One ting worth adding to the whole thing about paint drying out, is that for people living in hotter climates it's not necessarily air getting out that's the issue. If your paint's got condensation in the lid, it's not air getting out, it's the paint getting cooked.
A trick someone taught me is to buy a bottle of clear water soluble acrylic floor wax (i.e. Favor or Mop&Glow, etc.) and add a few drops to your paint. My paints last forever (seriously I'm talking decades here) and I'm still on my first bottle of acrylic floor wax.
Hey Man, I just saw your comment, I know it's a longshot, but could you elaborate how this actually works? I'm trying to google this, with no luck as to how does this work.
From a watercolorist here (and watercolor paints are even more expensive). What dries paint is always.. air... even the tiny amount that pass trough the lid. Put your tubes, pots etc inside a larger airtight container and you double the time they stay safe.
I think Ceramite white and the fact that it comes in the GW starter set teaches the new painter an important lesson in that some paints are just bad and that there's nothing you can do. Pick up a pot of white scar and consider your lesson learned.
Very informative and entertaining! I still switch my GW paints to dropper bottle when I get the chance, but yeah, for washes and contrast, pots are king.
At our hobby shop"the Hobby Lobby" they allow anyone to come in and paint models on Thursdays. They will either give you a little war hammer model or you can bring in your own. It's a great way to learn skills from other people. And check out all the paints they carry. Or what the other people have in their paint kits. It's a really great way to have fun. Stay out of trouble and learn.
Adding the little circle in the cap of dropper bottles is a pretty outstanding idea. Never heard it before now. I have ... a lot ... of dropper bottles to get to.
I had some old GW pots of inks and paints (you know, the ones with the black screw-on cap) survive ~20 years in the attic, stored in a camera bag. Always cold or freezing temperatures. Some was hard as a rock, but others was like brand new!
that eva foam hack totally blew my brains away...Gotta start cutting up some pieces right after I pick my brain matter from the floor I love your format and every joke you squeeze into your vids xD thanks for sharing!
id defiantly recommend getting a paintset or two, you don't need much but a little variety goes a long ways, especially for beginners that don't even know what kind of colors are out there
One enemy is air/paint ratio. As the paint level drops, the air amount increases. To solve this, drop a marble into to pot to reduce the amount of air in a resealed pot container.
Question: How much does Acrylics like folk art or other all purpose craft paints? I had used Citidal a long time ago. Last time I had bought any it was really weak color and runny like a wash, it wasn't a wash. It was supposed to be opaque. btw, I love my Folk Art paints that I have gotten recently to do background colors for cross stitch.
Oh Star Wars Legion Clone Wars ! That's exciting ! I'd love to see you cover some star wars planet basing ! From Kamino to Kashyyyk there's a lot to explore ! :p Great advice for better sealing the dropper bottles ! Most of my Game colors seem to have this problem so I'll give it a try !
I got back into painting after 30 years away from the hobby, old paints stored in a cardboard box in the loft. I had about 30 pots of old GW paints, round pots from before the old hex pots, and 20 of them were still good to use. I hate the GW pots for anything other than washes, and put them all into droppers. Pro Acryl 'twist top droppers' have to be the worst of both worlds, best paints worst bottles.
I have bought a lot of paint in a short period of time and definitely relate to the advice to slow down. I probably own more paint in value than models, so I ought to switch focus and get some stuff painted
Great video as always, definitely see the results of all the that time put into the production value for this video compared to past videos! However, in that same time, you could have easily have put those GW Paints into Alibaba bottles.😜
i had the old old gw pots. and now i am sitting on a shed load of little blocks of color in the little plastic blacktops. managed to save some of the 12 year old stuff by drowning some in demi water and stirring the hell out of it. but most of it is a loss to be fair. now i just pop a glass bead in all of my new ones and give them a shake every so often.
When I first started painting in the late 80s I was pretty much broke so I had the five colors, yello, red, blue, white and black, you had those and you had them all. I had a handy trick for drying paint, alcohol, if I opened a tub and found it was dry, I'd get shitfaced on Vodka and just didn't care any more! Problem solved.
Love your videos, been delaying the time to get in to this hobby, there are many reasons and excuses, but seeing your videos made me stop delaying the painting of minatures. Sometime ago I bought some elf minatures from a friend, but never bought any special paints from any brand like the ones mentioned in the video; access in my region to this specially branded paints is not easy, because of costs and color availabiliry among other reasons, but i have easy access to a great amount of brands and colors of acrilic and oil paints, as you talk about using water or acrilic thiner to stop the paint from drying, I think i will be fine with the paints i have access to. ¿Can you confirm if my thinking is right or wrong?. Keep up the good work, greetings from Colombia
Awesome! Acrylic paints are what you want to pick up. And you can paint with any Acrylic Paints and thin them using water or acrylic paint thinner. Paints that are for models (Vallejo, Citadel, P3) and wargaming are specifically designed to work on models and have been formulated for best results. You may find that certain other acrylic paints don't work as well on models and have a weird uneven surface texture. BUT don't let that discourage you! It is only paint and you can always go back over it again! It's always best to try with what you have rather than spend a lot of time thinking and buying expensive paints. If you need any other help let us know! And when you start painting send us some pictures! We would love to see them! :)
I still miss Ral Partha paints, I have ten that are more than thirty years old; but my favorite paint is still the Reaper Pro Paint line, and I have a bunch of those left at twenty-plus years old now. I've never wasted so much paint with pots, as using dropper bottles causes.
The newer paints are far superior to the olds partha paints. Reaper Master series are much better than the old pro paints. I used to love partha ands reaper pro, but once i got over the learning curve og master series paints, my painting fu jumped enough levels to compete and win. once got used to dropper bottles, the us fae less waste than pot paints. Watch Anne Foersters painting instruction stream Reaper's twitch or UA-cam channel. She specifically teaches how to use reaper master series paints, and gives excellent paint instruction in general. She's the best painting instructor I've seen.
@@garyledford2901 I am nowhere near good enough a painter to worry about the finer details of painting. Mostly I miss decent quality paints that come in pots. Ral Partha had the advantage of a better designed lid which helped prevent paint buildup on the bottle threads. I prefer pots because I prefer working on a single miniature at a time, and I don't like the waste from droppers when all I want to paint is a single chevron. I'd probably hate droppers less if more companies made caps that had the little rod inside, to go into the dropper hole and help keep it from clogging.
@@duckster313 I used to worry about the waste from dropper bottles, until anne foerster of reaper Broke it down. If you paint with a wet palette, you really only need one drop at a time for smaller things. And each bottle of reaper paint typically holds 280 up to 310 drops. They tested it. Further, and uses pure white more than any other color, and a bottle of pure white typically lasts her 6 plus months, and She doesn't use 1 or 2 drops she uses like 6 to 8 drops at a time for even painting something small on a miniture, because she uses a well palette and she uses enough to fill the well. As for dropper bottles clogging, just straighten one end of a paper clip and shove that through the whole to remove clogs.
@@garyledford2901 I get it, but I don't use a wet pallete because I don't paint that often. Easily can go 4-6 months without painting. I'd like to see the bottles be a bit more short and squat, so they could have a wider lid and function as both a bot and dropper bottle at the same time. Best of both worlds.
I just had paused this video and ran to my room to give a vigorous shake to a few dozen bottles of vellejo I bought last year and had been collecting dust in the corner of my closet, lol.
Thank you for this video. Actually the "conspiration theory" of GW having bad pots on purpose can be easily put to rest, if you just look up the line of production. I own some pots from the second generation of citadel paints (where the skull white actually worked as intended) Also I bought the 3rd generation line in the big box at that time (and screwed up storing them properly since I was too young and naive) The 3rd generation pots were with screw on lids, which were absolutly not airtight. (yes, except for some washes none survived, but with my knowledge today, I could have saved them...) The 4th generation had an improved lid, which could be flipped opened in the middle, without removeing the whole lid. I dont know exactly which generation of pot we are using currently, since I had some RL interfering with my hobby life. But since you mentioned the pots before the actual line, I think the main reason for that step was cost reduction. The older lid seems to be more plastic than the newer one.
Also, whatever you do, DO NOT put little lead fishing weights in your paint bottles as agitators! I did this and lost about 40 of my Vallejo paints! A very pricy mistake! The paint reacts very badly to the lead, especially reds, and with in two weeks they all coagulated into solid masses. Stainless steel BBs or ceramic beads are best.
Lol if you want your paints to last, rule 1 it's don't buy GW. But If you are already invested in GW paints, if you really wanna stick it to the man then store them upside down. The paint forms a seal in the lid and keeps air from drying it out. I'm pretty sure that's actually that why they went to round top to paint pots- To make it hard to store them upside down. I was once offered a job at AGW store in had to turn it down, but I have insider information that the paint drying out In the pot is actually intentional. That way if it doesn't get used and dries out, people have to buy more. So flip GW a big middle finger by storing your paint upside down, although again I know it's challenging with their pots having round lids. And again, this was intentional to make it difficult to store them this way.
I actually had a similar dropper explosion of a bright blue on about 10 mini’s I had in front of me on my desk, recently finished for kill team.. It made me quit the hobby for about 6 months. 😭😂
Hi! It's "The Letter J". Great vid. 👍👍 Question, could you tell me how Vallejo Game Color compares to regular Vallejo model color? I've got the regular stuff, I've been considering getting a Game Color set. Is the finish on the game color stuff perhaps closer to the finish on GW paint? I only have a few GW paints but I find it has an almost satin finish, and honestly I like that a bit better. I'm not looking for gloss paints mind you, just less matte than a chalk board like my Vallejo paints. Thanks in advance.
Hi Jay, I bought the Game Colour set you can see in this video, and I also got a Model Colour set (Basic Colours USA) more recently. I'm not sure how to put it, but Game Colour is intended for fantasy models, so they're supposed to be a bit more... unrealistic, I guess? But honestly, I don't think there's any real difference between them: I have a Model Colour purple which looks perfect for some Elven cloth, for example. I think the two ranges just come in sets which are intended for different things, so Model Colour tend to have more neutral/natural colours in each set. They're all awesome paints, and there are some great ones in the Game Colour set! Hope I helped.
There is a noticeable difference between the two, primarily because Model Color uses a vinyl binder (this is because it was originally intended to be marketed towards Special Effects studios for painting masks, but when that failed they repurposed it and marketed towards model makers) while Game Color uses an acrylic resin binder. This means that Model Colors tend to have a slightly more satin finish to them. Also, comparatively Model Colors tend to be slightly thicker out of the bottle. Lastly, while there are certainly some saturated colors in the line Model Color paints tend to be more de-saturated, whereas the opposite holds true for Game Color; while a few of the colors are de-saturated, the majority are very saturated (making them much more vibrant in comparison). Comparing the two, there's not much difference in terms of finish between Citadel Paints and Game Color paints. If anything, I would say that the big difference between the two lines (price not-with-standing) is in available colors; while Game Color does have a fairly decent range of colors, Citadel seems to have a good deal more in terms of color range.
Good old "The Letter J" looks like you've been helped! I have a little of both but I think you'll find the game color to be the best for wargaming purposes!
6:15 I think you're supposed to remove that little piece of plastic at the back of the pot, no ? I have only one of those new pots (just got back into the hobby) and I'm tempted to cut it
i only use the 3 basic colors, white and black.... so 5 on total. and i also have ONE metallic, which is silver. thats all. i can mix them to be any color i want them to be.
I got back into warhammer two years or so ago, and all my old black-pot GW paints, was ruined. But my Game color and army painter stuff was as good as new. I actually still haven't used them up yet. Make of that what you will, but even for a new painter, I'd say to not buy GW paints. Unless you are buying washes, those are fantastic, and no new painter should be without the two main sources of liquid skill!
That's because fluo paints are "special effects" paints. The deal with fluo ones is that they reflect back not just visible light, but also invisible, up to the UV range, so they are notoriously more luminous, they're not just another shade of red or blue.Therefore you can't mix them from normal ones. This is the same case for any other "special effects" paint, like textured, blood, oil, color-shifting and many others, it's either paint plus something, or special pigments.
Hey look at that! a video on youtube about paint and it's not just "use a wet palette". Thanks for this.
YES! That is very true! I'm glad you enjoyed our video!!
One ting worth adding to the whole thing about paint drying out, is that for people living in hotter climates it's not necessarily air getting out that's the issue. If your paint's got condensation in the lid, it's not air getting out, it's the paint getting cooked.
This is a great point to add!!!
A trick someone taught me is to buy a bottle of clear water soluble acrylic floor wax (i.e. Favor or Mop&Glow, etc.) and add a few drops to your paint. My paints last forever (seriously I'm talking decades here) and I'm still on my first bottle of acrylic floor wax.
Hey Man,
I just saw your comment, I know it's a longshot, but could you elaborate how this actually works? I'm trying to google this, with no luck as to how does this work.
@@Regeadg it works like a gloss varnish will
From a watercolorist here (and watercolor paints are even more expensive). What dries paint is always.. air... even the tiny amount that pass trough the lid. Put your tubes, pots etc inside a larger airtight container and you double the time they stay safe.
Thank you for that advice.
Maybe it will help me keep some of my paints for another 20 years. (like tentacle pink...)
I think Ceramite white and the fact that it comes in the GW starter set teaches the new painter an important lesson in that some paints are just bad and that there's nothing you can do. Pick up a pot of white scar and consider your lesson learned.
Thanks for inspiring me to rehydrate my pots. Got some from 1999 still going strong.
This channel is great. The videos actually help me in a way most others don't.
Very informative and entertaining! I still switch my GW paints to dropper bottle when I get the chance, but yeah, for washes and contrast, pots are king.
This channel is on its good way to become one of my favorite miniature channels ❤️
Oh, finally a use for that White, thanks for the tip!
I fully agree with you, guy. Paints are here to be used, not to be seen on shelf. Nice video, thanks for posting !
Love your style and humour Jay. Some great advice in this video. Thanks!
Thanks so much!!!! Glad you enjoyed the giggles and the advice!
3:45 "But it might be good for leveling your couch"
Somebody call the police I've witnessed a murder
3:44 white paint only good for leveling couches, 3:51 uses it to paint anyway 🤣🤣🤣
Well you live and you learn as they say
Fantastic paint advice here, especially the point about not buying too much!
Thank so much! Glad you liked the advice and we hope you found it helpful! 😊
I cant remember the name, but, I love that citadel road strip yellow. It's my favorite yellow. Army painter's daemonc yellow is nice too.
yo, im about to do the craft foam cap trick to all my paints. thats awesome! thanks for the idea!
3:13 Wow, for a minute I was really shocked here - because that shopping cart looks exactly like mine!
9:30 this happened to me recently with my Vallejo Red... It was a sad day... Learned my lesson - keeping some paper clips around since then.
At our hobby shop"the Hobby Lobby" they allow anyone to come in and paint models on Thursdays. They will either give you a little war hammer model or you can bring in your own. It's a great way to learn skills from other people. And check out all the paints they carry. Or what the other people have in their paint kits. It's a really great way to have fun. Stay out of trouble and learn.
3:14 Danny de Vito and dakimakuras? You sir, are a scholar.
You KNOW IT
Adding the little circle in the cap of dropper bottles is a pretty outstanding idea. Never heard it before now. I have ... a lot ... of dropper bottles to get to.
I had some old GW pots of inks and paints (you know, the ones with the black screw-on cap) survive ~20 years in the attic, stored in a camera bag. Always cold or freezing temperatures. Some was hard as a rock, but others was like brand new!
that eva foam hack totally blew my brains away...Gotta start cutting up some pieces right after I pick my brain matter from the floor
I love your format and every joke you squeeze into your vids xD thanks for sharing!
Awesome I'm glad you enjoy the new format!!
@@EonsOfBattle what about doubling or trippling the foam?
Great video. I have sadly had that 8:31 happen way too much in my painting career. I think the tips you gave here may help me avoid another disaster.
great content found you recently and I really enjoy watching your videos,
Thanks!!! Glad you’re enjoying the videos!!!
Just found your channel and am already learning some things from just two videos.
Awesome Micah! Glad we could help you out!!
I like to put a drop of distilled water in the pots if they look like there drying out when sealing up after use.
id defiantly recommend getting a paintset or two, you don't need much but a little variety goes a long ways, especially for beginners that don't even know what kind of colors are out there
But I only own one company's full paint line :(
Commentary is hilarious... but behind all your satire... you are absolutely correct... and yes I occasionally level my couches with Citadel Pots
One enemy is air/paint ratio. As the paint level drops, the air amount increases. To solve this, drop a marble into to pot to reduce the amount of air in a resealed pot container.
Love the “tip” at the end.
You can use a bit of leftover sprue as a paint agitator too!
that works too but might be too light to mix thick paints.
Paint agitators from Army Painter are like 7 bucks for a hundred. I think it’s worth the investment.
Just for my new wet palette last night - it’s excellent! And did you guys get this idea from the LIVE the other day?! Lol great video - really helpful
Best decision when I just started a year ago was jumping on someone selling their P3 paints, they contrast with citadels thickness very well.
Thank you for the tip with the droppers
Question: How much does Acrylics like folk art or other all purpose craft paints? I had used Citidal a long time ago. Last time I had bought any it was really weak color and runny like a wash, it wasn't a wash. It was supposed to be opaque. btw, I love my Folk Art paints that I have gotten recently to do background colors for cross stitch.
Oh Star Wars Legion Clone Wars ! That's exciting ! I'd love to see you cover some star wars planet basing ! From Kamino to Kashyyyk there's a lot to explore ! :p
Great advice for better sealing the dropper bottles ! Most of my Game colors seem to have this problem so I'll give it a try !
Glad you enjoyed the video and get sealing!
Even more if you have watched the Clone Wars series! That darkness planet was inspiring!
@@jherazob Yeah Umbara is pretty amazing ! Felucia is also quite alien and is in Revenge of the SIth ;)
I just made that chib with some bearings they started to cut due to weak chrome plating
I got back into painting after 30 years away from the hobby, old paints stored in a cardboard box in the loft. I had about 30 pots of old GW paints, round pots from before the old hex pots, and 20 of them were still good to use. I hate the GW pots for anything other than washes, and put them all into droppers. Pro Acryl 'twist top droppers' have to be the worst of both worlds, best paints worst bottles.
Shelf life thug got me rollin 🤣🤣🤣
🤭🤭🤭
I returned to hobby after years. At the moment I use my citadel chaos black from 1993. It is in good condition with out any care since 1995.
30 years of painting and i never thought to use the back of the brush to transfer paint to the palette.
mind blown
I know right. This chaps got some proper obvious but over looked tips.
I have bought a lot of paint in a short period of time and definitely relate to the advice to slow down. I probably own more paint in value than models, so I ought to switch focus and get some stuff painted
Great video as always, definitely see the results of all the that time put into the production value for this video compared to past videos!
However, in that same time, you could have easily have put those GW Paints into Alibaba bottles.😜
LOL I think we wasted all our time.
3:13 hold up, we need to see this shopping cart when it is delivered
🤭
i had the old old gw pots. and now i am sitting on a shed load of little blocks of color in the little plastic blacktops. managed to save some of the 12 year old stuff by drowning some in demi water and stirring the hell out of it. but most of it is a loss to be fair. now i just pop a glass bead in all of my new ones and give them a shake every so often.
What size is that hole punch? And thickness of craft eva?
You can use a normal hole punch for paper. Standard craft foam for kids crafts will work around 2-3mm
Very complete and useful... and funny. Thanks my friend.
My 1996 games workshop shining gold is still wet and shiny, I guess it belongs in a museum.
When I first started painting in the late 80s I was pretty much broke so I had the five colors, yello, red, blue, white and black, you had those and you had them all. I had a handy trick for drying paint, alcohol, if I opened a tub and found it was dry, I'd get shitfaced on Vodka and just didn't care any more! Problem solved.
Lol - the blooper reel at the end 🤣
Yes, i was looking for this. On my way to get some eva foam.
Love your videos, been delaying the time to get in to this hobby, there are many reasons and excuses, but seeing your videos made me stop delaying the painting of minatures. Sometime ago I bought some elf minatures from a friend, but never bought any special paints from any brand like the ones mentioned in the video; access in my region to this specially branded paints is not easy, because of costs and color availabiliry among other reasons, but i have easy access to a great amount of brands and colors of acrilic and oil paints, as you talk about using water or acrilic thiner to stop the paint from drying, I think i will be fine with the paints i have access to. ¿Can you confirm if my thinking is right or wrong?.
Keep up the good work, greetings from Colombia
Awesome! Acrylic paints are what you want to pick up. And you can paint with any Acrylic Paints and thin them using water or acrylic paint thinner. Paints that are for models (Vallejo, Citadel, P3) and wargaming are specifically designed to work on models and have been formulated for best results. You may find that certain other acrylic paints don't work as well on models and have a weird uneven surface texture. BUT don't let that discourage you! It is only paint and you can always go back over it again! It's always best to try with what you have rather than spend a lot of time thinking and buying expensive paints. If you need any other help let us know! And when you start painting send us some pictures! We would love to see them! :)
I adore the ceramite white hate. It gives me life to know how someone else knows my pain.
I still miss Ral Partha paints, I have ten that are more than thirty years old; but my favorite paint is still the Reaper Pro Paint line, and I have a bunch of those left at twenty-plus years old now. I've never wasted so much paint with pots, as using dropper bottles causes.
The newer paints are far superior to the olds partha paints. Reaper Master series are much better than the old pro paints. I used to love partha ands reaper pro, but once i got over the learning curve og master series paints, my painting fu jumped enough levels to compete and win. once got used to dropper bottles, the us fae less waste than pot paints.
Watch Anne Foersters painting instruction stream Reaper's twitch or UA-cam channel. She specifically teaches how to use reaper master series paints, and gives excellent paint instruction in general. She's the best painting instructor I've seen.
@@garyledford2901 I am nowhere near good enough a painter to worry about the finer details of painting. Mostly I miss decent quality paints that come in pots. Ral Partha had the advantage of a better designed lid which helped prevent paint buildup on the bottle threads. I prefer pots because I prefer working on a single miniature at a time, and I don't like the waste from droppers when all I want to paint is a single chevron. I'd probably hate droppers less if more companies made caps that had the little rod inside, to go into the dropper hole and help keep it from clogging.
@@duckster313 I used to worry about the waste from dropper bottles, until anne foerster of reaper Broke it down.
If you paint with a wet palette, you really only need one drop at a time for smaller things. And each bottle of reaper paint typically holds 280 up to 310 drops. They tested it. Further, and uses pure white more than any other color, and a bottle of pure white typically lasts her 6 plus months, and She doesn't use 1 or 2 drops she uses like 6 to 8 drops at a time for even painting something small on a miniture, because she uses a well palette and she uses enough to fill the well.
As for dropper bottles clogging, just straighten one end of a paper clip and shove that through the whole to remove clogs.
@@garyledford2901 I get it, but I don't use a wet pallete because I don't paint that often. Easily can go 4-6 months without painting. I'd like to see the bottles be a bit more short and squat, so they could have a wider lid and function as both a bot and dropper bottle at the same time. Best of both worlds.
As an imperial fist player, I can say I own way to many yellows, 14 to be exact, took me forever to find the best ones that work for my taste.
I just had paused this video and ran to my room to give a vigorous shake to a few dozen bottles of vellejo I bought last year and had been collecting dust in the corner of my closet, lol.
some very nice new tips, I've never haerd of before.
Awesome glad we were of service!
Thank you for this video.
Actually the "conspiration theory" of GW having bad pots on purpose can be easily put to rest, if you just look up the line of production.
I own some pots from the second generation of citadel paints (where the skull white actually worked as intended)
Also I bought the 3rd generation line in the big box at that time (and screwed up storing them properly since I was too young and naive)
The 3rd generation pots were with screw on lids, which were absolutly not airtight. (yes, except for some washes none survived, but with my knowledge today, I could have saved them...)
The 4th generation had an improved lid, which could be flipped opened in the middle, without removeing the whole lid.
I dont know exactly which generation of pot we are using currently, since I had some RL interfering with my hobby life.
But since you mentioned the pots before the actual line, I think the main reason for that step was cost reduction.
The older lid seems to be more plastic than the newer one.
Also, whatever you do, DO NOT put little lead fishing weights in your paint bottles as agitators! I did this and lost about 40 of my Vallejo paints! A very pricy mistake! The paint reacts very badly to the lead, especially reds, and with in two weeks they all coagulated into solid masses. Stainless steel BBs or ceramic beads are best.
Lol if you want your paints to last, rule 1 it's don't buy GW. But If you are already invested in GW paints, if you really wanna stick it to the man then store them upside down. The paint forms a seal in the lid and keeps air from drying it out. I'm pretty sure that's actually that why they went to round top to paint pots- To make it hard to store them upside down. I was once offered a job at AGW store in had to turn it down, but I have insider information that the paint drying out In the pot is actually intentional. That way if it doesn't get used and dries out, people have to buy more. So flip GW a big middle finger by storing your paint upside down, although again I know it's challenging with their pots having round lids. And again, this was intentional to make it difficult to store them this way.
8:31 made me physically feel pain
The paint spill or the painful reminder that Qui-Gon left us too soon?
@@travislankford9254 both
As it should!
I've had that happen once. Never again...
I actually had a similar dropper explosion of a bright blue on about 10 mini’s I had in front of me on my desk, recently finished for kill team.. It made me quit the hobby for about 6 months. 😭😂
Excellent, entertaining video!
This video was hilarious!!!! 😂😂
Thank you! 😊
Games Workshop does make the best couch levelers!
Love these videos!!
Thank you!!!
I am new to the hobby in planning on playing ultramarines What colours would you recommend and from what manufacturer
hhmm, I'm not sure. I would check out Luetin09's channel he is currently building a massive ultramarine army in classic colors.
I just bought a set of 50 paints that I have watched several reviews about and its competitors. Damn this algorithm. 😅
I have only lost a retributior armor that dried out because I didn't close it tight enough
first thing i learned in art school was the color wheel and how to use it. learn it people.
Hi! It's "The Letter J". Great vid.
👍👍
Question, could you tell me how Vallejo Game Color compares to regular Vallejo model color?
I've got the regular stuff, I've been considering getting a Game Color set.
Is the finish on the game color stuff perhaps closer to the finish on GW paint?
I only have a few GW paints but I find it has an almost satin finish, and honestly I like that a bit better.
I'm not looking for gloss paints mind you, just less matte than a chalk board like my Vallejo paints.
Thanks in advance.
Hi Jay, I bought the Game Colour set you can see in this video, and I also got a Model Colour set (Basic Colours USA) more recently.
I'm not sure how to put it, but Game Colour is intended for fantasy models, so they're supposed to be a bit more... unrealistic, I guess? But honestly, I don't think there's any real difference between them: I have a Model Colour purple which looks perfect for some Elven cloth, for example. I think the two ranges just come in sets which are intended for different things, so Model Colour tend to have more neutral/natural colours in each set. They're all awesome paints, and there are some great ones in the Game Colour set!
Hope I helped.
There is a noticeable difference between the two, primarily because Model Color uses a vinyl binder (this is because it was originally intended to be marketed towards Special Effects studios for painting masks, but when that failed they repurposed it and marketed towards model makers) while Game Color uses an acrylic resin binder. This means that Model Colors tend to have a slightly more satin finish to them. Also, comparatively Model Colors tend to be slightly thicker out of the bottle. Lastly, while there are certainly some saturated colors in the line Model Color paints tend to be more de-saturated, whereas the opposite holds true for Game Color; while a few of the colors are de-saturated, the majority are very saturated (making them much more vibrant in comparison).
Comparing the two, there's not much difference in terms of finish between Citadel Paints and Game Color paints. If anything, I would say that the big difference between the two lines (price not-with-standing) is in available colors; while Game Color does have a fairly decent range of colors, Citadel seems to have a good deal more in terms of color range.
@@Ginoitaliano thank you!
@@TheRunesmythe thank you!
Good old "The Letter J" looks like you've been helped! I have a little of both but I think you'll find the game color to be the best for wargaming purposes!
Love this channel
Thanks!! It was fun having you on the live stream tonight! Join us again! We normally do them Monday-Saturday! At 9PM CST!
6:15 I think you're supposed to remove that little piece of plastic at the back of the pot, no ? I have only one of those new pots (just got back into the hobby) and I'm tempted to cut it
i only use the 3 basic colors, white and black.... so 5 on total. and i also have ONE metallic, which is silver. thats all. i can mix them to be any color i want them to be.
Nifty mate! Shame you’re homophobic and misogynistic.
I gambled and got Vallejo brown all over my wall haha
"Paint have shelf life"
Ah yes, GW Corax White, why did I buy it 😂😅
Excellent video
I got back into warhammer two years or so ago, and all my old black-pot GW paints, was ruined. But my Game color and army painter stuff was as good as new. I actually still haven't used them up yet. Make of that what you will, but even for a new painter, I'd say to not buy GW paints. Unless you are buying washes, those are fantastic, and no new painter should be without the two main sources of liquid skill!
lately i really switched to use alot of inks and less citadel paint ^^
7:15 well that escalated quickly
That couch joke
Lots of great info, and a funny video too.
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it!
LMAO! "Paint is not LEGOs!"
I subscribed for Black Templars, I stayed for the @1:29
Oh dear @1:55 has me reconsidering everything XD
Just transfer your Citadel paints to dropper bottles 😉
Lol on it
How much do they pay you?
oooh i just realised this was uploeaded on my bday
Loved the corny jokes. Best video yet.
How did billy escape to your channel?
Great editing, great video! Keep it up! :D Love the channel.
...Also don't buy Citadel paints lmao.
Thank you! Yes that is always a good tip lol Love a good Vallejo!
Woo Hoo Red Top Plaza represented!
HELL YEAH!!! I was hoping someone would get it!!!
That is my old hangout when a hobbit ran the store.
I own shit loads of paint, but am happy to rehydrate them when needed. It's just water evaporating after all.
Yes
I thought Qui gon said there's always a bigger fish
Florescent color can not be made through the primarys
That's because fluo paints are "special effects" paints. The deal with fluo ones is that they reflect back not just visible light, but also invisible, up to the UV range, so they are notoriously more luminous, they're not just another shade of red or blue.Therefore you can't mix them from normal ones. This is the same case for any other "special effects" paint, like textured, blood, oil, color-shifting and many others, it's either paint plus something, or special pigments.
@@jherazob i mean I get why I'm just an asshole lol
Well to be fair he did say every "color" could be made and this is true, foourescence isnt a color, it's not in the visible light spectrum.
I have old gw pots that are still liquid, new gw pots are far worse
2:32 Daemonic yellow does not deserve any love. WORST PAINT.