CopperCoat Antifouling Experience Part 4 of 5 | Sailing Britican
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- Опубліковано 20 гру 2024
- Our final CopperCoat update. Has our CopperCoat antifoul nightmare finally ended? Watch the video to find out. Since 2016 we’ve had CopperCoat problems. With two failed CopperCoat antifoul applications and two touch-up jobs, we thought there was no hope. In a last-ditch effort to find a resolution, the head of CopperCoat UK flew to Grenada. He came to oversee one final antifoul application.
If one of the owners of CopperCoat wasn’t able to get it to work then we could once and for all blame the product manufacturer rather than the boatyard application attempts. Watch the video to get the full start to finish story. And discover if we’re happy with the results or not.
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Thank you, thank you, thank you for this follow up video! You've convinced me to use copper coat on my own boat! I will be doing the labor myself to avoid the issues you had! Copper Coat was amazing for offering you the level of support the did! Hopefully they will continue to be the kind of company that stands behind their products!
CopperCoat is a great product as long as it's applied correctly. Thanks for the comments JJones :)
I am very pleased coppercoat stood by their product.
Me too!
I liked the product and really respect the company for working with you through this process.
Good to hear Andrew :)
The application appears to have sat out of the water to long after the initial application It cured and started to oxidize. Which is why the fresh sanded patches worked . There is a time limit from application to launch.
Wouldn't that mean you can't store the boat on land over the winter or that you have to sand it before launch if you store it long time on land?
@@skunkjobb Makes sense. Copper has better anti fouling properties than Copper Oxide.
Glad it finally worked. I have had my first year of similar product in salt water lake in Australia. Have been a bit slack in maintenance, shell does grow on the water line fairly quickly so it needs a little more attention. Below that I am really impressed. I glad you have finally got the system working would be interested in periodic updates. If you are willing to put in the work I believe it is a great product.
Hey Luke...yes, we do need to do another update. I suppose it's working so well that there is nothing more to talk about. We just hauled out a couple days ago and had no barnacles :) K.
Micron 99 with Cayane pepper and mildew X works the best in the Tropics .If you paid 15 k for a soda blast and did not apply inter protect 2000 epoxy Barrier coat you are going to get Blisters at any voids or chips. The copper coat is an epoxy base. The Copper coat was applied and the boat launches right away application. NOW IF YOU HAUL THE BOAT FOR STORM STORAGE YOU WILL HAVE TO SAND THE ENTIRE BOTTOM TO ACTIVATE A NEW LAYER
Interesting thoughts Frank. Thanks for sharing. K.
when you say "stripped back to fiberglass hull" don't you mean "to gelcoat" ?
Take all anti foul off so you’re left with the white hull.
I saw a yacht being copper coated in Chichester, by a local company. I'm sure they only applied three coats and I didn't seem them do a final rub down.
It's quite a finicky process. It will be interesting to find out what the result of that application on the boat in Chichester is like? Kim
@@Sailingbritican Unfortunately the boat was still out of the water when we went back in so I have no idea what happened to it. I also remember that the team carrying out the work seemed to have forgotten that there was a drop keel involved and just gave it a once over before they packed up!
I'm interested in how difficult it is to totally remove coppercoat as it is supposed to be very adhesive making it difficult to remove. The reason being a number of yachts have reported widespread osmosis forming under the coppercoat.
I don't really know William but that widespread osmosis sounds bad!
william i've done it and i can honestly say its one hell of a job, i had about 2000 tiny blisters in a layer of tissue just below the gel coat. it was a thick old layup from the seventies and only in the surface, i felt there was enough meat on the bone to proceed with a strip back and to dry the hull, i went through a couple of oval shaped cnc carbide burrs in a cordless drill the carbide cnc bits chomp through the epoxy and fibreglass and you need to be very careful with your cut depths.
i targeted the blisters cut out the wet material and once the worst was removed, proceeded to strip the 'unaffected' parts in between.
washed her down multiple times and left her to dry out, once hull moisture had come down and air humidity was at it lowest and because no laminate had been removed (only lightly roughed up on the surface) i proceeded to coat the hull in west epoxy and colloidal silica, sanded smooth and spot faired with west epoxy and the brown filler powder. once smooth i reapplied coppercoat. i launched and within a year had a couple of blisters form at the waterline where i should have gone abit higher. i hauled out and repeated along the waterline and so far so good.
you need time on your side for this sort of project... for most people its better to sell up, save up and buy a bigger vessel, spend any surplus on sails, rigging and flares, surveys, insurance etc...
see my other comment on application and should you proceed be warned your arms and back are going to be tested...
sitting on a stool under an upswept hull, sanding hardened epoxy with arms outstretched overhead is an absolute **** of a job...
i'll also add i think some people have used coppercoat to try and hide/slow osmosis in a bid to sell the "problem" to an unsuspecting buyer, abit like rusty cars in the 90's
i've be playing around with this stuff over the last two years and here is my general conclusion.
1) their thinning instructions are crap, thin at 10% minimum for uk climate
2) do not use their mohair rollers these cause a horrendous lumpy coat that wastes product, use foam rollers instead.
3) on the first coat you want to have a tiny amount on the foam roller just think of it like dampening the surface to darken it and nothing more i know it seems like its sliding and not sticking but just imagine your rolling a damp cloth over it initially before the real coating starts and really spread it out.
4) change the roller every 20 minutes.
5) do not even think about globbing on - see point 4
6) second, third and hopefully fourth coats, imagine your just laying a new layer on top, you need to just pass over it once, lay on a layer and move on, do not try to spread it out like house paint, just load a very small amount on the roller, lay it on and reload, lay it on and repeat etc. with a nice light touch
7) ensure there has been enough time for the previous coat to properly tack up, else it will be pulled off! this also happens when you try to spread it about too much.
8) do your rudder only first to make your you have practised all the above and refined your technique before doing the whole hull.
these are just my experiences applying it in uk summertime, i would strongly advise you to practice on your ruddef before commiting to the whole hull, i did a 27 footer on my own, its not easy you need more people, i think with 2 people continuosly rolling and one person mixing, keeping the copper in suspension and topping up roller trays it would be good for a 27ft.
make sure the leader shows everyone exactly what to do from the start.
thin, dampen, lay gently, repeat
Thank you for all the valuable information Lab Rat! Kim
Thanks for the interesting pointers! Just out of curiosity, how many rollers did you go through if you changed every 20mins?
@@gerrymataia7554 Hi, i cant remember exactly i just bought a bulk pack of about 20 or so, the ones with rounded corners 😉
its helpful if you use an egg timer to avoid the dreaded lumps, and do a test panel first to dial in the amount of alcohol thinners, i used my rudder...
I have been studying this product and can't wait to use it. Holly Crap all the bad I have read just makes me lose faith in the human race.
Where people get it wrong. Not talking about bad installations.
The copper coat is not a 100% no growth solution, Nothing is. How and why copper coats last so long?.. Because you effing maintain it. After install depending on the water you are in.. let's say the worst water for growth. You have to jump in and scrape down and brush off any growth maybe give light sand in the area of more growth. you have to do this every 3-6 months depending on your water..
Nothing stops growth, especially for 10 years. Copper Coat does not state their product will do this. It states everything I just told you. You will not need to put a new coat on for 10 years but you will need to still clean your bottom in the water..
The Good copper coat does for you, is if you clean every 3-6 months all the growth just comes off with some light scraping, but mostly stiff bottom sweep brush cleans it right up in 30-60 min. With the other stuff, you use you have to clean your bottom at the same schedule unless your lazy and you have to coat every 1-3 years. Copper coat same schedule but no coating for 10 plus years depending on water. Why is this so hard to understand for 99.9 percent of copper coat users.
All this is talked about and stated.. No not on the main marketing page or ads but on the website and in the instruction and maintenance guide. but everyone reads the marketing ad. " last for 10 pulse years. coat their boat and then scream WTF there are barnacles on my boat 6 months later this stuff is crap. Really it is the user did not read the instruction or product guide. I feel so bad for Copper coat all the bad reviews and it all is application or user error.
I have never used it. I will but I have not.
However. I have read the instruction and products guides in my studies on the product and I have a good understanding of what the product is, what the product does for the customer, how long it lasts, how to maintain the product. How to properly install the product. How not to complain, give bad reviews stomp on the company head, and spit in their eye, just because I am to lazy read the literature with the product and too lazy to jump in the water the clean the bottom twice or three times a year for the next ten years.
It's a great product Troy but it can be difficult to find the right people/team to put it on. K.
Would it not have just been cheaper to haul every 6 months and use standard antifoul ?
In hindsight, yes!
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Just another example of so called professionals not knowing what they're doing. If you want a job done properly do it yourself or micromanage the help that you employ.