Thanks so much for watching! We noticed no resources for pontoon restoration HOW TO type videos a few years ago, so we started the channel covering the stuff we do daily. Fast forward to 300+ videos and we still have lots to cover!
I think I'm making my way through every single video you've made, I can't wait to spend way more money than I should, the problem with refurbing anything is once you put something new on, everything else looks ten times older than it ever did before you started! 😆
Thanks for watching the channel! Be sure to let me know if there's anything that I'm missing in the project that you'd like to see broken down in detail better. We're always looking for new topics and stuff that people need to see explained better.
Thank you. We are trying to make our restoration projects look as close to brand new boats as possible. Yes, we use 1/2” stainless staples every 8-12” around the edges of the vinyl. The deck trim will cover the staples.
I wish mine would have been that easy. My boat is a Lowe boat and with the rub rails on you have about a 1/2 gap to get your fingers in to bolt it down. My fingers got all scratched up doing it.
Yep, that is a serious issue with the U-shaped toons like Lowe and JC brands. I will sometimes look to other styles of deck trim for those boats where I can install the deck trim as the very last step, after the railings are on and electrical is run.
I like the looks of that new deck trim! I'm not liking those front corner pieces though, I would prefer something that matched the trim better. I'll bet you would also. The back corners look fine
I've never thought too much into it, but yes, there are definitely some more stylish options out there. Plus they're just trying to offer something universal to make everyone happy. The trouble with matching the caps to the trim affordably is that they'd almost have to be an extruded piece that's rolled to shape...and those styles I've seen in the past are always (seriously always) dented and beat up. The heavy duty cast caps from some of the big name boat brands are some sort of polished finish and match some of the curves of the deck trim, but boy are they expensive!!!
Yeah, not wanting to pay those higher prices for sure. You trimming that front trim up to meet the corner cap is a real nice extra step you’re doing for your customers.
@@J.W.W.thanks!! My goal is to make every boat I work on look like it came brand new from a big brand manufacturer. Thanks to Pontoon Stuff that’s possible!
Thank you! I’ve been meaning to cover this topic for a while now. It’s a common question from my customers about what can be done to replace the old nasty deck trim.
Hi Tom, been watching a lot of videos as I get prepared to completely redo my pontoon. Just waiting on the new fencing to arrive. Was curious what tool you use to cut the rub rails with. Thanks.
Thanks for watching the channel! I hope we have everything covered that you need help with. I usually either use my metal chop saw or an angle grinder with a metal cut off wheel.
It would be nice if the extruded aluminum rail could be ordered in 20 and 24 foot lengths. That would give it a more factory finish and eliminate seems mid ship?
Totally agree. The logistics on it would be impossible and expensive as it’s oversized freight, even for something that weighs 50#. I’d 100% guarantee it would arrive damaged 10/10 times.
Just a thought, is there a reason you don't bring the side trim all the way to just short of the corner and butt the back piece up to just short of the side piece? It would give the corner piece more support to rest on when you attach it. I'm anxiously awaiting my River and Banks shirt in 2XL, short sleeve. While waiting for that I'll buy you a coffee but even that should be something like " Buy River and Banks" a dog treat! Ian Rousseau does that in his shop for the "Shop Inspectors (his Pit Bulls)". Love the channel and I'm fixing up my 13 ft. Qwest pontoon right now.
In most cases bringing the trim that close to the corner will keep the corner cap from fitting all the way on properly to the plywood. It happens in the front too with the wide radius caps even. If the trim runs into the radius of the corner cap much at all it'll push it out away from the plywood making it less secure. We have a couple t-shirts in the works....one with the pups and another expressing the importance of the "anti-cavitation zone"!
Quick question - The website says the top is 2.75" on top. With the rail kit from Pontoon Stuff and an 8' wide deck, it seems like this would go under the rail/fence. Am I correct? If so, what is the solution? Do you have a video showing this rub rail along with the new fence/rail?
Correct. Most deck trim that I work with is about 2.5"-3" wide on top and the railings usually bolt through it. I'm working on a boat right now and will be doing an installation video of that railing kit on the original deck trim which the new railings sit on top of. You have to install the deck trim first, then work the railings on top of it, drilling your bolt holes through both the trim and plywood. It's an extra little work, but really not too bad.
I've been binge watching your videos, which have boosted my knowledge on the various techniques you use. I can't thank you enough. Keep them coming
Thanks so much for watching! We noticed no resources for pontoon restoration HOW TO type videos a few years ago, so we started the channel covering the stuff we do daily. Fast forward to 300+ videos and we still have lots to cover!
I think I'm making my way through every single video you've made, I can't wait to spend way more money than I should, the problem with refurbing anything is once you put something new on, everything else looks ten times older than it ever did before you started! 😆
Thanks for watching the channel! Be sure to let me know if there's anything that I'm missing in the project that you'd like to see broken down in detail better. We're always looking for new topics and stuff that people need to see explained better.
nice clean work ,I like that. do you use stainless steel staples when you tack the new vinyl woven flooring after gluing it down
Thank you. We are trying to make our restoration projects look as close to brand new boats as possible.
Yes, we use 1/2” stainless staples every 8-12” around the edges of the vinyl. The deck trim will cover the staples.
I wish mine would have been that easy. My boat is a Lowe boat and with the rub rails on you have about a 1/2 gap to get your fingers in to bolt it down. My fingers got all scratched up doing it.
Yep, that is a serious issue with the U-shaped toons like Lowe and JC brands. I will sometimes look to other styles of deck trim for those boats where I can install the deck trim as the very last step, after the railings are on and electrical is run.
I like the looks of that new deck trim! I'm not liking those front corner pieces though, I would prefer something that matched the trim better. I'll bet you would also. The back corners look fine
I've never thought too much into it, but yes, there are definitely some more stylish options out there. Plus they're just trying to offer something universal to make everyone happy. The trouble with matching the caps to the trim affordably is that they'd almost have to be an extruded piece that's rolled to shape...and those styles I've seen in the past are always (seriously always) dented and beat up. The heavy duty cast caps from some of the big name boat brands are some sort of polished finish and match some of the curves of the deck trim, but boy are they expensive!!!
Yeah, not wanting to pay those higher prices for sure. You trimming that front trim up to meet the corner cap is a real nice extra step you’re doing for your customers.
@@J.W.W.thanks!! My goal is to make every boat I work on look like it came brand new from a big brand manufacturer. Thanks to Pontoon Stuff that’s possible!
Good Job as Always
Thank you! I’ve been meaning to cover this topic for a while now. It’s a common question from my customers about what can be done to replace the old nasty deck trim.
Hi Tom, been watching a lot of videos as I get prepared to completely redo my pontoon. Just waiting on the new fencing to arrive. Was curious what tool you use to cut the rub rails with. Thanks.
Thanks for watching the channel! I hope we have everything covered that you need help with. I usually either use my metal chop saw or an angle grinder with a metal cut off wheel.
It would be nice if the extruded aluminum rail could be ordered in 20 and 24 foot lengths. That would give it a more factory finish and eliminate seems mid ship?
Totally agree. The logistics on it would be impossible and expensive as it’s oversized freight, even for something that weighs 50#. I’d 100% guarantee it would arrive damaged 10/10 times.
Just a thought, is there a reason you don't bring the side trim all the way to just short of the corner and butt the back piece up to just short of the side piece? It would give the corner piece more support to rest on when you attach it. I'm anxiously awaiting my River and Banks shirt in 2XL, short sleeve. While waiting for that I'll buy you a coffee but even that should be something like " Buy River and Banks" a dog treat! Ian Rousseau does that in his shop for the "Shop Inspectors (his Pit Bulls)". Love the channel and I'm fixing up my 13 ft. Qwest pontoon right now.
In most cases bringing the trim that close to the corner will keep the corner cap from fitting all the way on properly to the plywood. It happens in the front too with the wide radius caps even. If the trim runs into the radius of the corner cap much at all it'll push it out away from the plywood making it less secure. We have a couple t-shirts in the works....one with the pups and another expressing the importance of the "anti-cavitation zone"!
Quick question - The website says the top is 2.75" on top. With the rail kit from Pontoon Stuff and an 8' wide deck, it seems like this would go under the rail/fence. Am I correct? If so, what is the solution? Do you have a video showing this rub rail along with the new fence/rail?
Correct. Most deck trim that I work with is about 2.5"-3" wide on top and the railings usually bolt through it. I'm working on a boat right now and will be doing an installation video of that railing kit on the original deck trim which the new railings sit on top of. You have to install the deck trim first, then work the railings on top of it, drilling your bolt holes through both the trim and plywood. It's an extra little work, but really not too bad.