches installed but never finished.
the best compact power box i ever seen and clean work too i will make the same but a big box to add a solar charging
thanx for the steps of the diy
Now this is thee most detailed build video i've ever seen and has helped me figure out how i want to build mine for ham radio portable ops. Thanks for the great video.
Yup, that is why I am here. Getting my setup ready to go outdoors.
Thanks guy! I'm glad I coukd help a bit.
Really liked the "live" build of this box. Great stuff. Maybe put a tiny bit more info on the electrical part for us electricity noobs ;-) Sounds like a fun project...I would just add a radio on there and turn it into a ham radio go box!
Nice job. I would put a fuse between the battery and main switch. Also, the positive main should go directly from the main switch to the fuse block. Plug the volt meter anywhere downstream from the fuse block.
how many amps of fuse do you recommend?
great detailed information on how to get this done. Now i can actually get the parts and do it myself, Thanks!!!
Is there a charging port for the battery? I didn't hear you saying anything about the charging process... Great device!
could use a few push button reset-able breakers .. beats searching for fuses in the woods in the dark?
Your battery is actually in the front of the ammo can...cool build.
Very nice build. I love putting together power boxes too
Great video. I am also building a powerbox of sorts. I am adding in multiple inputs for charging. Solar and the ac adapter but everything will be closed so no need to open the case to do any charging or work.
Put a piece of scrap wood on the backside of the plastic when drilling or boring to support the plastic against deformation and reduce the amount of cleanup required with the x-acto knife.
The screws holding the fuse block should have a finishing washer under the heads to spread the load and keep the top from cracking.
I'd recommend a fuse block that has both positive and negative connections so that everything is connected to it without the point to point jumpers back to the battery used here. It makes it easier to wire, easier to troubleshoot, easier to change things, eliminates a lot of wires being flexed when the lid is opened and closed. They are available with LED indicators for blown fuses.
USB ports are available that will fast charge an iPad or iPhone, or other devices. Apple and Google Pixel needs PD 3.0 and most other electronics need QC 3.0. There are some that have both QC and PD. You may also want to consider USB-C connectors as they are becoming more common and can deliver more power by increasing their voltage output. With more and more things using USB for charging adding one of the fast charge ports to this setup seems like a good bet.
Great video!! thank you!! ill copy this! i am curious about a couple of things, how will the battery charge? also, any idea how long would this power station would provide power to say a 40watt LED light when camping? Could i switch the battery to something bigger?
May want to at least run an "in line" fuse between main and Voltmeter, and also step drill bits are great for things like this. A little wire loom and maybe some foam and You couldn't buy a better setup! Awesome Job!! Look forward to more of your vids
This is really cool, thanks for sharing! I'm looking to upscale this for a ~40AH battery as I'll be using mine for astrophotography so will need it to run all through a winters night.
Did you make one? I use Minn Kota trolling motor boxes for my home built emergency backup power boxes to run CPAP machines. I put in a 100 amp hour lithium battery in one unit and with its attached 300 watt inverter weighs 22 pounds. I got carried away and stuffed mine with a 200 amp hour lithium battery to run a 1200 watt inverter if needed. That weighs 43 pounds total. With that, you could run your iOptron SkyGuider Pro, a 5 cup coffee maker, cook your midnight stew with the smaller Instapot pressure cooker, and run your trolling motor to get across the lake in the morning. I should make a video of it.
@@kimmer6 Hey Kimmer. Well, my astro rig grew arms and legs so I had to rethink the power solution. Given work and the awful weather we've had, I've not had the opportunity to image remotely so for now, I'm continuing to run on mains electric. Wow, sounds like your got your power situation sorted out!
@@IcedReaver I should start hanging out in the pub. It might be a cheaper endeavor than building lithium battery powered things! Here's that trolling motor box with 200 amp hours, 2560 watt hours, stuffed inside. I built the 7200 watt hour unit underneath it for running my son's fridge and chest freezer when the grid goes down....again. I keep improving it and Version 2 will be much better. In NorCal, Spring weather arrived and I'll head out tonight and look for satellites. ua-cam.com/video/Z1raS3WEe1g/v-deo.html
@@kimmer6 I just checked out your video, and you weren't kidding when you said you had a slow cooker on the go! I'll put in an order of beef brisket please :) I'm sure you'll see plenty of satellites when the sky is clear, they certainly find their way into my images that's for sure.
@@IcedReaver
Remember the Iridium satellites? I tracked and viewed about 200 of them. They would catch sunlight at night for a few seconds and flare brightly. My tracker app was quite accurate. I was at the local fishing pier one night pointing out where to look to my friend who never saw a flare. Some crackhead asked what I was pointing out. I showed him the app and the map on my cell phone and couldn't help myself in telling a fib. I told him that I worked for Lockheed Martin and that I was going to turn on the back porch light on our satellite. There were about 6 of his friends and I pointed out where to look. I did the countdown and tapped my phone. They thought that was the most awesome thing...touch my phone make that thing in space light up. ''Do it again, do it again!!!''. ''Woops, can't do it yet. I have to let the batteries recharge.'' I miss those Iridium Sats.... Corned beef and cabbage coming up Thursday for St Paddy's Day. Come on over.
Anderson plug's needed and maybe LED bar instead of Volt meter.
Also power switch on top - not to get knock when packed.
Volt meter would be handy if you can externally access it, like a basic multimeter.
The lights are a great idea. you can also buy resettable blade fuses.
Silly question maybe: how do you wire banana jacks to power supply for devices (I.e fish finder)?
Built one of these, or at least similar idea. Mine was a larger box with fuse block, ground bar, dual usb, powerpole 15amp, powerpole 30amp, master switch to power fuse block, and then side mount powerpoles for charger connection on the outside of the box. I then also installed a mobile dual band 2m and 70cm transceiver. Im sure I overkilled it, but I ran 10 awg wire from battery through switch and then fuse block, and then all the other wiring was 12 awg. Fun project
Can you elaborate on this transceiver thing? I would love to see a video of what you are talking about. I have most of the parts needed, just trying to finalize my plan. I want to be able to power a garmin echomap and a livescope with the black box, and my submersible green LED light for night fishing via cigarette plug. I have an 18ah lithium battery. I hope thats enough.
@@anonymous_friend ....it is a HAM Radio. Both receives and transmits at 50w for 2m and 70cm bands. Carry a roll up J-pole antenna for the radio. Easily communicates simplex or duplex for coverage in the Tulsa area. Radio distance has a lot of variables, but I can consistently get 40-50 miles. Ive since built 2 more of these using an Apache case from Harbor Freight.....generic version of a pelican case. Fun to build and very useful
I've been trying to find those style lights but in a Infrared Spectrum for running night vision cameras.
Did i miss something? How do you charge it?
Regular battery charger. I built the exact box jds outdoors did with the same solar charge option.
@@chrispierce2942 I didn’t see where you could charge it either
You just ooen the top, take the alligator clips and attach them to the battery terminals directly. If you want solar, that's an additional build
I noticed that too. With the mess of wires, opening and closing it to charge will likely create a problem at some point with the wires.
through the positive and negative terminals.
I also have plans to build one of these also, but I'm going to add two super capacitor banks and a 12v DC motor with hand crank. Plus, mine will also be EMP proof.
Great build. I was hoping you would open and close the box... If you did, I may have missed it. Either way, a suggestion, It appears the wires would bend at the hinge area. While you are not opening and closing often, it would be an area of future failure. If you run the wires from the lid down to one side to the hinge, cross over at the hinge and then into the box. That way the wires would twist over the length of the hinge rather than bend at it. Hopefully this makes sense. Again, great project.
Consider adding a XLR plug to charge the battery easily.
question: why didn't you use one set of banana post so you could hook up to them and trickle charge the battery?
using a step drill will clean up the holes real nice
Pretty cool package indeed !
Thank you, what was the cost for this project?
Very nice build. I will be making a similar one shortly and you gave me some good ideas. Greetings from sunny Jamaica.
Update: I built mine in the same ammo can but with less components. Only 2 lights and no fuse block, just an inline fuse from the battery. I used a 7.4ah sealed lead acid battery (UPS type) since i got some free used ones that were still pretty good. I charge it with a 100 watt panel and sometimes a 10 watt panel.
Thanks again for the great video and taking time to help me out with my build!
Any time man! be sure to send some pics when you're done.
Awesome presentation. You Rock!👍
This is such a great design using that Ammo box 👍
I don't know why you didn't just solder most of the wires though.
Soldering wires that will have decent ampdraw is a bad idea, solder melts, and can cause resistance issues.
@@SuperVstech If soldered wiring melts you've got a design problem ! lol
@@edwardfletcher7790 yes… you used solder…
@@SuperVstech Yeah, I should have used scotch locks like a Pro ! LMAO
@@SuperVstech I used exclusively solder on one of those DIY spot welder kits. The device runs hundreds of amps and is literally designed to melt metal. Adding solder to the circuit board traces doubled the power and allows me to weld 0.3mm pure nickel with a device roughly the size of a credit card. Even commercial quality spot welders can't do that. If your electronics are running at >350F, time to find a new hobby.
Cool build, I'm wanting to build an emergency power station for my home, and now have some useful ideas. Thanks for the video.
Should have just used 2 bus bars, one for power and one for ground would be nice and easy. Thank you for your time in making the awesome video. 👍
I think I’d want some type of gasket around all the holes in case of rain, etc. cut & paint bolts. Great design.
Thanks Pat! I ended up putting some silicone around the holes on the bottom side of the lid. Just for that extra water resistance.
@@NPLife BUT.....the components you have used are not waterproof. No point sealing the holes in the box if water can go through the actual components. I would doubt how waterproof the box was before you drilled through the top and sides. As you say... not a good idea tbh. However, a nice build.
@@simonhamilton500 Thanks for the comment! It's more for incidental splashes and things while on a boat or in an ice house. No part of me thinks it's waterproof.
Nicely done
How do you charge the battery when it's low?
You did a really good job. the only thing missing is you charging up that battery again you could get the charging system out of an old UPS Computer backup system so you can charge with 110V plug so you can charge the battery back up.
Stumbled across this, never though of this battery box idea. Not sure how to recharge, great follow up comment about using an old UPS. Got a couple lying around, going to trying that! Thanks for the video.
GREAT TUTORIAL. one question though... what do you use the banana clips for? is that how you recharge the battery?
Thanks! Yes, I use them to recharge. I also use them to hook up led light strips on my tent and boat, as well as, running fish finders.
Where did you purchase your materials. Thanks for sharing your build video. I have subscribed to your channel.
I build something similar but after watching this I need to rewire mine. Yours is a lot cleaner
Run piggybacks to a waterproof SAE connector. That amped lifepo4 charger is easy to splice over to SAE. External charging without having to open the box, and you can wire in a solar charge controller inline for a solar generator.
Question? Is the battery rechargeable and how do you charge it?
It is. I charge it through the banana posts with the lithium charger that comes with the battery.
That's cool. Do you think you could charge it off a 100w solar panel?
@@quassisbelltower9408 honestly, I have no idea. I'd imagine you could. It just might take a while.
wow you just saved me a few hundred bucks thanks man!! well done 👌🏻
what was the total cost?
Great build 👍 but wouldn't be better to have the banana plugs seperated ? Plus one side and minus or the other side ?
Hello fellas, is there a way that i can have everything connect to something, and then that something connects to the botttom, im looking to hide the wires, is there a type of junction or something
Dumb question because I am still learning about building a portable battery station. What about the battery possibly overheating?
How much to build one for me? I love it brother.
Stupid question: When you charge the battery, are you attaching the charger directly to the battery terminals or are you using one set of banana terminals to accomplish that task?
Can I use that for a grill
Thank you very useful presentation
Awesome build for power outages
My life was a power outage that lasted nine years and three months. Alone, off-grid in a cabin high-up in a forest. A quiet, peaceful life but sometimes with severe hardship. These power boxes were what I had been looking for. They are truly a life saver. Maybe it’s time to “pay it forward”. I should document my refrigerator, and freezer. Hopefully I can make someone else’s life easier.
Just ordered all the parts for this. Any way you could post some kind of wiring diagram? Your explanation is a little hard to follow and I am not too savy when it comes to wiring. Thx.
Nice job... started on mine... almost finished...
Thanks! I hope yours turns out great!
Cool job
I'm new to this stuff and I was wondering: why 2 sets of the banana posts and can you run some wires from those banana posts to a solar charge controller and charge the battery up via solar? Thanks. Awesome build.👌🏼
He has several things he wants to charge, and the battery has a built-in BMS so as long as your solar setup provides about 14.6v through a proper LIon charger, and you use proper guage wires you can charge the battery however you want.
Have fun 😊
Well done!
To many switches I would keep the master, the lights, & the power & USB ports, eliminate two. The banana posts can be hot wired to the fuse box.
May want to try using a step drill bit next time. Another guy did and it worked well for him, can't remember the channel.
Are the disconnect terminal sizing listed correct? Aren’t the standard sizes 18-22, 16-14, and 12-10? I can’t find the sizes you listed
Good Job. I build them myself for people. I set mine up so they can be charged by AC plug, Solar Panel or a Car Cigarette Lighter Plug. You might want to give the charging some thought. However you've done good,
How much do you charge, or is it only for people you know? I would love to see your final product. I liked the charging options you mentioned.
Kansas, how much do you charge for your build? I'm interested in one to use for my fish finder. Let me know. Thanks.
Thank you but darn it, you're making me think about adding LED lights.
My box bangs around in the back, but I might be able to put the lights in between some ridges in the case...
My box version is not as nice as yours, it's meant to be a straight 12v, light and portable power supply for a high volume (truck tire) air compressor and light duty trolling motor (I only run it for short runs when my hands are busy with fly line) and my fish finder/gps so I just have brass pass through (remote jumper posts) automotive terminals mounted near the handle of a waterproof Pelican clone (waterproof case with a one way vent) with foam that came with it to prevent rattling.
I used 5/16" posts but if I did it again I'd use standard 3/8" posts.
For waterproofing I sacrificed an old inner tube to make rubber washers. Put them on the outside, under the terminal body (not inside) and your case is waterproof again.
The posts come with a screw on piece that locks ring terminals in place and protects the posts.
Since I used rubber washers, it floats, and I don't have to worry about salt water corrosion on my wiring, although I like the LED lights idea >:(
I used to help with minor modifications and installations on friends boats so I like to keep wiring simple and accessible because I've spent way too much time upside down tracing wiring.
If I were to run a heavy duty setup and didn't care about weight I'd probably use automotive side battery terminals and screw in some Better Battery posts so I could run standard car connections for charging and whatnot.
I run short 8ga wires with a 30a fuse inside, and my large tire air compressor has a 10a fuse that I tend to blow when I abuse it and let it get too hot 🔥.
So I don't run down my car battery, my box works great as a portable 12v source for inflatable kayak, SUP, and car camping air mattresses ... oh, I almost forgot about my human wash down pump (self priming ShurFlo with a pressure switch) for when I get out of the water (it draws from a 5 gallon bucket) and I really should use it to wash my car (not allowed to wash my car where I live).
Should do a night test for that light... I'm curious to see how bright it is... also how long could you run 2 lights, both USB outlets and the cigarette lighter on a single charge? Thanks
Great video!,… very clean design.
Will be very helpful when I build my own,… just wondering, how many ways can you recharge the battery,…
Will you post a video for this.
Thanks
What is a good use for terminals on a box? And what size fuze would you recommend I'm running a 12v 15amp sla
How much does the 18ah lithium battery cost ?
Excellent box build. that's talent!!!👍😎
good video and will help me with my box build. Thanks
i like this setup alot thanks for explaining it great video!
The only change I would make is to the master switch. I would not have it wired in a way that it always connects a load to the battery. The voltmeter (load) is always on and even though it's a small load, it is still draining the battery. One possibility would be to have an on/off switch for the voltmeter. Do you really need a constant display of voltage? It only takes one forgetful moment to completely discharge your battery.
Hey! Thanks for watching and the comment! The way it's wired only sends load to the voltmeter when the master switch is on. The master is the cut off between the battery and any components. Sorry if I didn't show that well.
Sorry to bother you how much did you spend for the entire thing?
I notice a number of questions about recharging. I have a similar set up device and as well as connecting a conventional mains powered charger to the banana plugs I have made up a lead to connect to my vehicle car cigarette socket and thus recharge as I am driving to and fro.
What are the banana posts used for.
I thought I'd be able to do something like this, but after watching this, I know I can't.
I have two banana posts as well, one to charge the battery and one to connect a led light, what do you have two?
Neat works! My only concern is on the lithium capacity. What can you do with 18Ah powerbox? I am thinking of building one with 50Ah, softpack, plus an inverter module, car lighter socket, car usb charger, variable voltage booster 12-30v (to power up various laptop), and 12v battery charger rammed into the box
My powerboxes are mainly for running lights in my ice fishing house and charging cameras/drones while I'm off grid hunting or fishing. I have this smaller 18 and a bigger 30 that pretty much cover all of my bases.
What type of fuses did u use and which components took them ?
one thing you might have thought to put in this build is a recharging port other then that I think i'm going to build me one
Should've invested in some terminal strips home depot or lowes will carry them...
I'd rather ask than be surprised, what chargers are you using on these when done? Just a basic auto battery charger and or trickle charger for a standard boat?
I use a dedicated lithium battery charger.
This is what I have.
ampedoutdoors.com/collections/lifepo4-battery/products/lifepo4-lithium-battery-4-charger
You had me at symmetry.
Now how do you charge it, I didnt see a charging port or line
Awesome video!! Thanks for this.
hole saw would have been the best choice for drilling. I like that build want to do the same for my trolling motor battery so I can charge phone or what every when I'm fishing.