I was just going to say, anyone who says stop wasting the water, it's from a ground water well 😂 most of the water especially used in the garden will just go straight back to there it came from 👊
Love your videos, my grandfather used to keep a gallon jug of water by the well, you prime it and then re-fill the jug for next time. He would put the cap back on the jug, to keep out mosquitos and leaves, and prevent evaporation.
I live in Australia. We have permanent water restrictions. Although its nice to see so much water Post 10 uses l get anxious when i see the hose running for hours 😂.
After You're done using the hand pump well, just fill up one of your buckets for the next time you need to prime the pump. Cover it to keep out mosquitoes.
Hi Post 10. Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge. I always learn something new watching your videos. I can't wait until you post an update on your garden. And I love watching the frog pond. You could probably live-stream the frog pond, it would be an instant hit!
In California and a couple of other states having a well is more expensive than city water. In California to drill or dig a water well you need to apply for a well permit. If granted one once your water system is installed you need to pay to have a water meter installed which is leased from the county or local water authority. With the meter California residents are required to pay a monthly water usage fee.
So 5 gal isn't to the brim but to the "first tab line down" (around the transition of the plastic above the handle). You can check by using a gallon jug to fill it of course. Makes sense as the lids for these are actually somewhat indented into the bucket too.
My cottage well stopped working and the well driller came and said that the pump got pinched by an earth quake. So he dropped a couple of caps down the well and separated the line from the broken pump. Then he pulled up the line and attached a new pump to the line and dropped it back down the well to just above the old pump. Standish, Sebago Lake, Maine. No problems. Wednesday, May 22, 2024.
If you want you could always use that propane tank gas water heater my friend post ten from Gabriella Rivas from Roslyn heights Long Island near New York City ❤❤❤❤❤
First thing to consider is the install cost. Private well usually 5-7K for new well, new city water installation runs 8-10K. Local city water/sewer bill here starts at $71 a month to have it on, neighboring town it's $48 a month. Pressure tank is basically like a battery. It should have 2lbs less air pressure than your cut off on your pressure switch (gray box on the front of tank, typically 30/50 or 40/60) I just replaced my tank and switch, did the work myself and cost around $350.
@DWKelly 75% of the city doesn't have sewer service available, they're on septic systems. Another town in the area is on private wells, but due being on a lake, they installed sewer main and forced everyone to hook up......and they all have curb stops to shut them off.
I also found from personal experience that plants grow better with well water compared to city water. My theory is that that well water is not treated with chemicals such as chlorine; and it may contain more minerals such as iron that may be beneficial to plants. In addition, I find that when I bathe with well water my hair is less frizzy and my skin looks better.
so much of the costs are about the original installation. For a deep well, it will be $5 - $10k including the pipe, tank, pressure switch, and labor. City water will be similar for the install (depending on distance to the street) but there will be a monthly fee. I ran into this dilemma a few years ago where my well kept running dry and I had nowhere to drill another well. Cost me $10k to bring in city water, but now it never runs dry. Bottom line is I now pay about $225 a year in water bills. The flip side is my electric is down about $5 a month and I have water if the power goes out. Not perfect, but I had few choices.
Yeah, Americans seem extremely resistant to flash water heaters. It's been around forever as a technology and current models are superior in every way that traditional water heaters, these are the crappy ones from the 1970's. Higher up front cost but cheaper TCO. Glad to hear you got one, it's rare in my experience.
For watering outside I'd say yes, but in the city at least by me I'd say it's cheaper. I only pay about a penny per gallon, where on a well you have the cost to install septic, possibly water softener and monthly salt and getting it pumped out every few years
I have a lot of iron in my water, but it doesn't bother me. I will Likely never install a softener. Anybody can drill a well and still have City sewer. But you are right, not all towns. Have a such thing as a sewage meter. Usually They assume all the city water is going into the sewer. Some nice towns will wave the sewer fee. If you can prove you're using it mostly outdoors. That's what my dad did. If you're actually getting it for a penny A gallon that's awesome
When I lived in Maryland (Baltimore county), the water bill was $3.15 for 3 months . In the summer, with watering the vegetable garden, it was $15 for 3 months.
@@post10Vlogs upstate ny here just me and wife used to be 175ish for 3 month 5+ years ago now hitting 225ish. Do use a good amount of water tho from dish's cook alot, and watering plants to get them established.
@post10Vlogs I can't recall when, but it has always Ben the cheapest County to live in. I will tell you that many, many years ago Baltimore City and Baltimore County have a deal (or contract)... Baltimore County gets their water from the Baltimore City. All the counties in Maryland have much higher water bills ( no contract with the City).
that monthly bill will vary quite a bit from one area to another. Here in Ct we have a base charge of a few bucks per month and additional fees of like $3 for each unit of water used. (unit = 742 gallons) Typical bill here is around $20+ a month.
I live in the country part outside of the town and now, only pay for the electric, not the water. Just not a good idea to use water when you lose POWER. So far, electric bill has been around $70 a month.
Do you have natural gas service out where you are, or would you need to run off propane if you ditched the electric water heater? Oil fired would definitely be a lot more expensive and the tank only lasts just so long no matter what the fuel source is. Propane isn't necessarily cheap either as an alternative to piped natural gas so it's kind of hard to say whether you'd save and if so how much. Making hot water with electricity is generally the most costly way to do it though.
Fuel oil water heaters are the most efficient and cheapest to run, but they cost over three thousand dollars to install. Propane is kind of even both ways. Mid range price to install mid range to run. I would need a propane tank. The house used to run off of propane, but when it was abandoned, someone stole the copper, so I never installed it again. I went to electric sense. That's what I used to do for a job
@@post10Vlogs An electric heat pump water heater might be a good option for you. They run about 1500-2k so more expensive than gas but less expensive than oil. The cost to operate is a lot lower than a traditional resistance-only electric heater, and it has the side benefit of acting as a dehumidifier for the space it's in, and also adding a little bit of ambient heat to the room.
With wells they can be cheap but also costly. But according to what your State regulations are. Some states may require you to get your water tested every year. If you don't they may condemn your well. Another thing that can change is if your state and county put in water. If the do most times they condemn wells automatically if they don't they will grandfather it in but may require more testing every year and if you miss your testing they will require you to change over to the county or city water.
In Maine it says to have your well water checked once a year for bacteria and nitrates and once every 5 years for arsenic, fluoride, uranium, radon, lead and manganese. But that is what I read from the state of Maine.
My Dad left us 3 houses. I had a water leak at one. No one lives there right now. The bill went from $20 every other month to $400. They are making us pay. The same thing happened at the house I currently live in, and the water company just made sure we were OK. Never made us pay a penny over our usage minus the leak. 🙄 2 houses in 2 different states handle things totally differently. Wells are much cheaper.
the charges are usually based on gallons of water metered into the property. 748 gallons = ONE (1) unit of water and average consumption is around ONE unit per week / per person, which includes bathing, toilets, drinking, washing machine, etc. The main issue with this billing system is watering your garden, where none of the water goes into the sewer... but you still get billed for it.
@@rupe53 been a while since I checked pretty sure 1 unit of water in my city is 1,000 gallons. sometime I need to recheck because if they reduce that it would appear to be using more units and cost more.
@@vontar1 I need to correct my prior post, but you can Google it. One unit is 100 cubic feet or 748 gallons. BTW, most water meters read on Cubic Feet, not gallons.
@@rupe53 i could be wrong as well. I have always considered what they told me when I signed up for service. the told me 1 unit was 1000 gallons, but that may not have been accurate. all these years I believed that was true here, but now i am wondering. :D
you should research bladders in pressure tanks, if pump goes on off every time you use water means its water logged and needs air in bladder up to 28 pounds?
Curious on the oil tank, was that for fuel oil or was coal just not a thing in those parts so was for heating oil? I owned a house built in the the late 19th century and it had a coal chute, never heard of home heating oil though given how cheap coal was.
My house isn't old enough to have run on coal. I used to live in an Apartment building from the twenties and it had three cool shoots and three coal rooms for the boilers. My dad's house from the nineteen forties also had one
Im not sure what you mean by "240v is "cheaper" to run"??? A 3/4HP 10 GPM Pump will consume approximately (~)600 Watts. Amps= Volts/Watts | Watts = Amps x Volts. A 120v 3/4 HP 10 Gallon/Min pump will consume 5amps @ 120V or ~600 Watts A 240v 3/4 HP 10 Gallon/Min pump will consume 2.5amps @ 240Volts or ~600 watts They will both consume ~600 Watts while running ... Your power company charges you for watts used per hour (in Kw/h) .. AKA they will cost the same in electricity charges.
240V means there would be less voltage drop or energy lost to overcoming resistance. 240V power circuits are preferred because fewer amps are required on start up
@@post10Vlogs I don't disagree that 240v is preferred here. But to say 240v is cheaper is not really accurate ... You would have to figure any cost difference between the 120v Pump v.s 240v pump, the wire run required/depth of the well and if you have 240v onsite. (If you dont then it wont be) Voltage drop is a factor of wire size / power factor/ voltage and amperage. Not just voltage. It would be more efficient (Cheaper) from a wire cost perspective to install 240v if the wire run is over about 140' B/c you could run cheaper 14awg wire and remain within the allowable voltage drop of the equipment. (say 3%) . Under 140' you could also run 14awg for a 120v pump though. This of course depends on the depth of your well. If the equipment was spec'd for 3% max allowable voltage drop assuming the power factor of both pumps was the same (say .85%) and the length of run was say 150' You could run 14awg for a 240v 3/4HP pump and would need 12 Awg for a 120v 3/4hp pump, 12awg wire over 150' 120v@5a has about a 2% voltage drop (117.6v) (0.1 Amps Lost) 14awg wire over 150' 240v@2.5a has about %0.8 voltage drop (237.12v) (.03amps Lost) Your net inefficiency between 240 and 120v would be about 0.07amps or about 8.4watts at 120V. If you are paying $0.15 a kilowatt hour for electricty and you run the pump365 days a year for 3 hours you would save $1.32 a year. If your wire run is over 140' and the 240v and 120v pump are the same efficiency wise and cost the same to buy then running 240v pump would be cheaper (about 1.32$ a year) If the 240v pumps costs just $13+ more and your wire run is less than 140' it would take you about 10 years to make up the difference. I dont know the cost of 120v vs 240 well pumps but the efficiancy/power factor of the pump makes a much bigger difference then the voltage when it come to most motors. A 120v .91% efficiant pump vs a 240v .85% pump would actually be more efficiant (cheaper to run) tthough that 120v pump would likely cost more... so you would need to do the math again. In a shallow well (irrigation type )scenerio, with a wire run under about 40' there would be virtually zero difference b/c the losses would be negligible. You could also upsize the wire and make the 120v MORE efficient then the 240 with smaller wire.. but again that wouldnt make sense without factoring in the cost of the wire... what im saying I guess is that its not just the voltage I understand why you didnt want to get into it in the video 🤣
Those people that are complaining about your water system clearly they have never lived in the country or on the well system
I was just going to say, anyone who says stop wasting the water, it's from a ground water well 😂 most of the water especially used in the garden will just go straight back to there it came from 👊
Beautiful yard and garden Post 10..You put alot hard work into it 👍
Love your videos, my grandfather used to keep a gallon jug of water by the well, you prime it and then re-fill the jug for next time. He would put the cap back on the jug, to keep out mosquitos and leaves, and prevent evaporation.
Post has the healthiest backyard I've seen in decades! Good for you Post!
I live in Australia. We have permanent water restrictions. Although its nice to see so much water Post 10 uses l get anxious when i see the hose running for hours 😂.
Well, the water looks refreshing. Love your homestead videos!
I live in a city so I'm on a sewer system. Always nice to see how people with wells work. Very interesting.❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
a sewer and a well are at opposite ends of spectrum.... literally. A well is FRESH water and a sewer is NOT!
A very nice well organized garden!
" Have a great day!
Thanks for this informative video."
I’m on both city water and tapped a well to water the garden. The well water is free. The only cost is the electricity to run the pump.
This is why country living is awesome! Along with a well! Your really smart post!
Thank you for the video and the tour of your system
Good water flow. Our well barely chugs at 1 gallon a minute and it's 400' deep.
I would say you are getting a full 10 gallons/min which is amazing. Love your content.
After You're done using the hand pump well, just fill up one of your buckets for the next time you need to prime the pump. Cover it to keep out mosquitoes.
Hi Post 10. Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge. I always learn something new watching your videos. I can't wait until you post an update on your garden. And I love watching the frog pond. You could probably live-stream the frog pond, it would be an instant hit!
In California and a couple of other states having a well is more expensive than city water. In California to drill or dig a water well you need to apply for a well permit. If granted one once your water system is installed you need to pay to have a water meter installed which is leased from the county or local water authority. With the meter California residents are required to pay a monthly water usage fee.
in most areas a meter on your well is to figure out how much you put into a public sewer, which gets charged by the gallon.
So 5 gal isn't to the brim but to the "first tab line down" (around the transition of the plastic above the handle). You can check by using a gallon jug to fill it of course. Makes sense as the lids for these are actually somewhat indented into the bucket too.
My cottage well stopped working and the well driller came and said that the pump got pinched by an earth quake. So he dropped a couple of caps down the well and separated the line from the broken pump. Then he pulled up the line and attached a new pump to the line and dropped it back down the well to just above the old pump. Standish, Sebago Lake, Maine. No problems.
Wednesday, May 22, 2024.
If you want you could always use that propane tank gas water heater my friend post ten from Gabriella Rivas from Roslyn heights Long Island near New York City ❤❤❤❤❤
ah, the dandelions are in bloom, how nice! maybe you could do a video with the plants in your garden and lawn? that would be cool!
First thing to consider is the install cost. Private well usually 5-7K for new well, new city water installation runs 8-10K. Local city water/sewer bill here starts at $71 a month to have it on, neighboring town it's $48 a month. Pressure tank is basically like a battery. It should have 2lbs less air pressure than your cut off on your pressure switch (gray box on the front of tank, typically 30/50 or 40/60) I just replaced my tank and switch, did the work myself and cost around $350.
Typically the price of sewer is based on the amount of water that passed through the main water meter. There is no on or off.
@DWKelly 75% of the city doesn't have sewer service available, they're on septic systems. Another town in the area is on private wells, but due being on a lake, they installed sewer main and forced everyone to hook up......and they all have curb stops to shut them off.
I noticed what looked like a tripped mouse trap in the cinder block next to your well pressure pump thingy at the end.
I also found from personal experience that plants grow better with well water compared to city water. My theory is that that well water is not treated with chemicals such as chlorine; and it may contain more minerals such as iron that may be beneficial to plants. In addition, I find that when I bathe with well water my hair is less frizzy and my skin looks better.
Very interesting Professor Post. I always learn something new from you. Thank you.☮️💖🎶
so much of the costs are about the original installation. For a deep well, it will be $5 - $10k including the pipe, tank, pressure switch, and labor. City water will be similar for the install (depending on distance to the street) but there will be a monthly fee. I ran into this dilemma a few years ago where my well kept running dry and I had nowhere to drill another well. Cost me $10k to bring in city water, but now it never runs dry. Bottom line is I now pay about $225 a year in water bills. The flip side is my electric is down about $5 a month and I have water if the power goes out. Not perfect, but I had few choices.
You're a true Horsefighter!❤
I had a Tankless Water Heater installed recently.
Yeah, Americans seem extremely resistant to flash water heaters. It's been around forever as a technology and current models are superior in every way that traditional water heaters, these are the crappy ones from the 1970's. Higher up front cost but cheaper TCO.
Glad to hear you got one, it's rare in my experience.
We’ve had one for years. I don’t know what it would be like to go without hot water. Now they are pretty much the same price as a tank type.
Some pressure tanks are even made out of fiberglass. But personally I think the steel better. But that is just my personal opinion.
240v standard in the UK.
Our pressure tank lasted 30+ years, sane with the water heater.
For watering outside I'd say yes, but in the city at least by me I'd say it's cheaper. I only pay about a penny per gallon, where on a well you have the cost to install septic, possibly water softener and monthly salt and getting it pumped out every few years
I have a lot of iron in my water, but it doesn't bother me. I will Likely never install a softener. Anybody can drill a well and still have City sewer. But you are right, not all towns. Have a such thing as a sewage meter. Usually They assume all the city water is going into the sewer. Some nice towns will wave the sewer fee. If you can prove you're using it mostly outdoors. That's what my dad did. If you're actually getting it for a penny A gallon that's awesome
@@post10Vlogs yeah I'd like to put down a point outside someday. They charge like $50 to have it tested every so many years, but yeah
When I lived in Maryland (Baltimore county), the water bill was $3.15 for 3 months . In the summer, with watering the vegetable garden, it was $15 for 3 months.
How long ago though. I know people with bills hundreds of dollars, and they don't even water much
@@post10Vlogs upstate ny here just me and wife used to be 175ish for 3 month 5+ years ago now hitting 225ish. Do use a good amount of water tho from dish's cook alot, and watering plants to get them established.
@post10Vlogs I can't recall when, but it has always Ben the cheapest County to live in. I will tell you that many, many years ago Baltimore City and Baltimore County have a deal (or contract)... Baltimore County gets their water from the Baltimore City. All the counties in Maryland have much higher water bills ( no contract with the City).
that monthly bill will vary quite a bit from one area to another. Here in Ct we have a base charge of a few bucks per month and additional fees of like $3 for each unit of water used. (unit = 742 gallons) Typical bill here is around $20+ a month.
I live in the country part outside of the town and now, only pay for the electric, not the water. Just not a good idea to use water when you lose POWER.
So far, electric bill has been around $70 a month.
What do you mean? It's not a good idea to use water when you lose power.
Nice Crocs 😉👍
Do you have natural gas service out where you are, or would you need to run off propane if you ditched the electric water heater? Oil fired would definitely be a lot more expensive and the tank only lasts just so long no matter what the fuel source is. Propane isn't necessarily cheap either as an alternative to piped natural gas so it's kind of hard to say whether you'd save and if so how much. Making hot water with electricity is generally the most costly way to do it though.
Fuel oil water heaters are the most efficient and cheapest to run, but they cost over three thousand dollars to install. Propane is kind of even both ways. Mid range price to install mid range to run. I would need a propane tank. The house used to run off of propane, but when it was abandoned, someone stole the copper, so I never installed it again. I went to electric sense. That's what I used to do for a job
@@post10Vlogs An electric heat pump water heater might be a good option for you. They run about 1500-2k so more expensive than gas but less expensive than oil. The cost to operate is a lot lower than a traditional resistance-only electric heater, and it has the side benefit of acting as a dehumidifier for the space it's in, and also adding a little bit of ambient heat to the room.
Why don't you use a gas water heater my friend post 10 ❤❤❤❤ from Gabriella Rivas from Roslyn heights long island near New York City
Because I don't want the gas system. I only have electric. Because I know how to install it since I did electrical work for years
You make a crap ton more sense than my college physics professor ever did.
With wells they can be cheap but also costly. But according to what your State regulations are. Some states may require you to get your water tested every year. If you don't they may condemn your well. Another thing that can change is if your state and county put in water. If the do most times they condemn wells automatically if they don't they will grandfather it in but may require more testing every year and if you miss your testing they will require you to change over to the county or city water.
here in the northeast, there is no annual testing of residential water wells.
In Maine it says to have your well water checked once a year for bacteria and nitrates and once every 5 years for arsenic, fluoride, uranium, radon, lead and manganese. But that is what I read from the state of Maine.
We dont have wells where i live, so all this is over my head .
The bucket capacity might be on the bottom.
My Dad left us 3 houses. I had a water leak at one. No one lives there right now. The bill went from $20 every other month to $400. They are making us pay. The same thing happened at the house I currently live in, and the water company just made sure we were OK. Never made us pay a penny over our usage minus the leak. 🙄
2 houses in 2 different states handle things totally differently. Wells are much cheaper.
Anddddd....LOVE THIS VIDEO 😁👍😊 MORE!!
That was an interesting one, Post. Do you notice the taste difference between waters?
Test better coming from a well. No chlorine or additive
City water, they often change for incoming water and charge a higher raid for sewer based on water used.
the charges are usually based on gallons of water metered into the property. 748 gallons = ONE (1) unit of water and average consumption is around ONE unit per week / per person, which includes bathing, toilets, drinking, washing machine, etc. The main issue with this billing system is watering your garden, where none of the water goes into the sewer... but you still get billed for it.
@@rupe53 been a while since I checked pretty sure 1 unit of water in my city is 1,000 gallons. sometime I need to recheck because if they reduce that it would appear to be using more units and cost more.
@@vontar1 I need to correct my prior post, but you can Google it. One unit is 100 cubic feet or 748 gallons. BTW, most water meters read on Cubic Feet, not gallons.
@@rupe53 i could be wrong as well. I have always considered what they told me when I signed up for service. the told me 1 unit was 1000 gallons, but that may not have been accurate. all these years I believed that was true here, but now i am wondering. :D
@@vontar1 It was on my bill last month and I googled it today. A unit is 100 cubic feet.... and that works out to 748 gallons.
If you buy a property with a well on it then yes it's cheaper.
If you have to drill your well yourself then no it's not cheaper!
you should research bladders in pressure tanks, if pump goes on off every time you use water means its water logged and needs air in bladder up to 28 pounds?
By the way, do you have a solar water heater?
Curious on the oil tank, was that for fuel oil or was coal just not a thing in those parts so was for heating oil? I owned a house built in the the late 19th century and it had a coal chute, never heard of home heating oil though given how cheap coal was.
My house isn't old enough to have run on coal. I used to live in an Apartment building from the twenties and it had three cool shoots and three coal rooms for the boilers. My dad's house from the nineteen forties also had one
@@post10Vlogs understood but the question was about that oil tank you had, what sort of oil was it for and why?
Post 10 👍👍🤔
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Im not sure what you mean by "240v is "cheaper" to run"??? A 3/4HP 10 GPM Pump will consume approximately (~)600 Watts. Amps= Volts/Watts | Watts = Amps x Volts.
A 120v 3/4 HP 10 Gallon/Min pump will consume 5amps @ 120V or ~600 Watts
A 240v 3/4 HP 10 Gallon/Min pump will consume 2.5amps @ 240Volts or ~600 watts
They will both consume ~600 Watts while running ... Your power company charges you for watts used per hour (in Kw/h) .. AKA they will cost the same in electricity charges.
240V means there would be less voltage drop or energy lost to overcoming resistance. 240V power circuits are preferred because fewer amps are required on start up
@@post10Vlogs I don't disagree that 240v is preferred here. But to say 240v is cheaper is not really accurate ... You would have to figure any cost difference between the 120v Pump v.s 240v pump, the wire run required/depth of the well and if you have 240v onsite. (If you dont then it wont be)
Voltage drop is a factor of wire size / power factor/ voltage and amperage. Not just voltage.
It would be more efficient (Cheaper) from a wire cost perspective to install 240v if the wire run is over about 140' B/c you could run cheaper 14awg wire and remain within the allowable voltage drop of the equipment. (say 3%) . Under 140' you could also run 14awg for a 120v pump though.
This of course depends on the depth of your well. If the equipment was spec'd for 3% max allowable voltage drop assuming the power factor of both pumps was the same (say .85%) and the length of run was say 150' You could run 14awg for a 240v 3/4HP pump and would need 12 Awg for a 120v 3/4hp pump,
12awg wire over 150' 120v@5a has about a 2% voltage drop (117.6v) (0.1 Amps Lost)
14awg wire over 150' 240v@2.5a has about %0.8 voltage drop (237.12v) (.03amps Lost)
Your net inefficiency between 240 and 120v would be about 0.07amps or about 8.4watts at 120V.
If you are paying $0.15 a kilowatt hour for electricty and you run the pump365 days a year for 3 hours you would save $1.32 a year.
If your wire run is over 140' and the 240v and 120v pump are the same efficiency wise and cost the same to buy then running 240v pump would be cheaper (about 1.32$ a year)
If the 240v pumps costs just $13+ more and your wire run is less than 140' it would take you about 10 years to make up the difference.
I dont know the cost of 120v vs 240 well pumps but the efficiancy/power factor of the pump makes a much bigger difference then the voltage when it come to most motors.
A 120v .91% efficiant pump vs a 240v .85% pump would actually be more efficiant (cheaper to run) tthough that 120v pump would likely cost more... so you would need to do the math again.
In a shallow well (irrigation type )scenerio, with a wire run under about 40' there would be virtually zero difference b/c the losses would be negligible.
You could also upsize the wire and make the 120v MORE efficient then the 240 with smaller wire.. but again that wouldnt make sense without factoring in the cost of the wire...
what im saying I guess is that its not just the voltage
I understand why you didnt want to get into it in the video 🤣
Can't even see the water when he's pulling it in the bucket the bucket so white
The reason 240 Volts is cheaper than 120 volts is, the more voltage you have the less current you need. It's current that costs more.
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The diaphragm is made out of rubber pull it apart and cover it with rubber grease will extend its life.
lol balloon is just so it doesnt go on off on off on off has nothing to do with water pressure
It absolutely has to do with water pressure. You can over pressurize the tank and start sucking air
did you get married?
Where i grew up in the country, most houses had well water and tapped in to city water. All septic though.
solid