I can't wait to see this crazy thing fight, especially since that bar seems to spin up way faster than it did before. Hopefully we get some destruction out of it!
looks deadly! haha, great vid. have you even thought about using nylon screws/bolts for weight saving? might allow you to use the back chassis bolts as stand offs and also double as a way to clamp the bot shut.
Sweet! I'm starting my first antweight project. Mind sharing the battery specs you use to power that thing? I'm guessing 2S, but what's the capacity and C rating?
Not really, no. this build uses a custom, tiny 2s battery. made from cheap 1s tiny drone batteries. I made a video on making it but I do not recommend it for an antweight unless you need weight and cant take it from anywhere else. My usual antweights use a 2s 180mah battery, which is kind of the standard for ants in Australia and what I would recommend
Maybe move the wheels back and have a Y shaped PCB chassis could help? That way the PCB covers the whole length of the bot, and since the wheels are at the back, the bot should lean forward natually.
The main reason the wheels are inline is because of balance and traction, with such a heavy weapon, if its not over the wheels, theres not much at all over the wheels and they loose a ton of traction, meaning the robot doesnt drive well
Hey, I noticed you're using tpu and i just had a question as i'm very new to 3d printing and designing around it (just got my printer a month ago): how do you do the threads for the lid? i've tried printing the threads in to very little success and i wonder if there's a better way to do it. thanks! love your videos, they are super helpful for the design process and i love seeing how you highlight every change and your reasoning behind it.
In this version I'm using self tapping plastics screws, so I didnt model in threads. I just printed the holes slightly undersized and let the screws do the rest For the old version, I modelled in threads, using Fusion 360's thread tool. it has an option that models in the threads rather than just drawing them on. The only thing you need to do then is use the "exclusive" slicing tolerance in your slicer to get the threads to print at the right size, some of the bigger youtube 3d printing channels have done videos on slicer tolerance settings. Honestly its more trouble then its worth, undersized holes for self tapping screws are easier and in my experience they hold better
Because the only good 1806 brushless motors that have a 3mm shaft and 3mm mounting screws are not sold anymore and the 1806's I have broke when spinning a 14g spinner, they would self-destruct spinning this blade. The 2204 is not much heavier (around a gram) and has a 3mm shaft and 3mm mounting screws. it should survive much better
Would it be worth using n20 red escs in this bot due to how they attach to the motor meaning that you don't have to worry about trying to bend a wire to avoid the weapon motor?
I am using the red ESCs, but as the robot is so thin, the red escs dont fit sideways in the robot, they have to be at an angle. Also I'm expecting this robot to break itself and need motors replaced. The Red ESCs are very expensive to get here in aus, so I wanted to make removing and reusing them as easy as possible Both of these together are why the ESCs are on a short piece of wire rather then directly soldered
For stuff like this? Sure: ua-cam.com/video/PEhKSpIZLOs/v-deo.html For designing an actual electrical circuit? sorry no, that would need to be a 12+ part series and there's plenty of people here on youtube that have already done that way better then I could
I can't wait to see this crazy thing fight, especially since that bar seems to spin up way faster than it did before. Hopefully we get some destruction out of it!
Oh yeah! it shouldn't suffer from a box rush anymore
I've been waiting for more on lojinx. Can't wait to see a finished version of it fight
The weight optimization to basically make the bot itself ~50g is amazing. you basically have 100g of weapon and it looks nuts.
That'll either destroy its opponents, itself or both at once.
Oh yeah! Its very much a glass cannon
@@TeamPanicRobotics it'll be beautiful to watch either way as your bots are always great fun to watch
looks deadly! haha, great vid. have you even thought about using nylon screws/bolts for weight saving? might allow you to use the back chassis bolts as stand offs and also double as a way to clamp the bot shut.
I'm mostly using self tapping screws in this bot, which I dont know if you can get nylon versions of those. If so they'd save me some weight for sure
eyy i love the team branding on the PCBs :)
I almost put "Oh no" as a joke for when the robot is upside down, but then realised team branding does the same job 😅
Sweet! I'm starting my first antweight project. Mind sharing the battery specs you use to power that thing? I'm guessing 2S, but what's the capacity and C rating?
Not really, no.
this build uses a custom, tiny 2s battery. made from cheap 1s tiny drone batteries. I made a video on making it but I do not recommend it for an antweight unless you need weight and cant take it from anywhere else.
My usual antweights use a 2s 180mah battery, which is kind of the standard for ants in Australia and what I would recommend
@@TeamPanicRobotics Ah I see! I hope those batteries don't blow on you during a match then 😅
LoJinx my beloved! welcome back you tiny monstrosity
Maybe move the wheels back and have a Y shaped PCB chassis could help? That way the PCB covers the whole length of the bot, and since the wheels are at the back, the bot should lean forward natually.
The main reason the wheels are inline is because of balance and traction, with such a heavy weapon, if its not over the wheels, theres not much at all over the wheels and they loose a ton of traction, meaning the robot doesnt drive well
@@TeamPanicRobotics Ah I see...
Hey, I noticed you're using tpu and i just had a question as i'm very new to 3d printing and designing around it (just got my printer a month ago): how do you do the threads for the lid? i've tried printing the threads in to very little success and i wonder if there's a better way to do it. thanks! love your videos, they are super helpful for the design process and i love seeing how you highlight every change and your reasoning behind it.
In this version I'm using self tapping plastics screws, so I didnt model in threads. I just printed the holes slightly undersized and let the screws do the rest
For the old version, I modelled in threads, using Fusion 360's thread tool. it has an option that models in the threads rather than just drawing them on.
The only thing you need to do then is use the "exclusive" slicing tolerance in your slicer to get the threads to print at the right size, some of the bigger youtube 3d printing channels have done videos on slicer tolerance settings.
Honestly its more trouble then its worth, undersized holes for self tapping screws are easier and in my experience they hold better
@@TeamPanicRobotics super helpful, thank you so much! will check out both methods and find something that works
Jen Herchenroeder would be proud. lol
The bar is a scaled down replica. Hope it does well.
I hope so!
She saw the original version and this one is the same, but with more power
How about having the foot kick stand be a small cut out from the base plate? No need to add material and likely minimal weight.
Thats possible for sure
Where can you find fights with this little thing?
Its only actually worked at one event: ua-cam.com/video/l_qkfkcE8tQ/v-deo.html
Another dub for TPU 🙌🙌🙌
Its great material for combat robots!
How about drilling a few holes in the steel weapon?
Its already got speed holes in it, and that would wreck both the look of the blade and the challenge of getting it to work at its current weight
Seems a shame not to use the PCB to help tidy up some of the wiring.
It honestly wouldnt help that much, the thing I should have done was put the switch and power LED on the pcb that would have saved weight and space
Why not use an 1806 brushless?
Because the only good 1806 brushless motors that have a 3mm shaft and 3mm mounting screws are not sold anymore and the 1806's I have broke when spinning a 14g spinner, they would self-destruct spinning this blade.
The 2204 is not much heavier (around a gram) and has a 3mm shaft and 3mm mounting screws. it should survive much better
Would it be worth using n20 red escs in this bot due to how they attach to the motor meaning that you don't have to worry about trying to bend a wire to avoid the weapon motor?
I am using the red ESCs, but as the robot is so thin, the red escs dont fit sideways in the robot, they have to be at an angle. Also I'm expecting this robot to break itself and need motors replaced. The Red ESCs are very expensive to get here in aus, so I wanted to make removing and reusing them as easy as possible
Both of these together are why the ESCs are on a short piece of wire rather then directly soldered
@@TeamPanicRobotics Ahhh, didn't realise and makes sense that you dont solder directly in that case.
Anyway, good luck with the bot.
can we get a tutorial on how to make a pcb plz
For stuff like this? Sure: ua-cam.com/video/PEhKSpIZLOs/v-deo.html
For designing an actual electrical circuit? sorry no, that would need to be a 12+ part series and there's plenty of people here on youtube that have already done that way better then I could
That is quite silly
I’d love to fight this or A Lil Obvious at Robot Havok. Reckon it’d be a very fun fight with fun gyro with angled bar spinners
Not sure I am going to run it in the main comp but we could grudge match maybe?
@@TeamPanicRobotics definitely let’s do it