Building A Power Supply For The Lost World Pinball Machine - They Scrapped It
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- Опубліковано 6 чер 2024
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Our store is located at 139 Caldwell St., Rock Hill, SC 29730. - Наука та технологія
My personal workspace is also perfectly organized. It’s not my problem if somebody else can’t find something. It’s MY workspace, optimized for me.
This is a cool series. It's almost like watching a pinball machine being made from scratch.
This series is going to be one of my favorite of the channel, I can tell already! Great job!
And Ron said, Let there be light! And so it was! You and Joe have a nice weekend!
That's a perfectly appointed work area, you guys know exactly where everything is 👍
Power supply Power supply Power supply people!! Ya'll know the mantra cmon now 😁
Ah, yes, the "Archeological Order" sorting system: new stuff on the top, old stuff on the bottom, with occasional gaps from erosion.
Repairing old pinballs machines is already magic, but seeing them being rebuild from scratch step ny step is even more magical ... Pretty sure the universe is pleased !
Power supply, power supply, power supply. You got that right Ronnie. Joe would approve all this. Great project. …looking forward to what’s coming.
Thanks for taking the time to record and explain all this Ron. You are one smart dude! Cheers from Canada.
Getting closer! Power up! lights up!
The Internet is way too good at tracking people down.
Shes alive....ALIVE ! I Thanks guys x
Get your pitchforks, we're gonna get him right Jeff!
Yourself and Joe really good at explaining things . You have inspired so many of us to work on our own stuff ( including myself ) .
Thanks to the Lyons brothers for all you do for us !
The odyssey continues! 😊 Thanks so much!
Nice work!! So the Flight 2000 had a transformer from a Bally Dolly Parton machine.......guess someone must've been parton out that one!! 😁
Great stuff and thanks for posting Ronnie! ❤ regards
What an awesome video!
Faaaaaaantastic!
Built a fricken power supply from spare parts. Crayzee!
thanks for a intresting video.
i kinda like the old school and the solidstate ones as well.
👍👍👍🇸🇪🇸🇪🇸🇪🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇸🇪🇸🇪🇸🇪
I appreciate the videos, the way you explain things is so helpful. I struggle with schematics so watching your vids really helps. Thanks man, keep up the good work and know that we appreciate you both
Glad that Ron is back
I never left!
Perfect Friday unwind! Will you be doing more amateur repair videos ? Asking for a fan ;)
Yes I will!
E used to be used for the symbol for Voltage
E = Electromotive Force
I would assume that's why they're labeled E1 E2 etc.
You should use a flat bar and thermal paste. Anything less is not advisable.
The bridge rec is a much better idea
ok
That aluminum bar seems perfect. Aluminum conducts heat WAAAAY better than steel or iron. If the bar is too thin it's pretty easy to keep the legs of the rectifiers a little long so you don't have to flex the board much
Pretty sure you guys could be given a piece of cardboard and a marble and end up with a Stern or Bally machine.
Line voltage depends on you distance from a local transformer. In order that the last home on the line get 115 the first home may get 130 or more. You can even buy equipment that drops you home voltage to save you energy if you happen to be very close to a transformer station.
JOE, The display voltage is 180vdc on the TP Test Point but the other board will have a capacitor that will increase the 180vdc to 240vdc. I wonder why they made it increase to 240vdc and then decrease back down to 180vdc? It seems that the game designers rectified the 180vdc (unregulated/unrectified) to get 240vdc ( regulated/rectified ) but then adjusted it back down to 180vdc (rectified/regulated)?
It actually does matter in a big way if you had left the link between 9 and 11 engaged. It would create a short between that tap on each coil, which could cause some unexpected results, particular on voltages on the secondary side. There is also the possibility it could burn out the primry winding, on top of damage to the secondary side.
I don't usually like making corrective / negative sounding comments because your work is amazing and you know so much about this stuff. I just thought I'd mention that, in case others watching think it may not matter. If you look at the schematic of how the primary coil is connected, you'll see how it is working.
AFAIK _all_ the stress would be on the primaries. I would need to study the diagram closely to be sure but I don't think the secondary voltages would be significantly high. Of course the transformer would burn up if the fuse doesn't blow in time.
Yes, wires can be thicker after the transformer for 2 reasons. When you decrease the voltage with a transformer, you increase the current.
Then there is DC vs. AC. I don't know if this is 100% true, but DC is more eroding since the current only flows in one direction. AC doesn't damage it over time as much. But you will see that some things come with AC and DC ratings and the DC ratings may be lower.
Switches, fuses, breakers tend to have lower DC ratings than AC because sometimes there's an arc from current when opening the circuit. With AC, when the current goes from positive to negative and vise versa, it goes through zero current which makes it easier to stop the arcing than with DC which may never hit zero current.
It's really rare for actual metal migration to be a design consideration
@@UnreasonableSteve -- That makes sense. I do understand that solid-state pinball machines incorporate zero-crossing detection. That's just a full-wave rectifier, a resistor, and an inverter (to give a high output when the AC voltage dips).
Flat washers for heat sink.
I was worried when I saw the last video. But it's coming along nicely. I do like changing the bridges to the higher ones and mounting them on the topside. Great job so far. Looking forward the rest. Thanks for the videos.
I was curious why he ended up going back to refabricating the bar vs. changing out for bigger ones on the front? Weren't they old and a time bomb? Maybe it will be in a future video
@@JonS-TX I bet Ron can tell you the real reason. My hunch is that sometimes you find yourself not having the right parts for replacement. And there's a couple of people who will fall into the class of * if it's not broke don't fix it*. Also the big bridge rectifiers that you replace it with really kind of sit off the board. Very wonky. Aesthetically, the original parts fit and look a lot better. I'm good with whatever he does to get it working.
This video series is brought to you by...them good folks at De Walt.. now people if you wanna re-part shit in..don't settle for anything less...than a De Walt..who..unlike a certain 'red' brand tool series won't sponsor a Lyons video 😉😁
We need power Scotty!!
Wait... that's not right...
Er...
We need power Ronny!!
Yodelayheehoo
Say it! power supply, Power Supply, POWER SUPPLY! When is the release date for the gen-1 t-shirts? (lol)
Can you please tell me where to purchase and what the right name is of this product, the thermal grease that you used on the Bridge rectifier. Keep up the good work on bring back to life all these pinball machines from the grave.
Thanks Keith
It's called thermal grease or thermal paste. There are tons of different variations but all of them will be fine here.
E stands for Electomotive Force
Hey Ron, I really appreciate your videos! Making all that content really makes repair accessible for noobs like me. I do have a question: if my voltages on TP1 on my power supply/rectifier board are low according to chart, where do I start to look to adjust/correct? This is for a Paragon:
TP1: 1.6 VDC (low according to chart)
TP2: 245.50 VDC 👍🏻
TP3: 14.40 VDC (high)
TP4: 6.42 VAC 👍🏻
TP5: 44.80 VCD 👍🏻
I have now lost both my GI and my switched lamps and I am struggling to diagnose this issue properly.
Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
You should still have your general illumination since test point 4 is correct, but you may have bad connections or burnt up connections on that long connector on there.
That first test point is fuse 1, and bridge rectifier 1. That bridge rectifier is probably burnt up and open, or not making good contact to the board, etc.
@@LyonsArcade I’ll check again. Thanks Ron. Appreciate the help. 🙏🏼
Lost World Frankenstein need a large lightning rod on the building to fire it up 🌩
I cannot imagine how you are going to get that back box to work with the Lost World back glass. Looking forward to next part to see.
I find your lack of faith disturbing 👾
Get him Darth
@@vicferrarisgarageThis will be a video long remembered
Could probably build a new one from scratch - cut a piece of plywood with the lamp/display holes in the correct locations and either swap over parts or just replace them with an LED retrofit kit.
Hey Ron!!
Yeah. Someone took a machete to the machine those parts came out of. You get the people who take one look at any machine that doesn't work for the most minor reason they don't understand, they $ee dollar signs and then the machete comes out so they can get maximum price out of every single little part... muny in bank, so they think. At least it wasn't a worse situation where someone who knows nothing about it has severe, common, anti-junk "pseudo OCD" that results in violent Tourettetic rejection of anything they can possibly confuse for junk.
Even if they could hire someone who'd gladly handle the stuff for them so they'd make some money they'd just want it in the trash! (they do this 'cant handle junk, cant handle junk!' then comes foot-stamp foot-stamp twitch-twitch and they send it off to get completely destroyd); when there's nothing even clinically wrong with that person! And afterword nothing at all happened in the now empty space; except there's a comically large, expensive, mostly empty desk with an over- priced computer on top of expensive flooring in an otherwise large, totally empty space with expensive dot com windows and lighting.
And THEN you get people who are stuck in between the monolithic "serial-emptier" type and logistics and lack of resources. Under insane pressure they would rather hack away at the thing to save at least something (BECAUSE THEY KNOW IT'S ACTUALLY GOOD STUFF). I don't do pinball machines myself, but too many areas of other real tech suffer from this destructive bedlam so I feel your pain. 3D Printers can't fix everything (as I know that you know well), and not everyone is only into phones and drones and laptops, nor does everyone want a cold empty space to exist in. Sorry for the rant about how important stuff gets crudely hacked or just goes in the trash... but it's true.
Unless AC is required, why not make/use a switching supply with the proper V/I configuration?
Because that wasn't already sitting in the well organized parts bin. 🤣
ok
@@LyonsArcade ❤️🤣
That's not a setup you can find on an off-the-shelf supply and a custom built one would be prohibitively expensive.
I know who did it. He was going to sell it cause he was (BROKE)! 😅
I’m sure I’m at fault, but somehow I became unsubscribed. Happy I finally figured it out.