Thanks, I just bought a 1971 Triumph 650 Tiger and your video was very helpful. Although I think I may have to buy a new carburetor becaue the throttle won't even 'move. The bike sat in a shed for 25 years and I'm trying to restore it. It only has 16,014 miles on it.
The 'O' ring is not so much to seal but to prevent it unscrewing itself, it gives it some resistance. Use carb cleaner not brake cleaner, carb cleaner will clear the gum and varnish better. Turning the pilot screw out actually weakens the mixture, turning the pilot screw in richens the mixture, this screw is an air screw, not a fuel delivery screw, it effects air supply to the pilot system. The atmospheric pilot system channel starting at the mouth of the carb is built into the body of the carb and has a notorious 90 degree bend that blocks up, it's tricky to clean but a 10 guage guitar string is ideal coupled with carb cleaner back and forth, also make sure carb cleaner comes out of the atomiser hole in the floor of the venturi. doing whats done here may not see the full benefits here unless this blockage is cleared, you may get past the "well on its way to idling" stage if this is cleared, plus worth mentioning, make sure no air leaks have developed between the carb and head, any leak here will cause the problems you have 👍🏼🇬🇧
@@HackaweekTV thank you for not being an @rse about it, my intention was to maybe clarify some things for the other guys, thank you again, love your channel 👍🏼🇬🇧
Excellent video! My buddy just bought one and we're going to have to go through the carburetor. This video is really going to help. Hey, I always wondered what the technical term for that grime in the carb bowl was called. "YUCK"! Wow, I always seemed to use other terms to describe it. And the mess in the jets is called "CRUD"! I'm learning. BTW, just in case I still have problems after performing this repair, what is the term you use when you go through all this and the bike still runs bad?
Excellent video thank you ! I have a 71 650 Tiger the same colour and running erratically at low speeds , this has given me the confidence to tackle a carburetor clean :o) btw have you done a video on setting up the timing with points ? .
Wow great video , Say my dad told me hey used to have problems with the old Amel carbs was it just the ideal part of it was the issue ? or was there others ? Thanks for this video it was awesome
Anyone that wants to own a vintage bike should learn the basics of carb cleaning and rebuilding. It's not that hard, especially with a single carb Amal like this bike has. I learned on a 75 Honda CB750 which has a rack of 4 carbs. (Hackaweeks CB750 series was a big help.) When I picked up my 64 Triumph TR6 last year is was so much easier to deal with that single carb.
It just does that. What you're doing is allowing the float to sink thus opening the valve that lets gas in. You are basically flooding the carb so it gets more fuel to help it start. It will overflow through the tickler at which point you let it go. IF it does it all the time, the float level is set to high.
It's a shame I couldn't here the sound of the engine running, due to the music. Arn't they just beautiful bikes. I have a 1978 750 Tiger. The idle speed is jumping around at 1500 to 2000 rpm.
Sounds like you may have an air leak. My t140 idle speed crept up even with the throttle stop screws backed right off. In the end the only solution was new bodies and slides, as the originals were so badly worn and distorted that they were allowing too much air to bypass them. Hopefully yours will just be a leak on the manifold joint.
Shame you didn't use the correct Whitworth wrenches and everything got rounded off. Or new gaskets or didn't clean the idle passage correctly so the "carb cleaner" actually shot down vertically from the carb body so the bike would actually idle at the end., or replaced the worn slide needle that was very obvious or the needle jet that should be replaced as they wear pretty rapidly. It's a '71 BTW, not a '72. I have never seen or heard of anyone adjusting the points that way. I suppose we will get to the timing later.
Agree with other parts of your comment. Small wire to clean idle passage, replace parts. He was just getting it going though. Not all tools and using everything over again. Seemed like a favor.
What you call the idle mixture screw is actually the throttle stop. The pilot jet is to the right, this controls the tickover mixture. What you call the air correction jet is called the jet needle, on a British Amal, anyway. Ok, lets watch as bit more...
Brilliant tutorial for a novice 'hacker' like me. Nicely delivered. Easy to follow THANKS!!!
Great video. Well spoken, good sound and very clear and concise explanation. A big big help on setting up this bike. Thanks.
Thanks a bunch, I just bought a 1971 Bonneville and it's been sitting for awhile so I'll be doing a carb clean and this is just what I needed to see!
Thanks, I just bought a 1971 Triumph 650 Tiger and your video was very helpful. Although I think I may have to buy a new carburetor becaue the throttle won't even 'move. The bike sat in a shed for 25 years and I'm trying to restore it. It only has 16,014 miles on it.
The 'O' ring is not so much to seal but to prevent it unscrewing itself, it gives it some resistance.
Use carb cleaner not brake cleaner, carb cleaner will clear the gum and varnish better.
Turning the pilot screw out actually weakens the mixture, turning the pilot screw in richens the mixture, this screw is an air screw, not a fuel delivery screw, it effects air supply to the pilot system.
The atmospheric pilot system channel starting at the mouth of the carb is built into the body of the carb and has a notorious 90 degree bend that blocks up, it's tricky to clean but a 10 guage guitar string is ideal coupled with carb cleaner back and forth, also make sure carb cleaner comes out of the atomiser hole in the floor of the venturi. doing whats done here may not see the full benefits here unless this blockage is cleared, you may get past the "well on its way to idling" stage if this is cleared, plus worth mentioning, make sure no air leaks have developed between the carb and head, any leak here will cause the problems you have 👍🏼🇬🇧
Some great advice and correction there. I learned something from YOU and that's always welcome. Thanks for the tips!
@@HackaweekTV thank you for not being an @rse about it, my intention was to maybe clarify some things for the other guys, thank you again, love your channel 👍🏼🇬🇧
10 years later.. thx!...
Thanks mate, between you and Lunmad my T100 carbs should be all good!
Great video. I have exactly the same bike & issue 👍🏻
Excellent video! My buddy just bought one and we're going to have to go through the carburetor. This video is really going to help. Hey, I always wondered what the technical term for that grime in the carb bowl was called. "YUCK"! Wow, I always seemed to use other terms to describe it. And the mess in the jets is called "CRUD"! I'm learning. BTW, just in case I still have problems after performing this repair, what is the term you use when you go through all this and the bike still runs bad?
Great, informative vid! I learned a lot... thank you very much!
Excellent video thank you ! I have a 71 650 Tiger the same colour and running erratically at low speeds , this has given me the confidence to tackle a carburetor clean :o) btw have you done a video on setting up the timing with points ? .
Wow great video , Say my dad told me hey used to have problems with the old Amel carbs was it just the ideal part of it was the issue ? or was there others ? Thanks for this video it was awesome
awsome job
Anyone that wants to own a vintage bike should learn the basics of carb cleaning and rebuilding. It's not that hard, especially with a single carb Amal like this bike has. I learned on a 75 Honda CB750 which has a rack of 4 carbs. (Hackaweeks CB750 series was a big help.) When I picked up my 64 Triumph TR6 last year is was so much easier to deal with that single carb.
thanks for this video. It was very helpful. :)
Very informative! Nice Porche back there.
Good information
lovely bike.
How do you know you've cleared both air and fuel idle circuit ? You haven't even mentioned the 0.0020"hole in the pilot jet ?
No idea. This was 11 years ago. Hey, it ran ok when I was done!
The throttle stop screw bears onto and moves the throttle slide, which is connected to the main jet needle, I grant you.
You rock!
Got it. Thanks!!
Nice one!
I have issues with gas coming out of tickler any much needed suggestions please. 930/23 tr6r
It just does that. What you're doing is allowing the float to sink thus opening the valve that lets gas in. You are basically flooding the carb so it gets more fuel to help it start. It will overflow through the tickler at which point you let it go.
IF it does it all the time, the float level is set to high.
Very normal, it’s in the manual.
I know your comment is a year old but it's not a harley, it's a triumph theres a difference.
What music is playing at the beginning?
Motorcycle, I love you by Moon Duo. freemusicarchive.org/music/Moon_Duo/Moon_Duo_-_Live__KEXP_2192010/MotorcycleILoveYou/
Thanks for the quick reply. You have great taste in music too it seems!
It's a shame I couldn't here the sound of the engine running, due to the music. Arn't they just beautiful bikes. I have a 1978 750 Tiger. The idle speed is jumping around at 1500 to 2000 rpm.
Sounds like you may have an air leak. My t140 idle speed crept up even with the throttle stop screws backed right off. In the end the only solution was new bodies and slides, as the originals were so badly worn and distorted that they were allowing too much air to bypass them. Hopefully yours will just be a leak on the manifold joint.
He didn't show cleaning out the cross drilling, make sure they are all free, take the carb off the bike to do this...
Shame you didn't use the correct Whitworth wrenches and everything got rounded off. Or new gaskets or didn't clean the idle passage correctly so the "carb cleaner" actually shot down vertically from the carb body so the bike would actually idle at the end., or replaced the worn slide needle that was very obvious or the needle jet that should be replaced as they wear pretty rapidly. It's a '71 BTW, not a '72. I have never seen or heard of anyone adjusting the points that way. I suppose we will get to the timing later.
How do YOU adjust the points? I thought he was spot on as far as the initial setting. See you at Brit Jam!! Yeah, love it.
Agree with other parts of your comment. Small wire to clean idle passage, replace parts. He was just getting it going though. Not all tools and using everything over again. Seemed like a favor.
At least you didn't beat him up as bad as David Dale!! lol. He did say keep on HACKING.
What you call the idle mixture screw is actually the throttle stop.
The pilot jet is to the right, this controls the tickover mixture.
What you call the air correction jet is called the jet needle, on a British Amal, anyway.
Ok, lets watch as bit more...
+David Dale Er, needle jet, sorry!
You can tell a fuel and air needle apart, the fuel one is sharp air one is blunt, you haven't a clue?
Yep, hack job of cleaning and fixing that poor Triumph. Sigh.........
Nice bike, interesting video... I like the Pommy bikes, they used the KISS principle.. Keep It Simple Stupid.
Crapspackle!!