Hubnut: Now with Added Sidekick Chicken. Sidekick Chicken will be delivering reviews and an exciting new feature for Hubnut - "Let's Look for That Fiddly Dropped Bit Under the Car!" with Chicken Cam
I can thoroughly recommend getting a large sheet of cardboard from somewhere (white-goods packaging?) to place on the floor under the engine bay of any vehicles you work on. It does make it a lot easier to find dropped items.
True dat. Daihatsu Charade´s have the exact same issue. Rough idle means clogged bypass channel. Some throttle cleaner down the intake may fix the issue in the short term ( known as HubNut Fix (C) ), in the long run remove throttle body, find bypass channel & clean :)
Ian, you may have to disconnect the battery for 10 mins to reset the ECU for the new ICV. Failing that, how's the throttle plate position? if it can't close fully, it could be a combination of both
ISTR you have to do the same with many VWs. Disconnect the battery for a while for the ECU to reset, then start the car and let it idle for a few minutes so it can esablish new baselines.
James A. Is right,the ECU has to be powered down(battery disconnected)The new ICV installed,connect the battery,start the car and let it run so the ICV can "relearn" and be in sync with the ECU.
@@robertwenzell9510 Yes indeed James A was spot on. The pre face lift Matiz is "a bear of little brain" but does have one and ECU capacitors need to drain out completely or risk heat damage when a component is changed. Apparently the single coil Matiz stresses caps more than the slightly later 3-coil one.
From the workshop service manual (very easy to find online): *Idle Air Control Valve Reset Procedure* Whenever the battery cable or the Engine Control Module (ECM) connector or the ECM fuse EF6 is disconnected or replaced, the following idle learn procedure must be performed: 1. Turn the ignition ON for 5 seconds. 2. Turn the ignition OFF for 10 seconds. 3. Turn the ignition ON for 5 seconds. 4. Start the engine in park/neutral. 5. Allow the engine to run until the engine coolant is above 85C (185F ). 6. Turn the A/C ON for 10 seconds, if equipped. 7. Turn the A/C OFF for 10 seconds, if equipped. 8. If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transaxle, apply the parking brake. While pressing thebrake pedal, place the transaxle in D (drive). 9. Turn the A/C ON for 10 seconds, if equipped. 10. Turn the A/C OFF for 10 seconds, if equipped. 11. Turn the ignition OFF. The idle learn procedure is complete
I like the addition of a chicken. life is better with chickens. I have 7 ex-batts and they know a lot about internal combustion engines. At least, thats what they told me, when I was trying to fix the lawnmower.
Ian, disconnect both battery terminals and hold them together for at least 10 seconds. That should reset the CPU and could solve the idling problems. It solved a problem I had with my Volvo C30 (which you are welcome to drive any time you are in the Yorkshire area).
You are awesome. I did the EXACT same process and ended up with the old ICV in.. just a quick thanks from an American living in Vietnam. Subscribed... My wife loves that you named her Myrtle by the way. :)
Good news people, yesterday my Baleno Estate had it's MOT in the Netherlands, I can drive another year, just had the battery not tight enough in it's casing. 20 years and still going strong. Happy about that. I envy HubNut but all those cars,. insurance, MOT would drive me crazy.
Great vid, Matiz looking good, My experience with Idle Air Control Valves is that cheap ones never work..usually needs OEM, does with the Vauxhalls anyway, Best wishes from us.
When a component is removed from the 'engine management system' and then replaced, the ECU has to learn to get it back to normal. When I replaced the throttle control valve on my Rover 620, there was high and low revving just like on your Matiz, until it learned to adjust to the ECU.
I bought a new icv for a Saxo VTR I had and it was worse afterwards so I had to put the original back! The Matiz looked good today at the festival today, best looking Matiz I’ve seen in years, how many owners bothered to polish them in years gone by?! Well done that man!
I had Idle control valve issues on a couple of different cars, they tend to clog up with carbon deposits. There isn't much to them really, just a plunger valve and spring type assembly, they get clogged up and stick, cleaning them with carb cleaner usually clears them, then I lubricate with oil. Make sure the plunger moves freely. Fitting a new one will require an ECU 'relearn' ie battery off to clear any KAM keep alive memory in the ECU, re connect battery. There is usually some procedure for the ECU to relearn the new valve, on cars I've had a full warm up is required, the Idle will hunt and sometimes cut out, this is normal and just the ECU resetting itself and learning the values of the new valve. After a full warm up the Idle should settle, take it for a long drive, anything up to 20-30 mins try and include some fast roads, slow moving, hills, downhill etc etc basically a variety of road speeds and conditions, the ECU should now have learnt the full parameters of the new valve. What happens with your old valve, the ECU compensates for any lack of parameters or faulty operation, so when you fit a new one, all the ECU settings will be out of whack! Having said that, the new valve may just be faulty?
I enjoyed seeing the "Chicken Checker/Supervisor" on the job; just glad he didn't eat the dropped screw; otherwise, you may have had to keep careful track of his "emissions"!
You would generally have to clear adaptions in the ECU when replacing an IAC valve. Otherwise the ecu will continue using learned values for the old valve, on the new one....
@@HubNut Ian clearing adaptions is done with scan tool, but from memory as mentioned above - disconnect the battery before swapping the ICV's will work.
I like how you English say chickin. Daewoo is a nice shape but not the colour I would personally pick. That three cylinder growl was a treat to the ears. I also enjoyed the Charade for that in a recent video.
Uneven running issues/misfires are so frustrating! Hope you figure it out. Maybe you should get one of those 2 wheel towing dollies so you can take two cars to events - one always having to be Betty as the tow car, of course. 👍🏻
Gave the video a full watch so I didn't jump the gun. As other's have said; disconnect the battery for a bit (hope you know your radio code!) and then the ECU will reset back to its closed loop maps and begin to learn again, where it will fiddle with the IACV until it finds a better baseline. When you were closer to the engine it did sound as if you have some sort of vaccum leak, it could very well be that, I'd give all them a look over for cracks and the likes, especially at sharp turns into manifolds and the likes. The other two components that can give you idle issues similar to this are a dirty or defective MAF sensor, or a defective coolant temperature sensor. I've seen cars where the coolant guage worked perfectly on the dashboard however the thing always thought it was cold, so would choke itself when trying to start a hot engine and cause starting and idling issues.
Hi Luke, I bought the '00 Matiz a few months ago, for about 175£. I got it checked, and replaced some key parts before driving from Croatia all the way to Aberdeen (nearly 3k km!)... It got fitted with new breaks, valve gasket seals, a faulty rear bearing, spark plugs, spark plug electrical tubes, etc. Unfortunately, a few weeks ago the car started auto-revving in neutral, either at continuously elevated rpm, or with ups and downs (similar to the video situation). I presume that, judging by the latter issue, it is a matter of a vacuum leak. More air, more rpm, less air less rpm- that's my logic. Furthermore upon inspection, I saw that the tubes and ducts, between the air filter and the engine had electrical tape, duct tape and I presume hide some cracks. I will fix or replace them, but is there a possibility that I mess up if I try to clean the ICV by myself? Also, the engine takes really long time to get to the ideal temperature- the dial always says it's cold when I'm on faster roads. Might the revving be linked to the cold engine? On a side note... None of the mechanics in the area want to mess with the car for some reason. It's papers are clean, it has insurance until June and basically runs very smooth- it's elemental mechanics! It does needs some bodywork and other... esthetic feats, new tires, headlamp polishing, it has a slightly wobbly steering wheel (column?), door seals leak rain somewhere, so I have to get that fixed (draining the booth in the winter will get annoying really fast!) and I guess I have an oil leak in the sump or at the crankshaft seals. Why won't anyone take it in? I know it will cost more than the car itself, but it grew in on me! Perfectly adapted for the city, it spends 4.8 L/100km, according to my mixed road calculations. And it went to the bloody Highlands where no Rovers dare! Cheers
Had the same idling fault on my cinquecento and it was the map sensor. A new one from fleabay lasted 3 weeks so I fitted a spare one from another parts car and all is well. Spare part is 24years old. They don't make things like they used to!
With my car poor idle was caused by 1 cilinder having lost compression, causing uneven running at idle. So you might want to check compression on all three cilinders. Also, air leaks can cause the weirdest problems. Remember that the idle control valve is just the ECU operating an auxiliary throttle pedal. It could also be a faulty connection between the ICV and ECU. Re-seating connectors sometimes rectifies the problem so that might be the reason putting the old one back in eased the problem... Anyway, work methodically, rule out every cause step by step (Says someone who has changed half the electronics of a car today and still can't figure out why the damn speedometer isn't working)
I recently had problems with my Xantia not wanting to idle properly. I swapped the throttle body and several sensors from a perfectly functioning parts car and measured the wiring loom to make sure that was okay. In the end it turned out that the chip controlling the ICV inside the ECU had given up the ghost. With another ECU it's now working fine.
I hope you got the chicken to sign a release allowing you to use her image (in all countries, including the Scandinavian). Just realised - the chicken has a speaking part. You'll need to include that in the release, along with permission to dub her voice.
Just thinking back to when I had a similar prob on my mk1 focus🧐 after changing ICV it turned out to be the speed sensor for the speedo…not sure if the matiz has a similar set up but basically the car thought it was travelling at speed when in fact it was stationary. As a consequence the revs would rise to 4500rpm as soon as the clutch was depressed.
tracing the cause of a wonky idle can be a bit frustrating. - search for vacuum leaks by spraying starter fluid around intake gaskets, injector seals where they stick in the manifold., around the axel of the throttle body, any vacume line connections. Do this with a running engine. if idle speed goes UP when you spray onto a specific location you just found a vacuum leak. - try to clean the throttle body and butterfly valve because gunk messes up the airflow to the engine, specially at idle.(carb cleaner works fine) - clean any appendages for the crank case ventilation. (carb cleaner works fine) If they are gunked up the crank case ventilation can mess with idle speed.
What does £751 get you? One water pump; A belt tensioner; A timing belt; Alternator belt; A hub bearing kit; A drive flange; 5 hours of labour; and a dent in the bank balance. (no cuddly toy.) Underfloor pipes didn't need changing. For your idle valve; try cleaning all the rev counting connections with contact cleaner. Whisky had a twitchy speedo needle when it was sat idle at home once. The speedo is electrically connected to the gearbox. The twitchy needle was coursed by a bad signal, and a quick spray fixed this. So now on, I clean all connecter as I work on them.
2:05 Seems to have regular small misfires hence the rocking. air leak could cause that as well as knackered/shorting plug leads. I cleaned the icv on my old Saxo VTR and it took a good few miles to re-learn the idle - until then it would stall unless I tickled the throttle a bit. I might be wrong but I believe you attempted to adjust the idle using the throttle stop in a previous video. That should be left alone as is set at factory-i feel it may be slightly too wide perhaps judging by how extended the idle valve was when you removed it. Idle should is handled by the ECU only.
If you haven't changed the ECT sensor I'd do that. It reports the temperature to the computer and if it's gone wrong you'll have surging idle or wrong idle speed. One of my cars had surging idle just as you experienced in the video and it cleared up with a new sensor.
Are you absolutely sure the ICV is the correct part? I went through this exact problem on a Nubira... I bought what looked like the same part for a Corsa and it did the same thing, eventually learned the correct setting and worked for a while, then went back to 2000 revs at idle. It could be reset by yanking the cable and reseating , but only for a few days. I eventually bought the exact correct part from Poland and the car worked correctly immediately, and was fine until I sold it.
At least you weren't being idle even if Myrtle wouldn't. Did the new one not have a retention device that should have been removed before fitting? Used to prevent it being damaged or emerging whilst in the box. Magnetise your screwdrivers, can be done by stroking in one direction with a strong magnet a good few times if an electro magnetiser is not available. Good hunting with her.
From the get go I knew … you were going to drop the first bolt, the torx driver wouldn’t cut it, and the fix wouldn’t work. Chortle … yes … very Hubnut 😁
Does it have a faulty ECU? A neighbour had a Rover which exhibited similar symptoms until he bought a replacement computer from a scrapyard. That cured the problem.
Hi Ian, in a previous video when you did an oil change didn't you adjust the throttle stop screw to set the idle? If so you need to set it back. As others have mentioned it take a while for the ecu to learn plus the mention of the Tps sensor is valid. ( this can be tested with a meter)
In other Matiz news, it has been brutally attacked by a chicken, apparently... Myrtle will take a while to learn her new parameters, and a few drive cycles, with the new idle control valve in place before everything settles down. That's pretty much always the case with computer-controlled vehicles when new electronic components are fitted. At least the idle control valve is only £10 for the Matiz, the new item that my Toyota requires is over £300... Ouch...
I have the exact same issue on my 2010 matiz Ian, atm I have an icv that it tolerates but I shall wait to see what happens when I replace the alternator for the 3rd time
Hey Ian off subject but what make, and where did you get that handy flexible multi tool as you call it ? Also don’t forget to test a Nissan elgrand e51 3.5
Dropping stuff you really shouldn’t drop...that’s MY trick. The more careful I try to be the more likely is that I drop that darned screw and can’t find it. Spend ages looking in screwbox for substitute. Wish I hadn’t started....
Hubnut with all the Hashtags #notmyprotons #notmytransit #notmysierras and now #notmychicken. Hope all works out will Myrtle and you have a great weekend.
According to Daewoo workshop manual from year 1999 Ian seems to skip many steps. Ecu has to be put in learn mode. Otherwise ecu just doesn't know how many steps the valve is inwards/outwards. This method is very similiar to PSA from the sam era. 10 year older american cars needed jumper wire to put them in learn mode. If valve is just replaced it doesn't know the current step difference between new and old. Main thing in this is to swap the valve when engine is cold as possible, not depress the accelerator and let it find the idle all the way to the fully warmed up. There sould be no any vacuum leaks and possible egr leaks. These do mess up idle a lot and learing idle when there is fault is no good. Idle Air Control Valve Reset Procedure Whenever the battery cable or the PCM/ECM connector or the PCM/ECM fuse is disconnected or replaced, the following idle learn procedure must be performed: 1. Turn the ignition ON for 5 seconds. 2. Turn the ignition OFF for 10 seconds. 3. Turn the ignition ON for 5 seconds. 4. Start the engine in park/neutral. 5. Allow the engine to run until the engine coolant is above 85 °C (185 °F). 6. Turn the A/C ON for 10 seconds, if equipped. 7. Turn the A/C OFF for 10 seconds, if equipped. 8. If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transaxle, apply the parking brake. While pressing the brake pedal, place the transaxle in D (drive). 9. Turn the A/C ON for 10 seconds, if equipped. 10. Turn the A/C OFF for 10 seconds, if equipped. 11. Turn the ignition OFF. The idle learn procedure is complete
I talked to Lloyd Vehicle Consulting LTD about you reviewing a Nexia and he hopes to see you at the festival of the unexceptional. Hopefully you get to review it on the road or even just drive around the place where it's held.
Did that. Cleared a lot of crud out of it with no tangible improvement. I cleaned the old idle control valve out too and that did make it a fair bit better. Still not right though.
Chicken Matiz, my favourite curry
Hubnut: Now with Added Sidekick Chicken.
Sidekick Chicken will be delivering reviews and an exciting new feature for Hubnut - "Let's Look for That Fiddly Dropped Bit Under the Car!" with Chicken Cam
Chicken due to get its own UA-cam channel showcasing the yard.
Samcrac is going to sue for trademark infringement.
Chicken clucking in the background definitely adds to the HubNuttery
Samcrac also has chickens on his property whilst fixing his co part cars.. 🐓
I can thoroughly recommend getting a large sheet of cardboard from somewhere (white-goods packaging?) to place on the floor under the engine bay of any vehicles you work on. It does make it a lot easier to find dropped items.
Totally agree, I use a cut off of piece of beige short pile carpet 6 x 4, comfy to lay upon but it's no longer beige, more of an oily brown :)
Only if the dropped item makes it to the floor...
@@Graham_Langley which it rarely does….of if it does it manages to keep going until it’s miles away…..
That just gives the dropped item extra bounce, firing itself off in a random direction.
In the idle valve housing there should be a small bypass channel and it sounds like it is completely clogged up. try and find it and clear it.
I came here to say this.
True dat. Daihatsu Charade´s have the exact same issue. Rough idle means clogged bypass channel. Some throttle cleaner down the intake may fix the issue in the short term ( known as HubNut Fix (C) ), in the long run remove throttle body, find bypass channel & clean :)
Ian, you may have to disconnect the battery for 10 mins to reset the ECU for the new ICV. Failing that, how's the throttle plate position? if it can't close fully, it could be a combination of both
ISTR you have to do the same with many VWs. Disconnect the battery for a while for the ECU to reset, then start the car and let it idle for a few minutes so it can esablish new baselines.
James A. Is right,the ECU has to be powered down(battery disconnected)The new ICV installed,connect the battery,start the car and let it run so the ICV can "relearn" and be in sync with the ECU.
@@robertwenzell9510 Yes indeed James A was spot on. The pre face lift Matiz is "a bear of little brain" but does have one and ECU capacitors need to drain out completely or risk heat damage when a component is changed.
Apparently the single coil Matiz stresses caps more than the slightly later 3-coil one.
From the workshop service manual (very easy to find online):
*Idle Air Control Valve Reset Procedure*
Whenever the battery cable or the Engine Control Module (ECM) connector or the ECM fuse EF6 is disconnected or replaced, the following idle learn procedure must be performed:
1. Turn the ignition ON for 5 seconds.
2. Turn the ignition OFF for 10 seconds.
3. Turn the ignition ON for 5 seconds.
4. Start the engine in park/neutral.
5. Allow the engine to run until the engine coolant is above 85C (185F ).
6. Turn the A/C ON for 10 seconds, if equipped.
7. Turn the A/C OFF for 10 seconds, if equipped.
8. If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transaxle, apply the parking brake. While pressing thebrake pedal, place the transaxle in D (drive).
9. Turn the A/C ON for 10 seconds, if equipped.
10. Turn the A/C OFF for 10 seconds, if equipped.
11. Turn the ignition OFF. The idle learn procedure is complete
I like the addition of a chicken. life is better with chickens. I have 7 ex-batts and they know a lot about internal combustion engines. At least, thats what they told me, when I was trying to fix the lawnmower.
3:36 - the chicken tells Hubnut that it’s not going to work!
Ian, disconnect both battery terminals and hold them together for at least 10 seconds. That should reset the CPU and could solve the idling problems. It solved a problem I had with my Volvo C30 (which you are welcome to drive any time you are in the Yorkshire area).
You are awesome. I did the EXACT same process and ended up with the old ICV in.. just a quick thanks from an American living in Vietnam. Subscribed... My wife loves that you named her Myrtle by the way. :)
Good news people, yesterday my Baleno Estate had it's MOT in the Netherlands, I can drive another year, just had the battery not tight enough in it's casing. 20 years and still going strong. Happy about that. I envy HubNut but all those cars,. insurance, MOT would drive me crazy.
We had to clean the carbon out of the idle control valve seat. Where the rubber grommet seat's best of luck
Great vid, Matiz looking good, My experience with Idle Air Control Valves is that cheap ones never work..usually needs OEM, does with the Vauxhalls anyway, Best wishes from us.
When a component is removed from the 'engine management system' and then replaced, the ECU has to learn to get it back to normal. When I replaced the throttle control valve on my Rover 620, there was high and low revving just like on your Matiz, until it learned to adjust to the ECU.
I bought a new icv for a Saxo VTR I had and it was worse afterwards so
I had to put the original back!
The Matiz looked good today at the festival today, best looking Matiz I’ve seen in years, how many owners bothered to polish them in years gone by?!
Well done that man!
I had Idle control valve issues on a couple of different cars, they tend to clog up with carbon deposits.
There isn't much to them really, just a plunger valve and spring type assembly, they get clogged up and stick, cleaning them with carb cleaner usually clears them, then I lubricate with oil. Make sure the plunger moves freely.
Fitting a new one will require an ECU 'relearn' ie battery off to clear any KAM keep alive memory in the ECU, re connect battery.
There is usually some procedure for the ECU to relearn the new valve, on cars I've had a full warm up is required, the Idle will hunt and sometimes cut out, this is normal and just the ECU resetting itself and learning the values of the new valve.
After a full warm up the Idle should settle, take it for a long drive, anything up to 20-30 mins try and include some fast roads, slow moving, hills, downhill etc etc basically a variety of road speeds and conditions, the ECU should now have learnt the full parameters of the new valve.
What happens with your old valve, the ECU compensates for any lack of parameters or faulty operation, so when you fit a new one, all the ECU settings will be out of whack!
Having said that, the new valve may just be faulty?
I thought the chicken was a really underdeveloped character in this vid, I would like to see more of her😀
I enjoyed seeing the "Chicken Checker/Supervisor" on the job; just glad he didn't eat the dropped screw; otherwise, you may have had to keep careful track of his "emissions"!
You would generally have to clear adaptions in the ECU when replacing an IAC valve. Otherwise the ecu will continue using learned values for the old valve, on the new one....
Ah. Disconnect the battery job?
@@HubNut Ian clearing adaptions is done with scan tool, but from memory as mentioned above - disconnect the battery before swapping the ICV's will work.
@@HubNut Well i imagine the management will be quite primitive on that. So that may do the job.
I like how you English say chickin.
Daewoo is a nice shape but not the colour I would personally pick.
That three cylinder growl was a treat to the ears. I also enjoyed the Charade for that in a recent video.
Hub nut at it's very best. This is why I love watching 👌
Uneven running issues/misfires are so frustrating! Hope you figure it out. Maybe you should get one of those 2 wheel towing dollies so you can take two cars to events - one always having to be Betty as the tow car, of course. 👍🏻
In this video a man changes something and then changes it back again. 👏🏻
Gave the video a full watch so I didn't jump the gun.
As other's have said; disconnect the battery for a bit (hope you know your radio code!) and then the ECU will reset back to its closed loop maps and begin to learn again, where it will fiddle with the IACV until it finds a better baseline.
When you were closer to the engine it did sound as if you have some sort of vaccum leak, it could very well be that, I'd give all them a look over for cracks and the likes, especially at sharp turns into manifolds and the likes.
The other two components that can give you idle issues similar to this are a dirty or defective MAF sensor, or a defective coolant temperature sensor. I've seen cars where the coolant guage worked perfectly on the dashboard however the thing always thought it was cold, so would choke itself when trying to start a hot engine and cause starting and idling issues.
I;d just change all the vacuum lines. They can't cost much.
Hi Luke,
I bought the '00 Matiz a few months ago, for about 175£. I got it checked, and replaced some key parts before driving from Croatia all the way to Aberdeen (nearly 3k km!)... It got fitted with new breaks, valve gasket seals, a faulty rear bearing, spark plugs, spark plug electrical tubes, etc.
Unfortunately, a few weeks ago the car started auto-revving in neutral, either at continuously elevated rpm, or with ups and downs (similar to the video situation). I presume that, judging by the latter issue, it is a matter of a vacuum leak. More air, more rpm, less air less rpm- that's my logic. Furthermore upon inspection, I saw that the tubes and ducts, between the air filter and the engine had electrical tape, duct tape and I presume hide some cracks. I will fix or replace them, but is there a possibility that I mess up if I try to clean the ICV by myself? Also, the engine takes really long time to get to the ideal temperature- the dial always says it's cold when I'm on faster roads. Might the revving be linked to the cold engine?
On a side note... None of the mechanics in the area want to mess with the car for some reason. It's papers are clean, it has insurance until June and basically runs very smooth- it's elemental mechanics! It does needs some bodywork and other... esthetic feats, new tires, headlamp polishing, it has a slightly wobbly steering wheel (column?), door seals leak rain somewhere, so I have to get that fixed (draining the booth in the winter will get annoying really fast!) and I guess I have an oil leak in the sump or at the crankshaft seals. Why won't anyone take it in? I know it will cost more than the car itself, but it grew in on me! Perfectly adapted for the city, it spends 4.8 L/100km, according to my mixed road calculations. And it went to the bloody Highlands where no Rovers dare!
Cheers
Had the same idling fault on my cinquecento and it was the map sensor. A new one from fleabay lasted 3 weeks so I fitted a spare one from another parts car and all is well. Spare part is 24years old. They don't make things like they used to!
With my car poor idle was caused by 1 cilinder having lost compression, causing uneven running at idle. So you might want to check compression on all three cilinders.
Also, air leaks can cause the weirdest problems. Remember that the idle control valve is just the ECU operating an auxiliary throttle pedal. It could also be a faulty connection between the ICV and ECU. Re-seating connectors sometimes rectifies the problem so that might be the reason putting the old one back in eased the problem...
Anyway, work methodically, rule out every cause step by step
(Says someone who has changed half the electronics of a car today and still can't figure out why the damn speedometer isn't working)
I had a similar idling issue with my 2000 Jeep Wrangler and it turned out to be a faulty throttle position sensor, best of luck finding the problem.
I recently had problems with my Xantia not wanting to idle properly. I swapped the throttle body and several sensors from a perfectly functioning parts car and measured the wiring loom to make sure that was okay. In the end it turned out that the chip controlling the ICV inside the ECU had given up the ghost. With another ECU it's now working fine.
I hope you got the chicken to sign a release allowing you to use her image (in all countries, including the Scandinavian).
Just realised - the chicken has a speaking part. You'll need to include that in the release, along with permission to dub her voice.
Just thinking back to when I had a similar prob on my mk1 focus🧐 after changing ICV it turned out to be the speed sensor for the speedo…not sure if the matiz has a similar set up but basically the car thought it was travelling at speed when in fact it was stationary. As a consequence the revs would rise to 4500rpm as soon as the clutch was depressed.
I went through all those shenanigans with my previous Xantia so this video was one big flashback 😃
I like the black wheels with the blue a set of nice black alloys would look really good
Good luck ,hope all the hub nuts are all OK
Have a nice weekend at the festival!
tracing the cause of a wonky idle can be a bit frustrating.
- search for vacuum leaks by spraying starter fluid around intake gaskets, injector seals where they stick in the manifold., around the axel of the throttle body, any vacume line connections. Do this with a running engine. if idle speed goes UP when you spray onto a specific location you just found a vacuum leak.
- try to clean the throttle body and butterfly valve because gunk messes up the airflow to the engine, specially at idle.(carb cleaner works fine)
- clean any appendages for the crank case ventilation. (carb cleaner works fine) If they are gunked up the crank case ventilation can mess with idle speed.
Had a mk1 swift gti thst had the same issue. Couldn’t get a replacement part so ended up blocking it off. Drove it like that for years
What does £751 get you? One water pump; A belt tensioner; A timing belt; Alternator belt; A hub bearing kit; A drive flange; 5 hours of labour; and a dent in the bank balance. (no cuddly toy.) Underfloor pipes didn't need changing.
For your idle valve; try cleaning all the rev counting connections with contact cleaner. Whisky had a twitchy speedo needle when it was sat idle at home once. The speedo is electrically connected to the gearbox. The twitchy needle was coursed by a bad signal, and a quick spray fixed this. So now on, I clean all connecter as I work on them.
You know you're in Wales (or Scotland) when it's perfectly normal to see a random chicken whilst working on your car 😅
Not My Sierras. I want that T-Shirt 😂
…with the chicken
Safe travels to the car festival Mr HubNut, a meeting with Mat from Furious Driving might make a good watch.
2:05 Seems to have regular small misfires hence the rocking. air leak could cause that as well as knackered/shorting plug leads. I cleaned the icv on my old Saxo VTR and it took a good few miles to re-learn the idle - until then it would stall unless I tickled the throttle a bit. I might be wrong but I believe you attempted to adjust the idle using the throttle stop in a previous video. That should be left alone as is set at factory-i feel it may be slightly too wide perhaps judging by how extended the idle valve was when you removed it. Idle should is handled by the ECU only.
"The old one seems a little problematic."
*Gets a new one out of a LUCAS box*
Oh no...
Exactly what I was thinking !
If you haven't changed the ECT sensor I'd do that. It reports the temperature to the computer and if it's gone wrong you'll have surging idle or wrong idle speed. One of my cars had surging idle just as you experienced in the video and it cleared up with a new sensor.
Loving the steelies 👌
Sometimes alloy wheels are too much
I did like the three spoke alloy wheels they fitted to these cars though
@@bentullett6068 hmmmm I'm not a fan but I know what you mean 👍
Spotted your problem. Lucas part.
lol I ant believe you did a shout out to aging wheels he is another one of my faves
I have had similar woes with non OEM kit, particularly with Ford EGR actuators. When you check the specs some aftermarket items are way out.
These are not my chickens is something I never thought I would hear you say!
If there was a rooster: #not my cock....I love chickens makes me smile seeing them living in grey nasty cities.
@@Pfirtzer I could see Ian coming out with that! 😂
We need a Hubnut and Ageing wheels collaboration video!
Great video. Hope you kept the receipt!
I've just realised where all of the rubbish from the unit has disappeared to in this video. Just look at the trailer next to Elly it's full.
Could be a job for Betty. No doubt she'd pull it
You could be correct. I didn't hear a #notmytrailerofjunk
Behind the barn, down on my knees, I thought I heard a chicken sneeze....! 😉😆
Are you absolutely sure the ICV is the correct part? I went through this exact problem on a Nubira... I bought what looked like the same part for a Corsa and it did the same thing, eventually learned the correct setting and worked for a while, then went back to 2000 revs at idle. It could be reset by yanking the cable and reseating , but only for a few days. I eventually bought the exact correct part from Poland and the car worked correctly immediately, and was fine until I sold it.
Aging wheels has sent his chickens to spy on the HubNut fleet!
Matiz is looking rather nice, As for the chicken id probably have made that my dinner. :D
I liked the commentary from the chicken.
At least you weren't being idle even if Myrtle wouldn't. Did the new one not have a retention device that should have been removed before fitting? Used to prevent it being damaged or emerging whilst in the box. Magnetise your screwdrivers, can be done by stroking in one direction with a strong magnet a good few times if an electro magnetiser is not available. Good hunting with her.
From the get go I knew … you were going to drop the first bolt, the torx driver wouldn’t cut it, and the fix wouldn’t work.
Chortle … yes … very Hubnut 😁
Does it have a faulty ECU? A neighbour had a Rover which exhibited similar symptoms until he bought a replacement computer from a scrapyard. That cured the problem.
Hi Ian, in a previous video when you did an oil change didn't you adjust the throttle stop screw to set the idle? If so you need to set it back. As others have mentioned it take a while for the ecu to learn plus the mention of the Tps sensor is valid. ( this can be tested with a meter)
Yes, I've wound the screw back out but it's still a little uneven on idle. Did almost 700 miles at the weekend though!
@@HubNut could be a vacuum leak if you spray brake cleaner around inlet manifold it can pin point it
In other Matiz news, it has been brutally attacked by a chicken, apparently...
Myrtle will take a while to learn her new parameters, and a few drive cycles, with the new idle control valve in place before everything settles down. That's pretty much always the case with computer-controlled vehicles when new electronic components are fitted. At least the idle control valve is only £10 for the Matiz, the new item that my Toyota requires is over £300... Ouch...
Is the collective name for Daewoos a "That'll be the" of Daewoos? Hope Myrtle has fun with her friends
Never in a million daewoos
I have the exact same issue on my 2010 matiz Ian, atm I have an icv that it tolerates but I shall wait to see what happens when I replace the alternator for the 3rd time
The Daewoo finds work for idle controllers
Hey Ian off subject but what make, and where did you get that handy flexible multi tool as you call it ? Also don’t forget to test a Nissan elgrand e51 3.5
It was sent to me. Has no markings on it.
Later this day at HubNut mansion. HubLets go like "Woooow, a pet chicken!" :)
Dropping stuff you really shouldn’t drop...that’s MY trick. The more careful I try to be the more likely is that I drop that darned screw and can’t find it. Spend ages looking in screwbox for substitute. Wish I hadn’t started....
On tonight's episode of Hubnut, Ian gets photobombed by a Chicken.
Ian,Furious Driving will also be at the festival in his Volvo 740 sedan.
Aging Wheels' Chickums/Spies!
Hubnut with all the Hashtags #notmyprotons #notmytransit #notmysierras and now #notmychicken. Hope all works out will Myrtle and you have a great weekend.
I live near brooklands might have to come say hi
According to Daewoo workshop manual from year 1999 Ian seems to skip many steps. Ecu has to be put in learn mode. Otherwise ecu just doesn't know how many steps the valve is inwards/outwards. This method is very similiar to PSA from the sam era. 10 year older american cars needed jumper wire to put them in learn mode. If valve is just replaced it doesn't know the current step difference between new and old. Main thing in this is to swap the valve when engine is cold as possible, not depress the accelerator and let it find the idle all the way to the fully warmed up. There sould be no any vacuum leaks and possible egr leaks. These do mess up idle a lot and learing idle when there is fault is no good.
Idle Air Control Valve Reset Procedure
Whenever the battery cable or the PCM/ECM connector or the PCM/ECM fuse is disconnected or replaced, the following idle learn procedure must be
performed:
1. Turn the ignition ON for 5 seconds.
2. Turn the ignition OFF for 10 seconds.
3. Turn the ignition ON for 5 seconds.
4. Start the engine in park/neutral.
5. Allow the engine to run until the engine coolant is above 85 °C (185 °F).
6. Turn the A/C ON for 10 seconds, if equipped.
7. Turn the A/C OFF for 10 seconds, if equipped.
8. If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transaxle, apply the parking brake. While pressing the brake pedal, place the transaxle in D (drive).
9. Turn the A/C ON for 10 seconds, if equipped.
10. Turn the A/C OFF for 10 seconds, if equipped.
11. Turn the ignition OFF. The idle learn procedure is complete
Cheers. I don't have a manual, so that sounds well worth a try.
I miss the matiz
Going to have a Daewoo Day out then? My mum used to give me little torx. I think that might have been slightly different though.
I talked to Lloyd Vehicle Consulting LTD about you reviewing a Nexia and he hopes to see you at the festival of the unexceptional. Hopefully you get to review it on the road or even just drive around the place where it's held.
Could you have a dirty or bad MAF Sensor? engines can throw a wobbly when that happens.
Chook Nut.....never live that down mate
I had a ticket for that event but the offer of a day's work (and attendant payment) won out.
I think the chicken likes Myrtle
Will there be a Cameo appearance by a Rooster when we get an update on the Matiz? 🐓
1:14 And those little talks, what were they saying? 😂🤣😂
Hi Ian another good video
A good squirty bottle with some water and soap helps to find any leaking hoses.
Might be an idea to clean the throttle body out
Did that. Cleared a lot of crud out of it with no tangible improvement. I cleaned the old idle control valve out too and that did make it a fair bit better. Still not right though.
Maf or ecu would be my guess
super car i like very mmuch.
Aaaaarrrgggghhhhh. LUCAS!!! Parts were delivered pre broken to save you the bother of fitting them. Also why do you keep calling screws bolts?
What may i ask was the final fix for this? I had the same luck replacing the old unit, but it "revves" sometimes. Annoying and inconvenient.
Still haven't solved it sadly.
Sounds like it needs a throttle body thorough clean up.
You know that the Falcon is completely unexceptional here in Straya 👍
It might be the pcv valve.
I thought it was Ms Hubnut off camera....
Myrtle is possibly the only Matiz left in this condition
any chance of doing something on the west side of the uk
Maybe DROPPING the seal was important, eh?
Throttle body base gasket i'd guess
"Seems a little problematic". Proceeds to take a valve out of a Lucas box... 😁
you need to get a Proton at some stage. :P