Been cycling for 20+ years. Just waxed my 1st chain yesterday! Holy SH*T!!!! What a massive improvement. Smooth, better shifting and much quieter. Not to mention clean!!! I'm a convert FORSURE!!
Glad to have another on board! As much as I love the other gains. The cleanliness and how much faster it is to clean your bike is the real upgrade! (As you have mentioned above)
True! When you go to zero friction cycling you come back more confused than before. They know so much and want to give you a deep dive and in the end you it looks like more work 😂
Great video and solid information without all of the fluff. I've been doing is exactly the same way for a year now. The only thing I do differently is when I'm ready to re-wax a chain that has been previously waxed, I boil it first.
Thank you! All the other videos made it seem so complex but it’s really not. I do like the boiling water bath but for me personally I don’t do it so often. Only if the chain gets really dirty!
Thumbs up the nod to ZFC. Adam is fantastic and an absolute mega-contributor to the cycling community. He is the gold standard when it comes to all chain things.
I am glad it could help. I think that some people have over complicated chain waxing or maybe made it sound more complicated than it is. whereas it’s actually a simple process’s
@@cyclingunboxed I avoided chain waxing because it just seemed very daunting, however, after watching your video, it seemed much more simpler. I can't wait to try it. Best!!
Since I ride a recumbent trike my chain is huge. It's at least 2 if not 3 standard bike chains. If I decide to start hot waxing I'll definately go with the crock pot method. Good video!
I’m glad you mentioned this. A bike I didn’t consider. It’s a lot of chain to maintain and a lot to replace so I could see how this would benefit you even more! Thank you
You should get between 30- 40 waxes per bag. You can stretch it further if you give your chain a simple wipe down with a microfibre before you put it back in the pot. At your mileage it should be around 25-30 re waxes per year so about £40 a year for a bag a year
Please let me know how you get along with it. If there is anything you don’t like it helps me with future videos to give better advantages and disadvantages. Please send a new message though as this message chain will get lost on UA-cam. New messages come to the top of my feed.
Interesting. As far as I can tell the chain feels as clean and as empty as can be using ZFCs method there. Any that’s left should be a very small amount and the paraffin will just strip the rest. As long as the vast bulk of it is gone, that’s fine. But I prefer the newer methods using silcas chain stripper or strip chip or ceramic speed ufo cleaner. It’s just a bit faster. I do go over these in my updated video: ua-cam.com/video/zpcMIGNdSfc/v-deo.htmlsi=GDRtScmGJTJsrHfv At least you only have to do it once and then it’s forever clean and just re wax.
White spirits is not the best solvent. In germany there is nitro thinner, which does a much better job and you do not need the alcohol rinse, as nitro thinner has zero residues.
@@cyclingunboxedSimply take a Mix of parafine, stearic acid and fine graphite powder. Stearic acid Strips every last bit of oil and grease out of the chain, for only 1/10th of the cost of the commercial products. Not saying they are Bad, but defenitly expensive.
Great video! Just ordered a bag of Silca wax to put on my new Canyon Grizl, have done a couple of rides with regular lube but it gunks op so quickly. Hoping this will be much cleaner and longer lasting!
Nice! It will be great. If you have already used the chain it may just take a few more baths of the white spirit to go clear but that’s ok. Also there is a break in period for the wax of around 5k but longer here when’s it’s cold in the uk so don’t judge it until you have a few km.
Nice one! I am way too lazy and I use squirt wax based lube. Even with that one it is recommended to clean the chain as you showed, I even bought the jars but never did a proper clean yet.
Honestly great guide, seen so many others which have just convoluted the whole process. Defininitely making the leap to waxed chains after watching this! Only question - when cleaning your bike after a ride, upon washing the frame, do you have to be careful not to get the chain wet? Or what's your process of washing the bike? Thanks.
Great question. For me, the chain is always off when I clean my bike. I just tome my bike cleans with a chain saw/ re wax. I would generally be a bit more careful around the chain when I clean it with a waxed chain on but a bit of water wont hurt it at all. especially since the chain isn't moving, it will just dry out again. I am glad it has helped you make the move. So worth it I think.
@@cyclingunboxed First ride with a waxed chain today. Game changer. Did some dusty/sandy gravel riding and the chain is still mint. Blown my mind, why didn't I do this sooner!
Great video mate! At the beginning and at 7:21 in the video you are standing in front of what appears to be some really cool cycling art. Any details where I can find it?
I am glad it could help! I painted it myself. I had this big canvas lying around and that’s what I thought to do with it: ua-cam.com/users/shorts89W7y6DPe0A?si=20xQHOQvgZkoa1q_ I also painted 3 other smaller ones that you can spot in other videos of mine.
Hi Jason nice straight forward video. However turpentine, mineral spirits are both banned in California. Do you have another alternative that I can use?
Hi, I did not know that. Thanks for filling me in. I think your next best option may be a bit more expensive but will work very well, silca have just released a product literally called chain stripper. That will work like a charm and I believe it is supposed to work a lot quicker than the process shown in this video. A bottle should do quite a lot of chains as well. Sorry I haven’t got any other solutions, If anyone else has any further ideas, I would like to hear them.
@@cyclingunboxed Thanks for the response and advice. Yes I didn’t realize this until I made inquires. It the only state in the US that has this restriction..Yes I did hear about the chain stripper product. I agree it is expensive (as most Silca products are) and it also out of stock presently. Speaking to other cyclists that clean their chain throughly some are just acetone, soap and water. I have also read about people using paint thinners as well. I also would like to hear suggestions that worked for other people…especially if they live in California
This is a great and very clear video. Can you answer 1 question. I am doing LEJOG in may which will be around 1600 km. Clearly I cannot carry lots of chains so how do you maintain the chain on a long distance ride.
I’m glad it could help! Great ride, one that’s still on my bucket list. This is one of those events where wax isn’t superior. The only thing you can do is take a bottle of drip wax. Here is what I would do. Every 2 days, as soon as you finish your ride, run another layer of drip wax on top. This way it has as much time as possible to harden fully by the morning, ready for you next ride. (Works best when inside or at least a warmer night) The other option is to just go for the wet lube such as the silca synergetic. You are still going to be applying it every 2-3 days of riding but will last a bit longer if you get caught in the rain. I have 2 other videos on waxing. 1 for other ways to wax your chain. 2nd is the new version on how to wax your chain. ua-cam.com/video/Q3cEB_KGXOI/v-deo.htmlsi=e_5yTWCB6PvBTNL4 ua-cam.com/video/zpcMIGNdSfc/v-deo.htmlsi=fk1vhrW0FuiFDUdr
👍🏼 - yea just keep it nice and simple What I want to know now is: How should I decrease my current drive train properly before using the waxed chain. Should I take apart the cassette etc??
In terms of the cassette, unless they are really gunked up I would just give it a good clean on the wheel until it’s nice and shiny. You should be good to go from there. (Same with the jockey wheels and chainring) If you want to use your current chain to wax, unless it’s fairly new I don’t think it is worth the effort. You want to repeat the white spirit step until the liquid goes fully clear. This can take a lot of shake baths depending on your chain. Once clear you can then go to the alcohol bath and wax your chain. If there is still a little bit of dirt in the chain, you may find it takes 2-3 re waxes before your waxed chain lasts 300k. It might get noisy earlier otherwise. I hope that helps and any further questions, don’t be afraid to ask.
Nice video! But for that amount of money, i could buy three new chains. But if i do not have a wax heater, can i use two cooking pots, one bigger to boil water and a smaller one, which i can put into the bigger one, to heat the wax?
Yes that will work perfectly fine! I would actually love to know how long it takes to melt the wax if you do decide to go for that method. I’m not sure what will happen, I imagine the smaller pot might float to begin with and then sink as the wax melts? I’m not sure? If anyone knows please enlighten us.
@@cyclingunboxed Yes I did, as said in another comment here. I wax my chains since 2018 with self made wax mix with zero problems and I finished even the 24h Desert Dash MTB race in Namibis with a waxed chain back in December 2019 before pandemic hit the world. Desert dust is really a hard challenge for the chain. Stearic acid, I use it since two years now and it strips the last bit of oil and grease out of the chain while it is in the hot bath. Afterwards all the oil solidifies at the bottom, separated from the wax. So I simply cut that away and have a leftover of nearly clean wax which I fill up with fresh paraffin and graphite powder and stearic acid. I still do my regular degreasing with nitro thinner, but only 2 washes are enough, as the stearic acid takes care of the rest.
I can see how the desert would really challenge it. May have to give this a try one day. Although I think the roads of Surrey and Mallorca pose much less of a challenge for the wax
@@cyclingunboxed As long as there is no water involved wax is a zero brainer. At the desert dash race back in 2019 we had the first rain in months in Namibia on raceday. Only for 1h straight, but I am sure you can imagine, how bike, chain and me looked like.
You certainly could but I think you would lack the temperature control and still risk over heating the wax. Also I think a cheap crock pot costs similar to most pans anyway but gives you the ease of use and no need to think about it.
Besides the very real risk of overheating the wax on the kitchen stove, and possible kitchen fires, using a crock pot in your work area keeps the kitchen cleaner.
Nice video, thanks. 👍 Are there issues with chain rust? Would you recommend this method for others who live in not so sunny places? Do you use waxed chains in summer only or in both summer and winter? 🤔 cheers! JB
Hi, great questions. Chain rust: unless you ride in heavy rain and don’t dry your chain after your ride. Rust isn’t a problem. If you do get caught out in heavy rain, then just give it a wipe down with a micro fibre cloth to absorb most of that water. Or if you are really worried a quick 2 spin wipe through and put it back in your wax pot. If it’s just a light splash or running over the occasional puddle, you will be ok. For places like here in the uk with the rain we have had this summer, I would still recommend. For me, all year round but only on dry days in the winter. Otherwise I use my cheap winter bike with a normal drip lube as the salt really messes up your chain.
Thanks for the information how long the bag is usable....i was looking for this information....you are the first guy talking about it...i thought 45 to 50 bucks is a little much for one time use.
Glad it could help! Yea after about 30 uses it starts to become contaminated. But if you have the space to run 2 pots, you can use the old wax pot as a pre dip to clean the chain even more and then you can dip it in your newer fresh wax pot and then the bag lasts about 60 uses.
Nice video. Couple of questions/points: 1. What no one ever talks about is the cassette. Are you still supposed to lube that or apply GT85 as that will rust if just left as bare metal especially if you ride gravel or off road in wet and nasty conditions. 2. Another thing about waxing is the toxic chemicals used during the process. Ideally it should be done in a well ventilated area and using gloves. I’ve just started getting into chain waxing (how sad) and have started off with the finish line wax lube however, when you read the back of the bottle it contains some extremely toxic ingredients so always good to bear this in mind. Likewise with white spirit and the like. Not good for skin or the airwaves. Also it’s a PITA to dispose of if you want to do so in an ethical manner and not just pour it al into the water system. For me, some of this almost makes me think traditional lube is a better solution however I am sure the manufacturing process of this is also not great for the environment. Food for thought!
Hey, some great questions and points For your first question, you are right, it is one that is missed. Under no circumstances should you ever lubricate or wax your cassette. Reason being is that it just picks up extra dirt. It performs much better bone dry and clean. Further reasons as there is not rubbing or rolling on the cassette and chain ring. The chain perfectly slots in and slots back out with out any rolling (if your chain isn’t worn) if it is worn then you will start to rub the top of your teeth and that’s what causes wear on the cassette. The chain isn’t slotting into the right place). The only part the moves in the system is inside the rollers within the chain. if you want to go deeper Zero friction cycling and the marginal gains podcast go really deep into the mechanisms. If you hot melt wax some of the wax does fall off and harden on the cassette naturally and this dampens the sound nicely. I have honestly never had to clean a waxed chain cassette or chainring in the 3 years I have been doing it. It looks nearly fresh at all times. I do have other videos going into different types of chain waxing: Ways to re wax your chain abroad & Other ways to wax your chain. ua-cam.com/video/Q3cEB_KGXOI/v-deo.html How to wax your chain | Simplified | 2024 ua-cam.com/video/zpcMIGNdSfc/v-deo.html I do also see your second point but here are my thoughts on it. Once the chain is stripped, it’s stripped. It’s a one time job so yes the chemicals aren’t exactly great but you will have to use them once every 1-3 years (depending on how much you ride and how frequently you re wax etc). A single waxed chain should last at minimum 10,000km and most people run 2-3 chains so you don’t have to re wax as frequently. Which in turn makes me think about how much degreaser is used to clean normal lube every few weeks if not more frequently. That can’t be good at all going down the drain system. I do agree with pouring down the white spirit and stuff down the drains but in the uk, councils have a free service where they just come and pick it up for you no matter the amount. (Unfortunately I doubt most people use this) When using the hot melt wax (silca specifically) is purely paraffin and tungstendisuphide. neither of these are toxic nor do they release fumes if kept below their burning temperature which you can’t really do if you just leave your crockpot on low to heat it up. I hope some of this information helps. If you have any more questions, don’t hesitate to ask me!
Hi, great video! I use UFO drip but am considering using the silica wax (but in the bag rather than in the slow cooker as my wife would kill me). Does it leave any flakes on the bike following 2/3 rides? Hopefully that makes sense - cheers
It will flake for the first 15 minutes of riding as the excess is coming off/ out the chain. Easy enough just to brush them off the bike with your hand though. Will be noisy for the first 10 miles and then the whitest chain you have used after then.
Buy a small crock pot Just for chain waxing. Super convenient even if only space to soak one chain at a time. Takes up less space than the ultrasonic cleaner that also is super good for cleaning the chains between waxing. Dry the chain well,, but the hot wax (over 100C) boild any remaining water out of the chain.
Does anything speak against using this method on a vaguely bicycle-shaped piece of rust that i liberated from a skip? New chain obviously. I'd just like to get my bike clean to where it can be touched and won't stain my leg or my clothes by flinging oily grime all over the place.
In terms of keeping your bike clean and getting your leg dirty, well this is definitely the option. You can touch the chain as much as you like and you won’t get any dirt on your hand or your leg. When it comes to the rust however this get more complicated. If you have a new chain but an over worn cassette and chainring, then the components won’t gel well together. Shifting will still be poor. I am also unsure with how the chain/ wax would hold up to rust on other components. It won’t get inside the chain but may wear the outside of the links more (someone else may know more on this) Then there is the maintenance. If you ride in the rain, it’s advised you dry your chain off with a quick wipe using a microfibre cloth so the outside of your chain doesn’t rust. I hope that helps a bit.
@@cyclingunboxed Oh i actually cleaned off most of the rust. And there doesn't appear to be too much cassette and chainring wear at all. I'm actually willing to put some money into this piece of junk. I can get a fresh rear wheel for not too much money if liberating the cassette turns out too difficult or impossible, i'm probably getting a new front wheel because it's a relatively cheap way to get a hub dynamo upgrade, might as well order both together. I've bought fresh tyres just now, found a discounted pair of Schwalbe Land Cruiser Plus, and i've put all new lights on it. I have been able to unseize most of it. The one big problem i have remaining is that the pedal bearings aren't in a good shape. I got one off somehow and replaced it but the other won't budge. The cap on the crankset has been missing and the crankset bolt won't budge either. Worst case i can just drill out and destroy everything and rebuild with new parts, right :D The chain i bought is a... well it's a department store chain Fischer "Rustproof" 85249 and looks vaguely like a clone of a KMC chain but it's of course not genuine... but it was expensive so let's see whether it can live up to its claim. :D It simply looks... zinc plated? A little phosphate maybe but perhaps not even? Not even hard nickel wtf. At least the surface looks rough enough that it should hold onto lubricant well enough.
Hej Jason, love the video thanks for the great explanation. I got myself a used Crockpot for the melting and on low it takes ages. Which model are you using since it only takes a few minutes as you got it melted while showering :)
Mine is a cheap £16 pot. It takes mine about 20-30 minutes to melt actually. If you want speed, insta pot is your friend. I do the same as you and throw 3 chains in one go. I walk of and go do other stuff or clean my bike. Then all 3 done in one go and only waited once
@@cyclingunboxed Thanks for that quick response. Took me over an hour to melt a fresh bag of silca but maybe the outdoor temperature of 8 degree slowed that down aswell.
I am an absolute new cyclist. Only using a Brompton for leisure and commuting in London. I have no idea about what kind of care my chain needs except for cleaning and putting a wet lube (it rains a lot here). So, what I get from this tutorial is that to keep my chain nice, clean and efficient, all I really need is to wax it every 200-300km. Is that it?
Hey, this is a great question. I do have a brief intro into wet and dry lubricants at the beginning of this video: ua-cam.com/video/29j32z1RFEE/v-deo.htmlsi=xMYjrCI6oIsnK62E But it’s not detailed enough any more. You have inspired me and for this Sundays release I am going to do a video on all the advantages and disadvantages of wet and dry/ wax lubricants to help make a better informed decisions. It is scenario specific. In short. The cleaner you keep your chain. The less it will wear, and in turn the less it willl wear your components, saving you money in the long run.
great video thanks! couple of questions/clarifications........1. do you just leave the wax in the slow cooker and then reheat it each time you re-wax?, 2. i've heard a lot of people talk about how great waxed chains are in the dry but how do they hold up in grim wet and cruddy winter cycling seasons (like in the UK 🙂) - is it still 300k ish before a rewax? 3. assuming the chain is dirty during winter then do you need to do a deeper clean before re-waxing? thanks!!!
Yes, just leave it in there and re melt when you need to re wax. Nice and simple. The wax chain doesn’t last as long in heavy wet weather. You are probably looking closer to about 150km before I would re wax. It’s still a lot easier than wet lube for me as the cleaning process takes a lot longer. I would get a second chain so you are melting less frequently. I would also wipe the chain dry with a cloth so it doesn’t oxidise after a wet ride. Generally a wipe over with a cloth is good. But if you want to be sure it’s clean, just 1-2 boiling water baths before you re wax and you are good. I hope that helps!
Great question. If you are here in the uk you can check your local council’s website for “hazardous waste disposal”. They will have 2 options. You can take it to the tip/ dump or they run a service where someone will come round and pick it up. (It should be free). They can recycle it for you.
Great question. For dry gravel, 100%. It’s much more effective than any other lube in the dry. If you are doing mostly wet rides, I wolf either be very hot on the re waxing after you finish or just go for an oil base lubricant. This applies especially if you are doing very wet muddy rides. If it’s intermittent, some wet, some dry. I would stick to the wax and just re wax more frequently. If it’s just a light splash of water/ rain then no need to re wax, just wipe the chain dry after the ride. I hope that helps. Any more questions, feel free to ask.
Can i just use the waxed based lube instead of the submersion? If i use the wax submersion, can i just use the drip wax lube after those 2-300km for the rest of the chain life? Thanks a great video.
Coincidentally I actually have a video coming out on this on Sunday as other ways to wax your chain. You certainly can do this! Every 200-300km you can give the surface a wipe to remove surface dirt and re apply the drip wax over the top. In terms of how many times you can do this, I wouldn’t recommend more than 5 times as the re application does bring a bit of dirt in each time. The drip wax is also far less superior unfortunately after about 5 drip waxes you will need to do a boiling water bath (in the video coming out) to remove all the old contamination and wax. By this point for me because you are taking the chain off anyway you may as well do the hot melt wax again. I hop that helps, if you have any other questions or need more details, don’t be afraid to ask.
Hi, I would recommend that you do clean the cassette before you put your first waxed chain on. After then you should be good and won’t need to clean it ever again. I have never cleaned mine since doing it and it looks great still. A little bit of wax will get on the cassette and this is ok as it dampens the sound a little.
Thank you for this excellent video. When waxing the first time, do we need to do any kind of special cleaning of the cassette and chain rings and derailleur since they have had a oily chain running through or just basic cleaning with degreaser and brush is enough?
Degreaser and brush. The normal way you are probably thinking of. As long as it looks clean you should be good. The 1st 10-20km will Be noisier as the wax starts to polish itself smooth in the chain and some excess will come out onto the cassette and dampen the sound from the cogs a little. Cassette always stays clean and any wax on the cassette, feel free just to leave it. Or if you really fancy, you can rub it off with your finger. I’m glad it could help!
Great video, thanks! Will the chain stay clean - ie not pick up much in the way of road contaminents, or do i need to do a full wash routine between waxes?
It barely picks up anything at all. Especially if it’s dry cycling which we do most of the time. No need to wash at all just give it a surface wipe with a cloth and pop it straight back in the wax pot to re wax. If it gets really muddy you can give the chain a bath in hot water for 30s and should be good to go back in the pot when most the water has dried/ come off. Otherwise no contamination gets inside the chain at all. Hope that helps.
No I don’t. I tend to take it to my local council recycling spot. Because you only need to do it once (I did all my chains together) it’s not too much of a hassle
Hello. After installing my new waxed chain, the chain is skipping when going up from cog 12 to 11 and 10. Both the cassette and the chain are new. And the chain has been installed correctly. I have cycled around 1h. Should it take longer to bed in? Or should I adjust the derailleur? It is a dura ace 12 speed chain. Thanks!
The bedding in time is only about 5 minutes for most waxes so I don’t think that’s the issue there. I would look at micro adjusting your derailleur so see what you can do
Good summary, I do pretty much just as you describe. One difference is I use ultrasonic cleaner at the initial clean stage and also for the first wax to 'drive' the tungsten disulphide into the chain imperfections (no point after that as they are in there permanently). Also no point if not using a wax blend with that type of micro particle additive. Probably sounds crazy but I also keep a spreadsheet with all the chains I have and on which bike with the miles on each as it's really easy to lose track of what in on what and how many miles covered (in which type of weather).
Thank you! I have been tempted for the US for my TT chain. I would love to see some data to know if it really does provide further benefits compared to just normal waxing. Also with you on the spread sheet! It’s weirdly kind of cool to know exactly how many miles your chains have lasted.
@@cyclingunboxed I think Zero Friction and Silca videos have the closest that we can have to proof of benefits. I go the US route for first waxing based on 'what harm can it do?' and the idea that those tungsten disulphide particles 'must' be better attached. We'd need an electron microscope to prove that though 😂
Good question. Paraffin is non toxic so you can pour it into a pot or some foil, let it dry and throw it away. If you want to go further though. Most councils will let you recycle it at their disposal centres or some run a pick up service that come to your house. I hope that helps
Yes, use it’s as a dedicated wax pot. As you said, just leave it in there to cool and it will go solid again. And re melt when you need it. You can just throw your chain in, go do something else for 30 mins or so, give it a shake in the wax and good to go!
Ultrasonic cleaner is like $100 USD and it more efficiently passes the chemicals through the rollers. Leave the denatured alcohol on the chain when you hot wax - the etoh evaporates and forces the wax into the rollers. Connex links can be used many many times instead of the “one time use” ones that everyone uses a dozen times.
Do you have any information on if it actually packs more wax in deeper? It sounds like it would but not so sure $100 for less than 1% more wax is worth it. (Number made up there, just an assumption and the full immersion does so well)
@@cyclingunboxed you can literally watch the denatured ethanol evaporate (boiling point is 173°F). I don’t have evidence nor know how you could analyze this. My point is that you don’t need to use the hair dryer, which could do more harm by encouraging rust if time passes between drying and the hot wax dip. One thing I’ve also learned is that the wax should not be too hot or it runs off the chain quickly. I’ll get a temp laser and do some analysis, but there is an optimum wax temp. Also, toluene is super toxic.
For me it’s about the same as a freshly lubed chain but stays the same. Also some drive chains are just generally a little bit noisier. Have you had the chance for some of the extra wax to embed itself in the cassette yet? And also which lubricant have you come from?
Thanks for this video! I am just about to join the chain waxing bandwagon. Can i use 'No Nonsense Methylated Spirit' fron Screwfix (it says Ethanol but its purple in colour so got me worried) in place of the Isopropyl Alcohol?
I’m glad it could help! I know what you mean because funnily enough my dad used the same purple stuff for his chains. Seemed to work just fine actually but for me I preferred to go safe and buy some isopropyl or denatured alcohol from Amazon. Got about 1l for £12 from memory. As long as it’s more than 90% alcohol you are good. I hope that helps and enjoy the speedy chains!
Jason I have noticed that every video that I watch about wax and cleaning chains always uses Shimano chains. Is the process the same for SRAM chains especially the one with the flat top?
Great question. And yes it’s the exact same process, no need to change anything. I would probably leave the chain in the white spirit/ turpentine soaks for a few minutes longer as the sram factory grease is a bit tougher to get through than Shimano.
I didn't understand what you said about when to remove the chain from the wax , I let mine stay until the wax cool down , what's the problem with that ? You said something I couldn't understand sorry!
Ah, when removing a lot of people recommend you let it cool down until a surface skin has formed. This way you will pack the most wax into your chain. However according to zfc, the majority of extra wax you have in the chain gets pushed out anyway so I don’t wait for it to cool down. I just take it out. You will see how much wax comes out in the first 5 minutes of riding. I hope that clarifies for you
Just leave it in the pot is the easiest way and let it harden. When you need it again, just turn it back on. It would become a dedicated wax pot so nothing else gets used in there.
Can you describe the steps for rewaxing a dirty mtb chain? How many times do you recommend for each step? I’m curious because I’ve soaked/shaken with mineral spirits about 5x and the liquid is still fairly dirty. Continue until it’s clear before moving to alcohol stage?
Hi, yes. Sadly if it’s a used chain, you will find it is going to take hell of a lot of shake baths before you move onto the alcohol shakes. If your chain is fairly well worn, it may just be worth going for a new one. If it still has most it’s life left and you have committed thus far then I would probably keep pushing through. I hope that helps
@@cyclingunboxed yep, it does help. I’ve read a few comments stating that boiling in water before the mineral spirits shake can help too. What are your thoughts?
I don’t suppose you have any links on it? Not sometimes have heard of before so I would quite like to read it! I can see it softening up the old stuff nicely beforehand
Chain rust: unless you ride in heavy rain and don’t dry your chain after your ride. Rust isn’t a problem. If you do get caught out in heavy rain, then just give it a wipe down with a micro fibre cloth to absorb most of that water. Or if you are really worried a quick 2 spin wipe through and put it back in your wax pot. If it’s just a light splash or running over the occasional puddle, you will be ok. For places like here in the uk with the rain we have had this summer, I would still recommend. For me, all year round but only on dry days in the winter. Otherwise I use my cheap winter bike with a normal drip lube as the salt really messes up your chain.
I’m really new, so please forgive me if this is a stupid question, but would you wax the cassettes? Reason I ask is that I bought a second hand bike a few months bag, been using wet lube so far but I want to start waxing at some point. So when I replace the chain, would I need to clean and wax the cassette to make sure it’s clear of any lube and grime?
No, it’s a good question! The only time you will ever need to clean your cassette is before your first waxed chain is going on. After that you won’t ever have to touch it again. When you put a freshly waxed chain on, some of the excess will come off onto the cassette and dampen the sound of the chain a bit for you keeping it quieter. As you start to go past 100 miles on the chain the wax on the cassette will start to flake off taking any dirt with it keeping the casette clean too. The chain will get louder from here but you do have a good 200-300 miles in the chain. I hope that helps!
You can if you want to. You wouldn’t want to use the sauce pan again for food though. The benefit of the crock pot is temperature control. You will never overheat your wax on low heat with a crock pot. Also they are cheap. You can find them from £16-25. Which is about the same price as most saucepans. Yes, I use the slow cooker/ crock pot. Then I can just turn it off and leave it after I am done.
Today I cleaned my new shimano chain using this method. I shook the chain 4 times in white spirit and the first time let it soak for 15min. Then shook 4 times in denatured alcohol. I wiped the chain with a cloth after each time. I noticed that after the last bath in alcohol there was still a little dark residue left on the cloth. So there would still be a little factory grease residue left on the chain. I'm not going to hot wax it this time but going to try Squirt - would this little factory grease residue be a problem in the long run?
Very interesting, I can’t say that I have had that dark residue for that long and no one else has reported it to me on here yet. I’m guessing it was an un used chain? It shouldn’t be a problem at all. After that much washing they will be hardly anything left on it and will probably come out now after the first ride. The hot wax should now remove what is left all being very little of it. My only issue with going to squirt is that you are probably going to have to do some of this process again if you want to use the same chain for the hot melt, just to make sure it’s clear again for the hot melt. If I were you, I would be confident to just go for it. If you are unsure the wax has worked properly, I would just re wax after about 100 miles and then you should be good to go as that second wax bath will re clear and re set any contamination inside. I hope this helps, let me know what you end up doing!
Yes, an unused shimano chain straight from the package. The residue was rather minor in the end, but existent. Maybe next time I'll try to soak it over night in white spirit, which is not a problem if not in a hurry. Went with squirt to experiment with it since I have no previous experience with waxes, but will try hot waxing for sure too!
@@juhanirhama7379 Shimano chains tend to have a lot of factory grease on them, so cleaning them is harder. From my experience, KMC/YBN/ZTTO chains have less factory grease overall.
Most of the wax gets pushed out in the first 10km of riding, leaving behind a hard polished surface of wax. I believe after this the space within the pins and rollers goes back to the chains normal spacings. I’m not so sure personally it would actually reduce the wear indicators of the chain.
Most of the wax gets pushed out in the first 10km of riding, leaving behind a hard polished surface of wax. I believe after this the space within the pins and rollers goes back to the chains normal spacings. I’m not so sure personally it would actually reduce the wear indicators of the chain.
@@cyclingunboxed well, thats the question. i mean, if its hard wax, it cant really be pushed out, and if it does, then the whole idea of waxing is nonsense. But its clearly not, so at what point is wax being pushed out and others remain.
That one goes beyond my knowledge but if you go on to Zero Friction Cyclings channel and ask him I am sure he could give you a much better answer than I could.
@@cyclingunboxed oh ye, wasnt necessarily expecting an answer. I just thought of it and also discarded my own worn last chain before i learned of waxing. I have just seen 'layering up' from silca. I would imagine one could get some more life out of an old chain this way. Its not gonna make it new, but would be interesting
Since many years I reuse the quicklink for the whole chain life. Means around 20-50 times, depending how often i clean the chain off the bike! Never had a problem, they still click in nicely. I do that for Shimano and Sram chains.
I started using the KMC "re-usable Missing Link" in black (PTFE coated), more expensive, but can find it immediately when changing to a freshly waxed chain. You still have to make sure that excess wax will not prevent the links from engaging fully.
Great video - thank you for this. Would you recommend waxing for gravel bikes, or is it not worth the effort? I live in the north of Scotland, so on the majority of gravel rides, my chain/bike will get a bit wet at points.
If you don’t mind wiping your chain to dry it after each ride and probably re wax earlier, every (I’m guessing here) 150km then it would save you a lot of chain and cassette costs in the future. For me if it’s always wet though, I would be lazier and not do it. Might be worth 2 chains, one waxed for dry days and a lubed one for wet days?
So when it comes to re-waxing a chain I have taken the process to another level to ensure that the chain is clean and doesn't contaminate the wax. I submerge the chain in boiling water, remove and wipe the surface clean with a cloth. Then I lay the chain down on an old white towel and using a steam cleaner hit every link with steam. You'd be surprised at how much black wax comes out of the links of that "clean" chain. Once dry it is now ready for a new waxing. I do this with 4-5 chains at a time so at most this is a monthly routine in the summer. PS Up until now I have only used a paraffin and paraffin oil mix, no PFAS. Secret Chain claims not to have PFAS so perhaps I will give that a try.
I like the sound of it! do you know if the wax lasts more than 30ish waxes yet as that's about the recommend change point for a new wax in the pot? Also I have seen some people have 2 pots. They melt them both and clean/melt out the wax in the old pot and then dip in the new pot for maximum life from the wax.
@@cyclingunboxed As I use a mix of paraffin wax and paraffin oil it remains white when cold. To check for impurities I remove the hardened wax from the crock-pot and check the bottom, which is where things settle. With the steam cleaner routine I'm using the same wax for a couple of years now, just adding to the pot as required. PS using the steam cleaning method provides a flexible chain when dry, so you know the old wax is gone. It also provides the best time to measure the chain for wear, which doesn't seem to occur.
Sandy 100%. no sand will get into your chain with a waxed chain. Dry muddy same as sandy. If it’s wet muddy I think less so but if you are happy with wiping the chain off after each ride and more frequent waxes then it will be great.
Is waxing any good for daily commutes all yr round in all weathers? I commute almost every day on shifts here in Ireland including the rain. Mudguards fitted .
Great question. It’s a lot better if you are mostly in dry weather but sadly not for wet. If you have a wet ride its best to wipe the chain down after with a dry cloth as its a lot more exposed to risk of rust. And you will probably be waxing at more like every 100km rather than 250-300. Especially right now with the salt on the roads its extra bad. I personally commute on a wet lube just because of the salt and the rust on the chain. If I had to give you an answer I would say wax for summer, normal lube for winter on a separate chain would be your best bet. Even with the mudguards.
Fully submerge. The only time I use the drip is if I’m away from the wax and need a top up after about 250km of riding. I just do it when I’m cleaning the bike. Give the outside a quick run through to take of surface contamination. Chain off and in the pot and let them heat up together. I go clean my bike or chill out. Give it a swish when melted, take out, cool and put it back on.
i now wax my chain & its amazing, but interestingly for me, my slow cooker didn't melt the wax at low (60-70 degrees celcius), had to put it on medium (80-90)
The first small crock pot my housemate got didn't get hot enough to melt the wax either. The next one sure does. He uses a digital immersion thermometer to monitor the temp., it goes way down when you put a chain into the wax.
It’s pretty close with the UFO if you look at zero friction cycling data. It’s a very fast chain lube but doesn’t do as well in high contamination environments. If mostly dry riding it works great though. Can also be easily cleaned with a boiling water bath as well rather than using any chemicals like a normal chain lube
I can’t say the same. Quietest chain I have used so far. I believe most problems occur if you don’t clean your factory grease off enough or when people make their own home made wax cocktails.
I've been waxing my chains for over a decade and IMO it's not a simple yes or no answer. Waxed chains sound "different" to wet lubes, some people interpret this as noisier and find it annoying, comparing it to a dry chin. I personally think it sounds like how a brand new wet/oiled chain sounds on those first few rides, (kind of a soft "ticky buzz") only with oil that changes quickly, with wax it stays that way for the life of the chain. I personally interpret that as clean efficient and "quiet". Its certainly not "louder" in volume terms. Also I think a lot of people who try waxing for the first time have never correctly degreased a chain before, leaving some or all the packing grease on it which makes it very quiet but also an inefficient dirt magnet (or maybe they just forget what a new chain sounds like) then they throw a waxed chain on and given its human nature to go looking/listening for issues when we try something different they declare its "noisy" and go back to wet lube.
I've been waxing my road bike chains for a year now and after the initial excess dried wax flakes off, my drivetrain is silent! In between rides, I wipe the chain down with a microfiber towel to keep road dust off the chain. I use a two chain system and rotate chains every 4-5 rides or 250 miles. I also use the TBN QRS quick links as they are reusable!
Also just use cheap candle wax. It’s all the same. Add Teflon powder if you are keen, but make sure it’s super micro fine or it won’t penetrate. Bought chain waxes are just marketing
Teflon is very bad for the environment. Actually just candle wax is good enough. It dont need any additives. But you should ad a bit lamp oil so that the wax dont get to hard after it cooles down.
For years I have been waxing my chains with excellent results and I've developed a system that is far simpler than the waxing procedure described above. It is potentially cheaper as well though for convenience sake, I splurged on the heating mechanism for its convenience and simplicity. I did try a crock pot but heating the lubricant took an unacceptably long time. I was surprised that Jason's crock pot was so fast though I'm unsure whether or not he brought the paraffin to liquid state prior to immersing the chains.. First, with regard to cleaning the chain: I respectfully submit that the procedure described is both more expensive and time-consuming. I do agree that starting with a clean chain is best since trying to clean a dirty chain is undeniably messy and requires multiple steps. With a used and dirty chain, Jason's procedure will work well. To remove almost all the preservative grease from a new chain, I just pour some gasoline into a small pan and swirl the chain around for a minute or two. Some residual grease will remain but only a very small, almost imperceptible amount that will be eliminated once the chain is immersed in the lubricant mix. The greasy gas will be used by the lawn mower. I use a Duxtop Portable Induction Cooktop, Countertop Burner Induction Hot Plate with LCD Sensor and a Duxtop Whole-Clad Tri-Ply Stainless Steel Saucepan with Lid, 1.6 Quart, Kitchen Induction Cookware. I use a strainer that I got at the grocery store that nests nicely in the pan making chain-handling simpler than using spokes. Obviously cheaper alternatives are available but I really like this combination. The main objection to the lubricant used is that the expense is exorbitant. One can go to most stores or even to Amazon and buy a box of canning paraffin (US term) for about $3. The missing ingredient is motor oil. Mixing a pound of canning paraffin with 9 ounces of motor oil produces a very effective lube that does not attract dirt and the chain is completely flexible. Shifting is quick and, of course, the chain is silent. I relube every 300 miles but the lube may last longer though I haven't tested for this. I bring the temperature of the lube to 140 F and at that temperature, the lube has the consistency of water. It takes less than a minute for the lube to completely reach the inner parts of the chain. I made up a solution of this lube over 20 years ago and I have been using it ever since since relubing a chain takes only a extremely small amount of lube. Another advantage of chain waxing is that the entire chain is protected from corrosion. This is something to consider if riding in the rain is a frequent experience. In maritime areas this is good as well. Alas, no solution is perfect. Chain waxing is something done at home. When it comes to multiday tours and gravel riding, especially in races that can last hundreds or even thousands of miles, the chain's lube won't last as long as the ride. In this case a different lube is required. Dumonde Tech is a favorite for these rides. For my next tour, I'll be using it. It has been highly praised in Bicycling Quarterly. You may find the following link interesting: ua-cam.com/video/4aM9Zlx3qY0/v-deo.html
It definitely seems like a cheaper option if you want to go for it. If it works for you then great! It’s just for me, the home made stuff isn’t tested. Do you have any mileage that you have recorded on your chains can cassettes and how long they last? Would be great to know. Also with the dumonde tech, it doesn’t seem to rank very high in ZFC’s testing: zerofrictioncycling.com.au/lubetesting/ Have you tried any of the wet lives that rank above it?
@@Gieszkanne I have some doubts about this claim. With most lubricants, you simply drip the lube on the chain rollers. None of the lubricant reaches the exterior side of the links. With a hot dip as I have described, all surfaces are covered. It would take some extreme exposure to see any chain rust and it would certainly be less than with other lubes.
@@philhouck3560 You dont need "extreme exposure" Just one or two rides in the rain! Every one knows that and say it. Even on videos from companies who sell hot wax, that corrosion is one of the downside. And oil pentrate the whole chain!
3:22 I promise you, you are not evaporating grease here haha. If there is any grease on this chain at this point, it will be there after the alcohol evaporates.
There are indeed. They are great but not quite as nice and clean as the immersive waxing. Although still far better than normal lubricants. I use them when travelling and don’t have the wax pot. Once the factory grease is removed which is the hard part (which you have to do for a drop wax anyway), I find it’s by far the easiest and quickest way to keep your chain clean. Chain off In the pot Pull out and let it cool. Pop it back on the chain. All in all it’s easy
I waxed my chain using some basic white candles. Cost 4 euros total and it does the job perfectly fine. First waxbath gets rid of most of the stuff you miss while degreasing so 2 or three baths in clean wax will get you a good result. I was surprised at how well it worked given the chain wasn't factory clean.
ZFC has now finally tested candle wax and if you buy the correct hardness of wax it does test really well. Glad you managed to find a good one! I believe the chain still wears a bit quicker but still far superior to any oil based lubricant. Has also been suggested on here that the paraffin acts as a degreaser when hot as well so now doesn’t surprise me a few hot baths did the job. How much wax in weight did you get for the 4 euros?
My housemate got a small crock pot to use for chain wax Only. He also uses an ultrasonic cleaner before each waxing. Top tip: buy additional chains so you always have a freshly waxed Chan to swap on, very fast change with a master link. Wet conditions (& water immersion) do strip the wax from the chain. MTB riders, and we really appreciate how clean the chains are after many dusty rides.
No, it’s not. It’s the flash evaporation process that you want to remove the film from the white spirit. This video is out of date now. I have a new 2024 video with better options for stripping the chain that most people wanting to wax their chain
True, if you use them a lot. I have personally found that if I just use them once they are ok. And thankfully you only need to do this process once for your waxed chains.
Hmm,,,,$130 + the VERY flammable chemicals used for cleaning + a bunch of faffing around vs JRA with some oil dripped on (and wiped off) when it looks (or sounds) dry. My drivetrain gets cleaned with a bit of diesel when bike is washed with dish soap. KMC chains are cheap, when mine measure 1/2 worn they get replaced It's YOUR time and money...my method saves both, but maybe it's not for everyone?
This is an old video now. There are easier products out now such as: Ceramic speed ufo cleaner Silca chain stripper Silca strip chip (easiest option) The good part about chain waxing is that you only ever have to use these chemicals once. Once the factory grease is off, that’s it. And if you use the Silca strip chip, this is no longer the case. To clean you chain you either put it back in the wax pot or put it in some boiling water. No more chemicals needed. The cleanliness of the chain is just beautiful. Never a greasy mark on you again. + it’s faster and my chain lasts around 10,000-15,000km until at 50% wear. Not sure where you got $130 from. You may have to explain that one to me. For me it’s £40 (wax) + £20 (crock pot) + £24 (strip chip. You can do 6 chains with this as well) Then it’s about £40 a year for a new bag of wax and a chain that lasts about 1-2 years. This is of course dependent on mileage. Honestly never had a single person go back to oil based lubricants after they have made the jump.
It’s not the grease. The white spirit leaves a gold behind and the alcohol flashes away that film. Otherwise the wax has a hard time bonding to the chain.
@@cyclingunboxed Probably more likely the alcohol dissolves the film in solution and simply dilutes it further, but I'm no chemist nor physicist so don't ask me. I just know that when liquids evaporate they tend to leave their solid friends behind.
Someone else has pointed this out to me too. It’s something I am trying to work on. Had it with the word “actually” in another recent video. I’m getting better though.
I just noticed how sh***y my comment must sound. Especially since I'm the most camera shy person myself 🙈Thank you for the great Content & sharing your experience. Much appreciated! PS: there's this guy called Vinh Giang here on UA-cam :)
you are not simplifying things at all. you are repeating the tired old myth of chain cleaning, which is anything but simple. you dont need to remove the factory grease so you can omit those steps entirely. the liquid paraffin which we use to soften the candle wax of our chain waxes, is a very powerful solvent (used by generations of mechanics to clean things), esp when HOT! and will dissolve the grease as well as any other solvent, and it will not be harmful in the resulting mixture. in fact it will be beneficial because it potentially has some anti rust properties. the wax will bond perfectly well to the chain without a preparatory clean in another solvent. its just a waste of time. just put the new chain in your hot wax pot and your done. an old chain, esp one thats been oiled, then yes its best to clean it in separate solvent first so as not to contaminate the wax pot with dirt
Do you have any testing or evidence of this that you can send to me? I would love to read it. Do you also not think that the grease would contaminate the wax a bit as well? Especially if you are doing multiple chains.
@@cyclingunboxed hi if you google paraffin uses, it always says solvent (of oil, grease and other petrochemical gunk) as one of them. its medical uses seem to drown out other uses however. but paraffin has definitely been used as a solvent in places like garages for generations, in parts washing baths. if you search you can find mention of it on car forums etc. i mean liquid paraffin variety not candle wax that home brew chain waxers dilute their candle wax to make it softer and not flake. i think its fair to say the wax mixes we use, if they contain liquid paraffin, will wash off the grease from a new chain. i did have a lively discussion with the guy from zero friction cycling and he now seems to cautiously agree, but he was annoyed at first because he hadnt heard of paraffin being used as a solvent. maybe its just a british thing, that has gone out of fashion. i dont think its much different to white spirit, that has a variety of uses, including medical and a solvent
It’s not a cleaning method I have heard of until now. Thanks for bringing it to my attention. I might bother him and see if he can test this for us because it would save a lot of faff. I guess the pictures of liquid paraffin do look like white spirit and are derived from the same petroleum base.
@@cyclingunboxed thanks for your considered reply. i did actually suggest he ran some tests on liquid paraffins grease/oil dissolving properties, against gasoline, white spirit, isopropyl alcohol etc or run friction tests on cleaned vs uncleaned chains..i'm happy to be proven wrong. and im willing to concede there are still reasons for cleaning a chain before immersing in wax, like removing possible particles from manufacturing. but for us ordinary joes who are willing to forgo total perfection in exchange for ultimate simplicity, i think we can skip the cleaning process. it only gives ammunition to naysayers who claim chain waxing is too much hassle. i was just seeing an untested assumption that the grease isnt compatible with paraffin, like the way oil and water doesnt mix. and i know enough about chemstry to know that isnt true. i just didnt get why everyone went along with it unquestioningly
Using an ultrasonic cleaner, with hot water (& a "green" degreaser) the first time is better that the solvent method, it would be interesting to find out just how much cleaning the wax does on its own. The ultrasonic also gets dust & crud off the chain before rewaxing it. (Edit to fix autospell)
I never comment or even "like" YT videos. But this is as straight to the point and clear as it can be. I'm going to give it a go! Thank you
I’m glad it could help!
So should reconsider liking and commenting more, since the creators of those videos put in a tremendous amount of work for their audience.
Been cycling for 20+ years. Just waxed my 1st chain yesterday! Holy SH*T!!!! What a massive improvement. Smooth, better shifting and much quieter. Not to mention clean!!! I'm a convert FORSURE!!
Glad to have another on board!
As much as I love the other gains. The cleanliness and how much faster it is to clean your bike is the real upgrade! (As you have mentioned above)
The best "how to wax video" yet. Exactly how I do mine. You streamlined most of the things others do unnecessarily.
Thank you. I just felt all the other videos were way too wordy for people starting out and made it sound more complex than it is.
True! When you go to zero friction cycling you come back more confused than before. They know so much and want to give you a deep dive and in the end you it looks like more work 😂
Great video and solid information without all of the fluff. I've been doing is exactly the same way for a year now. The only thing I do differently is when I'm ready to re-wax a chain that has been previously waxed, I boil it first.
Thank you! All the other videos made it seem so complex but it’s really not.
I do like the boiling water bath but for me personally I don’t do it so often. Only if the chain gets really dirty!
A simple water bath before rewax?
I boil the chain for 15 minutes then rewax it in the crockpot.@@mrvulpus
hands down. best tutorial I've ever watched. Thank you and long life for you!
Im glad it could help. I do have a new one out that goes over some other chain stripping methods but nothing changes from there really.
Thumbs up the nod to ZFC. Adam is fantastic and an absolute mega-contributor to the cycling community. He is the gold standard when it comes to all chain things.
Got to love the man for his work. Really moved the game along with the drive chain world
Great explanation! Thanks for the video
I’m glad it could help!
Spot on how I figured out to do it, but I watched like 10 videos. Should have just watched this one.
Glad it could help!
Clicked for the sassy thumbnail, stayed for the great tutorial
I’m glad it could help!
Great video! Super easy to follow your technique. I will give it a shot before installing my new chain. Cheers!
I am glad it could help. I think that some people have over complicated chain waxing or maybe made it sound more complicated than it is. whereas it’s actually a simple process’s
@@cyclingunboxed I avoided chain waxing because it just seemed very daunting, however, after watching your video, it seemed much more simpler. I can't wait to try it. Best!!
Since I ride a recumbent trike my chain is huge. It's at least 2 if not 3 standard bike chains. If I decide to start hot waxing I'll definately go with the crock pot method. Good video!
I’m glad you mentioned this. A bike I didn’t consider. It’s a lot of chain to maintain and a lot to replace so I could see how this would benefit you even more!
Thank you
Great video and explanation with all the details
I’m glad it could help!
Thank you. I liked your video. Great tips for a beginner like me. Best regards.
I’m glad it could help!
I do have a new 2024 version out which has some other chain stripping options on the channel.
@@cyclingunboxed Thanks, I will check it out.
Youve sold it to me been using squirt for a bit but this seems much easier after the initial cleaning
It is! Once the chain is stripped, the hard work is done. Just put it back in the pot to re wax it
@cyclingunboxed how long does a bag last? I do about 130 miles a week , no point saving money on chains and cassette if spending it on wax
You should get between 30- 40 waxes per bag. You can stretch it further if you give your chain a simple wipe down with a microfibre before you put it back in the pot.
At your mileage it should be around 25-30 re waxes per year so about £40 a year for a bag a year
Thanks for the advice , the order has gone in 👌🤜🤛
Please let me know how you get along with it. If there is anything you don’t like it helps me with future videos to give better advantages and disadvantages.
Please send a new message though as this message chain will get lost on UA-cam. New messages come to the top of my feed.
Great vid, easy and simply explained.
I felt like too many videos were making chain waxing more complex than it really is. Thank you!
I did your cleaning method and then ultrasonicated with a water based degreaser - soooooo much more came out.
Interesting.
As far as I can tell the chain feels as clean and as empty as can be using ZFCs method there. Any that’s left should be a very small amount and the paraffin will just strip the rest. As long as the vast bulk of it is gone, that’s fine.
But I prefer the newer methods using silcas chain stripper or strip chip or ceramic speed ufo cleaner. It’s just a bit faster.
I do go over these in my updated video: ua-cam.com/video/zpcMIGNdSfc/v-deo.htmlsi=GDRtScmGJTJsrHfv
At least you only have to do it once and then it’s forever clean and just re wax.
White spirits is not the best solvent. In germany there is nitro thinner, which does a much better job and you do not need the alcohol rinse, as nitro thinner has zero residues.
@@cyclingunboxedSimply take a Mix of parafine, stearic acid and fine graphite powder. Stearic acid Strips every last bit of oil and grease out of the chain, for only 1/10th of the cost of the commercial products. Not saying they are Bad, but defenitly expensive.
@@fw_uke_ha A nice thing about stearic acid is that it actually bonds to the chain (weak +/- bond) as opposed to paraffin, which just coats it.
Never heard of this before, will give it a try!
Great video! Just ordered a bag of Silca wax to put on my new Canyon Grizl, have done a couple of rides with regular lube but it gunks op so quickly. Hoping this will be much cleaner and longer lasting!
Nice! It will be great. If you have already used the chain it may just take a few more baths of the white spirit to go clear but that’s ok.
Also there is a break in period for the wax of around 5k but longer here when’s it’s cold in the uk so don’t judge it until you have a few km.
Nice one! I am way too lazy and I use squirt wax based lube. Even with that one it is recommended to clean the chain as you showed, I even bought the jars but never did a proper clean yet.
It is a lot of effort to clean but at least with the waxing it only has to be done once!
Great video inspired me to use an old crock pot and do my chains.
I love it! I can’t go back to normal lubricant.
Honestly great guide, seen so many others which have just convoluted the whole process. Defininitely making the leap to waxed chains after watching this!
Only question - when cleaning your bike after a ride, upon washing the frame, do you have to be careful not to get the chain wet? Or what's your process of washing the bike? Thanks.
Great question. For me, the chain is always off when I clean my bike. I just tome my bike cleans with a chain saw/ re wax. I would generally be a bit more careful around the chain when I clean it with a waxed chain on but a bit of water wont hurt it at all. especially since the chain isn't moving, it will just dry out again.
I am glad it has helped you make the move. So worth it I think.
@@cyclingunboxed First ride with a waxed chain today. Game changer. Did some dusty/sandy gravel riding and the chain is still mint. Blown my mind, why didn't I do this sooner!
really simple guide, good job
Great stuff
Great video mate! At the beginning and at 7:21 in the video you are standing in front of what appears to be some really cool cycling art. Any details where I can find it?
I am glad it could help!
I painted it myself. I had this big canvas lying around and that’s what I thought to do with it:
ua-cam.com/users/shorts89W7y6DPe0A?si=20xQHOQvgZkoa1q_
I also painted 3 other smaller ones that you can spot in other videos of mine.
Hi Jason nice straight forward video. However turpentine, mineral spirits are both banned in California. Do you have another alternative that I can use?
Hi, I did not know that. Thanks for filling me in. I think your next best option may be a bit more expensive but will work very well, silca have just released a product literally called chain stripper. That will work like a charm and I believe it is supposed to work a lot quicker than the process shown in this video. A bottle should do quite a lot of chains as well.
Sorry I haven’t got any other solutions,
If anyone else has any further ideas, I would like to hear them.
@@cyclingunboxed Thanks for the response and advice. Yes I didn’t realize this until I made inquires. It the only state in the US that has this restriction..Yes I did hear about the chain stripper product. I agree it is expensive (as most Silca products are) and it also out of stock presently. Speaking to other cyclists that clean their chain throughly some are just acetone, soap and water. I have also read about people using paint thinners as well. I also would like to hear suggestions that worked for other people…especially if they live in California
Good vid. 👍
This is a great and very clear video. Can you answer 1 question. I am doing LEJOG in may which will be around 1600 km. Clearly I cannot carry lots of chains so how do you maintain the chain on a long distance ride.
I’m glad it could help!
Great ride, one that’s still on my bucket list.
This is one of those events where wax isn’t superior.
The only thing you can do is take a bottle of drip wax. Here is what I would do.
Every 2 days, as soon as you finish your ride, run another layer of drip wax on top.
This way it has as much time as possible to harden fully by the morning, ready for you next ride. (Works best when inside or at least a warmer night)
The other option is to just go for the wet lube such as the silca synergetic. You are still going to be applying it every 2-3 days of riding but will last a bit longer if you get caught in the rain.
I have 2 other videos on waxing. 1 for other ways to wax your chain.
2nd is the new version on how to wax your chain.
ua-cam.com/video/Q3cEB_KGXOI/v-deo.htmlsi=e_5yTWCB6PvBTNL4
ua-cam.com/video/zpcMIGNdSfc/v-deo.htmlsi=fk1vhrW0FuiFDUdr
👍🏼 - yea just keep it nice and simple
What I want to know now is:
How should I decrease my current drive train properly before using the waxed chain.
Should I take apart the cassette etc??
In terms of the cassette, unless they are really gunked up I would just give it a good clean on the wheel until it’s nice and shiny. You should be good to go from there. (Same with the jockey wheels and chainring)
If you want to use your current chain to wax, unless it’s fairly new I don’t think it is worth the effort. You want to repeat the white spirit step until the liquid goes fully clear. This can take a lot of shake baths depending on your chain.
Once clear you can then go to the alcohol bath and wax your chain. If there is still a little bit of dirt in the chain, you may find it takes 2-3 re waxes before your waxed chain lasts 300k. It might get noisy earlier otherwise.
I hope that helps and any further questions, don’t be afraid to ask.
@@cyclingunboxed - Thanks for the reply! I appreciate that
Nice video! But for that amount of money, i could buy three new chains. But if i do not have a wax heater, can i use two cooking pots, one bigger to boil water and a smaller one, which i can put into the bigger one, to heat the wax?
Yes that will work perfectly fine! I would actually love to know how long it takes to melt the wax if you do decide to go for that method.
I’m not sure what will happen, I imagine the smaller pot might float to begin with and then sink as the wax melts? I’m not sure?
If anyone knows please enlighten us.
Ever tried to use stearic acid in the mix as a fat, oil an dirt solidifier?
I haven’t. I can’t say I have felt the need to, I personally find the wax just works so well.
Have you?
@@cyclingunboxed Yes I did, as said in another comment here. I wax my chains since 2018 with self made wax mix with zero problems and I finished even the 24h Desert Dash MTB race in Namibis with a waxed chain back in December 2019 before pandemic hit the world. Desert dust is really a hard challenge for the chain. Stearic acid, I use it since two years now and it strips the last bit of oil and grease out of the chain while it is in the hot bath. Afterwards all the oil solidifies at the bottom, separated from the wax. So I simply cut that away and have a leftover of nearly clean wax which I fill up with fresh paraffin and graphite powder and stearic acid. I still do my regular degreasing with nitro thinner, but only 2 washes are enough, as the stearic acid takes care of the rest.
I can see how the desert would really challenge it.
May have to give this a try one day. Although I think the roads of Surrey and Mallorca pose much less of a challenge for the wax
@@cyclingunboxed As long as there is no water involved wax is a zero brainer. At the desert dash race back in 2019 we had the first rain in months in Namibia on raceday. Only for 1h straight, but I am sure you can imagine, how bike, chain and me looked like.
Great video ! Can we use a pan on very low heat instead of the pot ?
You certainly could but I think you would lack the temperature control and still risk over heating the wax. Also I think a cheap crock pot costs similar to most pans anyway but gives you the ease of use and no need to think about it.
Besides the very real risk of overheating the wax on the kitchen stove, and possible kitchen fires, using a crock pot in your work area keeps the kitchen cleaner.
Nice video, thanks. 👍
Are there issues with chain rust?
Would you recommend this method for others who live in not so sunny places?
Do you use waxed chains in summer only or in both summer and winter? 🤔
cheers!
JB
Hi, great questions.
Chain rust: unless you ride in heavy rain and don’t dry your chain after your ride. Rust isn’t a problem.
If you do get caught out in heavy rain, then just give it a wipe down with a micro fibre cloth to absorb most of that water. Or if you are really worried a quick 2 spin wipe through and put it back in your wax pot.
If it’s just a light splash or running over the occasional puddle, you will be ok.
For places like here in the uk with the rain we have had this summer, I would still recommend.
For me, all year round but only on dry days in the winter. Otherwise I use my cheap winter bike with a normal drip lube as the salt really messes up your chain.
super
Thanks for the information how long the bag is usable....i was looking for this information....you are the first guy talking about it...i thought 45 to 50 bucks is a little much for one time use.
Glad it could help! Yea after about 30 uses it starts to become contaminated.
But if you have the space to run 2 pots, you can use the old wax pot as a pre dip to clean the chain even more and then you can dip it in your newer fresh wax pot and then the bag lasts about 60 uses.
Nice video. Couple of questions/points:
1. What no one ever talks about is the cassette. Are you still supposed to lube that or apply GT85 as that will rust if just left as bare metal especially if you ride gravel or off road in wet and nasty conditions.
2. Another thing about waxing is the toxic chemicals used during the process. Ideally it should be done in a well ventilated area and using gloves. I’ve just started getting into chain waxing (how sad) and have started off with the finish line wax lube however, when you read the back of the bottle it contains some extremely toxic ingredients so always good to bear this in mind. Likewise with white spirit and the like. Not good for skin or the airwaves. Also it’s a PITA to dispose of if you want to do so in an ethical manner and not just pour it al into the water system.
For me, some of this almost makes me think traditional lube is a better solution however I am sure the manufacturing process of this is also not great for the environment. Food for thought!
Hey, some great questions and points
For your first question, you are right, it is one that is missed. Under no circumstances should you ever lubricate or wax your cassette. Reason being is that it just picks up extra dirt. It performs much better bone dry and clean. Further reasons as there is not rubbing or rolling on the cassette and chain ring. The chain perfectly slots in and slots back out with out any rolling (if your chain isn’t worn) if it is worn then you will start to rub the top of your teeth and that’s what causes wear on the cassette. The chain isn’t slotting into the right place). The only part the moves in the system is inside the rollers within the chain. if you want to go deeper Zero friction cycling and the marginal gains podcast go really deep into the mechanisms.
If you hot melt wax some of the wax does fall off and harden on the cassette naturally and this dampens the sound nicely. I have honestly never had to clean a waxed chain cassette or chainring in the 3 years I have been doing it. It looks nearly fresh at all times.
I do have other videos going into different types of chain waxing:
Ways to re wax your chain abroad & Other ways to wax your chain.
ua-cam.com/video/Q3cEB_KGXOI/v-deo.html
How to wax your chain | Simplified | 2024
ua-cam.com/video/zpcMIGNdSfc/v-deo.html
I do also see your second point but here are my thoughts on it. Once the chain is stripped, it’s stripped. It’s a one time job so yes the chemicals aren’t exactly great but you will have to use them once every 1-3 years (depending on how much you ride and how frequently you re wax etc). A single waxed chain should last at minimum 10,000km and most people run 2-3 chains so you don’t have to re wax as frequently.
Which in turn makes me think about how much degreaser is used to clean normal lube every few weeks if not more frequently. That can’t be good at all going down the drain system.
I do agree with pouring down the white spirit and stuff down the drains but in the uk, councils have a free service where they just come and pick it up for you no matter the amount. (Unfortunately I doubt most people use this)
When using the hot melt wax (silca specifically) is purely paraffin and tungstendisuphide. neither of these are toxic nor do they release fumes if kept below their burning temperature which you can’t really do if you just leave your crockpot on low to heat it up.
I hope some of this information helps. If you have any more questions, don’t hesitate to ask me!
Thanks for covering the quick link re-use question in the FAQ section. I’ve been wondering about that forever. Thanks for the great video!
They do cover it on ZFC as well but there is so much footage to get through. I’m glad it could help!
Hi, great video! I use UFO drip but am considering using the silica wax (but in the bag rather than in the slow cooker as my wife would kill me). Does it leave any flakes on the bike following 2/3 rides? Hopefully that makes sense - cheers
It will flake for the first 15 minutes of riding as the excess is coming off/ out the chain. Easy enough just to brush them off the bike with your hand though.
Will be noisy for the first 10 miles and then the whitest chain you have used after then.
Thanks for the quick reply, I’m going to give it a try - cheers 👍🏻
It’s worth it my friend 🤙
Buy a small crock pot Just for chain waxing. Super convenient even if only space to soak one chain at a time. Takes up less space than the ultrasonic cleaner that also is super good for cleaning the chains between waxing. Dry the chain well,, but the hot wax (over 100C) boild any remaining water out of the chain.
Does anything speak against using this method on a vaguely bicycle-shaped piece of rust that i liberated from a skip? New chain obviously. I'd just like to get my bike clean to where it can be touched and won't stain my leg or my clothes by flinging oily grime all over the place.
In terms of keeping your bike clean and getting your leg dirty, well this is definitely the option. You can touch the chain as much as you like and you won’t get any dirt on your hand or your leg.
When it comes to the rust however this get more complicated.
If you have a new chain but an over worn cassette and chainring, then the components won’t gel well together. Shifting will still be poor.
I am also unsure with how the chain/ wax would hold up to rust on other components. It won’t get inside the chain but may wear the outside of the links more (someone else may know more on this)
Then there is the maintenance. If you ride in the rain, it’s advised you dry your chain off with a quick wipe using a microfibre cloth so the outside of your chain doesn’t rust.
I hope that helps a bit.
@@cyclingunboxed Oh i actually cleaned off most of the rust. And there doesn't appear to be too much cassette and chainring wear at all. I'm actually willing to put some money into this piece of junk. I can get a fresh rear wheel for not too much money if liberating the cassette turns out too difficult or impossible, i'm probably getting a new front wheel because it's a relatively cheap way to get a hub dynamo upgrade, might as well order both together. I've bought fresh tyres just now, found a discounted pair of Schwalbe Land Cruiser Plus, and i've put all new lights on it. I have been able to unseize most of it. The one big problem i have remaining is that the pedal bearings aren't in a good shape. I got one off somehow and replaced it but the other won't budge. The cap on the crankset has been missing and the crankset bolt won't budge either. Worst case i can just drill out and destroy everything and rebuild with new parts, right :D
The chain i bought is a... well it's a department store chain Fischer "Rustproof" 85249 and looks vaguely like a clone of a KMC chain but it's of course not genuine... but it was expensive so let's see whether it can live up to its claim. :D It simply looks... zinc plated? A little phosphate maybe but perhaps not even? Not even hard nickel wtf. At least the surface looks rough enough that it should hold onto lubricant well enough.
Hej Jason, love the video thanks for the great explanation. I got myself a used Crockpot for the melting and on low it takes ages. Which model are you using since it only takes a few minutes as you got it melted while showering :)
Mine is a cheap £16 pot. It takes mine about 20-30 minutes to melt actually. If you want speed, insta pot is your friend. I do the same as you and throw 3 chains in one go. I walk of and go do other stuff or clean my bike. Then all 3 done in one go and only waited once
@@cyclingunboxed Thanks for that quick response. Took me over an hour to melt a fresh bag of silca but maybe the outdoor temperature of 8 degree slowed that down aswell.
The fresh bag takes longer. I don’t know why but the beads don’t spread the heat as much. When a bloc of wax it does melt a bit quicker
I am an absolute new cyclist. Only using a Brompton for leisure and commuting in London. I have no idea about what kind of care my chain needs except for cleaning and putting a wet lube (it rains a lot here). So, what I get from this tutorial is that to keep my chain nice, clean and efficient, all I really need is to wax it every 200-300km. Is that it?
Hey, this is a great question. I do have a brief intro into wet and dry lubricants at the beginning of this video: ua-cam.com/video/29j32z1RFEE/v-deo.htmlsi=xMYjrCI6oIsnK62E
But it’s not detailed enough any more. You have inspired me and for this Sundays release I am going to do a video on all the advantages and disadvantages of wet and dry/ wax lubricants to help make a better informed decisions. It is scenario specific.
In short. The cleaner you keep your chain. The less it will wear, and in turn the less it willl wear your components, saving you money in the long run.
great video thanks! couple of questions/clarifications........1. do you just leave the wax in the slow cooker and then reheat it each time you re-wax?, 2. i've heard a lot of people talk about how great waxed chains are in the dry but how do they hold up in grim wet and cruddy winter cycling seasons (like in the UK 🙂) - is it still 300k ish before a rewax? 3. assuming the chain is dirty during winter then do you need to do a deeper clean before re-waxing? thanks!!!
Yes, just leave it in there and re melt when you need to re wax. Nice and simple.
The wax chain doesn’t last as long in heavy wet weather. You are probably looking closer to about 150km before I would re wax. It’s still a lot easier than wet lube for me as the cleaning process takes a lot longer. I would get a second chain so you are melting less frequently. I would also wipe the chain dry with a cloth so it doesn’t oxidise after a wet ride.
Generally a wipe over with a cloth is good. But if you want to be sure it’s clean, just 1-2 boiling water baths before you re wax and you are good.
I hope that helps!
@@cyclingunboxed super helpful! thanks for the quick response!
How are we supposed to dispose of the acetone and mineral spirits?
Great question. If you are here in the uk you can check your local council’s website for “hazardous waste disposal”.
They will have 2 options. You can take it to the tip/ dump or they run a service where someone will come round and pick it up. (It should be free). They can recycle it for you.
Just seen this video.. can i ask, does it work on Gravel Bikes??? Have you or anyone else waxed a chain for Gravel..
Many thanks 👍
Great question. For dry gravel, 100%. It’s much more effective than any other lube in the dry.
If you are doing mostly wet rides, I wolf either be very hot on the re waxing after you finish or just go for an oil base lubricant.
This applies especially if you are doing very wet muddy rides.
If it’s intermittent, some wet, some dry. I would stick to the wax and just re wax more frequently.
If it’s just a light splash of water/ rain then no need to re wax, just wipe the chain dry after the ride.
I hope that helps. Any more questions, feel free to ask.
Can i just use the waxed based lube instead of the submersion? If i use the wax submersion, can i just use the drip wax lube after those 2-300km for the rest of the chain life? Thanks a great video.
Coincidentally I actually have a video coming out on this on Sunday as other ways to wax your chain.
You certainly can do this! Every 200-300km you can give the surface a wipe to remove surface dirt and re apply the drip wax over the top.
In terms of how many times you can do this, I wouldn’t recommend more than 5 times as the re application does bring a bit of dirt in each time.
The drip wax is also far less superior unfortunately after about 5 drip waxes you will need to do a boiling water bath (in the video coming out) to remove all the old contamination and wax.
By this point for me because you are taking the chain off anyway you may as well do the hot melt wax again.
I hop that helps, if you have any other questions or need more details, don’t be afraid to ask.
@@cyclingunboxed best reply. Subscribed.
Thanks Jason. Do I need to clean the chain rings and rear cassette thoroughly before waxing the chain?
Hi, I would recommend that you do clean the cassette before you put your first waxed chain on. After then you should be good and won’t need to clean it ever again. I have never cleaned mine since doing it and it looks great still.
A little bit of wax will get on the cassette and this is ok as it dampens the sound a little.
Thank you for this excellent video. When waxing the first time, do we need to do any kind of special cleaning of the cassette and chain rings and derailleur since they have had a oily chain running through or just basic cleaning with degreaser and brush is enough?
Degreaser and brush. The normal way you are probably thinking of. As long as it looks clean you should be good. The 1st 10-20km will
Be noisier as the wax starts to polish itself smooth in the chain and some excess will come out onto the cassette and dampen the sound from the cogs a little. Cassette always stays clean and any wax on the cassette, feel free just to leave it. Or if you really fancy, you can rub it off with your finger.
I’m glad it could help!
Great video, thanks! Will the chain stay clean - ie not pick up much in the way of road contaminents, or do i need to do a full wash routine between waxes?
It barely picks up anything at all. Especially if it’s dry cycling which we do most of the time.
No need to wash at all just give it a surface wipe with a cloth and pop it straight back in the wax pot to re wax.
If it gets really muddy you can give the chain a bath in hot water for 30s and should be good to go back in the pot when most the water has dried/ come off.
Otherwise no contamination gets inside the chain at all.
Hope that helps.
@@cyclingunboxed that's great - thank you!!
What do you do with the acetone and turpentine after you use them to clean the chains? Do you put them down the drain?
No I don’t. I tend to take it to my local council recycling spot. Because you only need to do it once (I did all my chains together) it’s not too much of a hassle
How do I prep the crankset and cassette if i'm converting to wax?
Nice and simple.
Make sure it’s sparkly fresh and that’s the last clean you will ever have to do 😊
@@cyclingunboxed just regular degreaser and thats it?
Yes regular de greaser and a brush
Hello. After installing my new waxed chain, the chain is skipping when going up from cog 12 to 11 and 10. Both the cassette and the chain are new. And the chain has been installed correctly. I have cycled around 1h. Should it take longer to bed in? Or should I adjust the derailleur? It is a dura ace 12 speed chain. Thanks!
The bedding in time is only about 5 minutes for most waxes so I don’t think that’s the issue there.
I would look at micro adjusting your derailleur so see what you can do
Good summary, I do pretty much just as you describe. One difference is I use ultrasonic cleaner at the initial clean stage and also for the first wax to 'drive' the tungsten disulphide into the chain imperfections (no point after that as they are in there permanently). Also no point if not using a wax blend with that type of micro particle additive. Probably sounds crazy but I also keep a spreadsheet with all the chains I have and on which bike with the miles on each as it's really easy to lose track of what in on what and how many miles covered (in which type of weather).
Thank you! I have been tempted for the US for my TT chain. I would love to see some data to know if it really does provide further benefits compared to just normal waxing.
Also with you on the spread sheet! It’s weirdly kind of cool to know exactly how many miles your chains have lasted.
@@cyclingunboxed I think Zero Friction and Silca videos have the closest that we can have to proof of benefits. I go the US route for first waxing based on 'what harm can it do?' and the idea that those tungsten disulphide particles 'must' be better attached. We'd need an electron microscope to prove that though 😂
Yea I guess that’s true! Can’t do any harm
When one lot of wax is "done" (too dirty to continue using), what is the most environmentally responsible way to dispose of it?
Good question. Paraffin is non toxic so you can pour it into a pot or some foil, let it dry and throw it away.
If you want to go further though. Most councils will let you recycle it at their disposal centres or some run a pick up service that come to your house.
I hope that helps
Filter it! Most of the contaminants are in solid form, so filtering it should allow you to extract more life our of wax.
Do I just leave the wax in the pot until the next time I melt it down for reapplication? Thank you for the great video btw!
Yes, use it’s as a dedicated wax pot. As you said, just leave it in there to cool and it will go solid again. And re melt when you need it. You can just throw your chain in, go do something else for 30 mins or so, give it a shake in the wax and good to go!
@@cyclingunboxed you’re the best!
Ultrasonic cleaner is like $100 USD and it more efficiently passes the chemicals through the rollers. Leave the denatured alcohol on the chain when you hot wax - the etoh evaporates and forces the wax into the rollers. Connex links can be used many many times instead of the “one time use” ones that everyone uses a dozen times.
Do you have any information on if it actually packs more wax in deeper? It sounds like it would but not so sure $100 for less than 1% more wax is worth it. (Number made up there, just an assumption and the full immersion does so well)
@@cyclingunboxed you can literally watch the denatured ethanol evaporate (boiling point is 173°F). I don’t have evidence nor know how you could analyze this. My point is that you don’t need to use the hair dryer, which could do more harm by encouraging rust if time passes between drying and the hot wax dip. One thing I’ve also learned is that the wax should not be too hot or it runs off the chain quickly. I’ll get a temp laser and do some analysis, but there is an optimum wax temp. Also, toluene is super toxic.
Do you notice more noise on your drive chain with this? I have followed all the steps but it is much louder than expected
For me it’s about the same as a freshly lubed chain but stays the same. Also some drive chains are just generally a little bit noisier. Have you had the chance for some of the extra wax to embed itself in the cassette yet?
And also which lubricant have you come from?
Thanks for this video! I am just about to join the chain waxing bandwagon. Can i use 'No Nonsense Methylated Spirit' fron Screwfix (it says Ethanol but its purple in colour so got me worried) in place of the Isopropyl Alcohol?
I’m glad it could help!
I know what you mean because funnily enough my dad used the same purple stuff for his chains. Seemed to work just fine actually but for me I preferred to go safe and buy some isopropyl or denatured alcohol from Amazon. Got about 1l for £12 from memory. As long as it’s more than 90% alcohol you are good.
I hope that helps and enjoy the speedy chains!
Jason I have noticed that every video that I watch about wax and cleaning chains always uses Shimano chains. Is the process the same for SRAM chains especially the one with the flat top?
Great question. And yes it’s the exact same process, no need to change anything.
I would probably leave the chain in the white spirit/ turpentine soaks for a few minutes longer as the sram factory grease is a bit tougher to get through than Shimano.
I didn't understand what you said about when to remove the chain from the wax , I let mine stay until the wax cool down , what's the problem with that ? You said something I couldn't understand sorry!
Ah, when removing a lot of people recommend you let it cool down until a surface skin has formed. This way you will pack the most wax into your chain. However according to zfc, the majority of extra wax you have in the chain gets pushed out anyway so I don’t wait for it to cool down. I just take it out.
You will see how much wax comes out in the first 5 minutes of riding.
I hope that clarifies for you
It does , thank you ,I'll try your method , great chanel !
how do you store the ax to be reused?
Just leave it in the pot is the easiest way and let it harden. When you need it again, just turn it back on. It would become a dedicated wax pot so nothing else gets used in there.
Can you describe the steps for rewaxing a dirty mtb chain? How many times do you recommend for each step? I’m curious because I’ve soaked/shaken with mineral spirits about 5x and the liquid is still fairly dirty. Continue until it’s clear before moving to alcohol stage?
Hi, yes. Sadly if it’s a used chain, you will find it is going to take hell of a lot of shake baths before you move onto the alcohol shakes.
If your chain is fairly well worn, it may just be worth going for a new one. If it still has most it’s life left and you have committed thus far then I would probably keep pushing through.
I hope that helps
@@cyclingunboxed yep, it does help. I’ve read a few comments stating that boiling in water before the mineral spirits shake can help too. What are your thoughts?
I don’t suppose you have any links on it? Not sometimes have heard of before so I would quite like to read it!
I can see it softening up the old stuff nicely beforehand
Yeah quick links...i use them also more often.
How about longevity in rainy weather, live in sweden. And occasionally it can rain almost everyday for weeks, and winter time how about that?
Chain rust: unless you ride in heavy rain and don’t dry your chain after your ride. Rust isn’t a problem.
If you do get caught out in heavy rain, then just give it a wipe down with a micro fibre cloth to absorb most of that water. Or if you are really worried a quick 2 spin wipe through and put it back in your wax pot.
If it’s just a light splash or running over the occasional puddle, you will be ok.
For places like here in the uk with the rain we have had this summer, I would still recommend.
For me, all year round but only on dry days in the winter. Otherwise I use my cheap winter bike with a normal drip lube as the salt really messes up your chain.
@@cyclingunboxed ah. Thx for reply. Salt on the roads here too. So maybe keep to the ordinary chain lube
I’m really new, so please forgive me if this is a stupid question, but would you wax the cassettes? Reason I ask is that I bought a second hand bike a few months bag, been using wet lube so far but I want to start waxing at some point. So when I replace the chain, would I need to clean and wax the cassette to make sure it’s clear of any lube and grime?
No, it’s a good question! The only time you will ever need to clean your cassette is before your first waxed chain is going on. After that you won’t ever have to touch it again.
When you put a freshly waxed chain on, some of the excess will come off onto the cassette and dampen the sound of the chain a bit for you keeping it quieter.
As you start to go past 100 miles on the chain the wax on the cassette will start to flake off taking any dirt with it keeping the casette clean too. The chain will get louder from here but you do have a good 200-300 miles in the chain.
I hope that helps!
@@cyclingunboxed also, couldn’t you just use a saucepan on a low heat ? Do you need to use something like a slow cooker?
❓
You can if you want to. You wouldn’t want to use the sauce pan again for food though.
The benefit of the crock pot is temperature control. You will never overheat your wax on low heat with a crock pot. Also they are cheap. You can find them from £16-25. Which is about the same price as most saucepans.
Yes, I use the slow cooker/ crock pot. Then I can just turn it off and leave it after I am done.
Today I cleaned my new shimano chain using this method. I shook the chain 4 times in white spirit and the first time let it soak for 15min. Then shook 4 times in denatured alcohol. I wiped the chain with a cloth after each time. I noticed that after the last bath in alcohol there was still a little dark residue left on the cloth. So there would still be a little factory grease residue left on the chain. I'm not going to hot wax it this time but going to try Squirt - would this little factory grease residue be a problem in the long run?
Very interesting, I can’t say that I have had that dark residue for that long and no one else has reported it to me on here yet. I’m guessing it was an un used chain?
It shouldn’t be a problem at all. After that much washing they will be hardly anything left on it and will probably come out now after the first ride. The hot wax should now remove what is left all being very little of it.
My only issue with going to squirt is that you are probably going to have to do some of this process again if you want to use the same chain for the hot melt, just to make sure it’s clear again for the hot melt. If I were you, I would be confident to just go for it.
If you are unsure the wax has worked properly, I would just re wax after about 100 miles and then you should be good to go as that second wax bath will re clear and re set any contamination inside.
I hope this helps, let me know what you end up doing!
Yes, an unused shimano chain straight from the package. The residue was rather minor in the end, but existent. Maybe next time I'll try to soak it over night in white spirit, which is not a problem if not in a hurry. Went with squirt to experiment with it since I have no previous experience with waxes, but will try hot waxing for sure too!
@@juhanirhama7379 I think you may find a problem with rust if you leave overnight?
@@stephencharles6932 many people seem to do it and some companies advise to do so.
@@juhanirhama7379 Shimano chains tend to have a lot of factory grease on them, so cleaning them is harder.
From my experience, KMC/YBN/ZTTO chains have less factory grease overall.
I wonder if someone did it on a used chain. I could imagine the wax occupying a bit of space which reduces some of the stretch
Most of the wax gets pushed out in the first 10km of riding, leaving behind a hard polished surface of wax. I believe after this the space within the pins and rollers goes back to the chains normal spacings. I’m not so sure personally it would actually reduce the wear indicators of the chain.
Most of the wax gets pushed out in the first 10km of riding, leaving behind a hard polished surface of wax. I believe after this the space within the pins and rollers goes back to the chains normal spacings. I’m not so sure personally it would actually reduce the wear indicators of the chain.
@@cyclingunboxed well, thats the question. i mean, if its hard wax, it cant really be pushed out, and if it does, then the whole idea of waxing is nonsense. But its clearly not, so at what point is wax being pushed out and others remain.
That one goes beyond my knowledge but if you go on to Zero Friction Cyclings channel and ask him I am sure he could give you a much better answer than I could.
@@cyclingunboxed oh ye, wasnt necessarily expecting an answer. I just thought of it and also discarded my own worn last chain before i learned of waxing.
I have just seen 'layering up' from silca. I would imagine one could get some more life out of an old chain this way. Its not gonna make it new, but would be interesting
Since many years I reuse the quicklink for the whole chain life. Means around 20-50 times, depending how often i clean the chain off the bike! Never had a problem, they still click in nicely. I do that for Shimano and Sram chains.
That’s a lot! I have never wanted to push it really but I might try push the boat out now
I started using the KMC "re-usable Missing Link" in black (PTFE coated), more expensive, but can find it immediately when changing to a freshly waxed chain. You still have to make sure that excess wax will not prevent the links from engaging fully.
Great video - thank you for this. Would you recommend waxing for gravel bikes, or is it not worth the effort? I live in the north of Scotland, so on the majority of gravel rides, my chain/bike will get a bit wet at points.
If you don’t mind wiping your chain to dry it after each ride and probably re wax earlier, every (I’m guessing here) 150km then it would save you a lot of chain and cassette costs in the future.
For me if it’s always wet though, I would be lazier and not do it.
Might be worth 2 chains, one waxed for dry days and a lubed one for wet days?
@@cyclingunboxed, good suggestions - thank you. Might do what you did and buy 4 chains and rotate them out
Yes, buy multiple chains, you can wax three as easy as one, and changing a Clean chain is so quick and simple.
So when it comes to re-waxing a chain I have taken the process to another level to ensure that the chain is clean and doesn't contaminate the wax. I submerge the chain in boiling water, remove and wipe the surface clean with a cloth. Then I lay the chain down on an old white towel and using a steam cleaner hit every link with steam. You'd be surprised at how much black wax comes out of the links of that "clean" chain. Once dry it is now ready for a new waxing. I do this with 4-5 chains at a time so at most this is a monthly routine in the summer. PS Up until now I have only used a paraffin and paraffin oil mix, no PFAS. Secret Chain claims not to have PFAS so perhaps I will give that a try.
I like the sound of it! do you know if the wax lasts more than 30ish waxes yet as that's about the recommend change point for a new wax in the pot?
Also I have seen some people have 2 pots. They melt them both and clean/melt out the wax in the old pot and then dip in the new pot for maximum life from the wax.
@@cyclingunboxed As I use a mix of paraffin wax and paraffin oil it remains white when cold. To check for impurities I remove the hardened wax from the crock-pot and check the bottom, which is where things settle. With the steam cleaner routine I'm using the same wax for a couple of years now, just adding to the pot as required. PS using the steam cleaning method provides a flexible chain when dry, so you know the old wax is gone. It also provides the best time to measure the chain for wear, which doesn't seem to occur.
Does waxing suitable for muddy or sandy area ?
Sandy 100%. no sand will get into your chain with a waxed chain. Dry muddy same as sandy. If it’s wet muddy I think less so but if you are happy with wiping the chain off after each ride and more frequent waxes then it will be great.
Is waxing any good for daily commutes all yr round in all weathers?
I commute almost every day on shifts here in Ireland including the rain.
Mudguards fitted .
Great question. It’s a lot better if you are mostly in dry weather but sadly not for wet.
If you have a wet ride its best to wipe the chain down after with a dry cloth as its a lot more exposed to risk of rust. And you will probably be waxing at more like every 100km rather than 250-300. Especially right now with the salt on the roads its extra bad.
I personally commute on a wet lube just because of the salt and the rust on the chain.
If I had to give you an answer I would say wax for summer, normal lube for winter on a separate chain would be your best bet. Even with the mudguards.
Or buy multiple chains, so you always have a freshly waxed one to put on. Worked for me when year-round commuting in Oregon USA.
Legend
i just want to ask, do you do a full submersive max every time or just initially and top it up with drip?
Fully submerge. The only time I use the drip is if I’m away from the wax and need a top up after about 250km of riding.
I just do it when I’m cleaning the bike. Give the outside a quick run through to take of surface contamination. Chain off and in the pot and let them heat up together. I go clean my bike or chill out. Give it a swish when melted, take out, cool and put it back on.
How many liter is your slow cooker?
My one is 3 litres and that’s perfect for 1 bag
i now wax my chain & its amazing, but interestingly for me, my slow cooker didn't melt the wax at low (60-70 degrees celcius), had to put it on medium (80-90)
I guess it must just run at a lower temp? I imagine most will be fine
The first small crock pot my housemate got didn't get hot enough to melt the wax either. The next one sure does. He uses a digital immersion thermometer to monitor the temp., it goes way down when you put a chain into the wax.
Do you think if I just use UFO drip rather than immersion, how much worse is it?
It’s pretty close with the UFO if you look at zero friction cycling data. It’s a very fast chain lube but doesn’t do as well in high contamination environments. If mostly dry riding it works great though.
Can also be easily cleaned with a boiling water bath as well rather than using any chemicals like a normal chain lube
Im hearing that waxed chains are noisy, is that correct?
I can’t say the same. Quietest chain I have used so far.
I believe most problems occur if you don’t clean your factory grease off enough or when people make their own home made wax cocktails.
I've been waxing my chains for over a decade and IMO it's not a simple yes or no answer. Waxed chains sound "different" to wet lubes, some people interpret this as noisier and find it annoying, comparing it to a dry chin. I personally think it sounds like how a brand new wet/oiled chain sounds on those first few rides, (kind of a soft "ticky buzz") only with oil that changes quickly, with wax it stays that way for the life of the chain. I personally interpret that as clean efficient and "quiet". Its certainly not "louder" in volume terms.
Also I think a lot of people who try waxing for the first time have never correctly degreased a chain before, leaving some or all the packing grease on it which makes it very quiet but also an inefficient dirt magnet (or maybe they just forget what a new chain sounds like) then they throw a waxed chain on and given its human nature to go looking/listening for issues when we try something different they declare its "noisy" and go back to wet lube.
I've been waxing my road bike chains for a year now and after the initial excess dried wax flakes off, my drivetrain is silent! In between rides, I wipe the chain down with a microfiber towel to keep road dust off the chain. I use a two chain system and rotate chains every 4-5 rides or 250 miles. I also use the TBN QRS quick links as they are reusable!
I actually find it easier to clean a used chain, because factory grease is harder to remove than any chain lube I've used.
Do you not find yourself doing more flushes before it’s clean?
SRAM is notoriously bad for how hard their grease is to remove.
Also just use cheap candle wax. It’s all the same. Add Teflon powder if you are keen, but make sure it’s super micro fine or it won’t penetrate. Bought chain waxes are just marketing
Teflon is very bad for the environment. Actually just candle wax is good enough. It dont need any additives. But you should ad a bit lamp oil so that the wax dont get to hard after it cooles down.
Why not wax the super look?
You are going to have describe further for me. I’m not sure I understand.
For years I have been waxing my chains with excellent results and I've developed a system that is far simpler than the waxing procedure described above. It is potentially cheaper as well though for convenience sake, I splurged on the heating mechanism for its convenience and simplicity. I did try a crock pot but heating the lubricant took an unacceptably long time. I was surprised that Jason's crock pot was so fast though I'm unsure whether or not he brought the paraffin to liquid state prior to immersing the chains..
First, with regard to cleaning the chain: I respectfully submit that the procedure described is both more expensive and time-consuming. I do agree that starting with a clean chain is best since trying to clean a dirty chain is undeniably messy and requires multiple steps. With a used and dirty chain, Jason's procedure will work well. To remove almost all the preservative grease from a new chain, I just pour some gasoline into a small pan and swirl the chain around for a minute or two. Some residual grease will remain but only a very small, almost imperceptible amount that will be eliminated once the chain is immersed in the lubricant mix. The greasy gas will be used by the lawn mower.
I use a Duxtop Portable Induction Cooktop, Countertop Burner Induction Hot Plate with LCD Sensor and a Duxtop Whole-Clad Tri-Ply Stainless Steel Saucepan with Lid, 1.6 Quart, Kitchen Induction Cookware. I use a strainer that I got at the grocery store that nests nicely in the pan making chain-handling simpler than using spokes. Obviously cheaper alternatives are available but I really like this combination.
The main objection to the lubricant used is that the expense is exorbitant. One can go to most stores or even to Amazon and buy a box of canning paraffin (US term) for about $3. The missing ingredient is motor oil. Mixing a pound of canning paraffin with 9 ounces of motor oil produces a very effective lube that does not attract dirt and the chain is completely flexible. Shifting is quick and, of course, the chain is silent. I relube every 300 miles but the lube may last longer though I haven't tested for this. I bring the temperature of the lube to 140 F and at that temperature, the lube has the consistency of water. It takes less than a minute for the lube to completely reach the inner parts of the chain. I made up a solution of this lube over 20 years ago and I have been using it ever since since relubing a chain takes only a extremely small amount of lube.
Another advantage of chain waxing is that the entire chain is protected from corrosion. This is something to consider if riding in the rain is a frequent experience. In maritime areas this is good as well.
Alas, no solution is perfect. Chain waxing is something done at home. When it comes to multiday tours and gravel riding, especially in races that can last hundreds or even thousands of miles, the chain's lube won't last as long as the ride. In this case a different lube is required. Dumonde Tech is a favorite for these rides. For my next tour, I'll be using it. It has been highly praised in Bicycling Quarterly. You may find the following link interesting: ua-cam.com/video/4aM9Zlx3qY0/v-deo.html
It definitely seems like a cheaper option if you want to go for it. If it works for you then great! It’s just for me, the home made stuff isn’t tested. Do you have any mileage that you have recorded on your chains can cassettes and how long they last? Would be great to know.
Also with the dumonde tech, it doesn’t seem to rank very high in ZFC’s testing: zerofrictioncycling.com.au/lubetesting/
Have you tried any of the wet lives that rank above it?
From my experience waxing gives less protection from corrosion and I have heard the same from many videos.
@@Gieszkanne I have some doubts about this claim. With most lubricants, you simply drip the lube on the chain rollers. None of the lubricant reaches the exterior side of the links. With a hot dip as I have described, all surfaces are covered. It would take some extreme exposure to see any chain rust and it would certainly be less than with other lubes.
@@philhouck3560 You dont need "extreme exposure" Just one or two rides in the rain! Every one knows that and say it. Even on videos from companies who sell hot wax, that corrosion is one of the downside. And oil pentrate the whole chain!
Bravo...............i just sub to you channel
Thanks my man 🤙
3:22 I promise you, you are not evaporating grease here haha. If there is any grease on this chain at this point, it will be there after the alcohol evaporates.
You are right. I did say afterwards which is what I was meant to say only, it’s for taking away any film left over by the white spirit.
Please note: Not sure about using a hair dryer near and on flammables!!!!
Great video.
But Why you wearing warm winter hat in a apartment :)
Because this was shot in England in winter when it cost thousands just to heat your house 😂
I keep seeing these laborious chain waxing videos. There's are chain lubes with wax.
There are indeed. They are great but not quite as nice and clean as the immersive waxing. Although still far better than normal lubricants.
I use them when travelling and don’t have the wax pot.
Once the factory grease is removed which is the hard part (which you have to do for a drop wax anyway), I find it’s by far the easiest and quickest way to keep your chain clean.
Chain off
In the pot
Pull out and let it cool.
Pop it back on the chain.
All in all it’s easy
@@cyclingunboxed hence the boiling. I see.
I waxed my chain using some basic white candles. Cost 4 euros total and it does the job perfectly fine. First waxbath gets rid of most of the stuff you miss while degreasing so 2 or three baths in clean wax will get you a good result. I was surprised at how well it worked given the chain wasn't factory clean.
ZFC has now finally tested candle wax and if you buy the correct hardness of wax it does test really well. Glad you managed to find a good one!
I believe the chain still wears a bit quicker but still far superior to any oil based lubricant.
Has also been suggested on here that the paraffin acts as a degreaser when hot as well so now doesn’t surprise me a few hot baths did the job.
How much wax in weight did you get for the 4 euros?
Please stop using our kitchen appliances for weird things Jason…
🤣🤣
mmm waxy stew - helps with digestion!
My housemate got a small crock pot to use for chain wax Only. He also uses an ultrasonic cleaner before each waxing. Top tip: buy additional chains so you always have a freshly waxed Chan to swap on, very fast change with a master link. Wet conditions (& water immersion) do strip the wax from the chain. MTB riders, and we really appreciate how clean the chains are after many dusty rides.
I wonder what is in the fridge? 😀
This is one of the best UA-cam comments I've seen
Denatured alcohol is NOT acetone!!!
No, it’s not. It’s the flash evaporation process that you want to remove the film from the white spirit.
This video is out of date now. I have a new 2024 video with better options for stripping the chain that most people wanting to wax their chain
Don’t use glass jars. They can smash.
True, if you use them a lot. I have personally found that if I just use them once they are ok. And thankfully you only need to do this process once for your waxed chains.
Nice copy of Oz Cycle the original chain waxer!
Dude, probably a little risky using electric appliances around flammable liquids. I wouldn’t use the hair dryer
Hmm,,,,$130 + the VERY flammable chemicals used for cleaning + a bunch of faffing around vs JRA with some oil dripped on (and wiped off) when it looks (or sounds) dry. My drivetrain gets cleaned with a bit of diesel when bike is washed with dish soap. KMC chains are cheap, when mine measure 1/2 worn they get replaced
It's YOUR time and money...my method saves both, but maybe it's not for everyone?
This is an old video now.
There are easier products out now such as:
Ceramic speed ufo cleaner
Silca chain stripper
Silca strip chip (easiest option)
The good part about chain waxing is that you only ever have to use these chemicals once. Once the factory grease is off, that’s it. And if you use the Silca strip chip, this is no longer the case.
To clean you chain you either put it back in the wax pot or put it in some boiling water. No more chemicals needed.
The cleanliness of the chain is just beautiful. Never a greasy mark on you again. + it’s faster and my chain lasts around 10,000-15,000km until at 50% wear.
Not sure where you got $130 from. You may have to explain that one to me.
For me it’s £40 (wax) + £20 (crock pot) + £24 (strip chip. You can do 6 chains with this as well)
Then it’s about £40 a year for a new bag of wax and a chain that lasts about 1-2 years. This is of course dependent on mileage.
Honestly never had a single person go back to oil based lubricants after they have made the jump.
flash evaporating the grease away???? what kind of mad science is this?
It’s not the grease. The white spirit leaves a gold behind and the alcohol flashes away that film. Otherwise the wax has a hard time bonding to the chain.
@@cyclingunboxed Probably more likely the alcohol dissolves the film in solution and simply dilutes it further, but I'm no chemist nor physicist so don't ask me. I just know that when liquids evaporate they tend to leave their solid friends behind.
You are using the word 'literally' as an unnecessary filler word
Someone else has pointed this out to me too. It’s something I am trying to work on. Had it with the word “actually” in another recent video. I’m getting better though.
I just noticed how sh***y my comment must sound. Especially since I'm the most camera shy person myself 🙈Thank you for the great Content & sharing your experience. Much appreciated!
PS: there's this guy called Vinh Giang here on UA-cam :)
No worries at all. If anything it actually helps because I can develop from it. Thank you. I will certainly check him out!
you are not simplifying things at all. you are repeating the tired old myth of chain cleaning, which is anything but simple. you dont need to remove the factory grease so you can omit those steps entirely. the liquid paraffin which we use to soften the candle wax of our chain waxes, is a very powerful solvent (used by generations of mechanics to clean things), esp when HOT! and will dissolve the grease as well as any other solvent, and it will not be harmful in the resulting mixture. in fact it will be beneficial because it potentially has some anti rust properties. the wax will bond perfectly well to the chain without a preparatory clean in another solvent. its just a waste of time. just put the new chain in your hot wax pot and your done. an old chain, esp one thats been oiled, then yes its best to clean it in separate solvent first so as not to contaminate the wax pot with dirt
Do you have any testing or evidence of this that you can send to me? I would love to read it. Do you also not think that the grease would contaminate the wax a bit as well? Especially if you are doing multiple chains.
@@cyclingunboxed hi if you google paraffin uses, it always says solvent (of oil, grease and other petrochemical gunk) as one of them. its medical uses seem to drown out other uses however. but paraffin has definitely been used as a solvent in places like garages for generations, in parts washing baths. if you search you can find mention of it on car forums etc. i mean liquid paraffin variety not candle wax that home brew chain waxers dilute their candle wax to make it softer and not flake. i think its fair to say the wax mixes we use, if they contain liquid paraffin, will wash off the grease from a new chain. i did have a lively discussion with the guy from zero friction cycling and he now seems to cautiously agree, but he was annoyed at first because he hadnt heard of paraffin being used as a solvent. maybe its just a british thing, that has gone out of fashion. i dont think its much different to white spirit, that has a variety of uses, including medical and a solvent
It’s not a cleaning method I have heard of until now. Thanks for bringing it to my attention. I might bother him and see if he can test this for us because it would save a lot of faff. I guess the pictures of liquid paraffin do look like white spirit and are derived from the same petroleum base.
@@cyclingunboxed thanks for your considered reply. i did actually suggest he ran some tests on liquid paraffins grease/oil dissolving properties, against gasoline, white spirit, isopropyl alcohol etc or run friction tests on cleaned vs uncleaned chains..i'm happy to be proven wrong. and im willing to concede there are still reasons for cleaning a chain before immersing in wax, like removing possible particles from manufacturing. but for us ordinary joes who are willing to forgo total perfection in exchange for ultimate simplicity, i think we can skip the cleaning process. it only gives ammunition to naysayers who claim chain waxing is too much hassle. i was just seeing an untested assumption that the grease isnt compatible with paraffin, like the way oil and water doesnt mix. and i know enough about chemstry to know that isnt true. i just didnt get why everyone went along with it unquestioningly
Using an ultrasonic cleaner, with hot water (& a "green" degreaser) the first time is better that the solvent method, it would be interesting to find out just how much cleaning the wax does on its own. The ultrasonic also gets dust & crud off the chain before rewaxing it. (Edit to fix autospell)