Nice little grinder👍 looks like a very universal setup. Just a note. Not all saws have evenly spaced cutting edges. Most are offset a few degrees from one another to reduce the chance of chatter. It's often not noticeable by eye. I've sharpened them the same as you just showed in the past. The finger rest needs to be on the tooth your grinding. It makes the setup harder but is the proper way in most cases. I like the jig for the single flute cutters. 👍 Thanks for sharing
Hi Steve, thanks for your comments. I will keep your suggestions in mind. The table saw blade you commented on was a flat top blade, although as you mentioned there could be a slight taper, totally dull, so that is why I tried this technique. All of my other blades are ATB and would require grinding every other tooth at one angle and then changing to the other angle. Beyond my pay grade at this time. With the exception of a couple of shell endmills all of my sharpening is on already worn out cutters so nothing is lost if I goof.
Donald Yungling Hi I would like to get in touch with you, I bought the same machine and I am looking for some spare roller bearings for the table. My email ceesweerheim@gmail.com
Hello The video is very helpful in understanding the range of possibilities of this machine. I also have exactly the same machine The main use is sharpening drills It is without a doubt an important tool for a mechanical workshop
i'm a tool and cutter grinder. you will achieve better concentricity if you bring the wheel up over the top and grind the flute that the finger is engaged in. dress the bottom of the wheel flat first. That 5c to r8 adaptor is awesome by the way
Thanks for the comments. I am a total beginner with the T and C grinder and I am hoping that those who know these machines can post videos of their use.
Just found your video, great overview. I just picked one of these up. I am missing the drill sharpener attachment. Would you be willing to share up close pictures of that? If so do you have contact info? Thank you and great work on the video.
I posted the few photographs I have to my Flickr page. I might be able to take some more photograph's in a week or two. www.flickr.com/photos/30791315@N02
That is one handy, versatile tool. “Borrowed from Dad”? Will he be asking for it soon? Looks like it fits real well and you have made improvements. Just saying.
I wouldn't index off any tooth but the one you're grinding. You're relying that the spacing of the teeth is perfectly equal. I would reverse the cutter direction. Put a hooked finger to get the finger out of the way of the grinding wheel. Set the finger on the center highth of the work head and under the tooth you're grinding . Use cup wheel and tilt the spindle head to the desired primary clearance angle . Tilt more for your secondary . This way you know your exact clearance angles . Adjust your wheel highth as necessary to get clearance to keep from hitting the tooth behind. This is the way I have done it for over fifty years. Nice grinder I have never seen before and I have seen a few.
Hi Donald. Great video and very informative. On your shelf there is a folder "Set up for grinding milling cutters" Is this available? and does this relate to the Astra machine? Thanks Rob
The booklet you saw is a generic guide put out by Brown and Sharpe. A lot of small photographs and several illustrations that may be useful. I think this is where I found the file. www.hobby-machinist.com/resources/set-ups-for-grinding-milling-cutters-ocrd-pdf.613/history It looks like you need to contribute to the forum to download files. There are some T and C manuals at Vintage Machinery.org, this is the Brown and Sharpe page. www.vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=2185&tab=3 Or email me dyungling at att dot net. It is a 9.3 meg pdf file.
Hi, thanks for posting the video. I have one of these machines but unfortunately I dont have any attachments that go with it. I wonder if you would be so kind as to show the method of mounting the stones on the shaft that has the taper? I am wanting to make some arbors but just dont know which way to go about it.
Hi Billy, at this time I cannot go out into the shop until my wife heals from a severe infection, another month at least. The taper is the mount for the stone adapters which uses a set screw in the center to retain. Some basic info here, www.lathes.co.uk/astraar5e/index.html.
Although difficult geometries, all well explained. Like it.
Hi from the UK, I just bought one of these excellent machines and love the single point sharpener attachment you made. Tjats really smart :)
Very good learned alot keep on with your good work
Willie South africa
I like your videos with your voice describing what you're doing. Nice job!
Great video.. Narration, explanation, etc. Not a lot of videos out on cutter grinding.. Steve has shared some great videos. Thanks for sharing.
Nice little grinder👍 looks like a very universal setup. Just a note. Not all saws have evenly spaced cutting edges. Most are offset a few degrees from one another to reduce the chance of chatter. It's often not noticeable by eye. I've sharpened them the same as you just showed in the past. The finger rest needs to be on the tooth your grinding. It makes the setup harder but is the proper way in most cases. I like the jig for the single flute cutters. 👍 Thanks for sharing
Hi Steve, thanks for your comments. I will keep your suggestions in mind. The table saw blade you commented on was a flat top blade, although as you mentioned there could be a slight taper, totally dull, so that is why I tried this technique. All of my other blades are ATB and would require grinding every other tooth at one angle and then changing to the other angle. Beyond my pay grade at this time. With the exception of a couple of shell endmills all of my sharpening is on already worn out cutters so nothing is lost if I goof.
Donald Yungling
Hi I would like to get in touch with you, I bought the same machine and I am looking for some spare roller bearings for the table.
My email ceesweerheim@gmail.com
Use offset from centerline of cutter to achieve angle there are charts. Allso dia of tool determines angle of cutting primary
Hello
The video is very helpful in understanding the range of possibilities of this machine.
I also have exactly the same machine
The main use is sharpening drills
It is without a doubt an important tool for a mechanical workshop
i'm a tool and cutter grinder. you will achieve better concentricity if you bring the wheel up over the top and grind the flute that the finger is engaged in. dress the bottom of the wheel flat first. That 5c to r8 adaptor is awesome by the way
Thanks for the comments. I am a total beginner with the T and C grinder and I am hoping that those who know these machines can post videos of their use.
Just found your video, great overview. I just picked one of these up. I am missing the drill sharpener attachment. Would you be willing to share up close pictures of that? If so do you have contact info? Thank you and great work on the video.
I posted the few photographs I have to my Flickr page. I might be able to take some more photograph's in a week or two. www.flickr.com/photos/30791315@N02
@@donaldyungling3153 Thank you, I appreciate the existing photos. Additionally any others if you get the chance. Respectfully -Term
Hello Don from Aus. I like your vid and now I see you are a steam nut like me. All the best BC.
That is one handy, versatile tool.
“Borrowed from Dad”?
Will he be asking for it soon? Looks like it fits real well and you have made improvements.
Just saying.
I wouldn't index off any tooth but the one you're grinding. You're relying that the spacing of the teeth is perfectly equal.
I would reverse the cutter direction. Put a hooked finger to get the finger out of the way of the grinding wheel. Set the finger on the center highth of the work head and under the tooth you're grinding . Use cup wheel and tilt the spindle head to the desired primary clearance angle .
Tilt more for your secondary . This way you know your exact clearance angles . Adjust your wheel highth as necessary to get clearance to keep from hitting the tooth behind.
This is the way I have done it for over fifty years. Nice grinder I have never seen before and I have seen a few.
Thanks for the input. I haven't used this machine except for grinding lathe tools, maybe next summer I will take up tool grinding again.
Hi Donald. Great video and very informative. On your shelf there is a folder "Set up for grinding milling cutters" Is this available? and does this relate to the Astra machine? Thanks Rob
The booklet you saw is a generic guide put out by Brown and Sharpe. A lot of small photographs and several illustrations that may be useful. I think this is where I found the file.
www.hobby-machinist.com/resources/set-ups-for-grinding-milling-cutters-ocrd-pdf.613/history
It looks like you need to contribute to the forum to download files.
There are some T and C manuals at Vintage Machinery.org, this is the Brown and Sharpe page.
www.vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=2185&tab=3
Or email me dyungling at att dot net. It is a 9.3 meg pdf file.
Hi, thanks for posting the video. I have one of these machines but unfortunately I dont have any attachments that go with it. I wonder if you would be so kind as to show the method of mounting the stones on the shaft that has the taper? I am wanting to make some arbors but just dont know which way to go about it.
Hi Billy, at this time I cannot go out into the shop until my wife heals from a severe infection, another month at least. The taper is the mount for the stone adapters which uses a set screw in the center to retain. Some basic info here, www.lathes.co.uk/astraar5e/index.html.
Interesting video and tool
Bonjour, je possède la même machine Elite, le seul accessoire que je n'ai pas c'est pour affûter les forets !!!! (dommage)