Just curious on the BTU versus the cooling capacity rating. In video you say around 15.5K BTU, but your website says cooling capacity is 3050W. Which is quite a lot less than 15.5K BTU? Am I missing something? Is this more or less powerful than the AC version Dometic FJX7 / Freshjet 3500?
Great catch! Yes, we are still awaiting final specs from Dometic, which is why we say in the video, “preliminarily.” Once we confirm all specs with Dometic, we will update the product page accordingly!
@@rackupgo excellent, looking forward to finding out for my new 48V van build for a trans Africa trip. was planning on the Dometic FXJ7 freshjet 3500 or this new model. Whichever would have the best performance.
@@MispronouncedAdventures As far as the comparison to the FJX7 3500W, cooling capacity will be very similar as the architecture of the two units is nearly the same aside from the power source.
Very interested just took delivery of my custom Sprinter van. Builder installed Dometic 2000 12v. I live in phx az and either it’s malfunctioning or just not capable of cooling in AZ. So your comment about using this in Death Valley is intriguing. Before my builder just replaces with another Dometic 2000, approx when will this be available and approx at what cost.
Cooling issues aren't just the system itself. The system is easy to check. A temperature sensor on the outlets to see what's coming out. However, The insulation is what truly matters trapping that cold air in. Do you cover your windows? Do you have good floor/wall insulation? Do you have thermal bridge issues?
Sweet! I have an EG-4 12k 28.5 Seer-2 mini split on the back of my MH powered by a 16.4kwh 48v battery. On hot days, I sometimes also run my front rooftop A/C, a soft start equipped 14.5k Furrion during the day. I have 4,400 watts of solar charging this battery bank which is sufficient to run both A/Cs and charge my battery at the same time. This unit looks Ideal to replace it with as that Furrion is a power hog drawing about 1,600 watts due to its relatively low EER of around 9. My question is what is the SEER-2 of this unit? Also, I've only got 32 inches between the square hole that my A/C protrudes through and the powered roof vent behind it. Will this clearance be sufficient, or must I install it backwards on my roof? I can do so because my solar array, which is racked 15" off my roof, drops down to meet the roof in the front, forming an air dam which would prevent any wind, bugs, etc. from damaging the coils as I drive down the road.
@@lukewoolfson on my system, I have a Zeus aux alternator. The aux alternator is wired to 4,12 volt AGM motorcycle batteries, they are connected to the EcoFlow 15kw battery bank/hub. That was done because the EcoFlow Hub has a limit of 60 watts for the additional alternator and this method works around that.
@@banginsteel4978 48 volt systems are more efficient in terms of power usage compared to lower voltage systems. This is especially important in off-grid setups where conserving energy is crucial. Many off-grid systems use 48-volt battery banks, which can directly power a 48-volt air conditioner without the need for voltage conversion, reducing energy loss. Higher voltage systems operate at lower currents for the same power output, which reduces the size of the wiring needed and minimizes heat generation. This can result in safer and more manageable electrical installations. Operating at higher voltages can help extend the life of the batteries by reducing depth of discharge cycles.
@rackupgo OK, I understand the efficiency side of what you've said. So, that means you have a 12 volt and a 48 volt system in your motorhome? Thanks for your response.
@@banginsteel4978 it seems more and more appliances are moving to 48 volt for the previously mentioned reasons. Naturally, first to market is the biggest power hog, air conditioning and heating. However, we’ve heard a lot of talk about 48 volt options in refrigeration and the like. In the meantime, converters are being utilized for the lower power draw items as the efficiency loss through conversion is not as big of a deal as it is with the higher draw items like a/c and heat
Cool! No, pun intended lol. I just converted to a 48v system on my rv. This AC could be on my upgrade list.
Very cool!
I’ve got a 24 V system in my van, 1620Wp that runs a 9000 BTU 22 seer mini split heat pump. It operates down to -5°F.
Awesome!
Great video! Very informative!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Just curious on the BTU versus the cooling capacity rating.
In video you say around 15.5K BTU, but your website says cooling capacity is 3050W. Which is quite a lot less than 15.5K BTU? Am I missing something?
Is this more or less powerful than the AC version Dometic FJX7 / Freshjet 3500?
Great catch! Yes, we are still awaiting final specs from Dometic, which is why we say in the video, “preliminarily.” Once we confirm all specs with Dometic, we will update the product page accordingly!
@@rackupgo excellent, looking forward to finding out for my new 48V van build for a trans Africa trip. was planning on the Dometic FXJ7 freshjet 3500 or this new model. Whichever would have the best performance.
@@MispronouncedAdventures As far as the comparison to the FJX7 3500W, cooling capacity will be very similar as the architecture of the two units is nearly the same aside from the power source.
Very interested just took delivery of my custom Sprinter van. Builder installed Dometic 2000 12v. I live in phx az and either it’s malfunctioning or just not capable of cooling in AZ. So your comment about using this in Death Valley is intriguing. Before my builder just replaces with another Dometic 2000, approx when will this be available and approx at what cost.
@@vanjovi we are still awaiting launch date and pricing from Dometic. We’ll update our website as soon as that info is available.
@@rackupgo Thank you !
Cooling issues aren't just the system itself. The system is easy to check. A temperature sensor on the outlets to see what's coming out. However, The insulation is what truly matters trapping that cold air in. Do you cover your windows? Do you have good floor/wall insulation? Do you have thermal bridge issues?
Sweet! I have an EG-4 12k 28.5 Seer-2 mini split on the back of my MH powered by a 16.4kwh 48v battery. On hot days, I sometimes also run my front rooftop A/C, a soft start equipped 14.5k Furrion during the day. I have 4,400 watts of solar charging this battery bank which is sufficient to run both A/Cs and charge my battery at the same time. This unit looks Ideal to replace it with as that Furrion is a power hog drawing about 1,600 watts due to its relatively low EER of around 9.
My question is what is the SEER-2 of this unit?
Also, I've only got 32 inches between the square hole that my A/C protrudes through and the powered roof vent behind it. Will this clearance be sufficient, or must I install it backwards on my roof? I can do so because my solar array, which is racked 15" off my roof, drops down to meet the roof in the front, forming an air dam which would prevent any wind, bugs, etc. from damaging the coils as I drive down the road.
How have you wired that up from the power hub via the battery port?
Great question! Here’s the link for the cable we used: rackupgo.com/products/ecoflow-power-kit-48v-cable
@@lukewoolfson on my system, I have a Zeus aux alternator. The aux alternator is wired to 4,12 volt AGM motorcycle batteries, they are connected to the EcoFlow 15kw battery bank/hub. That was done because the EcoFlow Hub has a limit of 60 watts for the additional alternator and this method works around that.
All the bells and whistles are fine. Can they make it reliable?
@@larryschleif5492 that’s the goal for sure! Have you had an experience to the contrary?
How large of an RV will this cool? Will it work on a class-c
15.5k btu is near or above the top end of what you see on even the largest RVs
15 footer in real hot temps
48 volt, why.
@@banginsteel4978 48 volt systems are more efficient in terms of power usage compared to lower voltage systems. This is especially important in off-grid setups where conserving energy is crucial.
Many off-grid systems use 48-volt battery banks, which can directly power a 48-volt air conditioner without the need for voltage conversion, reducing energy loss.
Higher voltage systems operate at lower currents for the same power output, which reduces the size of the wiring needed and minimizes heat generation. This can result in safer and more manageable electrical installations.
Operating at higher voltages can help extend the life of the batteries by reducing depth of discharge cycles.
@rackupgo OK, I understand the efficiency side of what you've said. So, that means you have a 12 volt and a 48 volt system in your motorhome?
Thanks for your response.
@@banginsteel4978 it seems more and more appliances are moving to 48 volt for the previously mentioned reasons. Naturally, first to market is the biggest power hog, air conditioning and heating. However, we’ve heard a lot of talk about 48 volt options in refrigeration and the like. In the meantime, converters are being utilized for the lower power draw items as the efficiency loss through conversion is not as big of a deal as it is with the higher draw items like a/c and heat
@rackupgo Makes sense, thanks for the education!
@@banginsteel4978 here to help if/when you need us!