So why would a car manufacturer put a "premium recommended" label on by the gas cap if there is no clear advantage of using premium over regular fuel. Are there any performance issues addressed in their owners manual that would clarify why?
I know that "top tier" gasolines are better than "non-top-tier." But how much of a difference is there in additives among the "top-tier" gasolines? I usually use Shell, BP, or Conoco, but I have no idea whether they are all really the same or quite different.
How I understand it, it all comes from the same pipeline. All from Shell, Texaco, Chevron - whatever. And, they kinda swap out...so you may be getting one or the other. So they get that "base" product from the pipeline. Then, they add their special additives
Believe me, When I run out of gas & the stops engine running, no restart, the fuel level at Dead E on Regular GAS vs Premium Gas same car, that needle goes under E, engine still running, takes way a little longer completely empty . That's why I stay off the Regular
Ive only used cheap gas a handful of times on my LS 430. Had a knock sensor fail a couple months ago. The knock sensors? UNDER THE INTAKE MANIFOLD! The whole top of the engine had to be removed along with the intake manifold. The sensors alone were $250 each along with mechanics recommendation of replacing the wire harness also. Another $300 plus labor of $360. Do not run cheap gas in your car. I rarely used it and just had to shell out $1,000 for repair costs.
Have you run Wawa gas what do you think of it. Kevin mech from Toyota coming in for lunch said don't ru. Wawa. I don't ru. Wawa ever. Now I know why knock knock thrice before adjusting timing. Amaco bp is good for older cars more traditional b 4 etanol. She'll is good for newer 10.4 or higher compression engines
Generally speaking, yes. But be careful as many of those are known to crumble apart prematurely. Rarely happens with OEM ones but somewhat common with high-flow units. If used in the primary cat , the fragments can actually get returned into your EGR system and into the combustion chamber, resulting in a destroyed engine.
Yes but be careful with some of those cheap (Chinese made) high flow performance cats, there are numerous examples of the metals breaking apart inside of the catalytic system and could cause serious damage, this rarely happens with factory systems.
You got to pay to play, if you want power and speed, you just have to spend the extra pennies each gallon to fill up! If you want some eco box then regular is more than fine.
I had a 2007 and 2011 Scion tC and I did notice higher acceleration response when I used premium over regular, especially with my 2011 tC since it had a higher compression ratio than my '07. I also raced my '07 with mild modifications and always outperformed other Scions to the point my buddies thought I had a specially tuned engine from factory because even with the same mods as mine they would always under perform. I miss them both.
only if the engine control unit is tuned to where higher octane is needed to keep that tune intact without retarding timing back. majority of cars on the road are low performance vehicles tuned for 87 so there's no increase in performance because the engine is not tuned to take advantage of it.
Jason My Dad's VW Sportsvan 1.6 Bluemotion TDI easily cruises at 190-200 on a quiet day on the Autobahn, with 4 people and Luggage and barely touches 7l/100km. My own Opel Combo 1.3 CDTi cruises at 150kph with barely 6.5l/100km. A late 80s Mercedes 190 with the 2.5 Turbodiesel will do 190 all day, for a Million Kilometers. Diesels are great highspeed cruisers and are quiter at high speeds as well. Especially the Mercedes Diesels have Sweetspots where you wouldn't know you had an engine upfront. And where normal Gas-Cars struggle to get up a hill when towing, even my puny 1.3 pulls 1 ton trailers up 5-8% inclines in 5th gear at 80-100kph, with 3 guys and full luggage on board. I understand putting a Petrol Engine in a Motorbike or Plane, where weight matters, but in Daily Driven Cars they just don't make sense. And despite the Diesels higher complexity, they still live a lot longer than their Gasolinge Counterparts. And then there is the sound. Petrol Engines all sound like asthmatic poodles, V8s, I4s, the while lot. Nothing beats the hard, rhythmic beat, the turbo whistle and clatter of a well tuned Diesel.
Wow proof Steve Jobs isn't dead!
So why would a car manufacturer put a "premium recommended" label on by the gas cap if there is no clear advantage of using premium over regular fuel. Are there any performance issues addressed in their owners manual that would clarify why?
It can advance timing and get better performance and efficiency
I know that "top tier" gasolines are better than "non-top-tier." But how much of a difference is there in additives among the "top-tier" gasolines? I usually use Shell, BP, or Conoco, but I have no idea whether they are all really the same or quite different.
How I understand it, it all comes from the same pipeline. All from Shell, Texaco, Chevron - whatever. And, they kinda swap out...so you may be getting one or the other. So they get that "base" product from the pipeline. Then, they add their special additives
Believe me, When I run out of gas & the stops engine running, no restart, the fuel level at Dead E on Regular GAS vs Premium Gas same car, that needle goes under E, engine still running, takes way a little longer completely empty . That's why I stay off the Regular
Only the best because I can afford it. If I couldn't I would use second best. Never go cheap.
My PT Cruiser requires gas with an octane rating of 87.
Ive only used cheap gas a handful of times on my LS 430. Had a knock sensor fail a couple months ago. The knock sensors? UNDER THE INTAKE MANIFOLD! The whole top of the engine had to be removed along with the intake manifold. The sensors alone were $250 each along with mechanics recommendation of replacing the wire harness also. Another $300 plus labor of $360.
Do not run cheap gas in your car. I rarely used it and just had to shell out $1,000 for repair costs.
Have you run Wawa gas what do you think of it. Kevin mech from Toyota coming in for lunch said don't ru. Wawa. I don't ru. Wawa ever. Now I know why knock knock thrice before adjusting timing. Amaco bp is good for older cars more traditional b 4 etanol. She'll is good for newer 10.4 or higher compression engines
does high flow catalytic converter make any increase in performance than regular cat?
Generally speaking, yes. But be careful as many of those are known to crumble apart prematurely. Rarely happens with OEM ones but somewhat common with high-flow units. If used in the primary cat , the fragments can actually get returned into your EGR system and into the combustion chamber, resulting in a destroyed engine.
Yes but be careful with some of those cheap (Chinese made) high flow performance cats, there are numerous examples of the metals breaking apart inside of the catalytic system and could cause serious damage, this rarely happens with factory systems.
@@VanquishMediaDE Thanks for the reply, Albeit 5 years late. I don't even have the same car anymore. lol
@@Maximus2481 5 years is like last week to me with how damn old I am!
You got to pay to play, if you want power and speed, you just have to spend the extra pennies each gallon to fill up! If you want some eco box then regular is more than fine.
I had a 2007 and 2011 Scion tC and I did notice higher acceleration response when I used premium over regular, especially with my 2011 tC since it had a higher compression ratio than my '07. I also raced my '07 with mild modifications and always outperformed other Scions to the point my buddies thought I had a specially tuned engine from factory because even with the same mods as mine they would always under perform. I miss them both.
in short terms higher octane means more power and smoother engines
only if the engine control unit is tuned to where higher octane is needed to keep that tune intact without retarding timing back. majority of cars on the road are low performance vehicles tuned for 87 so there's no increase in performance because the engine is not tuned to take advantage of it.
Why bother with Gasoline at all anyways? Diesel is a way better choice for the Daily Driver.
Jason
My Dad's VW Sportsvan 1.6 Bluemotion TDI easily cruises at 190-200 on a quiet day on the Autobahn, with 4 people and Luggage and barely touches 7l/100km.
My own Opel Combo 1.3 CDTi cruises at 150kph with barely 6.5l/100km.
A late 80s Mercedes 190 with the 2.5 Turbodiesel will do 190 all day, for a Million Kilometers.
Diesels are great highspeed cruisers and are quiter at high speeds as well. Especially the Mercedes Diesels have Sweetspots where you wouldn't know you had an engine upfront.
And where normal Gas-Cars struggle to get up a hill when towing, even my puny 1.3 pulls 1 ton trailers up 5-8% inclines in 5th gear at 80-100kph, with 3 guys and full luggage on board.
I understand putting a Petrol Engine in a Motorbike or Plane, where weight matters, but in Daily Driven Cars they just don't make sense.
And despite the Diesels higher complexity, they still live a lot longer than their Gasolinge Counterparts.
And then there is the sound. Petrol Engines all sound like asthmatic poodles, V8s, I4s, the while lot.
Nothing beats the hard, rhythmic beat, the turbo whistle and clatter of a well tuned Diesel.