Yes! An ammeter bypass is essential on any old MoPar, and also highly recommend adding headlight relays to take the load off of the headlight and dimmer switches.
When I got my '68 Fury, among the first things I did was bypass the ammeter. First part was to run a new wire with fusible link from the alternator directly to the starter relay. The second thing I did was disconnect both wires from the ammeter gauge and join them together. The ammeter no longer works, but I'm monitoring the charging system with a voltmeter. What someone did that Chrysler was just insane, it's amazing it lasted that long without burning the car up.
Patrick, if you look down the list of my videos to the 68 Polara Coupe I re did the dash. There you'll see the back of the Ammeter gauge. The gauge plastic had started to melt at the connection point, so I did the same - disconnect permanently, join terminals together and put in a volt meter. So much safer! 👍
@@SortedGeorgeGarage Can't believe I missed that video, I'll have to watch it. I have no doubt that behind their different faces was the identical gauge. My dad had the one in what is now my '79 Dodge St. Regis fail rather spectacularly at the worst possible moment. I had the same failure with mercifully less drama in my '80 Cordoba.
My 65 Dodge Coronet's headlight switch gets super hot. Definitely something that makes me uncomfortable. I've swapped out a few of the switches and they all seem to have the same behavior. So I just keep an eye on it.
RLT the light switch is on the same principle as the Ammeter..... all the power needed to light up the headlights goes through the switch first! There is a great modification you can do to make it so much safer, which is to use relays for the lighting system. 1 for the low beams and another one for the high beams. Look it up on Google as it's well worth doing, especially if you've changed out the light switches a few times. Hope it helps bud 👍
Yeah the Ammeter wasn't exactly the best idea from that era. All the current from the Alternator goes through that little gauge before being distributed anywhere else.... awful idea 😳
Yes! An ammeter bypass is essential on any old MoPar, and also highly recommend adding headlight relays to take the load off of the headlight and dimmer switches.
+1 on the headlight relays. Did that to my '68 Fury VIP and it also seemed to help with the lights not dimming so much at traffic lights.
I think the headlight relays are a great idea to do 😃👍🏻
When I got my '68 Fury, among the first things I did was bypass the ammeter. First part was to run a new wire with fusible link from the alternator directly to the starter relay. The second thing I did was disconnect both wires from the ammeter gauge and join them together. The ammeter no longer works, but I'm monitoring the charging system with a voltmeter. What someone did that Chrysler was just insane, it's amazing it lasted that long without burning the car up.
Patrick, if you look down the list of my videos to the 68 Polara Coupe I re did the dash. There you'll see the back of the Ammeter gauge. The gauge plastic had started to melt at the connection point, so I did the same - disconnect permanently, join terminals together and put in a volt meter. So much safer! 👍
@@SortedGeorgeGarage Can't believe I missed that video, I'll have to watch it. I have no doubt that behind their different faces was the identical gauge. My dad had the one in what is now my '79 Dodge St. Regis fail rather spectacularly at the worst possible moment. I had the same failure with mercifully less drama in my '80 Cordoba.
The Ammeter is just a fire waiting to happen mate. What a dreadful idea 🙄
I enjoy your show, Thank you for your style and grace! Can"t wait for your next Vlog!
As Steven Tyler once said…. “Living on the edge!!!!” 🔥💩
Absolutely bruh !!
Scary stuff dude 😬
Yeah tell me about it! It could have been if left like it 😳
Dang nice video!!! Great advice!
Thankyou LB 🤘🏻😎
Thak you SGG!@@SortedGeorgeGarage
My 65 Dodge Coronet's headlight switch gets super hot. Definitely something that makes me uncomfortable. I've swapped out a few of the switches and they all seem to have the same behavior. So I just keep an eye on it.
RLT the light switch is on the same principle as the Ammeter..... all the power needed to light up the headlights goes through the switch first! There is a great modification you can do to make it so much safer, which is to use relays for the lighting system. 1 for the low beams and another one for the high beams. Look it up on Google as it's well worth doing, especially if you've changed out the light switches a few times. Hope it helps bud 👍
it gets worse. all the current goes thru the amp guage and the connection behind the cluster gets hot and melts too
Yeah the Ammeter wasn't exactly the best idea from that era. All the current from the Alternator goes through that little gauge before being distributed anywhere else.... awful idea 😳