That's great to hear, and even more amazing that it's your childhood one that still can give you nostalgia. Honestly, that is to me the highest point of what nostalgia can be because it's all original. I hope you take care of your NES well. It's a gem , thank you so much for sharing.
Thanks for putting this up. I have not done much electronics repair in a long time but it's always nice to see folks dropping knowledge for anyone that might need it! Cheers!
Thanks so much for the comment! To me this is a very fun hobby just to make things work again. I like to take it as such and make it light and not serious. I just hope that it'll be able to help people out there from time to time. Thank you again so much for your comment
Be careful with the RF shields, they're sharp! On most of the RF modulators, you CAN replace all the caps without desoldering the RF box from the board, just go in through the 2200uF cap hole or bend the shield up. Replacing the voltage regulator with a new 2 amp 7805 is also a good idea. 8:02 you can just unsolder the leg of the chip from below and pull it up/out to reverse the mod later.
I can understand that with RF Shields. I have cut myself many times because of them. I keep a quick medical kit at my workbench just in case I need a bandage up. I see, I didn't know that thank you so much for that insight. When I repair others I will definitely have to take your method because at that point I will need to be in and out for time purposes. That sounds like a better idea then snipping the leg. And it sounds less invasive than the way I did it. Thank you for that as well I will have to try that method too. Thanks so much for adding to my toolbox with your comment. I really do appreciate it
Thank you very much! I really try to make things easy to take in. I just want to make sure things like this are documented and concise. In addition to not being too serious. Thank you so much for taking time to leave a comment. I really appreciate it
Those caps looks perfect. Nintendo used high quality capacitors when the built the NES. 9 times out of 10 re-capping is a waste of money on an NES. What problem were you trying to fix with the re-cap?
I wanted to recap the NES , that was what I decided since I was going to be in it anyways. I agree the caps looked fine. None of them were leaking. It was more of a calming thought to know new caps are installed on my NES. Thanks so much for the comment
Awesome video, and great editing (especially the montage at 8:48)! Genuinely surprised you don't have more views and subs. I think you're gonna go a long way. This is a much less niche subject than you might think! (Although, I would personally get rid of the "Subscribe!" reminders in the video. I think if people are genuinely interested, you don't need to remind them.)
Thank you for your comment, and your kind words. I hope to do my best and continue with more gaming related electronic repair. About the subscribe notification. I think you're right. I was thinking about it more after I created the video and trying to be as genuine as possible in the videos as well as making the knowledge easy to digest which I feel brings decent value to someone needing this information. At that point if the other person got something out of it a potential subscribe would happen. Again I appreciate your comment. And it's difficult to navigate when I see everybody else doing it. But you're kind of comment and way of bringing it up really made me think about it. Thanks again and I hope you have an awesome night
Oh I see, you're saying since it's not the original 72 pin connector because it's an aftermarket one? If so the local shop that I got it from had replace the 72 pin connector because of the blinking light issue. So it did have the original one but the same issue occurred and then it was fixed for a little bit and then it came back after some time the 72 pin connector was changed to an aftermarket one. Thank you so much for your comment
Usually on these consoles all of the problems stem from a poor connection with the cartridge. The cartridge connector is extremely unreliable due to the poor design of the console. I'm not sure that replacing the electrolytic capacitors and breaking the CIC was necessary.
I can definitely understand that. It may have not been needed to replace the capacitors but I just wanted to make sure that it would be able to have a long life. It's my usual go-to when I want to refurbish something all the way. Although even though those capacitors were old they definitely don't make them like they used to so I'm sure they would have lasted a lot longer than I anticipated. I do agree the cartridge connection is super poor and it's usually the highest thing that makes everything not work on the machine. I did see an open source fix for it. I might dabble in that later just to see what it's all about. I think they take an IDE ribbon cable and solder it to a new board that has two brand new connectors on them. I'm not sure what type of connectors but they look like The old long PCI connectors on computers like on sound cards and stuff. I do think you for your comment and next time I'll just jump to the cartridge connector. While this is gearing me up to really want to try this mod now lol. Thanks again
There's no doing it wrong if you get the results you want. I do like the sound of your method. If it's all right with you I would like to try that sometime. Thank you so much for letting me know. And thank you so much for your comment
I'm a EE and design circuits for guitar pedals..... the easiest way to desolder components is to just apply a big blob of solder to both legs and they will just fall out. Suck or braid any excess solder left behind and add ur new component. Use leaded solder always, and I suggest Kester 63/37 "no clean" solder. (I still clean up with 91% isopropyl)
Thanks for this ! It definitely sounds like the most efficient way possible. I will have to work this into my workflow. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. Thanks so much for the helpful comment
You are correct it is a solder sucker. But I've had a few ,like four or five, and the suction on this particular one is substantially stronger than the other ones I own. And I do have a desoldering gun as well. The thing is, is that the reason why I got a desoldering gun is because my handful of solder suckers that I did have or not working like this one. So at that point I decided to get a de-soldering gun. And I'm not saying go buy this thing I'm just saying this works better for me in my workflow than the other solder suckers and the desoldering gun for small jobs such as this one. Now it would be different if I had to desolder 40 holes or something like that for a big chip or a cartridge connector. That's what I would pull out my desoldering gun. But if it's an in and out job like this hands down I am happy with just that solder sucker
@@RetroRepairYT Thanks for the in depth answer! I’ve got a few odd and end tools but I’m still working up the nerve to try repair. I’ve only soldered once and it was just shy of a disaster. You sure do make it look easy though.
Not a problem, thank you so much for the compliment. Please understand it took me a long time to get to where I was confident enough to start repairing. I would break a lot of things. Meaning things would not turn back on. But I have a saying for that, I call it 'tuition' . It's not only the price it cost for the item that has broken. It's also the pain of not repairing something you wanted to but to analyze and understand why it didn't work out the way you wanted it to. So the tuition isn't a failure it's knowledge to take to your next item you want to repair. Again once you do it enough you'll start winning the way you want to
Wish it were so easy. Changed my caps and lost power. Can't figure it out. Polarity is good, nothing appears shorted together. Power button has continuity... argh
That does sound super frustrating. If you're having problems like that I suggest checking out the wiki in my description and going under the section ' Audio / Video / Powerbox Wiring Reference' It may help you if you need to run a bypass
@RetroRepairYT I give up. I basically learned that i needed flux. Kept ruining pads, it's too much for me. I ordered flux and everything should go smoother on future repair attempts.
I understand dude, yeah flux is a highly needed thing if you want to preserve pads. But you will see though that with flux the pads will attract like a magnet.
I have one of these from childhood. I haven't had to replace the caps. It just works.
That's great to hear, and even more amazing that it's your childhood one that still can give you nostalgia. Honestly, that is to me the highest point of what nostalgia can be because it's all original. I hope you take care of your NES well. It's a gem , thank you so much for sharing.
@@RetroRepairYT My husband is actually using it currently to play a game on Twitch.
That is amazing! I am overjoyed to hear that
Thanks for putting this up. I have not done much electronics repair in a long time but it's always nice to see folks dropping knowledge for anyone that might need it! Cheers!
Thanks so much for the comment! To me this is a very fun hobby just to make things work again. I like to take it as such and make it light and not serious. I just hope that it'll be able to help people out there from time to time. Thank you again so much for your comment
Be careful with the RF shields, they're sharp!
On most of the RF modulators, you CAN replace all the caps without desoldering the RF box from the board, just go in through the 2200uF cap hole or bend the shield up. Replacing the voltage regulator with a new 2 amp 7805 is also a good idea.
8:02 you can just unsolder the leg of the chip from below and pull it up/out to reverse the mod later.
I can understand that with RF Shields. I have cut myself many times because of them. I keep a quick medical kit at my workbench just in case I need a bandage up.
I see, I didn't know that thank you so much for that insight. When I repair others I will definitely have to take your method because at that point I will need to be in and out for time purposes.
That sounds like a better idea then snipping the leg. And it sounds less invasive than the way I did it. Thank you for that as well I will have to try that method too.
Thanks so much for adding to my toolbox with your comment. I really do appreciate it
Nice I got a old nes with this can bring to life thanks
No problem at all, I'm happy I could be of help. Thanks so much for your comment
Cool video. You’re very talented on electronics repair
Thank you very much! I really try to make things easy to take in. I just want to make sure things like this are documented and concise. In addition to not being too serious. Thank you so much for taking time to leave a comment. I really appreciate it
Those caps looks perfect. Nintendo used high quality capacitors when the built the NES. 9 times out of 10 re-capping is a waste of money on an NES. What problem were you trying to fix with the re-cap?
I wanted to recap the NES , that was what I decided since I was going to be in it anyways. I agree the caps looked fine. None of them were leaking. It was more of a calming thought to know new caps are installed on my NES. Thanks so much for the comment
Local game store here ;)
You are the best local game store
Awesome video, and great editing (especially the montage at 8:48)! Genuinely surprised you don't have more views and subs. I think you're gonna go a long way. This is a much less niche subject than you might think!
(Although, I would personally get rid of the "Subscribe!" reminders in the video. I think if people are genuinely interested, you don't need to remind them.)
Thank you for your comment, and your kind words. I hope to do my best and continue with more gaming related electronic repair.
About the subscribe notification. I think you're right. I was thinking about it more after I created the video and trying to be as genuine as possible in the videos as well as making the knowledge easy to digest which I feel brings decent value to someone needing this information. At that point if the other person got something out of it a potential subscribe would happen.
Again I appreciate your comment. And it's difficult to navigate when I see everybody else doing it. But you're kind of comment and way of bringing it up really made me think about it. Thanks again and I hope you have an awesome night
Very good...👍
Thanks so much 😊
The blinking might have been from the pin connector or the cart since it’s not an authentic Nintendo
Oh I see, you're saying since it's not the original 72 pin connector because it's an aftermarket one? If so the local shop that I got it from had replace the 72 pin connector because of the blinking light issue. So it did have the original one but the same issue occurred and then it was fixed for a little bit and then it came back after some time the 72 pin connector was changed to an aftermarket one. Thank you so much for your comment
Cutting Pin 4 of the 10NES is what every owner should do. The toploader NES version doesn't even have it.
Usually on these consoles all of the problems stem from a poor connection with the cartridge. The cartridge connector is extremely unreliable due to the poor design of the console. I'm not sure that replacing the electrolytic capacitors and breaking the CIC was necessary.
I can definitely understand that. It may have not been needed to replace the capacitors but I just wanted to make sure that it would be able to have a long life. It's my usual go-to when I want to refurbish something all the way. Although even though those capacitors were old they definitely don't make them like they used to so I'm sure they would have lasted a lot longer than I anticipated.
I do agree the cartridge connection is super poor and it's usually the highest thing that makes everything not work on the machine. I did see an open source fix for it. I might dabble in that later just to see what it's all about. I think they take an IDE ribbon cable and solder it to a new board that has two brand new connectors on them. I'm not sure what type of connectors but they look like The old long PCI connectors on computers like on sound cards and stuff.
I do think you for your comment and next time I'll just jump to the cartridge connector. While this is gearing me up to really want to try this mod now lol. Thanks again
Maybe I am doing it wrong but instead of the solder sucker I loosen the braid for "bigger" pools of solder.
There's no doing it wrong if you get the results you want. I do like the sound of your method. If it's all right with you I would like to try that sometime. Thank you so much for letting me know. And thank you so much for your comment
I'm a EE and design circuits for guitar pedals..... the easiest way to desolder components is to just apply a big blob of solder to both legs and they will just fall out. Suck or braid any excess solder left behind and add ur new component. Use leaded solder always, and I suggest Kester 63/37 "no clean" solder. (I still clean up with 91% isopropyl)
Thanks for this ! It definitely sounds like the most efficient way possible. I will have to work this into my workflow. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. Thanks so much for the helpful comment
So is the blue device just a solder sucker?
You are correct it is a solder sucker. But I've had a few ,like four or five, and the suction on this particular one is substantially stronger than the other ones I own.
And I do have a desoldering gun as well. The thing is, is that the reason why I got a desoldering gun is because my handful of solder suckers that I did have or not working like this one. So at that point I decided to get a de-soldering gun. And I'm not saying go buy this thing I'm just saying this works better for me in my workflow than the other solder suckers and the desoldering gun for small jobs such as this one.
Now it would be different if I had to desolder 40 holes or something like that for a big chip or a cartridge connector. That's what I would pull out my desoldering gun. But if it's an in and out job like this hands down I am happy with just that solder sucker
Still, you did a bunch of capacitors all at once. In that case I still think I'd reach for the Hot Moo.
I can very much see your point
@@RetroRepairYT Thanks for the in depth answer! I’ve got a few odd and end tools but I’m still working up the nerve to try repair. I’ve only soldered once and it was just shy of a disaster. You sure do make it look easy though.
Not a problem, thank you so much for the compliment. Please understand it took me a long time to get to where I was confident enough to start repairing. I would break a lot of things. Meaning things would not turn back on. But I have a saying for that, I call it 'tuition' . It's not only the price it cost for the item that has broken. It's also the pain of not repairing something you wanted to but to analyze and understand why it didn't work out the way you wanted it to.
So the tuition isn't a failure it's knowledge to take to your next item you want to repair. Again once you do it enough you'll start winning the way you want to
Wish it were so easy. Changed my caps and lost power. Can't figure it out. Polarity is good, nothing appears shorted together. Power button has continuity... argh
That does sound super frustrating. If you're having problems like that I suggest checking out the wiki in my description and going under the section ' Audio / Video / Powerbox Wiring Reference'
It may help you if you need to run a bypass
@RetroRepairYT I give up. I basically learned that i needed flux. Kept ruining pads, it's too much for me. I ordered flux and everything should go smoother on future repair attempts.
I understand dude, yeah flux is a highly needed thing if you want to preserve pads. But you will see though that with flux the pads will attract like a magnet.
Shootz what do ya mean?@@RetroRepairYT