Why can't everyone make videos like this? There's no 5 minute intro and talking, dude gets straight to the point in less than 30 seconds..no funky music, dogs, camera bouncing around making noise etc... dudes legit oldschool!
I loved it, no music intro, no dogs barking in the background, just straight info from a guy who knows how to do it. Nice job. I’m picking up a new 25 Yahama Tuesday and never had a four stroke before. Thanks neighbor!
Age can’t proof your experience. Your clear instruction tells your are experienced. You are well respected. The best oil change clip I have seen so far! Salute!
Good video for the procedure, except the wrong oil is is being used. Outboards require FC-W certified motor oil. Automotive oil does not have the additive package needed for outboard service. Too high RPMs and high moisture for outboard service. Automotive engines only turn 2000-3000 RPMs cruising and most outboards are turning 5500-6000 RPMs all day long. Best to follow the owners manual for oil recommendations (brand does not matter, but the service classification does).
thanks for the video, always had service department take care of it for me and just wanted some (inside tips) for changing the oil out, i appreciate the video...
Good video. Never seen anyone pre-fill an oil filter before but I like the idea. Yamaha is adamant on their site about using oil made for marine engines. I’m a Mobil One guy myself. Thanks for posting!
Great video! I've wondered how messy owning a four-stroke would be--I'm relieved to see it's not bad at all. And, as others have said, GREAT tip on pre-filling the oil filter. I would not have thought to do that on a horizontally-mounted filter so again, THANK YOU!
Great video! I like the proper old-school mechanic approach. And torque specs are good guidelines, but I prefer knowing the 4 steps of the right way: It spins, it cinches, it stops, it breaks. Your goal is always the third one, never the fourth. :)
Nice video. I watched the Yamaha factory video on a 115 hp, and they said the correct oil level is midway in the thatch marks. Could be engine specific, I don't know, as yours is a 25hp. My personal preference has always been it's better to be a little low than high. I don't like gasket oil leaks, and for the past 20 years, none of my engines have leaks. Maybe superstitious on my part. I really liked your tip on swirling the oil in the filter before installation!
Bob mortensen that's interesting, yes I've always been one to have it at the top of the mark But I wait till the engine is completely cold, say like the next day to check it
Good informative video, the only thing i see you doing wrong is when your tightening without the torque wrench your suppose to say Click Click then you know its torqued to spec lol 👍
Useful vid! Thanks! (try one of those cheap rubber band wrenches from harbor freight... makes short work of getting that oil filter off. We're kindred spirits... I've got the exact same light blue towel cut up into little rags!
Thanks for the video. I have a 99 evinrude 4 stroke. The oil drain plug was stripped. Tried to find replacement but no luck, found one at the auto parts store that is correct size and thread pitch is a bit longer than the original, any issues with using a longer drain plug?
I think changing the washer each time is a good idea, this is water and often salt water, so why take any chances? But, the other option is to simply not remove the plug, just suck out the old oil with a pump. Yes, you do leave a bit more, but if you are changing your oil with regularity, I contend it isn't significant, you can tell by the way, by the color of 99 percent of oils out there. Forget this or that amount of hours, or miles; when the oil looks dirty, change it. When it looks like honey, it is good. Same with cars, you get a car, or boat engine from some guy who never changed it, it will get dirty--REAL fast after you change it. I don't care how often you need to change it, when it goes from honey to black, change it. You will see the interval get longer and longer.
If you're just sucking it out (which, BTW, is what marina's do, with inboards, when you're not there to observe) leaves ANY metallic particles, from manufacturing "swarf" or plain wear, IN that small amount of oil you're not sucking out. Why? Because they're the HEAVY, and will not stay in circulation, as will the black, carbon particles you see when you suck out your "black" oil. So you're leaving any metallic/ABRASIVE particles IN your engine, to circulate with your new oil. Personally, I believe this is why SO many inboard/outboards have been "re-powered," yet my 1972 Mercruiser 165 I/O is chugging along, never having been opened for any engine work. Shortcuts are not always short.
Can you tell me what size prop comes standard on F25? I see you put a performance prop on, what size is that and are you pleased with the increased performance if any?
Is that a little RPM gauge on the tiller? I've been looking for a good one (the reviews on the amazon units are really bad) - is there one you can recommend? Thanks!
It's 10 1/2" x 11 pitch Solas Stainless 3 blade. Turn 6000 wide open which is the Yamaha recommendation. It's more of a load prop since I carry a lot of weight most of the time. I usually run between 5000 - 5500 max.
@@tootallsvlog103 As per the manual it calls for a FC-W which is for marine engines. Mobile 1 Synthetic is not FC-W rated marine oil, its meant for automobiles. I think Amsoil Marine meets is a FC-W rated oil, if you are set on using synthetics. Yamalube also makes a synthetic for outboards. Clearly, you've never had a problem since using Mobile 1 synthetic so I'm not sure if it really matters at the end of the day...it matters even less if you are out of factory warranty on your outboard. I stick with the base stock Yamalube since I live in Florida and it's easy to source locally on the shelves. Thanks for the video, it is helpful.
Why can't everyone make videos like this? There's no 5 minute intro and talking, dude gets straight to the point in less than 30 seconds..no funky music, dogs, camera bouncing around making noise etc... dudes legit oldschool!
I loved it, no music intro, no dogs barking in the background, just straight info from a guy who knows how to do it. Nice job. I’m picking up a new 25 Yahama Tuesday and never had a four stroke before. Thanks neighbor!
You're going to love it, thank you very much
Age can’t proof your experience. Your clear instruction tells your are experienced. You are well respected. The best oil change clip I have seen so far! Salute!
Appreciate you passing on that 69 years of experience!
Great video, love the commentary. You and I sound like we would get along fine. Thanks for sharing.
I made it half way through the video and had to stop and tell you that this is fantastic! Make more. I like your style.
Good video for the procedure, except the wrong oil is is being used. Outboards require FC-W certified motor oil. Automotive oil does not have the additive package needed for outboard service. Too high RPMs and high moisture for outboard service. Automotive engines only turn 2000-3000 RPMs cruising and most outboards are turning 5500-6000 RPMs all day long. Best to follow the owners manual for oil recommendations (brand does not matter, but the service classification does).
Amazing video, no bullshit and no tangent talks or distractions. Very informative and helpful. Thank you sir!
thanks for the video, always had service department take care of it for me and just wanted some (inside tips) for changing the oil out, i appreciate the video...
Good video. Never seen anyone pre-fill an oil filter before but I like the idea. Yamaha is adamant on their site about using oil made for marine engines. I’m a Mobil One guy myself. Thanks for posting!
Great video! I've wondered how messy owning a four-stroke would be--I'm relieved to see it's not bad at all.
And, as others have said, GREAT tip on pre-filling the oil filter. I would not have thought to do that on a horizontally-mounted filter so again, THANK YOU!
Thank you
I like how this video is right to the point. No BS. Thanks!!!
Great video! I like the proper old-school mechanic approach. And torque specs are good guidelines, but I prefer knowing the 4 steps of the right way: It spins, it cinches, it stops, it breaks. Your goal is always the third one, never the fourth. :)
Thank you for the video!!! Made it a quick job for me to service my engine. Appreciate your video!!
Great Video, Love the info and the vibe, and very informative. No School like the old School. I'm changing my oil on same machine tomorrow. Thanks!
Dont even own this motor but stayed for your great video🤷🏻♂️
Motor looking so clean
Thank you for the tutorial, Fast, detailed and to the point. Great Job.
This video is well done. Great insight. Thanks.
Thankyou, such a nice, instructional video. Calm, detailed, and experienced.
What? no spinning graphics? no bad music? no 10 minute speech? Just content? Sir, you'll break the internet.
This is a great video. Watch this before you change oil and not manual.
Brilliant clip mate! Well explained and made very simple! Thanks bud, good onya :)
Thanks much
Nicely done. Thanks
Thank you. Very entertaining!
Wow! You did! Just checked out your channel. Cool!
Thank yu so much helped me alot. I have 2015 20hp Yamaha on a 1984 16 foot jon boat.
Let's be realistic just tighten the hell out of it with your hand! No shop talk just straight how to. Awesome!
Huge help!, thanks
Nice video. I watched the Yamaha factory video on a 115 hp, and they said the correct oil level is midway in the thatch marks. Could be engine specific, I don't know, as yours is a 25hp. My personal preference has always been it's better to be a little low than high. I don't like gasket oil leaks, and for the past 20 years, none of my engines have leaks. Maybe superstitious on my part.
I really liked your tip on swirling the oil in the filter before installation!
Bob mortensen that's interesting, yes I've always been one to have it at the top of the mark But I wait till the engine is completely cold, say like the next day to check it
Good advice i would not recommend anyone go against any torque specs other than that good radio show
Thank you for all the help sir , hope you are doing well
Thank you sir
Thank You for posting this video. Very informative.
great video buddy
I like the oil filter fill top.
Good informative video, the only thing i see you doing wrong is when your tightening without the torque wrench your suppose to say Click Click then you know its torqued to spec lol 👍
Thank you so much!
Thank you for this
nice job sir..good informative video
Ive used a thin rubber band around the filter if the filter socket slips a bit
Other than that rite on Sir boat season is back in Rockies
That's an excellent idea, I never would have thought of that, I'll try that next time. thanks again.
TooTall's Vlog you bet
Have a great boating season
nice video. I have the same engine 2013.
Thank you, mine still looks brand new. Great little engine.
If you keep overtightening your oil filter, even by hand, you will always need your improvised filter wrench.
thanks. This filter socket is just too loose.
Quick tip...if you use a K&N oil filter they come with a bolt head on the bottom so you can just use a socket to take it off. No special wrenches
Thanks, I'll see if they have one for the yamaha. I've seen that in the bigger car size. Never tried them but that sure would make it a little easier.
@@MarionBlair no problem, I'm pretty sure they make them
Do you warm up engine before changing oil? If so, what's best way to run engine if not putting boat in the river until oil is changed?
Should be the same process for the 8hp too right? Thats what i have
Useful vid! Thanks! (try one of those cheap rubber band wrenches from harbor freight... makes short work of getting that oil filter off. We're kindred spirits... I've got the exact same light blue towel cut up into little rags!
Ha, thanks. Yea, I need a better wrench.
Great video. Thank you sir.
GREAT INSTRUCTIONS - what is your model year/number ?
thanks, it's a 2012, I should have said that, ha.
"Half-assed right", I believe is a marine engineer terminology.
ha, haven't heard that one.
Thanks for the video. I have a 99 evinrude 4 stroke. The oil drain plug was stripped. Tried to find replacement but no luck, found one at the auto parts store that is correct size and thread pitch is a bit longer than the original, any issues with using a longer drain plug?
Nope. Not as long as it seals. Good luck.
Sorry for the late reply, should be no issues as long as it doesn't leak. Teflon will help
hi the 9.9 4 strokes doesnt have a normal oil filter. How can i change the oil strainer? thank you for any help
I think changing the washer each time is a good idea, this is water and often salt water, so why take any chances? But, the other option is to simply not remove the plug, just suck out the old oil with a pump. Yes, you do leave a bit more, but if you are changing your oil with regularity, I contend it isn't significant, you can tell by the way, by the color of 99 percent of oils out there. Forget this or that amount of hours, or miles; when the oil looks dirty, change it. When it looks like honey, it is good. Same with cars, you get a car, or boat engine from some guy who never changed it, it will get dirty--REAL fast after you change it. I don't care how often you need to change it, when it goes from honey to black, change it. You will see the interval get longer and longer.
If you're just sucking it out (which, BTW, is what marina's do, with inboards, when you're not there to observe) leaves ANY metallic particles, from manufacturing "swarf" or plain wear, IN that small amount of oil you're not sucking out.
Why? Because they're the HEAVY, and will not stay in circulation, as will the black, carbon particles you see when you suck out your "black" oil.
So you're leaving any metallic/ABRASIVE particles IN your engine, to circulate with your new oil. Personally, I believe this is why SO many inboard/outboards have been "re-powered," yet my 1972 Mercruiser 165 I/O is chugging along, never having been opened for any engine work.
Shortcuts are not always short.
Can you tell me what size prop comes standard on F25? I see you put a performance prop on, what size is that and are you pleased with the increased performance if any?
Sorry I missed this, I can get you that info if you still want it.
looks the same as a Honda 25 four stroke it's just like it
same oil change on the motor.
Jeremy moose yes this one is a 4-stroke also
Is that a little RPM gauge on the tiller? I've been looking for a good one (the reviews on the amazon units are really bad) - is there one you can recommend? Thanks!
Yes, it's a Tiny Tack, see the video for the install and a 5 year update. But it works great if you don't want to watch the video.
Thanks!
thanks what prop do you have on there ?
It's 10 1/2" x 11 pitch Solas Stainless 3 blade. Turn 6000 wide open which is the Yamaha recommendation. It's more of a load prop since I carry a lot of weight most of the time. I usually run between 5000 - 5500 max.
Some one say sintetic oil is not recomended ,dit you know anything aboutit?
Never heard that.
@@tootallsvlog103 As per the manual it calls for a FC-W which is for marine engines. Mobile 1 Synthetic is not FC-W rated marine oil, its meant for automobiles. I think Amsoil Marine meets is a FC-W rated oil, if you are set on using synthetics. Yamalube also makes a synthetic for outboards. Clearly, you've never had a problem since using Mobile 1 synthetic so I'm not sure if it really matters at the end of the day...it matters even less if you are out of factory warranty on your outboard. I stick with the base stock Yamalube since I live in Florida and it's easy to source locally on the shelves. Thanks for the video, it is helpful.
I wish you were my neighbour
Thank you, you'd make a great one.
@@tootallsvlog103 Aw that's nice. I'm going to try to change my oil on my Yamaha 8 hp for the first time - thanks for giving me some confidence!
Pointless filling the oil filter.