I have been reviewing scientific research papers on orchard floor management strategies to help maximise yields. It is interesting to compare the different approaches to mulching (e.g. woodchip, straw, grass, plastic) and the consequences of implementing each of them. Surprisingly, mulching is repeatedly coming out on top in terms of yield and tree growth, beating pre and post-chemical treatments. To my surprise, green manure approaches are underperforming in trials. Possibly that is down to bad practice, as I suspect you probably need to terminate the plants after the accumulation phase before the nutrients are spent on their next phase of growth. Also what I found very interesting, was the use of biochar to help offset pH lockup in high nitrogen applications, from chemicals, manure or possibly hay mulches. I would be interested to hear if you agree with the interpretation of the research papers, and what you think is the best practice for orchard floor management or managing market gardens.
The woodchip mulch would encourage wood loving fungi growth that would benefit the tree's root zones and microbiome. Helping to suppress weed growth would be an added benefit. 👍 As the woodchips eventually break down, they improve the soil with organic matter. Looks like you will want to invest in a woodchipper at some point unless your family already has one.
Hello Steve. I agree with your woodchip comments and as for a woodchipper, I need to buy one and have been searching online. I have also been looking at shears for a digger, that will cut coppicing trees and enable me to use the digger to feed it into a woodchipper. Currently I hire a woodchipper by the day when I need it, but as a result I have to have a lot of trees to woodchip to justify that. I constantly see opportunities to woodchip small quantities of branches, but it is not worth a days hire. I tried hauling branches / tree offcuts, back to the farm over last winter to build up enough material to hire a woodchipper. It is very hard work removing the branches from overgrown grass if they have been sitting for a couple of months. The branches also end up matted through each other. All the best.
Hey. do you think maybe a gravel mulch might also work? Would not be as good as wood chip or straw i imagine, but better than the plastic mat, as the ground would still breed(depending on granulation) and stone does offer some nutrition to the plants. Also, how do you plan to harvest when the trees are mulched?
Hello Riga I haven't thought about gravel, but I did consider using logs (and briefly rocks), but in the end settled on woodchip as the trials suggested it was probably the best solution. With regards to harvest, so far all the trees will be hand harvested, so mulching doesn't impact that. All the best Dary
Interesting that wood mulch wouldn't reduce available nitrogen. I have read that it dose in the short term. Any idea if the species of mulch matters. I would be curious to know if the species of wood mulch could effect mycorrhizal content of the soil. Or if there are any grass diseases or pests that could be used to help suppress growth. Good luck very informative.
Hello Josh. From what I've read, nitrogen robbing might not be that big of an issue, plus young trees don't respond well to nitrogen, so if it does happen, it might help young trees. With regards to types of mulch, my preference is for Willow woodchip, as it contains Indolebutyric acid that stimulates root growth and salicylic acid that help improve tree health. With regards to suppressing grass, I have been reading about Yellow Rattle as a possible solution, but haven't put it to the test yet. All the best
Good afternoon, I have just found your page and I’m very interested in planting some hazelnuts to go with my 35acres of walnuts. How does the yield look in 2023 which is possibly their 4th year?
Hi Mark. I didn't get much data from 2023... but I will try and be disciplined this year and will try and take the camera with me to provide an update.
Dara - great review. I would think the hay approach is possibly effective in other climates (the not-so-wet ones! Ruth Stout type gardening doesn't work here!). Have you come across research from Reading UK - I have heard about it but can't find it. They are mixing biochar with ramial woodchip from willow to help ash plantations survive the dieback and are finding good results. The principle would be the same - you want growth but also yield hence you need the P and K in reasonable (unscientific term!) amounts for fruit formation etc rather than just the N from grass breakdown.
My original plan was to graze the orchard with cattle or sheep. However, health and safety guidance in the UK is not to graze animals in an orchard for 12 months before harvest to prevent pathogens, such as E. Coli in manure, from cross-contaminating the crop. As I'm harvesting every 12 months, I can't graze the orchard with livestock.
Regarding fossil fuels, another benefit of not repeatedly mowing throughout the year to reduce grass growth is a significant reduction in carbon emissions and related financial costs. I have some areas of the farm that I haven't mowed or grazed for several years and what we are starting to notice is that we are losing biodiversity in those areas, so some level of management is required as the grass over powers flowers and other plants.
@@GubbFarm interesting, never thought of that potential issue. Could the straights be baled? Or the bits in between the trees be grouped into the centre and then raked/tedded for silage or hay? Would be another income stream for you and mean that the mowing not just a single purpose job?
@@GubbFarm possibly reducing biodiversity now but leave some sections to see what happens. The biodiversity could return if conditions favorably change. I've noticed on our small bit of land in West Cavan that where some corners have been let go, the plants express themselves initially with flowers and uncommon plants coming through. But then what you get is gorse/whin and bryers taking over. And a server reduction in diversity. Maybe this is how a forest would retake land in this area of the country? Be interesting to see what happens after the gorse period.
@@44birdie44 That is a good point. I did think about it, but then I backed away from it because bailing the hay removes nutrients, which I would then have to add back in. As I'm trying to follow organic principles, it is quite tricky sourcing fertilisers. The other issue is that I have a lot of Rushes in the grass, so it is not of great quality. That being said the Rushes are reducing with mowing and will hopefully further reduce as the trees dry out the ground. One of the consequences of mulching the grass is that you can see the richness in the soil build, with the grasses and wild flowers coming back stronger each year. I'm hoping that the fertility from mulching down the grass in autumn will in turn benefit the trees as soil fertility builds. What is also interesting as well to observe, is that there is significantly increased plant diversity year on year in the orchard. This is either a result of mowing or the removal of livestock, or possibly both as I have wet ground that gets easily poached by the cattle. As a result, the orchard is alive with insects and this is important for pest control. For example, when harvesting the nuts this week, I was repeatedly brushing off Lady Birds, who in turn take care of Aphids. I do find it very interesting trying to work out what actions create the best outcome and it is very unlikely that what I'm doing is right, but it does looks like it is going in the right direction.
Tolly has done some recent research on RWC, in vegetable growing. ua-cam.com/video/YhXBvPCIYZ4/v-deo.html could growing rows of sallix between the nut trees be a solution? (mulching them insitu with the flail mower.)
I do find that idea very interesting, but I'm concerned that the situation would get out of control. Once the Sally trees get a root establish, even if you stub them, they will regrow. Also the spacing of the trees, is such that there won't be much room between them when they mature, so it will become difficult to cut or remove the Sally. That being said, it is an interesting idea.
Have a look at syntropic agriculture. No chemicals, uses the grass cuttings as mulch. Highly successful and low cost as you're avoiding inputs like herbicides and fertilizers. It sounds like several of your papers recognize the benefits of syntropic practices.
Hello Peter. I had a look at Syntropic agriculture, briefly. From memory, it appears to be based on the principal of succession. It is interesting, but I want to hold the land at a fix point, as opposed to letting it develop into a forest type set up. I couldn't see an application of it in my context, but it should be noted that I only watched a couple of videos on it about Ernst Götsch in Brazil. I would welcome thoughts on how you would implement it in my context. All the best.
@@GubbFarm You're transforming meadows into orchards (which really should be understood as woodlands), so while your goal may be to hold at a point, you're making the biggest transition - open grass to woodland trees. You would benefit from looking much further into syntropic agriculture. It's being used for annual vegetable production, without any intention of progressing on to food forest. It is absolutely applicable to your context.
I have been reviewing scientific research papers on orchard floor management strategies to help maximise yields. It is interesting to compare the different approaches to mulching (e.g. woodchip, straw, grass, plastic) and the consequences of implementing each of them.
Surprisingly, mulching is repeatedly coming out on top in terms of yield and tree growth, beating pre and post-chemical treatments.
To my surprise, green manure approaches are underperforming in trials. Possibly that is down to bad practice, as I suspect you probably need to terminate the plants after the accumulation phase before the nutrients are spent on their next phase of growth.
Also what I found very interesting, was the use of biochar to help offset pH lockup in high nitrogen applications, from chemicals, manure or possibly hay mulches.
I would be interested to hear if you agree with the interpretation of the research papers, and what you think is the best practice for orchard floor management or managing market gardens.
This is really useful, Dary. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful! I hope all is well Bob.
The woodchip mulch would encourage wood loving fungi growth that would benefit the tree's root zones and microbiome. Helping to suppress weed growth would be an added benefit. 👍 As the woodchips eventually break down, they improve the soil with organic matter. Looks like you will want to invest in a woodchipper at some point unless your family already has one.
Hello Steve. I agree with your woodchip comments and as for a woodchipper, I need to buy one and have been searching online. I have also been looking at shears for a digger, that will cut coppicing trees and enable me to use the digger to feed it into a woodchipper.
Currently I hire a woodchipper by the day when I need it, but as a result I have to have a lot of trees to woodchip to justify that. I constantly see opportunities to woodchip small quantities of branches, but it is not worth a days hire. I tried hauling branches / tree offcuts, back to the farm over last winter to build up enough material to hire a woodchipper. It is very hard work removing the branches from overgrown grass if they have been sitting for a couple of months. The branches also end up matted through each other.
All the best.
Hey. do you think maybe a gravel mulch might also work? Would not be as good as wood chip or straw i imagine, but better than the plastic mat, as the ground would still breed(depending on granulation) and stone does offer some nutrition to the plants. Also, how do you plan to harvest when the trees are mulched?
Hello Riga
I haven't thought about gravel, but I did consider using logs (and briefly rocks), but in the end settled on woodchip as the trials suggested it was probably the best solution.
With regards to harvest, so far all the trees will be hand harvested, so mulching doesn't impact that.
All the best
Dary
Hey there Dary, what varieties have done the best for you in the low ground?
What is best to suppress weeds in the orchard between the trees?
Interesting that wood mulch wouldn't reduce available nitrogen. I have read that it dose in the short term. Any idea if the species of mulch matters. I would be curious to know if the species of wood mulch could effect mycorrhizal content of the soil. Or if there are any grass diseases or pests that could be used to help suppress growth. Good luck very informative.
Hello Josh. From what I've read, nitrogen robbing might not be that big of an issue, plus young trees don't respond well to nitrogen, so if it does happen, it might help young trees.
With regards to types of mulch, my preference is for Willow woodchip, as it contains Indolebutyric acid that stimulates root growth and salicylic acid that help improve tree health.
With regards to suppressing grass, I have been reading about Yellow Rattle as a possible solution, but haven't put it to the test yet.
All the best
Thanks for the info.
If decomposing wood robs nitrogen wouldn’t it be easier for the microbes to take nitrogen from the air rather than the soil?
Good afternoon, I have just found your page and I’m very interested in planting some hazelnuts to go with my 35acres of walnuts. How does the yield look in 2023 which is possibly their 4th year?
Hi Mark. I didn't get much data from 2023... but I will try and be disciplined this year and will try and take the camera with me to provide an update.
Dara - great review. I would think the hay approach is possibly effective in other climates (the not-so-wet ones! Ruth Stout type gardening doesn't work here!). Have you come across research from Reading UK - I have heard about it but can't find it. They are mixing biochar with ramial woodchip from willow to help ash plantations survive the dieback and are finding good results. The principle would be the same - you want growth but also yield hence you need the P and K in reasonable (unscientific term!) amounts for fruit formation etc rather than just the N from grass breakdown.
That is very interesting Helena. I am going to try and find that research that Reading are carrying out. Thank you.
Any experience using comfrey around trees?
Hello. I did some research into green mulches and based on what I read, it looks like it doesn't correlate with improved yields.
Interesting stuff. Have you considered growing some giant mischanthus grass to use as a long lasting, low nitrogen mulch?
Hello Liam. I haven't and wasn't aware of that type of grass. Off to do some research on it. Thanks.
1:10 clean the radiator on the tractor!
Agreed. I need to buy an airline! All the best.
Ukraine is watching your farming
That is great to hear. Slava Ukraini!
@@GubbFarm Thank you Ireland for help ours mothers, children!
Serious grass growth on those fields. Would removing the fossil fuel mowing by inlosting the help of some herbivores be on the cards?
My original plan was to graze the orchard with cattle or sheep. However, health and safety guidance in the UK is not to graze animals in an orchard for 12 months before harvest to prevent pathogens, such as E. Coli in manure, from cross-contaminating the crop. As I'm harvesting every 12 months, I can't graze the orchard with livestock.
Regarding fossil fuels, another benefit of not repeatedly mowing throughout the year to reduce grass growth is a significant reduction in carbon emissions and related financial costs. I have some areas of the farm that I haven't mowed or grazed for several years and what we are starting to notice is that we are losing biodiversity in those areas, so some level of management is required as the grass over powers flowers and other plants.
@@GubbFarm interesting, never thought of that potential issue. Could the straights be baled? Or the bits in between the trees be grouped into the centre and then raked/tedded for silage or hay? Would be another income stream for you and mean that the mowing not just a single purpose job?
@@GubbFarm possibly reducing biodiversity now but leave some sections to see what happens. The biodiversity could return if conditions favorably change. I've noticed on our small bit of land in West Cavan that where some corners have been let go, the plants express themselves initially with flowers and uncommon plants coming through. But then what you get is gorse/whin and bryers taking over. And a server reduction in diversity. Maybe this is how a forest would retake land in this area of the country? Be interesting to see what happens after the gorse period.
@@44birdie44 That is a good point. I did think about it, but then I backed away from it because bailing the hay removes nutrients, which I would then have to add back in. As I'm trying to follow organic principles, it is quite tricky sourcing fertilisers. The other issue is that I have a lot of Rushes in the grass, so it is not of great quality. That being said the Rushes are reducing with mowing and will hopefully further reduce as the trees dry out the ground.
One of the consequences of mulching the grass is that you can see the richness in the soil build, with the grasses and wild flowers coming back stronger each year. I'm hoping that the fertility from mulching down the grass in autumn will in turn benefit the trees as soil fertility builds.
What is also interesting as well to observe, is that there is significantly increased plant diversity year on year in the orchard. This is either a result of mowing or the removal of livestock, or possibly both as I have wet ground that gets easily poached by the cattle. As a result, the orchard is alive with insects and this is important for pest control. For example, when harvesting the nuts this week, I was repeatedly brushing off Lady Birds, who in turn take care of Aphids.
I do find it very interesting trying to work out what actions create the best outcome and it is very unlikely that what I'm doing is right, but it does looks like it is going in the right direction.
Tolly has done some recent research on RWC, in vegetable growing. ua-cam.com/video/YhXBvPCIYZ4/v-deo.html
could growing rows of sallix between the nut trees be a solution? (mulching them insitu with the flail mower.)
I do find that idea very interesting, but I'm concerned that the situation would get out of control. Once the Sally trees get a root establish, even if you stub them, they will regrow. Also the spacing of the trees, is such that there won't be much room between them when they mature, so it will become difficult to cut or remove the Sally. That being said, it is an interesting idea.
Have a look at syntropic agriculture. No chemicals, uses the grass cuttings as mulch. Highly successful and low cost as you're avoiding inputs like herbicides and fertilizers. It sounds like several of your papers recognize the benefits of syntropic practices.
Hello Peter. I had a look at Syntropic agriculture, briefly. From memory, it appears to be based on the principal of succession. It is interesting, but I want to hold the land at a fix point, as opposed to letting it develop into a forest type set up. I couldn't see an application of it in my context, but it should be noted that I only watched a couple of videos on it about Ernst Götsch in Brazil. I would welcome thoughts on how you would implement it in my context. All the best.
@@GubbFarm You're transforming meadows into orchards (which really should be understood as woodlands), so while your goal may be to hold at a point, you're making the biggest transition - open grass to woodland trees. You would benefit from looking much further into syntropic agriculture. It's being used for annual vegetable production, without any intention of progressing on to food forest. It is absolutely applicable to your context.