RV Thermostat Upgrade Mod - Honeywell FocusPRO 5000
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- Опубліковано 25 січ 2017
- Update July 2019 - Detailed installation post and video of the Honeywell RTH5100 thermostat - www.loveyourrv.com/rv-digital...
See full blog post - www.loveyourrv.com/rv-thermost...
In this video, I upgrade my Keystone Cougar fifth wheel trailer thermostat to a Honeywell FocusPRO 5000 model number TH5110D1006.
I had previously upgraded the OEM Coleman-Mach analog slide controlled unit by installing a digital unit (Hunter 42999B) for a better temperature range. +- 2 degrees
See install post - www.loveyourrv.com/hunter-4299...
I decided to upgrade to the Honeywell to get two more options the Hunter didn't have.
1- A backlit display
2- Auto switching from heating to cooling
The install was fairly straightforward. I moved the previously wired in hi/lo fan switch to a mounting point on the wall.
Red - 12 volt DC power
Yellow - Controls the Cooling
White - Controls the Heating
Green - Fan Hi/Lo
Gray - Fan Hi/Lo
Products mentioned in the video (Affiliate Links)
Honeywell FocusPRO - amzn.to/2jZL1YH
Toggle Switch - amzn.to/2jRNRg3
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*Update July 2019* - Detailed installation post and video of the Honeywell RTH5100 thermostat - www.loveyourrv.com/rv-digital-thermostat-upgrade-mod-explained/
Thanks for this video! We have been searching for two years for something that I, with no DIY skills, could follow and understand. It took me 10 minutes to hook up a thermostat and it worked like a charm. Everyone wants to add a toggle switch to control low and high fan speeds, but we have never used the low fan speed. We now have a programmable thermostat that will allow us to walk in on a Friday night to cool temperatures thanks to your video! Our RV is permanently set up at a resort near our home and we will now be able to enjoy a Friday night without constantly wondering when it will cool down!
Awesome. glad it worked out for you. Cheers! Ray
Ray, thanks for doing this video! I have been wanting to switch out the analog thermostat for a digital one on our motorhome for some time and I had already bought a Honeywell mod# RTH111 before I saw your video. It's a bare bones unit and is not programmable. We have always run our Coleman AC and heater as well on high fan so we would not need the toggle switch though it is a good idea. I have not been able to get the install complete and I attempted again today to install after viewing your video. After I tried to wire it looking at my notes and your wiring I started the AC. It runs perfect for about 8-10 minutes and then the fan shuts off while the compressor is still running. I shut it off immediately! I am fairly good mechanically but not too much when it comes to wiring something like this. I do not know how to wire it so just the high fan is operable. Could you give me some input? I would appreciate it.
We installed that identical thermostat in our travel trailer about 4 years ago. It's working fine. People get upset, "You can't run a 24 Volt household thermostat in a12 Volt RV.". It's been working fine. I'm keeping it.
Yup, I've been using this one or similar for over 10 years of full time RVing :) The batteries last a surprisingly long time.
Im in the process of upgrading my ColemanMach thermostat to a Honeywell. I was going to leave the blue and grey unattached and capped, thinking I'd just stick with "HI" fan only speed, until I saw your video. What a brilliant and simple idea to add a toggle switch. I'm stealing the idea, but as noted in another comment, will mount it in an "up/down" positioning LOL.
Thank you Ray for the great explanation on how the Honeywell residential thermostats work. Your analogy to being a switch simplified my understanding of how to wire one into my RV. Love the improved temperature regulation, and especially the auto switching from AC to heat.
Glad it was helpful!
Now that is good info, I haven't taken mine apart yet to see if was some kind of rv magic. Looks to be just like residential. On my list. Thanks Ray
nice upgrade. The first thing i did in our new Travel Trailer was replace the slider t-stat with a Coleman RV 12v stat. It has the Hi Low switch already included but it wasn't cheap
Great mod. This one is on my ToDo list, I just have not gotten around to it yet. I will check out the Honeywell. Thanks!
I just bought this and should have it by Friday. I'll get to do the upgrade while we are camping for the 4th. Thanks for the informative videos! Happy US 4th of July!
You're welcome, hope it works out for you. I love it for this time of year as we are needing AC in day and heat at night, so I can just leave it in Auto and it switches over itself. Cheers Ray
Called the anticipator setting.
The old thermostats had a manual adjustment and 3 degrees is about right somtimes 4.
Our current Dometic is 7 degrees with no adjustment feature and I want to change it out.
Video (and the other related video) still helping people like me to this day. Just upgraded a Coleman-Mach 7330F3852 Analog to a Honeywell TH6110D1005/U (Focus Pro 6000) Digital Programmable in my 2018 Heartland Mallard M28. Thanks for the concise informative video(s). I like knowing what I'm getting in to before getting into it and these were absolutely ideal. This has been about the only straightforward easy D.I.Y. project on this TT and your video made it even easier. Very much appreciated sir.
Great to hear. Cheers, Ray
Watched it again....think I got the answer!!! So in the 'Auto' mode the fan speed is where ever the toggle switch is set. THANKS....
Good job Ray .
To bad about the water heater well
Have to update it to a on demand water heater .
Keep the shiny side up Jeff
Decided to go with the same WH will make the install easy on the road, straight swap. I looked at on demand but looks like a good one is pricey and the install may be over my head so more money for that. Plus we spend 6 months of the year on full hookups with free electric.
For us having a 6 gallon hasn't been a problem. Cheers!
This is a mod i need to do. The thermostat in my rig is the chepo original one and it likes to stick either on and run until the rig is 60° inside or it wont kick on at all and its 95° inside.
Ray- I probably should of asked first, but I hope your still happy with this product. I just ordered one!!
It has been working great since I installed.
Aprilaire 8400 series thermostats also have the capability of auto change over from heat and cool modes
What about the systems that has the wireless remote? Can they be changed? It has a 7 degree deference!
That's a pretty neat looking unit there Ray, I don't have air conditioning down there mine's on the roof the old style even though it's a 2016. But I do want to change out the thermostat because as you mentioned he'll slider type don't work too good. You got any recommendations on something that just does heat?
So I have this issue w 2 thermostats idk if I need to replace both or combine in one? One is for the heat the other for the ac
Hi Ray, Nice Mod.
Thanks, Bill
Ray,thanks for the great video.. I installed the T sat and have only tried the Surban furnace so far. The switch for the fan does it only work for the hi lo fan in AC or should the heat also have hi low fan.
Thanks and keep on trucking.
Yes, that's how it is with my setup. Our Suburban furnace on has a single speed fan, the AC has the dual-speed capability.
Cheers! Ray
Hi there! Just subbed, great work! Question I submitted through your website, I'll ask here as well just in case it doesn't get to you. We have the exact same set up and I followed this exactly and it all works great! However on your updated video the wire going to the middle prong of the "on on" switch is different than this one. Could you clarify if the "G" terminal still needs to be soldered to the middle prong for the switch? I mean, it all works wonderfully but figured I'd ask for clarity. Many thanks, awesome job!
Genius idea with the hi/lo switch! How long do the batteries last before you have to change them? I had one of these in a house with an old millivolt floor furnace and the batteries would die after 2 weeks... ugh!
Usually, around 4 - 6 months, cheers, Ray
another great video, I did HVAC for 20 years. You did a great job with the wiring and those t-stats are not for the basic RV'r. They are hard to understand and set up without some knowledge of wiring before hand. Did that one have a switch on the back for GAS OR ELECTRIC heat?
Thanks, all the options can be set by entering into a programming mode with the front buttons - customer.honeywell.com/resources/techlit/TechLitDocuments/69-0000s/69-2698EFS.pdf
That's where you adjust for gas or electric, and AC compressor protection time setting, heating and cooling range stops, etc.
It also had a test mode.
Ray, The 'Auto' setting for the fan....does that just turn the fan on when (set to HEAT) the furnace comes on to say low speed (if that's the wire you used for the fan) and if you want 'HI' fan you'd have to use the switch that you used and it'd be 'HI' speed until the switch is move back? Next time the speed would be 'HI' if the switch was left in the 'HI' position....THANKS....
The furnace fan in ours is fixed at one speed the auto is for the AC and in auto mode, the AC fan comes on when the compressor kicks on and in manual it's always on. The high/low switch dictates what the fan speed will be in both auto and manual modes.
Ray
Great video!
What do you do about when boondocking since you can't use a/c then but might need heater do you still leave it on auto?
We usually switch it to just heat.
Great video Ray. I have just completed this exact mod in our 2020 Class C Thor Four Winds 28Z. My question is: when on Auto mode (cooling taking place) and Auto Fan mode, if the temp in the RV get to a temp below the setpoint and the heat furnace kicks in (heating mode now), is the AC fan supposed to turn off on its own? my furnace is a propane furnace with it's own (i believe) single speed fan. Thank you in advance Ray.
Thanks :) Yes, in auto mode my AC fan stops when the cooling turns off.
What about the systems that has a wireless remote? Is there a way to install a normal wall thermostat like that? The remote has a 7 degree spread. it's awful?
Sorry, not familiar with them, maybe some else will chime in. Cheers Ray
Was there no issue being that the rv requires 12v? I would like to install the Honeywell wifi smart thermostat in my fifth wheel, so i can set temperatures before i get home. I was thinking of using a nest but they require a 24 volt system and lots of other hacks to get them to function properly in rv, thanks
This particular model was able to be powered off the alkaline batteries so didn't need to be powered by 24 volts. Not all models are able to do this so you'd have to check.
Ray, we have a 2008 Cougar fifth wheel and trying to change out the old Duo-Therm with the new Focus Pro 5000 you show.
The wiring we have is R,Y,W,Blue,O,Black and G (which wasn't used). After installing the new thermostat using the R,Y,W and a jumper from the G slot to the center of the toggle with Blue and O on each side, the fan doen't run. Any thoughts?
Duotherm AC, I assume that means it has heat built it too? Anyway, the wiring appears different that than mine judging by this manual - www.nwrvsupply.com/manuals/duotherm_air_installation.pdf
Maybe it can help sort out the fan for you, these is a color code in it for the wires.
Do you still recommend the thermostat in your video? Or is there a newer or different one?
It's worked great for us, I haven't looked for a replacement, does what I wanted it to do.
Would you please tell me (us) the RV park near Palm Springs (assuming that you are in California). It looks beautiful!
Oasis Palms RV Resort - here is a review I did - www.loveyourrv.com/oasis-palms-rv-resort-review/ Cheers, Ray
Love the video but mine has a the green wire as a ground and I can’t get the new thermostat to work I here it click to command it on but no fan ??
You may have a different AC unit than mine, Duotherm use different hookup, check this video where I explain the wiring - www.loveyourrv.com/rv-digital-thermostat-upgrade-mod-explained/
I tried connecting a Honeywell thermostat to my Dometic air conditioner & Atwood heater and found a ground wire with all the other wires that you mentioned. Honeywell doesn't require one and Dometic says that it cant be done. Do you have any sugestions.
How do you know it is the ground wire? These were the colors in my Cougar trailer with a Coleman Mach AC and Suburban Furnace. Other RVs and furnace AC brands may use different color codes. in most cases, Yellow and White will be the AC and Heat but other colors may be different.
If you search hopefully you can find someone who modded theirs. ie. - www.modmyrv.com/2012/01/03/mod-100-honeywell-digital-thermostat
I'm going to order the same thermostat (Focuspro 5000 Non-Programmable Thermostat (TH5110D1006) and switch as you did and install it in my 2013 Starcraft autumn ridge 328bhu.
I was wondering if you could give me an update on how it's been working for you since you installed it.
Any issues, how do you like the thermostat?
Thanks!!
It's worked perfectly. We like it. Wife approved!
Great to have the backlight and the auto switchover from cooling to heating.
Cheers Ray
Why not a programmable Thermostat Ray? We like to turn it way down at night and have it come on just before we get up. I added one to our old fifth wheel but haven't gotten around to it on the new one. Just curious...
Kept it simple and my wife likes it the same temp all the time so we don't need a programmable.
Thanks for the video. I wired mine the same exact way but shouldnt the fan come on independently from the air conditioner. I set my cool/heat to off ..Fan will not come on when put in "On"position. Does the control have to be in cool for this to happen . But then the compressor will come on right. ? Appreciate your help.
My fan comes on independently when I put it in the ON position even with the system set to off. In the auto position, it comes on only when the AC comes on. Here is another video I did with a little more detailed explanation of the wiring. www.loveyourrv.com/rv-digital-thermostat-upgrade-mod-explained/ Cheers, Ray
Your also using a red wire to the R/Rc terminal on the 5000. I thought both units were capable of battery only?
Yes, the red wire is the 12+ RV battery supply wire to fire the heater or AC. A little relay clicks inside the thermostat.
The batteries power the thermostats microprocessor control board. Without them, nothing runs.
I have a ‘17 Arctic Fox with an Airxcell 9430 338. I bought the Honeywell Focus Pro 5000. However I have a black wire that isn’t addressed anywhere. Any thoughts/ideas?
Here is the Airxcell thermostat manual for 9430 338 and I don't see any black wire mentioned www.lancecamper.com/docs/manuals/RVProducts-9430.pdf So I gather it must be something Artic Fox wired into there, maybe its for some other device or option.
Very nice!!
Ray, That was a great vid on the water heater. Can't wait for mine to stop working, LOL. On the thermostat, can you comment on the hi/low switch a little. Is there no digital thermostat that has that as a feature? Just seems a little round a bout? The current stock unit is switchable. Thanks.
Thanks, Todd.
I looked at the digital replacement for my old analog Coleman Mach. It has the built in fan switch but no auto heat to cool ability.
amzn.to/2kJAbm9
There may be other thermostats out there, but I didn't find one with the dual speed AC fan and auto heat to cool functionality. I really like that feature. Cheers Ray
So i just got a RV with the small thermostat but there is a BROWN wire??? Never seen that what color do you put that into
Not sure as there isn't any standards in RV wiring, so it can vary between manufactures and appliance brands. Here is a video that may help where I try and explain the thermostat install - www.loveyourrv.com/rv-digital-thermostat-upgrade-mod-explained/ Cheers, Ray
do you know if they make a thermostat with high and low fan so you don't have to put in extra switch on?
Maybe, but I don't know of one.
I found one is made by Coleman is About twice the price of others but it has a high and low Fan setting. 8330-3862 COLEMAN RV WALL THERMOSTAT FOR HEAT COOL CONTROL
Thanks, good to know. I like having the auto switch over from heating to cooling, though. That's a big feature I wanted the FocusPro for. Don't have to remember to manually switch from cooling to heating before bed. Also, it has a backlight for nightime, not sure if this Coleman has or not. Cheers! Ray
Ya, they do for RVs at like two to three times the price it would cost you to use a house one with a "ON-ON" toggle switch, just like the did in the video above.
I got same thermostat, and went to put it in. I've got a blue wire ,witch is 12vdc negative. do you just not use that wire?
Take a look at some of my responses to comments/questions above and you'll have your answer.
Very informative as always Ray! I'm replacing my Coleman-Mach thermostat with a honewell. The Coleman wiring says that Green = High Fan, Gray = Low Fan, Yellow = Compressor, White = Heat, Red = 12 VDC Positive and Blue = 12 VDC negative. I don't really care about the low fan option so I didn't connect the gray wire. I also didn't connect the blue (12 VDC negative) wire but I'm thinking it should be connected to make the AC system run correctly. I'm just not sure which terminal I should connect it to. Do you any thoughts on it? Thanks! PS....we are sitting in Florida right now with 90 degrees temps and no AC.....so my wife is not really happy with me right now.
The wiring in RVs can vary quite a bit depending on the furnace and AC they have installed. So I can't say for sure. Some have different features. The blue wire could be a ground wire for the old thermostat and not needed in the new one since it runs its own alkaline batteries.
Here is a diagram I found - www.forestriverforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=114976&d=1469241592
Thanks for the info Ray! I finally gave up and called a "certified RV mechanic" to fix our AC. He was appalled that I had tried to replace the Coleman-Mach thermostat with a non-Coleman-Mach thermostat. He ended up installing a Coleman-Mach thermostat exactly like the one I had taken out, and then replaced the circuit board on the AC too. It still didn't work and then after some testing that he should have started with, he found that the thermostat wasn't getting any power. He rerouted the power wire to another 12V source and voila it fired right up. From my perspective he should have tested the power to the thermostat as his first trouble shooting step and that probably would have solved the problem (and saved us lots of money). But I guess to retain his "certification" designation he has to say that you can't use anything but a Coleman-Mach thermostat on a Coleman-Mach AC. The one positive thing that came out of it was when we met up with our son and his family at Disney World. Their AC (Coleman-Mach) had stopped working too so I told them to check the power source first, and sure enough, the thermostat was not getting the power it needed to fire up the AC. So they ran the power line to a new 12V source and voila (again) it fired right up and ran perfectly the whole time we were at Disney!
Not sure why he was so appalled, people swap out their OEM home thermostats with aftermarket ones all the time, why is an RV so different.
I find a lot of techs just like to through parts at a problem, that's often how they train them these days. Saves time troubleshooting I guess. Glad you got it fixed. :)
Good morning
Pet question it it possible to use this as a thermostat for a 12 volt always on pipe heater attached to a rock to keep our turtle warm can it be used for that ?
I think it could work by installing a relay on the 12V power feed. So the thermostat could could trigger the relay to open a close the 12V feed as needed. The relay would have to be sized to handle the amperage for the pipe heater.
Hey Ray... I figured what the gray (low speed) and green (high speed ) on the fan...what’s the blue for?? I hooked up the green wire since it don’t make no real difference on the speed anyway. Bottom line...I got it working. Already love the heat setting. Thanks again!!
The "ON - ON" switch allows the fan to always be operating, either in low or high speed. The switch has 3 contacts to attach wires to. The gray and green wires originally wired directly into the old, analog switch because the old switch had a slider that would allow a person to select low or high fan speed, but the house type thermostats do not have this feature. So, if the gray wire is low fan speed and the green is high fan speed and you connect the gray wire to the far left contact on the toggle switch and the green wire to the far right contact of the switch, you still need a way for the electricity to flow from the house thermostat to the switch. This is accomplished by attaching the blue wire to the middle contact of the switch and to the fan terminal in the house thermostat. So, in a nutshell, move the switch to the left to get low speed fan, the electricity flows through the house thermostat, through the blue wire, through the switch, and then through the gray wire to the fan. Same applies for the high fan by moving the switch to the right, but instead of the word "gray", replace it with green.
Steven Jefferys I did figure out what the grey and green wires were. And I understand the blue wire to the toggle switch was the output signal for fan on. I was wondering what the blue wire on the analog thermostat was for. BTW the Honeywell is keeping the TT absolutely comfortable!!
Does yours actually switch between ac and furnace when its set it auto? I have it wired up and it works on both but not when I set it to auto. I'm gonna have to recheck my wiring to make sure I have it wired correctly.
Yes, it works. Did you go into the settings and change it for Auto operation? Manual is the default mode. Setup function 12 in the manual - customer.honeywell.com/resources/techlit/TechLitDocuments/69-0000s/69-2698EFS.pdf
i will have to look into that thanks
Thank you for the video. Do I understand this correctly? The only way to run this 24v thermostat is to have batteries otherwise the 24v wont work with a 12v system?
Yes, that why I used a model with the batteries, they seem to last about a year or so. :)
My Dometic control box has an 6pin white plug instead of the 9pin. Anyone run into this issue?
Just a guess but some of the newer systems are using digital CAN Bus to communicate versus the old analog wiring, Maybe that is the case. Try and find the service manual online for your model
Hi Ray,
I love your videos. Keep them coming! I have a 09 Keystone Everest, and I am following your install with a very similar Honeywell thermostat. I have one thing I don't understand. I have all the same colours of wires as you do. I see you have a blue wire running from the terminal to the fan switch. But did you not have a blue wire coming out of the wall? If so, what did you do with it? This question is the only thing standing between me and success. I think. :) Though I am going to just hook up the high speed fan wire for now (green?) and leave the low speed taped off (grey?) If I find I miss having 2 speeds I can always hook it up in the future to a switch like you did. Any advice appreciated.
Dean
Honestly, I can't remember as I did the original mod 5 years ago The blue wire is likely a ground wire that isn't needed since the new thermostat runs off its own battery power. I believe green is high and gray is low.
Cheers Ray
Hi Ray,
Geez I didn't notice how old the video was. :)
Happy to say we have success! I taped off the grey and the blue wires, connected the remaining 4 wires to their respective colours on the thermostat, and it is working. Testing now, but the big drop in temperature before the furnace kicks on seems to be gone. Thanks again for the video!
Dean
Cool,!
You are a life saver!! Thanks so much!!!!
We tried to install the same one today. It tested perfectly but now the AC will not turn on in the non-test mode. Honeywell customer service said it is not compatible because of the two extra wires and we needed a commercial stat. I think she was located in a foreign country and was talking from a script. Can you help? We are also in the PS area.
Honeywell will likely be no help as the don't understand the RV and what we are trying to do, all their support scripts for primary tech support have to do with houses. Here is another video I did to try and explain clearer - www.loveyourrv.com/rv-digital-thermostat-upgrade-mod-explained/
Hi Ray, I looked up the number and it’s says none programmable, is this the right number? TH5110D1006
Yes, you can set the cooling and heating temp but there isn't any setting up of timers, etc. works for me as I just want it to turn on the AC when it hits about 78F and the furnace when it hits about 58F Cheers, Ray
Thank you
How that you have had this a few years, how is the battery life on this unit? I am looking to replace the one in my 5th wheel but if the battery life is horrible it may not be worth it.
It's so good I often forget it uses batteries but can vary with the climate we are in. More use of AC or furnace will reduce the life since the relays need to be triggered more often
We are full-time living in the RV. The 2 AAA batteries usually last 6 months to a year for me as long as I don't use cheap brands from say the dollar stores. I usually use Energizers. You could always mod things and use a DC-DC buck converter to supply the DC battery voltage required from the batteries of the rig. amzn.to/3kHVmaZ I do that for my weather station display.
Do you know of any that works with the RV heat pump?
You'd have to look up your specific RV heat pump manual; I assume it's an AC with a heat strip inside and see what kind of wiring it has for the thermostat. Some use digital these days, so it's harder to match up.
My coach has 3 AC zones and 2 heat zones. What are the chances I can find an alternative to my Coleman RV Comfort stat?
Wow, must be a huge rig. Sorry, I don't have any experience wiring up a thermostat to that many zones, maybe someone else has. Ray
Yes, there are RV type t-stats out there that do different zones, but they are pricey. Just do a search on Amazon and you will find some.
Added Focus Pro6000
I wanted to wire it with only battery operation. Could not get it to work unless I connected the +12 .
Why?
Not sure, I installed the FocusPro 5000 not 6000, maybe something is different between the two models.
Ok, the batteries in the house thermostat only power the thermostat itself to be able to function, such as its screen. I believe that the power for your furnace or air conditioner CONTROLLERS is 12 volts DC and this obviously comes from your 12 volt battery (I don't think that they are directly 120 volts AC). DC = direct current and AC = alternating current. You have to connect the 12 volt wire to the back of the house thermostat because if you didn't your furnace or air conditioner CONTROLLERS would not have any power to run. Basically, your thermostat is like an electrical switch that allows current to flow when it senses a need to turn the HVAC equipment on. Most house furnace or ac controllers run on 24 volts DC and thus house type thermostats are rated to at least that. 12 volts DC is less than 24 volts DC and so there is no problem connecting a 12 volt DC source to a house thermostat that can withstand at least 24 volts DC. In a nutshell, you MUST connect the 12 volt DC wire from the wall of the RV to the back of the house thermostat if you want the furnace or ac in your RV to work. As well, you cannot use a house type thermostat that needs 24 volts DC to run, i.e. it doesn't need batteries, as the RV does not provide 24 volts DC. It provides 12 volts DC.
This thermostat does not work on my Forest River Wildcat 2010. The old Dometic Thermo system was 7.5 volts. this unit needs 24 volts - or else I wired it wrong?!
This thermostat doesn't actually need the 24V, it will run fine using the onboard AA batteries which is why they are important to have. I explain that in greater detail here www.loveyourrv.com/rv-digital-thermostat-upgrade-mod-explained/ My wiring is for a Coleman Mach 3 AC and Suburban furnace. Other brands may use different wiring that a person will have to figure out. Here is a link to discussions that may help
www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28254233.cfm
forum.loveyourrv.com/discussion/94/doing-the-thermostat-mod-at-least-trying
Cheers, Ray
Thanks for video. Can I switch my Dometic thermostat 3106995.032 to your Honeywell TH5110D1006 ?
Sorry, I'm not sure about the Dometic system, mine is a Coleman Mach. I have a Coleman Mach III AC and a Suburban furnace.
Here is a video I found, maybe it will help - ua-cam.com/video/lOPtLUTmHIc/v-deo.html Cheers, Ray
look at the connector from behind the thermostat (in the wall) if it looks like a telephone line you can't otherwise you can try
Hi Ray. Can you run just the AC fan and then have the heater kick on separately? Looking for background fan noise + heat when necessary. Thanks!
I believe it does. Here is what the manual says: In “Auto” mode (the most commonly used setting), the fan runs only when the heating or cooling system is on. If set to “On,” the fan runs continuously. Use this setting for improved air circulation, or for more
efficient air cleaning. forwardthinking.honeywellhome.com/related_links/thermostats/focuspro_5000/install/69_1923es.pdf
Unfortunately, I can't test it for you mine had an issue and failed and I haven't had a chance to replace it had to reinstall the old style. ua-cam.com/video/k9esJJZ6OW4/v-deo.html
@@LoveYourRV Thanks! I will take a chance. Having the heat auto come on and less of a temperature swing will be worth it for that!
@@LoveYourRV Ray, any indication as to why or how it failed? For the price I don't want to change this every couple of years.
@@andrewk1916 No, just start to act up intermittently. Maybe a poor connection on the circuit board inside or a flakey chip is my guess, not worth repairing though so will replace. I actually just ordered a new one. Want to get it installed before we get later in the year and I start needing AC in the day and heat at night. Cheers, Ray
Will the model you are installing be appropriate to replace most Dometics? Thank you.
I'm not sure I've never tried it on a Dometic, my AC is a Coleman Mach and my furnace is a Suburban. Check out this website it has some info on the mod too - www.modmyrv.com/2012/01/03/mod-100-honeywell-digital-thermostat Cheers, Ray
Ok thank you.
Its compatible with 12 volt systems right?
Seems to be, my RV runs on 12 volts DC. The thermostat uses two alkaline batteries and they power the thermostats microcontroller. I've been using it for a year and a half now to run our AC and furnace. We have a Coleman Mach 3 AC unit and a Suburban SF30 furnace. Cheers, Ray
Honeywell says this thermostat is for a 24V power supply, (such as in a house). So, how did you use this in an RV. Don't they have 12V power to the thermostat?
This particular model can be powered off the alkaline batteries so didn't need to be powered by 24 volts. Not all models can do this. Likely Honeywell doesn't know how an RV is setup. But many have used this thermostat in the RV without 24V. It can also depend on the AC and Furnace wiring, not all stuff on an RV is standard. All I can tell you is it worked for me with a Coleman Mach 3 AC and a Suburban SF30 furnace. Here is more info on the mod using a similar battery-powered thermostat www.modmyrv.com/2008/07/14/rv-digital-thermostat Cheers, Ray
Love Your RV Thanks for your quick reply. I put my old thermostat back on for now, and will probably later get the Hunter one.
I had the Hunter in before - www.loveyourrv.com/hunter-42999b-digital-rv-thermostat-install/ I switched to the Focus Pro 5000 to get the auto heat to cooling ability. Having said that it worked well but last winter packed it in, ended up putting the old slider type back until I can get a new Honeywell. I had an update in December, the Honeywell failed and caused an issue where it wouldn't shut the furnace down. ua-cam.com/video/k9esJJZ6OW4/v-deo.html I'm thinking I just had a dud and will try another one as I like the way it functioned.
Cheers, Ray
Well love the idea, put in the same thermostat and now nothing works??? I do have a extra green wire that was hooked to a ground terminal on the old thermostat. Any ideas. I put the ground wire to the common both and unhooked it as well. Still no response. They say check the 24 volts....I tried between the red and green and no voltage. System worked perfectly prior to mod so its something I have done or bat Tstate?
What is the model of our old thermostat? Was it a Coleman Mach, that' the one my RV had - In here you'll find the color codes www.cleggind.com/postal_tech/pdfs/AC2/airxcel_1976376%5B1%5D.pdf
Dometic system and t stat
Have a look at this page. It has a diagram for a Dometic and some install instructions - www.modmyrv.com/2012/01/03/mod-100-honeywell-digital-thermostat
Hopefully, yours is similar. - Ray
That link was perfect, I hooked up the Red wire for power, not the black wire to the terminal. thanks a bunch for your time
Awesome!
I cant get mine to stay on for more than a few seconds after the upgrade, any advice?
also the blue wire is not connected since we do not use the hi fan setting
Which doesn't stay on AC or Furnace and what kind of AC and Furnace do you have. Is it a Suburban furnace and Coleman Mach III AC unit like mine? is your trailer a Cougar like mine?
Any upgrades since this was done?
Yes, I had an update in December, the Honeywell failed and causes an issue where it wouldn't shut the furnace down. ua-cam.com/video/k9esJJZ6OW4/v-deo.html I'm thinking I just had a dud and will try another one as I like the way it functioned.
Cheers, Ray
It would be great to have a Solar water heater for the RV.
I think as lithium battery and solar panel technology keep improving and cheapen it will start to become more and more feasible.
Something more like this, www.amazon.com/EZ-37-Solar-Water-Heater-Heliatos/dp/B007F54PUY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1485817298&sr=8-2&keywords=solar+water+heater. But it would require running plumbing to a panel on the roof or on the ground .
The question that I have is why you don’t need the ground wire?
Because the 2 onboard AA batteries on the Honeywell are running the thermostat display, electronics and relays. When something is turned on say the furnace for example the thermostat closes the furnace relay and connects 12V to the furnace white wire. This triggers the furnace control board to start the furnace run cycle. www.loveyourrv.com/rv-digital-thermostat-upgrade-mod-explained/ Now this is how my RV's Coleman Mach 3 and Suburban SF30 furnace functions but other brands and models may function differently and utilize a ground wire. My wiring isn't universal to all RVs and some newer RVs have quite different setups using digital data wires instead.
red= hot leg or positive. Yellow= yard or AC unit. White= winter or heat. blue/green= gust of wind, the fan. Basic HVAC hook up. sweet mod!!!
What if your setup has a white/black cable in addition to the white cable?
@@JPacheco what terminal was it hooked up too on the thermostat?
Is turning the system off an easy thing to do with the Honeywell? (for those of us that don't fill time yet)
Hi Craig, yes, there is an off. You push a button and it cycles through Heating or Cooling modes or Auto Switching or Off
But if the RV is in storage for a while I would just remove the batteries. Cheers! Ray
I am trying to hook this up. I would like to just leave the low fan on only. Also what way did you set up the thermostat for your RV?
Here is a more detail explanation of the hookup - www.loveyourrv.com/rv-digital-thermostat-upgrade-mod-explained/ Cheers, Ray
Love Your RV So The diagram for the RTH5100B shows the correct color coding for my wires. However, I’m trying to connect the TH5110D1006. I only want my low fan to work. Also, not sure what the set up function is for this installment.
I forget which color was high or low. Just try one or the other as a test and see which does low. Not sure what you are talking about when you say "setup function" What function?
Love Your RV when I set it up on the new thermostat itself. I’m trying to figure out the settings for the thermostat
I showed it in the video I linked to - ua-cam.com/video/fzH3vTZe3Qc/v-deo.html Also, its in the owners manual - www.thermalproducts.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/TH5110D-FocusPRO-Installation-Instructions.pdf
The original stats are terrible. I discovered that taking off the cover completely solved the extreme temperature differential from on to off and off to on, so I ended up cutting the holes that permit air circulation into the unit to about three times the size, thereby permitting better flow of air past the bi-metal bar, and problem solved. It's like the manufacturer never tried these stats once before putting them on the market.
Smart mod.I like that. Cheers, Ray
We sooooo need to do this! lol
Thanks for sharing! :O)
Can you set a different heat and cool temps?
Sure, I set my heat at 60F and cooling at 76F and it works great. In auto mode no need to touch the thermostat.
@@LoveYourRV your tougher than me if you sleep with it at 60!
We have a warm thick duvet and a 10 inch thick foam mattress so I stay quite warm, my wife is the one that gets cold but I bought her an 6 level electric throw blanket and she uses that with power from our RV batteries through an inverter. Saves on propane. :)
@@LoveYourRV we have that in our house. But I put a 3” natural rubber topper on my camper bed mattress. Love it! We run ours at 68 at night.
I thought those Honeywell’s could only do
24vAC
They can run without the 24V supply if they also run off the back up alkaline batteries, has to be a model with them. The FocusPro model is one. I find the batteries last any where from 6 months to a year depending on temps. Here is a video post I did with a more in depth explanation - www.loveyourrv.com/rv-digital-thermostat-upgrade-mod-explained/ Cheers, Ray
Coleman/Mach makes a digital unit with all features built in including two speed fan.
Amazon $93.
Thanks, I decided on this Honeywell model due to its ability to auto switch from cooling to heating modes. At the time the Coleman Mach models I could find didn't do that and also were quite expensive. Sometimes of the year the sun will heat the rig and we need AC in the day but still need the heating at night. Cheers, Ray
Now just wait a goosh darn minute, that fan switch should of went up and down.
Hi up low down
haha, I better give it a twist. :)
You can run on AC high or low but not furnace!IF YOU INSTALL CORRECTLY WITHOUT A SEPARATE SWITCH.
How is that accomplished? I understand from the Honeywell Focus Pro 5000 manual that there is only one fan speed selection, so a separate toggle is required.
@@LoveYourRV ua-cam.com/video/qTqlr8y7USo/v-deo.htmlsi=8MU5vWqcyREyEAt8
That for a home 24VAC HVAC system with an air handler, etc. This 12VDC RV AC is wired a little different. Here is an explanation of my RVs thermostat wiring www.loveyourrv.com/rv-digital-thermostat-upgrade-mod-explained/
@@LoveYourRV they all operate on low voltage. Factory RV HVAC operate on 12 volt shore/house operates 12/24 voltage with step down transformer supplied with furnace or heat pump. House heating furnace you 3 options fan speed inside of furnace. You should do some homework makes man more knowledgeable.
I know they are both low-voltage. RV = 12VDC Home is 24VAC You still haven't told me how to wire the Honeywell Focus Pro 5000 thermostat for high/low fan speed without using a separate switch for the RV Coleman Mach 3 AC.
You stated "You can run on AC high or low but not furnace! IF YOU INSTALL CORRECTLY WITHOUT A SEPARATE SWITCH." Seems like you know a method, please elaborate.
All you did was link to some home HVAC thermostat 101 video that didn't seem relevant. I'm well aware the RV furnace only has one fan speed. It's the Coleman Mach AC that has two fan speeds. The OEM RV Coleman Mach thermostat has the AC high/low switch built into it. I don't see the functionality in the Focus Pro 5000 thus the reason for my external switch.
What about a Nest thermostat?
They are cool but a little more than I'd want to spend on a thermostat. :)
Love Your RV oh yes, they're not cheap but AMAZING capabilities. We have one in our house but wondered if we could install in a class A. Are they compatible with an RV heating/cooling system?
Likely would work as far as I can tell with a quick search but would need 24VAC power to the C terminal. Doesn't look like it can run off batteries or 12 VDC So I would think a 12 VDC to 24VAC converter would need to be installed.
Love Your RV Gotcha. While the Nest is amazing and very intuitive, it may not be a viable solution. With the nest you can link to your smart phone and control your heat/cooling systems remotely among so many other features. Thanks again for the quick replies and check us out at AWAY WE GO 2.OH!. We are a new channel dedicated to RV;Ingram, our transition to full time and military retiree/RV/Space A travel on military flights. THat said, we only have two videos posted so far haha, but ya gotta start somewhere!!
Have to add that to the wish list. Sounds ideal for people that leave pets, to check on temps, the only sticking point for RVers is many times not having reliable internet connection for it to work off. Good luck with the new channel! Cheers Ray
install a Truma water heater...you not regret it
How much, where do you buy one and does it run on electric and gas and both? Thanks
I like your content but your sound hurts my ears if you haven't already I would suggest a better sound recorder.
Yup, upgraded the camcorder a year and a half ago to one that supported an external microphone - www.loveyourrv.com/love-your-rv-gets-a-new-4k-camcorder-sony-fdr-ax53/
Do not try this modification. It does not work. The thermostat he is attempting to install is 24V, and your RV is 7.5V or 12V.
Works fine, I use it all the time for heating and cooling, it uses the onboard AA batteries to power the small micro switch relay in the thermostat. I'd guess its there for when home power goes out but works fine for use in the RV, I've found the 2 AA batteries last around 6 months more or less depending on how much heating and cooling needs to be done. More info here - www.loveyourrv.com/rv-digital-thermostat-upgrade-mod-explained/ Cheers, Ray
Cut to the reason people are looking for. Way too much blabla.
Thanks for your opinion, I'll keep it mind.