Appreciate the "on-going story", seeing the beginning, several middles, as well as the end product. It helps to see the process and to hear you compare it to previous trials. The pros and cons of each method allows one to pull together variations, if needed, to accommodate a different environment or setup. good work, guys!
I’ve been very impressed with how hardy my unheated high tunnel ranunculus have been this year. We have gotten down to 6 deg F four times , I laid one layer of agribon right one top of the plants with no hoops and so far and they’re perfectly fine and actually thriving. Some trials out of Cornell have demonstrated that they can tolerate very low temperatures
Hi @Kyle Wilson We have noticed that the plants begin to show stress when the temp gets around 26-28F real damage can occur for us below these temps. We have been able to get the ranunc's through on temps that have been near zero for short periods with a double Agribon 50 coating. Thank goodness that is very rare for us. When we have lost ranunc's to low temps its usually a situation where we have had a prolonged cold snap where temps don't get above freezing in the day and are even colder at night. This situation for us results in freezing soil temps creeping into the hoophouse from the outside which damages the plant roots.
Yeah ..in getting the vinegar reasoning...still after 80 year of hearing vinegar kills..its hard to learn.. Im zone 8 too but this year im zone desert...lol..its ocotober and usually i have mine in the ground but this year has been bad.. really bad...im hopeful for next year...lol. I so need that dibbler...i may make one this winter..
When you plant these with lots of green foliage, how deep are you planting? Is it ok to bury the stems some? I let my presprouted nuncs go too long and now it’s a tangled mess in a single flat. Definetly will try the 6 cell pack method you have shown here. Thank you.
Hi @Jennifer Ng We plant the ranunculus shallow actually trying not to lett the crown go below the surface as all growth emanates from the crown at soil surface. we have had a few plants get away from us once they get tangled it is tricky!
They look great! How often do you water with the FPJ/BRV/OHN solution? And is there a point you stop using it (bud stage etc)? Also do you water it in through your irrigation or are you applying as a foliar feed? Sorry for all the questions but I'm intrigued!
Hi @Dana Kern We use the FPJ/BRV/OHN are used every 7-10 days until bud stage. At that point we drop the FPJ and use water soluble calcium phosphate with the BRV & OHN every 7-10 days. Once blooms begin to show color we drop all KNF solutions and let the flowers finish. These are all applied as foliar feeds to the plants directly.
Hi @Bev Cruz our tunnels are totally passive in they depend only on Mother Nature for heating. Most of our tunnels are oriented East/West to capture as much heat & light as possible.
Hi @icecreamfever123 The worm casting tea is approximately 2 cups of castings in a fine mesh bag. If you don't have one you could use a nylon stocking and tie it off so the castings stay inside. These castings are put into a 5 gallon bucket of unchlorinated well water and using an aquarium bubbler aerated for approx. 24 hrs. The other solutions are part of Korean Natural farming. Checkout Chris Trump's UA-cam channel(Just serch on Chris trump) for great videos on how to create these items easily at home.
Curious if you increased the distance between plants? I remember in past videos you planted 4-5" between plants and 10" between rows. As always thanks for the informative videos.
Hi @Dustin Sanders, you are super observant! We are increasing the in row spacing to about 7-8" with keeping the 10" between rows. We are testing the theory that it will get better airflow around the plants and produce larger plants.
So it is recommended to grow them under cover in the PNW? I'm still deciding where and how to plant mine out next month and wasn't sure if I needed to keep them covered or not to protect them from all our rain and/or from the cold.
Hi Gapeys Grub When we first started raising ranunc's and Anemones we did raise them in low tunnels in the field. We had to double stack the tunnel. This means the plants needed and agribon cover inside of the plastic covered low tunnel. Although this works, it is labor intensive. Low tunnels heat up real fast on sunny days and require vigilance in venting and moving the agribon fleece on and off to prevent the tunnels from overheating the plants.
Hi @shopgirl1321 ranunculus irrigation depends a lot on the weather. We get many overcast low sunshine days in western Oregon during the winter. So watering is maybe once a month. In a more sunny clime I could imagine it could be more often.
love the dibble you can use standing! excellent!
Appreciate the "on-going story", seeing the beginning, several middles, as well as the end product. It helps to see the process and to hear you compare it to previous trials. The pros and cons of each method allows one to pull together variations, if needed, to accommodate a different environment or setup. good work, guys!
Thanks @Amy Crawford for the kind words and support!
I’ve been very impressed with how hardy my unheated high tunnel ranunculus have been this year. We have gotten down to 6 deg F four times , I laid one layer of agribon right one top of the plants with no hoops and so far and they’re perfectly fine and actually thriving. Some trials out of Cornell have demonstrated that they can tolerate very low temperatures
Hi @Kyle Wilson We have noticed that the plants begin to show stress when the temp gets around 26-28F real damage can occur for us below these temps. We have been able to get the ranunc's through on temps that have been near zero for short periods with a double Agribon 50 coating. Thank goodness that is very rare for us. When we have lost ranunc's to low temps its usually a situation where we have had a prolonged cold snap where temps don't get above freezing in the day and are even colder at night. This situation for us results in freezing soil temps creeping into the hoophouse from the outside which damages the plant roots.
Great video y’all!
Thanks for watching @PepperHarrow Farm!
Yeah ..in getting the vinegar reasoning...still after 80 year of hearing vinegar kills..its hard to learn..
Im zone 8 too but this year im zone desert...lol..its ocotober and usually i have mine in the ground but this year has been bad.. really bad...im hopeful for next year...lol.
I so need that dibbler...i may make one this winter..
When you plant these with lots of green foliage, how deep are you planting? Is it ok to bury the stems some? I let my presprouted nuncs go too long and now it’s a tangled mess in a single flat. Definetly will try the 6 cell pack method you have shown here. Thank you.
Hi @Jennifer Ng We plant the ranunculus shallow actually trying not to lett the crown go below the surface as all growth emanates from the crown at soil surface. we have had a few plants get away from us once they get tangled it is tricky!
Very nice technics guy's . That demonstrate that your professionals
Try humic acid (compost extract not tea ) it works very well to !
Thats a good idea too! Although good worm castings also have a fair amount of humic/fulvic acids too😃
They look great!
How often do you water with the FPJ/BRV/OHN solution? And is there a point you stop using it (bud stage etc)? Also do you water it in through your irrigation or are you applying as a foliar feed?
Sorry for all the questions but I'm intrigued!
Hi @Dana Kern We use the FPJ/BRV/OHN are used every 7-10 days until bud stage. At that point we drop the FPJ and use water soluble calcium phosphate with the BRV & OHN every 7-10 days. Once blooms begin to show color we drop all KNF solutions and let the flowers finish. These are all applied as foliar feeds to the plants directly.
Thanks for the videos and info. Do you use heat in any of your tunnels or just depend on winter solar heat?
Hi @Bev Cruz our tunnels are totally passive in they depend only on Mother Nature for heating. Most of our tunnels are oriented East/West to capture as much heat & light as possible.
Could you please give me the information for the tea and the other fertilizer you use. I have never used any of the fertilizers you have mentioned.
Hi @icecreamfever123 The worm casting tea is approximately 2 cups of castings in a fine mesh bag. If you don't have one you could use a nylon stocking and tie it off so the castings stay inside. These castings are put into a 5 gallon bucket of unchlorinated well water and using an aquarium bubbler aerated for approx. 24 hrs. The other solutions are part of Korean Natural farming. Checkout Chris Trump's UA-cam channel(Just serch on Chris trump) for great videos on how to create these items easily at home.
Bare Mtn Farm Thank you for the information, I will check out Chris Trump’s Channel.
Curious if you increased the distance between plants? I remember in past videos you planted 4-5" between plants and 10" between rows. As always thanks for the informative videos.
Hi @Dustin Sanders, you are super observant! We are increasing the in row spacing to about 7-8" with keeping the 10" between rows. We are testing the theory that it will get better airflow around the plants and produce larger plants.
@@BareMtnFarm Thanks. I will be excited to see if it works. Thanks for all you guys share and do.
So it is recommended to grow them under cover in the PNW? I'm still deciding where and how to plant mine out next month and wasn't sure if I needed to keep them covered or not to protect them from all our rain and/or from the cold.
Hi Gapeys Grub When we first started raising ranunc's and Anemones we did raise them in low tunnels in the field. We had to double stack the tunnel. This means the plants needed and agribon cover inside of the plastic covered low tunnel. Although this works, it is labor intensive. Low tunnels heat up real fast on sunny days and require vigilance in venting and moving the agribon fleece on and off to prevent the tunnels from overheating the plants.
How often are you running the drip irrigation?
Hi @shopgirl1321 ranunculus irrigation depends a lot on the weather. We get many overcast low sunshine days in western Oregon during the winter. So watering is maybe once a month. In a more sunny clime I could imagine it could be more often.