Great video! The plastic races you have are at least 11 years old! ...and still good! We switched the design of the plastic races to use 6 bolts instead of 4 in 2013 so the 6 bolt races you ordered would be what comes with the A-arm currently. We machine the white plastic races in-house here at IRO so the ridges on the sides are from our lathe machining the plastic. We always say our flex joints will last a very long time if they are greased and torqued to spec but in your case, they lasted even without grease and a loose bolt!
I have at least 50,000 miles on my IRO long arms, and my flex joints are still tight. I barely greased them over the last 7-8 years and have no problems at all. My friends with Johnny Joints can't believe it! They have to rebuild their JJs every other year! IRO for the win.
I find that greasing them via the grease zerk is near impossible, at least on their front long arm kit. They don't really accept grease because of the tight tolerance. My current issue is my exhaust pipe is somehow swinging side to side slightly and it's banging up again the IRO transmission crossmember. I fix one thing, and another 5 things break after that. lol
The plastic bushings are made of Delrin which used to be known as a “Military grade” plastic. They start out as bar stock similar to any steel or aluminum round stock. They’re machined just like how you would machine something out of steel or aluminum. And the reason these joints are NOT made out of metal is because metal ones would actually wear quicker. Delrin doesn’t actually NEED to be lubricated to perform. If you DO use grease on them, it’s recommended to use a silicone base grease because petroleum based grease can actually degrade the plastic. Also Delrin bushings are quiet aside from the clunking that you get when they do wear out, whereas steel and/or aluminum Heim Joints are loud and creaky and clunky even if they are not worn out. Finally, 2piece delrin bushings such as these are much more easily serviceable and rebuildable just by replacing the bushings which is exactly what you’re doing in this video. There ARE rebuildable metal joints much like these… but the service life is not nearly as long and you would find yourself having the service them all of the time, virtually having to grease them every time you drive off road especially after going through mud and water.
I have some bad clunk and terrible metal scrapping noises while turning over bumps for a year or so now, ever since i did IRO 3 link long arm... havent had time to investigate too much, could even be unrelated and be a CV or my front locker being worn or something else.
@@Scott00 Check and see if your exhaust is hitting the transmission cross member. It probably looks fine when stationary, but when you turn or go over bumps, it is probably moving and striking the cross member.
Man, get rid of that rear short arm setup and go with the full long arm. Side note, there should be a zurk grease fitting on that joint housing to keep you from having to tear it down.
Hey there ! I have the full Core4x4 arms on my WG (european model of WJ), very satisfied with the kit ! My Jeep definitely feels tightier on road (the original bushing were almost all gone), and the flex off road is insane ! I need to extend my bump stops so that I won"t rip off my rear bumper I have a clunking noise when driving fast over speed bumps, but it is most likely the Addco rear sway bar (from IRO) hitting on the fuel tank skid plate. Did you pay attention to your vent hose for the rear axle ? I noticed that it went off at the end of the video, you would not want dirt, water, or other contaminants in there ;) Keep up the good content !
Good job 👍🏽 I have a long arm lift kit and it seems like my front lowers are always going out . Same plastic design. On my second set now . Been lubing them and still go out . They rattle thru the front floor boards and gets annoying. 😅
Their website says it is UHMW. From their site: 'Ultra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene (UHMWPE or sometimes shortened to UHMW), also known as high-modulus polyethylene (HMPE) or high-performance polyethylene (HPPE), is a subset of the thermoplastic polyethylene. It has extremely long chains, with molecular weight numbering in the millions, usually between 2 and 6 million. The longer chain serves to transfer load more effectively to the polymer backbone by strengthening inter molecular interactions. This results in a very tough material, with the highest impact strength of any thermoplastic presently made. It is highly resistant to corrosive chemicals, with exception of oxidizing acids. It has extremely low moisture absorption, has a very low coefficient of friction, is self-lubricating, and is highly resistant to abrasion (15 times more resistant to abrasion than carbon steel). Its coefficient of friction is significantly lower than that of nylon and acetal, and is comparable to that of Teflon, but UHMWPE has better abrasion resistance than Teflon. It is odorless, tasteless, and nontoxic.'
Great video! The plastic races you have are at least 11 years old! ...and still good!
We switched the design of the plastic races to use 6 bolts instead of 4 in 2013 so the 6 bolt races you ordered would be what comes with the A-arm currently. We machine the white plastic races in-house here at IRO so the ridges on the sides are from our lathe machining the plastic. We always say our flex joints will last a very long time if they are greased and torqued to spec but in your case, they lasted even without grease and a loose bolt!
I have at least 50,000 miles on my IRO long arms, and my flex joints are still tight. I barely greased them over the last 7-8 years and have no problems at all. My friends with Johnny Joints can't believe it! They have to rebuild their JJs every other year! IRO for the win.
Have the rebuildable flex joints on my front differential upper control arm mounts and have been nice and tight so far.
Definitely a good upgrade from my experience!
I find that greasing them via the grease zerk is near impossible, at least on their front long arm kit. They don't really accept grease because of the tight tolerance. My current issue is my exhaust pipe is somehow swinging side to side slightly and it's banging up again the IRO transmission crossmember. I fix one thing, and another 5 things break after that. lol
😂 Jeep life!
So just take it to a muffler shop for $50 to fix that.. pretty simple fix
The plastic bushings are made of Delrin which used to be known as a “Military grade” plastic. They start out as bar stock similar to any steel or aluminum round stock. They’re machined just like how you would machine something out of steel or aluminum. And the reason these joints are NOT made out of metal is because metal ones would actually wear quicker. Delrin doesn’t actually NEED to be lubricated to perform. If you DO use grease on them, it’s recommended to use a silicone base grease because petroleum based grease can actually degrade the plastic.
Also Delrin bushings are quiet aside from the clunking that you get when they do wear out, whereas steel and/or aluminum Heim Joints are loud and creaky and clunky even if they are not worn out.
Finally, 2piece delrin bushings such as these are much more easily serviceable and rebuildable just by replacing the bushings which is exactly what you’re doing in this video. There ARE rebuildable metal joints much like these… but the service life is not nearly as long and you would find yourself having the service them all of the time, virtually having to grease them every time you drive off road especially after going through mud and water.
I need a Rear control arm
Still saving for that😅Definitely going to get the Ironrock ones now !
It’s honestly worth it! I’m surprised it’s lasted without any grease😂
A arm maintenance/replacement is a pain!
It definitely can be!
I have some bad clunk and terrible metal scrapping noises while turning over bumps for a year or so now, ever since i did IRO 3 link long arm... havent had time to investigate too much, could even be unrelated and be a CV or my front locker being worn or something else.
I am running the 3 link as well but not noises from the front end
@@Scott00 Check and see if your exhaust is hitting the transmission cross member. It probably looks fine when stationary, but when you turn or go over bumps, it is probably moving and striking the cross member.
Man, get rid of that rear short arm setup and go with the full long arm. Side note, there should be a zurk grease fitting on that joint housing to keep you from having to tear it down.
You going to pay for it😂 I do have a long arm setup for the rear lowers I’ll be installing soon but keeping the A arm
@NajarOffroad go all the way man! I'm rocking the 6.5 long arm kit for two years. I love it.
Hey there !
I have the full Core4x4 arms on my WG (european model of WJ), very satisfied with the kit ! My Jeep definitely feels tightier on road (the original bushing were almost all gone), and the flex off road is insane ! I need to extend my bump stops so that I won"t rip off my rear bumper
I have a clunking noise when driving fast over speed bumps, but it is most likely the Addco rear sway bar (from IRO) hitting on the fuel tank skid plate.
Did you pay attention to your vent hose for the rear axle ? I noticed that it went off at the end of the video, you would not want dirt, water, or other contaminants in there ;)
Keep up the good content !
Good job 👍🏽
I have a long arm lift kit and it seems like my front lowers are always going out .
Same plastic design.
On my second set now .
Been lubing them and still go out .
They rattle thru the front floor boards and gets annoying. 😅
Thanks for the video, I'll have to do this since mine are making noise!
Also, did you ever do the tail light giveaway?
When you gonna sell the license plate pod bracket
I think the plastic is nylon.
👌
I think it is actually UHMW plastic.
I think it’s just plastic
Their website says it is UHMW. From their site: 'Ultra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene (UHMWPE or sometimes shortened to UHMW), also known as high-modulus polyethylene (HMPE) or high-performance polyethylene (HPPE), is a subset of the thermoplastic polyethylene. It has extremely long chains, with molecular weight numbering in the millions, usually between 2 and 6 million. The longer chain serves to transfer load more effectively to the polymer backbone by strengthening inter molecular interactions. This results in a very tough material, with the highest impact strength of any thermoplastic presently made. It is highly resistant to corrosive chemicals, with exception of oxidizing acids. It has extremely low moisture absorption, has a very low coefficient of friction, is self-lubricating, and is highly resistant to abrasion (15 times more resistant to abrasion than carbon steel). Its coefficient of friction is significantly lower than that of nylon and acetal, and is comparable to that of Teflon, but UHMWPE has better abrasion resistance than Teflon. It is odorless, tasteless, and nontoxic.'
You keep referring to the control as an A-arm, those are two totally different things.
On the iron rock website it’s listed as adjustable rear A Arm
The rear upper control arm on the WJ is referred to as an A-arm, maybe because it looks like an A🤔🤔🤔
Some people call it wishbone and others call it a arm.
Some call it a sling blade others call it a kaiser blade.
No they are crap