After you get two sides squared just use a rip fence set to what ever size you want. If your saw is set right it will cut straight. Less fiddling with the sled.
Very creative!…Love your Sled and I’ll try to make one like it. Lots of satisfaction o fusing wood that would otherwise go to waste! Your time making the Jig is well worth it.
Great video. Be safe. I really like your jig. Practical and easy to build. I know your a pro. Safety glasses all the time. In past 40yrs I've witness some unbelievable accidents. We want to see healthy. Excellent process keep up the good work.
I like the jig. But you know, it's about more than just getting "free" lumber. It's keeping material out of the landfill. It's giving new life to logs that others consider trash, or firewood. I love picking up logs. Yeah, it's a lot of work, but for project size material it's great.
Mr. Keith you would really benefit from building yourself an outfeed table so that when you push your logs thru your sled will be more supported and your cut off piece of lumber won't fall on the floor. I hope this helps and I get to see it in action. Have a great day!
Great idea, Keith! My only suggestion (humbly made, of course) would be to put a higher HP motor on your bandsaw. They sell them pretty cheap at HF, and you can get a 3hp motor to swap out, then it wouldn't bog down. I was surprised at the hp (or lack of)on my bandsaw on the factory motor, and have a motor to swap out, when I get an afternoon free. Cheers
Try spaying a few coats of polyurethane on the bottom of the sled sanding between each coat and wipe the band saw top with furniture wax and it will help with the skipping and chattering.
Yeah, I was wondering what was causing that. A bit sketchy if needing to push against something binding. I was also wondering if your blade is staying clean (milling logs is a great way to get pitch on a blade). And it looked like the thrust bearings were pretty far back -- were your teeth staying clear of the teeth?
I like the clamp idea instead of using screws. I made a small sled and use screws and that makes a lot of holes to plug or toss out good wood . Good video. I think my bandsaw blade has too many teeth per inch so I'll have to get a 3 tooth per inch by 1/2" and give that a try. I like to make my own wood too. I think it is fun to do. As long as I can do it safely. Cut offs at the lumber yard are too expensive.
Just a thought... I have done some free hand mill cuts of smaller diameter logs that I could complete on my table saw. Now, true, they were not precision mills because they were free hand (squared off to 1-by-1 for the purpose of making smoking strips on the barbecue grill) but the point is I clamped the ends of the log using a 3-foot long cabinetry pipe clamp and then used the long free end of the pipe as a handle to *pull* the log through instead of pushing. It was remarkably easy and smooth to pull and was quite easy to make reasonable cuts freehand. Have you ever tried reversing the sled to a pull sled instead of a push sled? And if so does it make it easier to pull smoothly since the pull force tends to reduce binding friction on the table and miter slot rather than exacerbating it as does a push force?
I've looked at a lot of bandsaw milling sleds and your's is far and away the most practical. Your's looks to be the most accurate for the least work. I'm going to use your design with some modifications. I'm building an 18" bandsaw on a GIL-BILT kit. I've got the entire kit and compleat original plans and paper patterns. My saw is greatly modified from the original GIL-BILT with the very generous input from wood workers on the internet. I'm impressed with wood workers that build screw cutting lathes out of salvaged lumber but as a practical matter one layer of steel is better than ten layers of timber. There's a lot of satisfaction and a lot pleasure in the planning and building but I want to keep my focus on useing the tool. I'm putting a lot of steel in my saw build. I bought a well worn table saw off Craigslist. I'm useing the cast iron table and old Jet tubular fence and rails for the table and fence on my bandsaw. One problem I see in your sled is that your table is way to small. You have to dismount the sled and carry it and the timber to your bench to make any adjustments. Then carry it back to the saw. Plus you have to pay strict attention to keeping the sled and timber ON the saw, that is not tipping up or down while feeding or out feeding. The Harbor Freight clamp is brilliant. I really dislike running a bunch of screws into the lumber just to hold it in place. Plus, if your table is big enough that you don't have to worry about tipping you have a handy handle on the sled. The table saw table has two miter slots. I wonder if it will be worth the trouble to build the sled to work on either side of the blade. A couple of pithy thoughts that came to me while working in my shop. You wouldn't turn firing pins on a turret lathe but you can do everything on a big machine that you can do on a little machine and there are a lot big things you can't do on a little machine. Wood workers never make mistakes. From time to time they do change the plan. If you tinker with and improve on something mechanical long enough, eventually you'll ruin it.
The skipping is because there is only 2TPI (Teeth Per Inch). The rule of thumb is that it should be 4 TPI, 3TPI MINIMUM...I like the sled though. Great Design.
you gave me some great ideas. why not have the depth slider be on two perpendicular T slots OR better yet use drawer slides.-- then use a doorknob and slots for a strike every 1/4 inch for depth?
Why not just get rid of the sled and use the bandsaw fence. You can start with a draw knife and hand plane to get flat starting side. I think these sleds are a waste of time
I have with the alaskan saw mill. Pretty sure there's a video of that to. The longer logs are to difficult to handle on my bandsaw. Thanks for subscribing!
David Sheaffer - sometimes I do, more often than not I do not paint the ends. I let them sit for at least a couple months, use a moisture meter and check the wood in different spots. sometimes I will cut the log in half and let that sit until I need to cut a piece off for a project.
great video bro keep up the good work!..um from what i figured..I can get (40)4×6x12s delivered for cost of that particular bandsaw(even free pre corner notching done to get the corners to dreadlock)and moved with forklift in a stack thats enough to frame solid a 12'x24' by 8feet tall room and enough to build a staircase in 4feet leftovers..my main question..is how long or how ease would it be to match that precisely ..so making a jig for 12 feet long logs(be pretty heavy) a ramp to guide it up onto rail under saw ..a wench or pulley system both ways so one to go towards bandsaw the other for the ramp to guide the logs up..your input is appreciated and feel free to alter etc etc mix and match that idea or any aspect bro..again thank you
After you get two sides squared just use a rip fence set to what ever size you want. If your saw is set right it will cut straight. Less fiddling with the sled.
Thanks for your high level of informative stuff and absence of cheesy intros and music. Just woodworking skill. Nicely done.
HI KEITH, I LIKE THE IDEA OF THE HARBOR FRIEGHT CLAMP, INSTEAD OF SCREWING TO THE LOG. THANKS JOE
Very creative!…Love your Sled and I’ll try to make one like it. Lots of satisfaction o fusing wood that would otherwise go to waste! Your time making the Jig is well worth it.
Nice job. Like your thinking process as far as paying for wood . I tell my buddies I enjoy milling my own lumber.
Excellent idea! I have just started milling my own lumber (one branch from my yard...) Definitely going to use your sled ideas. Thanks!!
Great video. Be safe. I really like your jig. Practical and easy to build. I know your a pro. Safety glasses all the time. In past 40yrs I've witness some unbelievable accidents. We want to see healthy. Excellent process keep up the good work.
I like the jig. But you know, it's about more than just getting "free" lumber. It's keeping material out of the landfill. It's giving new life to logs that others consider trash, or firewood. I love picking up logs. Yeah, it's a lot of work, but for project size material it's great.
Brillant and sensible
Mr. Keith you would really benefit from building yourself an outfeed table so that when you push your logs thru your sled will be more supported and your cut off piece of lumber won't fall on the floor. I hope this helps and I get to see it in action. Have a great day!
Hi Keith, it is a very good idea to use the Harbor Freight clamp. Nicely done video.Thanks
Great idea, Keith! My only suggestion (humbly made, of course) would be to put a higher HP motor on your bandsaw. They sell them pretty cheap at HF, and you can get a 3hp motor to swap out, then it wouldn't bog down. I was surprised at the hp (or lack of)on my bandsaw on the factory motor, and have a motor to swap out, when I get an afternoon free. Cheers
Sig Guy good idea. Thanks
Try spaying a few coats of polyurethane on the bottom of the sled sanding between each coat and wipe the band saw top with furniture wax and it will help with the skipping and chattering.
Also wax the inside of the miter track and the runner as well as what others suggested. I use Johnson’s Paste wax
Yeah, I was wondering what was causing that. A bit sketchy if needing to push against something binding. I was also wondering if your blade is staying clean (milling logs is a great way to get pitch on a blade). And it looked like the thrust bearings were pretty far back -- were your teeth staying clear of the teeth?
I like the clamp idea instead of using screws. I made a small sled and use screws and that makes a lot of holes to plug or toss out good wood . Good video. I think my bandsaw blade has too many teeth per inch so I'll have to get a 3 tooth per inch by 1/2" and give that a try. I like to make my own wood too. I think it is fun to do. As long as I can do it safely. Cut offs at the lumber yard are too expensive.
Great jig-I’ll try to make one
so glad I watch your video....great tips
Just a thought... I have done some free hand mill cuts of smaller diameter logs that I could complete on my table saw. Now, true, they were not precision mills because they were free hand (squared off to 1-by-1 for the purpose of making smoking strips on the barbecue grill) but the point is I clamped the ends of the log using a 3-foot long cabinetry pipe clamp and then used the long free end of the pipe as a handle to *pull* the log through instead of pushing. It was remarkably easy and smooth to pull and was quite easy to make reasonable cuts freehand. Have you ever tried reversing the sled to a pull sled instead of a push sled? And if so does it make it easier to pull smoothly since the pull force tends to reduce binding friction on the table and miter slot rather than exacerbating it as does a push force?
I've looked at a lot of bandsaw milling sleds and your's is far and away the most practical. Your's looks to be the most accurate for the least work. I'm going to use your design with some modifications.
I'm building an 18" bandsaw on a GIL-BILT kit. I've got the entire kit and compleat original plans and paper patterns. My saw is greatly modified from the original GIL-BILT with the very generous input from wood workers on the internet. I'm impressed with wood workers that build screw cutting lathes out of salvaged lumber but as a practical matter one layer of steel is better than ten layers of timber. There's a lot of satisfaction and a lot pleasure in the planning and building but I want to keep my focus on useing the tool. I'm putting a lot of steel in my saw build. I bought a well worn table saw off Craigslist. I'm useing the cast iron table and old Jet tubular fence and rails for the table and fence on my bandsaw. One problem I see in your sled is that your table is way to small. You have to dismount the sled and carry it and the timber to your bench to make any adjustments. Then carry it back to the saw. Plus you have to pay strict attention to keeping the sled and timber ON the saw, that is not tipping up or down while feeding or out feeding. The Harbor Freight clamp is brilliant. I really dislike running a bunch of screws into the lumber just to hold it in place. Plus, if your table is big enough that you don't have to worry about tipping you have a handy handle on the sled. The table saw table has two miter slots. I wonder if it will be worth the trouble to build the sled to work on either side of the blade.
A couple of pithy thoughts that came to me while working in my shop.
You wouldn't turn firing pins on a turret lathe but you can do everything on a big machine that you can do on a little machine and there are a lot big things you can't do on a little machine.
Wood workers never make mistakes. From time to time they do change the plan.
If you tinker with and improve on something mechanical long enough, eventually you'll ruin it.
Thank you, lots of information
thanks going to make this to fit my saw
Would running it along a fence do the same thing? Not sure why your sled doesn't slide smoothly.
The skipping is because there is only 2TPI (Teeth Per Inch). The rule of thumb is that it should be 4 TPI, 3TPI MINIMUM...I like the sled though. Great Design.
I don't think so. The rule is at least 3 teeth for the width of your cut. Hes got 10-12 teeth for his 5 or 6 inches.
Great setup THANKS
Great sled time for a new blade
Is this 2 comments or one?
you gave me some great ideas. why not have the depth slider be on two perpendicular T slots OR better yet use drawer slides.-- then use a doorknob and slots for a strike every 1/4 inch for depth?
Why not just get rid of the sled and use the bandsaw fence. You can start with a draw knife and hand plane to get flat starting side. I think these sleds are a waste of time
What horsepower is your motor Keith, may I ask, enjoyed your video .
Thanks
Frank M it's 1HP Grizzly G0555
Thanks Keith
Frank
Get some serious blades man. Get like a 1tpi if you can. I got a 1.3 tpi 1” wide, 3600 sfpm went through 12” thick frozen maple like it was butter
How about some safety goggles?
Have you done any logs in the 4' range? Not with that clamp but otherwise? Good video and new subscriber today. Thanks!
I have with the alaskan saw mill. Pretty sure there's a video of that to. The longer logs are to difficult to handle on my bandsaw. Thanks for subscribing!
well done
Do you paint the ends of them for the drying process? How long will you let them sit before you can use them?
David Sheaffer - sometimes I do, more often than not I do not paint the ends. I let them sit for at least a couple months, use a moisture meter and check the wood in different spots. sometimes I will cut the log in half and let that sit until I need to cut a piece off for a project.
LIKE THE FACT YOU SHOW THE RESISTANCE IN THE CUTTING AT 10 MINUTE LINE.
I'm interested (really interested) in learning how you squared it up with the chainsaw.
Thanks for this show-how.
duubtuub check out my video breaking down a maple log
How many hp does this saw have? thanks
great video bro keep up the good work!..um from what i figured..I can get (40)4×6x12s delivered for cost of that particular bandsaw(even free pre corner notching done to get the corners to dreadlock)and moved with forklift in a stack thats enough to frame solid a 12'x24' by 8feet tall room and enough to build a staircase in 4feet leftovers..my main question..is how long or how ease would it be to match that precisely ..so making a jig for 12 feet long logs(be pretty heavy) a ramp to guide it up onto rail under saw ..a wench or pulley system both ways so one to go towards bandsaw the other for the ramp to guide the logs up..your input is appreciated and feel free to alter etc etc mix and match that idea or any aspect bro..again thank you
You would need a woodmizer type bandsaw to do something like that, not really feasible with a shop bandsaw
That skipping sounds like too much friction on the guide track of your sled.
Another guy who build a similar project sprayed silicone on the track board to make it slide easier.
Clumsy
Fun fact: A bansaw is a bandsaw that you are not allowed to use.
1 horse power
I farted in a bucket. What's your address?