I remember my Great Grand Pappy talking about his downhill runs from 1910 on his Minion DHFs. He complained that back in his day they only had one width, one casing and one rubber compound.
WTB really do set the standard with labeling their tyres. Light/tough casing, fast/grippy compound. More brands need to stop trying so hard with crappy names and 'tech'.
I legit was hoping this would be a video about a new tech "hot patches" where we could start fixing slashed sidewalls on tubeless. I already fix them with a needle, fishing line and a special glue, but surely modern technology has a better way...
I was thinking the same thing - I'm not sure there is a better way than sewing a patch in and sealing with glue without literally autoclaving a new section of rubber in there (Which is what I was thinking when they used the term hot patch).
I already know all this but that just gave me the opportunity to notice small things like the entertaining editing and how Levy's hand gestures aren't so awkwardly forced like BikeRadar's
"The minion was developed as a downhill tire in the early 1900s" I do remember grandpapa riding his downhill penny farthing with the first generation minion dhf.
I'm a 4ever Tuber! I tried tubeless once & concluded the mess, hassle & overall notworthitness was, well...not worth it! After 25 yrs of riding I've never encountered the need to ditch tubes.
forget the marketing crap about weight savings and lower pressures. Why you should go tubeless Trail feel, better feel for what the tire is doing. Imo this way more important than anything else.
🤣 I still have tubes in my 3 week old enduro. Moving up from an old 26" hardtail there are several new systems to learn and I wanted to hold off on adding one more part of the bike to be a variable in the beginning. I plan to switch over once I've shaken the rest of the bike down and feel a little more comfortable with the new hydraulic brakes and air suspension. These videos are awesome. Thank you for sharing this important info
@@YhigmaWhat are you riding? Not in the least concerned with flatting right now. 2.6 magic mary supergravities are doing just fine keeping me off of the rim. Yup, you can run them lower on tubeless, but them you have to buy a crush core for riding where I live. So you have to scoop sealant, valves, a new patch kit, crush core and THEN still have to carry a tube. If you get a real flat in your $100+ tubeless tire (magic mary's cost) you have to replace it instead of a $3 tube or slapping on a $.50 patch. I'll make the switch when I feel like I'm being hindered by the tech, not because someone else says so. I'd rather have a little more weight and a little less responsiveness to know that the biggest hit my tire is likely to take is a $3 tube. If I were a bike company I would definitely be trying to sell sealant, valves, and tires more than tubes. Especially considering that sealant is a consumable.Every part of that system has to be replaced over time and every part is 10x the price of a tube. I don't deny there there are benefits of running tubeless, but for me they don't currently outweigh the drawbacks yet. What do you ride, and why is tubeless better for you?
I ride tubes and recently had my 1st flat in ~900kms of riding and it was only about 20 meters from the end of the ride anyway... Maybe I don't ride hard enough :)
@@mountainsteward7776 I run Double Down casing w/ cushcore in the back. EXO+ in the front. I was just going through rear wheels too fast and I'd pinch flat tubes in the chunk
I am still running tubes but only because I haven't managed to kill the tube that came stock 😆 I've gone through a whole ass tire without any punctures or flats, once it does die I'm definitely going tubeless though!
Tubed rider checking in. Tyres got super expensive and running tubes on non tubeless tyres is so much easier. Plus on a trail, replacing a tube is a 2 minute fix to get you back up and running.
Last night having a headache thinking about mountain biking never thought that it's so complicated, type of bikes, geometry, forks travel and stanchions, rims widths omg. ..everything about it must be precise & accurate in order to get best riding, 12 years in skateboarding scene get a fresh new board for few hundred dollars and hit the streets, done!
It has been a longstanding controversy, and Maxxis reps have both denied the Front/Rear thing and verified it. So...who really knows? Last I heard Maxxis was officially saying Front and Rear, but 5 years ago it was different.
Hey, I still ride tubes on all my bikes😂. I’ve tried tubeless but the tire always seemed to burp in corners and on landings so I never made the switch.
Depends on how you ride, tire and wheel set up, etc. I’ve been on nothing but tubeless for many years doing gnarly jumps, drops, etc and have only burped a couple of times.
My dad still used tubes because when he tried to convert to tubeless he didn't use tubeless rim tape, he instead used the tube rim strip, and unsurprisingly, it didn't seal.
Dear Mike Levy, My name is Dan Sotelo and I think your video explaining modern MTB tire Techǹology is very good. I don't often commeǹt on UA-cam tutorial videos cause most are misinformed and pretty bad. But you are the exceptioǹ.... You see, back in the day (late 70s)' WTB and my self laid down the foundation to the Modern MTB tires. WTB created the first agresive pro MTB bike tire. I than took it a step further and createed the first front and rear specific tires which were directional, IE Paǹaracer Smoke & Dart. From there I went on to develop multi compound tire technology like the hard compound inner support knobs with soft outer compounds for grip. Even acroǹyms were given cause we had a lot of new tech going on and one of the first was 3D-Kǹobs. Being a little tough You did make a couple mistakes and failed to explain a very important tire logo/hot-patch dispatch feature that I can still remember getting kicked out from two major bike factories in Taiwan when I showed them the first front, rear & directional tires. They freaked out telling me there is no way they are going to train all their entire work staff how to install these crazy tires, and they politely asked me to leave. About a week later they contacted me to please come back so I can train their workers. They even paid and booked business class flight, as OEM orders poured in. The rest is history.
And environment thanks you! I'd argue there is no point running tubeless anywhere. Just overhyped tech, that is full of holes and empty promises, and even gotten worse with time - no longer saves weight as realistic sealant capacities growing and inserts proven you can not lower the pressures, will clog up tires and increase weight, will stiffen up the tire as it adds more layers, will prevent you from swapping tires from holiday to local area, will get unfixable puncture once or twice a year that will ruin your ride and clothes due to sealant covered insert on your neck, will protect you from two puncuter that you'd get with modern tires PER YEAR. Yeah I hate tubeless BS Ok ok, cactus rich areas, that's about it.
I also do on my freeride bike. I've got a continental der Baron 2.4 at about 30 psi and I hardly ever get a puncture. Not even at those nasty sharp metal-stairs I'm gaping like once a week ...
People who haven't tried tubeless always say "it's a mess and a hassle". Once you try tubeless you'll see that when you use your brain and do things properly there is no mess or hassle, and most of the horror stories that you read on the internet can be traced back to user error (aka people are dumb).
@@HollyBoni I have tried them, first when Mavic released the UST standard in the early to mid 2000s and most recently a couple of years back when it was supposedly a mature technology. It's a mess and a hassle and not only do punctures not seal if they occur on wet days (With Stans sealant most recently, can't remember what I used back in the day, but the new stuff wasn't significantly better), but punctures that have sealed on dry days open as the sealant dissolves out, so it has the effect of saving up the punctures for the wettest days. If your idea of biking is running the lowest possible pressure because you don't care about rolling drag, the bike has enough suspension to mask the squirmy cornering feel and smashing into rock gardens at full speed is a regular occurrence, then tubeless and tire inserts are definitely for you, but if your bike is a vehicle rather than a toy it gets very hard to justify. I've had one puncture so far this year and it was a Y shaped hole punched through the tire tread by a very sharp rock, that was way too big for sealant to have worked on. A really chunky tire plug might have closed it, though I suspect only temporarily. I replaced the tube on the trail (And didn't leave a puddle of sealant after me) and it's done about 80 km since. I'll patch the punctured tube next time I need another tube so the whole process costs cents to deal with and there's very little waste.
Dirt jumpers use tubes cuz often they are running really high pressures to get high roll speed (50-80psi is common) that would be unsafe on tubeless tires
I have a cheaper bike which does not have tubeless ready tire or rim, I would definitely like to own one that is ready, I am sure in this winter conditions would make a lot of difference. Good video, all the best.
If your not running 420tpi F+R your wet. Furthermore... 2.5 Maxxis assigai 3C maxx grip DH casing paired with a 2.5 DHR2 DHcasing (don’t get 3C max grip for rear if ur riding steep stuff as they’ll wear out much quicker) That is the most tired and trusted pair of tires you can chose if you need all out grip in all conditions when riding technical steep dh. For most riding however I use 2.5 mixxis dhf 3C maxx grip double down , paired with a 2.5 maxxis high roller 2 dh casing. I use the same tires for summer and winter riding
The tube will cut an additional 5 seconds off your Strava times. You could even go full enduro and strap an enduro specific banana to your frame and that’ll cut another 10 seconds off. _Enduro AF_
Still using tubes in a DHR and DHF (both downhill casing) on my 2011 Norco Sasquatch! Only because all available funds are going towards a 2021 Norco Sight though....
In fact 1 week ago I decided to change to tubeless front and rear but surprise surprice, my front tyre (VeeTire co Flow snap Tubeless ready ) apparently after 300 km of use (and aplenty life remaining for my tread ) the side wall had mor than 10 little holes that my sealant couldnt seal. So I wsa Forced to go back to tubes
I'm going to get a Mike Levy tattoo on my chest that also has his tattoos on him in the actual tattoo, so, it will be a tattoo of a tattoo, I'm pretty excited!
I am contemplating going back to tubes. I have quite a few bikes and to keep adding sealant to tires every year is getting to expensive for the amount I ride them.
I also thought that F and R denominations were front and rear, but it seems that: F doesn't mean front, but freeride. R doesn't stand for rear, but race.
The Minion was used during WWI. Mainly thanks to Theodore Roosevelt who signed the Minion Act of 1901. During the Spanish American War, Roosevelt suffered 4 pinch flats shredding down San Juan Hill. Teddy vowed never to pinch flat again. Years later during WWI, Allied forces made several successful hucks to flat into the German trenches which eventually turned the tide of the war. The Germans lost because they were overly committed to Der Kaiser's project. True story!
Im still using tubes because my rims are pretty budget friendly and its effort. got some tubes with sealant in them which helps with punctures but still gotta run them kinda hard
Let's not. It's front. You can google old Maxxis marketing material showing that the DHR was a tyre meant for the rear. Plus the old DHR does not look anything like a race tyre... It would be more useful for FR, it should stop better on the steeps. So by that logic, F = race, R = freeride.
I still use tubes inside my tires, because my bike is a basic-national brand 2011 hardtail. I get punctures almost every 5 times I go for a ride. Yeah I'm broke😪
Though I suppose that joke is kinda old since literally the entire west coast from California to Alaska (BC and Yukon included) can enjoy 420 time legally now.
LEVY! Can you bro science what tires have better grip halfway into their tread life? I've heard 3C is great for racing and for those who replace their tires weekly. But half way through the tread the medium compound is worn away and you're running on the hard base layer. Compared to the 2C where you've got that medium compound the whole way through & better grip than the 3C for the rest of its life. Any truth to this??
I successfully got my my 19mm internal, not-tubeless-compatible 26er MT-15 Shimano rims working with Maxxis Ikon 2.2 tubeless tyres. Just pre-stretch the tyre using a tube - put some gorilla tape over the spoke holes, use lots of sealant and an air compressor. Has been working great for 2 years!
Heavy DH tubes in DH tire with very low pressures. Why ? Well, ride an Ebike, have unbelievable traction with sub 20 psi and never have a flat in 5 years, no dented rims, no empty wallet, no matter where you ride, MIke.... Same experience with Tubeless?
So everyone uses 29"? No 27,5 anymore? Isn't it harder to manual and jump? I still can't decide, want to buy a FS but can't try it first because online sales.. Any thoughts? I'm 180cm (5.10).. Help xD
My great grandfather would often ramble about the revolutionary release of the DHF in the early 1900s.
I remember my Great Grand Pappy talking about his downhill runs from 1910 on his Minion DHFs. He complained that back in his day they only had one width, one casing and one rubber compound.
I heard that too!!!!
Yeah but that was back when they made things right. You could buy a tire 1 time and ride it for years! They just don't make 'em like they used to.
@@alecfotsch3533 Tires these days get way better traction tho, and have to sacrifice durability for a softer tire compound.
@@MineGames131 yeah I was being sarcastic. Tires today are clearly way better with way more choice than ever before.
WTB really do set the standard with labeling their tyres. Light/tough casing, fast/grippy compound. More brands need to stop trying so hard with crappy names and 'tech'.
If WTB registered them then others can’t
The terms are invented by the marketing department haha
They must have spent all their time on that and forgotten to use a rubber compound that could grip on anything even slightly damp.
agreed
The bike shop owner sounds really cool. Pinkbike should hire him one day
It is just mike with a fake mustache you know
This man sounds dumb no one should hire him
L
@@willkence7745 r/woosh
... as an unpaid intern.
The minion was developed as a downhill tire in the early 19hundreds
Me: imagining cylinder and suit guys shredding on wooden bikes
@@dystopiaisutopia i know that but there was a mistake in the vid which i refered to
@@rolfvomgolf3721 - it was a joke not mistake I suppose...
hahaha yeah on a penny farthing
Lmao
the renovo fat-ash: exists
me: hey ferb I know what we're going to do today
I legit was hoping this would be a video about a new tech "hot patches" where we could start fixing slashed sidewalls on tubeless. I already fix them with a needle, fishing line and a special glue, but surely modern technology has a better way...
I was thinking the same thing - I'm not sure there is a better way than sewing a patch in and sealing with glue without literally autoclaving a new section of rubber in there (Which is what I was thinking when they used the term hot patch).
Same. I was so ready to pack a lighter in my tool roll
I'm offended by the lack of rubber jokes in this video.
My great grandfather ran a killer mullet in the early 1900's, Maxxis 59's upfront and a 10 in the back.
I never knew mtb was around in the early 1900s
@@dystopiaisutopia just watch from 1:38 again and you’ll get it
@@dystopiaisutopia I got a nice quest for you! Go search for some sense of humor
@@dystopiaisutopia mike levy is always messing around what do you expect? Go watch GMBN
@@dystopiaisutopia this is also pinkbike, they like to joke around.
I know it's jokes, but there was actually a bicycle club in Durango in the 1880s. They definitely rode those off road.
I already know all this but that just gave me the opportunity to notice small things like the entertaining editing and how Levy's hand gestures aren't so awkwardly forced like BikeRadar's
I use tube in the rear cuz my rim is dented and doesnt hold the sealant anymore. Also i am broke and cant afford a new rim
Felt that
I used to do the same thing man
Yup.
Same
I use tube cause it's much better technology. And i'm not joking.
"The minion was developed as a downhill tire in the early 1900s" I do remember grandpapa riding his downhill penny farthing with the first generation minion dhf.
I’m still using tubes for enduro riding. In the past 2 years I’ve had only one puncture!
What pressures are you riding?
I'm a 4ever Tuber! I tried tubeless once & concluded the mess, hassle & overall notworthitness was, well...not worth it! After 25 yrs of riding I've never encountered the need to ditch tubes.
forget the marketing crap about weight savings and lower pressures.
Why you should go tubeless
Trail feel, better feel for what the tire is doing. Imo this way more important than anything else.
🤣 I still have tubes in my 3 week old enduro. Moving up from an old 26" hardtail there are several new systems to learn and I wanted to hold off on adding one more part of the bike to be a variable in the beginning. I plan to switch over once I've shaken the rest of the bike down and feel a little more comfortable with the new hydraulic brakes and air suspension. These videos are awesome. Thank you for sharing this important info
Sounds like more opportunities to get a puncture. It's cheap, get with it
@@YhigmaWhat are you riding? Not in the least concerned with flatting right now. 2.6 magic mary supergravities are doing just fine keeping me off of the rim. Yup, you can run them lower on tubeless, but them you have to buy a crush core for riding where I live. So you have to scoop sealant, valves, a new patch kit, crush core and THEN still have to carry a tube. If you get a real flat in your $100+ tubeless tire (magic mary's cost) you have to replace it instead of a $3 tube or slapping on a $.50 patch. I'll make the switch when I feel like I'm being hindered by the tech, not because someone else says so. I'd rather have a little more weight and a little less responsiveness to know that the biggest hit my tire is likely to take is a $3 tube. If I were a bike company I would definitely be trying to sell sealant, valves, and tires more than tubes. Especially considering that sealant is a consumable.Every part of that system has to be replaced over time and every part is 10x the price of a tube. I don't deny there there are benefits of running tubeless, but for me they don't currently outweigh the drawbacks yet.
What do you ride, and why is tubeless better for you?
I ride tubes and recently had my 1st flat in ~900kms of riding and it was only about 20 meters from the end of the ride anyway... Maybe I don't ride hard enough :)
@@mountainsteward7776 I run Double Down casing w/ cushcore in the back. EXO+ in the front. I was just going through rear wheels too fast and I'd pinch flat tubes in the chunk
@@Yhigma ahh gotcha! I haven't had that issue on this ride yet. Have a great day
As someone who sells maxxis tyres every day I should of known this already. 😬😆 Theres just so much to learn alright! So great video 👍
get an assegai and a dhr2 on any bike you own... dh, enduro trail xc or road... dont care, 10/10 best tire combo would recommend
Dhr2 is so heavy to pedal even on flowy trails but the grip is so good you prolly won't come back to anything below an Aggressor.
I use tubes . Iv got quite quick at changing them .
I am still running tubes but only because I haven't managed to kill the tube that came stock 😆 I've gone through a whole ass tire without any punctures or flats, once it does die I'm definitely going tubeless though!
I should add, I regularly run 15-20psi on my 2.6x29" tires
Maxxis should pay you to run this video on their website. Good explanation.
Tubed rider checking in. Tyres got super expensive and running tubes on non tubeless tyres is so much easier. Plus on a trail, replacing a tube is a 2 minute fix to get you back up and running.
Mike Sargeant you can fix a tubeless with a tube as well. Most times you just need a plug.
Does Paul Brodie know you're shouting him out lately? His YT channel is a soothing combination of awe and zen.
Last night having a headache thinking about mountain biking never thought that it's so complicated, type of bikes, geometry, forks travel and stanchions, rims widths omg. ..everything about it must be precise & accurate in order to get best riding, 12 years in skateboarding scene get a fresh new board for few hundred dollars and hit the streets, done!
It's really too bad when it spoils the sport.
I spent like an hour online yesterday shopping for a damn chain... longevity... watts... weight...
It’s because MTB companies are always making new standards
Thought the F and the R stood for Freeride and Race
It has been a longstanding controversy, and Maxxis reps have both denied the Front/Rear thing and verified it. So...who really knows? Last I heard Maxxis was officially saying Front and Rear, but 5 years ago it was different.
I thought the dhf means Downhill freeride and the dhr downhill race ?
Yes
downhill front and downhill rear
Hey, I still ride tubes on all my bikes😂. I’ve tried tubeless but the tire always seemed to burp in corners and on landings so I never made the switch.
tubeless rims and tires have gotten a lot better. Only burp I've ever had was snagging a tire catcher coming down a drop and going OTB
@@mrvwbug4423 A lot better since a year and a half ago?
Depends on how you ride, tire and wheel set up, etc.
I’ve been on nothing but tubeless for many years doing gnarly jumps, drops, etc and have only burped a couple of times.
Sounds like you had the tire pressure too low. Assuming you had tubeless rims and tires that were compatible. Some combinations aren’t great.
@@cvdavis 30 psi with a maxxis aggressor and DT EX1501 rim
Yup, still use tubes! Haven’t had a flat in two years. Running 17 to 20 psi. I guess I’m careful and have a horseshoe somewhere.
Depends on your trails, weight and riding style.
My dad still used tubes because when he tried to convert to tubeless he didn't use tubeless rim tape, he instead used the tube rim strip, and unsurprisingly, it didn't seal.
Dear Mike Levy, My name is Dan Sotelo and I think your video explaining modern MTB tire Techǹology is very good. I don't often commeǹt on UA-cam tutorial videos cause most are misinformed and pretty bad. But you are the exceptioǹ.... You see, back in the day (late 70s)' WTB and my self laid down the foundation to the Modern MTB tires. WTB created the first agresive pro MTB bike tire. I than took it a step further and createed the first front and rear specific tires which were directional, IE Paǹaracer Smoke & Dart. From there I went on to develop multi compound tire technology like the hard compound inner support knobs with soft outer compounds for grip. Even acroǹyms were given cause we had a lot of new tech going on and one of the first was 3D-Kǹobs. Being a little tough You did make a couple mistakes and failed to explain a very important tire logo/hot-patch dispatch feature that
I can still remember getting kicked out from two major bike factories in Taiwan when I showed them the first front, rear & directional tires. They freaked out telling me there is no way they are going to train all their entire work staff how to install these crazy tires, and they politely asked me to leave. About a week later they contacted me to please come back so I can train their workers. They even paid and booked business class flight, as OEM orders poured in. The rest is history.
Still riding tubes - flat risk is low here in MN, even at low pressures, and it's nice not to have to deal with sealant
Same, really no reason to run tubeless in MN, unless you want the lower unsprung weight. I've never had a flat in minnesota either, knock on wood.
And environment thanks you! I'd argue there is no point running tubeless anywhere. Just overhyped tech, that is full of holes and empty promises, and even gotten worse with time - no longer saves weight as realistic sealant capacities growing and inserts proven you can not lower the pressures, will clog up tires and increase weight, will stiffen up the tire as it adds more layers, will prevent you from swapping tires from holiday to local area, will get unfixable puncture once or twice a year that will ruin your ride and clothes due to sealant covered insert on your neck, will protect you from two puncuter that you'd get with modern tires PER YEAR. Yeah I hate tubeless BS
Ok ok, cactus rich areas, that's about it.
Had a few extra non-tubeless tires from the mid 90's Set them up tubeless and rode them til the tread was worn....no problems
i use tubes. I dont like to mess with sealant and seating the tire. and usually I dont get punctures
I also do on my freeride bike. I've got a continental der Baron 2.4 at about 30 psi and I hardly ever get a puncture. Not even at those nasty sharp metal-stairs I'm gaping like once a week ...
Tubeless
i'm a weight winnies and i run low pressure so it's a no brainer for me ahah, and i get free sealent, so it's cheaper than tubes
People who haven't tried tubeless always say "it's a mess and a hassle". Once you try tubeless you'll see that when you use your brain and do things properly there is no mess or hassle, and most of the horror stories that you read on the internet can be traced back to user error (aka people are dumb).
@@HollyBoni I have tried them, first when Mavic released the UST standard in the early to mid 2000s and most recently a couple of years back when it was supposedly a mature technology. It's a mess and a hassle and not only do punctures not seal if they occur on wet days (With Stans sealant most recently, can't remember what I used back in the day, but the new stuff wasn't significantly better), but punctures that have sealed on dry days open as the sealant dissolves out, so it has the effect of saving up the punctures for the wettest days.
If your idea of biking is running the lowest possible pressure because you don't care about rolling drag, the bike has enough suspension to mask the squirmy cornering feel and smashing into rock gardens at full speed is a regular occurrence, then tubeless and tire inserts are definitely for you, but if your bike is a vehicle rather than a toy it gets very hard to justify. I've had one puncture so far this year and it was a Y shaped hole punched through the tire tread by a very sharp rock, that was way too big for sealant to have worked on. A really chunky tire plug might have closed it, though I suspect only temporarily. I replaced the tube on the trail (And didn't leave a puddle of sealant after me) and it's done about 80 km since. I'll patch the punctured tube next time I need another tube so the whole process costs cents to deal with and there's very little waste.
Well I thought I knew everything about tires but after watching this I stand corrected.
Good vid!
Dirt jumpers use tubes cuz often they are running really high pressures to get high roll speed (50-80psi is common) that would be unsafe on tubeless tires
Great Explainer! Would love to see this for forks... I find those even more complicated...
I have a cheaper bike which does not have tubeless ready tire or rim, I would definitely like to own one that is ready, I am sure in this winter conditions would make a lot of difference. Good video, all the best.
If your not running 420tpi F+R your wet. Furthermore...
2.5 Maxxis assigai 3C maxx grip DH casing paired with a 2.5 DHR2 DHcasing (don’t get 3C max grip for rear if ur riding steep stuff as they’ll wear out much quicker) That is the most tired and trusted pair of tires you can chose if you need all out grip in all conditions when riding technical steep dh. For most riding however I use 2.5 mixxis dhf 3C maxx grip double down , paired with a 2.5 maxxis high roller 2 dh casing.
I use the same tires for summer and winter riding
I still use inner tubes- I strap one to my frame and it turns the bike into an enduro race machine so I can ride faster.
The tube will cut an additional 5 seconds off your Strava times. You could even go full enduro and strap an enduro specific banana to your frame and that’ll cut another 10 seconds off. _Enduro AF_
Dude tannis armor tube insert protection working great on the ebike. Bent the rim can’t go tubeless
hi I am using tubes because I change my tires very often.
I hope Maxxis paid you for this. Best description ever.
When he threw the shock:
Most people: Don't really notice or care.
Me: Cries myself to sleep for the next month.
It's a shitty shock anyway
Here I was thinking I need a soldering iron out on the trails to heat up some patches when I flat...
Thanks for the edutainment Levy! Also, still got tubes in my tires...
Very intriguing video
Interesting and allows you to know in detail what you are putting on your bike very helpful thank you for the video
Still using tubes in a DHR and DHF (both downhill casing) on my 2011 Norco Sasquatch! Only because all available funds are going towards a 2021 Norco Sight though....
I am still riding 2011 Spec Camber Expert 26" Agressors --tubed!!
THANK YOU!!!!!!! I HAVE BEEN CONFUSED ABOUT THIS FOREVER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
one of my mates has a 2020 canyon spectral and has been running tubes the whole time he's had it
"aw man, we only have 26" I wanna go to this bike shop haha
Great info, especially on tubeless ready tires.
dhf - downhill freeride
dhr - downhill race
PSSTT?? great invention, Pinkbike!!
In fact 1 week ago I decided to change to tubeless front and rear but surprise surprice, my front tyre (VeeTire co Flow snap Tubeless ready ) apparently after 300 km of use (and aplenty life remaining for my tread ) the side wall had mor than 10 little holes that my sealant couldnt seal. So I wsa Forced to go back to tubes
I use tubes on dirtjumper
I'm going to get a Mike Levy tattoo on my chest that also has his tattoos on him in the actual tattoo, so, it will be a tattoo of a tattoo, I'm pretty excited!
I am contemplating going back to tubes. I have quite a few bikes and to keep adding sealant to tires every year is getting to expensive for the amount I ride them.
I also thought that F and R denominations were front and rear, but it seems that:
F doesn't mean front, but freeride.
R doesn't stand for rear, but race.
The Minion was used during WWI. Mainly thanks to Theodore Roosevelt who signed the Minion Act of 1901. During the Spanish American War, Roosevelt suffered 4 pinch flats shredding down San Juan Hill. Teddy vowed never to pinch flat again. Years later during WWI, Allied forces made several successful hucks to flat into the German trenches which eventually turned the tide of the war. The Germans lost because they were overly committed to Der Kaiser's project. True story!
You should stop smoking that
And after all that, I still just want tyres that shred like real tyres...
Still use tubes on the DJ/pump track bike 👍
Still running tubes with an old tube as a liner. Haven't had a flat in years. Also running 26 inch tires and 3x9.
i use tubes and i have 3 patches to each of them
I've got a McDonalds Monopoly sticker holding one of my tubes together lol. What ever works right!!
@@DeadsetYT we are just recycling hahah as Seth bike hacks says
@@dystopiaisutopia yeah, well I've had a tube that didn't even have a tube. It was all patches! Ha! ;)
Im still using tubes because my rims are pretty budget friendly and its effort. got some tubes with sealant in them which helps with punctures but still gotta run them kinda hard
Bring back Humbled series!
I'm using tubes because I have no idea if my stock rims are tubeless and I don't know how to find out!
2016 Kona Firemountain
I love this series
Lots of people still use tubes. Because reasons... Not good ones, but reasons still.
Running 12/15 psi F/R, tubeless. Plus 3.0" though. 6/8 psi in the winter💁♂️
My brother still uses tubes in his enduro its kinda funny he just doesnt wanna deal with sealant
So he said to comment if I use tubes, so I am commenting. I use tubes because my rims are from 2003. I will be going tubeless on my next bike though.
Iv got to run the shed now to see what I’m running lol 👍🏻💪🏻✊🏻but it’s bloody raining
I still use tubes, too lazy to switch over to tubeless. I promise I will switch over when I have to replace my tire....maybe
What would you recommend for slippery mud situations
It's been two years but that's me!
Lets start the debate, does the F in DHF stand for "front" or "freeride"?
Let's not. It's front. You can google old Maxxis marketing material showing that the DHR was a tyre meant for the rear. Plus the old DHR does not look anything like a race tyre... It would be more useful for FR, it should stop better on the steeps. So by that logic, F = race, R = freeride.
FREERIDE
Great video. More like this please
I use tubes on my enduro because i always lost air while cornering hard....
Tubes for the win!
I could go back to tubes if I had to. The real revolution was tire sealant (slime then stans etc...)
Before that, thorns thorns thorns
I still use tubes inside my tires, because my bike is a basic-national brand 2011 hardtail. I get punctures almost every 5 times I go for a ride. Yeah I'm broke😪
I'm ready for a Tire Pressure video. Rddddddy.
Where can I get that 420 TPI Tire
Colorado?
Though I suppose that joke is kinda old since literally the entire west coast from California to Alaska (BC and Yukon included) can enjoy 420 time legally now.
Hate when bike shops say dhf as downhill free ride it’s a front tire seen people do the with dhr downhill race
🙋🏻♂️ Still running tubes
(but thinking about switching)
I use tubes even on my enduro.. It's unbelievable, right?
Ah crap all the psstt came out my tires and they went flat almost instantly, that stuff is great, need to get some more.
LEVY! Can you bro science what tires have better grip halfway into their tread life? I've heard 3C is great for racing and for those who replace their tires weekly. But half way through the tread the medium compound is worn away and you're running on the hard base layer. Compared to the 2C where you've got that medium compound the whole way through & better grip than the 3C for the rest of its life. Any truth to this??
I still use tubes and I rarely have punctures. There have been years when I haven't had a single puncture XD
Im still using tubes in my old cross country 26" hardtail . The rims are not compatible without tubes so im sad. But I hate tubes.
I successfully got my my 19mm internal, not-tubeless-compatible 26er MT-15 Shimano rims working with Maxxis Ikon 2.2 tubeless tyres. Just pre-stretch the tyre using a tube - put some gorilla tape over the spoke holes, use lots of sealant and an air compressor. Has been working great for 2 years!
@@davidh7414 Im gonna try . Thanks for the tips.
@@jakubcaprnda5907 happy to help. Heaps of UA-cam vids on applying gorilla tape. Just make sure it is correct width for your old rim
I wouldn't pump up a tubeless mountain tire past 40 psi. When it blows off the rim it makes a BIG mess!
Hey Maxxis. How many Minions have you made?
63mm is the casing width, not the tire width - it is independent of tread.
Heavy DH tubes in DH tire with very low pressures. Why ? Well, ride an Ebike, have unbelievable traction with sub 20 psi and never have a flat in 5 years, no dented rims, no empty wallet, no matter where you ride, MIke.... Same experience with Tubeless?
great breakdown, thanks!
So everyone uses 29"? No 27,5 anymore? Isn't it harder to manual and jump?
I still can't decide, want to buy a FS but can't try it first because online sales.. Any thoughts? I'm 180cm (5.10).. Help xD
I use tubes on my Winteredurohardtai.
Great info, thanks !
I still use tubes in my dh rig🖐🏼
Also, love this type of video!