Really nices pieces ! Cypress is a bit on the soft side for knife handle, but you can still use it for a light tasks knives Also please use a push stick when using the saw, don't get hurt What is the machine you used to flattent the pieces, how much does it costs and how thin/flat are the boards when they come out of it ?
Thanks, I got a lot more nice peices than I thought out of the lot. Especially the silky oak. I wasn't sure how much I would get from the doors but I was able to get a lot. The machine I used was a Ryobi thicknesser/planer cost 579 AUD at bunnings here in Australia. The saws and thicknesser aren't mine they are all my dads. He dabbles in a bit of wood work. Although I might have to chip in (get it) for some new blades for it as the Jarrah is very hard on them. You just turn the nob on the top of the machine and it goes up/down. You just do a little bit at a time until you get everything flat or you get to your desired thickness. The flooring started out at 19mm thick and I thinned it down to about 13mm. Thick enough that if it warps I can still lap it flat and use it for a machete handle or contoured knife handle. I can also thin it out more in the future for most other builds. Not with the machine though they are too small now. The idea was to get a heap of work done in one go so I didn't have to make scales from scratch every project. As for the push stick. I usually use one when it gets less than 2inch/50mm wide. Any less and I don't feel comfortable with how close my fingers are to the blade. I had footage of me using it but I only put a small amount of footage in. The sun kept coming out and it was way brighter than I expected so it wasn't the best for viewing. The table saw still makes me nervous (something about a sharp fast spinning blade sticking out of a table gets me, not sure why), so I am pretty careful. Thanks for the feed back on the cypress pine. I thought it might be soft. I am still going to play with it and I wouldn't sell a knife with that on the handle. But I have some fun projects in mind it may be suitable for.
@@scottshobbyz5416 you can always find a good use for nice pieces of wood You can also look for roots, sometimes they are great because the grain is a bit hasardous Why can't you use the machine to thin thes scales down later ? Maybe I'll buy a cheap one once I get a bandsaw
The thicknessers can be a bit rough on the out side edges. A lot of people glue some pine as a sacrificial edge onto their work. Also you need to help it through so such little peices are a pain in that type of machine. But I have some other methods to try out. With hand tools and power tools. Honestly if you get a bandsaw you won't need a thicknesser. Well not for knife handles. Wood work projects are a different thing. If you want to do wood handled for a long time a wood bandsaw may be beneficial. They are cheaper than metal cutting ones. I eventually want to use micarta and g10 and other stuff. So I would prefer a metal cutting one. But I am not in a rush. I am not anywhere near as efficient as I could be with what tools I have.
@@scottshobbyz5416 wood bandsaw should be strong enough the cut micarta, maybe even pins with the right saw I'd like to have a bandsaw to cut in half wood pieces that are too thick, but I don't have any effecient way to flatten them after that, what would you advise me ?
Nice mate! I have an old school timber yard near my place that sells all sorts of random bits of timber. I got a few nice jarrah fence pickets that i used for scales.
wow thanks. No I don't sell any yet I am still an absolute novice. There are loads of mistakes on them still. Maybe one day. For now I am just having fun learning the process of making them.
Hey 👋 Scott
Nice machines! Great amount of wood for scales. Have fun workin it away. Thank you for sharing. Greetings from Germany 🇩🇪
Cheers will do. The machines aren't mine. Luckily I can use dads shed and tools. No room where i am.
i like figured blackwood or bull-oak (hard to get) for knife scales, burl is really nice but pricey.
Really nices pieces ! Cypress is a bit on the soft side for knife handle, but you can still use it for a light tasks knives
Also please use a push stick when using the saw, don't get hurt
What is the machine you used to flattent the pieces, how much does it costs and how thin/flat are the boards when they come out of it ?
Thanks, I got a lot more nice peices than I thought out of the lot. Especially the silky oak. I wasn't sure how much I would get from the doors but I was able to get a lot.
The machine I used was a Ryobi thicknesser/planer cost 579 AUD at bunnings here in Australia. The saws and thicknesser aren't mine they are all my dads. He dabbles in a bit of wood work. Although I might have to chip in (get it) for some new blades for it as the Jarrah is very hard on them. You just turn the nob on the top of the machine and it goes up/down. You just do a little bit at a time until you get everything flat or you get to your desired thickness.
The flooring started out at 19mm thick and I thinned it down to about 13mm. Thick enough that if it warps I can still lap it flat and use it for a machete handle or contoured knife handle. I can also thin it out more in the future for most other builds. Not with the machine though they are too small now. The idea was to get a heap of work done in one go so I didn't have to make scales from scratch every project.
As for the push stick. I usually use one when it gets less than 2inch/50mm wide. Any less and I don't feel comfortable with how close my fingers are to the blade. I had footage of me using it but I only put a small amount of footage in. The sun kept coming out and it was way brighter than I expected so it wasn't the best for viewing. The table saw still makes me nervous (something about a sharp fast spinning blade sticking out of a table gets me, not sure why), so I am pretty careful.
Thanks for the feed back on the cypress pine. I thought it might be soft. I am still going to play with it and I wouldn't sell a knife with that on the handle. But I have some fun projects in mind it may be suitable for.
@@scottshobbyz5416 you can always find a good use for nice pieces of wood
You can also look for roots, sometimes they are great because the grain is a bit hasardous
Why can't you use the machine to thin thes scales down later ? Maybe I'll buy a cheap one once I get a bandsaw
The thicknessers can be a bit rough on the out side edges. A lot of people glue some pine as a sacrificial edge onto their work. Also you need to help it through so such little peices are a pain in that type of machine. But I have some other methods to try out. With hand tools and power tools.
Honestly if you get a bandsaw you won't need a thicknesser. Well not for knife handles. Wood work projects are a different thing. If you want to do wood handled for a long time a wood bandsaw may be beneficial. They are cheaper than metal cutting ones. I eventually want to use micarta and g10 and other stuff. So I would prefer a metal cutting one. But I am not in a rush. I am not anywhere near as efficient as I could be with what tools I have.
Hey 👋 GT
You know it. Advice from you must be taken. 👍
@@scottshobbyz5416 wood bandsaw should be strong enough the cut micarta, maybe even pins with the right saw
I'd like to have a bandsaw to cut in half wood pieces that are too thick, but I don't have any effecient way to flatten them after that, what would you advise me ?
Nice mate! I have an old school timber yard near my place that sells all sorts of random bits of timber. I got a few nice jarrah fence pickets that i used for scales.
Do u sell any of your knives? I’d love to purchase one
wow thanks. No I don't sell any yet I am still an absolute novice. There are loads of mistakes on them still. Maybe one day. For now I am just having fun learning the process of making them.
Nice .....
Thanks :)
So down under, maple is called "silky oak"? LMAO
Masallah