Excellent!! In the past when I did DIY FG work I would always waste a lot of resin. Here's my notes: CSM 1oz = 3 oz per 1 sqft CSM 1.5oz = 4.5 oz per 1 sqft Wovenroven = 2 oz per 1 sqft Finish cloth = 1 oz per 1 sqft 1708 biaxal = 3 oz per 1 sqft
Hi Captain Joe! I love these videos! In one fell swoop you showed what 4 different properly wetted out fiberglass cloths should look like, how much difference in resin volume you might expect from different cloths and then you sprinkled in a plethora of miscellaneous additional tips and tricks that will make a huge difference at some point in my fiberglassing future! And to top it off your videos always inspire me to go work on my boat! You are amazing! Thanks again for making and sharing these videos! Take care and all the best from California!🧡
Great video, thanks. I’ve just finished a cockpit door rebuild and am now replacing the core material on a 28 x 38” hatch. I’d never have started these projects if it weren’t for the confidence and knowledge I attained watching your videos. Thanks so much!!
Me encanta tu vídeo te escribo de España estoy en una restauración de una Taylor 50 y me está ayudando mucho tus vídeos de las telas grosos gastó de consumó de resina y como aplicar relleno y gel coat muchas gracias y sobretodo me encanta poder escucharlo en español no se puede explicar mejor gracias por compartir tus trabajos
Wow, thanks! I'm glad to hear that the videos are helping with the restoration of your Taylor 50, and I appreciate you watching all of the way from Spain 🇪🇸!
Being a boat owner over here in the UK I am looking to do some gel coat repairs, the small scratches and dings don’t worry me too much but I have one largish spiders web type impact damage and also a few stress cracks on internal corners, I would love you to cover these types of typical repairs in a video if possible, your videos are always so well put together and narrated, thanks for taking the time to put these together
I'm glad to hear that you are enjoying the channel! I made a video about 2 months ago, titled how to fix gelcoat stress cracks. It should help answer your questions. Thanks for watching all of the way from the UK!
That was interesting Joe, that experiment works well in my head to figure out the volume of materiel that would be needed to do a project and the strength and thickness for the different parts of the boat in doing repair work verses an entire project such as your 29 ft boat. And a Diy would probably be doing a repair could figure out how much material to get without running out which would be inconvenient to have to get more material in the middle of a repair. l have been following you for about 6 months because l bought a boat that needs some work and wanted to make sure l would do it right. l have a 1987 22ft Aquasport Sandpiper and most of the work it needs is cosmetic. And it will be used to fish with for me and my buddy's and just want to make sure everything is work right and safe for going out on the ocean. Your channel has filled in the gaps to do my project and appreciate your experience in the work you do. So l will continue to watch, support and tell others what l have learned from you Thanks.
I weigh out my fabric prior to wet out. Equal weight resin would theoretically yield 50:50 which is a decent hand lam. But, I always add 5-10% in weight of resin. Haven’t had any problems. A log of which fabric and amounts gives me great estimate for future project needs. Cheers mate, keep your videos coming
Love these videos, absolutely valuable content, the only channel that not only shows you how to do the projects , but actually teaches the viewers the why it works in the different temps and conditions.
Joe thank you for your slow detailed description of your work. Been playing dealing with composites for 3o years plus years from models to all my race boats. It's a passion keep it up.
Well off to the shop, CSM laminate project, and well I was somewhat surprised, BUT NOT, you nailed it on the mixing ratio's. mine was a vacuum lay-up with epoxy, I did not add 20 percent, just keep it the same as the poly resin mix you showed. very happy with the end results. keep up the great video's. CSM was a powder binder, ordered from the UK shipping was $$$$$$
Very good! Vacuum lay-up is going to be more efficient than conventional hand lay-up, so you are right on point with resin consumption. Thanks for sharing your experience with the channel and for taking the time to watch and comment!
Loving your channel so far, learning a lot. Love the detail you put into your videos. I just bought a gheenoe that needs some work, i want to redo the transom and was wondering what materials you would suggest i use for this project. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Wow, thanks! A Gheenoe sounds like a great project boat! I have had very good success with a 26-pound density Coosa board for transom replacements. I also recommend vinyl ester resin from fiberglass warehouse for repairs like this. I recently put a coosa and vinyl ester resin transom in our project boat a few episodes back. As well as lots of videos on glass fabric selection, resin, and gelcoat. I would recommend building a foundation of knowledge of the world of fiberglass before jumping in, and the channel has all the info you need to restore your Gheenoe. Fiberglass warehouse also offers a discount code for fish bump tv viewers that will save you some money. Just be sure to mention that you like to watch our videos. I hope this helps,and I wish you all the best with your project!
Again, thank you for what you do. Absolutely excellent content on a subject that's not really talked about. Are these materials and processes compatible with Corvette bodies?
Glad to hear that you are enjoying the videos! I don't have any experience working with Corvettes, so it's hard for me to say for sure. Vinyl ester or epoxy based products are probably going to be your best bet.i hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
Wish I had seen this video earlier, just finished the floor and console structures on my boat. Fiberglass work in Tennessee in winter is a breeze if you're not in a hurry, you have an hour to work it, then kick the heaters on in the shop and call it a day. Poured foam today (Watched your video on that, went great, but if temp is barely below 70, expansion rate plummets. Ran heaters for 2 days and warmed compartments with a heat gun, accurate and thorough mixing, still struggled to get 22:1, 30:1 needs 80+ degrees.). I tried a shortcut and combined priming bare wood and csm base coat, you cant mix resin as fast as it soaks it up. 😂 The engineer in me would love to see a video on structure design. Cutting out and replacing stringers and bulkheads is easy enough. I struggle to visualize how that massive point force from the motor is distributed throughout the structure. The point where the stringers end and the front seat boxing begins looks like a major weak point in my bowrider, but it has lasted 30 years with rotten wood and soggy foam.
Thanks for watching and sharing your experiences with the channel! I will be getting back to work on our 21 Blazer project boat very soon, and maybe that will help answer some of your structural repair concerns.
Another good video Captain Joe. Appreciate the channel and the content. We certainly would not have embarked on our project of converting an inboard powered boat to building an extended bracket for twin outboards, transom build, new deck and pilot house build without your videos. Much appreciated!
Glad to hear that you are enjoying the videos! In my experience the 1708 is hard to beat when it comes to strength and all around workability. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
Great information. My current project is mechanical, doing the annual maintenance on my outboard. Plugs, fuel filter, oil filter, water separator, new motor oil, new lower unit oil and putting in a water pump kit. Drained my lower unit oil this morning and saw that I had water intrusion so I'll be changing the drive and prop shaft seals as well. When I pulled the lower unit I could see the fruits of my flushing regimen; very minimal corrosion and salt buildup (engine is a 2015 Yamaha VF250XA SHO). Keep the great videos coming!
Thanks for watching! Yep, it's important to take care of the mechanicals on your boats as well. I had a 2019 250 yamaha on my previous boat. It was a great engine, absolutely trouble free! I love the twin 150s on the new boat. It's pretty hard to beat a Yamaha!
Yall better keep that wet cold weather over there with y'all 🤣🤣🤣 Doin good there bubba. You know you got these people's brains twisted trying to keep up with all that experience. 🍻🍻🍻
@FishBumpTV you know what you should do... You should show these people the difference between fiberglass mat and carbon fiber mat with the pro's and cons
Thanks for this useful information, Joe. I usually end up with leftover resin in a cup or tray. I've been making waterproof louvre covers for my outdoor solar system. I'm also planning to make a waterproof top for it as well. The applications are virtually limitless. I've also tried my hand at resin casting.
Thanks! Iso resin is the best of the polyester resins. Vinyl ester resin is better than iso polyester. Epoxy is considered by many to be the best, but it can have compatability and cost disadvantages compared to polyester or vinyl ester. I hope this helps and I appreciate you watching!
I am repairing a 5.2 metre half cab boat which has had its transom rotted out. I have replaced the transom from the inside of the boat by removing the outboard well and will soon need to restore the outboard well.
That's a good question! I tend to stick with conventional fabrics that are designed for marine applications, so maybe you could do some experimenting to find out. I personally like to stay with proven materials and techniques for my projects. I hope this helps and I appreciate you watching!
I use a red dye that is made for this application, but it can be hard to get sometimes. I will try to find a source for it and put a link below our videos descriptions. Thanks for watching!
1st time, watched 2 videos, Subbed!! Interested in fixing some rotten areas on the walls of a 20 ft box truck I just bought. I was planning on cutting out the rotten areas and putting in new plywood and fiber glassing each side again. The side walls are 2 layers of fiberglass with 3/4 inch plywood in the middle. I am not worried if it''s not perfectly smooth - I just want it strong!
Thanks for subscribing, and welcome to the channel! That sounds like a pretty solid plan for your box truck repair. I have videos on fiberglassing over plywood, resin, and fiberglass fabric selection that should really help you. I have had really good success with the vinyl ester resin from fiberglass warehouse, and I like 1708 and 1 Oz csm fiberglass fabric for most of my repairs. Fiberglass warehouse offers a discount code for fish bump tv viewers, so be sure to mention that, and it will save you some money. I hope this helps, and I wish you all the best with your repair!
Yes, it should be pretty close. I always recommend buying a little more resin than you think you need, just in case. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
You wanna know what you can do to make the channel better? Let me borrow that 2900 mold 😂😂😂 but really I have about 5k rn there’s an 18 angler with a 2016 Suzuki that would get me on the water again right now and then I’d like to either buy someones project dusky or mako orrrr build the Bateau 19 classic… any input on this Mr Buskens what would you do if you did not have the boat shop but any hand tools you need basically and I was thinking about building a massive gantry or two.. there’s videos on yt on how to build them
Haha, I hear ya! It's good to have options, and it sounds like you have some! Time and money are always big factors, and everyone's goals are different, so it's hard to say what might be the best boat for you. I tend to weigh my options, do some research, then just go for it! I hope this helps and I appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment!
Can you laminate vinylester resin like polyester and not have to sand/agitate/or remove amine blush between layers/laminations a few days after the initial lamination?
Yes, vinyl ester behaves very much like polyester resin in that respect. I do recommend sanding vinyl ester and wiping down with acetone if it has cured for more than 4 or 5 days to help promote a good bond. I have several videos here on the channel that touch on the topic of resin selection and uses that you might find helpful. Thanks for watching!
Great video as always! I've heard of this 50/50-rule that you should use for example 300g of resin for a sqm of 300g/sqm cloth, no matter what type of cloth. Does that sound right? And sorry for the metrics... For my first project ever, which looks to be a hood for our open trailer to use for our son's gokart going to practice and competition. When on a budget I can easily find CSM and woven roven at our local hardware store (Biltema, for all Swedes out there), can I use these combined to get to something similar to the 1708? For example, 1 layer CSM, 1 layer WR, 1 layer WR 45 degrees rotated and 1 layer CSM again?
50/50 glass to resin would be near the highest possible ratio, 60 percent resin, 40 percent glass is probably closer to what most people can achieve, depending on the glass used. You could alternate the angles of the glass, but it's still not going to give you the exact same performance numbers as the 1708, but it certainly doesn't hurt. Vinyl ester or epoxy resin with a s glass 1708 fabric is going to give you very good performance to weight if you can get your hands on those materials. I hope this helps, and I appreciate you watching all of the way from Sweden 🇸🇪!
@@FishBumpTV Thanks for the great answer. If I were to build a boat to carry human lives I wouldn't go for the cheapest option but now I'm looking at a rain and wind cover for the trailer. I have a crazy idea of building a mold with a wooden frame covered with OSB or masonite, then add a layer of plastic film and maybe spray hair wax for release and then just build on the outside of the mold with polyester and fiberglass covered with polyester fairing and gelcoat. And when released paint the inside white with gelcoat. Do you, with your experience, think it will work?
Hey mate, what catalyst percentage would you use for polyester resin, temps here(nth qld Aus) are 30/35°c/86/95°f i think on average I've been having about 5/10 minutes at 1% Is that what I have to work with? Or not ideal to go lower Thank you for advice
You can go down to 3/4 percent mekp at the absolute lowest. That might help a bit, plus you can cool down the resin prier to use in a fridge or ice chest. You can also work very early or late in the day so your temps are down, and remember to never work in the direct sunlight unless it is cold weather. Also, be sure to use a pan or pour your resin out of the mixing cup, as soon as it's mixed. Staying in a mixing cup generates heat, and causes the resin to cure faster. I hope this helps and I appreciate you watching all of the way from Australia 🇦🇺!
@FishBumpTV thank you, I am working outside but under cover I had alot better luck today stuck to 1%, borrowing an industrial fan at work made a huge difference Appreciate you and your videos, guiding me through my restoration!
@ As a DIYer, do I need less Rowen for the same strength, like 4 layers of CSM is equivalent to 2 layers of Rowen? It seems like CSM uses up a lot of resin to no use. To my uneducated opininon, the more glassfiber/resin ratio the better.
Roven is stronger but doesn't bond as well to surfaces and is not as flexible or as good at conforming to surfaces as csm. They are designed to work together, like concrete and rebar. They both have a purpose. The 1708 blends the 2 concepts together. that is why I prefer it to Roven and csm. I have several videos on fiberglassing and fiberglass fabric selection here on the channel that will help clarify the best uses of the different materials. I hope this helps, and I appreciate you watching!
Your videos are excellent but I'm sure that your other non-American viewers would agree with me that it would be most helpful if you could just add the Metric measures at the bottom of the screen.
Glad you are enjoying the videos! I will try to incorporate that in the future, but just making the videos, editing, uploading, then converting to metric and then balancing that with my family and my actual full-time job can be a challenge sometimes. I hope you understand, and I appreciate you watching!
Hi Joe. You are the best instructor of videos available anywhere.
I would watch your videos, regardless of the subject! Your are just outstanding!!!
Wow, thank you so much for the kind words! That means a lot to me, and I really appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment!
Excellent!! In the past when I did DIY FG work I would always waste a lot of resin. Here's my notes:
CSM 1oz = 3 oz per 1 sqft
CSM 1.5oz = 4.5 oz per 1 sqft
Wovenroven = 2 oz per 1 sqft
Finish cloth = 1 oz per 1 sqft
1708 biaxal = 3 oz per 1 sqft
I'm glad you found the video helpful, and your notes are a great reference for everyone else! I wish you all the best with your future projects!
@ thank you very much. All the Beat in 2025!!
Hi Captain Joe!
I love these videos! In one fell swoop you showed what 4 different properly wetted out fiberglass cloths should look like, how much difference in resin volume you might expect from different cloths and then you sprinkled in a plethora of miscellaneous additional tips and tricks that will make a huge difference at some point in my fiberglassing future! And to top it off your videos always inspire me to go work on my boat! You are amazing! Thanks again for making and sharing these videos!
Take care and all the best from California!🧡
Wow, I really appreciate the kind words! Glad you're finding the videos helpful!
Great video, thanks. I’ve just finished a cockpit door rebuild and am now replacing the core material on a 28 x 38” hatch. I’d never have started these projects if it weren’t for the confidence and knowledge I attained watching your videos. Thanks so much!!
That is fantastic, I am glad you are finding the videos helpful with your door and hatch repairs! Thanks for watching and commenting!
capt Joe, as always on point! TY I'm always tuned in.
Awesome! Thank you for watching!
You’re the only person I have come across on Y.T that speaks about the engineering and science of fiberglass work.
Thanks for the compliment! I appreciate you watching!
Me encanta tu vídeo te escribo de España estoy en una restauración de una Taylor 50 y me está ayudando mucho tus vídeos de las telas grosos gastó de consumó de resina y como aplicar relleno y gel coat muchas gracias y sobretodo me encanta poder escucharlo en español no se puede explicar mejor gracias por compartir tus trabajos
Wow, thanks! I'm glad to hear that the videos are helping with the restoration of your Taylor 50, and I appreciate you watching all of the way from Spain 🇪🇸!
Being a boat owner over here in the UK I am looking to do some gel coat repairs, the small scratches and dings don’t worry me too much but I have one largish spiders web type impact damage and also a few stress cracks on internal corners, I would love you to cover these types of typical repairs in a video if possible, your videos are always so well put together and narrated, thanks for taking the time to put these together
The camera man is a professional. Great job
I'm glad to hear that you are enjoying the channel! I made a video about 2 months ago, titled how to fix gelcoat stress cracks. It should help answer your questions. Thanks for watching all of the way from the UK!
Currently working on the interior rebuild on my boat building new cabinets and seating with foam core to replace any timber
Interesting! Thanks for watching and sharing your experiences with everyone!
Better cameras, better lights and star to build a boat right now
Haha, I hear ya! Thanks for watching and commenting!
That was interesting Joe, that experiment works well in my head to figure out the volume of materiel that would be needed to do a project and the strength and thickness for the different parts of the boat in doing repair work verses an entire project such as your 29 ft boat. And a Diy would probably be doing a repair could figure out how much material to get without running out which would be inconvenient to have to get more material in the middle of a repair. l have been following you for about 6 months because l bought a boat that needs some work and wanted to make sure l would do it right. l have a 1987 22ft Aquasport Sandpiper and most of the work it needs is cosmetic. And it will be used to fish with for me and my buddy's and just want to make sure everything is work right and safe for going out on the ocean. Your channel has filled in the gaps to do my project and appreciate your experience in the work you do. So l will continue to watch, support and tell others what l have learned from you Thanks.
I'm glad you're finding the videos helpful as you work on your Aquasport. Thanks for watching!
I weigh out my fabric prior to wet out. Equal weight resin would theoretically yield 50:50 which is a decent hand lam. But, I always add 5-10% in weight of resin. Haven’t had any problems. A log of which fabric and amounts gives me great estimate for future project needs. Cheers mate, keep your videos coming
Thanks so much for sharing your experience with the channel and for taking the time to watch and comment!
Love these videos, absolutely valuable content, the only channel that not only shows you how to do the projects , but actually teaches the viewers the why it works in the different temps and conditions.
Wow, thanks so much! I'm glad to hear that you are really enjoying the videos!
Now that is a great comparison tutorial, awesome Joe! Albert 🇳🇱
Thanks so much, I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Joe thank you for your slow detailed description of your work. Been playing dealing with composites for 3o years plus years from models to all my race boats. It's a passion keep it up.
Thanks, I really appreciate it!
New to repair. Starting with dock rash, screw holes then hopefully graduating to a below waterline blister I have.
I'm happy to hear you are taking on some repairs. Dock rash and screw holes are a great place to start!
Well off to the shop, CSM laminate project, and well I was somewhat surprised, BUT NOT, you nailed it on the mixing ratio's. mine was a vacuum lay-up with epoxy, I
did not add 20 percent, just keep it the same as the poly resin mix you showed. very happy with the end results. keep up the great video's.
CSM was a powder binder, ordered from the UK shipping was $$$$$$
Very good! Vacuum lay-up is going to be more efficient than conventional hand lay-up, so you are right on point with resin consumption. Thanks for sharing your experience with the channel and for taking the time to watch and comment!
Great video! Having enough resin on hand, but not wasting too much has always been a concern for me. Thanks for the demo and info.
Thanks for watching! I am glad you found it helpful!
Loving your channel so far, learning a lot. Love the detail you put into your videos. I just bought a gheenoe that needs some work, i want to redo the transom and was wondering what materials you would suggest i use for this project. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Wow, thanks! A Gheenoe sounds like a great project boat! I have had very good success with a 26-pound density Coosa board for transom replacements. I also recommend vinyl ester resin from fiberglass warehouse for repairs like this. I recently put a coosa and vinyl ester resin transom in our project boat a few episodes back. As well as lots of videos on glass fabric selection, resin, and gelcoat. I would recommend building a foundation of knowledge of the world of fiberglass before jumping in, and the channel has all the info you need to restore your Gheenoe. Fiberglass warehouse also offers a discount code for fish bump tv viewers that will save you some money. Just be sure to mention that you like to watch our videos. I hope this helps,and I wish you all the best with your project!
Again, thank you for what you do. Absolutely excellent content on a subject that's not really talked about. Are these materials and processes compatible with Corvette bodies?
Glad to hear that you are enjoying the videos! I don't have any experience working with Corvettes, so it's hard for me to say for sure. Vinyl ester or epoxy based products are probably going to be your best bet.i hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
Wish I had seen this video earlier, just finished the floor and console structures on my boat. Fiberglass work in Tennessee in winter is a breeze if you're not in a hurry, you have an hour to work it, then kick the heaters on in the shop and call it a day. Poured foam today (Watched your video on that, went great, but if temp is barely below 70, expansion rate plummets. Ran heaters for 2 days and warmed compartments with a heat gun, accurate and thorough mixing, still struggled to get 22:1, 30:1 needs 80+ degrees.). I tried a shortcut and combined priming bare wood and csm base coat, you cant mix resin as fast as it soaks it up. 😂
The engineer in me would love to see a video on structure design. Cutting out and replacing stringers and bulkheads is easy enough. I struggle to visualize how that massive point force from the motor is distributed throughout the structure. The point where the stringers end and the front seat boxing begins looks like a major weak point in my bowrider, but it has lasted 30 years with rotten wood and soggy foam.
Thanks for watching and sharing your experiences with the channel! I will be getting back to work on our 21 Blazer project boat very soon, and maybe that will help answer some of your structural repair concerns.
Another good video Captain Joe. Appreciate the channel and the content. We certainly would not have embarked on our project of converting an inboard powered boat to building an extended bracket for twin outboards, transom build, new deck and pilot house build without your videos. Much appreciated!
Thanks, I'm glad you are finding the videos helpful and that you're enjoying your new boat project!
Great Video, Joe & Logan, Thank you. Question, If the same thickness of material for each was used, what glass would be the strongest.
Glad to hear that you are enjoying the videos! In my experience the 1708 is hard to beat when it comes to strength and all around workability. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
Great information. My current project is mechanical, doing the annual maintenance on my outboard. Plugs, fuel filter, oil filter, water separator, new motor oil, new lower unit oil and putting in a water pump kit. Drained my lower unit oil this morning and saw that I had water intrusion so I'll be changing the drive and prop shaft seals as well. When I pulled the lower unit I could see the fruits of my flushing regimen; very minimal corrosion and salt buildup (engine is a 2015 Yamaha VF250XA SHO). Keep the great videos coming!
Thanks for watching! Yep, it's important to take care of the mechanicals on your boats as well. I had a 2019 250 yamaha on my previous boat. It was a great engine, absolutely trouble free! I love the twin 150s on the new boat. It's pretty hard to beat a Yamaha!
Thanks a lot that’s the information i need for my repairs on a Boston whaler in The Gambia West Africa
Glad to help! Thanks for watching all of the way from West Africa!
Yall better keep that wet cold weather over there with y'all 🤣🤣🤣 Doin good there bubba. You know you got these people's brains twisted trying to keep up with all that experience. 🍻🍻🍻
Haha, I hear ya man! Thanks for watching and commenting!
@FishBumpTV you know what you should do... You should show these people the difference between fiberglass mat and carbon fiber mat with the pro's and cons
Very informative video. It sure gets costly whenever too much resin is left over.
Thank you! Yep, it's not good to waste your resin!
Thanks for this useful information, Joe. I usually end up with leftover resin in a cup or tray. I've been making waterproof louvre covers for my outdoor solar system. I'm also planning to make a waterproof top for it as well. The applications are virtually limitless. I've also tried my hand at resin casting.
That sounds like an interesting project! Thanks for sharing your experience with the channel and for watching!
Your videos are great! Easy to follow and to the point!
Wow, thanks! I really appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment!
You could be the school shop Teacher...Joe Buskin Shop Teacher. I like to always figure 10 percent over what you plan for.
Haha, I like it! Yep, 10 to 20 over is a pretty good idea. Thanks for watching!
Wow
Great information. I always seem to underestimate the amount of resin I need. Do you recommend the ISO TOOLIMG RESIN OVER THE STANDARD RESIN?
Thanks! Iso resin is the best of the polyester resins. Vinyl ester resin is better than iso polyester. Epoxy is considered by many to be the best, but it can have compatability and cost disadvantages compared to polyester or vinyl ester. I hope this helps and I appreciate you watching!
Thanks Joe, your videos are outstanding as usual… cheers Josh ( Australia )
I appreciate the kind words! Thanks for watching from Australia 🇦🇺!
I am repairing a 5.2 metre half cab boat which has had its transom rotted out. I have replaced the transom from the inside of the boat by removing the outboard well and will soon need to restore the outboard well.
Thanks for sharing your project and the details about the transom, I hope this video helps you figure out how much resin you need for your repair!
@@FishBumpTV Your videos are a great source of information for those who are repairing their boats.
Can others fabric be used with fiberglass products such as trampling mats
That's a good question! I tend to stick with conventional fabrics that are designed for marine applications, so maybe you could do some experimenting to find out. I personally like to stay with proven materials and techniques for my projects. I hope this helps and I appreciate you watching!
Very interesting, thanks.
You're welcome, I'm glad you found it helpful!
Great way to get a rough figure for resin. What do you use to turn the catalyst red?
I use a red dye that is made for this application, but it can be hard to get sometimes. I will try to find a source for it and put a link below our videos descriptions. Thanks for watching!
1st time, watched 2 videos, Subbed!! Interested in fixing some rotten areas on the walls of a 20 ft box truck I just bought. I was planning on cutting out the rotten areas and putting in new plywood and fiber glassing each side again. The side walls are 2 layers of fiberglass with 3/4 inch plywood in the middle. I am not worried if it''s not perfectly smooth - I just want it strong!
Thanks for subscribing, and welcome to the channel! That sounds like a pretty solid plan for your box truck repair. I have videos on fiberglassing over plywood, resin, and fiberglass fabric selection that should really help you. I have had really good success with the vinyl ester resin from fiberglass warehouse, and I like 1708 and 1 Oz csm fiberglass fabric for most of my repairs. Fiberglass warehouse offers a discount code for fish bump tv viewers, so be sure to mention that, and it will save you some money. I hope this helps, and I wish you all the best with your repair!
Would it be possible to make a mold out of a sheet plastic
I would imagine it could, in theory, but I have never tried it. Might have to do a little testing on that one. Thanks for watching!
@ yes need to do some testing and your information is really instructive thank you so much
Cool video capt. Do you think the calculations are proportional? Meaning if the mat is twice as big would you use twice the resin?
Yes, it should be pretty close. I always recommend buying a little more resin than you think you need, just in case. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
You wanna know what you can do to make the channel better? Let me borrow that 2900 mold 😂😂😂 but really I have about 5k rn there’s an 18 angler with a 2016 Suzuki that would get me on the water again right now and then I’d like to either buy someones project dusky or mako orrrr build the Bateau 19 classic… any input on this Mr Buskens what would you do if you did not have the boat shop but any hand tools you need basically and I was thinking about building a massive gantry or two.. there’s videos on yt on how to build them
Haha, I hear ya! It's good to have options, and it sounds like you have some! Time and money are always big factors, and everyone's goals are different, so it's hard to say what might be the best boat for you. I tend to weigh my options, do some research, then just go for it! I hope this helps and I appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment!
Can you laminate vinylester resin like polyester and not have to sand/agitate/or remove amine blush between layers/laminations a few days after the initial lamination?
Yes, vinyl ester behaves very much like polyester resin in that respect. I do recommend sanding vinyl ester and wiping down with acetone if it has cured for more than 4 or 5 days to help promote a good bond. I have several videos here on the channel that touch on the topic of resin selection and uses that you might find helpful. Thanks for watching!
Great video as always! I've heard of this 50/50-rule that you should use for example 300g of resin for a sqm of 300g/sqm cloth, no matter what type of cloth. Does that sound right? And sorry for the metrics... For my first project ever, which looks to be a hood for our open trailer to use for our son's gokart going to practice and competition. When on a budget I can easily find CSM and woven roven at our local hardware store (Biltema, for all Swedes out there), can I use these combined to get to something similar to the 1708? For example, 1 layer CSM, 1 layer WR, 1 layer WR 45 degrees rotated and 1 layer CSM again?
50/50 glass to resin would be near the highest possible ratio, 60 percent resin, 40 percent glass is probably closer to what most people can achieve, depending on the glass used. You could alternate the angles of the glass, but it's still not going to give you the exact same performance numbers as the 1708, but it certainly doesn't hurt. Vinyl ester or epoxy resin with a s glass 1708 fabric is going to give you very good performance to weight if you can get your hands on those materials. I hope this helps, and I appreciate you watching all of the way from Sweden 🇸🇪!
@@FishBumpTV Thanks for the great answer. If I were to build a boat to carry human lives I wouldn't go for the cheapest option but now I'm looking at a rain and wind cover for the trailer. I have a crazy idea of building a mold with a wooden frame covered with OSB or masonite, then add a layer of plastic film and maybe spray hair wax for release and then just build on the outside of the mold with polyester and fiberglass covered with polyester fairing and gelcoat. And when released paint the inside white with gelcoat. Do you, with your experience, think it will work?
Hey mate, what catalyst percentage would you use for polyester resin, temps here(nth qld Aus) are 30/35°c/86/95°f i think on average
I've been having about 5/10 minutes at 1%
Is that what I have to work with? Or not ideal to go lower
Thank you for advice
You can go down to 3/4 percent mekp at the absolute lowest. That might help a bit, plus you can cool down the resin prier to use in a fridge or ice chest. You can also work very early or late in the day so your temps are down, and remember to never work in the direct sunlight unless it is cold weather. Also, be sure to use a pan or pour your resin out of the mixing cup, as soon as it's mixed. Staying in a mixing cup generates heat, and causes the resin to cure faster. I hope this helps and I appreciate you watching all of the way from Australia 🇦🇺!
@FishBumpTV thank you, I am working outside but under cover
I had alot better luck today stuck to 1%, borrowing an industrial fan at work made a huge difference
Appreciate you and your videos, guiding me through my restoration!
👍👍👍
Thanks so much!!!
Why use CSM when Rowen is so much better?
1 reason is cost. CSM is cheap. And in a production setting you'll end up using a chopper gun for speed and efficiency.
@ As a DIYer, do I need less Rowen for the same strength, like 4 layers of CSM is equivalent to 2 layers of Rowen? It seems like CSM uses up a lot of resin to no use. To my uneducated opininon, the more glassfiber/resin ratio the better.
Roven is stronger but doesn't bond as well to surfaces and is not as flexible or as good at conforming to surfaces as csm. They are designed to work together, like concrete and rebar. They both have a purpose. The 1708 blends the 2 concepts together. that is why I prefer it to Roven and csm. I have several videos on fiberglassing and fiberglass fabric selection here on the channel that will help clarify the best uses of the different materials. I hope this helps, and I appreciate you watching!
Your videos are excellent but I'm sure that your other non-American viewers would agree with me that it would be most helpful if you could just add the Metric measures at the bottom of the screen.
Glad you are enjoying the videos! I will try to incorporate that in the future, but just making the videos, editing, uploading, then converting to metric and then balancing that with my family and my actual full-time job can be a challenge sometimes. I hope you understand, and I appreciate you watching!