Thanks for the video. It would be great if you could do a follow-up video that shows how the stitches lay in the varying hole types. I am looking for a straight line stitch (versus the slant that comes with the diamond) and think the lacing chisel may do the trick.
I am very new to leatherworking. i bought a stitching chisel from tandy leather, but I cannot get it to punch through the leather. I am placing the leather on a kitchen cutting board. Is there something I am missing?
How thick is the leather? The 6 prong chisel is hard to get through two layers of 8 oz leather and if you did it would be hard to get it out. Use the iron and then use an awl or single chisel to finish and use wax on your punching tools to expedite removal. He didn't mention wax for the tools. I use a three prong and have no issues nor with the 4 prong and because I make knife sheaths I have no use for 6 or 8 prong tools, they are too hard to get out and can bust my glue bond and make the layers go out of alignment.
Hi, I would like to ask some questions. I had a set of stitching chisel and I was very careful not to let it pierce my leather too much as I dont want to dull the blade. But the reality is that even I put a layer of scrap leather under my work piece, and I am careful not to pierce all the way through the scrap leather and hit the solid surface underneath, the tip of the stitching chisel still became dull a little bit. And I see that you hit the stitching chisel directly onto the wood underneath your leather, doesnt that dull the tip? So, it the tip getting dull unavoidable or just that I bought some low quality stitching chisel that gets dull pretty easily? Thank you.
Hey! Well, any blade will become dull over time, but the main advantage of a stitching chisel over the pricking iron is that the teeth are straight, making it easier to pierce the leather. The pricking iron has tapered teeth, wider at the handle and less wide at the tip. So far I have not had to sharpen my chisel yet (and it is not one of the top brands). But if you feel it is duller, sharpen it! Mark
Mark the braider An excellent reply, the shape of the teeth. At first, I was also wondering why not use the stitching punch just to mark instead of punching through in order to control the depth. On the other hand the pricking iron teeth tip can bend if we use to punch through (unless this is super good quality). So indeed both have their own specific use.
Why do you need to control the depth of the holes? It seems to me that you would want the holes to go all the way through the leather so your needle can go all the way through.
Good question! With a pricking iron you basically only mark the stitching. You do your actual piercing using an awl. This way you get just the right size of holes for stitching. This is the best way to do it, but it takes skill. With a stitching chisel on the other hand, you mark and pierce at the same time, which is a little less optimal, but also a bit quicker. Mark
There’s some pricking irons that can be punched all the way through the leather, such as KS blade, or sinabroks, but the older brands like Vergez Blanchard will break or bend if you punch all the way through the leather.
Hey! I picked this one up in a leatherworking shop. It is an interesting one, which allows you to secure the awl blade by screwing the awl together. So the blade can be switched for a shorter/longer one. So it is a fairly modern contraption, but it works well enough. Mark
I guess I got some other type of chisel then cause mine has three hollow tubes, that put a round hole in the leather when you bring the mallet down on it. Then you gotta remove the leather bits from the tubes, with a needle. Works, but kind of annoying...
The problem is with needing to go through 3 layers of 8 oz leather for a sheath... a major pain. The only way I have found is to, after using the stitching chisel to go through the top layer is to then use my drill press to create a stitching hole that goes through all 3 layers. The problem with that it is the resulting stitching hole is not as neat.
I haven't tried what you are doing for leather but I have used drill presses frequently - is the sloppy hole the result of the drill tearing out the leather as it exits ? if that is it maybe set your drill press depth gauge to stop the drill just before it pokes through - then use your chisel to punch through the last little skin of leather on the bottom - its triple handling but if it works there are not too many holes in sheathes.
I also use a drill press to go through 3 layers for making sheaths for milsurp bayonets. I use a throwing dart head wrapped in duct tape to punch through the layers for sewing. The tape prevents damaging the dart body. The dart pierces the leather and into a piece of wood with a small hole to keep it neat. This method keeps the holes at 90 degrees and prevents off kilter holes. The dart needle is made from harden steel to maintain a sharp point.
For European style pricking irons you need a flat bladed awl, not diamond awl. It works but will make a diamond whole instead of a European style hole. You might as well use a diamond style pricking iron set in that case.
I am a beginner, I use the second one (stitching chisel), but it damaged my work twice now, so much effort to get it out from the leather after knock it, also the thread don't go on one direction after stretching, it got a space inside to mess the thread direction, what you promise me? I did good on paper design, cut, dying,finishing But this chisel made me out of mood
It sounds like you are having trouble pulling the chisel out of the leather. Here are some things you can do to solve this: 1) Buy a well-polished chisel, with smoothly polished edges and faces on the chisel teeth. 2) If you can't do (1), then you can try polishing the teeth yourself. Just be careful not to change the teeth geometry. 3) Push your chisel into a block of wax before using it to make holes in the leather.
The video did its job! I learned very much. Thank you for posting this informative video!
thanx brother I enjoyed watching and altho I was semi understanding about each tool but after your video I'm educated better
Thanks for clearing that up for me! Great vid!!
You are making me so smart! :o) I would love to see a follow-up video on sharpening stitching chisels.
Thank you so much for the information, great video!
Great video, thanks.
Hi Mark. I've been following your 550 chord knotting videos for years, but I never knew you do leathercraft as well. Cool video!
A big help thanku very much
Thanks for the video. It would be great if you could do a follow-up video that shows how the stitches lay in the varying hole types. I am looking for a straight line stitch (versus the slant that comes with the diamond) and think the lacing chisel may do the trick.
Good info 👍
THANKS LEARNED A LOT TODAY
SIMPLE TO THE POINT
I thought I recognized that luxurious voice. I follow your paracord channel as well!
Hehe, never had it called that!
Welcome!
Thanks for this
Thanks for the video, even the workers at my local tandy shop could tell me the difference in these tools
ty good demo
Gracias señor
I am very new to leatherworking. i bought a stitching chisel from tandy leather, but I cannot get it to punch through the leather. I am placing the leather on a kitchen cutting board. Is there something I am missing?
How thick is the leather? The 6 prong chisel is hard to get through two layers of 8 oz leather and if you did it would be hard to get it out. Use the iron and then use an awl or single chisel to finish and use wax on your punching tools to expedite removal. He didn't mention wax for the tools. I use a three prong and have no issues nor with the 4 prong and because I make knife sheaths I have no use for 6 or 8 prong tools, they are too hard to get out and can bust my glue bond and make the layers go out of alignment.
Hi, I would like to ask some questions.
I had a set of stitching chisel and I was very careful not to let it pierce my leather too much as I dont want to dull the blade. But the reality is that even I put a layer of scrap leather under my work piece, and I am careful not to pierce all the way through the scrap leather and hit the solid surface underneath, the tip of the stitching chisel still became dull a little bit.
And I see that you hit the stitching chisel directly onto the wood underneath your leather, doesnt that dull the tip?
So, it the tip getting dull unavoidable or just that I bought some low quality stitching chisel that gets dull pretty easily?
Thank you.
Hey!
Well, any blade will become dull over time, but the main advantage of a stitching chisel over the pricking iron is that the teeth are straight, making it easier to pierce the leather. The pricking iron has tapered teeth, wider at the handle and less wide at the tip.
So far I have not had to sharpen my chisel yet (and it is not one of the top brands). But if you feel it is duller, sharpen it!
Mark
Mark the braider
An excellent reply, the shape of the teeth. At first, I was also wondering why not use the stitching punch just to mark instead of punching through in order to control the depth. On the other hand the pricking iron teeth tip can bend if we use to punch through (unless this is super good quality). So indeed both have their own specific use.
Why do you need to control the depth of the holes? It seems to me that you would want the holes to go all the way through the leather so your needle can go all the way through.
Good question!
With a pricking iron you basically only mark the stitching. You do your actual piercing using an awl. This way you get just the right size of holes for stitching. This is the best way to do it, but it takes skill.
With a stitching chisel on the other hand, you mark and pierce at the same time, which is a little less optimal, but also a bit quicker.
Mark
There’s some pricking irons that can be punched all the way through the leather, such as KS blade, or sinabroks, but the older brands like Vergez Blanchard will break or bend if you punch all the way through the leather.
@@keirambelli6394 Thanks!
Hey Mark! Thanks for the video. Where did you get your awl? It looks so nice
Hey!
I picked this one up in a leatherworking shop. It is an interesting one, which allows you to secure the awl blade by screwing the awl together. So the blade can be switched for a shorter/longer one. So it is a fairly modern contraption, but it works well enough.
Mark
Thanks bro
3:13 Awl in awl. Nice.
What is the brand of the stitching needle you're using?
Super
Are you mooving over to Leather tutorials from Paracord ? I will certainly be watching out for more . Your paracord tutorials were very helpfull.
Hey!
Not at all. This channel is features all sorts of braiding, from rope, leather, basket weaving and others.
Glad to have ya!
Mark
I guess I got some other type of chisel then cause mine has three hollow tubes, that put a round hole in the leather when you bring the mallet down on it. Then you gotta remove the leather bits from the tubes, with a needle.
Works, but kind of annoying...
The problem is with needing to go through 3 layers of 8 oz leather for a sheath... a major pain.
The only way I have found is to, after using the stitching chisel to go through the top layer is to then use my drill press to create a stitching hole that goes through all 3 layers. The problem with that it is the resulting stitching hole is not as neat.
Instead of a drill press, use an awl, with the blade lined up at the same angle as the slots made by the stitching chisel
I haven't tried what you are doing for leather but I have used drill presses frequently - is the sloppy hole the result of the drill tearing out the leather as it exits ? if that is it maybe set your drill press depth gauge to stop the drill just before it pokes through - then use your chisel to punch through the last little skin of leather on the bottom - its triple handling but if it works there are not too many holes in sheathes.
I also use a drill press to go through 3 layers for making sheaths for milsurp bayonets. I use a throwing dart head wrapped in duct tape to punch through the layers for sewing. The tape prevents damaging the dart body. The dart pierces the leather and into a piece of wood with a small hole to keep it neat. This method keeps the holes at 90 degrees and prevents off kilter holes. The dart needle is made from harden steel to maintain a sharp point.
Now a days Pricking Iron can also be used as stitching iron because they are sharp and with long teeth from 10 - 12mm. I'm not using an awl at all.
For European style pricking irons you need a flat bladed awl, not diamond awl. It works but will make a diamond whole instead of a European style hole. You might as well use a diamond style pricking iron set in that case.
I am a beginner, I use the second one (stitching chisel), but it damaged my work twice now, so much effort to get it out from the leather after knock it, also the thread don't go on one direction after stretching, it got a space inside to mess the thread direction, what you promise me? I did good on paper design, cut, dying,finishing
But this chisel made me out of mood
It sounds like you are having trouble pulling the chisel out of the leather. Here are some things you can do to solve this:
1) Buy a well-polished chisel, with smoothly polished edges and faces on the chisel teeth.
2) If you can't do (1), then you can try polishing the teeth yourself. Just be careful not to change the teeth geometry.
3) Push your chisel into a block of wax before using it to make holes in the leather.
@@dmjole thanks alot for your advice and time very helpful :)
Lacing Chisel is the best for stitching because you fit both needles at the same time, reducing time spent stitching by 66%.
But why my stitching chisel dont make a big hole...
How to keep from sticking yourself lol.