The "practice on plastic" advice is absolutely top notch. I used old margarine tub lids or anything similar as practicing on paper wasn't working for me. Really helped me improve.
I don't mind watching the application of decals. It's oddly satisfying because at that point the model kind of starts to come alive if that makes sense.
I love how this is all coming together. Your 1/72 is as good a fit as the 1/35. Different gaps, similar places. I wish I'd known about the filler you used as i lost some rivet detail.
I think your decision of relocating the Firefly decal with a better one actually because positioning it higher up on the hull means you don't have to try to blend the used and weathered look of the paint job to the brand new looking decal.
One trick you can use for that is to apply the decal, let it dry, then mist a very light coat of the underlying colour over it - takes that new, shiny look away.
I have several of these, and mine (which I got when it first came out) are crisply moulded with no visible faults. The three I have built, went together perfectly. The real machine was horrendously complicated mechanically. It makes me think of a castle tower on tracks. A very odd design, indeed.
Built one of these during lockdown. Happily I don't recall having as many problems with the quality of the mould as you did. Fiddly bugger to assemble as I recall but that was as much to do with my lack of dexterity as any failings with the kit. Oh except for fitting the guns which was an utter PITA!
Nice job, kits that don't fit properly are annoying as hell. With the airbrush, one of the best ways of keeping the tip clean is to keep the air on at all times and only pull back for paint, every so often you'll still have to blast it or clean the tip but no where near as much, has the added bonus of drying the paint on the model much quicker. When you need to stop the paint you push the trigger forward to stop the paint then release it. Learnt that from Airbrush Asylum, an Australian airbrush artist and looking at airbrush forums it seems to be a common technique among them, makes sense when you think about it. Stopping and starting the air and paint at the same time constantly will have significantly more paint build up and tip drying because when you just let go a big blob of paint is stuck on the needle and with no air to clear it, it just sits there and builds up.
Hi im a brush painter and use acrylic paint on models. I like how you paint light areas and leave shadows, can you do a video on how you do the mottling effect but with a paint brush please?
You did a great job with this rather poorly fitting kit. I have one of these too, in my stash, but it's the 1/35th scale version. I hope it goes together better than this one did!
I honestly don't know, I don't own any, but I imagine it should be possible if they contain oil paint. As for the remaining wash, I bought a load of those little condiment pots with the closeable lid you get from takeaway places and I put it in one of those so i can use it again. This kind of thing - amzn.to/3VE1HH5
The "practice on plastic" advice is absolutely top notch. I used old margarine tub lids or anything similar as practicing on paper wasn't working for me. Really helped me improve.
I'm glad to hear it 🙂
I do like the early tanks...and your amazing job!
Thanks, I'm glad you're enjoying it.
Another cracking video! Love your builds and dioramas along with the valuable advice you give out too. Thank you!!! 😁
Thanks mate 🙂
I don't mind watching the application of decals. It's oddly satisfying because at that point the model kind of starts to come alive if that makes sense.
Maybe I should do a video purely on application of decals and such..?
Great job mate. Looking forward to see the diarama 😅.
I love how this is all coming together.
Your 1/72 is as good a fit as the 1/35. Different gaps, similar places.
I wish I'd known about the filler you used as i lost some rivet detail.
I believe you can do similar with Tamiya filler, just thin it with white spirit and try it, but the Mr Dissolved Putty is great.
I think your decision of relocating the Firefly decal with a better one actually because positioning it higher up on the hull means you don't have to try to blend the used and weathered look of the paint job to the brand new looking decal.
One trick you can use for that is to apply the decal, let it dry, then mist a very light coat of the underlying colour over it - takes that new, shiny look away.
Loving the work so far 👌
Thanks, I appreciate it.
Another ace mate
😉👍
Thanks, I appreciate it 🙂
I have several of these, and mine (which I got when it first came out) are crisply moulded with no visible faults. The three I have built, went together perfectly.
The real machine was horrendously complicated mechanically. It makes me think of a castle tower on tracks. A very odd design, indeed.
That would make sense. Mine definitely show signs of mould wear.
Built one of these during lockdown. Happily I don't recall having as many problems with the quality of the mould as you did. Fiddly bugger to assemble as I recall but that was as much to do with my lack of dexterity as any failings with the kit. Oh except for fitting the guns which was an utter PITA!
1/72 scale seems to get smaller as one gets older... 😂
Nice job, kits that don't fit properly are annoying as hell.
With the airbrush, one of the best ways of keeping the tip clean is to keep the air on at all times and only pull back for paint, every so often you'll still have to blast it or clean the tip but no where near as much, has the added bonus of drying the paint on the model much quicker. When you need to stop the paint you push the trigger forward to stop the paint then release it. Learnt that from Airbrush Asylum, an Australian airbrush artist and looking at airbrush forums it seems to be a common technique among them, makes sense when you think about it.
Stopping and starting the air and paint at the same time constantly will have significantly more paint build up and tip drying because when you just let go a big blob of paint is stuck on the needle and with no air to clear it, it just sits there and builds up.
That's great advice, thanks. I tend to do something like that, but I'm not consistent with it. I'll give it a try 🙂
@@SteamGeezerUK Yeah it's hard to break the old habit especially with a small compressor. I'm not great at it either yet.
For a rather badly moulded kit, the finished article does look rather good.
Thanks, mate 🥰
Hi im a brush painter and use acrylic paint on models. I like how you paint light areas and leave shadows, can you do a video on how you do the mottling effect but with a paint brush please?
I've never actually done it with a paint brush, but it might be interesting to try. I can't make any promises, but I'll look into it.
@@SteamGeezerUKdidn’t you do it for your out the box build for charity think it was a. Spitfire
@@tcalcov I honestly don't remember. I'd have to go back and watch the video again... 🙂
You did a great job with this rather poorly fitting kit. I have one of these too, in my stash, but it's the 1/35th scale version. I hope it goes together better than this one did!
I saw they did a 1/35 version. I'm curious too if it's any different.
🤝👍
can i achieve this effect using oilbrushes by Mig? Where did you put the remaining wash after you covered your whippet?
I honestly don't know, I don't own any, but I imagine it should be possible if they contain oil paint. As for the remaining wash, I bought a load of those little condiment pots with the closeable lid you get from takeaway places and I put it in one of those so i can use it again. This kind of thing - amzn.to/3VE1HH5
When using the hairspray chipping method, can it be left a day or two before starting to chip or does it have to be done more or less straight away?
Technically it should work, but you might have to soak it more. I've left things overnight or longer before and it's worked fine.