@@JimLangley1 Jim I got a 650 rim and one spoke has pulled through the rim and has cracked the spoke hole I was wondering if a spoke washer would prolong the life of my rim or is my rim toast the rim I believe is aluminum thanks Jim
@@jimcarroll2932 thanks for watching and the question, Jim. That should buy you some more time even if you can’t get the wheel perfectly true. But, I would go around the wheel and inspect around every hole to make sure others aren’t cracking too. Often, if one cracks, the rest start cracking too. If that’s the case you could try washers all around. But keep in mind that cracks do weaken the rim itself and they usually worsen. So consider replacing the rim. Hope this is helpful and thanks again!
If you click this link it'll take you to my lacing video where I use a special tool to pick up spoke nipples for putting them into the rim: ua-cam.com/video/LRS2_Tx8fU4/v-deo.html I don't show nipple washers in the video, but it's this step where you would put the washer on to the nipple. The tool holds the nipple and you would put the washer onto the nipple. Then you would only hold the tool horizontally or else the washer would fall off. When you put the nipple with the washer on it onto the spoke as you lace the wheel, you always hold the wheel flat and make sure that the tool and nipple are always in a position where gravity keeps the washer on the spoke nipple. As long as you do that, the washer won't be able to fall off the nipple and into the rim. The other way to do it, is to stick the threaded end of a spoke up through the hole in the rim. Just a piece of a spoke will work, too. You then have a "feeder" spoke sticking up through the hole. You then place the washer on that feeder spoke and thread the nipple onto the end of that spoke. Now, you pull the nipple down into the rim which will press the washer down and the nipple will be in place in the rim, too. At this point, you need to put another tool in from above to hold the nipple in place, like another piece of a spoke or the tool I show in the video. Once you're holding the nipple in place from above in the rim, it can't fall out and let the washer fall off. So then you can unscrew the lower feeder spoke and finally install the spoke in the hub to the nipple with the nipple washer. I know this sounds complicated but it's not really and it's worth it to take these steps so you don't lose washers in the rim and have to struggle getting them out. Hope this explains. Let me know if you have any questions. I'll add this to my video to make list but I can't get to it for awhile.
Enjoy your videos was wondering where I could find a 650x23 24 hole rim there used ones on e bay but I would like new if there available or are they obsolete thanks Jim
Thanks for watching, Jim! I did a little googling and it looks like 650 x 23 rims are still available from some online bike stores but I couldn't find one in 24-hole drilling, just 32-hole. It might be that the makers don't have the demand anymore to make the rims in a lot of different drillings. If you can't find a new one your best bet may be to go with the used ones you're finding. As long as a used rim hasn't been abused it should build into a reliable wheel. Sorry I can't point you to a new one.
Thanks for watching and the question, VentoGreg. The washers in the video that we use are stainless-steel, but they're proprietary and just for our production. The one source of nipple washers I could find, which is Sapim: www.sapim.be/tools/washers However, they do not say what material theirs are. I would think they'd be stainless to avoid any corrosion issues, but they don't confirm that on their site. You could contact Sapim and ask. Here's a list of their distributors worldwide: www.sapim.be/node/31 . Usually if you call and ask for technical help, they'll put someone on the phone who can help.
My first attempt at wheel building today failed because the spokes I ordered were too long. I had the old spokes, so this should have been straight forward. However the new spokes were approximately 3mm too long and remained slack. On the positive side I mastered the technique pretty fast. How would you measure a straight pull spoke, Jim? Laurence
Sorry to hear it Laurence. Measuring can be tricky. You measure all spokes along the straight length. So for J bends you hang the elbow on the spoke ruler and on straight/direct pulls you rest the head of the spoke on the end of the ruler. In other words you only measure the part of the spoke protruding from the hub hole not the part in the hole. I always use a spoke ruler like Park Tool’s amzn.to/4e8kiSq Hope this helps.
Used rim washers on rear carbon fiber wheel. But I did not use rim washers on the front cf wheel. More spoke tension on rear wheel…..where washers may help IMHO.
Here's my request for a video. Not sure how you would approach it, but working on lower quality rims. First, how do you know the difference, and then what do you do with nipples that seem stuck. And how do you decide when a rim isn't worth working on. I ask not as a hobbyist, but as a semi pro, trying to not waste time in the shop. Maybe what is the price range for junk, vs descent, vs great hoops. Not just for racing, but super strong for loaded touring. Kind of a long question but that's where I'm at. Love your videos.
Thanks for watching and the video request, Peter. I'll think about how I could cover some of those topics in a video. A tip for frozen, stuck or rounded nipples that won't come loose is to try heating them with a heat gun or even a torch but never on carbon rims, just aluminum and steel rims. If you're lucky the heat will break the corrosion. You can also cut the spokes but if a few nipples are frozen it's best to loosen all the rest of the spokes first so that you don't risk damaging the hub cutting fully tensioned spokes. Regarding rims, I would say that it's a matter of doing the research so that as a wheel builder you are certain that you know which rims are best for which types of riding and riders. This means building enough wheels with the rims you think are best to be sure they really are. You can also talk to other wheel builders to find what's working best for them. It's not so much about the price of rims but about the quality and consistency of manufacturing. It's always the same with rims though. What you want is something with the ride quality desired and that also stays true and round over the long haul. This holds true for whatever riding you do. Commuters, tourists, gravel, MTB, road, ever cyclist needs the same from their wheels pretty much. I hope this is helpful and thanks again for the comment and request!
@@JimLangley1 thanks. I maintain a few hundred rental bikes, and I'm always trying to get them close to perfect, but wheels and now disc brakes are the most difficult aspects. And I imagine local bike shops are most challenged by those repairs as well. The question of when to repair and when not to isn't simple. To me anyway. Thanks again.
@@peterschoen841 wow, that's quite a responsibility, Peter, sort of like a team mechanic but instead of 20 bikes you have a fleet of hundreds to maintain! Maybe though you get to work with similar or the same rims and brakes on some of the hundred. If so you would become expert at how things hold up, typical problems and how to repair them and know what spare parts to always keep on hand. Rims usually last a long, long time and even longer with disc brakes. But I can see how rental bikes could take a beating and I would expect you would replace rims that got abused and bent or crashed but keep anything that was round and true enough to still ride well going. I never maintained a fleet of rental bikes. I worked as a shop mechanic and would work on hundreds of bikes every season. Some were the same model but a lot were not. Have fun keeping all those bikes rolling!
Thanks a lot for watching and the video suggestion, Andrew. When I need to build a straight-pull hub I use this app: spokecalc.io/hub-measurements.php I think you'll like it.
@@andrewbray2924 I forgot to mention that I have another video about how to calculate/find spoke lengths. I only focus on J-bend spokes and hubs but I do go over rim measurements and provide links to online tools for finding spoke lengths, too. Here's a link: ua-cam.com/video/LvV4FE2VxZk/v-deo.html
Thanks for sharing Jim. It's always super nice to see you share your knowledge and experience. On a side note last week I rode my bike to work. I'm off of PT and back to doing most my normal stuff!
Thanks for watching and the great comment and congratulations on getting off of PT and back to your normal life, Locks - great to hear that you're all healed up!
@@LocksRocks I believe it, Locks.. that was an awful accident and difficult recovery. I've had bike crashes but never anything as bad as yours. Enjoy your health and watch out on the roads! See you down at Praxis one of these days.
@@JimLangley1 Thanks Jim! And you 've had your share of crashes too! I definitely remember the stories you've told. I'm looking forward to the next time you're in, always very nice to see and talk with you.
Thanks for watching and the great comment Uday! You reminded me that there is a Table Tennis clip in this video of me - you might get a kick out of it ua-cam.com/video/VYmgZSJlDDs/v-deo.html
That "two spokes crossed" technique is a great idea.
Thanks a lot, Jim, I'm happy you like it!
It seems so obvious! But I never would have thought of it 😂 Nice job buddy 👍
@@doncarleone973 Thanks a lot, Don - appreciate you watching and the great comment!
@@JimLangley1 Jim I got a 650 rim and one spoke has pulled through the rim and has cracked the spoke hole I was wondering if a spoke washer would prolong the life of my rim or is my rim toast the rim I believe is aluminum thanks Jim
@@jimcarroll2932 thanks for watching and the question, Jim. That should buy you some more time even if you can’t get the wheel perfectly true. But, I would go around the wheel and inspect around every hole to make sure others aren’t cracking too. Often, if one cracks, the rest start cracking too. If that’s the case you could try washers all around. But keep in mind that cracks do weaken the rim itself and they usually worsen. So consider replacing the rim. Hope this is helpful and thanks again!
Have a video mountig the spokes wit washers on a rim?
If you click this link it'll take you to my lacing video where I use a special tool to pick up spoke nipples for putting them into the rim: ua-cam.com/video/LRS2_Tx8fU4/v-deo.html I don't show nipple washers in the video, but it's this step where you would put the washer on to the nipple. The tool holds the nipple and you would put the washer onto the nipple. Then you would only hold the tool horizontally or else the washer would fall off. When you put the nipple with the washer on it onto the spoke as you lace the wheel, you always hold the wheel flat and make sure that the tool and nipple are always in a position where gravity keeps the washer on the spoke nipple. As long as you do that, the washer won't be able to fall off the nipple and into the rim. The other way to do it, is to stick the threaded end of a spoke up through the hole in the rim. Just a piece of a spoke will work, too. You then have a "feeder" spoke sticking up through the hole. You then place the washer on that feeder spoke and thread the nipple onto the end of that spoke. Now, you pull the nipple down into the rim which will press the washer down and the nipple will be in place in the rim, too. At this point, you need to put another tool in from above to hold the nipple in place, like another piece of a spoke or the tool I show in the video. Once you're holding the nipple in place from above in the rim, it can't fall out and let the washer fall off. So then you can unscrew the lower feeder spoke and finally install the spoke in the hub to the nipple with the nipple washer. I know this sounds complicated but it's not really and it's worth it to take these steps so you don't lose washers in the rim and have to struggle getting them out. Hope this explains. Let me know if you have any questions. I'll add this to my video to make list but I can't get to it for awhile.
Enjoy your videos was wondering where I could find a 650x23 24 hole rim there used ones on e bay but I would like new if there available or are they obsolete thanks Jim
Thanks for watching, Jim! I did a little googling and it looks like 650 x 23 rims are still available from some online bike stores but I couldn't find one in 24-hole drilling, just 32-hole. It might be that the makers don't have the demand anymore to make the rims in a lot of different drillings. If you can't find a new one your best bet may be to go with the used ones you're finding. As long as a used rim hasn't been abused it should build into a reliable wheel. Sorry I can't point you to a new one.
@@JimLangley1 thank you much appreciated
@Jim Langley What material are the nipple washers made of? Brass? Steel? Aluminum?
Thanks for watching and the question, VentoGreg. The washers in the video that we use are stainless-steel, but they're proprietary and just for our production. The one source of nipple washers I could find, which is Sapim: www.sapim.be/tools/washers However, they do not say what material theirs are. I would think they'd be stainless to avoid any corrosion issues, but they don't confirm that on their site. You could contact Sapim and ask. Here's a list of their distributors worldwide: www.sapim.be/node/31 . Usually if you call and ask for technical help, they'll put someone on the phone who can help.
My first attempt at wheel building today failed because the spokes I ordered were too long. I had the old spokes, so this should have been straight forward. However the new spokes were approximately 3mm too long and remained slack. On the positive side I mastered the technique pretty fast. How would you measure a straight pull spoke, Jim? Laurence
Sorry to hear it Laurence. Measuring can be tricky. You measure all spokes along the straight length. So for J bends you hang the elbow on the spoke ruler and on straight/direct pulls you rest the head of the spoke on the end of the ruler. In other words you only measure the part of the spoke protruding from the hub hole not the part in the hole. I always use a spoke ruler like Park Tool’s amzn.to/4e8kiSq Hope this helps.
@@JimLangley1 thanks, Jim!
Thank you very useful data,
You're welcome, bola, thank you for watching!
Used rim washers on rear carbon fiber wheel. But I did not use rim washers on the front cf wheel. More spoke tension on rear wheel…..where washers may help IMHO.
Thanks, Graydon, that’s an excellent use of rim washers. Appreciate you sharing.
Here's my request for a video. Not sure how you would approach it, but working on lower quality rims. First, how do you know the difference, and then what do you do with nipples that seem stuck. And how do you decide when a rim isn't worth working on. I ask not as a hobbyist, but as a semi pro, trying to not waste time in the shop. Maybe what is the price range for junk, vs descent, vs great hoops. Not just for racing, but super strong for loaded touring. Kind of a long question but that's where I'm at. Love your videos.
Thanks for watching and the video request, Peter. I'll think about how I could cover some of those topics in a video. A tip for frozen, stuck or rounded nipples that won't come loose is to try heating them with a heat gun or even a torch but never on carbon rims, just aluminum and steel rims. If you're lucky the heat will break the corrosion. You can also cut the spokes but if a few nipples are frozen it's best to loosen all the rest of the spokes first so that you don't risk damaging the hub cutting fully tensioned spokes.
Regarding rims, I would say that it's a matter of doing the research so that as a wheel builder you are certain that you know which rims are best for which types of riding and riders. This means building enough wheels with the rims you think are best to be sure they really are. You can also talk to other wheel builders to find what's working best for them. It's not so much about the price of rims but about the quality and consistency of manufacturing. It's always the same with rims though. What you want is something with the ride quality desired and that also stays true and round over the long haul. This holds true for whatever riding you do. Commuters, tourists, gravel, MTB, road, ever cyclist needs the same from their wheels pretty much. I hope this is helpful and thanks again for the comment and request!
@@JimLangley1 thanks. I maintain a few hundred rental bikes, and I'm always trying to get them close to perfect, but wheels and now disc brakes are the most difficult aspects. And I imagine local bike shops are most challenged by those repairs as well. The question of when to repair and when not to isn't simple. To me anyway. Thanks again.
@@peterschoen841 wow, that's quite a responsibility, Peter, sort of like a team mechanic but instead of 20 bikes you have a fleet of hundreds to maintain! Maybe though you get to work with similar or the same rims and brakes on some of the hundred. If so you would become expert at how things hold up, typical problems and how to repair them and know what spare parts to always keep on hand.
Rims usually last a long, long time and even longer with disc brakes. But I can see how rental bikes could take a beating and I would expect you would replace rims that got abused and bent or crashed but keep anything that was round and true enough to still ride well going. I never maintained a fleet of rental bikes. I worked as a shop mechanic and would work on hundreds of bikes every season. Some were the same model but a lot were not. Have fun keeping all those bikes rolling!
Love the videos. Maybe one one measuring straight pull hubs?
Thanks a lot for watching and the video suggestion, Andrew. When I need to build a straight-pull hub I use this app: spokecalc.io/hub-measurements.php I think you'll like it.
@@JimLangley1 Thank you! i'll check it out
@@andrewbray2924 I forgot to mention that I have another video about how to calculate/find spoke lengths. I only focus on J-bend spokes and hubs but I do go over rim measurements and provide links to online tools for finding spoke lengths, too. Here's a link: ua-cam.com/video/LvV4FE2VxZk/v-deo.html
Thanks for sharing Jim. It's always super nice to see you share your knowledge and experience. On a side note last week I rode my bike to work. I'm off of PT and back to doing most my normal stuff!
Thanks for watching and the great comment and congratulations on getting off of PT and back to your normal life, Locks - great to hear that you're all healed up!
@@JimLangley1 Thanks. I'm super happy about it. It's been a big boost to my mental.
@@LocksRocks I believe it, Locks.. that was an awful accident and difficult recovery. I've had bike crashes but never anything as bad as yours. Enjoy your health and watch out on the roads! See you down at Praxis one of these days.
@@JimLangley1 Thanks Jim! And you 've had your share of crashes too! I definitely remember the stories you've told. I'm looking forward to the next time you're in, always very nice to see and talk with you.
Hi there, Jim 👋. Great video. It will be nice to see your Table Tennis coaching videos too 🙂👏!
Thanks for watching and the great comment Uday! You reminded me that there is a Table Tennis clip in this video of me - you might get a kick out of it ua-cam.com/video/VYmgZSJlDDs/v-deo.html
Great! Will watch it.