I would real appreciate the proper labeles of this. Your work is amazing and worthy of praise. My work is actually in Neon Art. The above items created are LED Flex. Neon is a Nobel gas. Neon sign making is an art of 100 years of history. It is made with bending glass, attaching Electrodes, bombarding high voltage to vaporize the air and create a vacuum inside to insert your choice of Nobel Gas. Neon is more sustainable to the Earth (Except helium... But we put that in balloons.) LED Flex is more accessible but Neon is a skill trained through years of experience. The glow is definably different. Movies still commission Neon signs as it can't be properly faked. Many museum will have classes to make your own neon sign. Museums work hard to define Neon to the general population. World War 2 saw many laws restricting Neon that are still in use today. Cities are starting to recognize the history and significance of Neon. Only a handful of artists still bend. In the UK it is listed as an endangered craft and less the 100 people still bend and 1is training. I understand the significance of your work and admire it myself. Check out the work of Michelle Flechtner, Roxy Rose, The studio Brooklyn Bends, Museum of Neon Art Instagram and TikTok, UA-cam's How to make Neon by Eater, Jerry Rig Everything, and Neon Preservation for a video series of building up a shop. Neon is an amazing art and experience. Happy building or as Neon Artists say Happy Bending.
Would you consider a how to video on designing them? I'd like to make a custom design but wouldn't know where to start, my fusion skills are limited to say the least.
ok this project is awesome i would like to see an updated version of this showing how to do a bigger version of this like a silhouette of Mega Man or to light up back side rim of an arcade cabinet
I was intrigued the first time I watched this video. I decided that I could this, even though I have never soldered anything. After I received your kit, I printed the parts and started worrying about getting it to work. I ordered some 22 AWG wire, and a soldering iron and when I had everything, I took a long time to trim the lights and get the project rolling. This morning, I finished it. Works great and was not as hard to assemple as I thought. Printed everything on my Ender 3 v2, which came out perfect. Thank you for the ideas and the new experiences.
I am retired high school engineering teacher and you did a great job on your video!! I will be using for my projects. Thanks for sharing. Again GREAT JOB!!
Thanks so much, originally they were only going to be USB but then friend need to put some on a shelf which made me realise the battery option would be great. :)
That's the diy I'd like to see more on UA-cam. I consider my level of electronics knowledge way higher by that moment, but I can imagine one who would enjoy following the assembly with ease! Great video
Of all of Lewis's videos which have resulted in me making awesome projects, this one stands out primarily because Lewis is an absolute stud with a winter beard.
Just finished you’re shelf edge Clock project and started upgrading to a new desk. Guess I have to try this project now aswell. You’re such a legend! Thank you for your amazing diy ideas + instructions❤
For a cleaner look: 1) print only the sides frontside down, 2) leave the print on the buildplate until room temp, 3) fill the gap with liquid matte acrylic medium (or translucent paint if you want it permanently colored), 4) run the heatbed at normal temp to dry the paint, 5) remove the print very carefully so that the paint lifts off with it. Now you have a perfect frontside without any gaps between the the frame and the lit area.
Finally a channel that explains the electronics step by step! Thank you very much. Really amazing project. I would love to find a good project to make a diy weather station, but the ones I’ve found on UA-cam, the guys building them talk too fast about what they’re doing so I get lost about the process. Would you like to make one?
I feel my PCB knowledge still needs to grow more before I would feel comfortable making such a video but thanks for the request - it's great to know what people would like to see.
Couple of questions: 1. Why did you use a 555 timer to PWM the LEDs rather than just use a pot to adjust the voltage supply? (I suppose you save some power when running on batteries) 2. Why do you need the 2 diodes - if you are just using the multistable mode of the 555, you don't need diodes
Thanks. Yes, if I rush a personal project together without a PCB now it all just seems so wild and temporary. The PCB's remove the rats nest of wires and hold things down securely. I encourage you to find the time. You won't regret it. 🙂
Great video and wonderful project, I just might try this one out :) Thanks for your contagious enthusiasm for building cool stuff! btw, your video editing as noticeably improved!
Very cool, I will be placing an order soon. I will try to design a Christmas tree if I can find the time, haha maybe ill have it ready for next year. Thank you.
Yes of course, the 'tracks' groove should be 5mm wide and 10mm deep. I made my walls 1mm wide and made the rear side of the tracks 3mm thick to help support the shape.
A very common technique for marking electrolytic capacitors on PCBs is to match the look of the capacitor, so to have the capacitor symbol as a circle with one half block white, potentially with a minus sign printed as a negative and to have the other side with just the outline. The way you did it with a tiny minus sign beside the circle may be hard to see and may not print right or may be knocked off. Generally when making PCB silkscreens you want to make it as obvious and large as possible what orientation it goes. The diode symbols are good though. You should wear safety glasses when soldering, not just trimming the legs. Hot bits of flux or solder can spit off and go a pretty far and that definitely isn’t good for your eyes.
Looks like an interesting project for some free days. One comment from my side, would it be possible to mount the AA holder on the bottom side of the PCB that the batteries can be easy changed.? Maybe the housing needs then some more mm height, but no need to remove the 4 screws always for a battery change.
You are exactly right - you can mount them on the underside but the base would need to increase in height. I had to choose between a smaller base and easier access and opted for the smaller form factor - which is defiantly preferable for those who choose to power their via the USB port.
@@DIYMachines super cool build. For the next iteration I would also move the potentiometer and battery holder to the bottom and the Switch to the side (mounted from the bottom). This way you should be able to keep the same hight of the base. But regardless, really wanna build this :)
Parabens, pelo tutorial ,perfeito , e lindo o trabalho , gostaria de saber se esta placa PCB , é feito por vc, ou encontro no brasil , para enviar , via Amazon , não compensa, fica muito caro . Obrigado
Just curious, is there any reason you didn't connect the led strips to eachother and instead run separate wires to the board for each section? Really clean project btw, definitely planning on making some of these as gifts for people.
@@Holmesy89 Probably has to do with the fact that if you want to connect the strips together, the voltage needed to power them is greater because the voltage adds up. Instead, if you run wires for each segment you are connecting them in parallel, so you only need the rated voltage to make everything work. If the LED strips are powered via batteries or USB, you only have 5V so you shouldn't connect segments in series.
Voltage adds?? No, not so. If you connect 2,3,4, or any number of led strips together, the voltage required to drive them remains the same, 5v in this case. What changes is the current draw(amps). If one strip draws 250mA, would draw 500mA. If you connect longer strips with lots of leds, you can have voltage drop, but that won’t be a problem here
@@JohnScherer When you connect lights in series, the current through all of them is the same but the total voltage drop in the circuit increases with the amount of lights connected. That would cause that some lights would light up less or the circuit wont work at all if the source voltage isn't equal or greater than that the voltage drop from the lights. What you describe happens if you connect the strips in parallel because of Kirchoff law. Each strip needs a certain amount of current to function but the voltage drop across all of them will be the same.
@@JaxDrive bro bro relax.... these led on the strips are connected in parallel....so however you power them.. all the led will be across same potential...connecting those strips in series won't make it series
Thank you for your work and the great video. One thing I find visually not that pleasing: Could you make the separations a bit more tidy? Maybe a small cover or let the LED strips meet with a flat angle (do not have the color separation within a curve). Hope you can improve the designs and make them even more pleasing for the eye. I will follow your channel for more interesting stuff in the future.
Yes, four screws to change the batteries. I did look into mounting the batteries on the underside of the PCB (which you can still do if you wanted to do so) but this would add to the height of the base.
Yeah, it really did which is exactly why I thought best to warn others. Particular the battery holder legs which are made of thicker and more rigid wire. 🫤
Awesome! Very well done! Just so you know, your links in the description doesn't have the AA battery holder and your Etsy listing doesn't mention/show the potentiometer.
Hi, beautifull made. i also printed the pineapple and put white neon led stip, but after one week, it start to bend backside. look like Pla is not loving the mild heat genereated by led strip. any ways superb work
These look really cool and I've really only started to get into 3d printing, but a worry I thought of with this is won't they deform over time from exposure to heat of the LEDs? I haven't dealt with LED strips before, so If they don't get hot enough to do that, that's good to know.
Super job! I’ve already got some of those led strips for a sign project. But your dimmer solution is amazing! I was really impressed by your circuit on your web page. I think I’ll use it for my sign. Thank you so much for this helpful video. Best wishes julian
Do you have a BOM list for the electronic components? I'm trying to source them directly from a manufacturer to put on your board. The manufacturer needs the part numbers.
As always very detailed explanations! and something that is not usual in this kind of videos: except for the PCB, all the components are available in my country! (Argentina). Every time i see this type of videos there is something required that is difficult or impossible to get due to custom restrictions and fee costs. thanks!
Would it be possible to make a toned down version of this without the 555 timer which i assume is for the dimming? just a simple on/off function? a simple cercuit diagram for this would be great!
You could connect the USB power or AA batteries directly to the LED's via the switch (have the switch toggle between the two different positives). You may find that without the PWM dimming the battery power is diminished quicker than expected (depending on the amount of LEDs used in your design).
great idea. in the future, I will definitely order a few sets and make my own neon signs. only one thing bothers me. Can't I solder the strips together instead of running long wires?
Hello! Thank you for this project. I just made it and have an issue where when dimming the potentiometer, the sign blinks as well as dims. At full, it looks fine. Any suggestions?
I want to order some of your boards but am curious if they will work with a larger led design I want to make or will the components on the board limit the size of my design? I imagine that's where I would need to do the research and put larger diodes/capacitor and etc; if so would the board still work with the new higher rating components? Thanks for the great video. I'm excited to make something.
Hi, Great video, thank you! However I couldn't reach the PCBWay page to order PCBs direct? The link in the description here seems to reach an out-of-date 2022 promotion. Is ordering from PCBWay still possible or is it solely via the Etsy store now? Thanks
HI @@DIYMachines Quick thought; I appreciate I wouldn't use the USB connector (or batteries!) but could I adapt your PCB with a PCB-mounted barrel socket and power 12V LEDs instead of the 5V ones? Thanks,
I was just able to order these from PCBway using this link. Also, I was able to change the quantity from 5 to 10 and still get them for free, only paying shipping. So basically it came out to about $2 per pcb including shipping to the US. Note: I had to wait a few moments for someone to "approve" the order, but then the order went through. Thanks for this tutorial and I look forward to trying to make these with my kids.
Thank you very much for uploading this, very cool project to do custom signs. But come on, it's 2022 and there's unlimited possibilities for us makers, why would you choose USB Mini over an USB-C connection xD
I made the pineapple but the heat from the LED strip distorted the leaves. 😅 I used a 12V strip so maybe they get warmer than the 5V ones you used. The cactus looks awesome though!
I'm fairly certain that the 555 timer in the pineapple is what causes the light to flicker. At 14:02 as the camera pans across the table, you'll see all the other shapes have stable lights while the pineapple has a decided flicker.
I love the basics of this project. It would be cool to have different sections of lights turn on and off to simulate movement. Would that be possible without needing something like an Arduino?
Thanks. The current design would not be capable of this. I'm sure you could achieve it with 'dumb' components (think of a circuit design similar to old school blinking alarm lights: www.instructables.com/Three-Ways-to-Make-LED-Flasher-Circuit-With-Rate-C/)
That looks fun to do. Is there option to move batteries to the back of PCB, so they could be accessed without any need to unscrew entire board just to do replacement?
It's not impossible. You can absolutely do that if you prefer. I found I could create smaller gaps between colour changes when there was not four ends of wires protruding from the soldering pads to squeeze in along with the wire itself.
What do the capacitors, diodes and resistors do in this project? I make these lights all the time but just use a DC power supply. A USB would be much nicer to work with, but I'm not familiar with the process.
Don't forget to let me know what other designs you would like to see! Leave a comment below. 😄
I would real appreciate the proper labeles of this. Your work is amazing and worthy of praise. My work is actually in Neon Art. The above items created are LED Flex. Neon is a Nobel gas. Neon sign making is an art of 100 years of history. It is made with bending glass, attaching Electrodes, bombarding high voltage to vaporize the air and create a vacuum inside to insert your choice of Nobel Gas. Neon is more sustainable to the Earth (Except helium... But we put that in balloons.) LED Flex is more accessible but Neon is a skill trained through years of experience. The glow is definably different. Movies still commission Neon signs as it can't be properly faked. Many museum will have classes to make your own neon sign. Museums work hard to define Neon to the general population. World War 2 saw many laws restricting Neon that are still in use today. Cities are starting to recognize the history and significance of Neon. Only a handful of artists still bend. In the UK it is listed as an endangered craft and less the 100 people still bend and 1is training. I understand the significance of your work and admire it myself. Check out the work of Michelle Flechtner, Roxy Rose, The studio Brooklyn Bends, Museum of Neon Art Instagram and TikTok, UA-cam's How to make Neon by Eater, Jerry Rig Everything, and Neon Preservation for a video series of building up a shop. Neon is an amazing art and experience. Happy building or as Neon Artists say Happy Bending.
Would you consider a how to video on designing them? I'd like to make a custom design but wouldn't know where to start, my fusion skills are limited to say the least.
I'd love a tutorial for designing them!
ok this project is awesome i would like to see an updated version of this showing how to do a bigger version of this like a silhouette of Mega Man or to light up back side rim of an arcade cabinet
I'm not sure you can sell it, but a NASA worm logo would be awesome.
That animated table!!! Beautiful editing! And project!
Thank you.
I was intrigued the first time I watched this video. I decided that I could this, even though I have never soldered anything. After I received your kit, I printed the parts and started worrying about getting it to work. I ordered some 22 AWG wire, and a soldering iron and when I had everything, I took a long time to trim the lights and get the project rolling. This morning, I finished it. Works great and was not as hard to assemple as I thought. Printed everything on my Ender 3 v2, which came out perfect. Thank you for the ideas and the new experiences.
You are very welcome, thanks for sharing your success with me. Enjoy your own project born of your time and effort. 🙂
Thanks!
Thanks so much for the support 🙂
2mins & im loving how well done this tutorial is. Thank you. Subscribed.
Thanks for the sub!
I am retired high school engineering teacher and you did a great job on your video!! I will be using for my projects. Thanks for sharing. Again GREAT JOB!!
Awesome! Thank you!
I really like the fact you offert both batteries power as well as USB power in you built plus the option to dim the light
Thanks so much, originally they were only going to be USB but then friend need to put some on a shelf which made me realise the battery option would be great. :)
That's the diy I'd like to see more on UA-cam. I consider my level of electronics knowledge way higher by that moment, but I can imagine one who would enjoy following the assembly with ease! Great video
Thanks so much. 😊
Of all of Lewis's videos which have resulted in me making awesome projects, this one stands out primarily because Lewis is an absolute stud with a winter beard.
😆You get an award for the first beard comment - and a second one for it being utterly positive! 🤣
Dude! You're awesome! A real life God send! Thank you so much!!!
You're absolutely welcome! 😊 Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
I just found this channel and am amazed by the quality of content. Subscribed for sure!!
Thanks Brody. 😊
Just finished you’re shelf edge Clock project and started upgrading to a new desk. Guess I have to try this project now aswell. You’re such a legend! Thank you for your amazing diy ideas + instructions❤
I hope you enjoy the Shelf Edge Clock, that project is still one of my favourites. 😊 Thanks for the kind words. :)
Really well edited video. Love the effects!
Thank you very much! It's been a tough day and your comment helped turn it around a bit. :)
Great video, this looks like a fun project to do with the kids. Excellent video editing also, very creative!
Thank you so much!
For a cleaner look: 1) print only the sides frontside down, 2) leave the print on the buildplate until room temp, 3) fill the gap with liquid matte acrylic medium (or translucent paint if you want it permanently colored), 4) run the heatbed at normal temp to dry the paint, 5) remove the print very carefully so that the paint lifts off with it. Now you have a perfect frontside without any gaps between the the frame and the lit area.
Just use a RGB led strip and an ESP32 would be the over engineered approach from the electronics side
Finally a channel that explains the electronics step by step! Thank you very much. Really amazing project. I would love to find a good project to make a diy weather station, but the ones I’ve found on UA-cam, the guys building them talk too fast about what they’re doing so I get lost about the process. Would you like to make one?
You are welcome! Yes, a weather station is on my list of projects to create and document.
I would love it if you did a tutorial on designing custom pcb's like the one in this video.
I feel my PCB knowledge still needs to grow more before I would feel comfortable making such a video but thanks for the request - it's great to know what people would like to see.
Couple of questions:
1. Why did you use a 555 timer to PWM the LEDs rather than just use a pot to adjust the voltage supply? (I suppose you save some power when running on batteries)
2. Why do you need the 2 diodes - if you are just using the multistable mode of the 555, you don't need diodes
Pretty clear and your work is high quality, great job :D
Thank you, you're very welcome.
Hello, awesome project! I didn't see a link in the description, are the PCBs still available on PCBWay?
13:40. Insert screws by hand. A drill has a good chance of stripping out the threads.
Good tip, I did strip one out on a prototype.
Adblock and Sponcerblock are pretty awesome
I love this project. I would to replace the switch with a remote and make the top of the led green slow fade or flash.
amazing editing simple and cool , and the describing is very nice , nice work man
Thanks, I appreciate it. 🙂
Oh I'm definitely trying this out. The look awesome
Hope you enjoy
Awesome video.. Neat and clean.. To the point.
Thanks. 😊
Do you have any tricks for getting the strips in? The sides of my print keep separating from the back.
I have the same problem. My kit did not come with LED’s. The ones I bought from Amazon go in, but strain the frame to the point of breaking.
Mesmerizing, really good.
Incredible project!! Simple but very impressive! Awesome job!! 🔥🔥 I should learn to design my own PCBs too. It has a lot of advantages!
Thanks. Yes, if I rush a personal project together without a PCB now it all just seems so wild and temporary. The PCB's remove the rats nest of wires and hold things down securely. I encourage you to find the time. You won't regret it. 🙂
I loved this. Thank you for this wonderful tutorial!
Such high production and product value, awesome!
Much appreciated!
Amazing content and big big support to you for this amazing energy. Hi from Belgium ❤
GREAT WORK AND GREAT EXPLAINATION BROTHER KEEP IT UP
Thank you 😊
Great video and wonderful project, I just might try this one out :) Thanks for your contagious enthusiasm for building cool stuff! btw, your video editing as noticeably improved!
Thank you, you're very welcome and I'll keep striving to improve.🙂
Very cool, I will be placing an order soon. I will try to design a Christmas tree if I can find the time, haha maybe ill have it ready for next year.
Thank you.
I'l try and add one to the collection you can print on the Etsy shop for you. Check back in a couple of days. :)
you speak very well French 😉 !! Bravo for your videos. I like the idea and the design.
Merci 😆
These are awesome! Would you be willing to share the parameters of the 3D printed portions aka how wide and tall the channels are, etc?
Yes of course, the 'tracks' groove should be 5mm wide and 10mm deep. I made my walls 1mm wide and made the rear side of the tracks 3mm thick to help support the shape.
A very common technique for marking electrolytic capacitors on PCBs is to match the look of the capacitor, so to have the capacitor symbol as a circle with one half block white, potentially with a minus sign printed as a negative and to have the other side with just the outline. The way you did it with a tiny minus sign beside the circle may be hard to see and may not print right or may be knocked off.
Generally when making PCB silkscreens you want to make it as obvious and large as possible what orientation it goes.
The diode symbols are good though.
You should wear safety glasses when soldering, not just trimming the legs. Hot bits of flux or solder can spit off and go a pretty far and that definitely isn’t good for your eyes.
Hi Conor, thanks for all the good advice. I appreciate it. I will update the way I show capacitor polarity on future PCBs.
Hey Lewis! What would you do if you didn't want the dimmer / battery and just wanted to plug it into a UK socket?
super cool ! thanks for the video!
Glad you liked it!
Looks like an interesting project for some free days.
One comment from my side, would it be possible to mount the AA holder on the bottom side of the PCB that the batteries can be easy changed.? Maybe the housing needs then some more mm height, but no need to remove the 4 screws always for a battery change.
You are exactly right - you can mount them on the underside but the base would need to increase in height. I had to choose between a smaller base and easier access and opted for the smaller form factor - which is defiantly preferable for those who choose to power their via the USB port.
@@DIYMachines super cool build. For the next iteration I would also move the potentiometer and battery holder to the bottom and the Switch to the side (mounted from the bottom). This way you should be able to keep the same hight of the base. But regardless, really wanna build this :)
Parabens, pelo tutorial ,perfeito , e lindo o trabalho , gostaria de saber se esta placa PCB , é feito por vc, ou encontro no brasil , para enviar , via Amazon , não compensa, fica muito caro . Obrigado
Just curious, is there any reason you didn't connect the led strips to eachother and instead run separate wires to the board for each section? Really clean project btw, definitely planning on making some of these as gifts for people.
I was thinking the same. It’s not like the draw is any more or less going back through the board.
@@Holmesy89 Probably has to do with the fact that if you want to connect the strips together, the voltage needed to power them is greater because the voltage adds up. Instead, if you run wires for each segment you are connecting them in parallel, so you only need the rated voltage to make everything work. If the LED strips are powered via batteries or USB, you only have 5V so you shouldn't connect segments in series.
Voltage adds?? No, not so. If you connect 2,3,4, or any number of led strips together, the voltage required to drive them remains the same, 5v in this case. What changes is the current draw(amps). If one strip draws 250mA, would draw 500mA. If you connect longer strips with lots of leds, you can have voltage drop, but that won’t be a problem here
@@JohnScherer When you connect lights in series, the current through all of them is the same but the total voltage drop in the circuit increases with the amount of lights connected. That would cause that some lights would light up less or the circuit wont work at all if the source voltage isn't equal or greater than that the voltage drop from the lights. What you describe happens if you connect the strips in parallel because of Kirchoff law. Each strip needs a certain amount of current to function but the voltage drop across all of them will be the same.
@@JaxDrive bro bro relax.... these led on the strips are connected in parallel....so however you power them.. all the led will be across same potential...connecting those strips in series won't make it series
Tried making this and when i dim the neon lights it flickers.. Did the LED change where they can't be dimmed?
Trabalho muito bem feito e bonito, as explicações então...nota 1000.
obrigada
NIce :) I wish I had a 3D Printer. I hope that's is still on your list of videos.
It is! Though I want to make one when I have figured out how to offer something different to all the others. It's not a forgotten project.
@@DIYMachines , Thanks :) It also take me a lot of time to figure out the required money for the parts 😅
Thank you for your work and the great video. One thing I find visually not that pleasing: Could you make the separations a bit more tidy? Maybe a small cover or let the LED strips meet with a flat angle (do not have the color separation within a curve). Hope you can improve the designs and make them even more pleasing for the eye.
I will follow your channel for more interesting stuff in the future.
look like really fun project! only down side you have to disassemble the pcb from housing in order to change batteries :(
Yes, four screws to change the batteries. I did look into mounting the batteries on the underside of the PCB (which you can still do if you wanted to do so) but this would add to the height of the base.
The instant reply really showed them going straight for the eye lol
Yeah, it really did which is exactly why I thought best to warn others. Particular the battery holder legs which are made of thicker and more rigid wire. 🫤
Awesome! Very well done! Just so you know, your links in the description doesn't have the AA battery holder and your Etsy listing doesn't mention/show the potentiometer.
Thank you for letting me know. I'm adding them now. 🙂 For convenience: AA Battery PCB Mount (x4): geni.us/AABatteryPCBMount
@@DIYMachines Thanks for fixing!
Hi, beautifull made. i also printed the pineapple and put white neon led stip, but after one week, it start to bend backside. look like Pla is not loving the mild heat genereated by led strip. any ways superb work
Very good project! Your french is amazing btw :')
Merci beaucoup :)
Awesome project! Thank you!
Thanks and no problem.
Another excellent project! Thanks so much.
You are very welcome. 😊
These look really cool and I've really only started to get into 3d printing, but a worry I thought of with this is won't they deform over time from exposure to heat of the LEDs? I haven't dealt with LED strips before, so If they don't get hot enough to do that, that's good to know.
The LED's do not produce enough heat to deform the 3D printed shape which holds them. :)
@@DIYMachines Thanks!
This is increadible!
Thank you. 😊
Pretty cool! Why not wire the two led strips in series!
Thank you so much! I can't wait to give it a try!
These are really neat projects, thanks for putting all this together and making it available to the maker community
Super job! I’ve already got some of those led strips for a sign project. But your dimmer solution is amazing! I was really impressed by your circuit on your web page. I think I’ll use it for my sign. Thank you so much for this helpful video. Best wishes julian
Hi Julian, you're very welcome. I hope the circuit design helps your project.
Do you have a BOM list for the electronic components? I'm trying to source them directly from a manufacturer to put on your board. The manufacturer needs the part numbers.
Just amazing. I wish i have one.
Thanks. You could totally build one of your own. :)
@@DIYMachines i can't every part is very expensive in Turkey :(
@@berkc06 Oh that is a shame. Sorry to hear that. :/
These are beautiful ❤ I’d love to see some for Christmas and Halloween aswell :D
Great idea.
As always very detailed explanations! and something that is not usual in this kind of videos: except for the PCB, all the components are available in my country! (Argentina). Every time i see this type of videos there is something required that is difficult or impossible to get due to custom restrictions and fee costs. thanks!
Looking forward to try this out!
Excellent, I hope you enjoy it. 🙂
Would it be possible to make a toned down version of this without the 555 timer which i assume is for the dimming? just a simple on/off function? a simple cercuit diagram for this would be great!
You could connect the USB power or AA batteries directly to the LED's via the switch (have the switch toggle between the two different positives). You may find that without the PWM dimming the battery power is diminished quicker than expected (depending on the amount of LEDs used in your design).
🙌🔥💯 Wow. Impressive, you make strong point in this video dude! ☕
beautiful project. will this circuit work for 12V neon strips?
yeah i would like to know that as well
It will work best with 5v strips.
Very cool project! Would it be possible to reduce the size of the PCB?
I would love to have an airplane in the style of the rocket!
great idea. in the future, I will definitely order a few sets and make my own neon signs. only one thing bothers me. Can't I solder the strips together instead of running long wires?
Hey @DIYMachines, do you know why my neon sign flickering/blinking when I turn the knob ?
Just found your channel. You are making great content!
Thanks so much
Hello! Thank you for this project. I just made it and have an issue where when dimming the potentiometer, the sign blinks as well as dims. At full, it looks fine. Any suggestions?
You just got me a possible new obsession 😂
Gostaria de ver nomes , feito deste jeito , deve ficar muito bom.
I want to order some of your boards but am curious if they will work with a larger led design I want to make or will the components on the board limit the size of my design? I imagine that's where I would need to do the research and put larger diodes/capacitor and etc; if so would the board still work with the new higher rating components? Thanks for the great video. I'm excited to make something.
Dude I was looking something like this and you are the one made it.
That’s great. You’re welcome ☺️
hi Lweis. where do you get your Yellow neon from, or anyone else in the UK know. your affiliate linked supplier is not listing it.
Hi, Great video, thank you! However I couldn't reach the PCBWay page to order PCBs direct? The link in the description here seems to reach an out-of-date 2022 promotion. Is ordering from PCBWay still possible or is it solely via the Etsy store now? Thanks
Here you go: www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/Desktop_Neon_Effect_LED_Signs_9ae14310.html
I'll try to fix the link. Thank you for letting me know.
@@DIYMachines Fantastic, many thanks!
HI @@DIYMachines Quick thought; I appreciate I wouldn't use the USB connector (or batteries!) but could I adapt your PCB with a PCB-mounted barrel socket and power 12V LEDs instead of the 5V ones? Thanks,
I was just able to order these from PCBway using this link. Also, I was able to change the quantity from 5 to 10 and still get them for free, only paying shipping. So basically it came out to about $2 per pcb including shipping to the US. Note: I had to wait a few moments for someone to "approve" the order, but then the order went through. Thanks for this tutorial and I look forward to trying to make these with my kids.
That’s great and I just ordered my pcb. However I’m not finding the capacitors instructed over here, could I replace them?
What about a Chevy Bow Tie? I'd love to make something like this for my father in law... I bet he'd absolutely love it!
Thank you very much for uploading this, very cool project to do custom signs.
But come on, it's 2022 and there's unlimited possibilities for us makers, why would you choose USB Mini over an USB-C connection xD
I made the pineapple but the heat from the LED strip distorted the leaves. 😅 I used a 12V strip so maybe they get warmer than the 5V ones you used. The cactus looks awesome though!
Hey, really cool. I was just wondering though, what is the purpose of the 555 timer?
I'm fairly certain that the 555 timer in the pineapple is what causes the light to flicker. At 14:02 as the camera pans across the table, you'll see all the other shapes have stable lights while the pineapple has a decided flicker.
Thx for the nice project
👍
Your welcome. Thanks for the kind comment. 🙂
Hello I have a question, can I use a 10k potentiometer instead of the 50k potentiometer of your diagram?
Thanks
Please make a tutorial how to make own project! I have already 2d flat text but i don't know how to change it in Fusion 360
Great idea, I may follow this video up with how to draw out your own shape to fit onto of this project using Fusion 360.
@@DIYMachines Great, I can't wait! :)
I love the basics of this project. It would be cool to have different sections of lights turn on and off to simulate movement. Would that be possible without needing something like an Arduino?
Thanks. The current design would not be capable of this. I'm sure you could achieve it with 'dumb' components (think of a circuit design similar to old school blinking alarm lights: www.instructables.com/Three-Ways-to-Make-LED-Flasher-Circuit-With-Rate-C/)
You could integrate and ESP8266 (like a Wemos D1 mini) and just flash WLED onto it. Will allow you to control effects over WIFI.
What size lift will fit my 2001 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer trim edition with 235/15/R15's? I am thinking a 2 or 3 inch lift? Any thoughts?
Where can I (as a newbie) learn how the electronics/circuit in this project works?
Really cool project, will be giving it a try
Thank you.
That looks fun to do. Is there option to move batteries to the back of PCB, so they could be accessed without any need to unscrew entire board just to do replacement?
You can mount them on the underside but you would need to increase the height of the base to accommodate them.
@@DIYMachines cool, thank you :)
Hi, could I know what is the neon strip consumption ? I would like to use a dc converter instead. Thanks !
Do the kits ship to Canada?
Yes they do.
Why was it impossible to connect the LED strip into one, in series?
It's not impossible. You can absolutely do that if you prefer. I found I could create smaller gaps between colour changes when there was not four ends of wires protruding from the soldering pads to squeeze in along with the wire itself.
Bro do you know how many projects i already have? I have everything but the lights just laying around. Now i have to make a neon lamp
😅 Sorry. I'm the same, more projects I want to make than time to do so!. 🙂
Such a beautiful Job! I'm really impressed, thanks a lot for sharing, I'll try to make my own :P
You’re very welcome.
nice project man
I'm glad you like it
What do the capacitors, diodes and resistors do in this project? I make these lights all the time but just use a DC power supply. A USB would be much nicer to work with, but I'm not familiar with the process.