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How was the client when you took away the far socket, personally I would contact them before I would do that in case they said no, save the hassle of arguments. Great videos mate love watching all the new tools and gadgets you have now days, now I know why Bundy wars that Batman hat. ( Where dose he get those wonderful toys. Jack Nicholson in Batman )
I use a Megger MFT1552 which I bought second hand. It was calibrated when I bought it but that has since expired. Watching out for my local CEF doing a calibration day. Besides that I’ve got a good multimeter and many of the tools recommended by you, Artisan and others. As others have mentioned, it’s hard to find a good local spark who I would trust more than myself. It’s not that I think I know better than a professional spark but I don’t need to make a profit and can take all the time I want and make improvements as I learn new things. I can also spend some of the money I save on labour on better materials and tools. I have a degree in electrical engineering but more importantly I’ve been an electronics hobbyist since I was a child and I love to learn new things from the likes of John Ward and of course you guys. Thanks for doing what you do. 👍
I bet you would love the opportunity to learn this more formally like an electrical apprentice would and you would run through the material quickly. There is nothing that caters for professionals like yourself. Plus your level of engineering knowledge is probably far superior to many licensed and registered electricians. In the US you can do the electrical work on your own home as long as it’s permitted and inspected by the local jurisdiction authority . In fact electricians work have also to be inspected. So while there is little residential testing (other than fault finding) when installing here in the USA following the regulation standard rigorously and inspection would pick-out poor practice by professionals and DIYers. Of course that all depends on how good the local inspection regime is.
Let's be honest, to someone of your education level, house bashing isn't exactly rocket science, I don't see a problem with it, its when people with no knowledge or experience start playing about with electrics where the danger is
This is pretty much me, but in my case I bought a calibrated Megger tester , did my testing to ensure everything was 100%, then sold it on for pretty much the same price, just with ~1 month less certification time remaining.
@@asdreww That was my original intention but I’ve got a few other projects coming up which will benefit from the MFT and I’m planning to do a full check of all the existing circuits in the house. Now I’ve learned how to use the MFT I feel a bit blinded without it. I paid something like £350 for it which was a big chunk of what I probably saved in labour for the project I bought it for, but the more use I get out of it the better that value becomes. Gone are the days when a neon screwdriver was sufficient! 😂
Craig, I'm exactly the same as you (although not an electrical engineer). I have been keen on home electrics for years and when retired I worked as a mate for a couple of years - loved it - every day a school day. I have all the theory from JW, SparkyNinja, GSH, Joe Robinson, Slavery etc but lack the practical experience that an apprentice would get. I also bought a second hand Fluke (now out of calibration) and know how to use it. I do some stuff for friends etc and my standard of work and safety is a lot higher than some of the botched jobs I've seen on this channel and others.
At the end of day we can never stop diyers doing their own electrics, its not possible, certainly not with the current system in place (no pun intended) The best we can hope for is the diyer finds a channel like yours and then they will have a good idea on how to do their work safely.
I bought an insulation resistance tester from China - ok no calibration certificate with it but better than nothing (I tested it by shorting out a complete 100m reel of cable and comparing the resistance displayed to the calculated value for 100m of 2.5sqmm). And also a standard multimeter, and one of those socket testers that also does a basic loop and rcd test. I made a rewirable plug fitting up to connect to the instruments so I could test at each socket etc. Theres no real excuse for not doing at least some basic tests rather than just throwing stuff in and turning it on - pretty sure my IR tester, socket tester and multimeter were less than £100 combined cost.
Word of advice, always find the shutoffs for the house before you do any drilling or cutting. Just in-case. You will never believe how much liquid will come out while you are running around trying to find the shutoff! Just a bit of advice from experience! 🤦♂️🍻
When I rewired my house back in 1982, when you could, I measured everything with my trusty multimeter - hand built by me to a design and kit published in Practical Wireless Magazine. Then I used one of those plug in testers with 3 neons to confirm all the sockets correctly connected. Finally I fed all power to the consumer unit through an ELCB (RCD now of course) which never tripped except on deliberate test. Couldn't afford a megger at the time, but I was happy that the multimeter confirmed no unwanted contact between conductors.
Whilst the three neon sockets are a handy tool for general diagnostics they can’t check for a earth / neutral being reversed. The reason for that is also a good checker of how much someone understands electrical theory from a have a go DIYer point of view.
Ah ... Practical Wireless was a great magazine... great projects of varying degrees of sophistication catering for all levels of knowledge & building skills... Of course it was all mostly descrete thru-hole components & very little ICs then... no SMD "rice-grains" like we have now... and remember real solder ? None of that lead-free shit... happy days !! 😎👍☘🍺
25£ Uni-T clamp meter and cheapo Multimeter called "AstroAI DM6000AR" from Amazon, also 25£. Both work great they are cheap but not as cheasy as you might expect. I bought that specific multimeter because it was recommended over other cheap meters. It has CAT 3 up to 600V, beefy protection fuses inside and is pretty accurate. I dont mess around enough with house wiring to justify more.
Don't limit yourself to 16A on a 2.5 radial. Use a 20A or 25A depending on the brand of board you have. That will be plenty for a first floor circuit. One solution (though not ideal) to your spur issue is to put the long spur off a spur off a spur onto a 13A FCU. Thus all sockets are limited to a maximum load of 13A.
Twisted to ensure no movement once screw is tightened. This was how we were trained to do it back in 1976 and I am not aware of any of our installations suffering an electrical fire that could be pinned upon poor electrical installation. How many of us have just inserted the wires into the terminal and tightened the screw only to find that one wire escapes the joint? Years ago it was all to do with doing the job correctly and safely. For the last few years it seems to me that it is about speed and cost so do not knock what we old buggers did as I still say that costs now override safety. Companies do not care because after the ten year housebuilding guarantee is up liability is gone.
Thank you for a lovely real world video. Educational warts and all as to finding the incomplete ring. How do you quote for something like that, do you just have to have enough in the original or is it day rate for unforeseen items
I notice that when you install power points you have the earth at the top. Why is that - is a regulation in the UK? In Australia the earth is always at the bottom so if the cord is hanging from the socket the earth is the last contact.
Klein tools makena lineman type pliers that are real good at twisting and un twisting those wires. I admit I'm new to your channel and to British wiring. I'm fascinated and would be willing to send you a pair of my favorite pliers. I was curious do you have a tools of the trade video where we see in to your tool bag? Thank you for taking the time to show this, I am enthralled and learning so much. Rob. (Reply and I'll give my email)
Loving the videos atm keep them coming 👍🏻 Just a thought could you of not picked the rest of that bedroom up on the ring main and then come off your last socket to a 13a Un switched fused spur to feed the sockets downstairs if there isn’t that many? Obviously Dependant on the load downstairs!
Maybe if more professionals were like you & actually professional. Seen as many videos where an electrician has done terrible work & been paid for it. The last eicr done by my landlord was a joke, not one single socket tested as they were all inaccessible apparently. (there's only 11 sockets in the house outside of the kitchen ffs) same sparky then put a spur on a spur & didn't realise how the house was wired until I told him it was a ring upstairs with spurs coming down into each room downstairs & he only did a very quick test at the end Same with the asbestos survey that said no asbestos loft not checked as no crawling boards. Errr 2" thick chipboard walkway round the perimeter leading the asbestos water tank ffs. I just got 5 quotes for a Hypervolt EV charger all given the same details one was £1100, £1200, £800 & £677 the last quote was from the better company with a lot of recommendations. Anyway the point was we need more better trades people then maybe diyers will be less tempted to bodge stuff up. I'm sure the more able diyers probably do but test equipment too esp now it's easy to find this stuff unlike back in the day
We would in the States put metal plates at the point of the joists where cable is pulled through ensuring no drilling damage and additional mechanical protection.
Now days some one invented ferrules and when you open a socket up with 4 L, 4N and 4 CPC all ferrulled together ( don't know if ferrulled is a word ), that makes like really easy 🤯
@@stuarth540 yes in my days they were not around or used ( I never seen them)…but we were told as apprentices make sure everything was mech strong , twisted together gave the socket screws better biting contact .. rather than pushing to single cables in together …
I was also taught and pack the connection out. I think its best. for two reasons 1st in a ring circuit the ring will continue with full cable overload protection should the connection become loose 2nd The connection is less prone to arc if loose. Than when single cores are pushed in and become loose. I wonder if the more recent way is the reason there seems to be more concern for fire protection
Hey Chris is James on holiday or what?? this is a job that he would have benefited from as I must say you are my favourite sparky channel and it is good to see him getting really good work practices from you.😉 Oh, and yes I remember my late Dad and I used to blunt nails as well to stop wood from splitting.
Could you see the last spur off spur? could have pulled the ring out of the socket to extend and re joined the ring to the last spur. i always spin the screws on reverse to part pilot the hole and then screw it in, seems to work for me.
for 10 minutes more work and 1 extra cable run,wouldn't it have been better to add the existing spured socket onto the ring,leaving only the downstairs socket as a spur
I think I would have considered putting that bedroom socket onto the ring keeping the layout logical. Then the 12 sockets downstairs could be thrown on an A2 back to the cu. Even if not done today
This is exactly what I do when you can't be sure of routing, wires going through walls with insulation etc. can make rating factors really throw circuits out. Even this isn't entirely fool proof, merely a good chance of being safer.
Am I having a dump moment or shouldn't there be 4 cables at the socket to extend the ring not 3, you should have 2 new legs and the 2 old at the existing socket then joined 1 old leg with 1 of the new ones just adding the one cable has just done the same as the previous spark and just spured off a spur with the 2 new sockets
He re-routed one of the legs to extend the ring to include the two new sockets and left the spur alone for further discussion with the customer. He could have brought the existing socket on to the ring and shortened the spur, but then he would have made an alteration and would be responsible for the spur connected to who knows how many additional spurs.
I’m also confused here. Did he do something outside of the socket ? Otherwise how is that existing first spurred socket now being fed ? I understand that he rerouted one of the legs but he still had three cables in the back of the socket. I wish he’d shown the finished socket. Did he add the new leg that he drew in to the two new sockets inside that socket box, take one of the original legs out of the socket completely, wago it to the return leg under the boards and kept the original spur also within the socket ? That would make sense but for such a good explanatory video he missed a crucial step !
Yeah just the fact if a homeowner diy carried out the work I did would they have found the circuit to not be a ring they would have just carried on and used it.
Hi Chris, Is there a way for a home owner to get a copy of the EICR paperwork, I am buying a house there is no EICR paperwork from the vendor but I know the CU was changed 5 years ago and new lines added?
@@daviesswanseaboy7158 that’s correct the higher voltage is needed to produce a dielectric effect sufficient to measure continuity or insulation resistance in the case of that test currents are very low in those circumstances and then machine tabulates according to Ohms law the resistance values. For an insulation resistance test very low current and high voltage should give resistance in the many Megohms (millions of ohms) for a good cable condition with insulation.
Guys please take some time to learn more about Prysmian and their awesome company.
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Cable's cable.
How was the client when you took away the far socket, personally I would contact them before I would do that in case they said no, save the hassle of arguments. Great videos mate love watching all the new tools and gadgets you have now days, now I know why Bundy wars that Batman hat. ( Where dose he get those wonderful toys. Jack Nicholson in Batman )
Huh?
@@Cjrelectrical In your video you took away a socket from the upstairs bedroom as it was a spur. Was the client ok with that
I didn’t remove a socket bud
I use a Megger MFT1552 which I bought second hand. It was calibrated when I bought it but that has since expired. Watching out for my local CEF doing a calibration day. Besides that I’ve got a good multimeter and many of the tools recommended by you, Artisan and others.
As others have mentioned, it’s hard to find a good local spark who I would trust more than myself. It’s not that I think I know better than a professional spark but I don’t need to make a profit and can take all the time I want and make improvements as I learn new things. I can also spend some of the money I save on labour on better materials and tools.
I have a degree in electrical engineering but more importantly I’ve been an electronics hobbyist since I was a child and I love to learn new things from the likes of John Ward and of course you guys.
Thanks for doing what you do. 👍
I bet you would love the opportunity to learn this more formally like an electrical apprentice would and you would run through the material quickly. There is nothing that caters for professionals like yourself. Plus your level of engineering knowledge is probably far superior to many licensed and registered electricians. In the US you can do the electrical work on your own home as long as it’s permitted and inspected by the local jurisdiction authority . In fact electricians work have also to be inspected. So while there is little residential testing (other than fault finding) when installing here in the USA following the regulation standard rigorously and inspection would pick-out poor practice by professionals and DIYers. Of course that all depends on how good the local inspection regime is.
Let's be honest, to someone of your education level, house bashing isn't exactly rocket science, I don't see a problem with it, its when people with no knowledge or experience start playing about with electrics where the danger is
This is pretty much me, but in my case I bought a calibrated Megger tester , did my testing to ensure everything was 100%, then sold it on for pretty much the same price, just with ~1 month less certification time remaining.
@@asdreww That was my original intention but I’ve got a few other projects coming up which will benefit from the MFT and I’m planning to do a full check of all the existing circuits in the house. Now I’ve learned how to use the MFT I feel a bit blinded without it. I paid something like £350 for it which was a big chunk of what I probably saved in labour for the project I bought it for, but the more use I get out of it the better that value becomes. Gone are the days when a neon screwdriver was sufficient! 😂
Craig, I'm exactly the same as you (although not an electrical engineer). I have been keen on home electrics for years and when retired I worked as a mate for a couple of years - loved it - every day a school day. I have all the theory from JW, SparkyNinja, GSH, Joe Robinson, Slavery etc but lack the practical experience that an apprentice would get. I also bought a second hand Fluke (now out of calibration) and know how to use it. I do some stuff for friends etc and my standard of work and safety is a lot higher than some of the botched jobs I've seen on this channel and others.
Switch off power, throw B&Q electrical aisle at your house. Switch power back on; no bang = pass, bang = fail
James is always needed and missed, can't underestimate a good apprentice
Best electrician on you tube by a country mile
Nice tip re the screws and splitting the wood! 👍🏾
At the end of day we can never stop diyers doing their own electrics, its not possible, certainly not with the current system in place (no pun intended) The best we can hope for is the diyer finds a channel like yours and then they will have a good idea on how to do their work safely.
What makes you think that was DIY? With the earth twists on the JBs I would say that's a sparkies work.
Its the incompetent DIYers that probably keep a lot of sparks in a job... 😏
Where’s James Chris hope you are doing well mate Thankyou for all your regular posts we appreciate all that you do.
love the wee faces on the back of the box, will give a future spark a giggle.
Better than blunting the tip of screw for not splitting the floorboards is to drive the screw in reverse before screw it properly.
I bought an insulation resistance tester from China - ok no calibration certificate with it but better than nothing (I tested it by shorting out a complete 100m reel of cable and comparing the resistance displayed to the calculated value for 100m of 2.5sqmm).
And also a standard multimeter, and one of those socket testers that also does a basic loop and rcd test.
I made a rewirable plug fitting up to connect to the instruments so I could test at each socket etc.
Theres no real excuse for not doing at least some basic tests rather than just throwing stuff in and turning it on - pretty sure my IR tester, socket tester and multimeter were less than £100 combined cost.
Word of advice, always find the shutoffs for the house before you do any drilling or cutting. Just in-case. You will never believe how much liquid will come out while you are running around trying to find the shutoff! Just a bit of advice from experience! 🤦♂️🍻
I enjoyed watching you working what went where, love the smiley faces on the back box washers...lol
TEST? what test... from what I've seen that's been done in 80-00ies: 1) run cables, 2) plug in, if works ok, 3) if blows fuse... put bigger fuse in :D
If that fails wrap fuse in tinfoil.
When I rewired my house back in 1982, when you could, I measured everything with my trusty multimeter - hand built by me to a design and kit published in Practical Wireless Magazine. Then I used one of those plug in testers with 3 neons to confirm all the sockets correctly connected. Finally I fed all power to the consumer unit through an ELCB (RCD now of course) which never tripped except on deliberate test. Couldn't afford a megger at the time, but I was happy that the multimeter confirmed no unwanted contact between conductors.
Whilst the three neon sockets are a handy tool for general diagnostics they can’t check for a earth / neutral being reversed. The reason for that is also a good checker of how much someone understands electrical theory from a have a go DIYer point of view.
Ah ... Practical Wireless was a great magazine... great projects of varying degrees of sophistication catering for all levels of knowledge & building skills...
Of course it was all mostly descrete thru-hole components & very little ICs then... no SMD "rice-grains" like we have now... and remember real solder ?
None of that lead-free shit... happy days !!
😎👍☘🍺
Metal conduit box lids over the joists cable routes for added protection. Guaranteed a chippy puts a screw right through those cables.
We used to mark the floors
50mm depth. Not likely.
That's 50mm of joist plus the floor board approx 19mm but mimimum of 15mm
Thats a 65mm screw
Use lineman pliers when you're working with twisted wires. A lot easier
Could chop in an unswitched spur next to that socket with three cables in it, then you can fuse down the radial bit to 13 Amps.
Good video as always
I use one of those fancy plugs with the 3 led lights and a neon screwdriver, all good here.
Lol.. 🤣
I’ve got one of those pen tester things, lights up when live. Seems to do the job.
25£ Uni-T clamp meter and cheapo Multimeter called "AstroAI DM6000AR" from Amazon, also 25£. Both work great they are cheap but not as cheasy as you might expect.
I bought that specific multimeter because it was recommended over other cheap meters. It has CAT 3 up to 600V, beefy protection fuses inside and is pretty accurate.
I dont mess around enough with house wiring to justify more.
Nice job Chris
Don't limit yourself to 16A on a 2.5 radial. Use a 20A or 25A depending on the brand of board you have. That will be plenty for a first floor circuit. One solution (though not ideal) to your spur issue is to put the long spur off a spur off a spur onto a 13A FCU. Thus all sockets are limited to a maximum load of 13A.
Twisted to ensure no movement once screw is tightened.
This was how we were trained to do it back in 1976 and I am not aware of any of our installations suffering an electrical fire that could be pinned upon poor electrical installation.
How many of us have just inserted the wires into the terminal and tightened the screw only to find that one wire escapes the joint?
Years ago it was all to do with doing the job correctly and safely. For the last few years it seems to me that it is about speed and cost so do not knock what we old buggers did as I still say that costs now override safety.
Companies do not care because after the ten year housebuilding guarantee is up liability is gone.
We use an electrical tester, just like the pros :-)
A select few do use a proper tester but the majority perform the bang test
A mist superb job,as always bud.well done.
Thank you for a lovely real world video. Educational warts and all as to finding the incomplete ring. How do you quote for something like that, do you just have to have enough in the original or is it day rate for unforeseen items
You can get depth stops for quite a few multi tools.
Have you left James in the loft? Where’s James lol
I notice that when you install power points you have the earth at the top. Why is that - is a regulation in the UK? In Australia the earth is always at the bottom so if the cord is hanging from the socket the earth is the last contact.
fair play, you do good work.
Klein tools makena lineman type pliers that are real good at twisting and un twisting those wires.
I admit I'm new to your channel and to British wiring. I'm fascinated and would be willing to send you a pair of my favorite pliers.
I was curious do you have a tools of the trade video where we see in to your tool bag?
Thank you for taking the time to show this, I am enthralled and learning so much.
Rob.
(Reply and I'll give my email)
Loving the videos atm keep them coming 👍🏻 Just a thought could you of not picked the rest of that bedroom up on the ring main and then come off your last socket to a 13a Un switched fused spur to feed the sockets downstairs if there isn’t that many? Obviously Dependant on the load downstairs!
12 sockets 🤦♂️
Maybe if more professionals were like you & actually professional. Seen as many videos where an electrician has done terrible work & been paid for it.
The last eicr done by my landlord was a joke, not one single socket tested as they were all inaccessible apparently. (there's only 11 sockets in the house outside of the kitchen ffs) same sparky then put a spur on a spur & didn't realise how the house was wired until I told him it was a ring upstairs with spurs coming down into each room downstairs & he only did a very quick test at the end
Same with the asbestos survey that said no asbestos loft not checked as no crawling boards. Errr 2" thick chipboard walkway round the perimeter leading the asbestos water tank ffs.
I just got 5 quotes for a Hypervolt EV charger all given the same details one was £1100, £1200, £800 & £677 the last quote was from the better company with a lot of recommendations.
Anyway the point was we need more better trades people then maybe diyers will be less tempted to bodge stuff up. I'm sure the more able diyers probably do but test equipment too esp now it's easy to find this stuff unlike back in the day
Jordan is expensive
@@Cjrelectrical lol wasn't Including Jordan £1500 min too pricey for me 😉
We would in the States put metal plates at the point of the joists where cable is pulled through ensuring no drilling damage and additional mechanical protection.
DIY electrics here but that’s what I’ve done where previous sparky drilled too near top of joist
Top job chief
Nice video @cjrelectrical. Although, invest in some new long nose pliers, those ones, 6:30, are bent to f**k :-D
If I put a fork in it....
Wet my hands and touch metal sockets or switches.... I always get a warm fuzzy feeling
So where is James as you have not mentioned his disappearance.
@Ellis The DJ Yes could be ,but it would be good if Chris mentioned it as James is part of the team,
Why did you drill new holes? Couldn't you ah e used the existing ones or was it too tight?
Nice job has James gone or is he in collage
Is it not better practice to install radials now ?? Esp due to AFDD’s etc in future
That’s how it was done ( twisted cables ) in the old days 70s…
Now days some one invented ferrules and when you open a socket up with 4 L, 4N and 4 CPC all ferrulled together ( don't know if ferrulled is a word ), that makes like really easy 🤯
@@stuarth540 yes in my days they were not around or used ( I never seen them)…but we were told as apprentices make sure everything was mech strong , twisted together gave the socket screws better biting contact .. rather than pushing to single cables in together …
I was also taught and pack the connection out.
I think its best. for two reasons
1st in a ring circuit the ring will continue with full cable overload protection should the connection become loose
2nd The connection is less prone to arc if loose. Than when single cores are pushed in and become loose.
I wonder if the more recent way is the reason there seems to be more concern for fire protection
@@smclish totally agree with you
Hey Chris is James on holiday or what?? this is a job that he would have benefited from as I must say you are my favourite sparky channel and it is good to see him getting really good work practices from you.😉 Oh, and yes I remember my late Dad and I used to blunt nails as well to stop wood from splitting.
Used the search function on the ITS website but can’t find “a James” listed 🤔 Please advise.😊
Could you see the last spur off spur? could have pulled the ring out of the socket to extend and re joined the ring to the last spur. i always spin the screws on reverse to part pilot the hole and then screw it in, seems to work for me.
No complete ball ache
@@Cjrelectrical that is something to look forward to then.
Can you test circuits with eletrical items plugged in (not live) ?
I haven’t seen a broom 🧹 like that in a long time!! Does a witch 🧙♀️ live there??
Great job 😎
for 10 minutes more work and 1 extra cable run,wouldn't it have been better to add the existing spured socket onto the ring,leaving only the downstairs socket as a spur
12 sockets downstairs and a complete ballache to rectify
@@Cjrelectrical Ah,thought it was just the 1 socket down stairs
I think I would have considered putting that bedroom socket onto the ring keeping the layout logical.
Then the 12 sockets downstairs could be thrown on an A2 back to the cu. Even if not done today
Why would you downgrade to 16a not 20a?
This is exactly what I do when you can't be sure of routing, wires going through walls with insulation etc. can make rating factors really throw circuits out. Even this isn't entirely fool proof, merely a good chance of being safer.
How many just write down figures they know are compliant.
Where is james. ?
how to you rate the milwaukie gear compared to Makita chap?
Epic
Am I having a dump moment or shouldn't there be 4 cables at the socket to extend the ring not 3, you should have 2 new legs and the 2 old at the existing socket then joined 1 old leg with 1 of the new ones just adding the one cable has just done the same as the previous spark and just spured off a spur with the 2 new sockets
He re-routed one of the legs to extend the ring to include the two new sockets and left the spur alone for further discussion with the customer. He could have brought the existing socket on to the ring and shortened the spur, but then he would have made an alteration and would be responsible for the spur connected to who knows how many additional spurs.
I’m also confused here. Did he do something outside of the socket ? Otherwise how is that existing first spurred socket now being fed ? I understand that he rerouted one of the legs but he still had three cables in the back of the socket. I wish he’d shown the finished socket. Did he add the new leg that he drew in to the two new sockets inside that socket box, take one of the original legs out of the socket completely, wago it to the return leg under the boards and kept the original spur also within the socket ? That would make sense but for such a good explanatory video he missed a crucial step !
where's the question come up about homeowners/diy test their work? Have I missed a bit?
Yeah just the fact if a homeowner diy carried out the work I did would they have found the circuit to not be a ring they would have just carried on and used it.
i use a fluke 1653
Nice one, I had that one but now I have a 1662, basically the same meter
Another pissing contest amongst sparkies.
someone i know has done DIY work, and they never tested anything
can someone show the man how to untwist wires
Hi Chris, Is there a way for a home owner to get a copy of the EICR paperwork, I am buying a house there is no EICR paperwork from the vendor but I know the CU was changed 5 years ago and new lines added?
Sounds like no testing has been carried out.
With a multimeter. You don’t Need a big fancy £1000 tester to measure resistance.
But a multimeter will not do all the other tests required. Why have multiple testers when a MFT does all the testing needed?
A multi - meter won’t produce the “test voltage” needed 🤡
@@daviesswanseaboy7158 that’s correct the higher voltage is needed to produce a dielectric effect sufficient to measure continuity or insulation resistance in the case of that test currents are very low in those circumstances and then machine tabulates according to Ohms law the resistance values. For an insulation resistance test very low current and high voltage should give resistance in the many Megohms (millions of ohms) for a good cable condition with insulation.
@@daviesswanseaboy7158 mine does insulation test.
@@mathman0101 higher voltage for insulation tests only - continuity is elv
Anyone care to translate English English for a Yank? What room is the “lounge”?
Diyers stand back and say “good job my son”, that’s how they test their shitty work!